Insulation of the bathhouse ceiling - choosing the appropriate material. How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof Insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse step-by-step instructions

detailed instructions for insulating a bathhouse from the inside: insulating walls, floors and ceilings. To insulate a bathhouse with your own hands, you don’t need to have any special skills; you only need a standard set of tools and our instructions!

The vast majority of country house owners cannot imagine their property without a real Russian bathhouse or sauna. But in order for it to function properly, and really bring only strength and health to the owners, it is very important to insulate it well; methods of insulation are considered at the stage of drawing up the bathhouse design, but this can also be done with a completed building

To know how to properly insulate a bathhouse from the inside, you need to study the technology of this process and choose the right materials.

Materials for work

Before you start considering insulation technology, you need to figure out what materials need to be prepared for the job.

1. Thermal insulation material- is the most important component in the process of insulating the walls, ceiling and floor of the bathhouse. Today there is a large number of insulation materials, but not all of them are suitable for bath conditions. Which ones are most adapted to high temperatures and humidity?

Rating of insulation for baths

	Photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1			⭐ 82 / 100
#2			⭐ 86 / 100
#3			⭐ 88 / 100
#4			⭐ 92 / 100
#5			⭐ 98 / 100

• Low price
• Good thermal insulation
• Light weight
• Multifunctionality and wide scope of application
• Durability
• High resistance against fungi and various microorganisms
• Easy to install

• When burned, releases toxic substances
• Release of harmful substances even at low temperatures
• Creates a vapor barrier
• Hygroscopicity
• Afraid of the sun's rays
• Whole until the mice get there
• Not resistant to solvents
• Low resistance to mechanical damage

Prices for expanded polystyrene

expanded polystyrene

• It “sticks” perfectly to any materials – brick, glass, wood, concrete and metal.
• It is distinguished by its extraordinary lightness and does not weigh down the surface.
• The polyurethane foam coating does not respond to cold weather and warming throughout the year.
• Unlike sheet and panel thermal insulation, this type of insulation is a single whole. There are no joints or seams through which cold air can enter the room.

• Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, rapid wear of the insulation can occur.
• Polyurethane foams are low-flammability materials. However, where the surface becomes too hot or may catch fire, polyurethane foam should not be used.

• High price of material and high cost of spraying services

Prices for polyurethane foam

polyurethane foam

• Low thermal conductivity, which makes it an excellent insulation material
• Fire safety
• Resistant to temperature changes.
• Excellent vapor permeability, making the material “breathable”
• Easy to install

• When moisture is absorbed, the thermal insulation properties decrease and cold bridges form.
• Large weight and volume, increased shipping costs

Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

• High frost resistance – withstands temperatures down to -70 °C without loss of properties.
• High degree of fire resistance.
• Safety for humans.
• Durability - 45 years.

• Low vapor permeability – 0.007-0.008 mg/m·h·Pa.
• Flammability. Even despite its self-extinguishing properties, the material burns when in contact with fire.
• Low sound insulation.
• Blowability of seams.

Prices for XPS Boards

• Low price
• Acid resistance
• Quickly absorbs moisture and does not lose its positive qualities

• Long drying
• Requires dust protection during installation

Prices for expanded clay

Getting to know characteristics leads to the conclusion that mineral wool for walls and wooden floors is most suitable for insulating a bathhouse from the inside, and XPS boards- for concrete. Expanded clay can be called a universal material that is perfect for any floor, but for walls it is used for internal insulation it is forbidden.

If you buy it, it will be perfect for a bath material with a foil layer, which promotes long-term heat retention indoors using the principle of a thermos. For example, some characteristics of foil mineral wool insulation from the Izorok company are shown in the table:

	Izolight-L	Isolite	Isovent	Izokor-S	Isophor	Izoruf
Density, kg/m³	40	50	90	105	110	150
Compressive strength at 10% deformation, kPa, not less			20		25	50
Ultimate peel strength of layers, kPa, not less			4		4	12
Declared thermal conductivity coefficient, W/m×°K	0,035	0,034	0,034	0,036	0,034	0,036
Thermal conductivity coefficient under operating conditions, W/m×°K	0,043	0,038	0,039	0,041	0.040	0,042
Water absorption by volume, %, no more	1.5	1.5	1.5	1.5	1.5	1
Humidity by mass, %, no more	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5
Content of organic substances by weight, %, no more	2.5	2.5	4	4	4	4

Suitable for heat and sound insulation work on the walls, ceiling and floor of a bathhouse. But it is still recommended to arrange several layers of thermal insulation on the floors, the first of which should be expanded clay. The important thing is that rodents avoid it, which means that all other materials will be safe.

2. To fasten mineral wool mats or other foil insulation, and create a seamless sealed surface coating, you will need to purchase special foil tape.

3. The insulation is placed between the sheathing guides, which means it will require wooden blocks cross-section, which depends on the thickness of the insulation mats. If, as an example, we take the recommended insulation thickness of 100 mm, then the bars should have the same size on one side, or double lathing with perpendicular guides and a two-layer arrangement of mats will be used.

4. The bars are attached to the walls using self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors (depending on the type wall material), therefore it is necessary to purchase these elements of the required length, corresponding to both the size of the guides and the required penetration into the walls - for wood - 20 ÷ 25 mm, for solid walls - at least 40 mm.

5. If you choose insulation without a foil layer, then to cover it you will need a vapor barrier film.

6. If the floor in the bathhouse is filled with concrete screed, then in addition to insulation you will need:

— cement and sand or ready-made construction mixture;

- roofing felt;

— reinforcing mesh;

— guides for beacons;

- polyethylene film ;

- damper tape.

The amount of materials will depend on the area of ​​the floor, ceiling and walls of the insulated room.

Having prepared everything you need, you can move on to insulating the surfaces of bath rooms.

Insulation of bath floors

As you know, a bathhouse can be built of wood or brick, which is why not only wood, but also concrete is installed. The latter is most often poured into brick bath, but sometimes they do it in wood. In any case, a concrete floor always requires enhanced insulation.

Thermal insulation of floors in any bathhouse should be given special attention, since they must withstand high humidity and temperature changes between the rooms and the ground. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of a multi-layer “pie” of a wooden floor or a concrete device, it is recommended to cover the entire surface under the structure of the bathhouse with a medium fraction or slag.

The expanded clay layer will depend on the thickness of the walls of the building. It must be at least twice as thick as they are. It should be noted that if it is possible and space allows to make the expanded clay embankment thicker, then this will only increase the effectiveness of thermal insulation. If the bathhouse is built of brick and installed on a concrete foundation, then it is recommended to fill it with expanded clay almost to the entire height of the foundation strip.

Floor covered with expanded clay “cushion”

Concrete floor

In order for the concrete floor of the bathhouse to be warm, you need to do a number of operations that are carried out after connecting the drain pipe (it must be raised in advance to the height of the future screed). The work consists of the following stages:

• The soil is compacted well in the morning, and the walls are covered with a waterproofing compound.
• Next, a layer of sand 80 ÷ 100 mm thick is poured onto the ground, moistened and compacted.
• Roofing felt is laid on top of the sand, extending onto the walls by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm. The canvases are laid with an overlap of 120 ÷ 150 mm; it is advisable to fasten them with waterproof tape or thermally glue them together using tar mastic.
• Next, expanded clay is poured onto the roofing felt in such a way that the future floor screed is approximately 50 mm lower than the height of the foundation.

• Next, expanded clay is distributed over the entire surface in an even layer. Additionally, XPS slabs 50 mm thick can be laid on it - they have sufficient rigidity and can easily withstand all loads; do not forget that before laying them, expanded clay should be covered with dense polyethylene.

• A reinforcing mesh with cells from 50 to 100 mm is laid on the surface prepared in this way.
• Beacons are placed on top of the reinforcing belt, along which it will be aligned.
• If the opening of the drain pipe is located in the center of the insulated room, then the beacons are laid at a slight angle to it, so that when leveling the concrete, a slight slope is formed on all sides of the room towards the drain.
• Next, along the perimeter of the room, a damper tape is glued or otherwise attached to the lower part of the walls. This measure will preserve the screed from deformation during temperature changes, since compensates thermal expansion of the material.

• Prepared concrete, mixed with sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1, is laid on the reinforcing mesh and leveled using building regulations. It is advisable to introduce into the composition special plasticizers that are commercially available - this will improve the quality of the coating. Often, ready-made screed mixtures with an already optimized composition for rooms with high humidity or for external works .
• After the screed has hardened and gained strength, it is impregnated with a waterproofing compound () of deep penetration.

• When the soil dries, it is laid ceramic tile. Another option is to install joists with wooden flooring on the concrete floor. Well-treated boards on it should be fixed at a distance of 20 ÷ 30 mm from each other.

Wooden floor

For wooden baths Wooden floors are traditional. To arrange them correctly, in addition to insulation operations, you need to provide high-quality waterproofing. Don’t forget about floor ventilation - for this, special channels must be left in the foundation.

Work on installation and insulation of the floor is carried out in such a sequence:

• First of all, it is brought to the bathhouse a drain pipe. The drain is usually located in the middle of the room, and all insulation materials and the ceiling are arranged around it.

• Roofing material is laid on the compacted soil, which should rise to the walls by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• Expanded clay is laid on top of the waterproofing. The greater its thickness, the better, but between its surface and the floor beams there must be a ventilation distance of at least 200 ÷ 250 mm.
• Next, on waterproofed Floor beams are laid in layers of roofing felt over the protruding part of the foundation. All wooden floor elements must be treated in advance.

• Skull blocks are nailed or screwed onto the lower parts of the floor beams, onto which the subfloor boards will be mounted.

• The subfloor is covered with a vapor-proof film, which covers both the floor beams and the boards laid between them.
• Next, insulation is laid on the subfloor between the floor beams - it can be mineral wool or expanded clay.

• The top of the insulating material is covered with another layer of vapor barrier film.

On top is another layer of water vapor barrier

• The logs are fixed perpendicular to the floor beams, on which the wooden flooring is placed. A hole is made in the middle - the drain pipe will go into it.

• On the style, slats are nailed, cut at an angle of 5-7 degrees towards the drain - they will become a lathing for installing a waterproof wooden floor.
• Insulation is placed between the sheathing bars with the foil layer facing up and secured together with foil tape. The thermal insulator must completely cover the sheathing bars.

• A leak-proof, well-fitted, finished wooden flooring is laid on top at an angle.

Another insulation option for wooden and concrete floors

In addition to those presented above, there are also a very large number different options insulation of the bath floor. Can you briefly talk about one more thing? possible way flooring using expanded polystyrene. The method is more labor-intensive, but is suitable for both concrete and wooden coverings.

1 - soil;

2- layer of sand;

3 - foam plastic boards;

4 - cement mortar with foam chips;

5 - waterproofing layer;

6 - cement mortar with vermiculite;

7 - concrete screed;

9 - boardwalk.

• In this option, the space under the future floor will have to be deepened by 500 ÷ 600 mm, and the soil at its bottom will have to be compacted well.
• Then, a layer of sand 50 ÷ 70 mm thick is poured onto the bottom, which is wetted and compacted with a hand tamper.
• A dense waterproofing film is laid on top of this layer, which should completely cover the bottom and extend 200-300 mm onto the walls. It must be securely fastened to its walls.
• Instead of expanded clay, which was used in the first versions, a layer of expanded polystyrene boards is laid on the film. Its total thickness must be at least 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• Next, a screed made of cement mortar And foam chips in proportions 2:1. The thickness of this layer should be 50 ÷ 70 mm. This layer will not only insulate, but also strengthen the slab material laid below.
• Then a layer of waterproofing is laid again - for it you can use dense plastic film or roofing felt. The canvases must be fastened together with waterproof tape.
• The next layer in this “pie” is a layer of concrete with vermiculite, mixed in a 3:1 ratio. Its thickness should be 50 ÷ 100 mm. is a natural material that has high heat-insulating properties. Insects and rodents never settle in it, it is not subject to rotting and decomposition. A vermiculite layer will significantly increase the thermal insulation of the floor.

This is what natural material looks like - vermiculite

The table shows the proportions cement-vermiculite solutions and their performance characteristics:

Characteristics of solutions with vermiculite
Cement (kg)	40	30	250	200	150	120	100
Vermiculite (liter)	130	130	130	130	130	130	130
Water (liter)	42.5	41	40	39.5	39	38.5	38
Volumetric weight (kg/m³) dry	60	50	43	39	34	31	29
Compressive strength (kg/cm²)	20	13	10	7	5	2	1
Dry thermal conductivity (W/m×°K)	0.13	0.11	0.1	0,092	0,083	0,075	0,07
Thermal conductivity at 5% humidity (W/m×°K)	0.17	0,145	0.13	0.12	0.105	0.09	0.08
Sound absorption coefficient at frequency 1000 Hz	0.37	0.51	0.54	0,56	0.6	0.64	0.73

• The frozen screed is strengthened reinforcement mesh with cells up to 100 mm, and beacons for the upper concrete screed. The beacons are fixed to concrete or gypsum mortar, at an angle of 5-7 degrees towards the drain.
• Next, concrete is laid out on this structure, in the same proportions and combinations with modifying additives, as described above. The thickness of the screed near the drain should be at least 50mm.
• After strengthening the screed, ceramic tiles are laid on it or removable wooden flooring for wet floors is installed.

Boards in this the floor is fixed at a distance of 15 ÷ 20 mm from each other - this will not only allow water to quickly drain from the flooring, but also allow the wood to dry out. In addition, removable ones can be periodically placed outside for ventilation and drying, so you need to foresee their size in advance so that they can easily pass through the bathhouse door.

Insulation of bath walls

It is equally important, in addition to the floor, to reliably insulate the walls and ceiling of bath rooms. Brick walls and ceiling wooden bath They are insulated according to the same principle, the only difference between them will be the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. Since wood has a lower thermal conductivity than brick, the latter will require a thicker layer of insulation.

Special attention- insulation of bath walls

The process of wall insulation is carried out as follows:

• The walls are treated with an antiseptic composition - it will protect them from the appearance and spread of mold and mildew.
• Next, you need to attach a water vapor barrier film to the wall.
• The sheathing is installed.
• Insulation is placed between the sheathing guides.
• Vapor barrier is attached.
• The counter-lattice slats are nailed down - this will create the necessary ventilation gap.
• The facing material is installed.

The sequence of work is general, but walls made of different materials have their own characteristics.

Brick walls

• Sheathing bars are fixed to the brick wall in increments of 600 mm. The cross-sectional size of the timber must be equal to the thickness of the selected insulation. Usually, for a brick wall, slag wool in mats 100 mm thick is used for insulation, which means that the thickness of the sheathing guides should be 100 mm.

• Insulation is placed between the bars in the spacer. You can help fix it with a stretched zigzag nylon cord.
• The next layer is a water vapor barrier film, which is secured to the sheathing bars. Overlaps between the canvases (at least 150 mm) are glued with waterproof tape.
• Next, counter battens are nailed to the bars.
• Then foil insulation, 8 ÷ 10 mm thick, is stretched over the entire surface and attached to the slats. The joints are sealed with foil tape.

• On top, the entire “pie” is sheathed with wooden clapboard, which is secured to the same counter-lattice slats.

It should be noted that if foil insulation is used in the insulation process, then the additional layer of vapor barrier can be eliminated, since this type of insulation material perfectly retains steam.

Insulation of a log wall

1 - log wall;

2 - basalt insulation with foil surface;

3 - sheathing bars;

4 - lining;

5 - ventilation gap between the insulation and the lining.

The walls of a log bathhouse themselves have low thermal conductivity and retain heat well inside the room, provided that the joints of the logs at the corners and between each other are well sealed. Therefore, insulation is carried out as follows:

• Basalt mineral wool with a foil layer is fixed to the wall, which should face the room. The thickness of the insulation is selected from 50 to 80 mm. You can secure it special fastenings with wide caps - “fungi”, which are embedded in the insulation.
• Wooden sheathing bars are nailed vertically or horizontally on top of the insulation.
• Next, the wall is sheathed, having a thickness of 10 mm - it is attached to the sheathing bars.

Insulation of timber walls

A wall made of timber should be, just like a log wall, well insulated by itself, that is, all cracks and gaps are caulked with tow. It is easier to attach all the components of the insulation “pie” to it, since it has a flat surface into which fasteners can be easily screwed or hammered. Its insulation occurs in the following sequence:

• A sheathing made of timber is attached to the wall, at a distance of guides from each other of 600 mm.
• Next, insulation material is laid between the bars - it is better if it is mineral wool.
• Then the entire structure is covered with rolled foil insulation, which is fixed to the sheathing bars, and the joints of the individual panels are glued together with foil tape.
• Counter slats are nailed on top of the bars, which will create a ventilation gap between the insulation and the lining.
• At the end of the process, the insulating “pie” is lined with clapboard.

It must be said that there are other options for laying insulation layers, but the ones given above are considered the most popular and frequently used, since they are completely uncomplicated and have long been tested in practice.

Ceiling insulation

The ceiling can be mounted and insulated in three ways - you can choose any of them if it is suitable for the existing structure of the bathhouse.

Panel ceiling

This ceiling is mounted from panels, which already consist of all the layers necessary for vapor barrier, insulation and internal cladding, mounted on support bars. Mineral wool with a thickness of at least 100 mm is most often used as insulation in the panels.

The shields are mounted at the bottom and rise up in finished form. The peculiarity of such insulation is that insulation gaskets must also be laid between the finished panels - this process is carried out after the panels are fixed to the bathhouse ceiling.

Lifting the panels upward can be complicated by the fact that when assembled they have quite a lot of weight, so very often they are lifted in parts and assembled at a height.

false ceiling

A false ceiling is fundamentally different in design from a panel ceiling, since its installation follows a different principle, somewhat similar to wall insulation.

• The frame for such a ceiling is beams attic floor, laid in increments of 600 mm.
• On the side of the attic, waterproofing is laid on the floor beams, which should cover the entire ceiling area.
• A wooden flooring is fixed to the waterproofing, also from the attic side.
• Insulation is placed between the floor beams.

• Then the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier or foil material, which is fixed to the floor beams.
• The last stage is covering the ceiling with wooden paneling.

There is another option for insulating a false ceiling, using other insulating materials, for example, expanded clay. In this case, almost all the work is done from the attic side, except for the finishing of the ceiling surface with clapboard.

Flat ceiling

The floor ceiling also differs from the two already mentioned in its design, in particular - in that it is laid directly on the walls of the room, that is, in principle it does not rest on the floor beams. For such a ceiling, boards with a thickness of at least 30 mm are used.

From the attic side, a vapor barrier and insulation are laid on the boards, which are covered with a waterproofing film and plywood or plank flooring.

The advantages of this design include speed and ease of installation, but this ceiling option can only be used with insulation small room baths, with distances between walls no more than 2.5 ÷ 2.7 m.

A detailed publication with a description of all the materials required for this and step-by-step instructions can be found on the pages of our portal by following the recommended link.

If the installation of thermal insulation and auxiliary materials is carried out correctly, then the heat in bath rooms will last a very long time, which will help significantly save on fuel.

In conclusion - a detailed video tutorial on insulating a bathhouse built using frame technology.

Video: insulation and finishing of a frame bath

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To maintain optimal temperature conditions and steam generation in the bath during health treatments comprehensive insulation of the building should be ensured.

All this will lead to an increase in the load on the heating equipment to warm the room, which means:

• rapid wear or breakdown of equipment as a result of extreme loads;
• increasing the heating time of the steam room;
• an increase in fuel consumption, and therefore an increase in the cost of utilities.

To maintain optimal temperature and humidity conditions in the steam room, it is necessary to take a comprehensive approach to the selection and installation of insulating material. After all, improper thermal insulation of the bathhouse ceiling can lead to an increase in heat loss and a decrease in the service life of the interior decorative finishing.

Materials

Which better material should I use it to insulate the ceiling surface in a bathhouse? Experts recommend choosing insulation materials that can be used in extreme conditions. Below are the requirements for these materials:

• resistance to temperature changes, high humidity and vapor formation;
• resistance to damage by fungi, mold and pathogens;
• inertness to rotting and burning;
• safety and environmental friendliness;
• low thermal conductivity and moisture absorption;
• simple and affordable installation;
• long service life.

Thermal insulation materials for baths include:

Mineral wool

The most common mineral-based insulation, which is widely used for internal insulation of bath buildings. It is made from basalt fiber, therefore it has low thermal conductivity, good thermal insulation, and resistance to high temperatures and humidity.

Another indisputable advantage of the material is its high fire resistance. Mineral wool is used for internal and external insulation and can withstand heating temperatures of over 650 degrees. The service life of the insulation reaches 45 years, due to its resistance to the development of pathogenic microflora and rotting.

Among the disadvantages are the tendency to get wet and the fragility of basalt fiber. To eliminate them, it is enough to use a vapor barrier membrane with a special coating of aluminum chips.

Mineral wool is produced in slabs or rolls with a thickness of 50 to 100 mm. One type of insulation is cotton wool with a foil-coated heat-reflecting layer.

Polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam

Budget and practical option insulation of the bath ceiling. Insulation materials are lightweight, low cost and easy to install. Other advantages of polystyrene foam include:

• low thermal conductivity;
• low moisture absorption;
• resistance to rotting and mold infection.

Polymer insulation also has some disadvantages:

• susceptibility to destruction at temperatures above 75 degrees;
• release of toxic substances;
• low vapor permeability, susceptibility to aggressive components and fire.

Taking into account all the negative characteristics, it is recommended to use polystyrene foam (foam) to insulate the bathhouse ceiling from the outside. It is not suitable for interior work.

Penoizol

A modern type of thermal insulation for the ceiling surface, which is urea-formaldehyde cellular foam. The advantages of the material include:

• low thermal conductivity;
• seamless application;
• high resistance to mechanical and chemical influences;
• inertness to rotting and fire;
• long service life - up to 75 years;
• affordable price.

The only drawback is increased moisture absorption. Penoizol is produced in the form of slabs and thermal wool.

Izover

The most popular thermal insulator for ceiling bases is mineral-based - slag, dolomite, basalt and diabasalt. It is practical, affordable and easy to install. Produced in roll and tile form. Has the following advantages:

• resistance to biological, mechanical and chemical influences;
• inertness to moisture absorption;
• light weight, which simplifies delivery and lifting to heights;
• environmental cleanliness and safety;
• long service life in high humidity conditions.

The material has some disadvantages - resistance to heating temperatures up to 300 degrees, the possibility of emitting a small amount of smoke upon fire.

Ecowool

An environmentally friendly and safe heat insulator, which contains cellulose, sodium tetraborate and boric acid. Thanks to its unique structure, ecowool is highly resistant to rotting, damage by fungi, mold and insects, and does not emit hazardous substances when heated.

The main advantages of the material include:

• low thermal conductivity;
• environmental friendliness and safety;
• small mass;
• long service life - up to 50 years;
• high thermal insulation characteristics.

The negative aspects of insulation are its high moisture absorption rate and the need to use specialized equipment for installation.

Expanded clay

A natural porous thermal insulator made of clay, which is successfully used to insulate wooden bath ceilings. The main advantages of the material are:

• environmental friendliness and practicality;
• low thermal conductivity;
• durability and safety of use;
• high thermal insulation properties;
• resistance to burning and rotting;
• resistance to damage by fungi, mold and bacteria;
• inertness to high humidity;
• affordable price.

Sawdust with cement and clay

Environmentally friendly insulation for a bathhouse on the ceiling, characterized by accessibility, practicality and safety. It is made from natural ingredients - clay, cement and sawdust, and therefore has high thermal insulation properties. The thermal conductivity of the insulating layer is determined by its thickness and structure density.

The main advantages include:

• environmental friendliness and accessibility;
• resistance to combustion and high temperatures;
• high rate of heat and sound insulation.

Insulation technology

The choice of a suitable method of ceiling insulation is determined design features bathhouse construction - the presence of an attic, attic, flat or pitched roof.

In practice, the following options for insulating a bath ceiling are used:

• Hemmed - for large baths.
• Flooring – for small-sized buildings.
• Panel – for various types designs.

The main requirement for arranging ceiling bases is the presence of properly installed waterproofing and vapor barrier - reliable protection of the insulating material from high humidity.

Flat ceiling

The floor ceiling structure consists of 5 cm thick boards mounted on the bath walls. It is used for buildings with cold roof up to 250 cm wide.

Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof, in which an attic is provided, is carried out using sawdust, clay or expanded clay.

All do-it-yourself ceiling insulation work is carried out step by step as follows:

1. Vapor barrier material (film or roofing felt) is laid overlapping on the ceiling flooring and secured with metal staples or nails.
2. Next, install thermal insulation protection - mineral or basalt wool.
3. If bulk insulation is used - expanded clay, sawdust with cement or clay, an additional edge should be installed around the perimeter of the ceiling surface. Layer thickness bulk insulation is 30 cm.
4. The multilayer structure is covered with waterproofing material - polyethylene film or membrane.
5. Finally, a wooden flooring made of boards or plywood sheets is installed.

false ceiling

The hemming type design ensures the creation of a practical bath ceiling. The boards are mounted to load-bearing floors from inside functional rooms and from the attic.

Multilayer thermal insulation is installed between the floorings. The installation process includes the following steps:

1. A vapor barrier film or membrane is laid on the ceilings with an overlap of 12 cm, overlapping the wall surfaces. The canvases are fixed with thin wooden slats, which are stuffed in compliance with the minimum technological gaps. A double layer of vapor barrier and insulation material is laid over the steam room.
2. Mounted on the ceiling structure to the slats wooden lining, pre-treated with antiseptic impregnation.
3. The load-bearing beams in the attic are insulated with expanded clay, basalt or mineral wool. Thermal insulation is laid in a dense layer without gaps or cracks. The height of the insulating layer is 10 cm.
4. A waterproofing protection is mounted on the heat insulator with an overlap of 12 cm, with the joints tightly sealed.
5. Finally, the installation of wooden flooring from boards or plywood is carried out.

Panel ceiling

A panel ceiling pie is a panel structure made of identical bars interconnected. This is the most complex and labor-intensive type of ceiling base that can be installed in a private bathhouse.

How to insulate a ceiling wooden shields step by step:

1. A board up to 65 cm long is nailed to parallel bars one at a time. The wood is carefully treated with an antiseptic compound. Ledge wooden elements on all sides of the structure is 6 cm. During the joining process, an insulating layer is installed in the gaps formed.
2. A vapor barrier protection is fixed to the inside of the shield with an overlap of 10 cm.
3. The prepared structure is mounted on a lathing installed on the bottom of the ceiling beams.
4. Moisture-resistant thermal insulation is installed in the ceiling panels - mineral wool, basalt wool or expanded clay.
5. Finally, a vapor barrier layer of polyethylene film is installed, which provides reliable protection from steam and high humidity.
6. At the bottom of the ceiling, linden, cedar or aspen lining is mounted to the sheathing.

Insulating a bath ceiling is a responsible process. Using reliable and durable insulation, as well as following the technology of their installation, any bathhouse owner will be able to independently carry out the entire range of insulation work, obtaining a practical structure for comfortable rest and strengthening the body.

The Russian bathhouse is a unique place for relaxing and healing water procedures and communication. Strong immunity, beautiful skin and a body cleansed of toxins - these are the results of constant visits to the bathhouse. However, the effectiveness of bath procedures cannot but depend on the quality insulation of the bath.

Everyone has long been accustomed to the fact that it is necessary to insulate internal surfaces(floors, walls, ceilings) in apartments and houses. However, high-quality insulation of the bathhouse is no less necessary. If in an apartment it is enough to insulate only the walls, then the bathhouse and a private house need careful insulation of the ceiling. The thing is that heated air becomes lighter and rises. If the ceiling is not well insulated, then the hot air will pass directly to the roof and heat the air around the house, which is a waste of heat.

Technology

You need mineral wool Be sure to isolate from water vapor. To do this, it must be covered with a vapor barrier, which must be sealed and waterproof. Today, foil is often used for vapor barrier, taped at the joints with aluminum tape. Among the new products on the construction market are folgoizol, modern material, made on a fiberglass base. In addition, glassine, membrane insulation or ordinary polyethylene film are often used.

The bath ceiling may be:

If the ceiling is false, that is, the boards are hemmed to the floor beams; insulation must be done from the attic side. 2 layers of vapor barrier (glassine, roofing material, etc.), a layer of mineral wool, and again a layer of vapor barrier are laid on the ceiling.

In case of panel ceiling, each panel is covered with a vapor barrier film, mineral wool is laid on it and covered with a vapor barrier. All this is covered with boards.

The easiest way to insulate a flat ceiling. The technology here will be the same as in the case of a false ceiling. To do this, a vapor barrier is rolled out on the boards from the attic side, then a layer of mineral wool 200-250 mm thick is placed on it and completely covered with a vapor barrier. Next, the floor is covered with boards.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among the advantages of insulation with mineral wool you can call it:

• this material almost does not conduct heat and can well insulate a room, including from extraneous sounds;

Everything has its downside, and mineral wool as a material for insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse, unfortunately, was no exception. It has few disadvantages if you compare their number with the number of advantages, but these shortcomings are very significant. Let's look at them:

• mineral wool cannot be crushed or compacted, because the compacted fibers greatly lose their thermal insulation properties;

Technology for insulating bathhouse ceilings with mineral wool

Mineral wool is one of the most inexpensive and reliable materials for insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse. The insulation technology is quite simple, and even a non-professional can handle it.

Insulating a bathhouse ceiling with mineral wool: instructions

Since heat loss through the roof can range from 25 to 40%, insulating the bathhouse ceiling with mineral wool is important stage in the construction of a steam room. During the cold season, the stove will not be able to maintain the temperature at the desired level if the room is not insulated. And condensation on the ceiling will gradually destroy the ceiling. To prevent this, it is necessary to insulate the ceiling with mineral wool from the inside or from the attic.

In the presence of the right tools and materials, all work can be done independently. The main thing is to follow all recommendations and instructions. Thermal insulation can be done different insulation materials. One of these is mineral wool, the features of which will be discussed below.

Insulation review

Very often, mineral wool is used to insulate the ceiling in a private house. This is due to the price/quality ratio. For a low cost, you can get a material with low thermal conductivity, the installation of which is not very difficult to do yourself. Mineral wool consists of blast furnace slag, glass, sand and rocks. The binder is synthetic resins. There are several types of mineral wool:

• slag;
• glass wool;
• basalt wool;
• ecowool, or cellulose.

To know how to properly insulate a ceiling, you need to understand which material is best to choose. The first type tends to quickly absorb moisture, so its use in a bathhouse is impractical. High hygroscopicity leads to loss of thermal insulation properties. The brittle and prickly fibers of slag wool do not allow it to be used indoors. Its only advantage is its low price.

Insulating the ceiling with glass wool is possible, but not advisable. It is fused glass from which thin fibers are drawn. Like slag wool, they are fragile. If it comes into contact with the human body, it may cause irritation to the mucous membrane or skin. This material should be used for thermal insulation from the side of the attic, but not from the inside.

When insulating the ceiling in a private house with mineral wool, as a rule, basalt or stone wool is used. Since it is made from gabbro-basalt, it has plastic fibers. If the thickness of the insulation is less than 10 cm, it is sold in rolls. When the parameter is more than 10 cm, then slabs or panels are formed. They are highly durable and come in different densities. Basalt wool can be used to insulate a room from the inside and outside.

Some manufacturers make panels with a foil layer. If you turn the thermal insulator with this side towards the room, the heat will be reflected from the surface and returned to the room. This will help further retain warm air inside.

Ecowool consists of 80% cellulose, therefore it is considered environmentally friendly. To prevent the material from being subject to destruction under the influence of various bacteria, and in order to reduce flammability, boric and brown acids are added to the thermal insulator. The first protects the insulation from rotting, microorganisms and rodents. Brown acid is a fire retardant, so its use reduces the fire hazard.

All types of cotton wool have high hygroscopicity. However, insulating the ceiling with ecowool is preferable. This is due to the fact that it is able to absorb large amounts of moisture without significantly deteriorating its thermal insulation properties. Minslab will lose 9% in thermal conductivity coefficient with an increase in humidity by 1-2%. Ecowool will add only 2-5% to thermal conductivity with an increase in humidity by 25%.

Thus, insulating the ceiling in wooden house mineral wool is less preferable, since cellulose wool maintains indoor air at comfortable conditions without compromising thermal insulation properties. Since installation is not very complicated, you can do the insulation with ecowool yourself.

The disadvantage of mineral wool is the binder. Resins release chemical compounds into the air that can be harmful to humans. And for laying ecowool you need to use special equipment.

Vapor barrier and waterproofing

Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool cannot be carried out without vapor barrier work. As warm air rises to the ceiling, it penetrates under the sheathing and turns into condensation on the insulation. And this reduces the thermal insulation properties of cotton wool and contributes to the occurrence of fungi and mold. The vapor barrier is designed to protect the insulation and wood floor beams from moisture. In bath rooms it is better to lay foil film.

Waterproofing will help protect the insulation from moisture from the attic. A leak may develop in the roof, or condensation may begin to form in the attic. And so that the insulation does not come into contact with moisture, it is covered with a waterproofing film. To do this, use ordinary polyethylene film, roofing felt or special materials. Vapor and waterproofing must be laid overlapping, and the joints must be glued with regular or reinforced tape.

Insulation technology from the attic side

Mineral wool comes in different thicknesses, and the determining factor is climatic conditions. The thickness of the mineral wool for ceiling insulation must be at least 10 cm. It is laid between the sheathing in a spacer.

Insulation of the attic floor with mineral wool begins with the boards being hemmed to the beams. Thanks to this, the insulation can be placed between the ceilings. If the height of the beams is not enough, slats are attached to them. The layer of mineral wool should be slightly smaller than the width of the slats.

Then the beams, slats and the space between them, into which the heat insulator will be laid, are covered with a vapor barrier film. It needs to be laid with an overlap so that the edges overlap each other by 10-15 cm. The instructions for insulation work provide for sealed layers of hydro- and vapor barrier. Therefore, all joints must be taped with construction tape. TO wooden partitions the material can be secured using a stapler.

Next, mineral wool is laid in the space between the slats. In order for the thermal insulation to be high-quality, the slabs must be tightly fitted to each other. Even small gaps will lead to heat loss.

When the insulation is laid, waterproofing begins. The film is overlapped over the cotton wool. The edges should also overlap 10-15 cm and be sealed with tape. Upon completion of the work, a plank covering is laid on top. In this way, the attic floor is insulated using wooden beams.

Insulation from the room side

It is also necessary to consider how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool from the inside. With this method of thermal insulation it is better to use stone wool. Before insulation from the attic side, the floor beams are covered with waterproofing material. A plank covering is laid on top of it.

After this, the insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool will be carried out indoors. The heat insulator is placed between the beams. If their width is not enough, additional slats are attached. The distance between the beams should be 3-4 cm greater than the width of the insulation boards. This is necessary so that the panels are spaced.

How to insulate the ceiling with mineral wool in an already built bathhouse? To do this, you need to attach guides to the ceiling. The first step is to mark using building level. Mark the lines along which the guides will be installed. The distance between the slats is adjusted to the dimensions of the insulation boards so that the material is tightly fixed between the guides.

The wooden frame is fixed with self-tapping screws every 50-60 cm. Metal slats are attached to special hangers. With their help, you can adjust the distance to the ceiling and fix the insulation, which does not hold tightly, with bent parts.

When the work on laying mineral wool is completed, vapor barrier work begins. The instructions for its installation provide for a sealed coating. To do this, the fabrics must overlap and the joints must be taped. Then on top of it they attach to the beams wooden slats. Decorative lining will be screwed to them.

Only the correct fulfillment of all conditions will ensure high-quality thermal insulation of the room. However, if you have doubts about how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands, or are not confident in your skills, it is better to seek help from professionals.

Insulating a bathhouse ceiling with mineral wool: instructions

Since heat loss through the roof can range from 25 to 40%, insulating the bathhouse ceiling with mineral wool is an important step in the construction of a steam room.

Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool

When building a bathhouse with your own hands, you must not forget about the need to insulate the ceiling, otherwise all the heated air will evaporate outside and the bathhouse will quickly cool down. Insulation is being carried out today different materials, but one of the simplest and most inexpensive options is to use mineral wool. In this article you will learn how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands using mineral wool to winter time steam for pleasure.

How to properly insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse

Minvata is afraid of moisture, so it needs to be isolated from all kinds of fumes. To do this, the insulation is covered with waterproof, hermetically sealed thermal insulation. For vapor barriers, foil materials are best suited, which are glued at the joints with aluminum tape. Folgoizol has a fiberglass base and guarantees high-quality insulation. You can also use membrane insulation, glassine or plastic film.

The bathhouse may have the following types of ceilings that can be insulated with mineral wool:

• Grazing
• Panel
• Hemmed

In a false ceiling, the boards are mounted to the ceiling beams. Insulation with mineral wool should be done from the attic side. Any vapor barrier is laid on the ceiling in 2 layers, on top there is a layer of mineral wool, and then another layer of insulation. The seams in the bath are taped with foil tape. The vapor barrier is made from boards.

Insulation of a floor ceiling in a bathhouse DIY is considered the simplest. A vapor barrier is laid on the attic side. Then comes mineral wool, about 25 centimeters thick. From above everything is covered with a vapor barrier and boards. For a panel ceiling in a bathhouse, the panel is covered with film, mineral wool is laid on the vapor barrier, everything is covered with another layer of film and sewn up with boards.

Advantages of mineral wool for insulation in a bathhouse

Mineral wool practically does not conduct heat, it is safe and environmentally friendly, and at the same time it allows you to isolate the room from extraneous sounds. Another advantage of mineral wool is that insects and rodents do not grow in it, it does not rot, and is not susceptible to mold.

Mineral wool as insulation in a bathhouse can easily withstand mechanical loads and is durable. This insulation material is fireproof, easy to install and has a long service life. When laying it, it should not be compacted or crushed, as this affects the quality of thermal insulation. All possible evaporation of water should be excluded, as this leads to deterioration beneficial properties mineral wool.

The technology for laying mineral wool for insulating a bathhouse is quite simple and does not require specialized skills. An insulated sauna is guaranteed to retain heat for many years, so you can enjoy visiting it with your whole family or friends. Learn on our website and make repairs in the bathhouse and country house yourself.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands using mineral wool

The best materials for insulating a wooden bathhouse in the country. The advantages of mineral wool as insulation for an attic, steam room, country house...

Bath insulation with mineral wool

Those who have their own sauna know how much energy needs to be consumed to achieve the desired temperature in the steam room. In order to save money and time, every effort is made to make the most efficient use of the generated heat. For this purpose, the ceiling, floor and walls of the bathhouse are insulated with mineral wool. This material is not afraid of high temperatures, it is non-toxic and has a fairly low thermal conductivity coefficient.

How to insulate a bathhouse: inside or outside?

External insulation without a ventilation gap is bad.

First, let's figure out when it is necessary to insulate a bathhouse from the inside with mineral wool, and when from the outside. There is a science called heat engineering, which studies the theory of using thermal energy in residential and non-residential premises. Based on this knowledge, certain methods are adopted to reduce heat loss in practice. So, according to the principles of heating engineering, insulation should be carried out from the outside. Thanks to this approach, the dew point shifts to the thermal insulation layer, where there are no conditions for condensation to settle.

Therefore, if there is a technical possibility, then mineral wool for a bath should be laid outside. This applies to both the steam room and other rooms. If this option is not suitable or impossible to implement, then the insulation can be installed from the inside. By the way, in steam rooms this is most often what they do. This is due to the cost of the work.

When insulating a bathhouse from the inside with mineral wool, you save on exterior decoration building. In one of the articles we talked about how to insulate walls with mineral wool from the outside. In short, there are two methods:

• ventilated façade – siding is installed as finishing;
• wet facade - mineral wool is plastered in two layers.

Regardless of which side you place the insulation on, you still need to make lathing from the inside of the room, lay a vapor barrier and cover it all with clapboard. By placing mineral wool on the inside, you save on the cost of exterior sheathing, finishing (siding or plaster) and labor.

In fact, installing a heated towel rail with your own hands is a fairly simple procedure if you know how to pack threads.

In this article we talked about the principle of operation of a heated towel rail in the bathroom.

Which vapor barrier to choose?

Penofol is used as a vapor barrier for a bath.

When using mineral wool for a bath, you need to take into account its tendency to become saturated and retain moisture. Once wet, the insulation ceases to be such, and instead of containing heat, it begins to intensively remove it outside the room. It should be taken into account that in a steam room the humidity is very high and steam can penetrate the thermal insulation, even if it is laid outside. At the same time, the wall will get wet, which is also extremely undesirable. Therefore, the vapor barrier must be installed from the inside of the room on a pre-erected sheathing.

In principle, anyone will do roll material with vapor barrier characteristics that meets the following requirements:

• non-toxic;
• strength;
• resistance to elevated temperatures.

Most often, foil materials, for example, Penofol, are used as a vapor barrier for a bath. This is a two-layer material, which consists of a polyethylene foam pillow and a layer aluminum foil. This reflective insulation, which reflects up to 97% of IR rays, which is especially important in the steam room itself. At the same time, you should not exaggerate the reflective effect of Penofol, and even more so if it is installed incorrectly. If you make a mistake, you will only increase heat loss.

The simplest air recuperator for an apartment is installed directly in the wall. It is able to provide oxygen flow in a small room.

Mineral wool installation methods

The counter-lattice is placed over the vapor barrier on all working surfaces.

We will consider baths with beam ceilings, since this is the most common design. It's rare to find a sauna with concrete ceilings. Let's divide the installation into two groups:

As we have already said, mineral wool for a sauna can be laid on the walls from the outside and from the inside. Methods external insulation of the house we've already looked at, so let's focus on internal works. Moreover, it is cheaper. To begin with, we select the cross-section of the bars for the future sheathing. The height of the beam should be such that the mineral wool lies flush, or even more. The pitch between the guides is three centimeters less than the width of the insulation. The bars are attached perpendicular to the floor.

Mineral wool is placed between the guides. Penofol is stapled on top of the sheathing with the foil inside. Vapor barrier tapes should not overlap; they are placed end to end. The joints must be glued with aluminum-coated tape to create a monolithic mirror. A horizontal counter-lattice is placed on top of the vapor barrier, which is then covered with clapboard.

Penofol on the walls, floor and ceiling must be combined to form a sealed protective layer, like in a thermos.

Insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool and the floor can be combined, since the technique is almost the same. In both cases, the insulation is placed on the rough covering:

• on the subfloor from the inside;
• on the rough ceiling - from the outside from the attic.

There are no tricks here, you just need to lay the required layer of mineral wool flat. Next comes the vapor barrier, which is always placed between the insulation and the heated room. Penofol is placed on the floor on top of mineral wool, the joints are sealed and a counter-lattice is filled for a final finish. With the ceiling, things are different, since not only the thermal insulation, but also the load-bearing beams need to be protected from moisture. Therefore, penofol is attached to the rough ceiling from the inside with the shiny side facing the middle of the room. All this is sealed and a counter-lattice is filled for further finishing.

Why do you need a counter-lattice?

As you may have noticed, a counter-lattice is placed on top of Penofol on all surfaces. It is needed to maintain a buffer air zone, which performs two functions at once:

• allows the foil to reflect IR rays;
• prevents condensation from absorbing into the finish.

In order for Penofol to repel infrared rays, there must be an air gap of at least 15 mm, since IR radiation is transmitted only through air. If the foil touches the finish, heat is transferred directly from one material to another. In this case, aluminum will only speed up the heat exchange reaction, and accordingly, heat loss will be more intense.

Insulation of bathhouse and sauna ceilings from the inside with mineral wool

Mineral wool is used to insulate the ceiling, floor and walls of the bathhouse. It can be installed both outside and inside. A vapor barrier must be used in the sauna.

The only thing worse than not having a bath is a cold bath. Those who do not want to face such a problem in the future think about insulation in advance. This will significantly reduce wood consumption. Before insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse, you need to choose a suitable material for this and carefully study the technology.

When the bathhouse ceiling needs insulation

The laws of physics state that warm air lighter than cold, which means it tends upward. The ceiling restricts this movement, causing it to accumulate in the upper part of the room. Then a lot depends on the thermal conductivity of the ceiling itself. If it is not insulated with anything, it causes a loss of 20% of heat. It is quite possible that for a summer bathhouse with a full firewood rack this is not a problem. In all other cases, you should take care of reducing heat loss and insulate the ceiling yourself.

Insulation is also useful for those who do not want to spend the whole day on the firebox, because it is easier to fill the ladle if it does not leak. It's the same with heat.

Which method to choose for insulation inside and outside the room?

The choice of insulation method is influenced by what is located above the ceiling - cold attic, residential attic or flat roof with a low slope, which leaves minimal attic space. In total, there are only three methods for arranging the ceiling:

• grazing;
• hemmed;
• panel.

Flat ceiling insulated with expanded clay, clay and sawdust

For those who have an attic, but do not want to turn it into a warm warehouse or recreation room, the design of a flat ceiling is suitable. It is considered the simplest, since you are not supposed to walk in the attic, which means there is no need even for floor beams. The rough ceiling is placed on the frame of the building, that is, directly on the walls.

Important! There are limitations associated with this. The boards will withstand a layer of insulation if their length is no more than 2.5 m with a board thickness of 4–5 cm.

Different materials can be used, but the structure of the “pie” is the same in any case. It consists of layers (from top to bottom):

• insulation;
• wax paper;
• boards;
• vapor barriers;
• finished ceiling.

The vapor barrier material must not only be hydrophobic, but also withstand high temperatures, so its choice is limited. Most often, foil is used as a vapor barrier. The last layer is made of expanded clay (slag) or clay with straw.

In the first case, expanded clay is poured in a layer of 20 to 30 cm onto a layer of waxed paper (so that it does not spill through the cracks). This thickness is enough for the thermal insulation properties of this material to manifest themselves. Expanded clay fractions should be taken different so that the small ones fill the voids between the large ones.

Often, before filling, divider boards are placed on the rough ceiling from the attic side.

In the second case, the clay is soaked, and then straw or sawdust is added to it. There is another way. First, a 5 cm layer of clay is laid and allowed to stand for 4 days. Then the cracks are covered with fresh mortar, and a 10 cm layer of oak leaves is placed on top. Then clay again, but dry (5 cm).

On the side of the bathhouse, a vapor barrier is attached to the rough ceiling, which is sealed with metal tape. Next, a sheathing is made, leaving a ventilation gap, on top of which a finished ceiling, for example, made of lining, is mounted.

Each of these insulation materials has one significant drawback: heavy weight.. A rough ceiling will only cope with it if the boards are thick and the span is small. An advantage can be considered the low cost of the material. If desired, the same floor ceiling can be insulated with mineral wool, expanded polystyrene in combination with expanded clay, and ecowool, but their cost is much higher.

You will need:

• tools: stapler, saw, hammer;
• materials: boards, foil, waxed paper, metal tape, galvanized nails, expanded clay.

For a bath measuring 225 by 225 cm, with a layer of expanded clay 30 cm thick, the volume required material equal to 1.5 m 3.

Video: how to insulate a ceiling with expanded clay with your own hands

The sequence of arranging a false ceiling with a vapor barrier

It's more complex design, suitable for those who want to build a second floor in the future. If you plan to walk around the attic and place furniture there, then you need to install floor beams. The false ceiling is made on them.

You will need:

• tools: construction stapler, hammer, saw, knife, tape measure, mallet;
• materials: beams, foil, metal tape, galvanized nails, sheathing slats, tongue and groove boards or lining, insulation, edged boards, membrane or film

To calculate the material you need to know the area of ​​the ceiling, which is divided by standard sizes slab or roll of insulation. If it is bulk, then its volume is calculated: the height of the fill, which depends on the climatic zone, is multiplied by the area. For example:

• room length - 380 cm;
• width - 350 cm;
• layer height bulk insulation- 20 cm.

The volume is 380x350x20 = 2.66 m3.

The ceiling diagram is as follows (from top to bottom):

However, the work is being carried out in a different order. The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. First of all, floor beams are placed on the wall frame.
2. Then they are hemmed with a layer of vapor barrier from below. Typically, foil, a staple gun and metal tape are used for sealing.
3. The vapor barrier is additionally nailed to the beams with slats to create a ventilation gap of 2–3 cm.
4. For finishing For the ceiling, either a good quality tongue-and-groove board or lining is used.
5. After this, the work is moved to the attic, where insulation is laid between the beams on a vapor barrier. Most often, basalt wool is used for this.
6. Waterproofing is placed on top of the insulation. For a bath, a membrane is preferable to polyethylene, because the previous layer must get rid of condensation.
7. Everything is covered with a flooring made of edged boards, which will become the basis of the floor. It is better not to use cement.
8. Finishing the attic floor.

Video: hemming construction technology

How to insulate a panel ceiling

Most difficult option ceiling devices, so it is rarely used in baths. For it you need to make pallets into which the insulation will be placed.

You will need:

• tools: saw, hammer, stapler, knife;
• materials: galvanized nails, foil, mineral wool, bars, boards (in pairs).

A standard mineral wool mat for baths and saunas has dimensions of 60x100 cm with a thickness of 5 or 10 cm. The material is easily cut with a knife, and when laying it can be compressed a little so that it lies more tightly in the spacer. The length of the “pallet” corresponds to the length of the room, the width of its inner part is 50 cm.

Knowing the length and width of the ceiling, for example, 360x360 cm, we can conclude that 6 pallets with a length of 360 cm will have to be made. Each of them will fit 3.6 standard mats (60x100 cm). If the density of the mineral wool is high, it will not be possible to compress it much, so the trimmings will go into “pockets”.

To insulate a panel ceiling measuring 360x360 cm, you will need 22 standard mineral wool mats.

They deserve special consideration. thermal insulation materials. The fact is that not everyone is suitable for a bath. This is due to the increased temperature and humidity in its premises. The steam room is particularly demanding on the insulation material. It should be:

• non-flammable, does not emit a lot of smoke during a fire;
• withstands temperatures over 100 degrees;
• absorbs little water;
• not highlighting toxic substances into the air in any condition.

There is no ideal material; each has its advantages and disadvantages.

All work takes place in several stages:

1. First, on any flat surface (for example, on plywood), a structure is made from new bars and boards 60 cm long.
2. The bars are located at a distance of 50 cm from each other, the boards are nailed with 4 nails perpendicularly. In this case, you need to make an indent of 5 cm from the edge.
3. The result of the work is a shield into which the vapor barrier is laid. It, in turn, needs to be fixed with a stapler. All that remains is to strengthen the shield with temporary jibs, making it easier to carry, and lift it up.
4. At the top, the shields are placed end to end with protruding boards. Due to this, additional voids for insulation are formed.
5. The supports for the shields are the walls of the bathhouse, so they must be the same in length. Insulation (mineral wool or glass wool) is placed inside the panels with vapor barrier. The “pockets” are also insulated. After this, flooring boards are nailed across the boards, on top of which the finishing floor is made.

A panel ceiling is an alternative to a suspended ceiling, since both are used in two-story baths. The owner is free to choose between the labor intensity of the panel and the financial cost of the hemmed one.

It is not advisable to use a panel ceiling in a bathhouse. plastic lining, polystyrene foam and polyethylene film.

Name best insulation difficult. Most often, basalt wool is used to arrange a bathhouse.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of various insulation materials

Name of insulation	Area of ​​application in the bath	Advantages	Flaws
Sawdust	Insulation of the floor ceiling.	Cheap.	Combustible and flammable.
Expanded clay	Insulation of horizontal surfaces - floors and ceilings.	Cheap, easy to install, durable.	Needs increased stability of the foundation and walls of the bathhouse. In some areas, expanded clay with increased radiation is produced. Needs protection from moisture.
Styrofoam	Nowhere.	Cheap, lightweight, easy to install.	Flammable, producing a lot of smoke with harmful substances. Easily spoils.
Expanded polystyrene	One of the layers of thermal insulation of the floor or ceiling (can be laid on top of expanded clay).	There are varieties that can withstand high temperature. Does not get wet, insulates well. It has a small thickness with low thermal conductivity.	Needs leveling of surfaces (this does not apply to polystyrene foam in granules).
Minvata	Everywhere.	Does not burn, withstands high temperatures, easy to install.	During installation and operation, it is partially destroyed and turns into dust, which is harmful to humans, so it can be used for insulation outside rooms. Needs hydro- and vapor barrier.
Ecowool	Everywhere, but with the condition of reliable hydro- and vapor barrier.	Does not burn and does not support combustion. Rodents do not like this material. Environmentally friendly.	Loses its heat insulating properties when moistened, and cakes during long-term use.
Clay	Ceiling insulation.	Cheap, accessible, reliable. Non-flammable and environmentally friendly material.	The same requirements for increased structural stability as expanded clay.
Growing aerated concrete	Uncharacteristic material for insulation.	It seals more than it insulates. 10–12 cm of aerated concrete corresponds to a 30 cm layer of expanded clay.	Reconstruction of the ceiling will cause difficulties. Requires formwork made of glass-magnesium sheets.

Insulation of the ceiling must be carried out during the construction of the bathhouse. Moreover, you can do this yourself if you carefully study the installation technology of various heat-insulating materials.

The article will discuss such a construction task as insulating the ceiling in a Russian bath with mineral wool with your own hands. Private developers often have to deal with a similar question, and detailed explanations will help do everything right.

In a bathhouse, as in a private house, the ceiling is always carefully insulated. In a bathhouse this is even more necessary, since the air heats up intensely and rises. With poor thermal insulation, hot air quickly escapes due to the large temperature difference, and the heat spent on warming up the steam room is wasted.

There will be less hassle if you order ready-made turnkey construction to professionals. But if it has already been built, and the insulation leaves much to be desired, or you are building it on our own- You can insulate the bathhouse ceiling yourself.

Why mineral wool?

Objectively, mineral wool is the best insulation material, although not the cheapest. It has extremely low thermal conductivity, does not burn, and is not affected by rot and insects. Cotton wool is durable, provides good sound insulation, and is harmless to people and pets. In the end, insulating the ceiling in a Russian bath with mineral wool with your own hands does not present any particular difficulties for the “amateur”. You will need a minimum of tools.

Water vapor is deposited on the wool fibers in a damp room, and the wet insulation stops functioning as it should. Therefore, the cotton wool is insulated - foil is used as vapor and waterproofing, connected at the joints with foil tape, glassine, wax paper, foil insulation or simple polyethylene film. In buildings with an attic on the roof side, you can coat the boards with a 2 cm thick layer of high-quality clay.

Typically, rolled basalt wool 10 cm thick is used. It is laid in two layers. Materials must be purchased in advance so that everything you need is at hand before work begins. The technology for forming a ceiling “pie” depends on the type of ceiling.

false ceiling

If edged or tongue-and-groove boards are hemmed underneath the beams, the insulation of the bathhouse ceiling is carried out independently from the attic side. A vapor barrier is placed on top of the sheathing in two layers, in the recesses between the beams. The result is “troughs”, isolated at the bottom and sides. Cotton wool is carefully placed in them, tightly, leaving no gaps, but trying not to crush it. A total thickness of 20-25 cm is required, then the bathhouse will not lose heat at any time of the year.

Finally, the correct ceiling pie in a Russian bath is covered with waterproofing, in the simplest case - with a waterproof polymer film. Vapor and waterproofing must be sealed, the sheets are overlapped with an overlap of 3-5 cm, and the joints are carefully taped with tape if it is foil. So that you can walk on the floor of the attic without damaging the thermal insulation, a subfloor made of unedged boards is placed on top of it.

Panel ceiling

The panels are made in convenient working conditions, then lifted up and laid. Planed boards are laid perpendicular to them on two parallel bars, equal in length to the width of the opening, using nails. The thickness of the boards is 5 cm, length is 60 cm. The distance between internal parties beams - 50 cm, boards protrude 5 cm from the outside beyond their limits.

The inside of the panels is lined with a vapor barrier material, covering, in addition to the boards, also the beams on the sides, and the insulation is secured construction stapler. The panels are lifted up and placed on the walls, hemmed down with boards. Next, the insulation of the bathhouse ceiling is carried out independently, like a false ceiling - a layer of basalt wool is placed in the panels, and the outside is covered with waterproofing.

Boards with a thickness of at least 4 cm are laid on top of the insulating pies. At intervals of one meter there are long ones, the length of which is equal to the width of all the panels combined (for example, 3 meters - 5 panels). Between them lay 60-centimeter ones, on each panel separately, as on the side facing down.

Flat ceiling

Flat ceilings are usually made in bathhouses without attics. No load-bearing beams are needed; the flooring boards are knocked down into a shield and attached directly to load-bearing walls. The vapor barrier is fixed on top with a stapler, mineral wool is laid and covered with waterproofing. Despite its simplicity and cheapness, this method has a significant drawback - the “pie” is not protected from above, and can easily be damaged during repairs or adverse weather conditions. Therefore, it is better to use dense and massive waterproofing material, such as roofing felt. Do-it-yourself insulation of the ceiling in a Russian bath with mineral wool can be considered complete.