Folding table with your own hands. How to make a folding picnic table with your own hands. Drawing of a folding picnic table. Where to use folding structures

Reading time ≈ 7 minutes

There are things that many of us lack in Everyday life, and not of their own free will, but due to the surrounding life, and one of them is outdoor recreation. I want to tell you how to folding table for a picnic with your own hands, which can be used not only in the forest, but also in the country. Below are drawings and supporting videos that will help you with the assembly.

Folding table

Where to begin

Of course, you need to start with the assembly of the tools and materials necessary in this case.

Carpentry tools

Carpentry tool set

To get started, make sure you have all the carpentry tools you need to assemble your camping table. This is mandatory, since all work can stall due to the inability to do this or that operation. Therefore, you should prepare:

• hand circular saw and / or electric jigsaw;
• screwdriver with different nozzles (you can use an electric drill);
• a set of drills of different diameters;
• a set of chisels and a hammer;
• belt or disc grinder. If it is not available, you can get by with sandpaper;
• building angle with a measuring ruler;
• level (can be short);
• metric tape measure;
• burner (if necessary);
• a carpenter's pencil and a varnish brush (instead of a brush, some use a piece of foam rubber).

Note. The choice of instrument may be different in one case or another. Firstly, drawings and structural diagrams can differ significantly from each other. Secondly, carpenters have their own preferences - the same operation can be done with different tools.

We select the necessary materials

Plywood moisture resistant FC

To make a folding table, you can use different materials, therefore, the list contains all the blanks from which you have to make a choice:

• bar for legs with a cross section of 20x45, 30x40 or 30x45 mm. Length 300-600mm - 4 blanks for legs;
• bar 30 × 40 mm for fasteners and jumpers;
• board from 25 × 100 to 25 × 200 mm (for a plank tabletop);
• moisture resistant or laminated plywood (for plywood countertops);
• PVA glue, dowels;
• varnish for wood with stain;
• 2 screws with washers, nuts and locknuts for movable support units, 2 studs, 6 washers and 8 nuts or 2 bolts, 6 washers and 4 nuts for attaching the legs to the tabletop;
• stainless wood screws.

Assembly work

We will consider one of the assembly options with different countertops (plank and plywood), and you just choose for yourself what you see fit.

Table top and legs

Board preparation

In fact, it is not even necessary to use new boards to make a folding structure. For this purpose, old ones, blackened, but edged, are also suitable, so long as they are not affected by a fungus or shishel. If desired, the countertop can be made glued, but this is unlikely to be useful for a picnic. Boards should be sanded top and bottom, and then cut along desired length. After that, process the top edge around the perimeter at an angle of 45⁰, as in the photo above or in the video clip below.

Video: Plank worktop

But it is not at all necessary to make a tabletop from boards - it can be cut out of plywood 10-12 mm thick, but at the same time choose moisture-resistant brands. Be sure to sand the cut panel around the perimeter so that there are no sharp edges. It is also desirable to round the corners, and this already applies to the safety instructions.

Leg drawings

The easiest way to make a folding table with your own hands is to make X-shaped legs, which will not only unscrew from the tabletop, but also fold into a straight line under it. To do this, first of all, you should grind the bars, grinding off the edges, put them one on top of the other, find the middle and drill a hole through two workpieces at once. The hole diameter should match the bolt with nut and locknut you will be using. Substitute the washers under the bolt head and under the nut, and then tighten the structure so that the legs can move along this axis relative to each other. Make the second pair of legs in the same way.

Construction assembly

Elements for Assembly

Table assembly details:

1. countertop made of plywood or boards;
2. bar for stop legs;
3. bar for attaching legs;
4. second support post;
5. main support post;
6. straps for ligaments;
7. swivel axle bolt with washers, nut and locknut;
8. nuts;
9. rotary axis of the main rack.

Important! First of all, I want to draw your attention to the fact that the above drawing is designed for a plywood countertop. If it is plank, then between the bars No. 2 and No. 3 you need to screw the jumpers to stop the boards.

Now you need to decide on the length of the countertop - it should match the width of the trunk of your car, unless, of course, you plan to use your table only in the kitchen. If you set its width to about 400-450 mm, then the optimal length of each leg will be 310-360 mm, respectively (later you will understand why).

First, on the sides of the tabletop, stepping back from its edge no more than 25-30 mm, attach the support No. 2 and the main No. 3 bars. In this case, there are two options for fixing: they can be attached with dowels and PVA glue, or with stainless wood screws through the body of the countertop. At the same time, do not forget to take into account that the stop bar must be at least 50 mm longer than the main one in each direction.

Now let's figure out how to do correct connection legs with the main bar. To do this, round off the ends of the main support post No. 5 with a jigsaw and grind the edges so as not to drive a splinter during operation. You round the second support post only from the bottom side, and at the top you make a cut with a slope of 45⁰ so that the leg with a sharp end enters the corner between the stop bar and the table top.

We continue to assemble the folding one and mount the rotary assembly between the bar No. 3 and the rack No. 5. As you probably guessed, through rack No. 5 you need to drill a hole equal in diameter to the pin, and in bar No. 3 make this hole 2-2.5 mm smaller. Now screw a nut with a locknut onto one end of the stud or use a bolt. Put a washer under the head, insert it into the hole in the leg, on the other hand put the washer on and screw on the nut (preferably with a lock nut) so that the bolt has a slight play in the hole.

Put on the washer and screw the bolt #9 into the end hole of the bar #3. But at the same time, it is better to do the final tightening of the bolt or stud into bar No. 3 not through the head, but with an open-end wrench, pressing the nut with the locknut to the bar. Perform an identical operation from the other end of the tabletop and on the sides (almost at the very floor) fasten the strips for bundle No. 6. This completes the assembly.

Video: One of the folding table options

Finishing

Prefabricated wooden table top, varnished

Now all that's left is the woodworking and here you can go in different ways, but this will also depend on the material from which the countertop was made. The easiest option is to open the lumber with a stain, and after it dries, varnish it in several layers. In addition, you can purchase varnish with stain - here, too, only two or three layers will be enough. This is suitable for both plywood and solid wood.

Boards after firing

The most advanced way to design such furniture is to age the wood, and the easiest and cheapest way to do this is to fire it, but this is not for plywood, but for solid wood. Here you can use hand burner which works from gas spray. The flame, burning the fibers, emphasizes the structure of the tree (you can see an example in the top photo). After firing, the boards and bars are opened with colorless varnish, and when it dries and you go on a picnic, you will have appropriate place where to arrange food and drinks.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I want to say that someone is interested in a folding table-cabinet, which you can do with your own hands at home. But the thing is, it's more complex structure, moreover, such a topic will take a separate article.

Many of us love to go out into nature, and we take a lot of things with us. household inventory- pots, plates, forks and much more, as well as stocking up on food. By tradition, we start cooking, or just start getting ready-made food from bags and other devices, and the question immediately arises, where to put it all? Some will prefer the option with an ordinary tablecloth laid on the ground, which, as for me, is not very convenient, and it is unforgettable about local insects that will try to try the brought goodies.

The author of this article invites us to make a convenient folding table, which will obviously be better than the above written method. The work ahead is not difficult, everyone can cope with it. And, probably, the main advantage of this work will be that the table will not take up much space during its transportation to the place of rest, as it will be foldable.

For homemade table the following will be required.

Tool:

Hacksaw for wood;
- roulette;
- ruler;
- pencil;
- sandpaper;
- construction stapler;
- hammer;
- drill.

Materials:

Round wooden handle, 2 cm in diameter, 120 cm long (you can take thicker, but this is up to you);
- 3 pcs. planks (for a table and a fixing element) 2.5 m long, with a section of 1 x 5 cm;
- 4 things. transport bolts;
- 4 things. brass threaded nuts - inserts;
- nylon flat cord 120 cm long;
- construction staples 6 mm.

Let's start by cutting the legs for the table, you should get four equal parts, each 40 cm long.

Next, we take the boards that we will use for the countertop, cut them in the amount of 10 pieces, each 60 cm long, for this we use the one you have cutting tool. Then you need to saw off two more blanks, also 60 cm each, they will later be used as a fixing element for the countertop.

When all the details are sawn off into the parts we need, we grind, remove and round off the sharp edges, use sandpaper.

Next, you need to prepare a flat nylon braid, for this we cut off two pieces of 60 cm each, then with a lighter you need to burn the edges - this is so that the edges do not unravel over time.

Now we take all the slats that we left for the countertop, lay them out in a row. Between them you need to leave a small gap, it should be the same along the entire length. To do this, we use a small wooden block, which we substitute into the slot on both sides.

Then we take the prepared nylon braid and lay it out along the entire length, then with the help of construction stapler we begin to fix it to the planks, but if the stapler does not penetrate the rail well, you can use a hammer as an additional striking force. After that, we carry out the same operation on the second side of the table.

Next, we take a drill and make a hole in the four corners, as shown in the photo, insert a transport bolt into this hole.

After that, we take two fixing strips and put them across the countertop, mark and drill through holes, insert the bolt.

Let's move on to making the legs.
We take the legs, and in each of them we find and mark the middle, then use a drill to make a hole, using a drill with a diameter of 7 mm, the depth of such holes should be 25 mm. In order to make it more convenient to drill, we clamp the legs in a vise, winding them soft cloth, this is so as not to damage the wood.

When all the holes are ready, we put inside the bushings with internal threads.

Then you can screw the legs, you should get the following.

If desired, we give the table a brighter color using stain, varnish, paint or other type of coating.
As a result of all the actions, we get such an easy-to-make picnic table, which is easy to assemble and disassemble. For such a table, you can sew a special cover in which it will be more convenient to carry it.

A folding table is a convenient and practical thing that is popular among owners of small apartments, summer residents, outdoor enthusiasts.

Functionality of folding furniture

There is a wide variety of folding tables - the photo shows typical options. Often ready product purchased in specialized stores, it is not difficult to make a table yourself.

In small rooms, furniture is often used that allows you to rationalize free space - it unfolds if a large work surface is required, and is removed in other cases: student desks, tables in the kitchen, in the hall, garage, workshop, etc.

It is convenient to use portable models of tables: they are light, compact, moderately durable. They are made from different materials, each with its own strengths and weaknesses.

Wood must be protected from water, mold, but it is affordable and well processed, steel is heavy but strong, aluminum is easily damaged, but light.

It must be borne in mind that for outdoor use, protection from moisture is required. Metal structures should not rust, the materials used must be moisture resistant - an aluminum frame and a plastic worktop are often found as the best combination. Plywood, wood, fiberboard suitable for indoor use.

You need to choose a suitable table according to weight, dimensions. If the transportation of things involves the use of a car, then the total weight and shape of the tabletop is not of great importance, the main thing is that everything fits in the trunk of the car.

If you want to fit a folding table into a tourist backpack, the requirements are higher: minimum weight with maximum functionality.

During operation, it is important not to overload the tables - they are usually not designed for the weight of an adult, therefore it is unacceptable to use them as a stand for large items.

Which table to take for going out into nature

Inexpensive folding picnic tables are a sought-after product in stores. They are presented in a wide range. Sold separately or in combination with chairs. The height-adjustable rectangular countertop is the most popular option. Manufacturers specify the maximum load on the table, the average range is 20 - 40 kg, for metal structures 2-4 times more.

Home craftsmen, having minimal carpentry skills and appropriate tools, are able to make an analogue in the shortest possible time that is not inferior to the purchased table.

Homemade portable table No. 1

Materials:

• For the countertop: boards, chipboard or thick plywood, size 55cm x 30cm - 2 pcs.
• For legs: wooden beam 69 cm x 4.5 cm x 2 cm - 4 pcs., additional supports 50 cm x 4.5 cm x 2 cm - 4 pcs., crossbar 45 cm x 4 cm x 2 cm - 2 pcs.

The model of this folding table is convenient for transportation when folded, it is not difficult to do it yourself. A special feature is the folding mechanism, in which the tabletop splits into two parts.

The beam for the legs is rounded on one side and is connected to the foot supports not fixedly, but movably. To do this, a hole for fastening is drilled in the upper part of each future leg, bolted to the support. The tabletop is attached to the support with self-tapping screws.

The crossbars are fixed so that at the finished table in the unfolded state they are located at a distance of 15-20 cm from the ground, parallel to it. To increase overall stability, the lower part of the leg is sawn off at 45 degrees.

Before doing the work, it is necessary to prepare a drawing of the details.

Homemade portable table number 2

A one-piece table top is less compact, but it is easier and faster to make such a table than the previous version.

The fastening mechanism is simplified - two supports are connected to the tabletop and one pair of legs. The second pair moves freely, when unfolding, it rests against the limiter at the bottom of the working surface.

Most folding table models have cruciform legs - this is how the maximum strength and stability of the product is achieved.

For this, you have to endure some discomfort - sitting behind such a design is not very convenient.

You can also try another option, when four supports are arranged in parallel. The margin of safety then decreases.

Roll table

A compact product is obtained if a lining is used for the countertop, parquet boards or analogues. The size and shape is selected independently in accordance with personal preferences, it is even possible to make a round table.

The workpieces do not need to be rigidly connected to each other at the same distance. For this, a strong nylon tape is used. Fixation is carried out using a construction stapler or small nails.

It is permissible to temporarily insert small boards into the gaps during work, which will help ensure correct distance between table tops.

In order for the final structure to keep its shape and be durable, a pair of removable bars are placed along the edges, to which the legs are attached.

It is good to use parts of an old collapsible Soviet stool as a support, or prepare a similar one yourself. Ideally suited pads with a round cross section.

To be able to use this table, it remains only to do through hole in the countertop, removable bars and fix everything with bolts.

Outwardly, such a table is similar to a stationary one, but is not designed for heavy loads. When disassembled, it is easily rolled up, the legs and planks for fixing do not take up much space - it is convenient to transport and store.

It is easy to find a portable aluminum table on sale, which also folds into a roll and is placed in a protective case during storage.

With own weight of 5-7 kg similar models designed for an average load of 80 kg. They are quite durable, easy to use and have a reliable locking mechanism. For a large company going on vacation in nature, this is a good option.

Compact tables for apartments and cottages

Collapsible furniture is often used in stationary conditions with a shortage of space. If guests are expected to arrive, then ordinary seats behind dining table not enough, the presence of folding is great solution Problems.

Change in the number of permanent residents in the family with unchanged square meters also makes you think about the embodiment of interesting design solutions in your personal space.

A full-fledged office is a luxury available to everyone in a standard apartment, but to arrange a compact working area is quite real. Multifunctional furniture, such as transforming tables, is often used by schoolchildren and students.

Manufacturers modern furniture offer different models folding tables, the most picky buyer is able to choose the best option for himself.

Before buying, you need to think in advance what exactly the table is intended for, whether it will have a minimally useful constantly used area, or be stored in a secluded corner when folded.

The most sought-after square tables, which extend to a rectangular shape for a great deal. For many years, book tables have shown reliability and practicality. Sliding system on the principle of a slider also finds its application.

Convenient models with "wings" save space in the room. A bistro-type kitchen folding table is rational to use for a tiny room. They are laid out like an ironing board, hiding when not in use, freeing up usable space.

Many of these ideas can really be implemented independently if you have the desire and suitable materials. For the family budget, the benefit is obvious - a manufactured product will cost less than a new purchase.

You can implement the most daring ideas, optimally combined with the interior and the size of the room. Wooden table - classic version, but you can choose any source material, depending on personal preferences and the amount of planned costs.

Home craftsmen often like to remake suitable parts old furniture rather than buying new building materials.

Rationally select folding tables and do not experience domestic inconveniences at home and in field conditions.

Photo of a folding table

A do-it-yourself table may well be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any accumulated experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is fairly straightforward and understandable.

For example, it is not always possible to find a suitable ready-made table model for an overly small kitchen. Buying custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up tools and design your own “work” on your own, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.

In addition, there is often a desire to show their creative abilities in the conditions of a summer residence, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully equip a veranda or gazebo suburban area. If you have on hand suitable materials and tools, then you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use finished project and then get to work.

To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required for the manufacture of any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.

You can use the usual, traditional hand tools that carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:

• Planer, which level the wood and drive the parts to the desired size.
• Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
• Saws different sizes and modifications that cut thick boards or make small cuts.
• Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
• Screwdriver Set.
• Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
• Sandpaper for grinding.

Many of the tools can be replaced by more modern and convenient devices:

• An electric jigsaw will do all the work for which the various saws mentioned above were previously used.

• The grinder will help to make the surfaces even and polish them to a shine, eliminating the very tedious manual sanding procedure.

• Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help round sharp corners, drill curly grooves under furniture hinges, and if you need and have some experience, then with it you can decorate the table with a relief pattern.

• will significantly speed up the work, since you will not have to spend several minutes twisting each screw. In addition, during certain operations, it is possible to install one of the cutters or conventional drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).

• The building level will help to make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.

So that the finished furniture does not turn out "skewed", the assembly is controlled by the level

An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage

Make a similar country table- for everyone

Necessary materials

For such a country house, having a table top size of 1680 × 850 mm, it will not take too much a large number of wooden blanks. You need to prepare the following:

• Timber, section - 750 × 100 × 50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
• Board size:

— 1680×100×25 mm — 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);

— 850×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (transverse frame details);

— 1580×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (facing boards for the side elements of the frame);

— 950×100×25 mm — 17 pcs. (boards for countertops).

• Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
• Joiner's glue.

All wooden elements must be processed with formulations and have prepared smooth surface. If it is planned to “darken” the wood, then it is covered with a stain, and for the appearance of a textured pattern, it is carefully passed from above grinder. Fine-grained sandpaper will remove the faded raised parts of the wood pattern, and they will become lighter than the depressions.

Installation of a garden table

When all the details for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to the assembly.

Frame or "box" of the table

• The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards measuring 1680 × 100 × 25 mm and two end boards 850 × 100 × 25 mm, laid out on big table or on the floor. On the end boards, the location of the inner and outer boards is marked. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. Be sure to accurately note the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end, especially if the connection will be made by tie-in.

The connection of elements can be carried out in different ways:

Connection with the choice of "quarter" and using metal corners

- using a steel corner - this is the easiest and most reliable way;

- the tie-in method is a more complicated method, since it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;

Several types of tongue and groove connection

- “groove-thorn”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for beginners with no experience;

- dowel connection is shown in fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be joined.

• All connections, as a rule, are carried out using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
• The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, therefore, after connecting all the elements, it is necessary to carry out control using a building corner and measure and compare the length of the diagonals.
• If the parts are fixed with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.

• When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, cladding boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are fixed to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their fastening also needs to be marked, since there should be a distance along their edges for mounting the legs. Facing boards are also planted on glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be sunk into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.

• The next step is the transverse sheathing of the tabletop with boards 950 × 100 × 25 mm. The place of their fastening must also be marked first, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The worktop protrusion above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.

• Further, each of the boards is fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the "box" of the table, and the extreme boards are also fixed to the end sides. In order for the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the boards to a depth of 2 ÷ 3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the screws will be screwed. To prevent cracking of boards installation work through holes must be drilled.

• After that, on the edge longitudinal boards legs are fixed from a bar with a section of 750 × 100 × 50 mm, they must exactly match the width of the table top.

The next step is to install the legs.

• The legs can be fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the junction. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and nuts are tightened on them from the inside of the frame using a wrench.
• The final stage of manufacturing is the sealing of the self-tapping screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. With this home-made putty, fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue dries, the entire countertop, and especially the places covered with “corks” of glue, must be sanded well.

• After that, the table can be varnished or painted on water based. After waiting for the decorating or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in summerhouse, on the veranda or terrace in the recreation area.

If desired, it will be easy to make a bench or a set for the table.

Small folding table for the kitchen

Such a small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.

• Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally hit, so the table is quite safe for installation in the children's room.
• The presence of a double-sided capacious bedside table will allow you to store various little things and small toys in it.
• The table is equipped with a worktop of sufficient size so that the child, sitting at it, can do homework.
• In addition, on the tabletop there is a place for a laptop or books necessary for studying.
• If necessary, this small table can easily replace ironing board if a soft cloth is laid on its surface.

Given all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.

Learn how and also check out several models with detailed instructions, in a special article of our portal.

Necessary materials and parts for a folding table

To assemble such a comfortable piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the details that make it up. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:

Scheme of the table with the assembly part numbers affixed (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

part number on the drawing	the name of detail	Quantity, pcs.	Part size, mm	Production material, thickness, mm
1	Folding table top.	1	600×600
2	Fixed table top.	1	600×475	Plywood 25 mm thick
3		2	530×30
4		2	120×30	Plywood 18 mm thick
5	The upper end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×30	Plywood 18 mm thick
6	Groove element for leg movement on a folding tabletop.	2	530×20	Plywood 18 mm thick
7	Groove element for the movement of the legs on the table top.	2	120×20	Plywood 18 mm thick
8	The lower end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×20	Plywood 18 mm thick
9	Side walls of the table.	2	720×520	MDF 19 mm
10	The horizontal details of the pedestal, forming shelves.	3	520×312	MDF 19 mm
11	Bottom vertical part internal partition pedestals.	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
12	The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the pedestal.	1	312×184	MDF 19 mm
13	The middle horizontal part of the pedestal.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
14	Cabinet door.	1	477×346	MDF 19 mm
15	Cabinet shelf.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
16	The front panel of a drawer of a curbstone.	1	346×209	MDF 19 mm
17	The front panel of the drawer (located behind the front).	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
18	Drawer side panels.	2	341×250	MDF 19 mm
19	Back panel of the drawer.	1	272×120	MDF 19 mm
20	Bottom panel of the drawer.	1	341×272	MDF 19 mm
	Drawer handles and drawer doors.	2	Ø 30 mm	Wood
	Upper leg piece.	1	80×80×18	Plywood 18 mm thick
	Mobile table leg.	1	Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702	Wood
	Furniture hinges for connecting two parts of the tabletop.	2	Ø 50 mm	Metal
	Furniture hinges for doors.	2	The size depends on the shape.	Metal
	Bottom end panels covering the gap under the pedestal.	2	20×300×5	Plywood 5 mm

The drawings show a drawing of the table, which can be relied upon in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.

The main dimensions of the table (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

Separate nodes of the table - drawer and a guide channel for moving the leg (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

For the manufacture of all the parts listed in the table, modern electric tools will be required that are able to bring the workpieces to professional perfection.

Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.

Installation of a folding table-cabinet

It is worth starting the manufacture of the table with the most important and largest part of it - the table top. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and "mobile", that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table may well serve as an ordinary compact pedestal.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first step from plywood 25 mm thick, using a jigsaw or circular saw, it is necessary to cut blanks for the countertop, 600 × 600 and 600 × 475 mm in size.
	Further, marking is carried out on a larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve correct form semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or make it yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope.
	Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or a circular saw with the appropriate compass attachment on it.
	Further, a milling cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, if desired, even or rounded.
	The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will be joined to the second part of the countertop even. Then its edges are processed in the same way.
	In the next step, the two processed parts of the tabletop are laid on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Marking is made for the installation of furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the countertop. Furniture hinges can have different shapes, so they should be laid in the marked place and circled with a simple pencil. Then, with the help of a router, special curly grooves are arranged in plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. In the finished holes, the loops are fixed with self-tapping screws.
	After connecting the two parts of the table top with hinges, in the middle of the panels, on their lower side, markings are made to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides must be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed by a milling cutter: 530 × 30 mm in size - 2 pcs., 530 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 120 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 30 mm - 1 pc., 120 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on one edge, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed over the lower rails of the rails, are cut off at the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These sections are necessary so that their corners do not interfere with the movement of the legs along the formed channel. Then, to the lined section of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the countertop, the parts are glued with carpentry glue. First, they are fixed with glue, and then the longest rails, having a size of 530 × 20 mm, are screwed with self-tapping screws, then the part 122 × 20 mm blocks the channel. On top of the long and short fixed rails, the second ones are glued, having the same length, but a greater width - they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the table top and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places for screwing in the screws so that the upper ones do not stumble upon those that fix the lower rails. In the same way, four parts are fixed on the rectangular part of the table top. All elements must be processed to smoothness and perfectly evenly fixed to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving.
	The leg is usually made on lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from the master or purchase it at ready-made. IN last resort, you can make it square by processing the timber of the desired height to smoothness. Then, on the upper end part of the leg, with the help of a dowel and glue, a guide square plate made of plywood, measuring 80 × 80 × 18 mm, is fixed exactly in the center.
	Further, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made.
	The finished tabletop is painted or coated with a water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured plywood pattern. After that, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of cabinets.
	The elements of the cabinet do not have complex configurations, therefore, in order to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out with a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be machined to smoothness with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy.
	If you plan to paste over the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and provides reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels.
	The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make curly grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and fixed. Holes are made in the same way as in the countertop using a router, but in this case, the cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be located at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before drilling, it is necessary to carefully mark out. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet, on which the door will be fixed. Then the door walls are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for self-tapping screws.
	In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, stepping back from the edge of the panel 50 mm and finding a comfortable position in height, a point is marked through which a through hole is drilled to secure the handle.
	All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. The paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but also protect the material from damage. negative impact specific kitchen humid environment.
	Next, you can proceed to the assembly of the nightstand. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can assemble on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on even bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be carried out using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the caps of the self-tapping screws will have to be masked after assembly. various formulations. The build process goes like this: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels and its location are marked with a pencil using a building corner. -Immediately, the location of fasteners is simultaneously outlined on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then, holes are drilled at the marked points of the bottom and the end sides of the side panels for installing dowels. - After that, before gluing the parts, places for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, in the marked places, shelf-holder brackets are mounted, for which holes are also drilled. - Further, dowels lubricated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, and put on their upper, protruding part side walls. - In the same way, non-removable jumper shelves are mounted, simultaneously with the side walls.
	Before proceeding, make sure the adhesive is in assembled structure dry well. To make the cabinet more rigid, it is laid on its side and compressed with clamps for drying.
	While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the drawer can also be done using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for mounting fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Further, the dowels are smeared with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom.
	Between themselves, the sidewalls are twisted with the help of self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be drowned in wood, and the holes are sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another option for fastening can be furniture corners, which are screwed to the sidewalls from the inside with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners.
	When assembling a box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners with a building corner and a change in diagonals, otherwise a skew may form.
	If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the box, then first, on the sides of the boxes and on the inner walls of the cabinet, the place of their attachment is determined. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, a line is drawn along which the guides will be fixed.
	Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the box. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. It is recommended that, in addition to self-tapping screws, glue is used to fasten the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are pulled together by four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue dries in the center facade panel a hole is drilled through which the handle is screwed.
	Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - the connection of the cabinet and countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the countertop to the surface of the cabinet, and then fix it with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But, first, the countertop must be properly positioned. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the legs towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg by 120 mm.
	Having fixed the countertop, they proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table doors onto the self-tapping screws. Then a drawer is inserted, and shelves are installed on the shelf holders.
	When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, for its decoration, you can choose other colors that will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room.
	In the open state, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its "light" design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the table top makes it safe for children. Therefore, this version of the table can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms.

If there is a need to save money, or simply there is a great desire to prove oneself in carpentry, then you should not postpone self-manufacturing. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.

Sometimes situations arise when guests come to the house and the owners have nowhere to seat everyone. In this situation, it is better to think about how to make a sliding table with your own hands in order to use it every day and in the event of a large feast.

It is worth noting that the manufacture of such a model is within the power of even beginners in carpentry. You can easily outdo designer tables by adding a little personality to the furniture. This option can be used both for the kitchen and for the dining room, it is great for large and small rooms. A practical folding table can be one of the most useful things in your home.

Dining tables are pretty simple designs. Folding models are equipped with a special mechanism and additional countertops. In general, everything is quite simple, the main thing is to draw up drawings correctly at the very initial stage of work.

1 2 3
4 5

The main requirements for carpentry work are the quality of the material and the strength of its fastening. We all know what loads the table must withstand and must comply with this standard. In addition, this furniture is very often transported, and this is another signal that you need to take care of the strength of the structure.

Dimensions are set from the one who will use the sliding table. There are practically no restrictions here, except that the countertops must hold firmly at the base.

The retractable parts are attached only at the very edge, so making them very long will not win you. With any heavier load than their own weight, they will sag, and as a result, they will completely break. It is worthwhile to reasonably approach this issue and consider some schemes that will tell you the optimal length for your kitchen table.

What material to choose?

All carpenters have a question, what material to choose for extendable table with your own hands? A lot depends on what you plan to make, as well as on your finances.

1 2 3 4

Remember that the countertop, more often than other places, will be exposed to moisture, food debris and other substances that damage it. Therefore, you should choose the material that resists all liquids as much as possible and not only. The following types of wood are considered the best in this case:

• pine;
• nut.

Before you start creating the shape of the countertop, the wood must be thoroughly dried. It is advisable to use a special moisture-repellent solution and cover the surface in several layers. Also, for additional protection be sure to use varnish.

To assemble the legs, you can use the same material as for the tabletop. A do-it-yourself sliding table will last longer if it consists of the same material. The bars must be at least four centimeters, since only such a thickness will make it possible to withstand a heavy array of wood and subsequent loads on the product.

Tools for the job

It should be understood that the assembly of such furniture can take you quite a lot of time. For a broader understanding of the process, watch the video on how to do it step by step with detailed explanations. You can learn something important for yourself from there and add something new to your table model.

In order for all the work to go right, you should prepare all the essential tool. Today it is not too a big problem, almost everyone has a similar set in the house:

• screwdriver;
• drill;
• jigsaw;
• Sander;
• building level and tape measure;
• construction adhesive.

In addition, you should buy sliding mechanisms in advance kitchen tables, which later you just need to install.

Assembly order

Start collecting parts from the bottom of the table, that is, from the legs. Be sure to make marks at the joints in advance, accurately measuring all distances. Before direct assembly, it is advisable to varnish all the parts, so the tree will retain its original appearance longer.

The upper part of the table and the mechanisms are fixed on the legs. It turns out some contouring of the product, on which, as a result, the countertops will be attached.

Remember that a properly drawn up scheme will help to assemble the mechanism the first time, as experienced carpenters do.

Tabletops are attached to the building corners to the already finished contouring. You need to do this on small screws so as not to damage it. appearance. Be sure to tighten everything thoroughly. For additional fastening of fixed parts of the table, use building glue.

Today, many people are trying to try themselves in carpentry. And rightly so, because a thing created by oneself is much more pleasing than buying in a store. Moreover, if you are a creative person, then using imagination, you can easily add bright details to your room.