pruning garden trees no mistakes

In order for the orchard to please, it must be properly looked after. Proper shaping and reasonable pruning of a tree is an indispensable element of such care. But pruning is a kind of surgical operation that is painfully perceived by the plant, especially when it is illiterately performed. Unskillful intervention can lead to difficult-to-correct results, up to death.

Proper formation and reasonable, competent pruning of the fruit tree- indispensable elements of garden care. Many mistakes can be avoided by knowing the structure of the tree and the functional significance of its main organs and tissues, which act interconnectedly and do not replace each other.

Let's take a look at all this typical trees apple or pear trees, simply calling them a tree.

Basics of biology

An ordinary varietal tree consists of a root system and an aerial part. Each of them has its own "duties". The roots are both the breadwinners and the foundation of the tree. They fix it in the soil, and most importantly, they provide water with minerals dissolved in it. As the tree grows, the root system also expands both in breadth and depth, going far beyond the planting hole (Fig. 1-1).

Rice. 1

The place where the roots pass into the ground part is called the root neck (Fig. 1-2). In ordinary (not dwarf) trees, it cannot be buried during planting and subsequent care. Often the grafting site is taken as the root neck, but it can be at a height of 10-15 cm or more from it.

Varietal trees are obtained by grafting onto rootstocks, which are usually grown from seed. Seed offspring do not retain the characteristics of the variety, the trees grown from them are most often wild, with fruits unsuitable for use. Therefore, the rootstock is usually called a wild, and the grafted variety is a scion.

The grafting site is usually well visible in seedlings and young trees. It, as a rule, is distinguished by a noticeable curvature and scars or a slight influx at the junction of the rootstock with the scion. All shoots growing below the grafting site are not varietal, they are called wild shoots. Such shoots must be removed in a timely manner, as it develops to the detriment of the tree.

The ground part of the tree consists of a trunk (Fig. 1-4), usually growing vertically, from which lateral branches form a crown. The trunk is the central part of the tree from the root neck to the very top. He is a support for the crown, and his internal tissues serve as a "crossroad" for the movement of water and various nutrients.

The lower part of the trunk from the root collar to the first skeletal branch is called a trunk (Fig. 1-3). Its height can be different, usually not lower than 50 cm (for ease of care) and not higher than 1 m (for an acceptable tree height). The trunk above the stem and to the very top is called the central conductor, or leader. It ends with a one-year continuation shoot (Fig. 1-7).

The branches extending from the trunk form, as it were, the backbone of the crown, which is why they are called skeletal (Fig. 1-5). They host branches of the second, third and subsequent branches, which end in overgrown branches with annual growths (shoots) (Fig. 1-6). The boundaries of increments are visible on the outer annual rings in the form of narrow scars of the bark. From them you can determine the age of the branches. Each growth ends with an apical bud, and vegetative (growth) buds form in the axils of the leaves. In the spring, leaves and new shoots sprout from them. In early-growing varieties, flower buds are also formed on annual growths, which are distinguished by larger sizes.

In most varieties, the crop is formed on the fruit formations of overgrown branches. The shortest of them (1-5 cm) are kolchatka, which then grow into branched fruits. Their productive age is about 10 years. Longer fruit formations (5-15 cm) are called spears, and the longest ones (from 15 cm) are called fruit twigs. They end in flower buds that give both fruits and rosettes of leaves or new shoots. Most varieties have a mixed type of fruiting.

Varieties with annular type of fruiting are most preferred. As a rule, they are early-growing, fruitful, with a compact, non-thickening crown. But due to congestion with flowering and harvest, varieties with annular type of fruiting have attenuation of growth and a deficiency of leaves, which leads to crushing of fruits, their shattering, and a decrease in winter hardiness. In such cases, special pruning is necessary to stimulate the growth of shoots.

It is the shoots that are the main base of the leaves, and they are the same breadwinners of the tree, like the roots, only they provide different food products. From the soil along the wood of the trunk and branches, water with minerals dissolved in it enters the leaves. And they, in the process of photosynthesis, form organic substances (assimilates) necessary for the growth and development of the whole tree (including the roots), the creation of a crop and a safe overwintering. Assimilates come to all organs of the tree by a downward current through the vessels of the bark of the branches and trunk.

Between the bark and wood is a special "building" tissue - the cambium. It is invisible to the eye, but during the period of sap flow, in late spring and summer, it is a gentle slippery layer under the bark. From spring to autumn, the cambium actively works, laying bark cells outside, and wood inside, due to which the trunk and branches thicken. Thanks to the cambium, vaccinations grow together, wounds heal: on the wounded surface, its cells quickly divide and form an influx of callus, and from it - bark and other tissues with vessels.

Any annular damage to the bark along with the cambium on a branch or trunk leads to their death, as it interrupts nutrition. Therefore, any harnesses, ropes, etc., that cause constrictions, should not be allowed to cut into the bark.

The purpose and objectives of pruning

Pruning is the partial or complete removal of some branches in accordance with the tasks for which plantings are grown. For example, ornamental trees and shrubs are trimmed to create a variety of shapes and configurations. Mother-cutting plants are specially pruned very heavily in order to mass regrowth of young shoots necessary for reproduction in nursery farms. Such techniques are completely unsuitable for consumer gardens.

The main goal of pruning a fruit tree is to form a correct, strong crown at a young age and correct it during the fruiting period in order to obtain high-quality crops as quickly as possible and for a long period.

Specific pruning tasks may vary due to age-related changes in plants. At a young age (conditionally up to 8-10 years), pruning should be minimal and only auxiliary to form the correct crown. During this period it is important:

Ensure optimal development of the central conductor for the timely growth of a strong crown on it.

Arrange the branches evenly on the trunk so that each of them is in favorable conditions solar lighting and aeration (i.e. free access of air).

During full fruiting, in addition to those mentioned, new tasks appear:

Regulate optimal growth and fruiting.

Protect the crown from thickening and growth in height.

Extend the productive period of the tree.

During the aging period of a tree (if it is winter-hardy and not damaged in any way), the crown can be updated with rejuvenating pruning.

Pruning timing

Tree pruning is one of the earliest jobs in the garden. Best time for this - the beginning of spring, when there is no danger of frost and the buds have not yet begun to bloom. In winter, pruning is carried out only in those southern regions where the risk of frost damage is low. In the central part of Russia, winter pruning is dangerous due to the unpredictability of the onset of frost, during which not only the exposed tissues of the cuts are damaged, but also the bark and cambium near them. Sometimes, even in the so-called mild winters, after prolonged thaws in late February - early March, there are frosts down to -20-25 °. In such cases, it is especially dangerous to inflict large wounds when cutting skeletal branches in the lower part of the trunk, close to the snow surface, where the temperature is always lower, and it can be critical for the cut surface.

Specific calendar dates for the optimal spring pruning period may vary depending on weather conditions. In the Moscow region, they usually come from mid-March, when the snow has not completely melted and the feet do not get stuck in the slushy ground. But the main criterion for timely pruning is to have time to carry it out before the start of sap flow. What it is? When the average daily air temperature is above 5 °, the vegetation of plants begins. It is accompanied by active spring sap flow, i.e. the roots supply water with minerals dissolved in it up the vessels of the wood to all organs and tissues of the ground part. It is easy to verify the intensity of sap flow by well known fact extraction of birch sap.

With timely pruning before the start of sap flow, the surface of the cuts is dry, and garden pitch easily sticks to it, which is necessary to protect exposed tissues from drying out, freezing and ingress of pathogens for the entire period until the wound heals. In addition, the vessels cut at this time are immediately filled with air, which, like a cork, clogs them and prevents the juice from flowing out during subsequent sap flow. And with belated pruning during sap flow, all vessels are already filled with moisture. The var by itself does not adhere well to a wet surface, and even is rejected, as it were, by the juice gushing from the wound. Such "weeping" trees are depleted in vain. In addition, the juice flowing down the bark becomes a breeding ground for harmful pathogens, and in particular, sooty fungi. Their black dense coating clogs the stomata (small holes) of the bark, while disrupting the necessary air exchange and reducing winter hardiness. Therefore, for trimming and set the optimal time.

But if the winter was frosty, pruning should be delayed until obvious damage appears. Only obviously dead parts of the crown should be removed immediately.

Regardless of the season, only the so-called sanitary pruning is carried out - forced, unplanned removal of broken, sick, drying, etc. branches or parts thereof. Sanitary pruning is performed as soon as dangerous defects are identified to prevent further deterioration of the tree. For example, from strong winds, adhering wet snow, branches with a tear of the bark on the trunk often break. If such a "hanging on a string" branch is not cut off in a timely manner, damage to the bark will increase.

If it becomes necessary to cut winter time, then it must be done during the thaw period. In frosty weather, the wood is brittle, it is chipped from the cutting tool, damaging the underlying tissues. When cutting a thick branch, you must first leave a stump 15-20 cm long so that it takes the frosty blow on itself, and not the exposed surface of a large wound. And in the spring this stump must be removed according to all the rules of pruning - on the ring.

What you need to trim

The main pruning tools are a pruner (for thin branches) and a garden (but not carpentry) saw for thick branches. All tools must be in good condition and sharply sharpened. Not only the ease of doing the work depends on this, but also the correctness of the cuts with better healing of wounds. Therefore, you will also need a whetstone (whetstone), a whetstone and a file for sharpening the saw. Garden secateurs should have blades tapered at the ends, widely diverging in the working position. Secateurs with wide ends of the blades are difficult to bring closer to the cut lines, difficult-to-overgrow stumps remain. The secateurs must be adjusted in such a way that no gap is formed between the cutting blade and the counter-cutting plate during operation, leading to jamming and crumpled wounds on the branches. good secateurs must cut correctly with the entire surface of the blade, especially with the tip.

For more accurate and accurate cuts of thick branches, it is better to use a special garden file, and not a pruning shear (with long handles), which often leaves stumps. Good garden saw there must be a high-quality cutting blade with a tapered end and with a strong attachment to the handle (at its base there should be no gaps when checking by moving left and right). The correct saw has widely spaced (a little more than twice the thickness of the blade) and sharply sharpened teeth, which make it easy to make forward and reverse motion.

In some cases, a sharply sharpened garden knife (sickle-curved) is also needed to smooth out uneven cuts, cut the bark during certain operations, etc.

All cuts or other wounds with a diameter of more than 1.5-2 cm require surface protection of exposed tissues from drying out and ingress of harmful pathogens. For this, various garden putties are used, the best option which is a garden var. A good pitch is always soft (even in the cold), easy to apply without preheating, and sticks to the cuts normally. Var should carefully cover all surfaces of wounds, but do not apply too much, a thin layer of its fatty base is enough. Excess var is harmful, because, melted in the sun, it will flow down the bark, clogging its microscopic holes (stomata) and making it difficult for the necessary air exchange. Do not forget that all work in the garden must be carried out meaningfully, without violating the natural physiology of plants.

Slicing technique

Before proceeding with pruning, it is necessary to master the technique of performing its techniques. Do not rush to approach the fruit tree with cutting tools, first practice at least on wild trees.

When pruning, two main techniques are used: removing the entire branch and shortening it. In both cases, you need to learn how to make cuts correctly. Annual growths and thin, up to 2-3 cm thick, branches are usually pruned or removed with secateurs. The pruner should be held in such a way that four fingers are on the handle of the cutting (wide) blade. In this case, the handle of the shear plate should rest on the palm under the thumb (Fig. 2). If this tool is not positioned correctly in the hand, when the fingers grab the handle of the anti-cutting (narrow plate), firstly, additional efforts are required, and secondly, this leads to crumpled wounds on the tree and rejection of the bark.

Rice. 2. Cutting branches with secateurs: A- correct; B- correct cut with secateurs; IN- incorrect position of the secateurs (cannot be installed from top to bottom)

To remove a branch, bring the secateurs from below, placing its lower blade on the surface of the annular influx. Lightly pulling the branch with your hand makes it easier to cut, and it turns out even.

Remember an important rule - any cut should not be done anywhere, but only over a well-developed bud or branch directed in the direction necessary for the crown. In such cases, they usually say: pruning on a kidney or transfer to a branch.

To expand a crown that is too compressed, cut to the outer bud (or branch), that is, make a cut above the bud that is located on the outside of the branch. A drooping crown can, on the contrary, be raised by cutting it to an inner bud or branch (Fig. 3).

Rice. Fig. 3. Results of pruning a tree for the outer (A) and inner (B) buds. The black color shows the previous direction of growth.

It is important to correctly make the cut itself over the kidney (Fig. 4). It should be slightly inclined to drain the water that falls on it, but with a minimum surface. The upper part of the cut should be at the level of the apex of the kidney or 2-3 mm higher. You can not leave a higher stump above the kidney, as it will interfere with overgrowth. It is also impossible to make an oblique cut that is too low - its large surface will cause the kidney located opposite such a cut to dry out. The same principle is preserved when shortening branches, when by transferring to various branches, growth can be directed to the right place in the crown. If it becomes necessary to remove the entire branch, then cut it “into a ring”. What does it mean? Look at the base of a branch at an angle greater than 30° and you will see an annular fold (Fig. 5).

Rice. 4. Pruning on the kidney: A- correct; B- incorrect (too high, the stump will interfere with the healing of the wound); IN- incorrect (cut too low and large)

In young trees with elastic bark, the influx is slightly wrinkled, folded. It is there, under the bark of the influx, that special tissues are concentrated, due to which the wound heals. Therefore, the cut must be made, focusing on the top of the influx (Fig. 5 A), without leaving a hemp and at the same time without touching the trunk, that is, without going deep beyond the influx. Since in this case the cut surface increases (and it should always be reasonably minimal), but the main thing is that such a valuable “ring” is cut off and a wound that is difficult to heal is formed (Fig. 5 B).

Rice. 5. Cut for the ring: A - correct (along the top of the annular influx); B - incorrect (stump left); B - incorrect (too large, the annular influx is cut out)

A common mistake is leaving a stump when removing a branch (Fig. 5 B). Too long a stump, left, as a rule, “out of pity”, overgrown with new shoots in the first year. As a result, instead of one branch cut for thinning or lowering the crown, many new ones are formed.

A short stump, as a rule, does not give new shoots, most often it dries up. But when drying, the bark gradually, as it were, “slides down”, exposing the wood. If the error is not eliminated in time by cutting off the stump as expected, the “slipping” of the bark and drying out of the wood can destroy the trunk with tissue necrosis, a hollow, the introduction of diseases and pests, so even if it becomes necessary to temporarily leave a stump (thorn) to tie an escape to it, do not forget to delete it later.

If you need to cut a branch growing at an acute angle, around which the influx is invisible, to determine right line cut, use a simple technique (Fig. 6) - with chalk (or mentally) draw a line along the trunk or branch from which the cut branch (AB) departs, and the second - perpendicular to the cut branch (AG). Divide the angle between them in half and guide the cut along this line (AB).

When cutting branches, first file them from the bottom, otherwise the bark will be scuffed, after which the wound is difficult to heal (Fig. 7A). It is better to remove large, heavy branches in parts: first, as deeply as possible (until the file jams), file the branch from below at a distance of 30-40 cm from its base. Then, retreating another 10-15 cm from the base, saw the branch from above. Under its own weight, it will break off, but the peeling of the bark will not occur due to the lower notch. After that, the remaining stump is not difficult to remove according to all the rules on the ring (Fig. 7 B).

Rice. 6. Determination of the correct direction of the cut of a branch extending at an acute angle

All cuts and saw cuts should be even and flat, do not make any roundings on them. And do not forget to immediately cover them with garden pitch.

Near large wounds, the growth of new top shoots usually begins. If they are not needed to replace branches or otherwise correct the crown, they must be broken out in a timely manner, preventing them from growing, otherwise they will have to be cut again later.

Rice. 7. Sawing large branches: A- wrong; B- Right; 1- the first filed from below; 2- the second filed from above; 3- hemp tenderloin

When pruning, it is impossible to inflict many wounds on the trunk in one year, especially close ones. This violates the integrity of the cortex, through the vessels of which there is a downward outflow of photosynthesis products to the roots. As a result, their starvation begins and, as a reaction to this, the appearance of wild growth, which will weaken the tree.

"Self-destruction" of unnecessary branches

It happens that shoots begin to grow in places that are hard to reach for cutting, for example, between the trunk and the skeletal branch. They must be broken out in a timely manner, while they have not yet had time to lignify. But usually they are not noticed at first, but pay attention when they already become strong branches and threaten dangerous sharp corners. Neither a file nor a pruner can get close to the place of the required cut: either the wound will be too large, or a drying stump will remain, and this will cause damage to the bark under it. What to do?

In such cases, I use my own technique of “self-destruction” of an unnecessary branch according to the principle of constriction. To do this, it must be tightly pulled with a wire in the place where the cut should be. Such a specially arranged ring will gradually cut into a thickening branch, and then it will easily break off in the right place. The wire must be flexible for tight wrapping around the circle and not thin (at least 3-4 mm), otherwise the edges of the cut bark will simply close and growth will continue. To prevent the wire from slipping, it can be fixed with an incision on the bark in any convenient place.

No sharp corners

For a fruit tree, the strength of the crown, which can withstand the weight, is especially important. big harvests in summer and sticky snow in winter, strong gusts of squally winds, etc. Strength depends on winter hardiness: damaged wood of trunks and branches gradually becomes rotten and therefore easily vulnerable. But why do branches often break off even from the most winter-hardy varieties without the slightest sign of freezing, as evidenced by light dense fabrics on break? Typically, such breaks occur in trees with sharp angles of branching from the trunk.

Many do not pay attention to the plant from a young age, letting its development take its course. It leads to various defects crowns, the most dangerous of which is a bifurcation of the trunk or skeletal branches closely pressed against it. In such cases, sharp corners are formed between them, dangerous for the structure of the tree. Their harmfulness manifests itself gradually and consists in the following.

Branches extending from the trunk at an acute angle have an unstable accretion at the junction and break off over time. Figures 8 and 9 clearly show the reasons for the breakage of a branch due to an acute angle of departure. In the first case, the branch departs from the trunk at an angle close to a straight line (Fig. 8). The numbers indicate the sequential formation of wood in each year of growth. The growth of annual layers occurs due to the activity of the cambium (indicated by the letter C), located between the bark and wood. Let me remind you that the cambium is a special, very thin, but extremely important plant tissue. By dividing its cells, new layers of wood and bark are deposited, so the branches thicken.

Rice. 8. Fig. 9.

With a large angle of branching from the trunk, the wood tissues grow together without hindrance, and the connection at the points of their connection is strong. Such branches can bend to the very ground, but do not break off the trunk.

In another case (Fig. 9), annual layers of wood are visible on each branch, but they cannot grow together with each other. This is prevented by the lower sections of the bark (Ko), which gradually, with the thickening of the branches, are sandwiched between them. As it grows, the thickness of the bark clamped inside increases and becomes, as it were, a spacer between the branches. In addition, moisture accumulates in the fork and harmful microorganisms settle. As a result, the already vulnerable spot inside rots (HA), which further reduces the strength of the fastening of the branches. Therefore, do not allow the formation of sharp corners in the crown, form a tree from a young age, correct any violations in a timely manner.

Particularly dangerous can be a bifurcation of the trunk at the top, which must be corrected immediately after the appearance by removing one of the parts (Fig. 10). If time is lost, then as the tree matures, a tear will begin between the oppositely located trunks. At first, it is noticeable by the crack that has formed, which can subsequently lead to the splitting of the trunk to the very ground. Fastening the emerging tear with metal staples or various harnesses, as is usually recommended in such cases, will save for a while.

Rice. 10.

To prevent this, it is necessary to choose a better developed part of the trunk, and first greatly shorten the other. After two years, the dominant part, left without pruning, will become much thicker than the previously shortened one, and then the former competitor can be cut down to the base on the ring. In this case, the wound will heal faster, because. it will be less than the diameter of the trunk.

branch bending

An unformed five-year-old tree that formed a bifurcation of the trunk: 1- a branch cut to the base; 2- branch left to form the correct crown

To avoid sharp corners, bending branches in young plants will help, while they are thin and flexible. To do this, use the tying of branches to the trunk or to stakes driven into the ground, pulling with spacers or weights (Fig. 11). Bending should be carried out before the lignification of the shoots, which begins in July. Then the bent branches retain the angle of departure from the trunk given by them. This technique also accelerates fruiting, limits the size of the tree, and provides good illumination inside the crown. As a result, the harvest is more plentiful and of better quality.

Rice. eleven.

In many countries with developed fruit growing, branch bending techniques are used in very young trees. In Poland, for example, such formation is carried out at a very early age, when lateral branches are just beginning to grow in an annual plant and are only 15-30 cm long. And they use ordinary clothespins for this (only wooden ones). The clothespin is fixed on the stem in such a way that by bifurcation it rests against the base of the shoot, deflecting it to a horizontal position, that is, the clothespin serves as a spacer between the trunk and the shoot. This work must be carried out in a timely manner, around the middle of summer (depending on weather conditions and the degree of development of plants). It is important to have time to act on young shoots before they are lignified, when they are still flexible and easy to bend, so as not to injure or break.

Clothespins are also used to attach small cement weights with a short loop to already lignified shoots (so as not to injure the plants when swinging the weight). Of course, the size of the weight must be commensurate with the shoot so that it does not break off.

You can simplify all this by putting, for example, small pebbles in rag knots and securing them in such a way that side shoots assumed a horizontal position.

However, the effect will be achieved only if the branches are given a strictly horizontal direction, and not bent at random. If, for example, they take an arcuate position, then in the very high place arcs, strong vertically growing shoots will appear - tops, which will only thicken the crown. Therefore, branches should not be nailed or tied to the trunk by the ends - in this case, arcs unnecessary to the tree are formed. It is necessary to pull the branch by tying the twine in its middle or closer to the base.

Branches with a thickness of 2-3 cm in diameter are already difficult to bend, they break off with scuffs of the bark on the trunks. It is possible to increase their angle of departure from the trunk only with preliminary sawing (Fig. 12). The cuts are made from the bottom near the very base of the branch by about 1/4 of its diameter. With a thin, sharp file from the bottom of the branch near its base, make 6-8 cuts at a distance of about 2 cm from one another. After the branch is bent, it must be secured with two stretch marks to the pegs. Wounds from filing when tilted are clamped and quickly overgrown.

Rice. 12.

To understand the essence of this technique and feel its benefits, practice first on some other tree with branch flexibility similar to an apple tree.

All these rules and techniques will help the correct formation and pruning of the tree.

We form new plants

There are various systems for shaping trees, but for amateur gardening, the main type is a free-growing tree, rounded, with some size limitation later on. The crown must have the correct ratio of skeletal branches and the central conductor (upper part of the trunk). It should dominate the branches in height and thickness. After reaching the desired height of the tree, the conductor is shortened.

In an adult tree, skeletal branches should be evenly distributed along the trunk from all sides at a distance of no closer than 30-40 cm one above the other for their normal illumination and general development. Branches should not overlap, intertwine, etc.

Formation must begin with new plants - this is how young trees are called during the first two to three years after planting. Already in the spring, they may have unequal development associated with different survival rates, freezing, drying, etc., therefore, the approach to each plant should be individual.

An ideal option for a one-year-old is when all the buds bloom, including the apical one (Fig. 13), and already at the end of June there are growths of 20-30 cm. In such a one-year-old, you just need to cut a spine - a stump left from the wild game when tied in it shoot (the cut is shown in the figure by a solid line).

Often in one-year-olds, unripened tops freeze slightly (Fig. 14). Cut off the frozen part in the spring on a strong bud, leaving about 10-12 cm as a spine for tying the shoot to it, which will appear from the upper living bud (dotted line). Remove the spike afterwards.

If the ground part has frozen to the level of snow, the plant can be restored in a similar way (Fig. 15).

But if such freezing is repeated annually, this is a sign of the non-winter resistance of the variety, its unsuitability for the area.

Rice. 13. Fig. 14. Fig. 15.

Some trees may bloom in the first season after planting. This is characteristic of early-growing varieties, in which flower buds are laid on annual growths. Due to the fact that the flowers of a young plant consume the supply of food that is required for the development of a tree, the buds must be cut off before they bloom. And next year, the flowers can already be left, if, of course, the tree grows and forms normally.

Now let's consider the most typical faults in the crown of biennial plants, schematically presented in the figures. The dashes indicate the places of the necessary cuts. You should pay attention to the different angles of inclination of the lines, which indicate the correct inclination of the cut over the kidneys.

On fig. 16 the central shoot ends with poorly formed buds, becomes very thin towards the top. It must be shortened by cutting over a strong, well-developed kidney. For the same reason, branches 1, 3, 4 and 5 are cut in the same way. At the same time, the 3rd, 4th and 5th branches are cut to the outer bud to expand the crown, and the drooping 1st to the inner bud to raise it. Branch 2 is not cut, as it ends in a well-developed apical bud.

Rice. 16. Fig. 17.

On fig. 17, the upper lateral shoot (5) is not inferior in strength to the central conductor (6), it has become its competitor, and it leaves at an acute angle, which will inevitably lead to a trunk break. Therefore, the competitor must be removed or severely cut off on the outer kidney. Shoots 3 and 4 are cut to a strong outer bud at approximately the same crown level, taking into account the subordination of branches, and shoots 1 and 2 are not cut, as they end in well-developed apical buds.

On fig. 18 the central conductor is too strong, grows to the detriment of the lower side branches. Therefore, we shorten it by almost half. The lower shoots are slightly pruned to a strong bud only if their apical buds are less developed than the lower ones.

On fig. 19, the central conductor was shorter than the lower side shoots. There are two ways to correct the crown. If the central conductor is strong enough (normal thickness, well developed buds), but the top has been broken, it can be left, shortening the lower shoots accordingly to coordinate the branches in the crown. If the shoot located below - the competitor (3) is more developed, then it is transferred to a vertical position (shown by a dotted line), attached with garters to the central conductor (5), which is subsequently cut out. So that the shoot (4) does not turn out to be a competitor, it can be removed, but, given the bareness of the crown, it is left, greatly shortened to the outer kidney. The rest of the shoots are shortened if necessary.

Rice. 18. Fig. 19.

On fig. 20 shows the case where the center conductor is missing. Here, a strong lower shoot (6) must be transferred to a vertical position. But since there is nothing to tie it to, a rail is attached to the upper part of the trunk, to the end of which a shoot is tied with a “eight”.

Pruning of the remaining shoots is carried out according to the same rules as in the previous examples. All branches left in the crown, extending from the trunk at an acute angle, must be bent in a timely manner to a horizontal position, while achieving an increase in the angle of departure.

Rice. 20.

Rice. 21. Varietal characteristics of biennial branches of an apple tree: A- bud awakening and branching are good (Melba); B- the awakening of the kidneys is good, the shoot productivity is weak (Grushovka Moskovskaya); IN- bud awakening is poor, branching is weak (Cinnamon striped)

During subsequent formation and pruning, one should take into account the awakening of the buds and the shoot-forming ability, which depend on the varietal characteristics and the age period of the trees (Fig. 21). In varieties of apple trees with poor awakening of the buds and weak branching (Cinnamon striped, Mayak, Medunitsa, etc.), without pruning, the branches are ankle-shaped (bare), the crown is fragile, consisting of forks, and fruiting quickly moves to the periphery. In varieties of this type, to enhance branching and the formation of fruit twigs, it is necessary to apply transfer to lateral branches on two-year-old wood (Fig. 22).

Rice. 22.

Trees of varieties with good awakening of buds, but poor shoot-productive ability (Grushovka Moskva, Borovinka, Bessemyanka Michurina, etc.) usually form their crown well and do not need strong thinning. They only need to remove “competitors” if necessary, subordinate the main branches to the central conductor and slightly shorten strong annual growths.

Trees with good bud awakening and medium branching (Antonovka vulgaris, Papirovka, Welsey, etc.) require moderate pruning during the formation period. Their skeletal branches are subordinated to the central conductor, pruning is carried out on the side branch.

Varieties with good bud awakening and good branching (Streifling, Melba, Zvezdochka, Severny Sinap, etc.) are prone to thickening. They should not shorten strong branches at a young age, as this will increase thickening, but it is necessary to constantly thin out the crown in the future.

fruit garlands- good or bad

The abundant flowering of trees, and then the garlands of fruits on them, usually pleases everyone. Indeed, this is evidence of their good overwintering, as well as a high level of adaptation to the bad weather of past years. This means that the varieties are correctly selected, they are both winter-hardy and productive.

And now we need to look from a different perspective: if all the branches are covered with flowers to the very tips, then there are no young growths with breadwinner leaves at all. The crop in this case is forced to develop only at the expense of those few leaves that are next to the fruits. But this is too little, especially for varieties that bear fruit in “garlands” (cover photo). Special studies have established that for the normal growth and development of one fruit of an apple or pear tree, at least 30 leaves are required. They are also necessary for the general development of the tree: feeding the roots, laying the future crop, preparing all organs and tissues for overwintering, etc. Therefore, the lack of leaves creates problems for both the tree (decrease in potential winter hardiness and productivity, general depression, weakening resistance to pests and diseases) and the gardener (fruits that are too small, they fall prematurely, poor storage, etc.).

What is the conclusion from all this? It is impossible to run a tree to such a state when it does not have increments. This is usually observed in trees of venerable age, which require crown rejuvenation. But the attenuation of growth can also occur in not yet old trees with a predominance of the annular type of fruiting. This is most characteristic of many pear varieties (Lada, Chizhovskaya, Petrovskaya, Yuryevskaya, etc.). Yearly, from an early age, crops deplete them, and in addition to proper, balanced nutrition, they require periodic corrective pruning to stimulate shoot growth.

Optimum for a fruit-bearing tree, shoots are considered to be at least 50-60 cm long in the upper part of the crown (here they are always stronger), 30-40 cm in the middle part and 20 cm in the lower part. Reducing these sizes is a signal for timely pruning, which will help restore the necessary balance between the generative (fruit-forming) and vegetative (growth) parts of the tree.

Rice. 23.

In a neglected tree, such pruning is carried out according to the principle of lowering, thinning and general rejuvenation of the crown. It is schematically shown in Fig. 23 before and after cropping. Please note that when the crown is lowered, oppositely located branches should not be left on top - a break will occur from the severity of the crop. In the picture shown, the cropping is done correctly.

Without tops

If you form it correctly and cut it off in a timely manner, then you won’t have to remove too much, and this will only benefit the tree. No wonder one authoritative scientist wrote: "Large heaps of cut branches under fruit trees ... serve as an accusation against the owner of the garden and indicate that in previous years he did not fulfill his duties." And indeed, after all, pruning for a tree is the destruction of the work already done by it, the waste of accumulated nutrients. But the main thing is that strong pruning stimulates the growth of many new shoots, which are called tops.

Spinning tops are powerful "fat" (that's why they were called "wen"), shoots growing intensively upwards. They appear on different reasons: after mechanical damage to the trunk or crown of a tree, with incorrect (arcuate) bending of branches, unbalanced nutrition (with excess manure, nitrogen fertilizers), in aging trees, etc. But most often, the formation of tops is a natural reaction to a strong pruning of the roots, seeking to restore their relationship with the previous volume of the crown.

Surely, many have encountered such a phenomenon when, after a strong reducing and rejuvenating pruning of an old tree, in the first season, a whole forest of spinning tops grows up to 1.5-2 m high and is much larger in thickness than ordinary increments. And the next year they had already branched out and increased the unnecessary 2nd and 3rd "floors" of the tree instead of the necessary reduction in the crown. Not only is the tree now taller than before, but these young floors are also developing to the detriment of fruiting and crown development, shading it, taking away valuable nutrients (hence the name - spinning tops) and weakening in general.

Therefore, a thorough pruning to reduce or rejuvenate the crown is best done not immediately, but gradually over 2-3 years, then there will be less gyration. In the first year, it is necessary to open the center of the crown, shortening the central conductor from above by transferring to a strong side branch (Fig. 24). In the second year, cut large thickening branches from the middle of the crown. After that, shorten the remaining branches to the first or second tier of branching by transferring them to branches oriented to the periphery of the crown, and remove the lowest drooping branches. Naturally, all diseased, dried, rubbing against each other branches should also be cut out.

Rice. 24. Scheme of pruning an adult tree with a narrowed crown. Branches to be removed are shown in black: A- crown periphery; B- central conductor; IN- large thickening branches; G- lower drooping branches

Unnecessary tops should be broken out immediately after the start of their growth, preventing subsequent lignification. In the middle - late summer, it is already too late to remove them in this way, and cutting them into a ring with pruners is risky, as there will be too many wounds that will not have time to heal before autumn. But you can cut it off, leaving 5-10 cm stumps, and in the spring, do not forget to remove them in accordance with all the rules. Please note that young shoots may appear on such stumps even at the beginning of autumn, they must be broken out without fear.

No wild growth

One of the indispensable elements of spring pruning is the removal of wild growth, i.e. shoots growing below the grafting site. They become a competitor for water, food and therefore deplete the tree.

Usually the branches of the savage differ markedly from the cultivar in leaves, buds, bark color and other features. But often this is not noticed, and as a result, both a cultivar and a savage grow on the same tree. And only when its branches begin to bear fruit, bewilderment arises: why have the apples become completely different, has the variety been reborn?

To prevent this from happening, the shoots of wild shoots must be broken out at the very base, as soon as they begin to grow. Unfortunately, they are often paid attention to when they are already lignified and cutting with a pruner is required, and in an advanced case, with a saw. If this work is carried out at the same time as pruning in early spring, when the snow around the tree has not yet melted, stumps usually remain. Soon they are overgrown with many new young shoots, turning into whole bushes around the tree. To prevent this, as soon as the snow melts, the stumps must be cut to the ground. If necessary, you will have to dig up the ground to get to the place where the overgrowth grows. Cover the cuts with pitch and cover with soil again.

However, it is important not only to correctly remove wild shoots, but to identify, eliminate and prevent the causes of their appearance in the future. They can be different, most often the following.

The result of a strong pruning of many branches at once. Shoots appear in response to an imbalance between the roots, programmed for the previous volume of leaves in the crown, and a sharp decrease in the nutrition coming from them.

Strappings, labels, etc. not removed in a timely manner. cut into branches thickening in the process of growth. This interrupts the downward outflow of plastic substances, which occurs through the outer tissues from the leaves to the roots. The roots, deprived of the necessary nutrition, are forced to help themselves with the formation of overgrowth. Therefore, do not tie anything close to the trunk or branches.

The consequence of starvation of the roots due to the physiological incompatibility of the stock with the scion, when the exchange of nutrients between them is disturbed. This phenomenon is usually accompanied by a noticeable thickening above the grafting site, too early entry into fruiting and at the same time weak or absent growth, premature autumn coloring and leaf fall, and a decrease in winter hardiness. Such trees are gradually dying.

A signal of winter and other damage that was not noticed in time: frost cracks, sunburn and cracking of the bark, damage to it by cytosporosis, black cancer and other diseases. With severe damage, the ground part gradually dies, and healthy roots that require plastic substances give rise. In the last two situations, drying trees must be cut down to the ground, and strong growth can be used to graft a more winter-hardy variety.

N. Efimova , candidate of agricultural sciences

(Garden and garden, newspaper library No. 3, 2008)

Planting a seedling in the ground does not guarantee that the garden will grow lush and fruitful. All crops grown on the site require constant attention of the owner, regardless of the season.

Pruning fruit trees is one of the most important steps in gardening. It allows you to form the correct crown, regulate growth and fruiting. In addition, proper pruning of fruit trees can prolong their productivity. You will find all the necessary recommendations in our article.

Proper pruning of fruit trees

Pruning refers to the removal of dry and damaged branches and shoots. In addition, in the process, extra branches are cut out, which thicken the crown and reduce the quality of the crop (Figure 1).

Why carry out

Proper pruning also performs a sanitary function. Getting rid of excess branches helps prevent diseases, and a rejuvenating procedure can extend the life of the plant.

Figure 1. Types of pruning fruit crops

It is important to choose the right time to remove branches. It is best to do this in autumn or early spring, when the sap has not yet begun to flow in the trunk. At the same time, autumn thinning is possible only in regions with a mild climate, since severe frosts can damage the crop at the cut site.

Methods and techniques (shortening, thinning)

There are two main cropping methods: thinning and shortening (Figure 2). Each of them has its own characteristics.

Figure 2. Trimming techniques: shortening and thinning

Shortening involves the partial removal of branches and shoots. For example, if 1/5 or ¼ of the shoot is cut off, such shortening is called weak, when 1/3 or ½ is removed, it is medium, and from half to 2/3 is called strong.

In the process of shortening, rejuvenation is also carried out. For a light branch, the growth of the last 2-3 years is cut off, for a moderate one, a 4-6-year growth is removed, and for a strong one, almost the entire part of the skeletal branches is removed.

Note: By shortening, you can stimulate the growth of buds and shoots, as well as make the fruiting branches thicker. However, shortening too much can cause the plant to weaken and yields will decrease.

Thinning allows you to remove extra branches from the crown. Using this method, you can increase the size of the fruit and make the tree stronger and more productive. This reduces the number of buds that only consume the juices of the culture, but do not produce fruits. Juice flows faster from the roots to the leaves, the culture grows faster and bears fruit more intensively.

More useful information you will find about pruning in the video.

Trimming types

Depending on the purpose for which extra branches are cut, there are several types of pruning. For example, using this procedure, you can form a crown right size and shape, prolong the fruiting of the tree or prevent the development of the disease.

Each type has its own characteristics, although it is carried out using the same garden tools and techniques.

To form a crown

Such a procedure is called forming. It is especially relevant for small household plots. With the help of these manipulations, you can create a compact crown, while maintaining a high level of fruiting (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Formative cutting technique

Removing branches to form a crown allows you to give the plant a suitable silhouette. In addition, the formed skeletal part becomes more resistant to stress. Depending on the timing of the formative pruning, growth can be slowed down or increased. If branches are removed in February, growth will be more active, and cutting in early spring will slow down the development of the culture.

Regulating fruiting

Most often, it is carried out at the end of winter or early spring, but in regions with a mild climate, branches can be removed in the fall.

The main purpose of regulating pruning is to preserve the contours of the crown and to maintain optimum illumination of the branches. In addition, skeletal branches are strengthened in the process. They are not overloaded with young shoots, and the fruits become larger and ripen evenly.

Restorative

In the process, branches and shoots with mechanical or any other damage are removed. As a rule, they are removed in the spring, in the process of checking the garden after winter.

Some of the branches may freeze slightly, so they need to be shortened to healthy wood. Also cut off all shoots with signs of disease or damage. This will preserve the viability and fruiting of the culture.

Anti-aging

It is required for old trees, which, due to long growth, stop or significantly reduce fruiting. In the process, all old branches that form too small fruits or not enough ovaries are removed (Figure 4).

Figure 4. Features of anti-aging pruning

Anti-aging pruning stimulates the growth of new branches. As a rule, the annual growth (about 10-15 cm) is removed in the process, which stimulates the growth of the kidneys and increases the yield.

Terms of pruning fruit trees (when is it better to do)

Wondering when is the best time to prune orchard, we can say that optimal time autumn, winter and spring are considered, when the movement of juice in the trunk stops and the plant is at rest.

In regions with severe winters, it is recommended to remove branches in autumn or spring so that the cut point is not damaged by frost and the tree does not die. Consider the features of this procedure by season.

autumn

Experienced gardeners advise pruning garden crops in the fall only when absolutely necessary. For example, stone fruits do not tolerate such an event very well and may even die without having time to get stronger before frost.

However, these warnings do not apply to sanitary cleaning. If you find diseased or damaged branches, they must be removed immediately to save the rest of the plant.

The author of the video will talk about the main features of autumn pruning.

in winter

In severe frosts, the wood becomes very fragile, so it is not recommended to remove it. In fact, this is the only limitation, because in winter all plants are at rest and branches can be removed freely if the weather is relatively warm and calm.

Figure 5. Pruning an orchard in winter

The main advantage of the procedure is that the tree experiences less stress and the wound heals faster. In addition, on branches devoid of leaves, damage is much more visible (Figure 5).

spring

It is believed that pruning can be started at any time with the onset of spring. Actually this is not true. It is better to start the procedure when the sap flow has not yet begun, but the tree is already ready to wake up. In this case, the culture will not experience severe stress, and the wound will heal faster (Figure 6).

Figure 6 spring pruning orchard

Since the timing of the removal of damaged branches and growth in different crops differs, the gardener gets the opportunity to plan work in such a way as to provide all the trees with the necessary care.

It is advisable to start work on a quiet windless day at a temperature not lower than -5 degrees. All wounds are covered with garden pitch or yellow clay to speed up the formation of a colus.

Summer

In summer Special attention given to seedlings. On them, you need to remove the tops of the growing shoots to form a crown.

However, when diseases are detected, infected branches are removed without waiting for the cessation of sap flow. If this is not done, the disease can quickly spread throughout the garden. All remote branches should be burned immediately.

Pruning fruit trees in winter

The most important requirement for pruning fruit trees in winter is the absence of severe frost. If the air temperature is below -8 degrees, work cannot be carried out.

Note: Even though the plants are dormant in winter and are more stressed after the removal of the branches, in severe frost the wound will take too long to heal and can lead to the death of the entire crop.

However, in winter it is much easier to detect damage, since the crown is completely devoid of foliage and defects become more noticeable. It also allows you to make the cut more even and accurate. It is better to remove thin branches with secateurs, and file thick ones on both sides so that the cut is even and healthy wood is not injured.

Choice of cropping tools

To remove branches, you need to use special tools. The main garden tools include (Figure 7):

• Secateurs- it is better to choose a regular model, and not a ratchet tool, since it will have to be pressed several times to cut. Using a simple pruner is much easier and more convenient.
• Hacksaw with gaps between teeth. This design will prevent the accumulation of sawdust and keep inventory clean. For gardening, only a special hacksaw is chosen, which is not recommended for use for other work, so that the blade does not become dull.
• Air sector- a tool with a telescopic handle to which the blades are attached. To make a cut, it is enough to use a special lever. Such a tool will be very useful for cutting the upper branches.

Figure 7. Basic garden pruning tools

In addition to inventory, you need to buy garden pitch - a special ointment that is used to cover wounds on branches for faster healing.

Trimming and pinching trees and shrubs in the country

Regular pruning is one of the elements of caring for garden trees and shrubs. It is of great importance for plants. Depending on the method, degree and timing, age and condition of plants, weather conditions and variety, pruning can achieve various effects.

❧ According to the Guinness Book of Records, the most Big apple in the world has grown by soccer ball. The mass of a beautiful red fruit was 1.8 kg. The apple was grown in the Japanese city of Hirosaki by the farmer Chisato Iwasaki.

Why is it important to prune trees and shrubs?

There are several types of pruning

1. Formative pruning. It is carried out more often in young trees. It forms a strong skeleton with evenly distributed branches near the tree. Pruning is subjected to semi-skeletal and overgrowing branches. Tops are removed from old trees. After such pruning, the lighting inside the tree crown improves and the trees begin to bear fruit earlier.

2. Pruning to improve yield. This type of pruning causes renewal of overgrowing branches. After it, the trees give a consistently good harvest.

3. Anti-aging pruning. It is carried out at those Trees that stop growing.

4. Restorative pruning. It is carried out if the tree has suffered from frost or mechanical damage to the crown has occurred. Pruning restores the crown of trees.

5. Sanitary pruning. This is the removal of dry, broken, diseased branches and their parts.

In young plants, the branches are cut to form a crown, in adults - to maintain the shape of the crown, remove dry and diseased branches. Old trees and shrubs are pruned with a rejuvenating purpose. Many valuable varieties of fruit trees to obtain good harvest needs to be pruned every year.

Pruning reduces the height of plants, the number of harmful insects on them and the frequency of diseases. It makes the fruiting periods of trees and shrubs more uniform. The gross harvest of fruits during pruning may decrease, but the size and quality of the fruits increase. For example, the color of the fruit improves. Improves after pruning general state plants, the light-air regime is optimized. This makes trees and shrubs more resistant to pests and diseases without the use of chemicals.

When is the best time to prune trees and shrubs?

Pruning of trees and shrubs is carried out in different dates. In early spring, pruning is done in March - before the juices in the plants begin to move. Otherwise, the plants will lose a lot of nutrients during pruning and become weak. At this time, pome crops (pears, apple trees) are usually pruned. Red and black currants are pruned as soon as the height of the snow cover decreases.

From March to May, mainly in March - April, pruned most fruit trees. First pome fruits, then stone fruits.

Mature trees can be pruned at a later time - from May to June. They are pruned even during the flowering period and after it. Reducing the crown of mature trees reduces winter recovery and growth costs.

Some fruit trees, such as apricot, can be pruned in summer. As a result, they will bloom later next year. This will help protect the crop from spring frosts.

In the summer, from June to July, pinching (tweezing) and breaking out the shoots are carried out. At the same time, unnecessary shoots are removed. They will be completely removed during the next spring pruning.

In autumn, sanitary and anti-aging pruning is usually carried out. Spend them after the start of leaf fall. It is in autumn that old and neglected trees are pruned, as well as berry bushes - all types of currants, raspberries, gooseberries, etc.

In winter, fruit trees are pruned only in the southern regions, where there is no likelihood of frost damage to trees. In Central Russia, forced pruning of trees is sometimes carried out in winter. At the same time, protective sections of branches are left on the tree. With such pruning, branches on trees damaged by adverse effects (strong wind, rain with icing, etc.) are removed. This reduces the load on the trees and prevents breaks and splitting of branches in the future.

Pruning of trees and shrubs is carried out for the following purposes:

✓ get a small healthy tree with a compact crown, which would perfectly bear fruit every year;

✓ create a tree with a strong skeleton - branches evenly spaced in space;

✓ maintaining the size of the crown at a certain level;

✓ creation of good illumination in the crown;

✓ regulation of growth and fruiting, reduction of plant height and fruit shedding;

✓ increase in the quality of fruits - weight and size, color;

✓ easier harvesting;

✓ reduction in the frequency of diseases and the number of pests;

✓ creation of conditions for physiological balance between growth and fruiting in different periods of plant life; increasing the supply of nutrients to the remaining tissues of trees;

✓ rejuvenation and increase in the life of the tree.

If you do not adjust the height of the trees, they will be very tall, and the fruits will be crushed. Their winter hardiness will also decrease.

Pruning trees and shrubs is carried out in two ways:

1) thinning, or cutting (Fig. 1). With this method, pruning removes competitive, crossing branches, as well as very closely spaced and contiguous ones. Thinning is performed by the method "on the ring" or transfer to the side branch. When cutting “on the ring”, a cut is made at the base of the branch along the annular influx. At the same time, the stump is not left. It is not necessary to make a cut deeper than the annular influx, since this results in a large wound surface that takes longer to heal.

When removing large branches, the "three cuts" method is used. First, the branch is sawn from below by a quarter of its thickness. The cut is made at a distance of 20-30 cm from the trunk. Then cut down the branch from above. In this case, the third cut should be 5 cm further from the trunk than the bottom one. Then cut off the remaining stump. Such a phased sawing prevents peeling and splitting of the bark, leaves a minimal wound that heals well;

Figure 1. Thinning

2) shortening (Fig. 2). With this pruning method, the end of the branch is removed. After pruning, nutrition improves and moisture is provided to the remaining part of the branch and, accordingly, the buds on it. Therefore, shortening has a stimulating effect on the shoot-forming ability of the tree. It reduces the size of the crown and makes the tree more branched in the end. Shortening is carried out using the "on the kidney" method. The branch is cut obliquely over the kidney. In this case, the cut should not be very oblique, otherwise the kidney may dry out or give a weak shoot. They resort to shortening the branches if they were not pinched in a timely manner.

Figure 2. Shortening

When cutting, the following rules must be observed

1. When cutting, large, long and heavy branches must be supported by hand.

2. The cut should not be made flush with the surface of the trunk or main branch.

3. Large thorns should not be left on the branches.

4. Branches are cut at a slight angle relative to a line parallel to the main branch.

5. When cutting large and heavy branches, they are preliminarily lightened (smaller branches are removed). It is advisable to remove them in parts.

6. Heavy large branches after pruning should be lowered with ropes. This will prevent damage to the tree and neighboring plants. Previously, the upper end of the rope is fixed above the branch being cut, and the lower end is fixed on the branch being cut closer to the trunk.

7. The edges of sections with a diameter of more than 2 cm should be cleaned, treated with disinfectants and covered with an insulating layer.

8. There should be no grooves on the cuts, as moisture accumulates in them and the tree may rot.

9. Do not leave large stumps after pruning branches. They do not grow like full-fledged branches and gradually die off. As a result, branches form in their place.

10. You can not remove a large number of large branches at once, as this will delay the growth of the tree or lead to its death. They are removed 1-2 per year

11. When pruning slow-growing trees (apple, linden, elm, Norway maple), remove 20-50% of the growth over the past year. In trees that grow quickly (poplar, green ash, ash-leaved maple), 60-70% of the growth is removed.

Pinching plants, or tweezing, is the removal of the top of a growing shoot (Fig. 3). It leads to a halt in the growth of the branch for 2-3 weeks.

Figure 3. Pinching the shoot

Pinching is done by hand or with pruning shears. It is carried out mainly to form the crown of young trees. With the help of pinching, they make the branches subordinate, prevent the growth of shoots in inappropriate places. Pinching is carried out before the shoots become woody.

On young trees in spring, each shoot that continues the skeletal branch has competing shoots. They reduce the flow of juices to the main shoot and are the same with it in terms of development. Shoots-competitors pinch or break out when they reach 10-12 cm. After pinching, growth shoots become fruitful within 1-2 years - they begin to bear fruit. This is due to the fact that after manipulation on the shoots, the development of the lower buds is enhanced. When several strong shoots appear below the pinching point, the branch is cut off above the strongest of them. The shoot that remains is pinched over the 3-5th leaf. With the formation of one long shoot, it is cut off over the 3-5th leaf. With the formation of several short shoots, everything is left. Also remove unnecessary shoots and tops. In the future, they will unnecessarily obscure the crown, so you should not leave them. If at the end of summer the shoots have not completed their growth, then the resistance of the tree to frost decreases. Therefore, the tops of the shoots are pinched and the lignification of annual shoots occurs.

When pruning and shaping the crown of fruit trees, it is important to consider several important factors. There are five periods in the life of fruit crops: the first is the growth of vegetative parts, the second is active growth and fruiting; the third is a balanced growth and fruiting, the fourth is a decrease in growth and fruiting, the fifth is a period of aging. Before cutting the branches of fruit trees, you need to choose a method that matches this period.

In the first period of the life of a culture grafted on a seed rootstock, which, under conditions middle lane lasts an average of about six to seven years, forming pruning is performed.

Before forming pruning of fruit trees, the following tasks are set: creation of a strong skeleton of the tree crown for its normal growth and fruiting; creating conditions for good lighting of leaves not only along the periphery, but also inside the crown to increase their productivity; the creation of a limited number of unproductive main strongly growing upward skeletal branches necessary to accommodate fruit-bearing, more horizontal branches in space; Creation a large number more horizontal, fruit-bearing, semi-skeletal branches, on which the bulk is located fruit branches, which include ringlets, spears, fruit twigs; the creation of low-volume crowns with a tree height of no more than 3-3.5 m as a necessary condition for increasing the productivity of tree care and harvesting.

When forming the crown of fruit trees, it is necessary to take into account the biological characteristics and structure of the culture. The above-ground part of the tree is made up of the trunk and its branches, which form the crown. The lower part of the trunk, from the soil to the first branches growing strongly upwards, is called a trunk. The rest of the trunk, above the bole, is called the central conductor, which ends at the top, during the dormant period of the fruit tree, with the growth of the previous year, or in the growing season of the current year - with the continuation shoot.

Large upward growing branches extending from the central conductor are called skeletal branches of the first order. Branches growing upwards, extending from the skeletal branches of the first order, are called skeletal branches of the second order, etc.

In addition to branches that grow strongly upwards, there are more horizontal, less durable, weaker branches in the crown. They are called semi-skeletal branches. Semi-skeletal, horizontal branches carry a large number of small overgrowing branches, the bulk of which consists of fruit formations - annelids, up to 3-4 cm long, spears 10-15 cm, fruit twigs from 15 to 25 cm, on which fruiting is formed. Therefore, semi-skeletal branches are also called fruiting branches.

In dense plantings of intensive amateur gardens, the best crown that meets the requirements for the formation of fruit trees is a sparse-tiered, low-volume crown with six skeletal branches, with one branching order, with a large number of semi-skeletal, fruit-bearing branches, with a tree height of 3-3 .5 m

Pruning of fruit trees to form a crown begins from the first year after planting.

On the central conductor, at a height of 50 cm from the soil, 2-3 skeletal branches are selected, close to each other (possible from adjacent buds), from different sides of the trunk, directing their growth in the future in different directions at an angle of 45 ° to the row line . They form the first tier. For fastening strength, the angle of departure of the skeletal branches from the central conductor should be 45-60 °. When forming young fruit trees, one cannot choose as skeletal branches those that depart at sharp angles (less than 45 °), since such branches form little connective tissue at the point of departure from the trunk. The result is a fragile intergrowth, and under the weight of the crop they break. Obtuse angles of branching (more than 60°) lead to the fact that the branch quickly passes to fruiting and cannot fulfill the role of a skeletal one.

How to prune the branches of fruit trees with an acute angle of departure? In the first tier, they are cut into a ring, and extra skeletal branches with good angle offshoots and branches with angles of more than 60 ° are transferred to fruit-bearing and cut them into lateral branches.

And how to prune a fruit tree to create a large number of semi-skeletal, fruit-bearing branches? To do this, last year's growth of skeletal branches up to 60 cm long is shortened by pruning by '/3 of its length, and growths of 70 cm or more are cut in half.

Pruning of the skeletal branches of fruit trees is carried out at the same height, the central conductor is cut 25 cm above the skeletal branches. Such subordination ensures the strength of fastening of the skeletal branches with the central conductor, since in this case the diameter of the cross section of the skeletal branch at the place of its discharge is almost two times thinner than the diameter of the cross section of the central conductor.

The following year, after shortening pruning of fruit trees in spring or autumn, in most cases, several vegetative growths and separate overgrown branches without flower buds are formed on the skeletal branch.

How to properly carry out spring pruning of young fruit trees

During the formative spring pruning of fruit trees, one upward growth of the previous year is selected on each skeletal branch as its continuation and shortened by 1/3 or 1/2, depending on the length of the growth. If there is a competitor - the second growth growing strongly upwards, then it is removed to the ring. The growths of the previous year, growing inside the crown, are removed to the ring. More horizontal growths of the previous year, growing from the skeletal branch to the sides and to the periphery, are left as semi-skeletal.

In order to prune fruit trees correctly, as practice shows, it is necessary to leave horizontal branches for fruiting, located on the central conductor between the skeletal branches of the first tier and subsequent skeletal branches, if they do not interfere with the growth of the main skeletal branches. The fourth skeletal branch on the central conductor is laid 80 cm above the first tier. The distance between the fourth, fifth and sixth skeletal branches is recommended to be 40 cm. Thus, the first three lower skeletal branches located close to each other form a tier, and the next three upper skeletal branches are sparse. From where the crown got its name sparsely-tiered.

Pruning of the upper skeletal branches is carried out in the same way as pruning of the skeletal branches of the first tier. Every year, last year's growth of each skeletal branch up to 60 cm long is cut to '/z of its length, from above. Gains of 70 cm or more are cut in half.

Look at the photo - when pruning fruit trees, all skeletal branches are cut at the same height, and the conductor is always cut 25 cm above all skeletal branches:

After the formation of the crown of six skeletal branches has ended, and the upper skeletal branch with its upper end moved away from the central conductor one and a half meters to the side, the central conductor for better lighting internal parts crowns are removed leaving a protective link, which consists of a part of the central conductor, 15-20 cm above the skeletal branch, with a small lateral branch at the upper end.

In the process of pruning fruit trees, the growth of skeletal branches must be directed upwards so that after the formation is completed, the upper end of each skeletal branch is 2.5 m from the central axis of the crown, which ensures the strength of the skeletal branch during fruiting and frees from additional work for the installation of supports for skeletal branches. Skeletal and semi-skeletal branches should not be located one above the other, as this will make it difficult to illuminate the leaves sunlight downstream branches.

Formation of the crown of young fruit trees

On the 7-8th year after planting, apple trees are transferred to the fruit-bearing group. The second stage in the life of the tree begins - the period of growth and fruiting. During this period, there is an active growth and increase in yields. It lasts about 3-4 years until the age of 10-11 years of trees. How to prune young fruit trees that are starting to bear fruit?

The formation of the crown by this time has already been completed. The task of cropping comes down to the following main points: carry out sanitary pruning; remove dead and broken branches; keep the crown in a certain volume by cutting branches that grow strongly upwards into lateral branches.

In thickened crowns, in varieties with good shoot-forming ability (for apple trees - Anis and some others), thinning is carried out, that is, some of the extra branches that thicken the crown are removed on a ring or side branch directed to the part of the crown free from branches.

And how to prune fruit trees with a weak shoot-forming ability? For such crops, further shortening of the shoots is carried out in order to create additional semi-skeletal branches.

The video "Pruning fruit trees" shows how to form the crown of young crops entering the fruiting period:

How to prune branches of medium and old fruit trees (with video)

In the third (middle) period of the life of a fruit tree, which for apple trees in the middle zone lasts from about 11 to 16 - 18 years after planting, sanitary pruning is carried out, broken and dry branches are removed. Thinning is carried out as necessary. They hold a certain volume of the crown by transferring to the side branches. To prune a fruit tree during this period correctly, as an advice experienced gardeners, for the balance of growth and fruiting in the lower part of the crown, branches that hang down and interfere with tillage are removed.

The period of fruiting and attenuation of growth in apple trees in the middle lane lasts from about 17-19 to 25 years after planting. At this time, there is a decrease in the annual growth of shoots to 25 cm or less. This leads to an overload of the tree with a crop, which in turn causes a decrease in winter hardiness, an increase in the frequency of fruiting, and crushing of fruits. How to prune old fruit trees correctly? The main task This agricultural technique in this period is the rejuvenation of wood, shortening the branches for a strong increase in previous years (more than 30-40 cm), which is cut to 1/3 of its length from above. This restores shoot growth activity.

In addition to rejuvenating pruning, sanitary pruning, thinning and removal of branches hanging down that interfere with tillage are carried out in this period.

In the fifth period of the tree's life, the branches die off. Productivity drops sharply, so the garden is uprooted.

Watch a video on how to prune fruit trees in the third and fourth periods of life:

How to properly prune stone fruit trees

Separately, it is worth telling how to properly prune stone fruit trees, since agricultural practices for these crops have a number of differences from the formation of pome plants.

They are divided into bushy (Lyubskaya; Dessert Volga, etc.) and tree-like (early Amorel, etc.). The fruiting of bushy varieties of cherries prevails on long annual growths. Flower buds are located on the sides of the branches. The fruiting of tree-like varieties of cherries is concentrated mainly on bouquet twigs. Due to the good branching of cherries in the first age periods of the tree's life, shortening of growths is limited. Over the years, the crown thins out. When pruning cherries, large wounds should be avoided, which usually leads to gum disease. The height of the cherry stem is given at 40-50 cm. The trees of tree-like cherry varieties form, like an apple tree, according to a sparse-tiered system.

Bushy varieties are also formed according to a sparsely tiered system, but the distance between the tier and the next skeletal branch is given at 40 cm. The same distance is given between single skeletal branches.

And how to prune stone fruit trees during the period of attenuation of shoot growth (less than 25 cm)? At this time, the formation is carried out on the side branches located on the wood of 2-3 years of age.

How to prune frozen fruit trees

Pruning dead trees. In severe winters, fruit trees freeze to one degree or another. It can be strong, medium and weak.

With severe frost damage to the bark, cambium and wood in young apple trees, from 1 to 3 years after planting (dark brown color of the bark, cambium and wood), the aerial part of the tree is cut off to the snow cover line. The part of the trunk above the graft, which is under the snow, in this case gives good annual shoots. In the spring of the following year, in order to create a crown, one shoot is selected, cutting it at a height of 90 cm from the soil surface. The rest of the shoots are removed on the ring. On a trunk up to a height of 50 cm, all growth increments are removed. The next year, they begin to lay the first tier of three skeletal branches. Next comes the usual shaping pruning, as described above.

Having a good root system, the trees quickly restore the crown, which does not have any traces of freezing.

Young trees with a slight degree of freezing are pruned as usual. Trees from three to eight years old, not overloaded with crops, are rarely exposed to severe frost damage. Fruiting-age apple trees with light frost damage (light yellow wood, light green cambium) are pruned as usual. Fruit-bearing trees with severe frost damage are pruned a little later, when a zone with good growth of shoots is designated. Pruning is carried out on a living, well-growing part of the branch.

When to prune fruit trees: the right timing

Many novice gardeners are interested in when they prune fruit trees so that they bear fruit better? The best month for pruning in the middle lane is March - early April, before the start of sap flow, when the danger of severe frosts has passed. Permissible and autumn pruning but with some precautions. It is impossible to inflict large wounds when pruning fruit trees in the fall on the central conductor and on skeletal branches. In this case, if it becomes necessary to remove one or another large branch, then it is not removed to the ring and a protective link is left, consisting of a small lower part of the branch to be removed with a small side branch at the end. In the absence of a close branch, a spike 10-15 cm long is left, which can be cut out in the spring.

Pruning in the fall is basically sanitary pruning: removal of dead, broken, diseased branches, removal of rubbing branches, subject to the described precautions. Rejuvenating pruning of fruit trees during this period is carried out along the periphery of the crown, when large branches are not affected, it can also be carried out during autumn, warm winter days and in spring before sap flow.

Pruning of stone fruits is done in the spring, and wound dressing is done immediately after pruning.

To putty wounds, garden pitch, petrolatum, oil paint, diluted with natural drying oil. When applied oil paint, diluted on artificial drying oil, bark burns are observed. For the convenience of filling wounds with oil paint, a light stick about 1.5 m long is taken, at the end of which a brush is tied perpendicular to it. Oil paint is poured into a small bucket. With the help of such a device, you can paint over the wound at any height without climbing a tree. Petrolatum must be warmed up a little during work so that it is soft. Cover wounds with a diameter of 1 cm or more.

Watch the video "Pruning fruit trees in autumn and spring" to better understand how to properly perform these agricultural practices:

fruit tree pruning technology

The technology for pruning fruit trees provides for cutting into a ring, into a protective link, into a bud and into a side branch.

A ring cut is such a cut when it is drawn parallel to the thickening at the base of the branch. The branch is removed, but the thickening remains.

Thickening is a warehouse of nutrients necessary for the fastest overgrowth of brine. Incorrect cuts for the ring are such cuts when a thickening is removed along with the branch, which causes a large, long-term wound that does not heal, or when a stump without buds and side branches remains along with the thickening, which often forms a hollow when dried out.

When removing a branch on a ring, you must first file it from below, and then saw it from above. In this case, there will be no scuffing of the bark.

When removing a thick, large branch, the cut is made in two steps: first, the upper half is sawn off, and then the lower.

Pruning to a protective link is used when removing large branches in the fall, when removing the central conductor after the end of shaping, when transferring a thicker branch to a thinner side branch. A cut into a bud of annual growths of an apple tree is best done with a spine about 2 mm higher than the bud left on the growth. A lateral branch with a raised position is cut to the outer night, and branches with a large slope are cut to the inner kidney, which, when the branch is tilted, occupies the upper position.

Equipment for forming pruning of fruit trees

Before pruning fruit trees, you need to acquire the necessary equipment. A hand pruner is used to trim shoots and branches. It consists of two parts: one part of the handle with a convex cutting blade at the end and the second with a concave support blade. Both parts are connected by a hinge with a nut at the end. With the help of a nut, the gap between the cutting blade and the supporting blade is adjusted. For pruning branches located high in the crown, a delimber is used, which is also called an air pruner. The cutting part of the delimber is driven by a string.

Larger branches are cut with garden saws, which are various shapes. When cutting thorns, use a garden knife.

In order to cut the branches of fruit trees correctly, as it should be for good growth and fruiting, as well as to increase labor productivity and cut quality, garden tools must be well sharpened. For pointing and straightening a tool, it is necessary to have a bar, a whetstone, a file, a wiring for files.

Views: 0

About what fruit trees and shrubs need regular care every gardener knows. And this is known even to supporters of pristine natural beauty. The main function of plants in the garden is fruiting, and its fulfillment is possible only under one condition: if the gardener knows how to prune the trees, and, most importantly, when it needs to be done.

Performing this procedure will allow the crown of the plant to form correctly for its optimal further development. Only a properly cut branch will be able to receive a sufficient amount of light and air, which will positively affect its fruitfulness. In addition, with the help of pruning, the plant is sanitized, activating its defense mechanism against various diseases. This article will focus on pruning plants and the main features of this procedure.

The key to success when pruning trees and bushes is the right tools. So, you can't do without:

• garden hacksaw;
• secateurs;
• air secateurs;
• garden pitch.

Now consider the gardener's arsenal separately.

garden saw

A saber-shaped garden tool whose blade tapers at the end. characteristic feature hacksaws are special teeth with spaces between them. The purpose of these gaps is to ensure that sawdust does not accumulate on the blade when cutting.

It looks like a garden hacksaw

If possible, choose a special hacksaw for pruning trees, and not a regular construction saw. The difference between them is the angle of the canvas for convenience. In garden tools, the canvas has a specific shape, which greatly facilitates the workflow.

Secateurs

Secateurs is called manual garden tools designed to remove shoots. The shape and principle of operation of the pruner is similar to ordinary scissors, which is why it is also called "garden scissors".

Secateurs - an essential attribute of every gardener

When choosing a secateurs for garden work give preference to a conventional tool, without a ratchet. Firstly, it is much more expensive than a regular pruner, and secondly, a ratchet pruner is not very convenient for gardening.

Air pruner

A variety of secateurs designed for cutting branches at high altitudes. The principle of operation is the same as that of the delimber, however, the blade is driven by a cable, rope or wire (depending on the model).

Used for hard to reach branches

Cutting trees with air pruners requires certain skills, because throughout the whole time you need to watch the rope so that it does not get stuck among the branches. In addition, you have to maintain balance, which complicates the task a little.

Important: Only sharp and clean blades must be used for pruning trees. This is the only way you can avoid the appearance of torn surfaces, which is fraught with the appearance of diseases on the branches. Upon completion of work, all blades must be cleaned and lubricated with a small amount of oil.

garden var

Delivering everything necessary tools, do not forget also the garden var. This is a special substance for application to tree sections. The substance is dense in its structure, it does not dissolve in water. Covering the "wound" on the plant, you protect it from bacteria, small pests and insects. In addition, garden pitch is able to prevent juice from flowing out.

You can buy a "miracle ointment" in the store or make your own garden pitch.

Do-it-yourself var Zhukovsky

To prepare a garden var you will need:

• wax;
• rendered beef fat;
• rosin.

The quantity of all components of the recipe should be the same. If you did not manage to get beef fat, then you can replace it with lamb fat - this will not make the effect worse. So, having taken all the necessary ingredients, we proceed to the preparation of the var.

The use of garden pitch

Cooking

Step 1. Melt all the ingredients in different vessels.

Step 2 Pour everything into one container and mix well.

Step 3 After cooling, pour the resulting mixture into a bucket filled with cold water.

Step 4 IN cold water the mixture should curl into a single pile.

Step 5 Remove the mixture and, stirring constantly, wrap it with paper greased with vegetable oil.

You can not bother and buy garden var in the store

It is recommended to use such a pitch during the warm period, since the cold negatively affects its structure (garden pitch hardens at low temperatures). After treating the wound, cover it with a rag. This is necessary to protect against bees flying to the wax.

Cutting techniques - what are they

Depending on the purpose of the pruning work, a specific cutting technique is chosen. There are three types of cut:

• on the kidney;
• on the ring;
• to the side branch.

But let's get it right.

Cut on the kidney

The use of this pruning technique will allow you to make your own adjustments to the growth of the branch, changing it in the required direction. Take a one-year-old growth shoot and select a kidney on its plane that grows in the direction you need. Hold the pruner so that the blade is pointing towards the part you want to leave. The angle for the cut must be chosen small so that a stump does not form. A reference point for the correct cut will be a conditional perpendicular drawn from the kidney: it should not coincide with the cut line.

How is a kidney cut made?

Important: Do not cut at a high angle, as this will dry out the kidney (it will not receive enough nutrition). Too big a stump should also not be left - it will also dry out soon.

You can use this type of cut with the hemp left on the bushes.

cut on the ring

This type differs from the previous one in that the whole branch, the development of which is going wrong, is subject to deletion. For example, it grows inside the crown, which depletes the tree. In addition, such a branch practically does not bear fruit, so its removal is the most rational solution. If possible, trim with secateurs. If the thickness of the branch does not allow this, use a garden saw.

Under the first number, an example of a cut into a ring is shown.

You can find unusual accumulations of bark at the junctions - these are the so-called rings. Spend cuts on their outer side. Otherwise, there is a high probability of a wound, the healing of which is very slow.

Side branch cut

The peculiarity of this type of cut, in principle, as well as its main difference from other types, is the transfer of the main branches to the side ones. As a result, the side branches become the main ones. The pruning process takes place in such a way that the cut is parallel to the direction of growth of the side branch. Thus, will be created optimal conditions for fast wound healing. The purpose of this technique, first of all, is aimed at reducing the height of the crown, its limitation, and so on.

Performing a side branch transfer

Throughout the workflow, everything must be done according to certain rules: start cutting from the bottom and gradually rise up. Try to avoid peeling off the bark by cutting thick branches in several stages.

1. Step back 10-12 centimeters from the intended cut point and make a small gash. It is necessary to carry out washed down from below.
2. Cut the branch carefully.
3. Get rid of the resulting hemp.

Use a garden pitch to treat cuts that are larger than 3 centimeters in diameter. They must first be cleaned with a knife.

How to prune trees: types of pruning

There are different purposes forcing gardeners to resort to pruning. There are several types of pruning depending on the purpose.

Formative

It is used to increase the resistance to physical stress of the skeletal part. Thanks to the forming pruning, you can create a crown with the required dimensions.

Formative pruning with secateurs

Using this species at the end of the winter season - in February, you will make the growth of branches more intense and faster. But be careful, do not delay with this view. The fact is that carrying out similar operations in March or early April will stop the growth of the plant.

Regulatory

This species is used for the whole plant, and not in relation to its individual parts. Its task is to preserve the open center of the plant by removing intertwined, diseased and dry branches. It is not necessary to trim the conductors, the formation of which has just begun. The only exceptions are some low-growing varieties, the development of which is impossible without radical pruning.

How to do trimming

The skeletal part of the tree should also not be overloaded - the distance between the branches of the first order should not be less than 50 centimeters. This also applies to small branches. The most favorable periods for this type of pruning are the beginning of April and the end of August.

Anti-aging

An ideal option for increasing the fertile period of a tree and extending its life as a whole. The scheme is quite simple: with an increase in shoots by 12-15 centimeters per year, the branches are shortened. This allows you to awaken dormant and adnexal kidneys. The most favorable periods for this procedure are spring, the end of winter and the beginning of autumn.

Restriction on the height of the crown of an adult tree

After a rejuvenating pruning, your "favorites" will certainly soon be able to reciprocate, which will manifest itself in the form of beautiful and juicy fruits.

Restorative

There are many reasons gardeners use regenerative pruning. These include:

• shortening of branches has not been done for a long time;
• the plant suddenly grew up or in breadth;
• the middle of the crown is bare;
• yield reduction;
• the tree is a little cold.

The purpose of this pruning of trees is to return to the original dimensions.

All these cases lead to restorative pruning, the purpose of which is to improve the yield of the tree and resume normal shoot growth. The word "normal" means the growth of shoots of at least 25 centimeters per year. To achieve all this, you will need to sacrifice only a small number of branches and a few hours of personal time. As a reward, your plants will once again develop normally, bloom and bear fruit.

Sanitary

The whole point of sanitary pruning of trees is to remove rotten, diseased and dry branches, which improves their health. The main points of sanitary pruning:

• removal of "pins";
• cutting of top shoots;
• cutting rotten, twisted, broken, dry and diseased branches;
• creation of a crown favorable for tree growth with good ventilation and light transmission.

Getting rid of diseased branches improves the general condition of the garden dweller, increasing his immunity.

Pay attention to rotten and diseased branches

Pay attention to the location of the branches. Sometimes on young trees (in their crown) shoots appear, the growth of which occurs at an acute angle with respect to the trunk. With growth, they reach a fairly large thickness, sometimes reaching the thickness of a tree trunk.

A strong gusty wind can easily tear off these branches, which causes lacerations. First, they (wounds) spoil appearance, and secondly, they increase the risk of tree disease by a fungus. To prevent such troubles, it makes no sense to allow a large growth of branches of this kind.

Sanitary pruning can be carried out all year round, with the exception, perhaps, of frosty days.

Pollarding

Enough interesting view pruning trees, the essence of which is the regular cutting of young shoots. As a result, 10 centimeter stumps should remain. This procedure is carried out annually.

So unusual name for crop type

A pruned tree takes on a very neat appearance, both in a leafless state and in a green crown. Fun fact: This method was originally used by Dutch farmers to extract twigs for basket weaving or livestock feed.

utilitarian

The essence of this species is to trim individual branches and (or) change the shape of the crown. If you want to create a free corridor without branches hanging over it, then sanitary pruning is performed.

Which branches are cut off:

• that rest against structures;
• that hang over buildings;
• that block traffic lights, road signs or reduce visibility at intersections;
• that block the windows, thereby worsening the lighting in the room;
• that grow dangerously close to power lines;
• that are located too low to the ground, interfering with the normal movement of pedestrians.

illustrative example utilitarian pruning

The last point is called "lifting", that is, raising part of the crown by cutting branches at the lower level.

When to prune a tree?

Experts strongly recommend restoring lost branches of the crown and rejuvenation in early spring. This enhances the growth of branches, which has a positive effect on the fertility of the tree. When forming young trees and rejuvenating in late spring, the result will not be so convincing. This is due, first of all, to the accumulation of nutrients that are located in the roots. They are evenly distributed over all growth points that remain.

Late pruning is a cut of blossoming buds, which have already received spare nutrients. But those kidneys that remain also have a small amount of reserve substances. Their number is quite small, so the growth rate of new shoots will decrease. This pruning period, despite its disadvantages, is used by gardeners (albeit extremely rarely) to reduce the height of the tree. In this case, the presence of strong recovery shoots is not required at all.

The choice of pruning time depends on the gardener's choice of method and type, so it is carried out throughout the year. But the main pruning is carried out during the period when the buds have not yet had time to swell, namely, in early spring. A little later (autumn-winter), territorial pruning is carried out. Then trees are processed only in areas with a warm climate. Otherwise, damage to the bark under the influence of severe frosts is possible.

Throughout the summer period, only the tops (recovery shoots) formed at the site of large cuts are removed, and the shoots are pinched. No more measures are taken to trim trees in the summer.

Features of winter pruning

There are practically no restrictions on winter pruning, with the exception of one thing: it is not recommended to carry out work in severe frost, because in such weather the tree becomes very fragile. Therefore, you can easily damage branches, which heal very slowly at low temperatures. Watch the thermometer on the street - when the temperature drops below 8 degrees below zero, it is highly not recommended to carry out such work.

Tree pruning in winter

Main features:

• pruning, as in all periods, is necessary with a lopper or pruner;
• the first step is to get rid of damaged and dead branches;
• leave open the middle of the branches - this is necessary to access large branches;
• in winter, you can control the height of the tree by removing the excess;
• start pruning sometime in February;
• use only clean, sterilized garden tools to heal the wound quickly;
• upon completion of work, treat the cut surfaces with garden pitch.

Benefits of pruning in winter:

• obtaining accurate and high-quality cuts;
• the trees are in a dormant state, so they experience little to no stress.

In the absence of leaves, you will be able to assess the condition of the crown more accurately, while detecting all sorts of flaws. Use a saw for thick branches. Pre-cut the cut branches from the opposite side. This will help protect the tree from the formation of scuffs, and, as a result, from injury.

Features of spring pruning

It is recommended to start spring mass pruning of fruit trees before the start of sap flow. The ideal time period for this procedure is the period when there is no sap flow as such yet, but it should begin soon.

sap flow- this is an increased movement of dissolved mineral and organic substances in trees, which is accompanied by the accumulation of sap in the wood and roots. This process intensifies in summer and spring.

Why choose the right time? First of all, at this stage, the wounds on the body of the plant heal much faster. This will cut down on the hassle. The optimal time for pruning trees varies depending on the species. This makes it a little easier for gardeners when planning work.

With proper treatment of the wound, two weeks after the start of sap flow, calus will increase (a scar that isolates open wound). Under correct handling implies the use of a mixture prepared from yellow clay, garden pitch and oil paint. For work, pick a warm sunny day with a temperature of 5 degrees Celsius.

Spring pruning of fruit trees

As for shrubs, it is forbidden to remove extra branches in the spring. Especially those shrubs that are going to bloom in the spring, and their buds grow only on old branches. Otherwise, you can kill the plant without having time to enjoy its flowering.

Features of autumn pruning

Most trees do not tolerate this well enough, and some of them die after a while (plum, pear or cherry). Unless absolutely necessary, try to postpone this venture until next spring. In addition to those listed fruit trees also newly planted trees are doomed to death. When pruning a young growth, not only the place of the cut itself is infected, but also a rather large area around this cut, and in this situation, the rapid and complete recovery of the plant remains in question.

As soon as it gets warmer outside, you can start autumn pruning.

A small young seedling, distorted by wounds (albeit small ones), most likely will not survive the winter. And the remaining buds, located on the cut branches, will not open well in the spring. To prevent such excesses, several recommendations should be followed.

1. The scheme for pruning fruit trees is quite simple: thin out the crown, this will improve the ventilation of the plant and lighting.
2. Repeat this procedure for seedlings annually until the crown is fully formed. Remove all young shoots, leaving only a couple of main branches.
3. Thinning an old tree so often is not worth doing. It is enough to do it every two years. At the same time, cut off all improperly growing shoots.
4. The autumn time is good because during this period it is good to remove diseased branches that are covered with lichen. With the advent of winter, infected shoots impair the tree's immunity to frost, which can kill the plant during the winter period.
5. Remove all dead branches, as in strong gusty winds they can break off the tree and damage completely healthy branches. To do this, use a special garden hacksaw. Do not forget that the removal of dry branches is carried out up to the living tissues of the tree. All remote branches must be burned immediately to prevent the spread of infection.

Tree response to pruning

This process has a phenomenal effect on the plant, improving the growth of branches. However, this only applies to correctly performed pruning. For example, a cut of one leash does not affect the growth of a nearby branch, much less strengthens it.

The shortening of all branches of the crown completely can activate the growth processes in all branches, which causes the awakening of a large number of previously sleeping buds and the large-scale formation of tops. This method has two sides of the coin. The first is that the metabolic processes of adult trees are enhanced, improving their development. And the second - young seedlings are negatively affected after this method of pruning. That is why you need to be very careful when choosing a method.

New for gardeners - cordless secateurs

Mature trees that have not been pruned for a long time, after a strong shortening, improve their fruitfulness and resistance to cold. The growth of strong shoots immediately begins to recover, which play a role in the formation of the crop. You will also be able to protect the tree from diseases and pests.

Depending on the degree of shortening, the branches may react differently. The more you cut, the faster growth occurs on the remainder of the cut branch. This also applies to the cut diameter: the larger it is, the better the ability to grow.

For optimal results, you are provided with the golden rules of gardening.

1. Pruning trees regularly, but never at -8°C or colder.
2. Be a little picky when choosing tools and ladders (you and your garden depend on it).
3. First of all, get rid of dry, diseased and dead branches.
4. Disinfect cutting tools(especially after working with diseased plants).
5. The recommended angle at which branches should depart from the trunk is 45-60 degrees.
6. Limit the growth of the tops of all stone fruit trees, as well as pear and apple trees. This will only benefit them.
7. Replace all old, fruitless trees with young seedlings.
8. Use the experience you get from pruning trees (observe their reactions and draw successful conclusions).
9. Periodically inspect the trunks for wounds. If they are found, treat the tree.

Good luck and success in gardening!

Video - How to prune fruit trees