Many people associate an outdoor toilet in the country with an unpleasant smell, dirt and danger. But modern summer residents strive to make the most comfortable and safe place out of such a toilet.
The design is a small cabin, wooden or brick, inside there is a toilet bowl or a seat. Under the cabin is a cesspool, it is she, or rather, the accumulation of waste in it, that are the reasons bad smell. In the process of decomposition, human waste releases a foul-smelling gas - methane, which, moreover, is also dangerous to health - when visiting the toilet, a person can lose consciousness.
Methane vapors penetrate the wood and destroy it, as a result they deteriorate wooden floors and there is a risk of collapse of the structure. Hence the conclusion: it is necessary to prevent the accumulation of gases and ensure their free exit. For this, ventilation is needed in the outdoor toilet.
How is the outdoor toilet
The easiest way to lay the ventilation system is at the stage of building the toilet. In an existing booth, it will be a little more difficult to equip ventilation.
The device of the toilet in the country is simple:
- a cabin is being built above the ground;
- a cesspool is dug underground.
The easiest option is when the cesspool is located directly under the booth. This is a common option and easy to build with your own hands. But toilets are becoming more and more popular, the cabin of which is removed from the pit, you can install a toilet bowl in them, and organize sewage disposal through pipes. It's much more complex structure, involving the supply of water supply and sewerage.
Description of the ventilation system in the toilet
For best results it is necessary to equip ventilation in the booth and in the cesspool.
There are two types of hood:
Scheme of the ventilation system for the toilet in the country - natural;
- forced or mechanical.
Natural works thanks to the draft formed by the air flow. Warm air rises and cold air accumulates at the bottom. If you make two holes: one from above, the second from below, then the flow of cold air coming from the street will displace warm air with methane vapor through the upper passage.
To ensure the best traction, it is necessary to use a pipe, while its diameter must be at least 15 cm and a height of 2–2.5 meters. In general, it is considered optimal when the pipe protrudes at least 1.5 meters beyond the roof level.
Ventilation in country toilet
Forced ventilation provides for the connection of a fan that will promote air circulation inside the cabin. In order for the toilet to have fresh air, it is necessary to have a window for ventilation. You can combine both types of hood in the booth for best results, but it is strictly forbidden to install a fan in the cesspool - only exhaust pipe.
What can you make a ventilation system with your own hands
In order to equip ventilation in the cesspool, you will need the following materials:
- pipe, 110 mm in diameter and 2.5 m long;
- fasteners - 2-3 pieces;
- deflector - 1 pc.
For the ventilation system in the toilet you will need:
- pipe, 110–115 mm in diameter, 2.5 m long;
- connecting corner;
- decorative grille on the vent;
- clamps - 3-4 pcs;
- umbrella or deflector.
If a forced system is used, then a fan is also needed.
As a rule, toilets in the country have a small area, so the most primitive fan, whose power does not exceed 30 watts, will suffice. The form should be chosen depending on the place where it will be installed. It is most convenient to mount in the window. In this case, it is better to purchase a square model.
If you plan to install it in wooden wall, it will be easiest to cut round hole. The fan will work long time Therefore, it is better to choose a quality model that will last more than one year.
The fan will need electricity to operate. As a rule, its cut is brought to the toilet to provide lighting. The socket must be located in such a place that moisture does not get on it, it can be mounted in the wall and closed with a box.
The fan has a protective grill, which tends to get clogged. Therefore, you must not forget to clean it regularly, not only to ensure the smooth operation of the device, but also so that fresh air enters inside, and not polluted with dust.
How to make ventilation
Before starting work, prepare the necessary tools:
- bayonet shovel;
- drill - if the walls of the booth are wooden;
- perforator - if brick walls;
- hacksaw for metal;
- roulette;
- level;
- self-tapping screws.
DIY cesspool ventilation system
By using bayonet shovel a hole is dug over the pit, the diameter of which should be slightly over size pipes. Such a hole should be made near rear wall cabin so that you can conveniently fix the pipe with clamps. Lower the pipe into the pit to a depth that is less than the maximum fill mark. That is, so that waste does not get into the ventilation shaft.
With the help of fasteners and clamps, the pipe is fixed on the wall of the booth. The bottom is dug in with earth. A deflector or umbrella is put on top.
The advantages of the deflector is that this device is able to increase traction up to 30% due to the force of the wind. Therefore, if possible, it is worth giving preference to a deflector, rather than an ordinary umbrella, which only protects from precipitation.
Such simple design ventilation cesspool, made by yourself, will prevent an unpleasant smell in the toilet. If the cabin is not made airtight, there are slots, openings, windows that open, and the toilet bowl or seat has a tight lid, then only the hood from the pit will be enough. But, in this case, a mute unpleasant odor will still be present. If there is a need to get rid of it, then you should proceed to the equipment of the ventilation system inside the cabin.
Do-it-yourself ventilation in the toilet cubicle
Sequencing:
- on top, along the back wall of the toilet, a round hole is made according to the diameter of the cooked plastic pipe. It should be as high as possible, but at least 15 cm from the roof level. The hole is made with a drill or puncher;
- a corner pipe is installed in the resulting opening;
- the slots are blown with mounting foam;
- the main part of the pipe is attached to the corner element;
- using clamps and fasteners, the pipe is fixed to outer wall toilet
- an umbrella or deflector is put on top;
- inside, the excess part of the pipe is cut off and closed with a decorative ventilation grill.
At the next stage, you need to make a hole at the bottom to ensure the flow of cold air:
- using a drill or puncher, a hole is drilled in the lower part of the wall, at a distance of 20–30 cm from the floor. It is better to choose the opposite wall, the one in which the pipe is installed;
- two decorative grilles are installed using self-tapping screws or other fasteners.
This is the final stage - the ventilation in the country toilet is ready.
If in the cold season it will blow strongly from the lower hole, then you can close it with a barrier.
Video: How to care for an outdoor toilet in the country?
Almost everyone who has a dacha knows what a toilet is on the street. For many, it is associated with an unpleasant odor and the likelihood of falling into a cesspool. If we can’t advise you anything with the second one, only if you strengthen the floor, but the hood in the country toilet will cope with unpleasant odors.
Everyone roughly knows what a toilet looks like on the street: a small wooden structure, which smells unpleasant, sometimes you can find a building made of bricks. In addition to what is above the ground, there is another element - a cesspool. It serves to collect waste products.
Standard design
Causes of an unpleasant odor
The source of an unpleasant smell in a country toilet is a cesspool. This is due to the fact that it accumulates a mass of all kinds of gases, which ultimately turn into methane, and it is he who emits such an unpleasant odor. In addition to the fact that the cabin smells unpleasant, this gas leads to the destruction of the structure itself. This is due to its long impact on the structure, in this process the wooden or concrete structure is impregnated with methane, as a result of which its service life drops significantly. And based on this, we can conclude that after a certain time of operation it will be dangerous to use such a toilet, since there is a high probability of falling into a cesspool.
Cesspool
Waste disposal methods
The drain method is selected depending on how it is used. outdoor toilet. There are two main options, not so much a drain as a booth installation option.
- It can be placed directly above the cesspool
- Near a cesspool.
Which option you choose depends on how often you use it. If, say, the toilet will be used only during an infrequent visit to the hacienda (rest), then in this case you should not complicate everything, and you can choose the first installation option.
If the outdoor toilet is used as the main one, then it is worth choosing the second option, but in this case it is necessary to run a water supply to it or come up with another drain system.
If the second option was chosen, do not think that you can neglect the ventilation system. It is also needed, as in the first case.
Pit toilet
The principle of operation of the ventilation system
There are two main types of ventilation:
- Mechanical
- Natural.
To make it clear, none of the systems can work without two elements: an inlet and an exhaust duct. If at least one is missing, then the draft stops, therefore, the exhaust air does not leave the room.
And now let's dwell on the choice of the method of air circulation, consider all the pros and cons of each of the systems.
mechanical ventilation
This method of purifying the air from extraneous accumulations is considered the most effective, but besides that, it is also more expensive. This is done by installing a fan in the exhaust opening leading to the outside. Thanks to the supercharger, the traction force is matched, resulting in increased performance. Everything seems to be fine, except that the price bites a little, but there are other disadvantages:
- More complex installation for an outdoor toilet
- Power dependency
- During the operation of the device, it may be necessary to change parts, and the use itself is more expensive.
Fan
But despite this, if you want your toilet to smell like a meadow for a whole year, consider installing compulsory system ventilation.
natural ventilation
For those who want to save some money and are not worried about a slight unpleasant smell in the summer, they can safely choose a natural ventilation system. It will be enough to remove excess methane accumulating in the cabin space. In addition, equipping the toilet in this way of air circulation is quite simple.
The following can be distinguished character traits this way of purifying the air:
- Ease of execution
- Cheapness
- It works weaker than forced, and is not effective enough in the summer.
Pull-out toilet
Installation Features
Let us first consider one common moment in the forced and natural exhaust - this is the removal of gas from the cesspool. Each of the options needs this moment. What do we need in order to do this?
- bayonet shovel
- Downspout fixtures
- Drill or puncher, depending on what material the toilet cubicle is made of
- Protective wrap for pipe
- Plastic pipe with a diameter of 100, or a little more, millimeters
- Deflector.
Installation process
- First you need to dig a through hole with a shovel in order to run the pipe underground, into a cesspool
- Then install the drain mounts to the rear wall of the cabin
- Mount the pipe, it should be about half a meter above the roof level
- Install a deflector at the top end of the pipe.
Pipe coming out of a cesspool
Now you have made sure that too much methane does not accumulate in the cesspool.
Let's move on to the installation features of each of the ventilation methods.
Installation of mechanical ventilation
As you already know, this option for cleaning the toilet cubicle from an unpleasant smell is the most effective. And as already mentioned, for its operation it is necessary to choose a fan that will be installed in the exhaust hole located in the booth.
An important point. In no case should the blower be installed in a chimney coming out of a cesspool.
Now let's talk about the location of the supply and exhaust channels. In order to achieve maximum effective work, it is necessary to place them on opposite walls. In addition, the supply duct is installed at a height of half a meter above the floor, and the exhaust duct at a small distance from the ceiling.
supply channel
What will be required
As mentioned earlier, you will need a fan. But which one to choose? To provide a standard country toilet, which has an area of \u200b\u200bapproximately two square meters, a device with a power of 30 watts is perfect. There is no point in buying something more productive.
Tool kit:
- Perforator or drill, depending on the material of construction
- Screwdriver, tape, pliers
- Roulette and level.
We decided on the tool, it remains only to purchase additional materials:
- Everything related to the connection to the power supply, namely: a switch, adapters and a cable with a protective layer against rain
- Protective grille for supply and exhaust ducts.
Installation
Switch
The first thing to do is to extend the power supply to the toilet cubicle. If it is located near the house, then the cable is pulled in a suspended way from the attic. After that, in the booth, electricity is conducted to the installation site of the fan and a switch is installed. Next, using a perforator or drill, supply and exhaust holes are made.
Now that everything is ready to install the fan, we mount it in the exhaust hole, fix it with self-tapping screws or building glue, and connect it to the power supply. It remains only to close the supply and exhaust channels protective grilles.
Installation completed.
The natural ventilation system is made similarly to forced ventilation, only it is not required to conduct power supply and install a fan. The principles of operation remain the same.
A country house on 6-10-20 acres is a place where you can both relax and work, growing some crops (or some animals). Like any building, a dacha needs constant air exchange - this is necessary both for the people who are there and to prevent dampness and mold.
Let's make a reservation right away: below we will talk about simple country houses, and not about “serious” cottages designed for comfortable year-round living.
The main nuances and rules for arranging ventilation in country houses
For the most part, a country house is a building with an attic, a basement, a wood-burning stove and usually a small area. It can be built from wood, brick or blocks.
Often, in the construction of seasonal buildings, they try to save on everything they can. Therefore, most often such houses do not have any "full" heating, ventilation, or insulation. Therefore, in winter, if it is possible to be in them, then perhaps in outerwear and with a heated stove.
From the basic rules for arranging a ventilation system, the following points can be distinguished:
- The system should be done, focusing on the seasons of using the cottage. If it stays closed all winter, you need to think about how it will be ventilated at this time.
- Ventilation is necessary not only in living rooms. Shed, attic, underground, basement - all this also requires ventilation.
- If inside any of the rooms is supported high humidity(which is common for dachas) - at least in this room it is better to make a forced system.
- It is necessary to equip both inflow and exhaust. If there is something for the air to enter through, but there is no normal exhaust system, the ventilation will not work. And vice versa: if there is an extractor hood, but air from the street does not flow inside, there will be no effect either.
Air exchange method depending on the type of building
The method of air exchange largely depends on the type of building. It could be:
- Wooden building. The tree is able to let air in through cracks and leaks, providing an inflow (albeit not always sufficient). Air can be removed through furnace chimney.
- House from blocks (metal containers). Such buildings are usually completely sealed and do not have ventilation, so you will definitely have to equip it yourself.
- Construction of block materials (brick, blocks of different types concrete) or concrete. Air does not pass through such walls, so the ventilation system must be laid during construction. Air removal can be carried out both through the chimney and through a separate ventilation duct.
How to understand if something needs to be done with ventilation?
If you are not building a cottage from scratch, but have (or purchased) a house, you need to decide whether it is worth worrying about air exchange, or everything is in order with ventilation.
The easiest way is to ask the previous owner about it. If this is not possible, or he himself is not aware (for example, he has not been to the country for a long time), then you can pay attention to such factors:
- Is there mold inside? The most obvious "indicator" that there are problems with air exchange.
- Does it feel damp inside?
- Inside on the windows, window sill, front door- Is there condensation?
- Is the air in the house stale, musty?
These points are worth paying attention to when you arrive at the cottage after some time. Dampness and stale air can be felt after a few days, but mold will grow if the microclimate is disturbed and you will not appear in the country for several months.
If you notice any of these "symptoms" - obviously not everything is in order with air exchange.
Calculation: how much air do you need?
Suppose that you are in the country only in warm weather. During the hot months, windows and/or doors are usually often open in dachas, and therefore an air supply is ensured in exactly the right amount. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the system, if we are talking about a “summer” house, only based on the winter period.
Since dachas are usually closed in winter, it is not necessary to create a strong air exchange in the building. It will be enough to provide a multiplicity of 0.35.
L = V xCr, Where:
- L- air exchange, in m³ /h which we need to create;
- V- the volume of the room;
- Kp - the rate of air exchange (for giving we took 0.35 - the norm for a residential bedroom).
Please note: ideally, the calculation should be made for each room (room) separately.
Air exchange systems: natural or forced?
One of the main differencesis the principle of creating air exchange - it can benatural or forced. Below we consider each option and how to arrange it with your own hands.
Natural
In this case, air will flow in and out of the room due to the pressure difference. Fans are not used in this circuit. You can read more about it separately.
Circuit is cheap (if you have to buy something, then the cheapest products, and you don’t need to spend money on electricity),but ineffective - air exchange largely depends on the weather, and it is difficult to regulate it. Suitable if you have a small house that is used only in the summer.
For inflow in natural ventilation systems, the following can be used:
- Supply valves - or.
- at the front door (suitable if the area of \u200b\u200bthe house does not exceed 20-40 "squares", otherwise you will have to use too large a ventilation grill).
- Windows with micro-ventilation (not relevant for cottages, since expensive windows are rarely installed in seasonal houses).
- In summer - just open windows or doors (but in winter, when they are closed, you still have to provide inflow in another way).
For exhaust - either a stove chimney can be used (that is, nothing else needs to be done if there is already a chimney), or an exhaust duct. It is mounted at a point as far as possible from the inflow point (so that air is drawn through the entire room).
The inflow is placed as low as possible, the hood - as high as possible, under the ceiling. If there are several rooms, the inflow points must be in each, and located opposite the door. The chimney can be removed either through the roof, above the ridge, or through the wall horizontally.
Visually about the natural system (video)
Forced
In this case, both supply and exhaust will be carried out using fans. Air exchange in this case is more stable, it can be adjusted. Suitable formore spacious houses, in which it is more difficult to organize ventilation in a natural way.
Otherwise, all the rules are the same as with the natural ventilation scheme - inflow points should be in each room, and installed opposite the door. Hood - is displayed through a pipe either on the roof or through the wall.
There is another option - an air duct system is mounted. 1 pipe with 1 fan enters the room, and branches out: a section is brought into each room through which air will flow.
Arrangement of ventilation for non-residential premises
An important nuance: ventilation (or rather, the supply of fresh air and the removal of the "old") is needed not only for rooms where people will be. Non-residential premises and spaces also need it:
- Underground.
- Barn.
- Attic.
- Basement.
The ventilation system in them is needed to prevent moisture and mold.
Since the listed places usually have a small area, and do not need an inflow a large number air - most often they just need to make holes in the walls. You need to do them opposite each other.
Naturally forced circuit: air is supplied through supply valves in each room and is removed through air ducts connected to the same duct with a fan
A more efficient option is when a simple hole is made for the inflow, and the exhaust is drawn up through the pipe (that is, the inflow point is located below the exhaust point).
If the area of these premises is large, and/or natural ventilation they have, and can not cope - you can organize part of the system forcibly. The options are:
- Supply ventilation is organized through the holes. Exhaust - carried out through fans that are placed in the wall.
- Supply ventilation is organized through the holes. To remove air into the room, a section of the air duct is started, which is connected to the exhaust duct in the living quarters.
- Both supply and exhaust are carried out through air ducts, which are supplied to each room separately.
Arrangement of ventilation for residential premises
The arrangement of the ventilation system for residential premises is a little more complicated than for non-residential ones.
The simplest option is natural: the inflow is organized through the holes in each room, and the air is removed through the stove chimney. This method is more than enough for small house an area of 25-30 "squares".
If this is not enough, or if there is no stove in the house, you can install an exhaust pipe to remove air, which will go to the roof or through the wall to the street.
If this is not enough, or if you immediately want to get a more serious and efficient system, it is better to insert a fan into the exhaust pipe. Inflow - everything is also organized through the holes in each room.
Ventilation systems with forced air supply and removal are rare for summer cottages: the areas are too small for their use. Usuallyeven for big houses sufficient forced extraction.
An example of a finished ventilation scheme for a house from SIP panels (video)
What to do in winter?
P winding the cottage in the summer - you can without problems. Another thing is to make an air exchange system when it's cold outside.
It would seem - why in the country ventilation? There is plenty of fresh air around, just open the windows and breathe! An - no. There is no way to avoid drafts, and there is no way to control the air flow. Most country houses are mothballed for the winter. “Visiting” cottages for the New Year holidays, many owners feel a musty atmosphere and heavy air, the smell of mold. This is the result of a lack of air exchange, so ventilation in country house needed.
In ancient times, when houses were built entirely of logs, no one thought about how to make ventilation in the country. Because the "live" wood passed fresh air from the street through itself. He penetrated into the window cracks, and into the caulked joints between the logs. Unplastered walls supported optimal humidity and temperature. An important element of ventilation country house served as an oven. Through chimney exhaust air was drawn out.
Thus, the design of a house built according to old models implies natural ventilation.
The toilet in the country also needs ventilation, especially if the cottage is used all year round, and faeces accumulate in the cesspool. How to do effective ventilation at your favorite dacha, spending a minimum of money?
Stoves and fireplaces for ventilation of small cottages
A modern take on vintage construction technologies: This cottage from a bar, with a fireplace or a stove and always wooden window frames. Such a country house is ventilated perfectly without special investments.
Wall material will not let the summer heat into the rooms. In winter, the stove will serve as a hood and a heater at the same time. But in order to assemble such a dacha ventilation system with your own hands, you will need the skills of a stove-maker.
A good option for ventilation in the country can be a fireplace. The air flow will go through the cracks in the frames or open windows (if the windows are made of plastic). Blowing - through the chimney.
At the same time, the problem of heating is also solved for country house used all year round.
Such a system is suitable for a building made of any materials, small area and used mainly in the warm season.
Mechanical dacha ventilation system
In the country, mechanical ventilation is justified in the following cases:
- large house;
- house 2 or 3 storey;
- house built by frame technology excluding natural air exchange.
ventilation forced type in a country house, you can do it completely mechanical or combined.
The combined system is easier to install, it will cost less, including during operation.
Forced air outflow
The supply part of the combined ventilation of a country house can be equipped with your own hands.
If the windows are plastic, supply valves are installed in them. These devices are on sale, they are inexpensive. There are various models of window inlet valves. They are attached to the upper crossbar of the window sash.
The supply valve can be inserted directly into the wall of the house. This is a fairly simple mechanism, consisting of a pipe for which you will have to make a hole with a diameter of 5 cm and a damper that regulates the intensity of the air supply. In winter, the damper is closed as much as possible to avoid cooling the room. You should not buy complex valves with filters, because clean country air does not need to be cleaned.
Air outflow is provided mechanically. And only skilled craftsmen can handle this work of installing ventilation in a country house with their own hands. Exhaust channels stretched from places of the greatest air pollution (for example, kitchens) to the attic. An exhaust fan is installed here, which throws the exhaust air out. A negative pressure is created in the house, due to which fresh air is drawn through the supply valves.
Cons of mechanical extraction:
- during prolonged absence the owners of the house is left without ventilation;
- ventilation ducts need to be hidden under beams or boxes;
- additional power consumption for air extraction;
- it is desirable to select structural elements with the help of a professional.
It is better to entrust the calculation of the thickness of the air ducts and the fan power to a fan engineer.
Forced air supply
You can go the more expensive way by equipping your own hands with a forced air supply to the cottage ventilation system.
At the level of 2 meters from the soil surface is installed Supply unit. The air from the street is collected in the chamber, where it is heated (if necessary) and supplied to the rooms by a fan.
There are two ways to heat the air:
- electric heater;
- heating pipe.
The second is much more practical, but it must be designed simultaneously with the planning of the heating system.
The outflow is provided by ventilation vents in the kitchen, bathroom or toilet (if they are located in the house).
Do-it-yourself supply ventilation of the cottage
construction supply ventilation Do-it-yourself cottages are a complex and rather expensive process. But some craftsmen, thinking about how the ventilation of the dacha is done, come to original solutions. The air supply is carried out with the help of an air intake. It is mounted from the north wall. The installation consists of a pair of duct fans and two pipes through which air enters the body of an old but sealed refrigerator. Here, 2 radiators from the car are connected, connected to the recuperator. 2 - 4 pipes are sent to each room of the cottage (depending on the power of the installation and the area of \u200b\u200bthe room) with ventilation grilles. Supply grilles are placed 0.2 - 0.3 m from the floor.
The outflow of air is carried out in a natural way. Increased pressure inside the rooms squeezes air into the corridors, kitchens and bathrooms. Ventilation pipes are equipped here.
Prudent owners use the exhausted warm air in cold weather to heat the greenhouse. Those who want to take advantage of their experience will have to run the ventilation pipe not up through the roof, but in the direction of the greenhouse. The air will be evacuated forcibly by the “snail” pump.
Country house floor ventilation
To ensure good ventilation of the country house, you should also take care of air exchange in the underground. Ventilation of the floor in the country house protects it from decay and the whole house from distortions, prolonging the service life.
If the basement is not planned, the ventilation of the floor of the country cottage is provided by a system of vents (holes) in the basement. Most often, country houses are built with basements. The vents are left at different heights of the plinth, which improves the movement of air flows. The size of the vents is usually 10 x 15 cm. The number of holes is calculated depending on the terrain, the architecture of the building, the wind rose and the climate.
Floor ventilation wooden dachas consists of wall grilles that are mounted above the floor vents (also called ventilation sockets).
The grate must be placed at the junction between the boards.
In this way, it is possible to make a recess in a smaller board, so the strength of the floor does not suffer.
Before installing sockets, you should definitely calculate the air flow pattern, which depends on the arrangement, type and power of heating devices.
Do not lay carpets, cabinets or sofas on top of the grilles for ventilation of the country floor.
To improve the movement of air in the subfield of a country house, ventilation plinths will also help.
Holes are drilled in the baseboards through which air circulates freely from the room to the basement. This is a simple and affordable method of building ventilation in a country house with your own hands. The holes in the baseboards should be up to 1.5 cm in diameter. They are installed along opposite walls. Sometimes a ventilation plinth is required on only one side of the room, and a ventilation pipe is used to ensure sufficient air movement. Its exit is located 1.5 meters above the roof.
Try to make such ventilation of a country house with your own hands, just ask a specialist to make the necessary calculations.
Do-it-yourself ventilation in the country toilet
Most country toilets are built like a cesspool, which has a serious drawback - these are fetid gases that appear as a result of fermentation of feces. It is impossible to hermetically close the pit, so ventilation is necessary in the country toilet.
You can do all the work on installing the ventilation of the toilet in the country with your own hands. The ventilation of a country toilet is usually a single pipe leading from a pit along the back wall of the toilet. It ends 75 cm above the roof level. Pipes made of PVC or asbestos cement with a diameter of 10 cm are used. Metal brackets are convenient as fasteners.
A special hole for ventilation is provided in the cesspool, where the pipe is installed even before concreting. However, sometimes such a ventilation scheme for a country toilet is not always effective and odors penetrate into the cabin. Can be assembled with my own hands ventilation of the cabin of the country toilet. To do this, you need to purchase:
- two pieces of PVC pipe 0.5 m and 2 m with a diameter of 11 cm;
- 90 degree corner connection;
- umbrella or deflector;
- decorative lattice;
- fixture.
The exhaust hole for ventilation of the toilet in the country is drilled in the wall, as close as possible to the roof. The diameter of the hole must match the diameter of the pipe. The pipes are connected with a corner, a short piece is inserted into the hole. An extra piece of pipe from the inside of the room is sawn off. A deflector or umbrella is put on the upper cut of a long pipe, it is necessary to check with a level vertical arrangement pipes, after which it is attached with long screws and clamps to the wall. A ventilation grill is installed at the outlet of the pipe inside the toilet. To prevent blowing into the slots, they are filled with silicone or polyurethane foam.
To ensure receipt clean air a small hole is made inside the booth on the opposite wall (from the one where the exhaust pipe was inserted). It should be no higher than 0.2 m from the floor level and covered with decorative ventilation grilles.
The ventilation of an outdoor toilet will work according to this principle: fresh cool air enters the cubicle, rises up along with unpleasant odors and goes outside. But before you make the ventilation of the toilet cubicle in the country, you need to take care of the removal of gases from the cesspool. Otherwise, do-it-yourself ventilation of the country toilet will not be effective enough to deal with the stench.
Often annoy the owners of their own plots outside the city. The reason for such an unpleasant situation is non-compliance with the elementary rules for installing sewerage and treatment facilities. One of the important elements of communal systems is the ventilation of country toilets. The work of building a latrine begins with planning. But even with existing problems, you can eliminate them in functioning systems. Understanding circuit diagram operation of ventilation will help to choose the best way in a particular case to solve this problem.
Why do you need
When constructing a toilet on the site, one should not neglect the recommendations of specialists. The amount of work on the ventilation of the toilet in the country is not so significant as to save on their implementation. The result will be a complete outdoor recreation, where the owners and guests will enjoy the fresh air. Air exchange during the installation of treatment facilities is needed to solve the following problems:
- Getting rid of an unpleasant smell;
- Decreased concentration harmful substances in the sump;
- Air exchange is necessary for the work of bacteria that destroy drains.
Properly assembled ventilation in a country toilet allows you to extend its service life, since decay processes are blocked and reduce the risk of mold, for which favorable conditions vital functions are humidity and heat. In the absence of an influx of fresh air, this is precisely the situation that develops. During the decomposition of organic substances, heat is released, the timely removal of which optimizes the work of beneficial bacteria, preventing harmful microorganisms from multiplying.
Natural ventilation - the best choice for a country toilet
For suburban area, especially if they are not used regularly, there is no need to install complex and expensive devices. It is enough to observe the necessary measures for the installation of important structural elements. A window in the toilet will not solve the problem. It is necessary to create an inflow of fresh air and an extract directly from the waste collection point. The ventilation for outdoor toilets collected in this way will radically change the processes taking place there. The natural thrust created is enough for the normal operation of the system.
It is advisable to equip the closet with forced exhaust devices when, for example, it is decided to divert the outlet duct to a certain distance from the toilet, or the pipeline section is in a horizontal position. Such route schemes do not differ in functionality in the natural regime of inflow and exhaust. Often an outdoor toilet duplicates the main bathroom located in the house. They do not use it so often, so the issue of cleaning and care is not so relevant in comparison with the sewerage system, where the main flow of effluents goes. An outdoor toilet is very convenient in the summer, and with due attention during construction, it will not become a source of unpleasant odors, but a comfortable addition to a country holiday.
How to DIY
Good natural draft occurs when the duct is vertical and the pipe length exceeds 2.5 meters. If the lower end ventilation pipe is below ground level, and the upper one is above the roof, then the system will cope with the task. The diameter of the duct is also important. It is not recommended to make it less than 100 mm. To ensure good performance, it is necessary to make two ventilation inlets. One for the exhaust, the other for the inflow, and the lower end of the pipe of the first must be higher than the second. The principle of convection is used. The heated air from the cesspool rises up, where it is captured by the exhaust receiver. To replace it, the supply pipe sucks in the right amount of atmospheric masses.
Install the air duct both inside the toilet itself and outside. For independent work the best option will use a plastic kit. When installing ventilation in a country toilet, you will need an elementary set of tools:
- Roulette, ruler;
- Saw of any type (jigsaw, circular saw, hand saw);
- Screwdriver for fixing fasteners;
- Drill if additional holes need to be drilled.
Pipe work experience is not required. detailed instructions manufacturer or watching a video on this topic will be enough. During assembly, it is important to control the presence of seals, gaskets in all joints of the structure. To prevent moisture from entering the duct, debris and leaves, the ventilation in the toilet in the country house is equipped with a protective umbrella at the upper end of the pipe.
Having made a project and acquiring the materials necessary for work, you should strictly follow the assembly technologies and instructions for specific parts and elements. Special attention is given to sealing joints. The modern generation of building materials is different high level unification. The parts are standard and fit exactly together. Sealing rings, gaskets make the joints reliable and durable. When assembling, it is necessary to check the complete set of the entire device, and during assembly, do not ignore the advice offered by manufacturers.
The toilet in the country will meet expectations if the master follows the technology. Often, both professionals and amateurs use sealants to ensure tightness. Silicone-based formulations are popular today. The elastic structure and good adhesion make it possible to maintain the integrity of the joints even during vibrations and physical stress. Joints with sealant fully justify the small investment in their acquisition.
Another an important factor a successful fight against odor is the device of the latrine itself. If there is no supply air duct, then you can leave the hole open. When the toilet in the country is equipped with a full-fledged ventilation system for air exchange, it is better to make a cover. The best way to get rid of the problem of unpleasant odor is to install a regular toilet. Carrying water today does not seem like a difficult task. As a result, the toilet acquires completely new qualities. The toilet bowl has a device for the formation of a water plug. The drain moves along a sinusoidal curve. Pure water in this place is the most in an efficient way protection of air purity. In this case, it is possible to completely seal the internal volume of the toilet from the sump.
When building a latrine adjacent to the main building, you can use one more piece of advice from experienced craftsmen. You can fix the exhaust pipe along the wall of the house by stretching it to the roof of the main building. The length of the route will increase significantly. This method is borrowed from the practice of stove-makers. The higher the pipe, the stronger the thrust. It is possible that with this scheme it will be necessary to set the regulatory stop valves, because the high performance can cause a noticeable draft in the toilet.
You can improve traction with a deflector. Inexpensive device, easy to install on the upper end of the discharge pipe. special design creates vortex flows, which are converted into a directed movement of air masses. According to various estimates, the efficiency of the hood can increase by 10-20%. The device does not require electricity, it works autonomously, using only aerodynamic laws and rules.
