To choose what to close pile foundation outside, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the advantages and disadvantages different materials. There are several ways to cover such a base. In any case, the basement is waterproofed during the construction process. The choice of materials depends on the budget and tastes of the home owner.
Hanging structures
Suspended structures help to quickly cover the pile foundation of a house. Their installation work includes the following steps:
- First, the sheathing is made. The frame is attached to the piles. It can be either wooden or metal. If wood is chosen, all structural elements must be treated with an antiseptic.
- Thermal panels are installed on the sheathing. Asbestos-cement slabs and slate sheets are also suitable.
- The corners are being brought together.
- Then droppers and other elements are installed.
To decide how to close the foundation of your house, it is worth getting acquainted with the scaffolding device.
Pickup device
The fence is a protective structure that allows you to reduce heat loss through the base and increase the aesthetic appeal of the building. It also covers the pile foundation of the house, performing the function decorative element.To build the structure you will need:
- Dig a trench at a depth of 0.5 m. It is necessary that it goes under the wall. This will allow water to drain more efficiently. To prevent moisture from accumulating in the trench, it is worth making a slight slope away from the wall.
- Place a waterproofing layer in the ditch. The perimeter of the building is equipped with drainage pipes.
- The trench must be filled with sand and then compacted.
- Install brackets on the piles on which the guides will be hung.
- Siding is attached to the guides. It should be impregnated with a protective composition.
- There should be a distance between the siding and the concrete. This is necessary so that when the soil deforms, the lining remains intact.
- Install flashings on the siding (as in the photo).
There are other options for sheathing the pile foundation of a private house:
- decorate the base with finishing bricks, arranging your own sand cushion with masonry;
- install purlins on the piles, which will become the basis for hanging budget sheet material (for example, asbestos cement or fiberboard);
- a frame made of wooden blocks or metal profiles is attached to the piles, onto which decorative elements are hung.
So, how to cover a pile foundation to make it look beautiful and be more practical? Before purchasing a specific material, it is worth considering the advantages and disadvantages of popular options.
How to close
When facing a pile foundation, stone is a particularly popular material. It has an aesthetic appearance and fairly high strength. When facing pile foundations of private houses, both natural and artificial stone are equally often used. Cladding siding is in demand (it is easy to install and differs affordable price), as well as brick and plastic. Facing plaster has become widespread. Before covering the foundation with a certain material, you should consider popular options.
A natural stone
It is worth choosing for those who prefer durability and strength. The most reliable options are marble and granite. However, such surfaces will require considerable care.
Any stones are suitable for lining a pile foundation, regardless of their weight. They differ only in price - light ones are cheaper. The tiles, which are made of natural stone, are fixed using cement mortar. Also, special glue is often used for this purpose. The pile foundation will be carefully camouflaged.
If heavy tiles are used, you cannot do without reinforcement. Otherwise they may fall off. If light breeds are used, it is worth remembering about moisture absorption. This may not affect appearance cladding, but the connecting layer will easily collapse. To avoid such problems, it is worth treating the tiles with a hydrophobic compound.
Fake diamond
Artificial stone is a material that looks like natural stone, but costs much less and weighs less. This is the main reason for its popularity.
Artificial stone is produced from clay, lightweight concrete and expanded clay. The finished products are presented in the form of tiles of various shapes. This simplifies the process of installing them on a pile foundation. To create a custom design using artificial stone, you can purchase special layers that have no shape. For better gluing of tiles or layers of them back side has a relief. Covering the outside of the pile foundation of a house with such material will not be difficult.
Flexible tiles
When designing a plinth on a budget, it is often used flexible tiles. In order for it to be as compatible as possible with the exterior of the facade, it is worth choosing a texture that is most similar to stone.
Shingles on which a certain pattern is applied are glued to sheet material. They should be additionally secured with self-tapping screws. For the corners of the home (external and internal) they are purchased as valleys and ridges.
Basement siding
Acrylic or vinyl siding will become excellent option design of a pile foundation. Acrylic siding is more expensive, but it does not fade, is weather-resistant and has less linear expansion. High-quality imitation of brick is only possible when using this type of siding - it is characterized by high color saturation.
A significant drawback of such panels when designing a pile foundation is their limited size (1.2x0.5 m). If the base of the house has a height greater or less than this format, large quantity waste cannot be avoided. Siding can be used to cover not only the pile foundation, but also the entire building.
Composite panels
Polymer sand and fiber cement panels are more popular when designing a pile foundation. Sand concrete, which contains polymer additives, has much greater weight. However, it is highly wear-resistant and durable. You can cover the outer sides of the base with this material for any type of house.
For walk-through areas, you should choose sand concrete slabs. If the blind area of the house does not serve as a walking path, you should limit yourself to fiber cement panels. This material is often used to cover the base of a wooden house.
Corrugated sheet
Represents one of the most available options design of a pile foundation. If you mount corrugated sheets vertically on a false base, you get minimal overlap, which reduces the cost of materials. There is no cutting waste. Any supplier has the opportunity to order sheets of a certain size. The only drawback of this design is that the building will resemble an industrial building.
Basic Rules
The following rules will help increase the durability of a pile foundation:
- It is necessary to make holes in the base for ventilation;
- the pile foundation will be protected from destruction with properly equipped waterproofing.
To finish a pile foundation, you should not make a wooden frame. The area under the house is often subject to moisture, which contributes to changes in the geometry of the wooden elements. The tree will also actively rot.
To insulate a pile foundation, hygroscopic materials are not used - cellulose insulation, mineral wool, etc. They quickly absorb moisture and lose their thermal insulation properties. Even if the insulation is covered with a moisture-proof film, after a while water will penetrate to the vulnerable material.
In construction important point is insulation and protection from external factors any element, its quality will affect energy costs, optimal microclimate and service life of building parts. Since the basis of any building is the foundation, I will talk below about its decorative finishing and protecting the basement floor from moisture and other factors.
Finishing the foundation with facing stone
Which material to choose
Covering the foundation is a completely doable task with your own hands, the main thing is to choose best material, which will combine all the necessary properties. By the way, facing the foundation can also be done during the repair of the old foundation. First, you need to understand why foundation cladding is needed? Although the foundations of houses are built from durable materials, they also need to be protected from moisture, precipitation, wind, mechanical damage and other unfavorable factors. Therefore, facing the foundation is initially the protection of the foundation of the house and its preservation operational properties for a long time. Also, treating the base will help protect the basement from moisture and cold and decorate the house. Since the construction market is replete with necessary materials, our task is to choose the best one.
Finishing the base with stone
A common finish is decorative plaster, its qualities and properties in modern construction do everything the necessary conditions for high-quality surface treatment. This finish is an inexpensive and unpretentious option for decorating and protecting the foundation.
But I would not use plaster for several reasons - firstly, it is a labor-intensive process, and secondly, there are many other materials that can provide high-quality protection for the house and create a noble appearance. Moreover, protection ground floor from cold and moisture requires thermal insulation qualities.
Of course, you can use various sidings and slabs, but nothing brings as much nobility to a home as facing stone. Therefore, I opt for sandstone, and you will find out what it is below.
Natural stone cladding
Noble finishes
The foundation cladding should not only fulfill its intended purpose, but also act as a decorative element of the basement floor. Natural stone has always been noble and durable building material, so finishing the base with stone looks harmonious and rich.
Do-it-yourself plinth finishing
Choosing from all the options, I settled on sandstone, which has many properties:
- Facing stone is a natural building material, time-tested. Its lifespan is simply staggering, more likely to require a home renovation than an old sandstone. The brick foundation, lined with sandstone, looks noble and natural.
- The strength of the material allows it to withstand heavy physical loads, so elements protected by sandstone are not susceptible to mechanical damage.
- Repairing an old base using sandstone treatment will help create excellent protection against moisture.
- Due to the ease of installation, you can cover the brick foundation with your own hands.
- Due to its porous structure, sandstone has some thermal insulation properties, which allows to reduce heat loss through the basement floor.
- Facing stone is excellent for finishing various surfaces, be it the facade of a house, interior walls or a brick foundation.
- The facing stone looks equally harmonious on both brick house, which is on the wooden one. Not everyone will be able to imagine the look created by a cottage whose base is lined with sandstone.
- The natural texture and patterns of sandstone fit well into a variety of architectural styles.
Finishing the base with natural stone
Combining all of the above advantages, facing stone perfectly protects a brick foundation or any other type of foundation. It is worth noting that a brick foundation is the optimal surface for finishing natural material. This base is easy to process, which allows you to cover the surface with sandstone with your own hands in a short time.
Covering foundation surfaces
Facing stone is a fairly undemanding element, so you can do the renovation of an old basement floor from the outside yourself.
The following tools were useful to me for the repair:
- A metal brush is necessary for preparing the surface and cleaning it.
- A chisel and hammer will be needed in case of repair, to remove the old coating (plaster).
- The ax was useful to me in making notches for better adhesion to the surface.
- I prepared a spray bottle or brush to apply the primer.
Finishing the foundation with stone
If the foundation is not uniform, which is rare, a construction mesh is used, I did without it.
Having prepared the necessary tools, I began the repair. outer surface basement floor. He did all the necessary work to prepare the surface, cleaned it well and coated it with a high-quality primer. Next, I took a specialized glue for stone laying and began laying out my future masterpiece step by step. The seams between the elements were filled with mortar and carefully processed. In the end it turned out great view basement floor.
We start doing the cladding from the corner
Finishing a screw foundation
Houses with a brick foundation have a huge advantage over their counterparts. The fact is that the construction of a pile foundation does not allow finishing with sandstone, so the question immediately arises - how to cover the pile foundation from the outside. For me, this question was quite interesting, because it is simply necessary to protect the basement from moisture and cold, and it is necessary to decorate the bottom of the building. But if a brick foundation can be finished with sandstone, then what kind of solution can be found here?
Why come up with such a complex base, which is then difficult to choose a finish for, you ask. But a screw foundation is the only optimal solution for unstable and heaving soils. It is the screw foundation that is able to penetrate to great depths and provide reliable support for the house. And the choice of finishing for the base is quite possible using a material such as corrugated sheet.
Covering the base with a metal profile
This material appeared back in 1820 and became very widespread in the construction industry. The corrugated sheet is made of galvanized steel using cold rolling, after which it is subjected to the creation of the required shape - trapezoidal, wavy. This is done more to add rigidity than for beauty. Corrugated sheet is a unique material used in the construction of new buildings and renovation of old ones. Steel sheets are used not only for finishing basement floors, but also for repairing roofs and walls. In the assortment you can find profiled sheets for facing stone or “wooden” elements. I was very pleased with this choice, because it makes it easy to create a unique style with your own hands.
In the assortment you can find profiled sheets for facing stone or “wooden” element
Do-it-yourself cladding of a screw base
Typically, screw foundations are used in the construction of light houses, for example, wooden ones. That's why decorative finishing screw foundation must be in harmony with wooden elements. Fortunately, I have found a variety of profiled sheets with imitation stone that goes well with wooden houses. The result is an imitation of a completely natural, natural house.
Profiled sheet “under the stone”
Sheathing a screw foundation is not a difficult task, so I took it on myself and, adhering to the following scheme, did an excellent job:
- For the base of the sheets I made wooden sheathing, having previously soaked the parts with an antiseptic solution.
- To avoid deformation of the sheets under the influence of heaving soils, I left a gap between the ground and the element. To do this, I filled the junction of the earth and parts with sand to a depth of 500 mm.
- I used self-tapping screws to attach the sheets to the wooden sheathing. To avoid dents, I tried not to overtighten the fasteners.
- I covered the joints of the material and the corners with additional elements.
This is how, with a little effort, you can cover your foundation yourself.
As soon as the frame of the new house is ready, you need to think about finishing the foundation. It is important to choose the right one finishing option, taking into account the type of plinth and the overall design of the facade. Otherwise, finishing the outside of the foundation of the house with your own hands or with the help of hired workers will look careless and will not be combined with overall design. So, what materials are most popular for cladding the plinth?
Why do you need a base anyway? This is the lower part of the external walls, located at the very foot of the house and designed to protect underground space from the external environment. In a number of buildings this is a separate element, erected directly above the foundation, in others it is a single whole with it.
Be that as it may, the bases must be additionally protected by finishing from moisture, dust, wind and other environmental influences. The plinths also differ in the type of location in relation to the plane of the facade. Here are the main types:
- Sunken- the easiest option to use. Due to the design of the base, there is no need to install additional drains, since it is protected from water and snow by a wall protruding above it. Such bases are easier to protect from aggressive influences environment, as well as from mechanical damage. If we consider this type from a design point of view, then sunken plinths look the most attractive.
- Base protruding from under the wall- option for buildings with enough thin walls or if the basement provides warm room. It requires a mandatory drain, otherwise water and snow, accumulating on the ledge, will gradually destroy the foundation of the house.
- Plinth flush with the wall. This design is used very rarely, since it is difficult to ensure the required degree of waterproofing of the foundation of the building.
From a practicality point of view, plinths are best made from materials such as monolithic concrete, a natural stone or fired bricks due to their high strength. However, it cannot be said that the concrete base looks quite beautiful, so front finishing is necessary - it will add additional attractiveness to the house.
Whatever finishing material is chosen for the base, the foundation in any case must be protected with a layer of waterproofing and only after that the facing work can begin. What materials are best to use for this?
Finishing the base with plaster
To cover the base, any decorative plaster is used; it can be textured or smooth, marbled, colored, etc. In any case, preliminary treatment of the walls is necessary - cleaning and priming. Some types of plasters require the additional application of a special mineral-based reinforcing paint.
If, having examined the base before work, you notice rather impressive irregularities, potholes, protrusions or geometric errors, be sure to install a reinforcing mesh before applying plaster. This is necessary for better adhesion of the plaster solution to the base.
A mesh will also be needed if the wall is perfectly flat, but the plaster layer is thicker than 1.2 cm. The reinforcing material can be anything - fabric, welded or wicker; the choice depends only on the thickness of the layer. If you plan to apply the plaster in a thin layer, you can use fiberglass. Reinforcement is needed not only for adhesion, but also to protect the coating from cracking during operation.
When applying plaster, you can show your imagination - the surface can be with patterns, cross-stitching, imprints, or simply rough or smooth. The grain size of the plaster also affects the appearance. Facade paints of a suitable color are often used as a finishing layer.
More complex finishing options
Do-it-yourself finishing of the basement of a house can be done using a variety of materials. The most popular of them:
- natural stone (marble, granite, sandstone, limestone);
- porcelain stoneware;
- ceramic tile;
- siding panels and other materials.
When choosing the type of finish, you should focus not only on specifications material and the complexity of installation, but also on the aesthetic aspect - the finishing must be in harmony with both the main facade and the roof, lining of doors and windows, and even with the staircase railing, if any.
Facing with siding
Siding is one of the most versatile finishing materials, since it can easily be used when finishing any surfaces. Depending on the design tasks assigned to it, the panels can be an imitation of natural brick, ship timber, natural stone or slate. Installation of siding panels is so simple that even beginners will not have any difficulties with it - just stock up necessary tools and strictly follow the instructions.
Basement siding as a finish has a number of advantages:
- High strength, ability to withstand high loads.
- Color resistance to ultraviolet radiation - it will not fade over time.
- Easy to install.
- High waterproofing qualities - the material does not absorb or allow water to pass through.
- Service life up to 50 years.
- Good resistance to any mechanical damage.
Important: These qualities are typical for basement siding; it should not be confused with the usual siding used for the front walls of a house.
Despite the external similarity, siding panels for the plinth are much stronger and more reliable, and the base material contains special substances. It is due to them that the panels acquire higher performance characteristics than conventional facade siding.
The most organic look is finishing the base with stone or brick. Siding panels that imitate the real thing masonry, in terms of strength and resistance to external factors, no worse than its natural counterpart.
This siding does not require additional processing after installation. The vinyl on which the panels are made requires no painting, no caulking of the seams between the panels, no scheduled work to renovate the façade. For decades, vinyl will not crack and looks like new, and its waterproofing qualities do not deteriorate over time.
Siding is a lightweight material, which is why it is so easy to install. The panels practically do not put pressure on the foundation, so there is no need for additional reinforcement. This material is suitable for both new buildings and very old houses. Finishing the base with wood is no exception, but in this case it is necessary to take care of breathability.
If we talk about price, the purchase of material and work will cost a little more than when using polymer panels. Some, choosing between these two seemingly similar materials, acquire more economical option. However, in pursuit of savings, it is worth considering that siding, although more expensive, is stronger and more reliable than PVC.
PVC basement façade finishing
Even the strongest foundation needs reliable protection from aggressive environmental influences - precipitation, sun, temperature changes, mold, etc. In addition, it is the base that takes on almost all mechanical damage; it is easy to touch it with a tool when, for example, mowing the lawn Location on. Protecting the foundation should be taken more seriously than the rest of the house.
At the same time, it is important to choose not only high-quality and durable cladding material, its appearance should be combined with both the decoration of the house and the surrounding landscape. If you choose the wrong material, you may not get much beautiful design.
The second most popular material after siding is PVC panels for exterior decoration. According to the experience of many designers and builders, these panels have several undeniable advantages:
- Due to the thicker layer, PVC base slabs can withstand impressive loads on the facade.
- The appearance remains unchanged for decades.
- The panels are resistant to any chemical and biological substances.
- PVC is not afraid of severe frosts and fire.
PVC panels are easy to install - the elements are assembled according to the principle of a puzzle. To securely fasten the slabs to the wall, it is necessary to use self-tapping screws and a prudently installed wooden or metal carcass.
With the help of PVC panels you can kill two birds with one stone - ensure reliable protection foundation of the building and give the house a complete and beautiful appearance. Due to the wide range of colors and the abundance of a wide variety of textures (imitations of natural materials such as stone, marble slabs, sea pebbles or red brick), you can decorate the facade in any style: from calm classic to artsy modern.
In addition, the panels are able to hide most of the foundation defects that arose during its construction - unevenness, potholes and others.
If you want to complete the renovation as quickly as possible, PVC plinth panels are exactly the option that you will like in terms of price, quality and ease of installation.
Stone finishing
Natural stone slabs for home cladding will never go out of fashion. This is the most reliable and durable material of all for finishing the base. Previously, due to the high cost of raw materials stone houses were the privilege of only very rich and noble people, in our time stone is just one of the options facade finishing.
Thanks to the variety of prices, you can choose the option that suits you. It is not at all necessary to clad the façade with expensive marble or granite; you can easily opt for lighter and more inexpensive sandstone.
Regardless of the cost of the material, the stone facade looks luxurious and presentable, and the protective characteristics of the stone are superior to any other materials - it is not afraid of damage, chemical compositions, fire, water, precipitation, ultraviolet radiation and mold. Such a base will last for more than one generation. However, despite the obvious advantages relative to other materials, natural stone has no less impressive disadvantages. The main part comes down to:
- high weight and, as a result, very difficult installation - finishing the base with stone with your own hands is quite difficult;
- strengthening the foundation, otherwise it simply will not support the weight of the stone;
- very high price.
However, despite the steep prices and upcoming installation difficulties, many choose this particular finishing option - the advantages of natural stone outweigh its disadvantages on all fronts. With a stone plinth, you don’t have to worry about the reliability and safety of the foundation.
Porcelain tiles as finishing
If natural stone is too expensive a finishing option, but you want to give the facade an impressive and rich look, you can use porcelain stoneware - artificial appearance stone In terms of its qualities, it is in no way inferior to its natural and more expensive counterpart.
Porcelain tiles are characterized by a low degree of water absorption, which, on the one hand, makes it resistant to even the most severe frosts, and on the other hand, limits the installation methods. Such a stone is mounted either using special adhesive mixtures or using a frame.
Important: cement cannot be used as a binding element - in the first winter the stone may peel off from the wall.
Porcelain stoneware is quite diverse in appearance; its surface can be matte or glossy, satin, glazed or intentionally aged. The finish with an imitation of the texture of fabric, genuine leather or the so-called wild stone looks very beautiful and unusual.
Installation of porcelain stoneware differs little from the technology of cladding using plinth siding panels, so everything necessary work you can do it yourself. Main stages:
- Preliminary preparation of the base. Thoroughly clean the surface of the foundation from dirt, dust and small debris, prime the base. Calculate in advance required material, but the dimensions of porcelain stoneware panels can be adjusted right before installation, which is especially convenient when finishing corners.
- The method of fastening largely depends on climatic conditions. If you live in a fairly cold climate, it is better to use a frame that will act as additional thermal insulation. Such work is longer and more complex, but does not require the services of professionals - with due diligence, you can do everything yourself.
- Instead of wood, it is better to use stronger and more reliable metal slats. When installing the frame grille, be sure to leave gaps between it and the wall for air circulation.
- The frame is installed within 15-20 cm from the ground - this is the height to which the soil rises when it freezes in winter.
- In the gap left, you must put insulation of your choice - mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam.
- After installing the frame, the porcelain tiles themselves are installed, they are attached to the grate using clamps.
If you decide to install porcelain tiles with glue, it will take significantly less time, effort and materials. A layer of glue is simply applied to the base, and the slab is laid on it. In this case, neither frames nor thermal insulation materials are needed.
Ceramic (clinker) tiles as finishing
This is a very popular material for cladding foundations, its characteristics are similar to porcelain stoneware, but cheaper in cost. Clinker can reproduce the structure of brick, be polished to a shine or deliberately rough, made to look like stone. In terms of difficulty in installation, tiles occupy intermediate positions between porcelain stoneware and siding.
What do the main stages of finishing work look like:
- The first step, of course, is to prepare the foundation - the base is thoroughly cleaned, leveled and primed.
- To install the tiles, you need a special frost-resistant adhesive. Dilute it to the consistency specified in the instructions, and using a spatula, apply a layer no thinner than 4 mm to the wall. Make sure that no voids are formed during the process - if water gets into them, then in frosty conditions it will freeze and the tiles will move away from the wall.
- Installation starts with external corner offset - vertical seams in rows should not coincide with each other. For convenience, use special crosses to ensure even installation.
- Once the glue has dried, you can begin last stage- grouting. Unlike interior decoration, when cladding the base, you need to use compounds that are resistant to sub-zero temperatures.
Since the soil level around the perimeter of the foundation is constantly changing, it is necessary to calculate the number of rows of tiles in advance - the final result depends on two factors:
- the size of the tile itself;
- seam width.
To make it more convenient, measure the line of the second row from the soil and draw a straight horizontal line. Instead of marking, you can use an auxiliary strip.
This finish looks very beautiful - clinker perfectly imitates natural facing brick. Considering the high cost of the brick itself, using ceramic tiles in finishing is a reasonable option. Such a base will look elegant and expensive. Interesting decorative effect can be achieved by using grout that contrasts in color.
The tiles are mounted not only on the plinth, but also partially on the walls; you can additionally finish only the corners of the house and window and doorways. Natural tones clinker goes well with the shades of ceramic tiles and most other materials.
If desired, the tiles can be mounted not only with glue, but also on a frame, similar to porcelain stoneware, if you are planning to install a ventilated façade. In latitudes with cold winters, the second option is recommended. It requires large financial and physical costs, but is much more reliable compared to the adhesive installation method. A layer of insulation can be laid between the frame and the foundation.
So, all of the above types of plinth cladding are good - none of them is better or worse than the other. When choosing the material that will be used to decorate the foundation of the house, be guided only by your own taste, convenience and financial capabilities.
Finishing the foundation with panels is reliable and effective method protect the basement of a residential building from adverse external factors: water, wind, sunlight and mechanical damage. You can do the facing work yourself - detailed instructions It will help even a non-professional to cope with the task.
Finishing materials for the foundation: types and advantages
All panels intended for cladding the basement of a house are moisture resistant, able to withstand sudden temperature changes, and withstand mechanical stress. However, their properties depend on the material - some types, in addition to protective and decorative functions, have good thermal insulation qualities.
Vinyl
Panels made of polyvinyl chloride are affordable, lightweight and can last about 30 years. They are not subject to rotting, and mold or mildew does not form on the surface. Easy to care for - can be washed with water.
Mounted in accordance with all the rules, such panels will reliably protect the foundation from moisture and wind. They are easy to install yourself, and damaged elements can be easily replaced with new ones.
However, such products also have a serious drawback - they are inferior to other materials in strength.
Severe frosts make them brittle; they also cannot withstand mechanical stress and can crack.Metal
Facade panels can be made of anodized aluminum or galvanized steel. Steel sheets are heavier, and therefore a structure erected from them will create a greater load on the foundation.
The edges of the panels can be perforated or solid; the disadvantage of the latter is the need to make holes for fasteners yourself.
Wood-polymer
The elements consisting of wood fibers have a moisture-repellent coating and have good sound and heat insulation properties. They are affordable, easy to use, and resistant to temperature changes.
However, such cladding is not very durable - it can last about 10-15 years.
Plastic
Three-layer structures consisting of PVC sheet, protected on both sides plastic coated. Durable, lightweight and weather-resistant material that is easy to install.
Among the advantages:
- long service life;
- affordable price;
- fire resistance;
- a large selection of textures and colors: plastic panels can imitate almost any material: brick, masonry.
Cement
Cement-bonded particle boards are a strong and durable material that effectively protects the foundation from external influences. Mold does not form on them, they are fire resistant and low toxic. Due to the low thermal conductivity of CBPB, the foundation lined with them does not require additional insulation.
Sandwich panels
Such structures consist of a layer of insulation and facing material, and therefore have good protective properties.
They protect the foundation from moisture, heat loss, and external influences. They can have different coatings: metal, moisture-resistant plywood (Plywood: types, sheet sizes, how to cut it yourself), ceramic tiles or OSB.
Basement siding
Siding made of polypropylene has the same qualities as vinyl panels (resistant to mold, does not collapse upon contact with moisture, protects from winds, a variety of textures), but surpasses them in strength.
The disadvantage is the high cost.
Required tools and materials
To lay the foundation of a house you will need:
- plinth panels;
- wooden beam with dimensions from 40*40 mm or metallic profile to create a frame;
- starting and top trim– the first is installed at the bottom of the future cladding and serves as a support for the panels, the second closes the profile from above;
- corners for closing corner connections panels;
- fasteners (dowels for the frame, self-tapping screws with a press washer or galvanized nails with a wide head for fixing the panels);
- hacksaw or jigsaw for cutting panels;
- screwdriver and hammer;
- building level 80 cm long or more;
- ruler, pencil;
- hammer drill for creating holes for dowels;
- roulette;
- chop cord;
- square
Simultaneously with the cladding of the facade, it is possible to carry out its insulation, then heat and waterproofing materials will be required.
Finishing the foundation with panels: step-by-step instructions
Facade panels for the plinth are installed on the frame.
Work on the construction of the sheathing should be carried out especially carefully - the durability and reliability of the entire structure depends on how smoothly and firmly it is mounted.
Frame elements - profile or timber (Description, types, properties) - can be installed horizontally or vertically, for plastic panels Horizontal ones are more suitable.
Work order:
- The starting bar is installed at a height of 4-5 cm above ground level. Determine the starting point, using a level, tapping cord or marker, draw a line along the entire perimeter of the foundation. The plank is mounted along the intended line, securing it with dowels.
- If the façade will be insulated along with the cladding, the frame should be located at a distance from the walls sufficient for laying thermal insulation. The insulation is laid closely, leaving no joints, and secured with plastic dowel umbrellas. Fixed on top waterproofing material. How to insulate a house with polystyrene foam can be found in this article.
- On the corners, near doorways, the exit or entrance of communications into the house, corner strips and a j-profile are installed.
- Move on to attaching the panels. The first element is installed on the starting strip, fixed with self-tapping screws along two edges and in 2 places in the middle of the panel.
It is important not to tighten the fasteners all the way, but to leave a millimeter gap so that the expanding or contracting panel does not crack during temperature fluctuations.
- The remaining panels of the first row are installed in the same way.
- If the height of the elements is not enough, and a second or more rows are required, then they are made offset, like brickwork.
- When the foundation is completely sheathed, the last row of panels is covered with plastic sheathing.
- If after carrying out the work small gaps between the elements were noticed, they are sealed using silicone sealant suitable color.
In order for the erected structure to fully fulfill its functions and serve for a long time, before starting work, it is worth studying several recommendations from specialists in the installation of plastic panels:
- All points of entry and exit of communications into the house must be sealed before cladding begins.
- Plastic panels must be installed at a short distance from the soil level, and not close to the ground.
- Sheathing work always starts from the left corner and goes to the right.
- Fasteners for cladding must have an anti-corrosion coating.
- After completion of work, all gaps and joints must be thoroughly coated with sealant.
To carry out facing work, it is advisable to choose a day when the air temperature is above 0 °C and no precipitation is expected.
Decorative cladding of the foundation with basement siding
Siding panels have lock connection, thanks to which individual elements tightly and securely fixed into a single structure. However, in order for the work to be done efficiently, it is important to install a strong and even metal frame to which the basement siding will be attached.
Materials and tools
To work you will need:
- screwdriver;
- self-tapping screws and dowel-nails;
- hammer;
- perforator;
- building level;
- Bulgarian;
- marker and tape measure;
- scissors for cutting metal;
- metallic profile;
- corners, ebbs and starting bar.
Work order
Profiles are fixed in 3 places: below, in the middle and at the top. A similar scheme is used for cladding a foundation with 1 row of panels about 46 cm high. The pitch of the racks must match the width of the panel.
Before installing the profile, first mark the lines along which it will be laid using a level and a marker.
The profile is secured with dowels. A starting strip is installed on the lower profile, securing it with self-tapping screws at a distance of every 30 cm. Corners are secured to the corners and protrusions of the foundation.
Siding installation work begins from the corner, from left to right. The first element is attached to the starting bar, inserting self-tapping screws into the special holes for fastening and fixing it. Install the next panel so that its protrusions fit into the grooves of the first element.
Having reached the opposite corner, cut off last panel surplus using an angle grinder. Move to the next wall.
The top of the cladding is covered with a tint, and the gaps and cracks are filled with a sealant that matches the color of the siding.
Getting started self-installation basement siding, it is worth remembering a few rules:
- The fasteners must be installed in the center of a special hole, without screwing it in completely by 1 mm - this is necessary so that the panels that change under the influence of the environment do not crack.
- To securely fix the structure, use fasteners of such length that they fit into the base at least 11 mm.
- If, at the same time as laying the foundation, it is insulated, breathable non-foil materials are used.
Having learned how to finish the foundation with panels yourself, you can start working - the installation process is quite simple, and recommendations from specialists and watching videos from detailed description work will help you avoid common mistakes.
Video instructions for installing basement siding: materials for work, work order and installation process.
The video shows typical installation mistakes plinth panels and the consequences of non-compliance with installation technology.
Brick, concrete or monolithic foundation laid on the very early stage construction, it serves as the basis for the entire structure. The foundation is faced at the finish line of all repairs - for decorative design and the long-term durability of the base, this procedure is very important.
Foundation cladding - design options
There are several methods for lining the basement space, varying in budget and labor costs, complexity of execution and typical period of use:
- Plaster. A classic of the renovation genre, a budget-friendly and universal method of façade finishing. Can be performed in a multilayer version, wet plaster or in a dry version, with additional waterproofing of the basement floor and its insulation. Street plaster lasts quite a long time, but often needs repair. Alas, but the cracks are on facade plaster and entire crumbled areas are often encountered - this coating is more sensitive than all others to bad weather, accidental and non-accidental impacts and temperature changes;
- Natural natural stone will give the foundation (and the entire house) the respectable appearance of an aristocratic mansion and will last for several decades if the installation technology is followed. The cost of such repairs is 3-10 times higher than when plastering the facade. An additional complexity to the method is given by the need to take into account the large mass of natural stone cladding; such additional load on the foundation must be included in the building design in advance;
- Using siding or specially treated types of wood. Siding is advantageous due to the speed of installation and the integral appearance of the house, from the ridge of the roof to the foot of the facade. Wooden planks, no matter how carefully they are treated with special compounds, will retain their impeccable appearance only for a few years after repair;
- Artificial tiles for cladding the foundation are convenient for decorative installation and have an acceptable cost. Most of its varieties have a layered structure and serve to insulate the base simultaneously with its decorative decoration. In terms of durability, artificial stone is comparable to natural materials– granite, basalt, etc.;
For all “laying” methods external cladding near-surface walls have one common property: work should be done only after the building has completed shrinkage. Ignoring this requirement will lead to cracking decorative surface over the next year, after the change of several seasons.
For old houses this requirement is not relevant; they have long been “settled”. It is advisable to withstand new buildings for 6-8 months - plaster or tiles for the basement of a house after such a pause will have a durability of 10 years, which is quite a lot in outdoor conditions. By the way, this is why siding is so often used to decorate new foundations - it does not require a time-out before installation when cladding new buildings.
Main types of facing material
Facing tiles for foundations are the most popular and budget renovation, and with elite design of facades. Development construction technologies and industrial chemistry has led to the fact that it is difficult even for a specialist to distinguish artificial stone from natural stone. After quality execution installation work and thorough grouting of the tile joints, this task becomes completely impossible. But saving on the repair budget and reducing the labor intensity of work when finishing the facade with “stone-like” tiles are quite feasible..
The material contains a binder concrete mixture and fillers made of granite and marble chips, perlite and pumice, expanded clay and clinker. The texture of factory castings and the wide range of colors of the pigments used make it possible to use artificial stone much more widely than natural stone - natural granite or marble simply does not have such a palette of rainbow diversity. Any tile for a “stone” type foundation is laid according to a standard repair procedure.
Tiles for facing the foundation - laying technology
We will assume that the shrinkage of our foundation took place long ago and all deformation shifts are a thing of the past. It is advisable to perform drainage around the house before the start of design work - then the consequences of earthen drainage work will be reliably hidden by the façade cladding.
How to tile a foundation - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Preliminary
Yes, without the labor-intensive and rather dreary step of cleaning the rough facade from dirt, dust, plaster streaks, paint layers, oil stains, etc. not enough. The more thoroughly you treat the concrete (brick) surface to remove foreign deposits, the stronger and longer each tile will stay on it.
When tiling the basement of an old building, all the plaster will have to be removed. No matter how durable the layer of used plaster looks, it will have to be knocked down with a chisel and hammer, otherwise the brand new tile will fall off the foundation, like autumn leaves under the gusts of fresh wind. To make this hard work easier, you can use a hammer drill, setting it to a small amplitude of longitudinal-return vibrations with a mechanical chisel. The smoother the base of the wall, the easier it is to lay the tiles. The permissible size of the base roughness is ± 10 mm per linear meter, unevenness bigger size must be cut down.
Step 2: Calculation, primer and adhesive preparation
It is easy to calculate the number of tile rows in height and length, because The size of the installation gap is small. The base is primed according to its material (concrete, brick, aerated concrete), and the glue is diluted according to the recommendations of the selected type of tile. Add to the adhesive mass liquid glass to give it waterproof qualities.
The tiled cladding of the foundation starts from the most visible corner and is carried out from the bottom up.
The primer is applied to the wall with a wide and stiff brush, carefully covering all the depressions and recesses. The first row of tiles must be supported by leveled straight fittings. You can use a steel angle and a thick strip; the tree may bend under the weight of artificial stone. The corner is drilled and nailed through the holes to the wall with dowels - the accuracy of installation of the first row is worth such preparation.
Step 3: Lining the base with artificial stone
It is convenient to use a wide hybrid grater to apply glue. One side of this tool is smooth, and the other is serrated. First, an even layer of glue is applied to the wall and smoothed with the smooth side of a grater. Then the notched side of the trowel is passed along the wall - the removed excess glue is applied to the back of the tile. All that remains is to place it against the wall and press down for 10-15 seconds.
The use of plastic “crosses” when laying artificial stone is a controversial issue, but they are very useful for the consistency of tile joints. Each upper row is shifted relative to the lower one by half the length of the tiled element. Stone cutting is carried out immediately, completely completing each row. Fortunately, all cutting lines will be straight, which is easily achieved with a grinder with a thin abrasive wheel. Encircling the foundation with a stone “lace”, we move to the top point of the base. After the second row, it is necessary to check the cladding for strict verticality, using a plumb line.
Step 4: Final
The timing of finishing the facade depends on its dimensions, the size of the tiles and the dexterity of the worker. In any case, grouting of the joints is carried out after the cladding is completely completed and all auxiliary “crosses” are removed. Grouting is done with a proprietary fugue, with the addition of coloring pigments and frost-resistant additives. Grout is applied rubber spatula, its elasticity allows the thick composition to penetrate deeply into the installation gaps. The more thoroughly the seams are “rubbed”, the longer the entire new cladding.
