How to make a potbelly stove with your own hands: step by step instructions. Potbelly stove for long burning: a simple design for making your own hands Do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a profile pipe

And in a private country house, and own garage or a workshop, it is always a good idea to have a mobile or stationary potbelly stove. There are many on sale today. different models these heaters, but they can be expensive. Therefore, if you have experience with metal, suitable material and the right tools, often stoves are made independently.

Which model of a wood-burning stove to choose with your own hands is up to the master to decide, since these home-made appliances can have the most different kind and be made both from new material and from improvised metal objects.

Craftsmen have learned to adapt metal barrels with walls 2.5-3 mm thick, gas or oxygen cylinders, pipes of medium diameter, metal sheets and even disks from large automobile wheels for the manufacture of stoves-potbelly stoves.

Tools for making potbelly stoves

To work with metal, you will need special tools, some of which are available in almost every private house, while others will have to be bought or rented.

• Angle grinder machine - "Bulgarian" and consumable in the form of cutting discs and grinding wheels.
• A welding machine with a power of 200 A, as well as consumables - electrodes Ø 3 and 4 mm. In addition, you will definitely need a special mask and protective suit.
• Metal brush.
• Slag hammer.
• Measuring tools - a folding ruler, a long metal ruler, tape measure, chalk or marker.
• Pliers, hammer, chisel.
• Drill with drills for metal of various diameters.

The choice of stove model most often depends on where it is planned to be located, since residential premises require a more aesthetic appearance heater and increased safety. Therefore, for installation in a house, an option made of metal sheets or a piece of medium-diameter pipe is best suited.

Suitable for any of existing models, but it is better to choose one that will help not only bring heat into the room, but also warm the water.

In order to make a final choice, it is worth considering different variants and learn about the manufacturing process.

Gas bottle stove

The installation of a potbelly stove from a cylinder can take place in different ways:

• Using one cylinder with its vertical or horizontal arrangement;
• Using two cylinders that are installed perpendicular to each other.

The second model will give more heat, since the heating area of ​​​​the furnace is almost twice as large.

The balloon itself has a neat appearance, it can be done hob, and if you give the finished stove a decent appearance, then it can be installed even in a residential area.

Materials for manufacturing

For the manufacture of the first model will need one cylinder, for the second, respectively, two, but besides this for the manufacture of oven will need:

• A steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm - a jumper between the firebox and the ash pan, as well as a hob will be made from it.
• If you want the stove to look more respectable, then you need to purchase a finished cast-iron door with a cast pattern for the firebox and ash pan.
• If the appearance is not so important, then the door can be made from a fragment of metal cut from the cylinder itself or from a steel sheet.
• Chimney pipe with a diameter of 90 — 100 mm.
• Reinforcing bar with a diameter of 12 — 15 mm or steel corner for the manufacture of the grate and legs. cast iron can also be purchased at a specialized store, or the bottom of a horizontally laid cylinder, in which holes are drilled, can serve as a grate.

Any of the models can be made not only from large cylinders, but also from small ones - this will depend on the place allotted for the furnace.

Gas cylinder preparation

Before starting work, the cylinder must be prepared, especially if the container is not new, but has already been in operation. In this case, a certain concentration of gas can always remain inside the cylinder, and if a spark occurs during its cutting, an explosion is possible. It is impossible to neglect measures for the appropriate preparation of the container, since do work it will be extremely dangerous.

Preparation is carried out in the following sequence:

• First of all, the valve, which is located on top of the cylinder, is unscrewed, the hole in which it is installed is released. The container is left on the street or in the utility room for about a day, filling it to the top with water.
• After this time, the water from the cylinder is drained. It must be taken into account that the liquid will have bad smell, so you need to merge it at a distance from housing.
• The washed cylinder may well be used in operation, since the last remaining gas must be removed from it along with water.

Making a vertical furnace from a cylinder

• The first step is to mark the prepared cylinder - it indicates the location of the firebox and ash pan. For this procedure, you will need a marker and a flexible measuring tape - thanks to her rather rigid, but elastic tape can be measured and drawn locations doors.

• The next step is to carefully cut out the marked parts with the help of a grinder. Cut fragments are almost always used for further work.

• These elements are scalded, adding bumpers, hinges and a latch-handle, and they make excellent doors.
• Next, the inner diameter of the cylinder is measured, and according to this measurement, a ring is rolled up from a thick wire, which will become the basis for welding the reinforcement. Thus, a grate for a furnace is made.
• Then, the installation level of the grate is outlined. The grate should be located 30 ÷ 50 mm below the edge of the cut opening for the firebox door. The grate becomes, thus, the separator of the chamber of the ash pan and the firebox. Reinforcing bars are welded at a distance of 8 ÷ 10 mm from each other.

• Hinges attached to the door are welded to one side of the firebox opening. It is very important to accurately align the installation site so that the doors close and open easily.

• On the opposite side of the loops, a hook-loop for the valve, open from above, is fixed. It must securely keep the door closed while the oven is heating.
• In the same way, the door is fixed on the ash pan.
• It is recommended to cut off the top of the cylinder to weld on top of a round metal panel that will play the role hob.
• The chimney can be removed both through the top of the cylinder and through the rear or side wall of the furnace. If you choose the second option, then the top hob will be much larger, as it will be freed from the chimney.

If the balloon is upright, it will take much less space than the horizontal version, but you need to remember that any oven should be located at a distance of 200 mm from the wall, and the walls themselves must be covered with heat-resistant material.

Effective potbelly stove from two gas cylinders

To make such a potbelly stove, you will need two cylinders, which, when heated, are able to heat the room much faster. In addition, if desired, it is quite possible to arrange a hot water tank in the vertical part of the furnace, if you install a hermetically sealed container inside, bring the tap out and cut in the pipes for supplying and extracting water.

• The first step is to prepare the balloon, which will stand horizontally. The upper part is cut off from it, so that a round hole with a diameter of about 30 - 35 mm is less than the inner diameter of the cylinder.

• In the bottom part of the future furnace, holes with a diameter of 10-12 mm are drilled in several lines, which in this case will serve as a kind of grate.

• A metal box is welded under this "grate" - this will ash pan-blower. It is then necessary to install a tightly closing door on it, which prevents coal and ash from falling out. As an air regulator she used this model will not.
• Legs from corners or fittings are welded next to the ash pan.

• A round hole is cut out on top of a horizontally located cylinder, from the side opposite the furnace door, on which the vertical part of the furnace will be installed.

• A door is installed, which is best made from the head of another cylinder. A hole is cut out in the center, into which a branch pipe with a diameter of about 76 mm is welded. This branch pipe is equipped with a valve, with which you can regulate the flow of air into the furnace, and hence the intensity of burning firewood. Door hinges it is recommended to place it on top - under the influence of its gravity, the lid will securely close the combustion chamber window and minimize air suction.

• The most difficult thing in preparing the upper, vertical part of the potbelly stove is the process of marking and cutting out a certain shape, which is ideal for putting on and welded to a horizontal body.

• In this case, an additional heat exchange chamber is arranged in the vertical part of the furnace, i.e. the smoke, getting into this section, does not immediately go into the chimney, but lingers in the arranged chamber.

• To do this, metal plates with holes are welded inside the vertical body at a certain distance, which can vary from 250 to 400 mm. Holes should be cut closer to the edge of the metal round piece. When installing them, the hole on the first jumper must be located on the opposite side from from versions on the second jumper and so on. The best option in this case would be to install three similar jumpers located equidistant from each other.
• The vertical assembly with the baffles already mounted is installed and welded from above to the horizontally mounted casing. A pipe for connection is welded onto the upper cylinder.

Video: potbelly stove of two gas cylinders

Potbelly stove from a cylinder installed horizontally

This version of the potbelly stove is made from a single cylinder, and the technology of doing work is in many ways similar to the option described above. Therefore, it is only worth considering difference of some elements.

• Instead of a vertical assembly, only a pipe for connecting a chimney pipe is welded in the rear upper part of the cylinder.

• A rectangular hole is cut out for the furnace door - it is quite possible to fit it in size to the finished cast-iron door. If it will be purchased in a store, then you should pay attention to the doors designed for blowing holes brick ovens- sometimes they are ideal for a potbelly stove from a cylinder.

• You can make a door cut from a balloon rectangular part. It is well suited for the resulting hole in terms of the size of the sides, but in the middle of it there will be a hole from the valve. It will need to be welded with a patch cut from a metal sheet.
• In both the previous and this version, a hob can be added. For this, for example, from a steel bar with a thickness of 5 — 8 mm, a rectangle is bent, which is welded onto the container, creating a small but fairly flat surface.
• You can use two steel strips instead of wire, welded on both sides of the cylinder for its entire length.

Potbelly stove from a barrel

A potbelly stove made from a barrel is more voluminous and takes up much more space than a cylinder stove. That is why it is able to heat a room with a larger area. Such a stove can also be horizontal or vertical, but both the first and second options are used to heat not only utility and technical premises, but also housing.

To make this potbelly stove, you will need a metal barrel, a steel sheet and a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.

Vertical potbelly stove

• The barrel is measured and marked on its surface. locations the doors of the blower and the firebox, as well as the place of the cut. It should pass below the edge of the firebox by 30 ÷ 50mm.
• Then the barrel is cut into two parts, and each of them is first worked separately.
• A round plate is cut out of a steel sheet, equal in diameter to the size of the barrel. It provides a hole for the passage of the chimney pipe.
• A hole is also cut in the top of the barrel so that it can be aligned with the hole on the round piece that will become the hob.
• The chimney branch pipe is welded into the hole in the barrel, and then from above, through the hole, a hob is threaded onto the pipe and placed, which is welded to the sides of the barrel. The air space created between them, which is the height of the rim, will help keep the hob hot for a longer time.
• Further, a round metal part with holes cut in it - a grate is also welded to the underside of the upper part. Another option is to weld two semicircular brackets under the finished cast-iron grate. The photo clearly shows how these elements look and are located.
• When the bottom and top panel of this part of the stove are ready, you can cut a hole for the firebox door according to the markings made earlier.
• The cut out part is scalded around with metal strips, hinges and a handle with a vertical latch are fixed to the door.
• Next, the hinges for the door and the hook for the valve are welded to the body. This process must be carried out very carefully, accurately calculating the distances for installation, since the door should open and close easily, and the valve should freely enter the holder arranged by the hook.
• In the lower part of the barrel, an opening is cut for the ash pan. The door is being prepared and hung - in the same way as in the case of the combustion chamber.
• After that, both parts are connected into a single structure by a welded seam.

Horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

The process of manufacturing a horizontal version of a potbelly stove from a barrel is carried out in almost the same way as from a cylinder.

• In the upper plane, a window is marked and cut out, on which a door made from a cut piece of metal will be installed. Connections of the door with hinges and hinges with the body are made with the help of rivets.

• The regular pressure relief hole in the barrel, 20 mm in diameter, is used as a blower. There is no separate door for the ash pan provided.
• It is recommended to immediately make a stand to accommodate the future stove. It is made from scraps of pipes or a corner, so that the shelves ensure the stability of the barrel laid on them, without backlash.

• The next step is the manufacture of a grate from a metal sheet 3-4 mm thick. First, the area is measured and, according to the data obtained, a panel of the required size is cut out, in which holes for air supply are drilled. The finished grate is laid on the bottom of the barrel in such a way that at the highest point, in the center, the distance between the grate and the inner surface of the barrel is about 70 mm. The grate is not fixed rigidly - it should be easily removed to clean the stove from accumulated ash.

• A special connecting node is made for the chimney pipe in the rear upper part. After marking the desired diameter with a grinder, diametrical slots are cut at an angle of 15 º from one another - a total of 12 cuts will be obtained. The resulting "teeth" are bent up - the chimney pipe inserted then will be attached to them with rivets.

Video: the simplest horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

Potbelly stove from rims

A potbelly stove can also be made from two disks from large wheels and a pipe segment large diameter- it must be selected for the diameter of the prepared discs. The height of the segment may vary depending on the preferences of the master and the stability of the structure, but are usually limited to 300 - 450 mm.

There is nothing complicated in the scheme and manufacturing process of this version of the potbelly stove, but it is more suitable for technical and utility rooms than for residential ones.

• Separate elements of the future stove are being prepared - two disks, a pipe segment, a metal sheet and chimney pipe.
• All three parts are welded together into a single vertical structure. To facilitate the adjustment of the pipe diameter to the discs, it is permissible to cut off the outer edge from the latter along the circumference, on one side.

• Further, an opening for the firebox is marked on the pipe and cut out with a grinder.
• The cut-out part is scalded around the perimeter, a valve and hinges are installed on it, thereby obtaining the necessary door.
• Then, you need to make a hole for the blower, otherwise the fire in the furnace simply will not burn. To do this, a window of 100–120 mm in width and height is cut out in the lower disk.

• A hole for the chimney is cut from the back of the upper disk and a pipe is welded into it.
• It is recommended to make a hob from a steel sheet with a thickness of 4 — 5 mm. It is tightly welded to the edge of the upper disk, thus becoming an additional heat exchanger.
• The same is done with the bottom of the furnace in order to arrange a full-fledged ash pan and increase the safety of operation of the potbelly stove.

In fact, such a potbelly stove is, rather, a fire fenced with metal, and is neither economical nor easy to use. However, for garage needs and subject to free source materials, this is a completely acceptable option.

Video: an example of an effective potbelly stove made of rims

Potbelly stove "Gnome"

One of the most popular of all homemade bourgeois is compact. It looks neat and can be designed for installation in any room. This potbelly stove is well suited in size for small country houses, as it does not take up much space and is indispensable assistant in cooking and heating rooms.

A similar model of a potbelly stove can be equipped with internal partitions - plates, then it will receive the properties of additional heat transfer, or you can make the most common case with division into a firebox and an ash pan.

The first version of the stove will keep the heat in the room for a long time, and this is very important if summer residents live outside the city from early spring to late autumn, when the nights are cold.

In order to make such a potbelly stove, you need to purchase a steel sheet with a thickness of 3 — 4 mm, flue pipe, angle 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm. For the burner, the lid can be made independently or bought ready-made.

• Relying on drawing, on metal sheets draw details potbelly stoves: panels all walls, a grate and two plates for fixing them inside the structure.
• Rectangular holes are cut in the front panel for the firebox and blower. The cut pieces of metal are used to make doors. They are scalded with a corner and valves and hinged hinges are immediately fixed on them. Then, the doors are attached to the front panel.
• On the same panel, only from its inner side at a distance of 150 ÷ ​​160 mm from the top, one of the plates is welded, which will regulate the output of heated air. The plates must be 80 ÷ 100 mm shorter than the length of the side walls of the housing.
• After that, on the back wall, at a distance of 70 — 80 mm from the top, the second plate is welded. In combination, these two plates form a zigzag labyrinth for smoke during the combustion of the furnace. Thanks to this, each of the corners of the potbelly stove body will warm up.
• IN hob two holes are cut out - for the burner and for the chimney.
• Legs made of thick reinforcement or a corner are welded to the bottom wall of the body. You can choose a frame option from a corner, which includes legs and a base for fixing the bottom and lower edges of the side panels on it.
• Before welding the side parts to the frame or to the bottom panel, it is necessary to mark and weld the corners on them for the entire length of the panel, they must be welded at the same level, since their role is to serve as brackets for laying the grate.
• In the panel prepared for the grate, holes with a diameter of 12 ÷ 15 mm are drilled in a checkerboard pattern, at a distance of 30 ÷ 40 mm from each other. Another option for a grate can be a grate welded from reinforcing bars. The possibility of purchasing a finished cast-iron grate should not be discounted.
• Installation and welding of all walls of the potbelly stove are carried out. The main thing is to achieve complete tightness of the welds, so sometimes it becomes useful to install a 30 × 30 mm metal corner outside. This will weigh it down a little general design, but will give it additional strength and reliability.
• The top cover is welded with a chimney pipe and a cooking ring.
• To make the stove look respectable, you need to clean all the welds and cover its surface with heat-resistant paint.

It makes sense to additionally install a screen on the side and back surfaces, which will increase the safety of the stove and create a powerful convection flow of hot air, which significantly speeds up the heating of the room. The screen panels are mounted on racks in such a way that they are spaced from the stove body at a distance of 30 to 50 mm.

Video: a master class on making a potbelly stove from a steel sheet

What to consider when installing a potbelly stove

A self-made one will bring warmth and comfort to a house or outbuildings, without causing problems, only if safety regulations are observed during its installation.

• The surface on which the oven is to be installed must be rigid and fire resistant. This could be, for example, brickwork or ceramic tiles. You can also use sheet of asbestos the top is covered with a metal sheet.
• Around the stove, heat-resistant drywall or asbestos sheets are installed on the walls. Wall cladding with ceramic tiles or bricks is also suitable.
• It is forbidden to place combustible materials and compositions near the furnace, not far from the furnace.
• The chimney must also be insulated from combustible surfaces when passing through a wall or attic floor.
• It is very important for safety to equip a reliable ventilation system so that carbon monoxide cannot accumulate in the room.
• In order for the furnace to work for a long time and efficiently, only high-quality material must be chosen for its manufacture.
• Before installing the potbelly stove in its permanent place, street tests must be carried out, paying attention Special attention on the quality of welds and the accuracy of fitting all parts.

Since home-made wood-burning stoves remain the simplest means of heating garages and cottages, in this article we will consider making a potbelly stove with our own hands. With the help of our instructions and drawings, you can make a heater from available materials - a gas cylinder, a steel pipe, and even rims.

Making a furnace from a cylinder

From old propane cylinders with a volume of 50 liters, home craftsmen got the hang of making several varieties of wood-fired bourgeois:

• simple vertical stove;
• Bubafonya long-burning unit, where the fuel is burned from top to bottom;
• horizontal furnaces - conventional and with a secondary pyrolysis chamber.

Note. From the former gas tank, installed in a vertical position, it is possible to weld a dropper furnace on oil mining and diesel fuel. How to do this correctly is described in.

It is pointless to disassemble the simplest designs of country and garage bourgeois houses - there are enough similar drawings on the Internet. We propose to consider more efficient, and therefore economical models with modifications that increase heat transfer and efficiency of iron furnaces.

Instructions for Dismantling the Gas Vessel

Combustible propane-butane mixture filled into gas cylinders is heavier than air by weight. To safely cut the tank for the manufacture of a potbelly stove, the remaining mixture must be displaced with water. The correct disassembly technology looks like this:

When the tank is partially empty, continue working and remove the lid. Whatever design of the home-made stove you choose, the balloon will have to be cut, so the filling procedure with water is mandatory.

Vertical model with air chamber

The device of a potbelly stove - a housekeeper on firewood is shown below in the diagram. The modernization consists in adding a separate chamber with a heat exchanger in the form of steel ribs, blown with air through 2 nozzles in the upper part of the heater. Increased efficiency is achieved by forced air supply by the fan, which allows you to quickly warm up the room.

An important point. An additional chamber isolated from the firebox can also serve as a water circuit connected to registers or heating radiators. One caveat: this inexpensive version of the boiler for a summer house or garage must necessarily work with forced circulation of the coolant from the pump.

For manufacturing, you will need additional materials from the list:

• sheet metal 3 mm thick on the doors and partition of the chamber;
• scraps of thick iron for the heat exchanger;
• fittings Ø16-20 mm for grate;
• pieces of pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm for air connection and Ø100 mm for the chimney;
• asbestos cord, finished handles.

Drawing of a heating potbelly stove of a vertical design

If a propane tank is not available, make a potbelly stove from big pipe with a diameter of 300-500 mm with a wall thickness of up to 5 mm. The assembly technology in both cases is the same:

Note. When making a furnace from a pipe Ø300-500 mm, it will be necessary to install the bottom of the ash pan (steel 2 mm), and the air chamber will turn out to be cylindrical.

To prevent the potbelly stove from smoking into the room, install a chimney at least 4 m high (counting from the grate). If you plan to burn sawdust, then the distance between the bars of the grate should be made as small as possible.

Due to its small size and forced supply of heated air, the stove is convenient to use for a variety of purposes - to heat a garage, cottage or greenhouse. Do-it-yourself technology for assembling such a heater is shown in the video:

Horizontal two-chamber stove

In this case, the design improvement consists in installing an additional chamber with partitions for afterburning pyrolysis gases released in the firebox during slow smoldering of firewood. The emphasis is on long burning, so the useful volume of the furnace is not taken away by the ash pan - it is taken out.

To increase the efficiency and heat transfer of the potbelly stove, the body is equipped with flat heat exchange fins on the outside, which is shown in the drawing. According to the principle of operation, the heater is similar to Buleryan-type furnaces: before going outside, the flue gases go around 2 partitions in the secondary chamber, giving off heat to the iron walls.

In addition to two tall 50-liter cylinders or a steel pipe with a diameter of up to 500 mm, for the manufacture you will need:

• metal 3 mm for the ash pan and doors;
• steel strips 2 mm on the ribs;
• any suitable metal for legs;
• a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm and a length of 15 cm to the chimney pipe;
• reinforcement for grating reinforcement;
• asbestos cord for sealing doors.

Trimming and docking of propane vessels, installation of door frames and ash pans

The manufacture of the furnace begins traditionally - with the disassembly of the cylinders. The bottom part is cut off from one, and in the second, an opening is made for the doors and slot-like holes in the side wall - future grate. In order for the combustion products to pass into the secondary chamber, on the other hand, a round hole with a diameter of about 10 cm is made. The further procedure is as follows:

1. So that the grate bars do not bend from high temperature, weld reinforcement from the reinforcement from the periodic profile from below.
2. Make a frame on the end and place the door, sealing it with asbestos.
3. Weld the ash chamber with the door and install the legs.
4. On the second cylinder, cut out the walls in such a way as to dock it with a horizontal firebox at an angle of 90 °. Inside, fix 2 partitions by welding according to the drawing.
5. Connect the secondary chamber to the firebox, carefully welding the joint seam.
6. Install the chimney pipe and external heat exchanger fins.

Advice. Partitions in a vertical chamber are best made from semicircular pieces cut from the sides of the second tank. This will increase the heat extraction from the flue gases.

The resulting potbelly stove for giving is quite capable of providing heating for various utility rooms, including a steam room in a bathhouse. It is easy to adapt it for cooking by making a flat cooking surface of 4-5 mm metal on top of the firebox.

Heater from car rims

The advantage of rims is a decent thickness of the metal. If you make a potbelly stove out of them, it will not burn out for a long time, although you cannot call such a product beautiful. Here are some tips for making:

If only two rims were found on the farm, you can assemble a combined version of the potbelly stove by inserting a section of a steel pipe of a suitable diameter between them. How such a stove is made, see the video:

Classic steel potbelly stove

From iron sheets with a thickness of 3-4 mm, we propose to weld a wood-burning stove shown in the photo. Outwardly, it looks like a classic rectangular potbelly stove with low efficiency (up to 40%), but inside the design has undergone modernization. To make it more economical, two smoke teeth are arranged above the combustion chamber, like those of brick fireplaces.

The partitions inside the body, shown in the drawing, block the cross section of the firebox in the horizontal plane and leave a small passage 10 cm wide for combustion products. The flow of heated gases through two smoke circuits gives an increase in heat transfer by 5-10%, which is much better than factory cast-iron stoves.

Advice. The dimensions of the heating unit indicated on the drawing are not an axiom, you can change them at your discretion. The main thing is to maintain the size (height) of the gas ducts. We do not list the required materials, since their list is obvious - sheet metal, pipe cuttings for the chimney, and rolled metal for grates and legs.

The production order is as follows:

1. Weld the body of the potbelly stove, starting from the hearth sheet. Primary assembly of parts is carried out with tacks.
2. Cut and install 2 partitions. For the lower one, located above the flame, it is worth taking thicker iron - 5-6 mm.
3. Make a grate and place it on supports from the corners welded from the inside to the side walls of the firebox.
4. Attach a cover and a chimney pipe, mount simple doors with locks.
5. Finish all seams.

If you expect to heat a potbelly stove with small fractions of coal or sawdust, make a grate from steel corners turned downwards with a profile. Make the distance between them minimal - 5 mm.

Conclusion

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

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How to make a potbelly stove from steel

Stove potbelly stove convection type.

If you need to heat a house in the country and cook food, you should definitely know how to weld a potbelly stove yourself from sheet steel. This design won't require a lot of fuel. This is achieved by installing partitions in the furnace, secure door fastening and the ability to adjust the air flow. To make similar device with your own hands, you will need to prepare the following elements:

• metal sheet with a thickness of 4 mm or more;
• metal with a thickness of 8-12 mm, from which partitions will be made;
• lattice;
• chimney;
• corners from which the legs will be built;
• welding device.

Manufacturing sequence

From the steel sheet, the first step is to cut out the elements for the body and several partitions that will be mounted on the top of the firebox. They will be able to make a labyrinth for the smoke, as a result of which the efficiency of the stove will increase. In the upper part, you can make a recess for the chimney structure. The recommended recess diameter is 100 mm. Next, you will need to make a recess for the hob with a diameter of 140 mm.

Stove potbelly stove made of sheet steel.

Using a welding device, you need to attach the side elements to the bottom of the structure. To the side walls you will need to attach strips of metal of great thickness. As a result, it will be possible to attach the grate. It can be a sheet of metal with recesses with a diameter of about 20 mm. The lattice can be made of reinforcing bars. At the next stage, supporting elements from a metal strip must be attached to the side walls. After that, the installation of partitions is carried out.

Doors for the firebox and ash pan should be cut out of metal. They can be installed on ordinary hinges. However, a more reliable option is to use curtains from steel pipes and rods. They can be fixed on wedge hecks. Elements are cut from the sheet of stainless steel and then secured with bolts. In order to be able to adjust the intensity of fuel combustion, on the door that closes the ash pan, it is necessary to make a recess for mounting the damper.

To the recess for the chimney structure, you need to attach a sleeve 200 mm high, on which the pipe will be mounted. A damper in the tube will help keep the heat in. For her, it will be necessary to cut a circle from a metal sheet. One extreme part of the steel rod must be bent. After that, several parallel holes will need to be made in the tube. Next, a rod is mounted, after which a round damper is welded to it.

Diagram of a brick fence for a potbelly stove.

The flue pipe must be installed at an angle of 45°. If it passes through a recess in the wall, in this place the part must be wrapped with fiberglass, and then fixed with a cement mixture.

To prevent the occurrence of burns from touching a hot stove, it will be necessary to build a steel protection screen from several sides and place it at a distance of 50 mm. If there is a desire to increase the heat transfer coefficient, the structure can be overlaid with bricks. After the firebox is finished, the brick will heat the house for some time. Laying should be carried out at a distance of 12 cm from the metal body.

The air cushion can become heat protection.

For its implementation, holes for ventilation must be made in the masonry above and below.

The second life of a gas cylinder

It's a good idea for a small stove to reuse containers that can handle a lot of heat. We have already talked about barrels, but how do you like, for example, a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder or even two? These containers are good because they allow you to make a stove yourself for a country house or garage, as vertical arrangement, as well as horizontal.

To create such a potbelly stove, you will need the following tools:

• welding machine;
• grinding machine with circles;
• drill with drills;
• brush with metal bristles;
• tape measure and construction pencil for marking;
• hammer, chisel, pliers.

Materials for making a stove with your own hands need the following:

• 1 or 2 gas cylinders;
• Metal sheet for the ash pan and hob (thickness must be at least 3 mm);
• cast-iron doors (old ones are suitable, for example, from a wood-burning stove, or do-it-yourself made from sheet metal);
• chimney pipe;
• thick metal fittings for the manufacture of legs and grate.

Before starting work in a gas cylinder, open the valve and leave it in this state for at least 12 hours so that the container is ventilated. Another way to clean the cylinder is to fill it to the top with water, and then empty it completely.

Potbelly stove from a gas cylinder

For vertical potbelly stove gas bottle put in a standard position for it, free the neck and make markings for the future firebox and blower. The marked pieces are cut out with a grinder. Separately, a grate is made - for this, cut according to the right size the fittings are welded in the places marked from the bottom of the cylinder.

Hinges are welded to the cylinder, on which the doors are hung. Further, hecks are equipped, which are designed to secure and increase the efficiency of the potbelly stove. A smoke exhaust pipe is welded on top or side of the cylinder.

For a horizontal potbelly stove, the cylinder is installed on the "legs" sideways. A square hole is cut out in it for the door and a round one for the chimney pipe. Instead of a grate, a series of holes are drilled at the bottom, and a rectangular container is welded below the cylinder to collect the ash. The stove is almost ready, it remains to hang the door with your own hands and install a chimney.

If desired, the complete set of vertical and horizontal stoves from gas cylinders can be expanded with a hob made from a sheet of metal attached on top.

Potbelly stove-homemade

Making a potbelly stove with your own hands is easy even without a drawing. Improvised materials are suitable for work, whether it be a gas cylinder, a milk can, a barrel, a piece of pipe, or sheet iron lying around in the garage. Having decided what can be put into action, choose for a potbelly stove with your own hands a drawing of a rectangular or circular section of the combustion chamber.

For example, you need to do the heating yourself in country house and you have an unused milk can (for arranging the stove itself), a bent piece of pipe (for creating a chimney) and a piece metal fittings with a diameter of at least 6 mm (for grate). To make a stove out of all this, it is enough to be friends with the tools, as well as apply a little ingenuity.

Potbelly stove from a can

The can is installed on its side - this is the basis of our do-it-yourself potbelly stove, its combustion chamber. A rectangular blower is sawn under the neck, the edges are processed with a file. The blower can be left in this form, or you can attach a damper to it, getting a stove with adjustable draft at the exit.

In the upper part of the bottom of the can, you yourself need to make markings for the chimney (it should be 2-3 mm smaller than the diameter of the pipe). We cut a hole and tightly drive a piece of pipe adapted for the chimney into it. Half of the work is done.

Next, we deal with the insides of the potbelly stove. With our own hands we make a grate in the form of a “snake” from a metal rod. We introduce the rod into the neck of the can and position it so that the grate stands horizontally in the future combustion chamber. That's all! If desired, you can put the resulting stove on an iron pallet and a rack of bricks. This will help to avoid heating the floor, as well as minimize the likelihood of a fire.

Note that a similar algorithm of actions can also be applied if you want to have a potbelly stove from a barrel. Such stoves cannot boast of long-term burning, but they cope well with the function of quickly heating the room.

Do-it-yourself grate installation

Metals tend to expand when heated. It is for this reason that when installing grates for a fireplace or potbelly stove, it is necessary to make gaps on all sides of at least 5 mm. The ledge on which the grate will be laid must be cut off.

For brick models of the fireplace, the cooled grate should be located one brick below the firebox door. This is necessary to prevent coal from falling onto the floor. Different degrees of heating affect all metals differently, for this very reason, in the case of monolithic fixation of elements. possible deformation or cracks in the masonry.

After laying the grating with your own hands, the grooves are filled with sand without admixture of cement. If the lattice is based on triangular bars, the top should be pointing down.

The main stages in the manufacture of potbelly stoves

1. All details are marked on a sheet of metal: 6 steel rectangles for the walls of the furnace, 1 rectangle for creating a smoke reflector, plates for the grate and a latch for the door. 2. cut out a sheet of metal is possible at any metal base. The guillotine, unlike the grinder, allows you to cut (chop) it more accurately. In this case, straightening (alignment of sheets) will not be necessary.3. The furnace body is made in the form of a rectangle. Their sides are joined together at an angle of 90 ° and welded together.

4. To avoid mistakes, the oven box is first only tacked by welding in several places, and only then, after checking its horizontal and vertical, its seams are welded.

Important! All connections in the body are carefully welded; to check the joints for tightness, you can coat the joints with chalk or kerosene. 5

Welding seams are cleaned with a metal brush.6. The internal space of the potbelly stove is divided into three parts: a firebox, a smoke chamber and an ash pan. To separate the firebox from the ashpit, a grate is laid between them, on which the fuel will be placed. To do this, at a height of 10-15 cm from the bottom of the furnace, 5x5 cm corners are welded on the sides and on the back of the box. On which the grate will be located

5. Welding seams are cleaned with a metal brush.6. The internal space of the potbelly stove is divided into three parts: a firebox, a smoke chamber and an ash pan. To separate the firebox from the ashpit, a grate is laid between them, on which the fuel will be placed. To do this, at a height of 10-15 cm from the bottom of the furnace from the sides and on the back of the box are welded corners 5x5 cm. on which the grid will be located.

Advice. The grate is best made from 2-3 detachable parts. Otherwise, when replacing a burned-out grate, it will be difficult to get it out of the furnace.

7. The grating is welded from thick steel bars or strips 30 mm wide. They are attached to 2 stiffeners - rods with a diameter of 20 mm. Since the grate burns out over time, it is better to make such a grate removable.

Making a grate

8. At a distance of 15 cm from the top of the box, two strong rods are welded on which will be placed one or two removable reflectors- thick-walled metal sheets that will delay the flow of hot gases and send them for afterburning. However, they should not completely block the oven. In order for hot smoke to be able to enter the pipe, about 8 cm is indented from the front (for the first sheet) and the back of the furnace.

Scheme of the passage of gases in the simplest potbelly stove and a furnace with an installed reflector

pipe hole

10. The front part of the stove with holes cut out in it for the doors of the furnace and ash pan, is welded last. 11. The size of the firebox door should be sufficient so that it is possible to load fuel and change the grate without effort. The hole for the ash pan is made a little smaller. 12. The hinges are first welded to the door, and then to the potbelly stove body. They can be bought ready-made or welded from two tubes of different diameters. Door handles can be made from a strip of metal or a bar.

Important! When attaching the doors, they should be adjusted to the body as tightly as possible; for this, they are straightened (aligned) and cleaned with an emery wheel. The wedge locks that close the doors are fitted to the body as tightly as possible

13. On such an oven you can cook food or warm water. To do this, a hole of the required diameter is cut in the upper part of the box. Burner for oven. which will be inserted into this hole, can be purchased at any hardware store.14. For ease of use, the design mounted on legs or a welded pipe stand.15. The chimney is connected to the stove using a sleeve. 16. For inserting a slide gate. regulating the exit of smoke, two holes are drilled in the pipe. A metal rod is inserted into the holes and bent at 90 °. A "penny" made of metal is attached to it in the center of the pipe - a gate, the diameter of which should be slightly less than the diameter of the pipe itself by 3-4 mm.

Smoke damper

Potbelly stove from two barrels

Even more different homemade bourgeoisie. There are a lot of structures. From the most elementary to quite complex designs.

The most common heaters for garages and cottages are potbelly stoves

A very interesting version of this potbelly stove from two barrels of different diameters nested one into the other. How to make it: you need two barrels of different diameters, bricks instead of legs (you can weld metal if you wish), doors and hinges, metal for making a grate and a lid. Pebbles, clay and sand will be needed to make backfill.

Potbelly stove from two barrels

1. Let's start with the manufacture of backfill: mix pebbles, sand and clay and ignite on fire.
2. We cut the same holes in both barrels for the blower and fuel filling. But you need to do it with an offset. We start with a smaller barrel. We cut out the blower door 2-3 cm above the bottom, above it 10-15 cm above the door for laying fuel. We also do it in a larger barrel, but the bottom hole is already at a distance of 10-15 cm from the bottom, respectively, the second door is also higher (the distance between the doors is exactly like on a smaller barrel).
3. In a smaller barrel above the hole for the blower door, weld a grate circle in which holes are cut.
4. At the bottom of the larger barrel, pour the prepared backfill. We select the level so that the holes for the doors coincide. And the barrels are in contact front sides, and a decent distance remains behind. Fill this entire distance with the same backfill, compacting it well.
5. Aligning the holes, weld them around the perimeter, weld hinges and doors, install locks.
6. Next, you need to install the stove cover, cutting a hole in it for the chimney, and weld it well.
7. The last step is to install the chimney.

Everything, the potbelly stove from the barrel is ready. The uniqueness of this design is that it gives softer warmth: most of hard radiation is absorbed by the backfill. This structure can probably even be filled with stones, having finalized the lid so that it is possible to serve the stones (change the destroyed ones).

Whatever design you choose, there are some rules that you should follow in order to comply with fire safety:

• An oven of any design must be placed on a base made of fireproof materials, such as heat-resistant tiles, bricks or asbestos board sheets.
• The dimensions of the oven must be such that the space in front of the oven to the wall is at least 1.2 m.
• Do not place a metal furnace closer than 1 m from the wall. If the bath wall is upholstered with metal or plastered with a layer of at least 2.5 cm, this distance can be reduced to 80 cm.
• Sufficient insulation of the chimney is also very important. It is safest to make it from a sandwich pipe.

Follow these simple rules, and your homemade metal sauna stove will delight you with excellent work and strong heat for a long time. You can read more about how to install a stove in the article "How to install a metal stove for a bath".

Bourgeois schemes

The main advantage of a rectangular stove. unlike oval products made of pipes or gas cylinders, it consists in a larger heated surface area, so its efficiency will be much greater. Optimal size for potbelly stove 800x450x450 mm. An oven of this size does not take up much space and can easily fit even in a small room.

The simplest design is the Gnome stove, which consists of a box with a pipe welded to it.

An important difference loginov ovens is the presence of two plates ( reflectors) in the upper part of the furnace compartment. Because path of gases at the same time, the heat transfer of such a potbelly stove is significantly higher than that of a conventional metal furnace.

Advice. If it is required to reduce the size of the Loginov furnace, then it is desirable to change only its width. When changing the length and height of the structure, its efficiency can be significantly reduced.

Detailed scheme Loginov's potbelly stoves

We make a potbelly stove at work

Diesel fuel and used engine oil are very high-calorie fuels. If you get it inexpensively, then it makes no sense to mess with firewood and coal, it’s easier to make a reliable furnace - a dropper. Its principle of operation is to burn mining, dripping into a red-hot bowl. Moreover, along the way, liquid fuel has time to warm up, as it passes through the oil pipeline built into the pipe - the afterburner. Potbelly stove device drip type shown in detail in the drawing.

For efficient combustion of oil, air is forced into the stove using a fan, and mining flows naturally from a tank suspended from the wall next to the heater. Another option is the forced supply of fuel by pressurizing the fuel tank (for example, with a hand pump).

Both a pipe Ø219 mm and propane tank with a diameter of 30 cm. Making an oil potbelly stove with your own hands is a simple task, the main thing is to make holes and slots in the afterburner correctly and lay the fuel pipe to the bowl installed at the bottom. A complete assembly guide is provided in our other article. You can get a closer look at the operation of the heater from the video:

Increasing the efficiency of the furnace

The potbelly stove is able to heat the room in just a few minutes. Moreover, everything that comes to hand can be thrown into the furnace: since it does not have an extensive network of chimneys, and the smoke in it comes out “directly”, you can not be afraid that they will clog.

But if a conventional heating stove installed in rooms for permanent residence, has an extensive network of chimneys that trap heat, in a potbelly stove it goes directly into the pipe, so its efficiency is not too high. That is why it is too "gluttonous" and requires a lot of fuel.

To reduce fuel consumption, you can use the following tips from experienced stove-makers: firebox door and blower in such an oven should be as tight as possible; otherwise, the air supply to the potbelly stove will increase, and the fuel will burn out too quickly; to regulate the output of warm smoke in the chimney it is desirable to provide a gate valve; next to the oven, you can provide side metal screens at a distance of 5-6 cm from the stove, in which case it will heat the room not only due to heat radiation, but also with the help of convection (warm air circulation); a potbelly stove, “dressed” in a metal casing, will help keep the heat much longer;

Potbelly stove in a casing

Round furnace with an afterburner and a casing with a heat gun

To retain heat in the room, it is necessary to increase the elbow in the pipe; however, at the same time, soot will linger in them, therefore it is desirable to create a collapsible structure; the pipe can also be given a stepped shape: place the knees in stages, with each step making a turn of 30 °; at the same time, each of the knees must be securely attached with bars to the wall;

Stove with chimney elbows

chimney capacity should be less than the productivity of the furnace itself, in which case hot gases will not go into the pipe immediately; its diameter should be only 2.7 times larger than the volume of the furnace, for example, with a furnace volume of 40 liters, the diameter should be 110 mm; you can increase the efficiency of the furnace and with the help of blowing the chimney with a fan- this will turn the stove into a kind of smoke gun; to reduce air circulation firewood in the oven should fit as tightly as possible; if it is heated with coal, it is necessary to stir up the resulting ash as rarely as possible; to adjust the air flow, the door to the blower can be made adjustable by providing it with vertically located slots and shutter. which will cover these gaps; to increase the heating area, it can be ribbed, that is, welded onto its body perpendicular to the furnace metal strips; if you put steam on the stove buckets or metal box with sand. then they will accumulate heat and store it even after the furnace is extinguished; sand backfill or heat accumulator made of stones can be sewn inside the metal body of the furnace;

Scheme of a potbelly stove with sand filling, the furnace is made of a pipe with a diameter of 500 mm, its length is 650 mm

Bake, lined with 1-2 layers of brick. will keep warm much longer;

The volume of the furnace also matters: the more the area of ​​its walls. the more heat they will give into the room; bricks or sheet metal. on which the stove is installed, will help not only to protect the room from fire, but also to keep warm.

Often homeowners prefer to assemble simple and useful homemade from improvised and unnecessary materials, instead of buying ready-made. And the potbelly stove is one of such useful devices.

The main feature of the potbelly stove is that it heats up as quickly as it cools down. Therefore, the scope of its use is narrowed mainly to those rooms where it is necessary to provide fast heating, while the appearance of the device for the user is often completely unimportant.

A do-it-yourself stove-stove can be made, and if desired, upgraded to achieve more efficient heat transfer.

Have you also thought about assembling such a homemade product and do not know where to start? We will help you in the implementation of the task - the article describes the assembly procedure for various options for a home-made furnace, drawings and diagrams are given.

Also discussed in detail are ways to improve a home-made potbelly stove, as a result of which the efficiency of the stove will become noticeably higher.

The choice of furnace design depends on what material is used as fuel. Each user himself determines the degree of its availability and economic feasibility.

It is combustible material that has different temperature and the nature of combustion, dictates the principles for creating various modifications of the device.

The shape of the potbelly stove may be different, often it depends on the availability suitable material. It can be an old can, a gas cylinder, a metal container - everything that is at hand. The main thing when choosing it is the thickness of the metal and the shape, which requires a minimum of alterations.

Image Gallery

In the lower part of the chamber, a grate is placed from the grate (it can be welded from reinforcement), under which ash will accumulate. You can also organize the hob. It is easier to do this on a horizontally located cylinder by welding corners on it on both sides.

Well, if the barrel initially has legs. If not, you need to weld them or install the oven on bricks.

A potbelly stove from a gas cylinder can also be used as a basis for the further construction of a hot water column, as it is also called - "Titan". To do this, install on top of the stove stainless steel container through which the flue pipe passes.

The water in a wood-burning boiler heats up quickly, and little firewood is used - in the summer, one bookmark in a small firebox is enough.

A metal container with walls at least 3 mm thick is also suitable for a potbelly stove. The open top of the container is closed with a circle of metal sheet and brewed.

A hole is cut in the lid or wall for the chimney. Its diameter should be at least 100-150 mm. The top in such a potbelly stove will heat up so much that it will be possible to cook food and heat water on it.

We also have more detailed instructions with diagrams and drawings for manufacturing.

Features of a stove on sawdust

If there is no shortage of sawdust on the farm, then this type of fuel will fully justify its use. Such a potbelly stove does not require frequent loading - compacted sawdust inside does not burn, they slowly smolder, releasing thermal energy gradually and providing warmth for a long time.

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove on sawdust works on the principle of long burning. The slow combustion process allows you to save resources - heat does not fly out instantly into the chimney, heating the atmosphere

The basis of the furnace can be a metal barrel with an open top (if the container is airtight, then the top is cut off) or a pipe with a diameter of 300 to 600 mm.

Then a metal circle is cut out of a sheet, three or more millimeters thick, which should be smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel. In its middle, a hole with a diameter of 100 mm is cut under a cone for ramming sawdust.

The workpiece is welded to the walls of the barrel. With the help of this circle, the ash pan is fenced off - in it, with the help of chips or chips, ignition will be carried out. The height of the ash pan should be 100-200 mm.

A window is cut out below the welded circle, which will serve as a blower. Curtains are welded to the cut piece of metal, making a door for the same hole.

In the lid of the container make an exit to the chimney. The lid should fit tightly on the potbelly stove and be made of a sufficiently thick sheet, otherwise it will quickly burn out.

In order for the sawdust to burn gradually, it is necessary to provide a limited supply of oxygen to the fuel compartment. To do this, a cone-shaped core is inserted inside the firebox, sawdust is poured around it and rammed. The cone is carefully removed, scrolling, put a lid on the barrel

You can improve the same model by adding an additional cylinder. In this version, sawdust will be in the inner chamber, and the space between the two compartments will serve to burn gases and increase the heating area. In this embodiment, the exit of flue gases is arranged in the lower part of the stove.

How can a potbelly stove be improved?

An ordinary potbelly stove has a lot of positive qualities, but also has many significant drawbacks. She is unable to accumulate heat and heats the room while the fire is burning. Requires continuous fuel supply, on average - every 30-40 minutes.

Besides, a large number of heat flies out through the chimney into the atmosphere, without benefiting. That is why work on improving the potbelly stove is carried out without stopping.

The standard design of the potbelly stove has many modernized designs that allow you to:

• save fuel;
• increase the efficiency of the stove;
• increase heat capacity;
• reduce the frequency of refueling.

The most common methods for improving the efficiency of a potbelly stove are the creation of a slow burning mode, a gas afterburning system, and the installation of heat-resistant lining of the inner walls.

You can also improve the quality indicators of the stove by increasing the heat transfer area with the help of welded pipes and an installed fan that will drive air flows through them.

The industrial model of such a potbelly stove is called Buleryan, but besides it, there are many more various designs made in a handicraft way. We recommend watching a detailed master class on homemade production.

You can increase the heat transfer time by lining the oven with brickwork. Such a potbelly stove will heat up more slowly, but it will also give off heat longer, maintaining the temperature in the room for some time after the fire has died out.

Are you interested in brickwork? We have a detailed do-it-yourself manual with diagrams and drawings on our website.

Option # 1 - an oven with an increased fuel load

This model is designed to increase efficiency and continuous burning time. They take as a basis a horizontal rectangular potbelly stove on massive, stable legs and supplement it with a cassette from a deaf sealed cylinder. Such constructive additions significantly increase its efficiency.

A flange is welded to the cassette cylinder with a height of about 400 mm. After installing the cylinder in the burner hole, its edge should fall 5-10 mm below the stove. To make it convenient to install and remove the cylinder, handles are welded to its body.

The cylinder is filled with firewood in such a way that there is some space between them and when it is installed on the stove, they can immediately fall on burning coals

How does a potbelly stove work:

1. The lower part of the firewood, having fallen on the coals of the pre-ignition, flares up. In this case, the upper part, located in the cassette, will not burn due to a lack of oxygen, but will be dried under the action of hot smoke.
2. Under the weight of its own mass and as it burns, the firewood gradually sinks into the firebox.
3. The hot gas, which has been in the cylinder for some time, gives it heat, thereby increasing the heat transfer area in the room. In this case, the cylinder cover can serve as a cooking surface.
4. At the same time, the temperature of the outgoing smoke decreases, which means that the heat capacity and efficiency of the potbelly stove increase.

As a result of such modernization, the time interval between laying firewood increases and the efficiency of using the stove increases.

Option # 2 - long-burning potbelly stove "Bubafonya"

The low efficiency of an ordinary potbelly stove is a fact that has long been known and verified by many users.

One of the methods to increase it is to slow down the combustion process by limiting the flow of air into the combustion chamber. This improvement can be found in such stoves as "Bubafonya", "Filipina".

Use this model of a potbelly stove in non-residential premises - workshops, greenhouses, and other outbuildings. For work within 9-12 hours, one bookmark of small firewood, chips, sawdust is enough. In this model of the heating device, coarsely chopped and damp firewood cannot be used.

Potbelly stove can be created from any metal tank. Most often they use a barrel of fuels and lubricants or an old cylinder.

Production is carried out in the following sequence:

• A combustion chamber is prepared from an accessible cylindrical container, in the upper part of which a hole is cut out for the chimney.
• From metal (at least 10 mm in thickness), a circle is cut out, slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel.
• A hole with a diameter of 100-150 mm is made in the center of the circle (the exact size depends on the diameter of the pipe used for the rod).
• Ribs up to 50 mm high are welded onto one of the planes of the circle.
• A pipe is welded to the center of the circle. Its length is calculated in such a way that the piston in the lowered state rises above the tank cover by approximately 100 mm. If you leave the pipe longer than necessary, draft will appear in it, it will begin to smoke.
• Next, they construct a lid that will fit tightly on the barrel and cut a hole in it suitable for the piston pipe

You can further increase the efficiency of this model by organizing the flow of air into the furnace from the street. Thus, the heated air from the room will not fly out into the chimney.

Option # 3 - Filipina secondary afterburner

In the operation of the furnace, two methods were used to increase its efficiency, based on the principles of long-term combustion and pyrolysis. For its manufacture, you will need two gas cylinders, which will serve as chambers for primary and secondary combustion.

The sequence of steps for making a potbelly stove is as follows:

1. Cylinders are prepared for work by releasing the remaining gas from them and filling them with water. Without this procedure, it is absolutely impossible to cut them, otherwise the sparks that form during the operation of the grinder can provoke a gas explosion, some of which always remains in the cylinder.
2. In the first cylinder, which will serve as a chamber for the furnace and ash pan, the tap is removed and the top is cut off (it is used to make a door), a hole is cut out for installing a chimney.
3. Opposite the hole for the chimney, a pipe is welded, the other end of which should not rest against the cover of the second chamber, leaving free space for smoke to escape.
4. At the outlet of the pipe from the first cylinder, a metal ring is welded, it will serve as a support for installing the upper cylinder. Holes are drilled in it.
5. A metal ring is also welded to the second cylinder in the place where the top is cut, in which the places for the holes are marked, focusing on the holes already made in the first ring.
6. Before finally installing the second cylinder, an air supply pipe is inserted into it.
7. The upper chamber is put on the pipe, aligning the holes, a heat-resistant tourniquet is wound between the rings, and the connection is fixed with screws.
8. The chimney outlet is made from the bottom of the secondary afterburner chamber.

To obtain a stable structure, reliable legs are welded to the lower chamber. Install awning doors. It can be further improved by adding the ability to regulate the air entering the furnace.

Very often, a potbelly stove is used to heat the garage. And you can do it yourself, but you don’t need to spend money for this. It is enough to look in the bins for unnecessary metal parts.

Advantages and disadvantages of a potbelly stove for a garage

A potbelly stove is rightfully considered the most practical way of heating in winter. This is a small design, which is practically portable, capable of heating any room, regardless of the temperature outside and other climatic conditions. This is its main advantage. However, in modern conditions, a potbelly stove is used exclusively for heating outbuildings, for example, a garage. And this is due to a large number of disadvantages:

• the stove cools down quickly, which means that in order to maintain a constant temperature in the room, it must always be on;
• uneconomical for the same reason;
• fire hazard, so when installing it, care must be taken to protect the nearby wall and floor.

However, its omnivorousness allows you to save a little on the purchase of fuel, especially considering the almost 100% efficiency of such a device.

The potbelly stove has a special design, thanks to which you can get high efficiency

Design and principle of operation

The peculiarity of the stove-potbelly stove is that it does not require the construction of a foundation and the arrangement of a capital chimney. In most cases, it is because of this that it is chosen for use in the garage. This room does not always have electricity or a gas pipeline, which means that a potbelly stove is the only solution to the heating problem.

Potbelly stove does not require the construction of a foundation

This design is a metal box with a door and a pipe, which is brought out of the heated room.

The pipe can also serve as a heated element, if you modify it a little. Make it stepped rather than straight, which will allow hot air to linger in it a little.

Calculation of basic parameters (with drawings and dimensions)

The high efficiency of a potbelly stove can only be obtained if all the main design parameters are correctly calculated.

Pipe

In this case, the diameter of this element is very important. The throughput of the chimney should be less than the performance of the furnace furnace, which is the main distinguishing feature of the potbelly stove. This will allow warm air not immediately leave the stove, but linger in it and heat the surrounding air.

It is very important to make exact calculation for her. The diameter should be 2.7 times the volume of the firebox. In this case, the diameter is determined in millimeters, and the volume of the furnace in liters. For example, the volume of the furnace part is 40 liters, which means that the diameter of the chimney should be about 106 mm.

If the stove provides for the installation of grates, then the height of the furnace is considered without taking into account the volume of this part, that is, from the top of the grate.

Screen

It is very important to make the hot gases not cool down, but completely burn out. In addition, the fuel must be burned by partial pyrolysis, which requires an extremely high temperature. A metal screen, which is located on three sides of the stove, will help to achieve a similar effect. You need to put it at a distance of 50–70 mm from the walls of the stove, so that most of the heat will return to the stove. This movement of air will give the necessary high temperature and protect from fire.

The screen of a potbelly stove made of red brick is able to accumulate heat

bedding

She must be. There are two reasons for this:

• part of the heat is radiated downward;
• the floor on which the stove stands is heated, which means there is a risk of fire.

The litter solves two of these problems at once. It can be used as a metal sheet with an extension of 350 mm (ideally 600 mm) beyond the contour of the furnace itself. There are also more modern materials that do an excellent job with this task, for example, a sheet of asbestos or kaolin cardboard, at least 6 mm thick.

Asbestos sheet can be used for bedding under a potbelly stove

Chimney

Despite all the calculations, gases sometimes go into the chimney not completely burned out. Therefore, it must be done in a special way. The chimney consists of:

• vertical part (1–1.2 m), which is recommended to be wrapped with heat-insulating material;
• burs (slightly inclined part or completely horizontal), 2.5–4.5 m long, which must be 1.2 m (from wooden surface by 1.5 m), from the floor - by 2.2 m.

The chimney must be brought outside

Photo gallery: diagrams for a potbelly stove for a garage

On the diagram you need to indicate all the exact measurements The chimney must be led outside Potbelly stove can be round or square The volume of the furnace depends on the presence of grate The scheme of the potbelly stove depends on the material used

Necessary materials and tools

To make a potbelly stove with your own hands you will need:

• welding inventory (or any other welding machine if you have relevant experience);
• chisel;
• soft cloth (you can use rags);
• hammer;
• sandpaper (fine-grained).

The list of materials depends on what capacity the potbelly stove will be made from. It can be a gas cylinder or a milk flask. If you have some experience with metal, then a potbelly stove can be made from sheet material. However, you definitely need to take care of the availability:

• refractory bricks;
• steel pipes;
• metal wire;
• grate (in some cases, you can do without them);
• branch pipe with a wind vane;
• door hinges.

Preparatory work before assembling the furnace: choosing a place

The use of a potbelly stove in the garage, like any other heating device, requires compliance with safety rules. First of all, this concerns the installation location of the device. The corner of the garage, which is located near the walls opposite to the gate of the room, is ideal for this.

Remember that you can not put the stove in close proximity to the car. The distance between them should be at least 1.5 m. A similar distance should be from objects that are easily flammable, for example, from barrels of gasoline.

The walls near the potbelly stove should be protected with refractory material

The distance from the potbelly stove to the wall depends on what material the garage is built from. If it is a tree, then there should be at least 1 m from the stove to the wall. In addition, it is recommended to protect them with asbestos slabs.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for making a potbelly stove for a garage

The method of manufacturing a potbelly stove depends on its shape and the material used.

Classic stove-stove

For the manufacture of such a design, it is necessary to have certain skills in working with a welding machine. All work consists of several steps:

1. Make 5 blanks from sheet metal.

   Blanks need to be cut from sheet metal

2. weld side surfaces to the bottom. Make sure that they are located strictly vertically relative to each other, which will help the use of a level or building square.
3. Weld the back wall.
4. The internal space is conditionally divided into three parts: smoke circulation, furnace part and ash pan. In the last two, install a grate. To do this, at a height of 10-15 cm, you need to weld the corners over the entire length. For the grating itself, it is recommended to use thick sheet steel 25–30 mm wide, from which strips must be cut. The distance between the plates should be 5 cm. The rods themselves must be welded to two rods, which give the lattice rigidity.
5. From above, it is necessary to weld two metal rods that are needed to locate the reflector (a sheet that separates the furnace and smoke circulation), the reflector must be positioned in such a way that a channel for smoke is formed.

   Grid-irons and a potbelly stove are not obligatory elements

6. Weld the lid of the potbelly stove, not forgetting the hole for the pipe. Cut and weld the top jumper. Do the same with the narrower part.
7. Make a door. It is recommended to do it over the entire width of the stove so that the grate and reflector can be removed without problems during cleaning and repair. Do not forget that the door must be equipped with a handle, latch and curtains.
8. Install the structure on legs, which can be made of metal pipe 2–3 cm in diameter. You should not make them too high. 8-10 cm will be enough. If desired, they can be equipped with bolts, which will allow you to adjust the height.
9. Make a chimney from a pipe with a diameter of 15–18 cm. To output it, you need to make a hole in the wall of the appropriate size. The pipe consists of three parts, which are connected to each other at an angle of 45°.

   The pipe must not have horizontal parts

10. At the lower end of the chimney it is necessary to make a rotating damper. It can also be made from sheet metal, but the diameter should be slightly smaller than the hole in the pipe. You also need to provide a handle that would move this damper.
11. You need to fix the pipe on a sleeve measuring 15–20 cm, which is welded through the hole to the top cover.
12. Install the stove, adjust its height.

    When using sheet metal, you can make a potbelly stove of any size

Video: do-it-yourself original potbelly stove for a garage

Milk can oven

Making such an oven is quite easy, you just need to follow the step-by-step instructions:

Video: potbelly stove for a garage from a gas cylinder

Operation features

During operation homemade potbelly stove it is very important to follow certain rules. This is necessary not only for the safety of its use, but also for a long service life. Those rules are:

• it is necessary to maintain a safe distance between the walls of the furnace itself and the walls of the room (a distance of 50 cm is considered ideal);
• the chimney must be taken out to the street, in no case should it be paired with the garage ventilation system (very often this desire arises when the stove is installed in the basement of the garage), since this is the only way to guarantee sufficient draft for full combustion;
• places where the pipe is brought out into the street must be insulated with asbestos or other non-combustible material;
• you can increase the efficiency of the potbelly stove by insulating the room itself;
• next to the potbelly stove, it is necessary to install a box of sand and a fire extinguisher, as this is required by fire safety rules.

How to improve oven performance

Such an oven has one significant drawback - it cools down very quickly. However, this is very easy to fix with a brick screen that is installed on three sides of the structure. This will allow you to accumulate heat and give it to the room even after the stove stops burning.

You need to place it at a distance of 5-7 cm from the walls of the stove, in no case back to back. In this case, you need to take care of the presence of ventilation holes.

The screen should not be close to the walls of the stove

A construction with a brick screen will weigh much more than a conventional metal potbelly stove, so it is recommended that you first build an individual foundation.

In some cases, it may be necessary to install an individual foundation. Making it is very simple:

1. Dig a hole about 50 cm deep. All other dimensions depend on the size of the stove itself and the screen.
2. Fill the bottom of the pit with sand (usually it takes about 3-4 buckets), after which it needs to be rammed. Cover the sand with a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm, also tamp.
3. Level the backfill, pour cooked cement mortar. Leave for a day (it is possible for several, the foundation will only benefit from this).
4. Cover the base with several layers of roofing material.
5. Now you can start laying out the screen in a brick floor. In this case, the first two rows should be laid out in continuous masonry directly on the roofing material. In the 3rd-4th row, it is necessary to make ventilation gaps. Continue continuous laying.
6. The screen is recommended to do without the top overlap.

How to properly clean a stove

The design features of such a stove make it possible to clean it quite rarely.

This is one of the advantages of the potbelly stove. However, periodically the chimney must be cleaned of soot residues. To do this, you can use a special brush. You can make it yourself. Attach a cylindrical brush to the rope. It is recommended to take a brush with plastic or iron bristles. At the same time, you need to pick it up in such a way that it squeezes into a narrow chimney pipe without any problems.

The cleaning process itself occurs in the following sequence:

1. Close the opening of the firebox and plug it with a rag.
2. Make several movements with the brush (you need to stop when the brush began to move without resistance). Wait.
3. Remove any food that has gone down to the sump.

All this must be done very carefully, since the chimney of bourgeois women is not very strong.

A homemade potbelly stove in the garage can be a reliable and effective assistant in the fight against winter frosts. And if you do it yourself, then the efficiency of the device can be increased many times over.