Manufacturers offer wide choose plumbing. Each model has its own and imposes certain requirements on the installation procedure. Do-it-yourself installation of a toilet bowl is possible, but subject to the manufacturer's recommendations. We invite you to familiarize yourself with existing species, the order and features of the performance of work, so that self-assembly was carried out in accordance with regulatory requirements.
In order to correctly place the key ones, you should prepare a drawing on a scale on which the plumbing will be located taking into account sanitary and hygienic standards. You can create a comfortable layout by adhering to the following recommendations:
- The area in front of the toilet must be at least 60 cm long;
- On the sides of the toilet, a free space of at least 25 cm wide should be provided;
- In front of the sink, the platform should not be already 70 cm;
- Bidet and toilet should be fixed at a distance of at least 35 cm;
- it is worth fixing at a height of 60 ÷ 80 cm above the floor surface, and - 95 cm.
The recommendations given are relevant for those for which it is enough to adhere to standard norms, principles of practicality and comfort. In apartment buildings, the arrangement of plumbing is regulated by SNiP, which are developed taking into account the safe operation of communications. When planning to do the installation yourself, you should definitely familiarize yourself with the indicated standards.
The basics of choosing the right toilet for your home
When choosing the right model, you should take into account the features. Worthy of attention:
- The area of \u200b\u200bthe room, affecting the dimensions of the purchased plumbing;
- The presence, geometric parameters and location of the external. Consider how far it will be from the intended installation site of the toilet bowl;
- The location of the sewer pipe;
- Release angle. The best option is the installation of a model with an oblique outlet. If the measurement shows a slight match, you should purchase a special adapter together with the plumbing - a drain corrugation.
Manufacturers offer plumbing fixtures of various configurations, which have their own mounting features. The division can be made on the floor and mounted models. To install the latter, you need less space and they have a more attractive appearance. This is the right choice for . Floor models are more reliable and practical.
- hammer;
- drill (perforator);
- yardstick;
- marker for marking;
- wrench or set;
- pliers;
- screwdriver.
It is also worth preparing:
- FUM tape;
- flexible hose;
- corrugation;
- silicone sealant with a gun.
Removing an old toilet
When dismantling, you should follow the instructions in accordance with which the installation of new plumbing was previously carried out. Do-it-yourself toilet replacement begins with the following work:
- shut off the water supply drain tank;
- drain the water inside the tank;
- unscrew the fastener of the tank. With a large thickness lime deposits or the presence of rust is to fix the bolt head with a screwdriver and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench;
- removing the barrel tank, unscrew the fasteners that fix the product;
- disconnect the drain from the sewer pipe. If cement coating was previously used during installation, cement is chipped off with a chisel;
- drain the rest of the water from the toilet and set it aside.
Advice! After dismantling, the sewer pipe hole should be closed with a cloth stopper to prevent it from clogging.
Preparing a new toilet for installation
Having decided to do the installation yourself, you should figure out how to assemble the toilet. The structure of any model includes two components: a bowl and a drain tank. At the preparation stage, these parts should be connected to each other using the fasteners included in the delivery.
First, collect the drain tank. For this, it is set drain mechanism and float. As a rule, the installation of the drain mechanism does not cause difficulties, since it is initially supplied assembled. It is inserted into a special mounting hole at the bottom and fixed with a plastic nut, on which a rubber seal is prudently put on. The cistern is attached to the toilet bowl using metal studs and nuts.
Attention! Rubber seals should be used in all connections.
DIY toilet assembly video will allow you to better understand the sequence of work:
How to install a conventional toilet with your own hands?
After the plumbing is assembled, it is worth clarifying how to install the toilet with your own hands. The work can be done in the following sequence:
| Photo | Description of works |
 | We mark and drill mounting holes in the floor. |
 | We remove the formed dirt and dust. |
 | We hammer plastic dowels into the prepared holes. |
 | We install the toilet bowl at the place of future operation and fix its spatial position with the help of bolts. |
If you have not yet figured out how to do the installation yourself, the toilet installation video will help you learn all the main steps:
Installing a toilet with a hidden cistern
Models with hidden tanks allow you to more efficiently manage the available space. They are easy to care for and look stylish. Installing a built-in toilet can be done in different ways. We offer you to familiarize yourself with the available methods and features of the work.
Installing a wall hung toilet with installation
To begin with, it is worth deciding on the model of plumbing. Its geometric parameters will affect the requirements for the mounted system. Hanging installation can be performed in the following sequence:
| Photo | Description of works |
 | Frame height is adjustable. |
 | Installing the toilet installation in a metal profile 50 mm wide and screwing it to the floor through special mounting holes. |
 | mounted frame system to which will be attached. |
 | Finishing material is attached. |
 | On seat silicone sealant is applied. |
 | The nozzles included in the delivery set are inserted into the mounting holes. |
 | The toilet bowl is hung and fixed with the fasteners included in the delivery. |
 | The water connection is made in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. |
Related article:
If you know the state of the art, it will be easier to check the value of different sales offers. The information from this article will be useful when performing installation operations with your own hands and for monitoring the actions of professional teams. In particular, they will help to agree correctly when determining the cost of the services of contractors.
Installation of floor models
Instead of hinged model you can install a floor with a hidden tank. A large assortment allows you to choose the right option for the toilet in any style.
The technology in this case includes the following steps:
| Photo | Description of works |
 | A niche is being prepared in which the tank will be installed. |
 | Do-it-yourself installation of a toilet bowl inside a niche and fixing it. |
 | Performed final finishing walls, and plumbing is installed in a dedicated place. |
The main types of toilet bowl fasteners to the floor
Fastening to the floor can be carried out in different ways:
- On installed in the screed. The hardware is placed in places corresponding to the attachment points of the floor bowl, and then the screed is poured. A rather complicated option, which can be difficult to implement with your own hands without the help of specialists. Insufficient length of the anchors can lead to the fact that after installing the toilet it will be difficult to put the nut on;
- On a wooden base, the geometric parameters of which must correspond to the dimensions of the installed plumbing. Nails are first driven into the board, laid on the floor with nails down, and a screed is poured. During the installation process, the toilet is “sit down” on epoxy glue and screwed to the wooden base with ordinary screws;
- On dowels. So most often the toilet is installed on a tiled floor. After installing the product at the place of future operation, the mounting holes are marked. Their depth should be sufficient to fix the bowl in place. For reliable fastening, the installation of the bowl can be done on epoxy resin and add a certain amount of sealant to the mounting holes.
Advice! To prevent cracking of the toilet bowl during installation, gaskets should be used during installation.
The main types of toilet bowl fasteners to the wall
Depending on the design features specific model you can install the toilet with your own hands using:
- frame structure, which is a rigid frame attached to the wall and floor. The tank and pipes can be located behind a false wall;
- block system. A more affordable and compact option that involves installation exclusively on a main wall. Installation is carried out in a specially prepared niche, which is then laid with bricks or blocks.
The main types of connecting the toilet to the sewer
To connect the system to the sewer, various adapters are used. Each species has its distinctive features. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the main varieties in order to have an idea of options.
Fan pipe or plastic pipe
If you decide to use an adapter, you need to know exactly the characteristics of the model that you plan to install yourself. When choosing suitable option Special attention should be given to the shape of the release of the toilet bowl.
Products with an oblique outlet are mounted on the floor, with a vertical outlet - on the wall, placing the nozzle at a right angle. With an oblique outlet, it is permissible to install a “wall”, placing the connecting pipe under acute angle. When replacing plumbing, you should purchase a model with a similar release, otherwise the use of adapters becomes impossible.
Attention! When using a plastic outlet or a fan pipe, it is unacceptable to change the geometric shape of the product.
Eccentric
When using an eccentric collar, according to experts, it is not necessary to ensure the tightness of the connection with a sealant. At correct location special rubber seals can achieve a secure and tight fit of the mating elements. If the pipes are cast iron, it is still worth using a sealant.
Corrugation
Corrugated pipe (corrugation) is used when other materials do not allow to cope with the task. How to install corrugation on the toilet? After fixing the system, work is performed in the following sequence:
- One end of the corrugation is placed in the sewer hole. The joint must be lubricated with silicone sealant;
- The second end is put on the outlet of the toilet;
- Check the tightness of the connection.
Connecting the bathroom to the sewer is done in three ways. Each of them has its own characteristics. We offer you to find out how you can connect the toilet to the sewer and choose the most suitable option.
Bathroom with vertical outlet
Vertical outlet models are especially popular in European countries. The design of such plumbing products implies the presence of a siphon located in the bowl and an outlet pipe, which is directed downward during installation. This design is universal, and toilets with a vertical outlet can be installed at any angle to the vertical.
Do-it-yourself toilet installation is performed in the following sequence:
- Marking is carried out on the floor;
- A screw flange with a locking device is installed;
- A sewer pipe is mounted in the center of the flange;
- The toilet bowl is mounted on a flange;
- The outlet pipe is fixed.
Bathroom with horizontal outlet
These products are sometimes referred to as direct outlet toilets. It is most widely used in Russia. Such products have a release pointing backwards. It is connected to the sewer pipe using a special cuff.
Models with a horizontal outlet are most often attached to the floor. The manufacturer provides special connecting holes that allow you to attach the toilet to the floor. Dowels or standard screws are most often used as fasteners.
Advice! Tighten fasteners carefully so as not to damage the product.
Toilet bowl with oblique outlet
A toilet with an oblique outlet can be connected as follows:
- Cleans the socket of the cast-iron semi-outlet from the old seal and debris;
- The toilet bowl is installed on the layer;
- Excess cement paste is squeezed out. It must fill the semi-outlet socket by at least 2 cm.
This method is currently used quite rarely, since the dismantling of equipment is quite difficult. Most often, preference is given to regular anchor screws. However, some cement paste may be placed under the bottom of the toilet to compensate for the unevenness.
In some cases, silicone sealant can be used instead of cement paste. However, with a significant or uneven load, the sole of the product may crack.
Then, using a sealing sleeve, the outlet is connected to the cast-iron socket without displacement. It can be used to compensate for existing horizontal or vertical misalignment. To ensure maximum tightness, silicone sealant is preliminarily applied to the outer surface of the coupling.
Connecting water to the toilet bowl
To provide a supply tap water to the drain tank, you can use one of the following methods:
- Bottom eyeliner. Such models create a minimum of noise in the process. However, in the event that during the installation process it was possible to ensure sufficient tightness;
- Side eyeliner. They are easy to install. Do-it-yourself installation may turn out to be the best choice because of the ease of operation. Creates a lot of noise in the process of taking water into the tank. Some models come with a longer pouring stroke to reduce the amount of noise generated;
- Flexible eyeliner. In a similar way, models are most often connected in which the tank is located above the bowl;
- Hard eyeliner. Such a system can last a long time.
Connection for all types of hoses is performed in the following sequence:
- A separate tap is installed, with which you can shut off the water supply. The insert must be made in accordance with all the rules;
- One end of the liner is connected to the tap and fixed with a special nut;
- The second end is connected to the drain tank and fixed with a nut;
- The mating surfaces are checked for tightness.
How much will it cost to install a toilet: price for work
If you want to know the price for the work - the installation of the toilet can be done for a different amount. On average, these services will cost:
We hope you enjoyed the article. Knowing how to properly install the toilet, the entire amount of work can be done by hand. Share in the comments how you coped with this task yourself. If you have any questions - ask. We will definitely answer.
Finally, we suggest watching a video on how to install the toilet correctly step by step.
Sooner or later there is a need to change the plumbing. Recently, many owners prefer to do the installation work on their own. Further in the article we will deal with how to properly install the toilet.
general information
Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you must select it. The main criterion in this matter will be the size of the room. So, for a typical bathroom, a "compact" toilet bowl model of imported or domestic production is suitable. Experts recommend purchasing a product similar to the one that stood before or with the same type of fastening system. It must be said that the assembly different types toilets are different. As a rule, the differences consist in the need to connect special equipment and additional functions. Modern models are equipped with enough detailed instructions on different languages, including in Russian.
Important Points
Before purchasing a new toilet, you should carefully inspect the old product. You need to pay attention to:
- Release angle. Various models are being produced today. The angle can be oblique, straight or vertical. You should measure the height of the outlet to the floor. If the output does not match in the model of the selected product, it will be possible to additionally purchase a drain transitional corrugation.
- Water connection. Traditionally, a bottom or side eyeliner is used. A flexible hose is installed. When choosing a new plumbing fixture, you should consider the length of the liner. Before installing the toilet, you should purchase a new hose.
- Mounting method. An old toilet can be fixed to the floor with two bolts. In this case, you need to purchase another set of fasteners. In some bathrooms, the appliance is cemented into the surface. In this case, it will be necessary to break the floor screed until a wood insert appears.
Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you should also check the method of blocking the water supply to the tank - from a common riser or locally. In the first case, you will have to contact local plumbers. It is also necessary to assess the condition of the sewer and water pipes throughout the apartment. It is possible that before you install the toilet, you will need to replace any elements. Before starting work, prepare the following tools:
- Drill and drill with a diameter of 10.
- Hammer.
- To assemble the tank - 2 wrenches.
- Silicone sealant.
Preparation for dismantling
Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you should remove the old product. Dismantling is carried out in several stages:
Dismantling
First of all, remove the mount to the floor. Bolts (if the old toilet is screwed on) are unscrewed. If the toilet is filled with cement, then the screed breaks if possible. If this is difficult to do, you will have to hit the plumbing object at the fixation points. After the toilet is removed, it must be tilted back. This is necessary in order to drain the remaining water from the cavities. Next, you need to disconnect the socket. The corrugation is simply removed. If a cast-iron or plastic socket is installed, then it must be disassembled to the first connection or cut to size. This is done after the toilet is removed.
Next, a corrugation should be inserted into the sewer socket. From the side of the joint, the element must be lubricated with sealant. The socket should be cleaned from the inside and also lubricated. The corrugation is inserted until it stops. After that, it is better to plug the entrance with an old rag or close it with a special plug to prevent the spread of sewer smell.
old mounts
If the floor is even (flooded with a screed or tiled), before installing the toilet on a tile or cement base, remove the old fixing elements. If the new product has similar fasteners, then the parts are installed in the old places. The old plastic dowels are drilled out. New ones are inserted in their place. Holes can be wider than dowels. In this case, the product will not be fixed securely. To prevent this, new holes should be prepared. The toilet assembly is attached to the place of fixation. Next, you should note the attachment points, taking into account the dimensions of the product, the length of the corrugation and the eyeliner. Dowels must be carefully hammered into the prepared holes. Items should fit easily. The further stability of the toilet bowl will depend on the correct preparation of the holes.
Screed
If the plumbing product was flooded with mortar, then before installing the toilet bowl, it is necessary to make a new base. After removing the old product, the wooden lining will be visible in the recesses. The floor is leveled with a thick cement mortar, a toilet bowl is placed on top and screwed. After the screed dries, the bolts are finally tightened. One point should be taken into account here. Wood lining can rot over time. If the installation of the bar is not expected, then the screed is poured and allowed to dry for 2-3 days.
We install the toilet ourselves
A new product is attached to the prepared attachment point. Fasteners are twisted alternately - one and the second should be tightened evenly. The assembly of the product is carried out together with the drain tank. As a rule, modern models are made in the form of a compact design. In this case, the toilet and cistern are already connected to each other. When installing products equipped with automatic system collecting and draining water, usually there are no difficulties. However, attention should be paid to the assembly and adjustment of the float valve. This element is responsible for the volume and pressure of incoming water. The next step is to fix the flexible eyeliner. One end is screwed to the water pipe. Then you should open a faucet a little and drain a little water. This is necessary to flush the pipe from the inside. Next, the water closes, the second end of the hose is connected to the toilet. Here it is necessary to check the reliability of the rubber pads located under the nuts. Here's how to properly install a toilet.
System check
After completing the installation, you need to check the work. Water opens in the system. While it is being drawn into the tank, you should carefully inspect all the joints, check for leaks. Next, you need to drain the water several times. This checks that there are no leaks in the sewer connections. After a few hours, everything should be carefully examined again. Here's how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands.
custom design
Often there is so little space in the bathrooms that many owners decide to install a hanging toilet. It should be noted that the installation of this product is somewhat more complicated than the one described above. How to install a wall hung toilet? More on this later.
General information
The product itself and the tank are mounted on the wall. For this, a supporting frame is used - a frame. It is usually mounted in a wall (in a niche) and covered with a decorative panel. The depth of the niche will depend on the width of the tank. In this case, technical gaps of 1-1.5 cm should also be taken into account. The sewer pipe, which also closes in a niche, must have a horizontal socket. If there is no possibility to equip a recess in the wall, then the frame is installed close to the surface. From above it can be sheathed with drywall and tiled like walls. The design of the hanging toilet bowl allows you to disguise all communications. Outside there will be only the product itself and the button for flushing.
Frame installation
The height of the assembled frame is usually 1.3-1.4 m. The lower part of the frame should be equipped with adjusting screws. Brackets are installed on top. With their help, the vertical position of the frame is adjusted. The drain button is located at a height of about a meter from the floor. The toilet seat should be at a level of about 40-42 cm. Partly the exact dimensions will depend on the preferences of the inhabitants of the apartment, partly on the model of the product itself and the position of the sewer pipe. As a rule, there is free space under the structure. It is quite convenient when cleaning the room. The supporting frame is installed strictly in a vertical position. For alignment, use the level. The future location of the frame can be determined using plumb lines. After that, holes are drilled in the wall and floor. Dowels are inserted into them. After that, the frame is installed and the horizontal position is adjusted with the screws. Vertical alignment is carried out by brackets. After giving the frame the required position, it is fixed with lock nuts.
The final stage of frame installation
How to install a tank? In this case, the element is not fixed to the toilet bowl. Installation is carried out on the frame. After installation, the tank should be connected with a flexible hose to the water pipe. Then it is necessary to adjust the elbow-shaped adapter in length. It connects the socket of the outlet pipe and the outlet of the toilet bowl. After that, the pins are mounted for fastening, in fact, the bowl of the plumbing fixture. Corners are installed around the perimeter of the frame. The lining will be fixed on them. All the necessary holes are cut out on its front surface - for pins, pipes and a release button.
Finishing the installation of the toilet
The product is attached to the selected place after the sheathing of the frame and other finishing works are completed. At the installation site of the toilet, the wall must be perfectly flat. A special paste must be applied to this place. White cement, Portland cement or white cement can be used as a leveling mixture. The paste should have the consistency of a thick slurry. A gasket is put on the pipes and pins (it is supplied in the kit), then the toilet bowl is hung and pressed tightly against the wall. At the same time, tighten the nuts. The protruding paste must be carefully removed. In conclusion, a few words must be said about how to install a toilet seat. Actually, there is nothing complicated here. The seat is usually attached with two bolts. Included with the product you can find these fixing elements.
The toilet is a thing that, depending on the number of people in the family, is used with enviable regularity. And although manufacturers make it strong enough, nevertheless, there are a number of reasons why the toilet needs to be replaced. For example, ceramics have become unsightly or the mechanism of the toilet has broken, plus there is a natural physical and moral deterioration of things. Therefore, the question of how to install a toilet is of interest to many who have not been spared the problem of replacing the toilet.
Types of toilets
On the market of sanitary ware, all types of toilet bowls are presented, which differ in special features:
- according to the configuration of the outlet drain: horizontal, oblique, which is located at an angle of 45 degrees and vertical;
- according to the shape of the bowl: visor, where the walls have a different angle of inclination, dish-shaped with an internal platform and funnel-shaped, which is considered the most practical option.
Before starting work, you need to figure out how to properly install the toilet, depending on the main toilet systems, the disassembly of which can have significant differences:
- Mounted or wall mounted. With this design, plumbing does not touch the floor, but is only attached to the installation - a special wall system that can withstand any load. Aesthetically, everything looks attractive, because. all communications are hidden. However, the installation of such a design requires significant financial costs, the most minor repairs turns into a huge problem, and the question of how to install a toilet with your own hands remains open.
- Attached. With such a system, the toilet bowl is attached to the floor, and the drain tank with all communications is hidden in the wall. A plus is the appearance of such a device, and a minus is the difficult repair of hidden parts.
- Intrafloor. Such a system is used in public toilets, when the installation is done directly into the recess of the floor. However, for apartments and houses, this option remains unacceptable by many.
- Floor. The most popular standard designs with a toilet bowl attached to the floor and a cistern adjacent to it. The indisputable advantage of such technologies is the ability to install and repair the toilet on their own, without resorting to the help of specialists.
Installing a new toilet, regardless of the specific type of product, consists of two stages:
- removal of the old toilet;
- installation of a new product.
Dismantling the toilet
When removing an old toilet, special precautions must be taken to avoid water leakage, which, in the worst case, will require further refurbishment measures. Therefore, in order to avoid common mistakes, below is step by step guide for non-professionals.
water shutoff
The first step in dismantling a toilet is to turn off the water. This can be done by simply turning off the faucet. However, there are situations when valves are no longer used. long time and they get rusty. In this case, it is necessary to block the main riser and, during the repair process, change the faucet at the same time.
Advice! In order for the taps not to rust, they should be used for prevention at least once a year.
After shutting off the tap, completely drain the water from the tank.
Disconnecting the water supply hose
On the side of the drain tank there is a flexible hose through which water flows for flushing. It is fastened with ordinary nuts, which are unscrewed very simply.
Removing the drain tank
The flush tank is attached to the toilet with two long bolts. In order to unscrew them, you first need to remove the tank cover. Then, if necessary, blot excess moisture with a sponge (if water remains inside, it will surely spill onto the floor through the holes of the removed bolts). A situation may arise when the screws are rusted, because. have been in contact with water for many years, then a special anti-rust agent will help.
After loosening the bolts, carefully remove the drain tank, swinging it in different directions for even extraction.
The toilet bowl, as a rule, is attached to the floor with several bolts (it is possible that a wooden board is first placed under the toilet bowl). To facilitate the workflow, you first need to remove the toilet lid. Then be sure to put rags on the floor or substitute a bucket. The toilet bowl has a water seal, where water is constantly located - this is a kind of barrier against unpleasant odors from the public sewer. When removing plumbing, a fair amount of liquid is poured out, as a result of which it is possible to flood the neighbors.
Then you need to unscrew the bolts at the base of the toilet. If they are rusty, then you need to use special tool or cut them with a grinder.
Along the entire line of the base you need to walk with a sharp knife or blade, because. often the joint between the toilet and the floor is coated with sealant.
Fastening to a common sewer pipe, very often, is fixed with cement. In order to get rid of it, you can use a drill with a medium drill.
Important! In order not to breathe gases from an open sewer, before removing the toilet bowl, you should prepare a homemade plug, for example, old rags. After a quick cleaning of the pipe from the remnants of construction debris, it is necessary to immediately plug the hole with a prepared rag.
Now the old toilet can be removed, and this completes the dismantling work.
Removing a wall hung toilet
When dismantling the wall-mounted toilet, the procedure is approximately the same:
- first you need to loosen the bolts that hold the toilet in the wall installation;
- then disconnect the toilet from the drain tank and the general sewer;
- finally remove the toilet.
Before the direct installation of a sanitary ware, it is necessary to perform some actions:
- Take accurate measurements of the old toilet so that when buying and installing a new one, you can avoid unnecessary problems. You also need to pay attention to the length of the bowl so that it does not accidentally block the door.
- Choose a brass mount that does not lend itself to corrosion. However, some metal toilet bolts have a yellowish zinc finish that makes them look like brass, so the item should be carefully inspected.
- Repair or good .
When installing a toilet, you can use one of three methods:
- Taffeta fastening. With this method of installation, taffeta is placed under the base of the toilet bowl. This is a special hardwood board pre-treated with drying oil. It should be laid either on the same level with the floor, or slightly above it. The taffeta must be fixed with anchors and the installation site must be filled with cement. After the solution is completely dry, you can proceed with the installation of the toilet bowl. All joints with the sewer pipe should be treated with sealant and sealed with tow, and the base of the toilet should be screwed to the prepared place with screws. Then attach the drain tank and check the tightness of the system.
- Connection with glue. One of the easiest ways to fix a toilet bowl with epoxy glue. To do this, it is necessary to clean the contacting surfaces well, and then degrease them with one of the substances - a solvent, acetone or white spirit. After that, you need to roughen them for greater adhesion and repeat the degreasing procedure. Then dry. The next step is to connect the cistern to the toilet. Then it is necessary to apply a thin layer of epoxy glue on the floor, put a plumbing product on it and press it well (you can just sit on the toilet). The glue must dry for at least 12 hours.
- Dowel installation. Proper installation of the toilet is easily done with dowel mounting. This practical method involves fixing the toilet directly to the floor, without first installing additional structures under its “leg”.
Do-it-yourself toilet installation will consist of several steps:
- Pre-sampling. On the prepared floor, you need to put the toilet and check for discrepancies between the height of the neck and the sewer. You also need to check the angle of inclination. If necessary, a correction should be made.
- Design markup. First, you should measure the width of the room and find the middle, which will be the axis of the toilet. On it, approximately at a distance of 10-15 cm from the outlet pipe of the sewer, install a toilet. Then, in the mounting holes, you can insert a marker and make the appropriate marks. At the end, you need to circle the base.
- Drain tank assembly. In accordance with the recommendations of the instructions, you need to assemble the tank, and then screw it to the toilet. To check the quality of the work done, you can reconnect all communications and make a test run. After a successful experiment, you need to drain the water again and continue the process of replacing the toilet.
- Preparation of mounting holes. In the places marked with a marker, you need to make holes with an impact drill or puncher. Then hammer plastic dowels into them.
- Corrugation sealing. First you need to wipe the pipe dry with a rag and apply silicone in waves to the ribbed gum hidden in the sewer. The same actions must be carried out from the opposite end of the corrugation, processing the area that is put on the toilet neck.
- Connecting the device to the sewer. First, part of the corrugation (to the edge of the gum) must be inserted into the sewer pipe. On the opposite side, firmly put it on the toilet outlet. Then, on the place previously outlined with a marker, you need to lay a special rubber gasket or apply a good silicone ball.
- Equipment installation. Initially, you need to put the toilet in the prepared place, press it and screw it to the floor. Excess silicone formed during installation can be cleaned with a wet cloth, passing it along the contour of the device.
This completes the installation. Now you can test run the water. If the work was carried out without errors, then the tank will be filled with water to the required level and its flow will stop. There should be no overflow. After draining the water, the process should be repeated without failure. You should also carefully check that the newly installed structure does not leak anywhere. If everything meets the above criteria, then the installation can be considered successful.
In recent years, a wall-mounted toilet has become very popular, so the question of installing a wall-mounted toilet is as relevant as ever. Installation of such plumbing equipment is carried out on the wall without any fastenings or contacts with the floor. In order to securely fix the toilet, you first need to build a metal frame. It attaches directly to bearing wall, and already to her and the toilet itself. This applies to the case if the tank and pipes need to be hidden behind a plasterboard wall. In some variants wall mounted toilet with an open tank can be mounted directly on the wall. But then it will be necessary to press the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The fastener itself is made using anchors that are mounted in a wall or frame.
Installing a toilet on a tiled floor
The tile should always be whole and beautiful, regardless of the workflow for installing the toilet. There are unspoken rules for this, the list of which is given below:
- When installing the toilet, be sure to put on rubber gaskets under the anchor nuts and dowels. They will prevent cracks in the toilet when tightened and eliminate rusty drips on ceramic tiles.
- If the tile is already laid, then the best solution would be to attach the toilet epoxy resin or dowels.
Important! For dowels, deep holes cannot be made, because. the waterproofing layer can be broken, which, in turn, can lead to more serious problems.
Users who have dealt with the services of plumbing specialists know firsthand about the high prices for any plumbing work, even the smallest ones. Carrying out all operations, including the dismantling of old equipment, can result in a tidy sum, so installing a toilet with your own hands will save someone significant financial resources.
Before installing a toilet bowl with your own hands, it is useful to study the technology for installing plumbing equipment, the rules for working with flooring, which is most often tile. Also, when carrying out work, you will need a standard household or construction power tool, fasteners that come with the toilet, or more reliable ones purchased from a distribution network.
Most often, new toilets are purchased for installation in apartments and private houses, sometimes they are placed in summer cottages, in the private sector in village-type toilets, using their old ones or buying second-hand products.
The trading network presents an extensive range of models various types toilet bowls, depending on the design, installation, material of manufacture, they are divided into categories according to the following distinctive features.
The comfort, hygiene and functionality of using a sanitary ware depends on the execution of the bowl, there are three main designs:
funnel-shaped. In it, the drain hole is located in the center, the design ensures thorough and quick removal waste products, a significant drawback of this arrangement is the formation of a surge when waste falls. To get rid of splashes in a funnel-shaped design, an anti-splash function is often implemented by making a drain hole of small depth (30 - 40 mm) with a back slope.
poppet. It is a platform in which the drain funnel is pushed forward - this leads to the fact that the waste first enters and lingers on a flat platform, after which it is washed off with water. The disadvantage of the design is low hygiene, requiring too frequent use of the brush, so the dish-shaped form is considered obsolete and is practically not used in modern toilet bowls.
Kozyrkovaya. The most common bowl shape found in modern toilets, the drain hole is pushed forward, and the waste enters the funnel, going down the sloping bottom. To prevent splashing, there is a small ledge on the top of the drain to prevent splashing.
Recently, a new type of hygienic toilet bowl has appeared on the market, in which microbes have nowhere to hide, the design is called rimless and is a bowl with solid inner walls, which in appearance is not much different from the typical one.
Water supply during flushing
The water coming from the drain tank washes away the waste along the following trajectories:
direct flush. Water comes from the front of the flush hole - this causes increased noise, splashing, incomplete coverage of the bowl. The advantages of the design include durability and low cost, in addition to the listed disadvantages, one can cite the need for more frequent care for a cup.
Circular flush. With this arrangement, water jets move towards the waste in the center of the bowl from all sides - this allows you to process up to 95% of its surface with low noise and no splashing. Naturally, the price of a flush toilet is slightly higher than that of a direct flush design.
Release type
Sewer pipes in apartment buildings are usually placed in the walls, sometimes they are more aesthetically located in the floor (on the first floors of individual houses). Accordingly, the design of plumbing fixtures should take into account a similar arrangement of pipes, so toilets are produced with the following types of outlet pipes:
Horizontal. Toilets with such a tap are connected to vertically placed risers in the walls. A branch located parallel to the floor plane is convenient if the entry point to the vertical riser is technically impossible to locate at the level of the screed and you have to connect the device at some distance from the floor.
Typically, most modern toilets have this design because of its versatility - if you need to lower the entry point to the riser lower, use special corner adapters, eccentrics.
oblique. The release at an angle of 140 - 145 degrees is done in the toilets a little less often than a straight one, the bowl is connected to a vertical riser almost at floor level. The advantage of the design is the absence of stagnation in the corrugation - all waste completely drains into sewer riser due to the significant bias. Modern toilets with an oblique outlet are less functional due to restrictions in connecting to a riser at a greater height.
Vertical. More often, toilets of this design are used in individual housing construction, where there is no need to use an interfloor riser. In this case, the device is put on a sewer pipe coming out of the floor using a straight adapter pipe.
Bowl placement method
Toilets must withstand not only their own weight, but also the mass of the person on the bowl, their design, depending on the location, is of the following types:
floor. In this modification of the classical type, the bowl has flat base with two through holes through which it is attached to the floor with screws with dowels, anchor bolts. Floor sanitary equipment is designed for installation in spacious toilet rooms, the installation itself is simple and takes a minimum of time.
Note: One of the modern varieties of floor models are wall-mounted types that have a flat drain tank and a drain design that allows you to put the toilet close to the wall - this saves space in the toilet room.
Separately, you can select a special one, which has a triangular shape for installing a toilet bowl in the corner of the toilet. The corner model allows you to move away from established patterns when arranging toilet room, is original design solution, in some cases (square-shaped rooms) outperforms the traditional arrangement in practicality.
Suspended. The design allows you to hang the bowl on the wall, thanks to the reinforced body, it can withstand weight up to 400 kg. Usually, the flush tank of a wall-hung toilet is hidden in the wall, leaving a button on the surface to control its operation. Wall hung toilets are designed for installation in a small toilet room and, thanks to the open floor, make it much easier to clean the room.
tank location option
The drain tank can be attached to the bowl or be located at some distance from it, supplying water through the pipeline, and the distance can be as long as desired.
Separate tank and bowl. This modification was widely used in the toilet rooms of the Soviet era, the tank rose high above the toilet bowl, and water entered the bowl through a long vertical pipeline. Such toilets are now little used due to the lack of a retail network, with the exception of exclusive options for arranging residential premises in a certain design style.
Combined toilet. This is a classic model of the vast majority of toilet bowls, in which the tank is located directly on the bowl, which is its support. The advantage of the design is ease of installation - to install the toilet, two holes in the floor are enough, to which the base is screwed.
One of the varieties of the combined design toilet bowl is a creative version, which is a monoblock cast from one billet. The model does not require fastening the tank to the bowl with metal bolts through and sealing their butt joint with a rubber ring.
Hidden tank. A tank hidden behind a false wall is a recently popular type of installation called installation; for its implementation, the tank is placed on metal frame and hide behind the wall lining, bringing to the surface the button that controls the drain. The bowl is placed on the floor or hung on the wall, the flush tank is usually made of plastic.
Water supply to the tank
For aesthetics and ease of placement, modern tanks are produced with a right or left lower water supply to the body, products with side holes for water supply are less common.
Manufacturing materials
The list of components from which toilet bowls are made is not too wide, the main ones are:
Porcelain. The material is a burnt mixture of clay, quartz sand, kaolin with other additives. Porcelain has low porosity, does not absorb odors, the service life of porcelain sanitary ware reaches 50 years. The disadvantages of porcelain include its fragility and high cost, inaccessible to many consumers.
Faience. The raw materials and technology for producing faience are similar to the production of porcelain, the material has a large porosity - this leads to a deterioration in hygienic indicators. It is well absorbed into the faience surface, odors are retained, therefore, all faience sanitary ware is covered with a dense water-repellent glaze during manufacture.
Due to low cost, wide color palette, resistance to almost all aggressive chemicals, ease of maintenance, service life of at least 30 years, faience products are in great demand among the consumer and are leaders in sales among other types of sanitary ware.
The disadvantages include the fragility of faience products, inherent in all ceramics, as well as the appearance of small cracks over time, weakening the material and changing color.
stainless steel. Toilet bowls made of metals, more precisely stainless steel, due to their lightness and strength are usually installed in in public places, mainly in land, sea and air transport (trains, planes, ships).
On sale you can find cast-iron enameled bowls without a tank under your feet, which in Soviet times were installed in rural-type public toilets. Now, with an increase in culture, they are not in high demand, but are still produced at obsolete production and sold in the distribution network.
Plastic. The current state of technology allows the production of plastic sanitary ware, as reinforced acrylic products have high strength, low porosity, and are easy to maintain. The disadvantages of polymers include low mechanical strength and susceptibility to thermal deformation.
Glass, stone. Natural and artificial stone, glass, serve as materials for the exclusive manufacture of sanitary ware and, accordingly, have a prohibitive price for the average consumer. It is convenient to make a monoblock structure from artificial stone, imperceptibly and firmly connecting two castings (a bowl and a tank) with a liquid composition for their manufacture.
Removing an old toilet
Before you install the toilet yourself, you need to get rid of the old plumbing fixture. For the removal of the toilet by employees of specialized firms, you will have to pay about 500 rubles. - the amount is quite tangible for the average citizen, given that the work takes no more than half an hour of time and because of the simplicity any owner can do.
Dismantling work when removing a typical floor-standing toilet is carried out in the following order:
- Shut off the water supply with a ball valve near the flexible pipe, drain water from the tank.
- Unscrew the inlet hose from the water pipe.
- Proceed to remove the two mounting screws at the bottom. If they have a hex head, use a wrench, some old toilets may have been mounted on slotted screws, which makes them much more difficult to remove. Usually, as a result of long-term operation, fixing screws become covered with rust and salt deposits, deposits can be softened, dissolved with kerosene, household chemicals to remove limescale and rust stains in household plumbing, with WD-40 grease.
Note: If there is no time or suitable solutions to dissolve rust and salt deposits, the old toilet is broken out of the fasteners by moving it to the sides or breaking the base near the screws with a hammer (chisel). Also, the toilet is broken when it is walled up or glued to the floor with a cement-sand mortar.
After removing the fasteners or destroying the base, the toilet is lifted and slightly tilted back to drain the water, and then taken out of the toilet room and placed on the floor with a tank against the wall to secure it from tipping over.
- The corrugation is disconnected from the toilet (if it was removed along with it), the supply hose is unscrewed cold water, after which they dispose of the bowl with a tank fixed on it - weight assembled structure not so high for any healthy male.
- The screws remaining in the floor, if they have not been unscrewed, are not difficult to unscrew with pliers or in last resort cut with a grinder (metal blade).
- Upon completion of all work, close the sewer hole with a rag (so that it does not get dirty, you can put it in a plastic bag), remove dirt from the toilet room.
Installing a new toilet
Do-it-yourself installation of the toilet bowl in the toilet is done using a puncher or a home drill with a beating function, you will need dowels with screws (included in the delivery), a wrench of a suitable size for screwing screws and the simplest household tool (tape measure, hammer, marker). From Supplies silicone grease and sealant may be useful. Before installing the toilet bowl, the drain mechanism in the tank is assembled according to the operating instructions.
Types of fasteners to the floor
The bowl of a typical toilet bowl is attached to the floor in the following ways:
- For dowels with screws. Most floor standing toilets come with two wall plugs and hex head screws. To fix the bowl, holes are drilled in the floor, dowels are driven in and wrench screw them in. There is a second type of fastening with dowels, in which studs with external threads are screwed in instead of hexagonal screws. After installing the bowl on the studs, it is fixed with union nuts.
- For anchor bolts. The method is used when it is necessary to ensure high rigidity of fasteners. For this in drilled holes anchor bolts with an external thread are driven in, the bowl is fixed with union nuts. Instead of anchors, threaded studs can be used, which are embedded in the floor on cement mortar placed in drilled holes of a larger diameter.
- On a wooden base. In Soviet times, toilets were placed in short lengths wooden planks laid in recesses of concrete slabs and immured cement-sand screed. After removing the old toilet, you can use this fixing method, using a board instead of plastic dowels. In this case, after installing a new toilet in place of the old one, it is screwed to the floor with wood screws into the board. Since the diameter of the screw is quite large, holes are pre-drilled in the wooden base to facilitate screwing.
How to install corrugation on the toilet
The distribution network sells a wide range of elastic corrugations for connecting toilet bowls to a sewer drain, when the bowl has an oblique outlet, additional elements when connected to a standard outlet with a diameter of 110 mm, they are unlikely to be needed.
If the user purchased a product with a direct outlet and the vertical riser pipe is located a short distance from it from below, a rigid adapter with right angle on an inclined one (sometimes an eccentric is additionally placed), placed on the outlet pipe of the bowl or in the sewer pipe.
Instead of a corrugated one, you can use a rigid connection of the bowl with a drain sewer pipe, which has less resistance to water flow and is more hygienic, however, it is more difficult to implement such a connection with your own hands, more expensive in terms of finances and time.
Corrugation to a typical toilet is connected as follows:
- To facilitate installation, lubricate the outer and inner surface corrugations at the points of contact with the bowl nozzle and sewer pipe silicone grease. You should not follow the lead of many plumbers who throw other people's money down the drain for silicone and cover the corrugation with silicone sealant that is absolutely useless in this application.
- They put the corrugation on the outlet pipe of the bowl, bring the toilet bowl to the sewer drain and place the other end into it.
- They put the toilet in the installation place, fill the drain tank and drain the water, checking the tightness of the connection with a dry piece of fabric, if wet spots appear on the fabric, slightly turn and move the corrugation, and then let it settle for some time.
Toilet installation step by step
After assembling the drain system in the tank, it is screwed to the bowl and the toilet bowl is fixed, the work is carried out in stages in the following sequence:
- A flexible hose is screwed to the drain tank, a corrugation is installed on the bowl, the toilet is brought into the toilet and connected to the water pipe and sewer drain in the above way.
- Turn on the water supply, after filling the tank, drain it and check the tightness of all connections at the connection points of the flexible piping and corrugations. If drops are not found, proceed to further operations, otherwise they press the flexible eyeliner or move the corrugation.
- Check the location of the toilet bowl: measure the distance from the base of the bowl to the opposite walls with a tape measure, making it the same, track the position of the cistern, making sure there is a small gap (10 - 20 mm) and the parallelism of its location relative to rear wall. Open inspection doors for review and access to, making sure there is no interference. By inserting a marker in the center of the holes in the base of the bowl, mark two mounting points for fasteners.
- Turn off the water supply with a ball valve, disconnect the flexible connection from the water pipe, drain the water, raise the toilet bowl with a slight slope back and take it out of the toilet.
Important: Some plumbers make marks on the bowl without a tank to simplify and facilitate the work - this decision is fraught with errors and makes it difficult to choose the optimal location of the toilet without tracking the full picture.
- Next, they start drilling holes in the floor tiles (porcelain stoneware, gres, tiles, etc.) using a puncher or a household drill. To do this, a small piece of tile is very carefully beaten off with a sharp core, and a hole is made in it with a ceramic drill (feather type) in the normal rotation mode. The work is greatly simplified if the holes coincide with the tile seam.
- After drilling the tiles, change the drill in the puncher to a victorious one and switch the tool to the mode of simultaneous rotation and beating. The required immersion depth is marked with tape on the drill, taking into account the length of the screw and the thickness of the base of the toilet bowl, then holes are drilled.
Important: It should be noted that the dowels and screws often included with the toilet do not technically correspond to its mass, that is, on a floor with slight irregularities, the toilet will loosen in a short time and begin to swing on the ledges. Therefore, it is rational to purchase more powerful fasteners with dowels and bolts with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm in the distribution network - this will ensure a stable, reliable and durable fastening of the toilet bowl to the floor.
- After drilling holes, dowels are carefully driven into them and the toilet is taken into place, connected to the water supply, draining the sewer system, checking the correct operation of the tank and the presence of leaks. If there are no complaints, screw the toilet bowl to the floor with screws, be sure to place gaskets from the kit or purchased from the distribution network under the caps.
- At the end of the work, you should install the lid on the toilet according to the instructions, the procedure is quite simple and will not take much time.
Why you need a sealant
Many professional plumbers, due to the specifics of their work, are so accustomed to silicone sealant that they cannot do without its constant use in all cases, regardless of the costs - after all, the customer pays for the material. Therefore, when installing a toilet bowl, most of them recommend slightly raising it above the floor and pumping one or two silicone tubes under the base to increase stability and protect against water leakage.
Silicone is not so expensive, but if the bowl is installed on a floor with high teeth, due to the constant deformation of the sealant during cleaning, its stability may be impaired over time, moreover, when the toilet is removed for a short time, its bottom will have to be silicone again. The sealant can be painlessly replaced with an elastic backing from a piece of linoleum by cutting it along the contour of the base.
In other situations, on a flat floor, instead of a sealant, it’s a good idea to put one or more layers of foamed polyethylene under the base, which is used as a substrate when laying a laminate, or replace it with similar materials - in almost all cases it costs nothing and you can save some money without buying silicone.
For a consumer with a low financial income, self-dismantling of the old toilet bowl with the installation of a new one will save the amount of about 3,000 rubles that he would have spent using the services of plumbers from specialized firms.
If you managed to figure out the instructions and install the drain system in the tank yourself, then carrying out further work will not cause any special difficulties for any owner, even in the absence of building skills.
When there is no power tool at home, the problem can be solved by borrowing a hammer drill from friends or by renting it from one of the specialized companies.
