A chipping (peeling) plinth, falling off tiles from the porch, cracks in concrete blind area, here are just some examples of the destruction of the so-called "basement structures". There is only one reason for this - a combination of moisture and insufficient frost resistance. Why this happens and how to deal with it, read this article.
Water is the basis of most destructive processes
Rain, snowmelt and groundwater have a significant impact on the condition building structures and their finishes. Moreover, the ability of water to dissolve substances, as well as cause metal corrosion, does not play a significant role here. Its main feature in this case is expansion during freezing. A slight increase in the volume of a drop of water during the transformation into ice can exert significant pressure on the surrounding structures.
This nuance is especially important for tiling porches. Very often you can see brickwork made of clay (red) bricks, tiled on top. Since tile adhesive is applied with a comb, and modern red brick has a ribbed surface at the ends, the presence of cracks and pores under the tile is inevitable. The slightest flaw when grouting the seams - and water will get inside. After the first winter, the tiles will peel off. This can be avoided by preliminary plastering on a metal mesh of all surfaces of the porch, followed by very thorough grouting. In this case, laying tiles is best done either on a continuous layer of glue, or using the smallest comb.
An example of peeling tiles from a porch. The photo clearly shows the gaps between inner surface tiles, mortar and porch body.
The brand for frost resistance of red brick is insufficient. This nature of destruction can be avoided by preliminary plastering with a reinforcing mesh.
Frost resistance
We have previously touched upon the issue of frost resistance. The number of freeze-thaw cycles of the sample, at which it does not lose its properties, determines the frost resistance grade. Hence a simple conclusion - basement structures often do not withstand a sufficient number of freeze and thaw cycles.
Excess water in mortar
Almost all the materials that make up the basement structures require the preparation of a mixture on water. Whether it's concrete, cement-sand mortar or tile adhesive, water is indispensable. The process of hardening dry binders (cement, gypsum) when mixed with water cannot be characterized by the verb "drying". The combination of water and clinker (binder) forms a chemical reaction, as a result of which the growth of microcrystals begins. Growing together with each other, they form a stone-like body from powder and liquid. Obviously, such a reaction requires a certain amount of water.
With its deficiency, full strength will not be achieved, and its excess will evaporate. In the latter case, voids (in fact, micropores) form in place of the evaporated water. In the autumn-spring period, water enters them, which, upon subsequent freezing, turns the micropores at the beginning into microcracks, and then, with each subsequent freeze-thaw cycle, cracks grow in the body of the structure.
Appearance example reinforced concrete structure subjected to freeze-thaw cycles.
The question of the exact dosing of water during the preparation of the mixture is not as simple as it seems. The exact amount can only be measured for ready-made building mixtures. They are supplied not only with instructions that indicate the required amount of water, but also remain in a dry state. However, the most widespread are concrete and cement-sand mortar. They include sand, the moisture content of which at the time of preparation of the mixture is unknown, and in fact the required amount of water added to the composition strongly depends on it.
But even by accurately measuring the moisture content of the sand, it is hardly possible to prepare an ideal mixture - the resulting mobility, the consistency of the solution (convenient for working with it) at the optimal water-cement ratio may be unacceptable for this type of work. Almost always it will be such for performing a screed. Too thick composition is also inconvenient to plaster. However, you should refrain from adding water! Improving the plasticity of the solution should be achieved by the introduction of special plasticizer additives. They reduce the friction forces between the fractions of the composition and without excess water will allow you to qualitatively perform the required type of work.
Strength grade, iron plating, fiberglass
The notorious frost resistance grade is closely related to the strength grade. Therefore, solutions of a sufficiently high grade should be used for basement structures. We analyzed the definition of the required indicators for concrete earlier. For cement-sand mortars you should be guided by the table of conformity of the concrete strength class to the brand. That is, having determined the required class of concrete, we look at what grade of strength for the solution corresponds to it and take it as a guideline.
Plinth structures are regularly subjected to freeze-thaw cycles, therefore, underestimation of the strength / frost resistance grade will inevitably lead to partial destruction over time. Particularly high requirements in this regard are put forward to the surface layer, it is most vulnerable due to direct contact with water. To strengthen it, you can apply the method of ironing (it can be dry and wet).
Its essence lies in grouting with dry cement (or a special compound according to the manufacturer's instructions) the surface to be strengthened. The surface is preliminarily slightly wetted, then a shell layer of pure cement is applied with an ordinary plaster trowel. It not only strengthens the surface, but also takes on possible excess water. In the event that there was not enough water for the final cake, the structure itself “gets” it over time by absorbing moisture from the air / soil during the first rain or intentional humidification from a hose. The latter, by the way, is highly undesirable to do with strong pressure in the first week of the concrete / mortar life. Weakly strengthened upper layer may be damaged by splashing water. Loss of moisture during strength development should be excluded by covering the laid composition with a film, and cracks in the screed that often appear for the first time on the very first day are just a consequence of shrinkage due to excess water. If necessary, spray nozzles should be used.
Positive results are obtained by introducing fiber into the composition of the mixture. It provides dispersed micro-reinforcement, increasing resistance to cracking.
Insulation, impregnation
Another method of combating the destruction of "basement structures" is isolation. Moreover, it can be not only “hydro”, but also “heat”. By eliminating any of the factors in the water-freezing chain, structures can be protected.
An excellent example of this approach is the insulation of the basement with extruded polystyrene foam. This material not only insulates well, but is also hydrophobic (does not absorb moisture).
Another method of protecting basement structures should include impregnation with special penetrating compounds (for example, Penetron). The essence of their action is to fill the pores in the structure and form a waterproofing film on the surface.
High-quality finishing of the basement of the house with tiles also isolates it from the effects of water.
The basement protects the walls of the building from the penetration of ground moisture into them and, as a result, their destruction. But what will the base itself protect? Surely this is a well-done house basement finish , which only secondarily performs decorative functions, and in the first place - a protective role. It is this issue that we will deal with in the current article, in which, together with the site stroisovety.org, we will take a closer look at how to properly clad the basement of a building so that it is completely protected from aggressive influences. environment and also had an attractive appearance.
Finishing the basement of the house: how to do waterproofing
Oddly enough, but before proceeding to the immediate finishing Houses , it is necessary to execute it waterproofing . For what? The answer is still the same - protection from moisture, which can seep not only through the ground, but also through the seams facing material. In general, the waterproofing of the basement should be carried out at the stage of construction, but, as a rule, everything is limited to the insulation of only its underground part, which is mainly performed with roofing material or bituminous mastic. In fact, these materials interfere with further finishing the basement of the house , and they seem to be ignored, or at best they are released 10–15 cm above the ground level. In principle, this is quite enough to protect the foundation from destruction, but not the basement of the building.
Finishing the basement of the house do-it-yourself stone photo
WITH house basement waterproofing things are a little different - roofing material, bituminous mastic and similar materials will not work here. Almost all materials for house basement finishes require a different type of foundation - therefore, the requirements for waterproofing the basement of the building are slightly different.
As a rule, for house basement waterproofing cement-based solutions are used - if we talk about the notorious trademark Ceresit, then its similar products are referred to as: Ceresit CR 65 or Ceresit CR 66. There are also special waterproofing primers Ceresit CE 50 and Ceresit CE 49 mastics, made on the basis of epoxy resins. In general, there are no problems with these materials, and you can use any materials that you like in terms of price and quality.
If we talk about the technology of waterproofing works, then no problems should arise here either. Primers and mastics are applied with a brush - they are simply rubbed into the surface previously cleaned of dust and dirt. But cement mortars (like CR 65) are applied with a spatula - such protection is applied to the basement of the building in two layers, each of which must dry completely. Moreover, each of the applied layers of waterproofing must be applied in different directions- if the first layer was applied from top to bottom, then the second should be laid from left to right. Unfortunately, this is the nature of this material.
In general, direct house basement finish stone, tile or any other material can be carried out only after the waterproofing has completely dried. In this regard, primers and mastics are more practical - not only are they applied in one layer, they also dry faster. The plinth covered with a waterproofing primer or mastic can be finished the very next day decorative material- in the case of cement-based waterproofing, it will not be possible to continue work earlier than after a couple of days.
How to waterproof the basement at home photo
How to decorate the basement at home: materials for finishing the protruding part of the foundation
Materials with which modern builders can perform finishing the basement of the house , quite a lot - these include natural and artificial stone, siding, special facade panels, tile, clinker brick, bassoon and even ordinary or decorative plaster. In principle, this list can be continued and continued, but there is little point in this - all the same, the finishing of the basement with these materials is almost identical.
By technology house basement finishes all materials can be divided into two groups - which require a frame for their installation and which do not need it. TO frame materials include all kinds of siding, fiber cement and other panels, for the installation of which you will need to arrange metal carcass. If we talk about such materials in more detail and consider their installation technology, then one feature can be noted regarding preliminary stage waterproofing - here the choice of insulating materials is not limited. Suitable and bitumen, and roofing material, and similar materials.
The disadvantage of this option house basement finishes is the high cost of the materials themselves and the work associated with their installation. For example, fiber cement panels are by far one of the most expensive materials, and its main advantage is durability.
Finishing the basement of the house
photo
In financial terms, the most profitable material for the plinth is all kinds of tiles, clinker bricks and stone of artificial or natural origin. The advantage of these materials lies in a fairly simple installation technology - for example, house basement finish artificial, or even fairly easy to do on your own. The same can be said for tiles and clinker brick- knowing the technology of working with tiled material, it will not be difficult to veneer the foundation with any similar products.
Materials for house basement finishes
Additional protection of the tiled plinth of the house
As they say, there is a blessing in disguise - having protected the basement of the building, it is also necessary to protect the cladding itself from the ubiquitous moisture. No matter how ridiculous it may look, but such a situation really is the place to be. The fact is that rain and melt water, flowing down the walls of the house, can flow and be absorbed into the solution or adhesive composition, with which the plinth was finished natural stone or anything else.
As a rule, either the same finishing material or special cornices made of painted galvanized steel are used as such protection. If you deal with the quality of such protection, then it is better to give preference to galvanized steel - it is more reliable. If the seams between finishing material moisture can still seep in, but under the cornices, in principle, it is not able to penetrate.
Cornice on the basement of the house photo
The cornices are fastened as follows - first, a cut is made in the wall with a depth of 1.5–2 cm to the width of the disc of the grinder, into which the bend of the cornice is inserted. After that, the cornice itself is attached to the wall with dowels, and the cut slot is sealed with sealant. If you correctly dock the individual cornices, then
Plinth waterproofing
The plinth is the space between the main walls and the foundation. In most cases, this part of the building is built of brick, which absorbs moisture very well. Moisture from the soil destroys brick plinth, so it is very important to protect it with waterproofing materials.
What is the need for a hydrobarrier between the foundation and the brickwork of the basement
The main purpose of waterproofing between brickwork and the foundation is to prevent capillary rise in moisture and protect the main structural elements from destruction. There are several reasons why waterproofing is a must.
Freezing and destruction of walls
If you do not isolate the junction line between the brick and the concrete foundation, then the moisture from the concrete will get into the pores of the brick. In winter, when freezing, the volume of moisture becomes greater and the destruction of the brick from the inside occurs. Several cycles of freezing and thawing make the brickwork less durable, so cracks appear in the walls of the basement over time.
Efflorescence on the surface
Groundwater is characterized by a high salt content, and the lack of waterproofing contributes to their entry from the foundation into the brickwork. Periodic increase and decrease in temperature causes the growth of salt crystals inside the brick, and in the process of getting wet and drying, salt deposits come to the surface brickwork. Elevations not only spoil the appearance of the structure, but also have a destructive effect on the material. As a result, the building structure is deformed.
High humidity inside the building
The lack of waterproofing between the foundation and the brick base causes moisture to enter the main walls of the house. In this case, the humidity in the premises rises, the smell of dampness appears and living becomes uncomfortable. Moreover, it deteriorates interior decoration leading to unscheduled repairs.
The appearance of fungus and mold
constant dampness and wet walls are a favorable environment for the reproduction of harmful microorganisms.
Fungus and mold on the walls can be perceived as a visual disadvantage, but they also cause damage. great harm health. Their spores enter the respiratory tract and cause a decrease in immunity and acute respiratory diseases.
Waterproofing brick basement
To protect the plinth, made of brick, vertical and horizontal waterproofing is used.
Vertical waterproofing
In this case, moisture-proof materials are applied to side surfaces the upper part of the foundation, the basement and the lower rows of brickwork of the main wall. This allows you to protect the joints between these parts of the structure from moisture penetration.
Vertical protection is performed in several ways:
- Coloring. We previously wrote about . Such waterproofing involves the application of special varnishes or paints to the surface. The advantage of this method is the simple execution of work and high-quality surface protection, despite the thin layer of moisture-resistant material. Such waterproofing also has disadvantages, this is a regular update of waterproofing due to the short service life of this method.
- Coating waterproofing. This method involves the use of thick bituminous compositions, solutions based on liquid glass or special cement-containing mixtures. They are applied to the surface with a layer, the thickness of which is selected individually. As a result, a moisture-resistant membrane or an impenetrable crust is formed on the surface.
- Impregnating waterproofing. In this case, solutions based on liquid polymers or synthetic resins are used, which are able to penetrate deep into the brick structure. Getting into the pores building material, the composition crystallizes and creates a reliable barrier that prevents the penetration of moisture. In this case, on the surface of the material, an additional protective film. The penetration of such waterproofing into the material reaches 20-25 cm. The advantage of moisture-resistant impregnation is the neat appearance of the surface, which avoids additional finishing of the basement.
- Roll waterproofing. The popularity of this method is at a high level, which is explained by the presence of some advantageous points. Among them, reliability and durability are of great importance. Read the detailed article from step by step instructions About, .
Horizontal waterproofing
The main function of horizontal protection is to prevent capillary penetration of moisture from the foundation to the plinth and from the plinth to the main walls.
In most cases, ruberoid is used for this purpose. The material is laid in two layers with an overlap of 10-15 cm, using three methods:
- canvases waterproofing material laid on the horizontal surface of the plinth or foundation and pressed in several places with heavy objects so that the material is not blown away by gusts of wind.
- Sheets of roofing material are glued to the surface with bituminous mastic or molten bitumen.
- The surface of the roofing material is heated gas burner, as a result of this, the bituminous layer melts. Then the sheets are glued to the surface to be protected and glued together.
Waterproofing with bitumen
Bitumen can be called the cheapest and most reliable waterproofing material. To protect the brickwork of the base with it, you must perform the following steps:
- The surface to be treated is leveled and cleaned as much as possible.
- Pieces of bitumen are heated in a large container and brought to a fluid consistency.
- With the help of a brush or roller, molten bitumen is applied to the surface of a foundation or a brick base.
- For greater reliability, hydro insulating material applied several times.
The use of liquid rubber
The advantage of this waterproofing material is high-quality adhesion to the protected surface. After processing, a continuous, seamless layer is formed on the surface, providing a high degree of protection.
Processing is carried out in the following order:
- The surface is well cleaned.
- Apply a deep penetration primer.
- Using a spatula or roller, a waterproofing material is applied.
Ways to eliminate possible errors
Very often, novice developers neglect waterproofing between the foundation and the brickwork of the basement, but after a while this mistake has to be corrected. There are two ways to solve the problem, one of which is costly, but simpler. Another method does not require large investments, but its implementation takes a long time.
In the first case, the areas between the foundation and the brickwork of the basement are injected with a special composition that penetrates deep from pores, microcracks and voids. The result is a reliable waterproof barrier. For such waterproofing, do the following:
- Under a slight slope, special channels are drilled to a depth of more than half of the brickwork.
- Under pressure, cement-polymer mixtures or sealing gel-like masses are introduced into the holes obtained.
Another method involves the partial dismantling of the masonry at the junction of the foundation and the basement. To implement it, do the following:
- In one of the sections, a small fragment of brickwork is removed.
- A waterproofing fiberglass layer is laid on the foundation surface.
- The removed bricks are returned to their place.
- Fill the seams with masonry mortar.
- Work on the next section will start in about 20 days.
Building a house requires a lot of effort, patience and attention at every stage. Waterproofing the brickwork of the plinth helps to maintain the aesthetic appearance of the external surface and protect the plinth and the main walls of the building from the damaging effects of moisture.
After finishing the basement of the house, you should also think about protecting the cladding itself, because water will certainly accumulate on the protruding part, which will lead to a gradual destruction of the structure. A basement tide will help protect this part of the building.
Plinth types
Scheme of a protruding plinth in a wooden house
In relation to the outer walls, the plinth can be protruding, sinking, or be in the same plane with them. The most reliable - sinking plinth. The building box hanging over it perfectly protects the waterproofing layer laid between the basement and the walls. But from an aesthetic point of view, this option is not the most successful, and therefore it is used relatively infrequently by architects. The more popular solution is the location of the facades flush with the plinth. However, in this case, the outer edge of the waterproofing material remains open.
The most common option is houses (especially wooden cottages) with protruding plinth. However, in this case, the base is the least protected from temperature extremes, rain and snow, which have a destructive effect on this structural element building. That's why jutting out outer wall the horizontal plane must be closed with a low tide that removes atmospheric moisture from the basement.
What can you make an "umbrella" for the base?
If the house is sheathed with vinyl siding, the plinth is protected with the same material as the facade. More precisely, they use a special element - basement vinyl molding. Its width can be different - 4, 5, 7, 10 cm, but almost all companies have the same color - white, which, of course, somewhat limits design possibilities when using such products. The cost of plastic ebbs 3.6-3.8 m long is 150 rubles.
For plinth protection wooden houses quite often used metal ebbs. They are made of cold-rolled galvanized steel with one of the polymer coatings - polyester, pural, plastisol, PVP. Ebbs 2 m long and 7 cm wide with a pural coating will cost 200-380 rubles, from plastisol - 420 rubles. Pural, according to experts, is the most resistant to mechanical damage and to bloom.
The plinth of timber or log houses is sometimes trimmed with wooden planks, replacing them traditional materials. However, it should be borne in mind that no matter what compositions such ebbs are treated with, they will not last more than 5-6 years. Alas, wood and moisture are not allies, but enemies
If the roof is made of copper, you can use this material for the basement ebb. Such products are made only to order and cost an average of 1500 rubles per linear meter. m.
If the walls of the house are plastered, fully or partially (only the basement) is lined artificial stone, then the best solution would be to use pouring out of artificial stone. Such elements allow both to protect the plinth and to properly design the facade. Similar products available from a number of companies. They have the surface of a rough chipped stone, are available in different colors (white, sand, light brown, dark brown). Outflow dimensions: length 62.5 cm, width 4.5 cm. Price - 270 rubles / piece.
All building structures are exposed to aggressive moisture. The greatest load falls on the foundation, because. it goes into the ground at least 1 meter. Atmospheric, flood, groundwater also destroys the basement that separates the base of the house from the walls. This part of the building is designed to protect load-bearing structures. From her resilience to external factors the service life of the entire building depends, therefore, thorough waterproofing of the basement is necessary.
Protective measures can be taken with various types insulators. The choice depends on the materials from which the structure is built, operating conditions. It is important to consider the level and degree of mineralization ground water. Chemical substances, dissolved in water, provoke corrosion. Constantly affecting the foundation and basement, they cause unscheduled repairs, which leads to an increase in the cost of building maintenance.
Why waterproofing the basement from the inside and outside
For the construction of the foundation, special blocks (FBS) are most often used. They initially contain additives that protect the material from moisture. However, concrete itself has a porous structure, due to which it tends to absorb and pass water.
Residential building with basement
When moisture hits the surface of the structure, it quickly seeps in, then penetrates to the reinforcement and destroys the metal. In this case, the concrete is impregnated with moisture, there is chemical reaction leading to its loosening. A monolithic structure becomes even more porous, begins to crack and crumble.
The basement of the building is needed to slow down the destruction processes, but it is also exposed to moisture. The only way to prevent it is to take protective measures. Moreover, waterproofing of the basement is needed not only from the outside, but also from the inside.
If materials are chosen incorrectly or work is performed poorly, the operation of the building will turn into one never-ending repair. Hydro and thermal insulation of the basement is best done at the stage of building a house. If necessary, the activities are repeated. It is also desirable to arrange drainage system on the site, take care of the drainage of water from the building.
Ways to protect the base from moisture
There are horizontal and vertical basement waterproofing. The purpose of both protection methods is to prevent building materials from getting wet, capillary suction of water from the atmosphere, and cut off groundwater and flood waters. The difference lies only in the technology of applying materials.
Scheme: two ways to protect against moisture
Vertical waterproofing is equipped by applying insulators to the walls of the basement. It can be coating, gluing, impregnating materials. Horizontal waterproofing of the plinth is carried out by laying a water-repellent layer of rolled insulator.
For high-quality protection, both methods must be used. The joints of horizontal and vertical waterproofing are also carefully sealed to prevent moisture from entering through the seams. If the work is carried out qualitatively, the materials will last for many years.
Basement horizontal waterproofing device
For the arrangement of horizontal moisture protection, traditional materials are used - roofing felt, roofing material or euro roofing material. They are laid in two layers: about 20 cm from the blind area and on top of the basement structure. This method of arrangement involves a large consumption of material, but saving in this case is irrational.
It is not necessary to lay only one layer of insulation in front of the plinth, because. reliable protection from groundwater is no less important than isolation from precipitation. Rain and snow cause wetting of building structures less often than groundwater and capillary moisture.
Technologies of vertical moisture protection
Vertical protection involves the application of insulating materials from the outside to the basement walls. As insulators, mastics based on bitumen are used, liquid glass, painting, roll materials. Lots of options. When choosing, you should focus on the features of the building, needs, financial capabilities and plans of the owner of the house.
Each of the materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. A budget option- bituminous mastic. It perfectly protects structures, adheres to all types of bases. However, the insulator does not tolerate mechanical stress well and may crack at low temperatures.
A cheaper option is special hydrophobic varnishes, but they are less reliable. Roll materials will cost a little more and are not suitable for all operating conditions. In some cases, it makes sense to seek the advice of a specialist, because. developing a waterproofing project in complex geographical and geological conditions requires skills and experience.
For waterproofing a brick basement, you can use finishing with waterproof materials - artificial stone, mosaic, porcelain stoneware, siding. If the cladding is not planned, the walls of the basement are coated with liquid rubber, mastic, pasted over roll materials. Good result gives a combination of several types of insulation.
Vertical waterproofing
How to close cracks and cavities with your own hands
Waterproofing works Start with surface preparation. The first step is to close up the joints of blocks, cracks, cavities. To do this, use the usual cement mortar. The next stage is the priming of the entire structure, which is subject to waterproofing.
As a primer, you can use a ready-made primer industrial production Or make your own solution. For 10 liters of homemade primer, 200-300 g of bitumen and 10 liters of gasoline will be required. The solution must be used immediately after heating and mixing, because. it quickly thickens and loses its properties.
Sometimes, instead of a gasoline-bitumen mixture, ordinary resin is used. It's not the best the best choice, because after drying, the coating may burst at the slightest external influence. Great option – bituminous mastics. The primed surfaces become smooth, insulators adhere well to them.
Applying a primer to the plinth
What is needed for basement waterproofing
Perfect option foundation basement waterproofing is an application combined materials. So, coating insulation perfectly complements pasting. Ruberoid, roofing felt or Aquaizol are heated and overlapped on a layer of bituminous material, pressed and air bubbles are removed from under the sheets.
If necessary, the basement can be insulated. For this, extruded polypropylene is suitable. Sheets of material are glued onto liquid nails, and cold bridges at the joints are insulated construction foam. Then it remains only to execute outer cladding.
Rolled insulating material Aquaizol
Video to help the self-taught master
Features of the internal moisture protection of the base
The external waterproofing of the basement does not provide one hundred percent protection, therefore, it is necessary to process the walls from the inside. It is especially important to achieve reliable isolation buildings built in areas high level occurrence of groundwater, as well as in houses where the basement is used as utility room, garage, gym.
Materials for internal waterproofing must be such that they can later be mounted finishing- panels, tiles or plaster. The best option- penetrating compounds. They are easy to apply, do not change the surface of the bases and strengthen their structure, preventing shedding.
Penetrating waterproofing is deeply absorbed into wet concrete and crystallizes. The resulting hydrophobic compounds seal the pores of the material. Useful property of such compositions lies in the fact that when moisture enters the crystals, they only become stronger and better clog microcracks.
Applying penetrating waterproofing agents is very easy. Concrete surfaces are abundantly moistened with water, after which the compositions are rubbed with a roller or brush. Dry concrete should be at least three days, regularly wetting it to achieve the best crystallization.
The disadvantage of penetrating waterproofing is one, but very significant. Ingredients can only be used on concrete surfaces. They are not suitable for use with other materials. For walls made of brick, stone, blocks apply liquid rubber, membranes. Special attention when waterproofing surfaces, give seams and joints. They are additionally treated with the same insulators or pasted over with geomembranes.
Scheme of action of penetrating materials
After finishing waterproofing and finishing works stack drainage pipe. It should be below the level of the base. Where the structure is in contact with the ground, blind areas are equipped. For them use concrete mortar. Blinds are made around the entire perimeter of the building. The joints are sealed with mastic.
