Well      03/08/2020

Plaster finishing in a wooden sink bath. Finishing a washing room in a bathhouse: materials for finishing, design, photos, advice from experts. Heating of the washing compartment of the bathhouse

The washing room is one of the main rooms of any bathhouse. In the process of arranging this room, the key requirements of construction and finishing technologies and a number of additional nuances must be taken into account: any omission, even the smallest, can subsequently lead to a significant deterioration in the operational characteristics of the room.

Floors deserve special attention in the process of arranging a washing room. The operating conditions of the washing room are such that the floor here is constantly exposed to moisture and frequent temperature changes, which must be taken into account during the design of the structure and its subsequent construction.

In order for the floor in the washing room to serve as long and efficiently as possible, it must meet the following requirements:

  • promote rapid and effective removal of moisture. For this purpose, floors, as a rule, are made with a slight slope in the direction of the drain hole or are equipped using the flowing technology;
  • fully ventilate and dry quickly;
  • withstand operation under conditions high humidity and temperature changes;
  • be laid in such a way that there is no possibility of drafts in the room.

Main types of floors for washrooms

The most widely used in private construction are wooden (additionally classified into leaking and non-leaking) and concrete structures.

The simplest option. On a pre-prepared base (lower crown, concrete base, support pillars etc.) logs are fixed, serving as the basis for the subsequent placement of the boardwalk.

The boards are laid with gaps of 3-5 mm - through them there will be unhindered drainage of water from the washing room.

As a rule, such floors are made collapsible, which allows, if necessary, to remove the boards and take them out of the room for better drying.

The method is inexpensive and easy to implement, but has a significant drawback - it is impossible to insulate this kind of floor.

In the case of leaking wooden floors, the structure can be equipped without observing a slope: the water will go into the gaps between the flooring elements, and then into the ground under the bathhouse.

The boards are laid without gaps. The possibility of disassembling such a floor is not provided.

The system is installed with a slope towards the drain hole - through it the water will flow into the drainage basin, and then through a pipe it will be diverted beyond the boundaries of the building.

The design includes a “subfloor” and a thermal insulation layer.

When arranging a non-leaking floor structure, special attention should be paid to solving the issue of ventilation underground space. As a rule, to ensure sufficient ventilation, a hole (or several, depending on the area of ​​the room) is made in the floor and a plastic pipe. Pipes with a diameter of 50 or 100 mm are optimally suited.

Concrete floors

A relatively simple design, durable, reliable and easy to maintain. In practice, pouring a concrete floor often requires a much more modest financial investment compared to constructing a wooden structure.

The only drawback of a concrete floor is that it is cold. There are several options to solve the problem:

  • walk in flip flops;
  • qualitatively insulate the floor. The most popular option;
  • install a floor heating system. Requires significant financial investments and the involvement of third-party specialists if the private developer does not have the appropriate skills.

The procedure for arranging a wooden floor in a washing room

The procedure for arranging a wooden floor consists of several main stages. First, the base is prepared, then the flooring is arranged (the technology is somewhat different for leaking and non-leaking floors), and then ventilation issues are resolved

Laying a wooden floor begins with the installation of joists. Typically larch or pine timber is used. If possible, the flooring should be made of boards, the material of which is the same as the log wood. As noted, the floors are installed with a slope in the direction of the drain hole (in the case of a leaking structure, this rule can be ignored).

Installation of logs is carried out according to the width of the room, i.e. the smallest distance between opposite walls. If the room is square (for example, 4x4, 6x6, etc.), the joists can be installed in any direction.

Important note! The logs are mounted transversely to the drain.

For greater ease of perception, the information is divided into several steps, supported by diagrammatic illustrations and presented in table format.

Table. Installation of logs

Work stage, illustrationDescription


Let's start arranging the support chairs. Preparation, planning
To ensure sufficient rigidity and stability of the logs, a support chair is installed in the center of each of them. To make such supports, you can use wood, brick or poured concrete.
In the case of using wood or brick, a support platform with a thickness of 200 mm or more is pre-filled with at least reinforcement with a chain-link mesh. Make the dimensions of the platform such that it protrudes approximately 50 mm from all sides of the future support.

Dig a hole for the base of each of the sites being developed. Recommended depth is 400 mm. Compact and level the bottom of the hole and its walls. Fill the bottom of each depression with 10 cm of sand and compact it well, pouring water for better quality.
Pour 15 cm of crushed stone on top and compact it thoroughly.
Install formwork, previously assembled from edged boards, into the prepared pit. You can use screws to fasten individual boards together. The height of the formwork should rise at least 50 mm above the ground level. Lay waterproofing material, such as roofing felt, along the edges of the pit.
Prepare concrete from 1 share of cement, 3 shares of clean sand and 4-5 shares of crushed stone. Water - approximately 50% of the weight of cement. The consistency of the mixture should be quite thick.
Fill the formwork with a 10-15 cm layer of concrete and compact it. On top of the fill, place a piece of reinforcing mesh, previously cut to fit the dimensions of the formwork. Pour the next layer of concrete on top of the mesh to the upper edges of the formwork and compact it thoroughly. Give the pads at least 1-2 days to dry.

Apply preheated bitumen to the surface of the equipped concrete area, and place a layer of roofing material on top.
If the bathhouse is built on a strip foundation, the height of the concrete platforms must correspond to the height of the strip, i.e. their “tops” should be located at the same level.

In the case of a columnar foundation, the supports must be erected to the level of the top of the embedded beam, on which the logs will rest in the future.

In the photo you can see the finished concrete pad. For better understanding, the structure is shown with a brick support already erected and a joist laid on top. In the same photo you can estimate the size of the brick support. Traditionally, it is laid out in dimensions of 2x2 bricks, and the height is selected individually in accordance with the conditions of a particular building. Usually 4 rows are enough. Laying is carried out using a standard solution of 1 part cement, 3 parts sand and water. Lay out supports for each joist. The number of supports is determined by the cross-section of the beam. So, if you are making logs from timber/boards measuring, for example, 15x10 cm or 15x8 cm, one such support in the middle will be enough. Installing supports every meter will allow you to reduce the cross-section of the timber/board used to 10x5 cm or even 8x5 cm.

After erecting the planned number of supports, you can move on to the stage of preparing the underground, or rather, the ground in this part of the structure.
If you plan to install a leaking wooden floor, and the composition of the soil on the site allows it to pass moisture well, fill the underground with 20-25 cm of crushed stone and compact it thoroughly. As a result, water will flow into the gaps between the flooring elements, pass through the backfill layer and be absorbed into the soil. In this situation, crushed stone will take on the functions of a kind of filter, ensuring normal removal of moisture, eliminating siltation of the underground and helping to maintain a normal level of humidity.

If the soil does not absorb water well, the work will become somewhat more complicated: you will have to build a tray in the ground, through which in the future the water will be drained into a catch basin (pit), and from there outside the building.
To implement the mentioned idea, you make a clay castle with a slope in the direction of the water pit. Some developers resort to arranging a castle from concrete mortar, however, such a decision leads to an inappropriate increase in financial costs.
A clay castle is made in the following order: you pour about a 10 cm layer of crushed stone on the ground of the underground space, pour a 15 cm layer of clay on top, and then level it so that a gradually increasing slope is provided from everywhere in the direction of the tray to remove moisture. The recommended parameters are shown in the diagram.

If you plan to install a non-leaking structure, at the same stage you can insulate the underground using expanded clay, maintaining a minimum 15-centimeter distance between the installed joists and the backfill to ensure effective ventilation underground spaces.

Dig a pit near the wall in the washroom. A height of 300 mm and a width of 40-50 cm is usually sufficient. Compact the walls of the pit and further strengthen them with clay. From the equipped pit, lead a pipe to remove moisture from the catchment area to the planned location (sewer, drainage ditch, etc.). Use a pipe with a diameter of at least 11 cm - through it the liquid will be drained as quickly as possible. The pipe is laid with a slope, as can be seen in the diagram.


Let's start installing the logs
Fixing lags is traditionally done with anchors.
When installing a non-leaking system, the first log is laid near the wall located opposite to the water collection pit. In accordance with the technology, the installation of the outermost joists should be carried out in such a way that they are at the greatest elevation in relation to the other elements - this will ensure the correct slope to the catchment area.

Those logs that are installed along the edges are not equipped with notches. In other logs, notches are created. Maintain a bevel of about 0.2-0.3 cm. Similar cuts can be prepared in the areas where the lags come into contact with the supports erected for them (the width of the cut is ensured according to the width of such a support).
The total slope of the finished surface should be about 10 degrees. When determining the depth of the cut to be created, focus on the number of logs to be installed. For example, if your washroom has small area and 4 joists are enough to build a floor; make deeper cuts than in rooms with six joists and a large number of such elements.

When constructing leaking wooden floors, you can start installing the joists from any convenient wall. The slope in this case is not necessary, so the elements can be installed at the same height.
Cut the timber for the logs according to the dimensions of the washing room. Keep in mind that between the installed joists and the walls of the room there should be approximately a 30-40 mm ventilation gap.

Before installing the logs, the embedded crown/support must be covered with waterproofing material. Roofing felt is usually used. You are already familiar with the technology for arranging such insulation. Additionally, the timber for making lags is impregnated with an antiseptic.

Be sure to check the horizontal position of the joists. If the control bubble in the level deviates from the center, trim the areas where the joists come into contact with the beam/support. Cut until the joists are level with the horizon.

To check the correct fastening of the lags in relation to each other, also use a level. For greater convenience, place a flat board on the installed joists and place a control device on it - a level. Control is carried out near the walls, as well as in the center of the joists. If necessary, trim the installed joists or level them using wooden pads.

The flooring of the mentioned structures will be carried out in a slightly different sequence, as a result of which there is a need to individually consider two technological operations.

Prices for wooden beams

wooden beam

Laying a leaking wooden floor

To perform this work, an unedged board is used. Pre-plane the flooring elements. Maximum flat surface must be provided from the end of the boards. If you wish, you can immediately purchase an edged board.

Proceed with the arrangement of the leaking floor, following the technology presented in the table.

Table. Flooring with leaky structure

StageExplanationsIllustration
Cut the boards according to the dimensions of your washroom, keeping in mind that there must be at least a 20mm ventilation gap between the flooring elements and the walls.

You can start from any wall convenient for you, erected parallel to the chosen direction of the flooring.
Step back from the selected wall about 20 mm, place the first decking board on the joists and nail the decking element. Select the length of the fasteners according to the thickness of the board being laid. So, for fastening 4-centimeter boards, 8-centimeter nails are optimal.

Nails are driven in approximately 1.5 cm from each edge of the board.
Important note! When driving nails, set them at approximately a 40-degree angle. To attach the board to the joist, use at least 2 nails. Try to recess the fasteners a little (about 1 mm) into the material.

Having nailed the first board, proceed to fastening the second. The minimum recommended distance between flooring elements is 3 mm. For greater convenience and to ensure the same gap width, you can use templates with the necessary parameters, made, for example, from fiberboard.
Secure all boards in accordance with the technology discussed.

As a rule, people refrain from painting the floor in the washing room - without paint, the material will dry faster. It is enough to limit yourself to a coating in the form of 2 layers of drying oil.

The procedure for arranging a non-leaking floor in a washing room

For this flooring, a tongue and groove board is used. Arrange the flooring elements with the groove facing the inside of the room - the fitting process involves tapping the end with the groove with a mallet. Otherwise, the tongue may simply break in the process of performing this activity, because it is 2 times thinner than the main board.

The procedure for arranging the flooring is discussed in the following table.

Table. Non-leak flooring

Work stage, illustrationExplanations

Flooring technology involves the preliminary arrangement of a “subfloor”.
Nail the installed joists from the bottom, along the edges, wooden blocks dimensions 5x5 cm. Lay the “subfloor” boards on the fixed bars. You can lay scrap boards, grade 2-3 material, unedged boards, etc. Secure the boards with nails.

Lay a waterproofing material, for example, a special film or roofing felt, on top of the subfloor boards.

The technology involves the arrangement of a thermal insulation layer. Expanded clay is suitable for insulation. It is enough to fill it in between the lags. A second layer of waterproofing material is laid on top of the insulation.

After arranging the “sub” floor, proceed with the installation of tongue-and-groove finishing flooring boards. The basic recommendations are the same as in the case of a leaking floor, but the boards are laid without gaps.
If you wish, you can refuse to fasten the flooring elements with nails - this way you can remove the boards and take them out of the washing room to dry.
In this case, the following method of fixing the flooring is used: the boards are secured at the edges with 2x3 cm bars. The bars themselves are attached to the joists with wood grouse screws. If necessary, the screws are unscrewed, the bars and boards are removed and taken out to dry.

Prices for vapor barrier membrane

vapor barrier membrane

Solving ventilation issues

The simplest option for organizing ventilation of the space between the “subfloor” and the finished flooring was mentioned earlier - holes are prepared in the floor and pipes leading out of the room are fixed in them. A diagram of such a system is shown in the following image.

Another option for ensuring ventilation is the arrangement of multi-level floors. In this case, the height of the floors is different rooms will be different. So, in the wash room the floor is made on average 3 cm lower than in the dressing room.

The first option has gained the most popularity among developers. The procedure is extremely simple: during the process of arranging the floor in the corners of the washing room, special holes are left in the base for further installation of ventilation pipes. Pipes with a diameter of 5-10 cm are mainly used. The material used may vary.

The ventilation pipes are installed directly after finishing the walls of the room. Ventilation pipes with a diameter of 5 cm or less can, if desired, be disguised under the casing. More impressive pipes are usually mounted in corners and attached to the surface of the walls with special clamps. It is advisable to install pipes with a diameter of more than 5 cm in baths that are visited more than twice a week.

Prices for different types of ventilation pipes

ventilation pipes

The procedure for arranging concrete floors

A concrete floor will last more than 25-30 years, while the service life of wooden flooring and joists is limited to an average of 6-10 years, however independent device capital structure will require more significant labor costs - you will have to prepare/buy concrete mixture, pour it with reinforcement, lay thermal insulation and perform other related activities.

Instructions for independent arrangement concrete floor in the washing room is shown in the table.

Table. The procedure for arranging a concrete floor

Stage, illustrationDescription

Moisture from the washing room will flow into the pit. Dig a hole for its arrangement. A pipe with a diameter of 15-20 cm is laid in the pit and discharged into the sewer system, drainage ditch or other appropriate place. The diagram shows optimal sizes pit for a small 4x4 bathhouse. Change the recommended values ​​in proportion to the dimensions of your room.

We level the soil and fill it with about a 15-centimeter layer of broken brick. Pour a 10-centimeter layer of crushed stone on top and compact it thoroughly.
You can use a more traditional backfill option by replacing broken brick sand. Some developers first fill in crushed stone, and then sand. In general, each option is correct.

On top of the backfill we lay a layer of roofing material or other suitable roll material with approximately a 10-centimeter overlap on the walls. We coat seams and joints with bitumen for complete sealing.

We pour a layer of expanded clay on top of the waterproofing material for insulation. We select the thickness of the layer in accordance with the climatic characteristics of your region. In the case of a washing room specifically, they are often limited to 5-10 cm of backfill - and the costs are minimal, and walking on the finished floor is not so cold.
Lay a reinforcing mesh on top of the expanded clay. Some developers limit themselves to the use of chain-link mesh - for a compact room it is usually quite enough. A more reliable option is a mesh with cells of about 15x15 cm, assembled from 10-12 mm reinforcing bars. To fasten the rods at the intersection points, standard flexible binding wire is used. The mesh can be fixed with cement mortar. Often strips are made that simultaneously serve as guides.

The main work is done. All that remains is to level the filling with a cement-sand mixture. The composition is evenly distributed over the surface and smoothed with a suitable device, for example, a piece edged boards with straight ends. To prepare the solution, it is best to use perlite, i.e. expanded sand – screed will help improve the reliability of the structure and its thermal insulation properties.

When using perlite, it is very important to maintain the correct proportions. Pour 2 buckets of expanded sand into a concrete mixer or trough for manual preparation of the solution. Pour about 10 liters of water into the container and mix everything thoroughly. After this, you will notice that the volume of the mixture has decreased by approximately 30% - these are the properties of perlite.

Next, add half a 10-liter bucket of perlite and stir the mixture for 5-10 minutes, then add 5 liters of water and continue kneading until smooth. Then add a bucket of perlite and about 2 liters of water to the mixture. Continue stirring until the mixture is almost free-flowing. Don't add water. Let the solution stand for about 10 minutes and resume stirring - the composition will gradually gain plasticity.

Prices for perlite

perlite 10l

For greater convenience, before screeding, you can attach guides to the base, for example, from a profile for drywall - it will be easier to navigate along them. In large rooms it is impossible to do without guides, but in a compact washing room you can manage without them, controlling the evenness of the surface with a level.

Place the plastic mixture on the floor and level it. Do not make a layer too thick - 10-15 mm is quite enough. Do not forget to maintain the slope in the direction of the water intake. The mixture hardens within 4-5 days. You can put it on top floor tiles. Use non-slip lining - this way you will minimize the risk of injury to your washroom.

The photo shows the location of the beacons when forming a slope in the shower room

Now you have a complete understanding of the procedure for arranging floors in washing bath on our own. Follow the recommendations received, and you will be able to cope with the implementation of the considered activities no worse than a professional master, significantly saving on the services of third-party workers and doing everything in a timely manner. at its best, because each technological operation will be controlled by you personally.

Good luck!

Video - Floors in a bathhouse in a washing room

Currently, the bathhouse is a whole complex of special rooms for bathing procedures and relaxation. In addition to the actual washing, there you can take a break from the hustle and bustle, socialize in pleasant company, improve your body health and improve your morale. Further in the material we will talk about what the structure of a bathhouse washing machine is, what materials are best used for finishing and where to start this process.

As a rule, in modern bath You can find the following rooms:

  • steam room;
  • washing room;
  • dressing room;
  • restroom.


There can be several options for fastening the lining:

  • horizontally;
  • vertically;
  • diagonally;
  • in mixed media.

Finishing a bathhouse sink with wooden clapboard begins with attaching a frame consisting of timber (read: ""). The structural elements are attached perpendicular to the direction of installation of the lining. Moreover, it does not matter whether the horizontal, vertical or diagonal fixation method was chosen. And if you also combine different cladding options, the design of the bathhouse sink will be truly impressive.


Fastening the lining can be done using the following methods:

  • using clamps;
  • nails, driving them into the groove under acute angle, which can be a difficult process for a beginner;
  • using self-tapping screws, screwing them all the way through.

Arrangement of the floor in the washing room

A properly equipped floor will help create an attractive interior for a bathhouse washroom. It must meet a number of requirements - at a minimum, it should not slip, and its maintenance should not be difficult.


Most professionals believe that a tiled sink in a bathhouse will look best. In addition, such material is relatively inexpensive.


To drain water from the sink, drains are installed on the floor wooden slats, or rubber mats (read also: " "). These coverings need to be washed and thoroughly dried after each bathing event. Application is not allowed detergents based on chemical additives, because during the heating process they are capable of releasing elements hazardous to health.

In addition, when installing the floor, it is worth considering that the soil pad, thermal insulation layer and concrete screed should not be fastened to the foundation. This way, the screed can move up and down independently relative to the walls in summer and winter. If this is not provided for, the tile flooring will collapse when spring arrives.

Organization of a ventilation system in a washing room

It is very important to provide high-quality ventilation for the floor of the tiled sink in the bathhouse, since due to the accumulation of water in the underground, mold can grow. Therefore, they organize air exhaust in order to dry the space under the floor in a timely manner, as well as ensure uniform heating of the floor. It is possible to make a hood if you install a ventilation duct near the stove (more details: " "). As the oven heats up ventilation duct a draft appears, due to which moisture and cold air go outside.

Therefore, the organization of ventilation washing department V wooden bath not only provides ventilation and drying of the room after bath procedures, but also promotes permanent air flow and optimal temperature balance in the room.


There can be two types of ventilation in a bathhouse sink:

  • natural, which is formed by the difference in pressure in the building and outside, without installing additional equipment;
  • artificial, which is created by installed fans, air conditioners, filters and other equipment.

The process of organizing a ventilation system should be thought through very carefully, otherwise there is a risk of the formation of colonies of bacteria and fungi that are harmful to human health and decay. wooden elements floor, as well as the appearance of a musty smell.

Providing the wash room with water

Calculation of the power of water supply pipes must be made based on the expected number of people and the area of ​​​​the future bathhouse, since a sufficient water supply is an important condition functioning of the bathhouse.


To provide washing hot water in sufficient quantity, you can choose one of the following methods:

  • water heating gas heater, if possible, supply gas to the bathhouse;
  • using an electric boiler.

Thus, if it is possible to connect to central water supply, then solving the issue of water supply is not difficult.

But if no communications are laid near the bathhouse, required amount Water for washing all visitors to the bathhouse must be prepared in advance so that everyone can collect the required volume of water in a separate container.


Therefore, the calculation of the approximate volume of water must be made in advance. Considering that on average one person needs about 7-10 liters of hot water at 80-90 ºС and 3-4 times more cold water, it turns out that each steamer will need about 45 liters of water.

By multiplying the resulting value by the number of visitors to the steam room, you can determine how much water is required. Hot water is prepared in a large vat, leaving it on a stove, which is usually heated with birch wood.

DIY washing room furniture

To complete the finishing of the sink in the bathhouse, you should take care of the appropriate furniture, that is, beds and benches. Some owners will prefer to do it themselves. And although this process is quite complex and time-consuming, if you follow a number of rules, it is quite possible to cope with it.


When making furniture for washing, you need to pay attention to the following rules:

  • you should choose the right type of wood. Typically, furniture is made from hardwood wood, in particular linden boards, which retain their attractive appearance for a long time appearance, does not darken when heated, does not overheat, is practically not afraid of moisture and hot steam and smells very pleasant;
  • To protect wood from rot and fungus, it must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition. But resorting to painting or varnishing is strictly not recommended, since when heated, these materials begin to evaporate harmful substances.

To assemble the beds you will need slats, wooden beams and fasteners.


Assembling the bed begins with installing a frame of the required size. Next, they begin to fill the planks onto this structure.

All fasteners must be deepened into the wood and puttied so that when heated they cannot burn the skin.


Thus, organizing a washing unit in a bathhouse is done not only with the goal of rinsing and refreshing yourself after visiting the steam room, but also to enjoy the whole process. To do this, you need to first think through the design of the washing room with tiles in the bathhouse, so that it is pleasant to be in it. Well, furniture made with your own hands will bring the owners not only physical satisfaction from the washing process, but will also become a source of joy and pride.

The article will be useful to those who plan to independently complete the interior decoration of bath rooms. Detailed step-by-step instructions with photos will help you with high quality and compliance construction technologies perform cladding and cladding.

A classic Russian bathhouse necessarily contains such rooms as:

  • steam room;
  • washing;
  • vestibule (locker room).

If the area allows, modern buildings will be equipped with a separate recreation room, a billiard room, a swimming pool, a veranda, a barbecue area and even a full kitchen.






Despite fashion trends, the basic requirements for the bath remain unchanged:

  • the steam room requires persistent hot steam,
  • in the washing room there are non-slip floors and the possibility of convenient bathing procedures,
  • In general, the premises have a comfortable microclimate and an aesthetically pleasing environment.

The functionality of bath rooms largely depends on the correct finishing. Even if your structure is built from rounded logs, and the walls from the inside look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing, it is recommended to carry out interior finishing of the bathhouse, as this will significantly extend its service life.

Each room has a number of features that must be taken into account when choosing materials and cladding methods.

Steam room

When decorating a steam room, the following nuances must be taken into account:

  • sudden temperature changes, the upper limit of which can reach 120˚C;
  • the presence of hot steam emitted in a powerful and concentrated stream;
  • high humidity.

A universal cladding option for a steam room is a cladding board, which must have the following properties:

  • do not absorb moisture;
  • have a low heat capacity, therefore, do not heat up from high temperatures and contribute to the rapid heating of the steam room;
  • have a pleasant color and smell, and do not release resin when heated;
  • protect walls from rot and mold, help purify the air.

Of all the variety of linings, panels made of linden, aspen, cedar or African abashi wood are suitable for use in a steam room. When choosing a cladding material, pay attention to the quality of the wood - well-dried and hewn, without knots or nicks on the surface, it will serve reliably for many years.

The lining in the steam room is not treated with varnish, paint or antiseptic. These substances are toxic and, when heated, can negate all the benefits of bath procedures.

Before covering The cheapest material for these purposes is mineral wool, which is what is most often used for finishing. Often, insulation such as basalt wool is used. It is more durable, as it is not subject to damage from high temperatures. However, the most the best insulation For baths, cork agglomerate is considered. It is anti-allergenic, not susceptible to rotting, burning and fungus.



The floor in the steam room is made warm, non-slippery and pleasant for walking with bare feet.

Prices for lining

Video - Interior of the steam room

Wash room

In the washing department, you usually not only rinse your body; here you can relax after a hot steam room, have a relaxing massage, or apply products to care for your face, body, or hair. The convenience of the premises for carrying out various procedures must be taken care of already at the stage of construction and subsequent finishing.

The washing area is faced with either ceramic tiles or wood. Moreover, if deciduous varieties of lining were used in the steam room, then washing room They prefer coniferous species - larch, spruce or pine. The resin they contain has moisture-repellent properties and protects materials from rotting.

Special attention given to the floor, it should not be slippery or cold. It is preferable to fill the base in the washing room with concrete, on which tiles are laid. Although it is also possible wooden version floor.

To prevent slipping on a wet surface, it is recommended to install removable flooring on the tiles. wooden joists. They should be dried after completing the bath procedures.

Wood flooring on tiled floor- photo

Tambour, locker room, rest room

Along with the washing room and steam room, in the rest bath rooms High air humidity remains. Here you can use both deciduous and coniferous wood for decoration. The following materials are also used:


The combination is common in such rooms various types finishing, for example wooden lining, tiles and natural stone.

Prices for porcelain tiles

porcelain tiles

Video - Shower and relaxation room in a bathhouse made of thermoolha

Ceiling decoration in the bathhouse

During operation, the ceiling is exposed to the aggressive effects of hot steam and high humidity. It is important to protect the floors with vapor and heat insulation to prevent damage to the materials. For these purposes it is often used aluminium foil or construction membrane. They are equally effective at ensuring they are sealed.

For vapor barrier, do not use foil with cotton wool glued on it. It is much thinner and less convenient when carrying out cladding work. Also, do not use foil with polypropylene foam attached. It is toxic when heated, so it is not suitable for use in bath rooms.


It is important to carefully seal all joints with aluminum tape. If during the process of attaching the material you inadvertently damaged it, immediately seal this place, then you may forget to do this and the vapor barrier will be damaged.

In the steam room you need to lay out a hole for the pipe. It is equipped with a box made of thin sheet of stainless steel, which is filled with expanded clay.

The ceiling above the stove is additionally insulated with a steel sheet, which protects the wood from excessive heat.

Step-by-step instructions for installing lining on the ceiling

Step 1. Slats with a cross-section of 2*4 cm are sewn onto the ceiling with a lathing pitch of 40-45 cm. In the places where the frame is attached, it is necessary to provide gaps for ventilation of at least 10 mm.

Step 2. The slats are placed horizontally on the walls, the direction is perpendicular to the lining.

Step 3. Wooden panels begin to be attached from one of the walls. The groove of the first plank is directed outward and the tenon of the next one is driven into it. It can be the other way around, there is no fundamental difference.

On a note! When installing, use pads and a mallet to avoid damaging the material.

Step 4. The planks can be fixed with special clamps; they are attached to the rail with nails or screws. But the simplest and most convenient way is to use construction stapler. It reliably fixes the lining and significantly reduces installation time.

Step 5. Gaps from the walls of 2-2.5 cm are left on the sides. This provides additional ventilation and prevents deformation of the finishing material. The gaps are subsequently hidden by the baseboard.

The first and final panels are nailed with nails with a small head. They are hammered in at an angle, the head is completely driven into the wood using a hammer.

It is important to ensure the verticality of the slats, which is checked after installing each panel using a level. Instead, you can use a simple construction meter. In this case, you measure the distance from the wall to the edge of the installed panels on one side and the other.

If there is a discrepancy in measurements, the lining is carefully tapped to the required level. To do this, use a small piece of the same panel, which is inserted into the groove and a mallet (or hammer).

The panels are also trimmed in the following way: a wooden overlay is fixed, under which a pointed sliver is carefully hammered.

The walls in the steam room are decorated with wood. In other rooms you can use tiles or stone.

Wall decoration with clapboard

Basic installation equipment wood panels on walls is no different from attaching them to the ceiling.

Step 1. We fill a thick beam horizontally along the entire perimeter - every 80-100 cm.

Step 2. We lay insulation from mineral wool. We cut the insulation to the required sizes with a sharp knife. We lay it between the beams without compacting it.

Step 3. We lay a vapor barrier and carefully seal all joints with aluminum tape.

Note! Carefully monitor the quality of insulation in the corners.

Step 4. To provide a ventilation gap, we stuff the spacer strip. Sheathing is always performed at an angle of 90 degrees to the lining strips. Thus, if you plan to place the panels vertically, the sheathing is nailed horizontally.

First, frame vertical slats are installed at the corners of the wall, the accuracy of their fastening is controlled by a plumb line. To evenly arrange the horizontal slats, you can pull the cords at the top and bottom of the frame slats, that is, near the floor and above the ceiling.

The next strip is inserted after 40-50 cm, and then the remaining strips are attached around the perimeter, with the same step. Constantly check the evenness of the installation with a level or plumb line.

Step 5. Doors and windows are lined with separate bars.

Step 6. Let's start attaching the panels.

When covering walls in bath rooms, it is recommended to mount the lining vertically, starting from one of the corners. This will ensure that moisture quickly drains onto the floor, without trapping it in the grooves of the panels.

If you decide to do horizontal finishing, then lay the boards with the tongue facing up so that moisture does not accumulate in the grooves. With this option, start fastening the boards from the ceiling, and not from the floor. The lathing is nailed vertically.

Wooden panels are fastened using clamps, regular nails, or a construction stapler. When using nails or self-tapping screws, they should be inserted at an angle of 45 degrees, with the head completely buried in the wood.

Be sure to leave 2-3 cm gaps when attaching the lining from the ceiling and floor for ventilation.

Often the lining has to be trimmed. For these purposes, use a saw with small teeth or an electric jigsaw.

Before attaching the last rail, it is trimmed to the right size and attached to the sheathing. On the first panel of the next wall, the ridge is cut off and installed flush against the last batten of the first wall. Corner trimming requires special precision. The main thing here is to determine the required angle and draw a cut line before sawing. Adjacent angles The panels should fit end to end, without gaps.

Prices for vapor barrier

vapor barrier

Video - Finishing a bathhouse with clapboard

Insulating the oven from the wall

Special attention must be paid to insulating the stove from the wall. For these purposes, you can use one of the following options:

  • stainless steel - attached directly to the wall behind the stove;
  • mineralite - heat-resistant boards made in Finland, consisting of cement, mineral fillers and reinforcing fiber. 2 sheets are attached if the stove is located in close proximity to the wall. When the stove is located at a distance of more than 40 cm, it is sufficient to use one sheet of mineralite.;
  • heat-resistant kaolin clay tiles, for example from Russian company"Terracotta";
  • profile iron – the most a budget option isolation;
  • red solid brick - laid between the wall and the stove to the base of the pipe. If desired, you can insulate the entire space up to the ceiling.

Minerite prices

Wall tiling

Often the walls in the washing department or in rest rooms are finished with moisture-resistant ceramic tiles. It is made from environmentally friendly, non-toxic materials that are safe for health when heated, do not absorb moisture and give a beautiful and modern look room.

Step-by-step installation instructions tiles on the walls in the bath includes preparatory stage and cladding.

1) Preparation

If the walls are brick or cinder block, then they are cleaned of dirt and dust and rough plaster, the solution levels out unevenness.

Wooden walls are covered with waterproofing material - roofing felt or roofing felt. He gets nailed construction stapler, a fine mesh is sewn on top. Finishing preparatory work applying a cement mortar that completely covers the metal mesh.

A perfectly flat wooden beam is nailed at floor level, from which it will begin fine finishing. You can use a metal UD profile, which is mounted level along the wall.

To control vertical rows, use a regular plumb line or laser level.

2) Laying tiles

To attach the tiles, you can use either a self-prepared solution of cement and sand (in a ratio of 1/5) or ready-made glue. It is more convenient to use industrial glue intended for baths; it can withstand large temperature changes and high humidity.

Before starting work, the tiles are immersed in a container of water and left until all the air comes out of it. This will provide better adhesion to the solution.

Start facing from below, from the attached level.

It is important to lay out the first row perfectly evenly, since the quality of all subsequent cladding will depend on it.

Using a notched trowel, apply the adhesive to the back of the tile or directly to the wall. The tile is pressed against the wall, the glue should protrude slightly beyond its edges. To make the square stand perfectly straight, align it using rubber mallet.

Keep an eye on the gap between the rows of tiles; it should be the same along the entire length and height. To do this, when adjacent rows are laid out, plastic crosses are placed in the gaps in the corners of the tiles.

After 2 days the glue will dry completely and you can remove the level.

The gaps between the rows are filled with grout, which matches the color of the cladding. It dries in 11-12 hours.

The final stage is cleaning the walls from grout residues and other contaminants. The tiles are thoroughly washed and wiped dry.

Tiles create a lot of space for creative expression. It can be laid out in even rows, offset or diagonally. For beginners, the simplest and fastest option is recommended, when the squares are located exactly on top of each other.

The running drawing looks like this.

Laying tiles in a “running start”

Facing diagonally.

To create complex combinations of tiles of different colors, it is recommended to first lay out a pattern on the floor, then outline a diagram on the wall, and only then proceed with finishing.

Prices for heat-resistant tile adhesive

heat resistant tile adhesive

Video - The principle of laying tiles

Wall cladding with terracotta flagstone

Heat-resistant terracotta tiles are a popular solution in bath rooms. It is moisture resistant and durable, withstands high temperatures and allows you to create original and beautiful design walls

The technology for laying it is somewhat different from facing conventional thin ceramic tiles. Terracotta is a heavier material and requires special glue or mastic.

Below are step-by-step instructions for tiling with terracotta flagstone.

  1. Apply mastic to the flagstone in a thick, thick layer. More adhesive is required than when laying lighter tiles.
  2. Press it against the wall and level it.

  3. We install the remaining slabs.
  4. For even joints, we lay pieces of drywall between the slabs.

  5. When laying parallel rows, do not forget to check the horizon with a level.
  6. After 10 hours, the seams can be filled. To do this, we use a special wide-joint heat-resistant grout. We dilute it with water and beat with a construction mixer until it has a homogeneous consistency. Properly prepared mass resembles thick sour cream.
  7. We free the structure from the plasterboard squares.
  8. Filling with grout construction gun. We cut the nose of the gun at an angle of 60 degrees, the hole should be 8-10 mm.
  9. Fill the gaps between the slabs with grout. The squeezed-out mass should not go beyond the level of the cladding, nor should it fall on the front side of the slabs.

    Be careful when handling the gun. If the mastic does get on decorative surface, do not try to wipe it off right away. Wait 2 hours, then scrape off the dried compound without rubbing it.

  10. The grout is distributed along the seam in any direction convenient for you. You can first go through the horizontal joints, then along the vertical ones, or vice versa.
  11. After 2 hours we begin decorative stitching. This will give a complete, finished look facing.

  12. For jointing, you can use a simple screwdriver with a width work surface 7-8 mm or rigid wire ring.
  13. Finally, put on clean gloves and run your index finger along all the seams.

Bathroom floor finishing

If the floor is made of wood, then it does not require any additional finishing.

Start facing from the corner. Unlike wall decoration, an ideal horizon is not created on the floor, i.e. the tile is located at a slight slope towards the drain hole.

Before applying the solution, mark the location of the squares on the floor using a level.

  1. Cement mortar is poured onto the concrete.
  2. Level with a spatula.
  3. The surface is covered according to the size of the tile; in this case, two rows are laid out simultaneously.
  4. The serrated side of the spatula creates a pattern on the mortar for better adhesion of the cladding surface.
  5. Lay out rows of tiles. Using a rubber hammer and level, set the desired slope and level it. Please note that for the first row, the tiles do not need to be pre-immersed in water. The rest of the base is covered with soaked cladding.

    Photo - laying tiles on the floor

  6. In the corners, the tiles are cut to the required dimensions. To do this, marks are made on the tiles and followed by a tile cutter.
  7. Identical plastic crosses are inserted into the gaps.

  8. After a couple of days, the seams can be filled with grout.

On independent finishing Baths take a lot of effort and time. It is necessary to solve a number of important problems - what material to choose, how to attach it correctly, how to ensure safety during operation and create a cozy and harmonious atmosphere in the premises. The recommendations and step-by-step instructions given in the article will help you cope with the task and, after completing all the work, enjoy a good and complete rest during bath procedures.

Tile on the floor - photo

Video - How to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a bathhouse

The bath complex includes a steam room, a dressing room, a washing room and a relaxation room. In more primitive, compact designs, the last two rooms are absent, but rest will be deprived of a certain comfort. There are many traditions associated with the Russian bathhouse in our country. The benefits of steaming were highly valued back in the days Ancient Rus'. Even any poor person washed himself in the bathhouse every Saturday; perhaps it was precisely this regularity that determined the heroic health for which the Russians were famous. The structure was always erected on the outskirts, away from residential buildings. Although the explanation for this is easy to find in folklore (dirt and the concentration of unclean spirits), it is more likely that our ancestors followed basic rules fire safety. There were no icons in the bathhouse; they tried not to bring utensils from it into the house. Superstitions said that it was chosen as a home by a small dirty trickster - a bannik, who, like the brownie, had to be constantly appeased with food.

All ritual fortune-telling took place in this building, because the holy images here did not keep an eye on the young girls eager to find out the name of their betrothed. Although modern alternatives to baths have now appeared - saunas (Finnish version), Jacuzzis, Japanese barrels, they still remain relevant. The most “soulful” holiday is spent here. Moreover, the process of steaming with birch brooms and herbal steam takes up only a small part of leisure time, and special attention is paid to friendly conversations in the relaxation room after the procedures. The washing area in the bathhouse is necessary for rinsing after the steam room. Some people think that you need to come here washed, because clean skin Pores open better under the influence of steam, because the procedure is more designed for healing. In the article we will look at examples of arranging washing stations and the rules for their design.

Advantages of the washing compartment

In the spacious baths there is a separate room for washing. If the building is small and does not have central heating, then this functional area combined with a steam room, and separation from it is carried out using a partition. Both location options have their pros and cons. A separate washing room allows you to:

  • Create unique interior premises.
  • Use strong and durable finishing materials (tiles).
  • Provide simultaneous washing for several people at once if it is equipped with a pair of shower stalls.
  • Simplify Maintenance soul.

Among the disadvantages of this option, only the need to connect central heating to heat a separate room and water is noted. Washing rooms combined with a steam room are also not without advantages:

  • Space saving.
  • A practical interior if the stove with an elongated firebox is located in the middle.
  • Fuel savings, since technically only one room will have to be heated.

Unfortunately, the combined option has one significant drawback - the room becomes less convenient to use if a whole group of people are steaming at the same time.

Requirements for washing

The washing room in the bathhouse must be equipped correctly. Particular attention should be paid to:

  • Ventilation;
  • Plum;
  • Carrying out electrical wiring;
  • Water supply system;

We are talking about the features of arranging a separate room. If the washing room is combined with a steam room, then the list of necessary equipment may differ.

Water supply system

The water supply system in the washing room must operate uninterruptedly. In this case, the resource reserve can be calculated by the number of people who on average visit the bathhouse. This nuance applies to those buildings to which water has to be delivered manually by filling the tank. To simplify the calculations, you can use average values ​​as a basis. In one session, an adult needs about 40 liters, of which 1/4 comes from hot water. In such washrooms, as a rule, there is only one shower. Even at the construction stage, the foundation of the water supply system is laid and pipes are laid. Heaters use electric or gas or both. In this case, one will be the main one, and the second will become a spare one. If you plan to visit the bathhouse in large groups, then it is better to choose a floor-mounted water heater, since the volume of its tank will be at least 100 liters of water.

If there are problems with electricity in the room, then you can use a modern stove-heater with a heat exchanger. Unlike its counterpart with a built-in tank, this unit allows you to remove heated water to water intake devices located in other rooms.

Ventilation

In wooden baths in washing rooms, the humidity level changes and strong temperature fluctuations occur. Naturally, it is necessary to install a ventilation system that will provide the room with high-quality air circulation. In its absence, the body of a person staying in the washing room may overheat, the appearance of mold, the spores of which can enter the lungs, and the concentration of unpleasant “stagnant” odors. Ventilation can be natural or forced. In the first case, air circulation occurs due to pressure difference. The air duct network is created and installed manually. Forced ventilation supply type can be used if you are unable to natural system cope with the volume of air masses or in the absence of any at all. In this case, the main driving force is the fan, which pumps air, and the filter system cleans it.

Types of drainage systems for wastewater

The best option would be to connect to a centralized sewer network or integration with a residential building system. If this is not possible, then there are several ways to remove wastewater:

  • Installation storage tank. Wastewater will have to be pumped out systematically.
  • Drainage system. Not the most reliable option, which is used for small baths. The basis of the drainage system can be a well or a “pillow”. Water will drain into the ground naturally. This sewer system is considered the simplest to install, but a mistake can be costly, including the destruction of the floor of the building.
  • Cesspool. It is placed at a distance of 2-2.5 m from the bathhouse. The pipe without bends for draining is brought in at an angle. The size of the pit is calculated based on the average number of people and the frequency of their visits to the bathhouse.
  • Septic tank. The construction will be quite expensive. The main difference in arranging a septic tank for a bathhouse from a similar unit for a home is the depth of the pit, which is almost half as much. You can make your own inner tubes from KAMAZ tires or concrete rings.

When settling in sewer system There are three main aspects to consider:

  • Depth of groundwater.
  • Soil type and characteristics.
  • The depth of soil freezing.

For example, on clay soils it is impossible to develop drainage system, and for sandstones in which water does not stagnate, it is optimal.

Electrical wiring - safety first

Steam is an excellent current conductor, so the general switch, panel and distribution boxes must be installed in the waiting room. Lamps for the washing room, as well as for the steam room, require special ones. Their design must include a heat-resistant lampshade, a ceramic socket and a wooden lampshade. If the owners are confident in the quality of the ventilation system, then this rule can be neglected. But it is not advisable to place sockets in the washing room. The safest place for them, where the risk of short circuiting is low, is the dressing room. Switches can be used as usual, as in a simple shower in a house, but this again depends on the quality of ventilation.

In wooden bathhouses, the entire electrical wiring system must be open. But they do not stretch it along the baseboards, but through the attic for greater safety.

Stylistic direction and features of finishing materials

To make the interior of the washing room look beautiful and complete, you need to choose the right design style. The design does not impose any restrictions on the choice of direction. Among the popular and unusual options note:

  • Traditional Russian style with logs or beams for finishing. If the area of ​​the room allows, then shower cabins are supplemented with a cold water plunge pool.
  • Luxurious, modern loft with high ceilings and open system communication lines.
  • Experimental and unusual for a bathhouse neoclassicism, which organically combines traditions and trends of modern interior fashion.
  • Laconic Mediterranean style with ceramic tiles in decoration and calm color scheme, in which white, jade, green and blue shades predominate.
  • Roman style with columns or pilasters, arched vaults and decorative moldings.

Also used for decoration are traditional Provence, Scandinavian, eco style or conceptual trends: minimalism, high-tech, chalet.

Wooden panels and lining

To emphasize the style of a log bathhouse, the interior decoration of the premises is done using wood, and the sink is no exception. The lining is classified according to the type of material used into coniferous (pine, cedar, spruce) and deciduous (linden, aspen, oak, alder). For finishing the steam room and washing room, the second type is used. Conifers release resins when the air is heated. The lining is divided into four grades, among which “extra” is considered the highest quality and most expensive. By profile type, we can note euro, soft-line, calm, American and imitation logs (block house) or timber. Lining is one of the types of wooden panels. According to this classification, there are two more types: MDF and chipboard. They are not recommended for finishing the washroom, since the materials contain adhesives that can release when heated. Lining has a number of advantages:

  • Easy to install.
  • Eco-friendly and pleasant smell of forest indoors.
  • Aesthetic beauty.
  • Resistance to mechanical damage.

One of the disadvantages is the presence of micropores in the wood, which, when filled with moisture, can cause deformation of the panel and become a breeding ground for mold.

Ceramic tile

Tiled floors and walls can only be decorated with a washing room, but for a steam room this option is taboo, since the tiles can get very hot and burn a person. Ceramics has a number of advantages:

  • Strength and durability.
  • Increased resistance to mechanical damage.
  • A wide range of designs, ornaments and color palettes.
  • Possibility of replacing one element without compromising the integrity of neighboring ones.
  • Easy to care for and non-sensitive to aggressive household chemicals.

One of the disadvantages is the fragility of the tiles before installation: if a fragment is accidentally dropped on the floor, it will most likely crack.

Artificial and natural stone

Natural stone masonry in the washroom will create a unique natural pattern and emphasize the originality of the interior of the room. The main natural minerals used for interior decoration of rooms are marble, sandstone, granite and travertine. The surface polished to a glossy shine with small inclusions of quartz will become a magnificent decoration of the interior composition and will be in harmony with the metal.

Artificial stone is classified into acrylic, polyester, cast marble or onyx, quartz agglomerate. The imitation is inferior to the original in strength. Composite compositions may contain resins that become unstable when heated, so this material cannot be used to decorate a washing room combined with a steam room. Both artificial and natural stone have high thermal conductivity, so again they are prohibited for decorating surfaces in rooms that are systematically heated.

Heavy natural stone You can finish sections of the wall not exceeding 0.5 m in height. If you use material higher, the masonry may collapse.

Plastic panels

PVC panels have long been used for finishing bathrooms. A separate washing room is not much different from these rooms. Polyvinyl chloride is not at all afraid of moisture. There are no micropores in the material, like in wood, so water does not linger in them, which means there is no place for mold and fungi to multiply. Plastic panels are easy to clean using a simple soap solution. The material boasts an affordable price and a wide range of color variations. Stories about the dangers of everything synthetic are only partially true. While creating quality PVC substances harmful to the human body are not used. Unfortunately, polyvinyl chloride quickly wears out, acquiring a “non-marketable appearance”, is sensitive to mechanical stress, and the panel can crack from an impact. Installation and replacement of a damaged fragment is easy. Unscrupulous manufacturers may offer low-quality products, so you should not chase extreme savings, as it can cost much more if the material turns out to be toxic.

Usually baths are equipped with several compartments. This is a rest room, a dressing room and a washing area. Particular attention must be paid to the last room in the bathhouse, since it is in the washing room that the temperature regime and humidity level. In a washing bath, it would be appropriate to equip a shower room, purchase and install tubs, or even make a small pool.

But benches are indispensable elements in the washing department of a bathhouse. They are very convenient for performing various procedures, for example, for massage. Such a washing machine in a bathhouse will delight you for many years.

Nuances in arrangement

What the washing compartment of the bathhouse will look like and what elements will be present in it must be thought out in advance. First of all, it is necessary to provide a device for the flow of water into the bathhouse, how it will be heated and a method for draining it. Ventilation is also of no small importance in the washing section of the bathhouse, since moisture is constantly present there and heat. With high humidity in the bath, there is a risk of mold and mildew.

Next, we determine the dimensions of the washing compartment of the bathhouse. Here you need to decide exactly how many people will wash in the bathhouse. It is traditionally believed that there is approximately up to 1.2 m2 per person. But in principle, everything is decided by the tastes and capabilities of the bathhouse owners.

As for the material, then interior decoration washing should only be made from natural materials.

Wood finishing

In the washing section of the bathhouse it is necessary to use coniferous wood. Since the bathhouse has a high level of humidity, and the peculiarity of these rocks is the resistance to moisture due to the resin content, which prevents the material from rotting. In order to provide greater protection, the wood should be treated with special products.

Facing tiles in the washing compartment of the bathhouse

This is one of the most durable materials. It is distinguished by such characteristics as durability and ease of maintenance. The variety of material is very large, both in color and in original design solution. The sizes of the tiles are also different and you can choose any one if necessary. The disadvantages of this material are that the surface ceramic tiles very slippery. IN Lately Types of ceramic tiles with special characteristics have appeared that allow them to be used for decoration in the bathroom or bathhouse. But, nevertheless, in order to avoid injury, it is better to additionally use wooden grates or rubber mats on the floor in the washing compartment of the bathhouse.

Application of natural stone

It is used much less frequently due to its high cost. Most often, this type of finishing is performed in combination with ceramic tiles or wood. The advantages of this material include its durability, strength and environmental friendliness. But the downside is that working with this material is quite labor-intensive and can hardly be done without the help of specialists. Much easier to work with artificial stone. It is very light, and finishing the walls of the bathhouse yourself will not be difficult. And in price it wins compared to natural material.

Lining and PVC panels

The characteristics of natural materials were presented above. But in some cases, artificial ones can also be used. These include lining and PVC panels. First of all, this material reasonable price. It also wins in terms of installation method. But it is significantly inferior in environmental friendliness and resistance to mechanical damage.

The use of materials such as fiberboard and chipboard, as well as impregnated wood, is strictly prohibited. At elevated temperatures, these materials begin to release substances harmful to the human body.

Features of arrangement at the construction stage

Everyone knows that the washing compartment is the part of the bathhouse in which moisture is constantly present. And this fact must be taken into account even at the stage of construction of the bathhouse. Here you need to select Construction Materials, which are able to withstand such a load and ensure the durability of the washing compartment in the bathhouse. In addition to the need to purchase materials such as clay, crushed stone, sand, cement, sawdust, you should definitely think about waterproofing materials. These include both the already common roofing felt and mastic, as well as the less commonly used expanded clay and insulation. various types and moisture-resistant drywall.

Also, at the stage of building a bathhouse, it is necessary to consider the arrangement of all communications. First of all, this is the water supply and provision of drainage in the washing compartment. If you plan to install a shower stall, then you need to purchase it ready-made. But the option of installing a shower yourself cannot be ruled out.

For the exhaust and ventilation device, all the necessary elements are purchased. At the stage of construction of the bathhouse, there must be pipes to ensure air flow and exhaust.

Installing a drain in a washing room

For correct device drainage in the washing compartment, it is necessary to correctly calculate the load that this system will carry. Here you should take into account the water consumption during bathing of one person. Usually up to 10 liters of hot and 40 liters of cold water. It is clear that with more active use of the washing compartment, the consumption will be much higher. And here you should think about whether the water drainage will cope with such a load and what dimensions can suit it. Therefore, it is necessary to produce a high quality drainage device.

Here is an example of a water drainage device in the washing compartment of a bathhouse and the procedure for carrying out the work:


Important! Under no circumstances should you install a drain well directly under the bathhouse, as this can lead to constant dampness in the room.

Washing room floor

Recently, in the washing department of the bathhouse, the floor lining has been made of ceramic tiles. Here you can save on facing material and buy inexpensive tiles. Since in this room it is recommended to cover the floor surface with rubber mats or install wooden coasters. This is due to the fact that it is very easy to slip on a wet surface of a ceramic floor.

Let's look at some tips for arranging floors in the washing department of a bathhouse.

First, you should fill the floor with concrete; after it hardens, we screed it with cement-sand mortar. It is advisable to insulate the floor. To do this, add expanded clay to the solution and fill it in layers. We place insulation between them. Special felt used in construction can act as insulation. First, it needs to be impregnated with bitumen. In the corners between the floor and walls we treat with bitumen to increase waterproofing.

Important! The floor in the washing compartment must be made with a slight slope in the direction of the drain hole.

When installing a wooden floor, it is necessary to completely cover the entire concrete with roofing felt and install the sheathing. A board is laid on the floor sheathing. If the floor is finished using ceramic tiles, then before laying it is necessary to treat the concrete with mastic.

In some cases, they refuse to finish the floor with any material, and simply lay wooden gratings tightly together. Before this, the slats of the gratings must be carefully sanded so as not to injure your feet with splinters during washing.

Important! You cannot cover the floor surface in the washing compartment of a bathhouse with linoleum. This type of flooring is not suitable for use in rooms with high level moisture.

Walls and ceiling

The finishing of the walls and ceiling in the washing compartment of the bathhouse can be done with the following materials:

  • wood materials;
  • ceramic tile;
  • natural or artificial stone;
  • lining.

Very often materials are combined.

Here are some instructions for finishing the walls and ceiling of the washing compartment in the bathhouse:


Conclusion

Before starting work on the installation of a bathhouse washing compartment, it is necessary to accurately determine all aspects: location, finishing material, drain arrangement. If the instructions given in this article are strictly followed, you can be sure that the bathhouse will delight you for many years without the need to make any alterations.