How to build a house from gas silicate blocks. How to build a house from gas silicate blocks with your own hands

Modern materials allow you to build a small building in a short time. Therefore, Northern Terema is very popular among developers building blocks made of foam concrete and gas silicate. They make durable buildings, the low weight of which allows for significant savings on the foundation: such buildings do not require a solid foundation.

Building a house from gas silicate blocks is economically beneficial for the reason that the building stones themselves are much cheaper than bricks.

Private houses made of aerated concrete have gained great popularity due to the quick construction time and light weight, which makes it possible to do without a solid foundation, which means the cost of construction is reduced.

Gas silicate is a type of foam concrete. The technology for producing gas silicate blocks involves placing quartz sand, cement, water, lime and aluminum powder into an autoclave. The latter is a gas-forming component and determines the unique properties of gas silicate. The volume of the crude mixture in the autoclave under the influence high temperatures increases several times. After laying out and hardening, building blocks are formed from the finished mass, from which houses can be quickly built.

Advantages of gas silicate

To protect the walls from getting wet, 2 layers of roofing material must be laid on the foundation where they rest on the plinth. Walls begin to be laid from the corners.

• construction made from it has low thermal conductivity;
• It is lightweight, making it easy to install with your own hands and can significantly speed up the pace of construction;
• fireproof, as it does not burn, but melts slowly;
• environmentally friendly;
• excellent vapor permeability. Houses made of aerated concrete blocks do not retain vapors indoors and do not accumulate moisture;
• ease of processing the block: it is easy to cut, you can easily hammer a nail into it and screw in a self-tapping screw;
• building stones have good sound insulation properties: thanks to the porous structure of aerated concrete, they are 10 times higher than those of brick.

Disadvantages of blocks

• high hygroscopicity of gas silicate blocks. These stones are capable of actively absorbing moisture from the air, so the construction of buildings from aerated concrete blocks is not recommended in regions with a maritime climate. High-quality waterproofing should protect the walls from moisture, but even in this case the possibility of premature destruction of the material is high;
• low frost resistance. According to the manufacturers of the material, adherence to manufacturing technology provides the stone with the ability to withstand up to 25 cycles, thanks to which it is possible to build warm houses. However, due to the relative cheapness of equipment for the production of foam concrete and gas silicate, these materials are often produced in garage conditions, which is called “on the knee”. The technological process is often disrupted and the cheapest components are used. All this leads to low quality aerated concrete blocks.

The structure of a pie made of aerated concrete.

Material characteristics

• The density of the material varies by brand from 500 to 800;
• According to compressive strength they are divided into classes: 2.5; 3.5; 5;
• when choosing blocks according to the frost resistance parameter, you should focus on the following: for external walls it should be at least F25, for internal walls - F 15;
• standard size of aerated concrete blocks: 20/30/60 cm. But these stones can be from 30 to 60 cm long, 9 to 30 cm wide and 19.5 to 30 cm thick. Many manufacturers produce blocks different sizes, from which small buildings can be built.

Binders

Apply glue to the blocks using a carriage whose width corresponds to the width of the masonry, a notched trowel or a ladle with a notched edge.

To lay a block with your own hands, you can use the usual construction material. cement-sand mortar. It is good because it allows you to even out imperfections in the shape of stones, if necessary. When working with this masonry mixture, the stones need abundant wetting, since gas silicate actively absorbs water from the cement-sand mixture, and it does not have time to gain the strength it needs. The solution is prepared based on proportions 1:3 or 1:4, where 1 is part of cement, the remaining numbers indicate the number of parts of sand. Water is added in small portions until a creamy consistency is obtained.

Special adhesive mixtures are produced for laying aerated concrete blocks. They are good because they allow you to build walls with a masonry joint no more than 3 mm thick. Recommended width is 2 mm. The adhesive contains cement-sand mixtures, mineralizing and plasticizing additives and other binding components. Tested by time and have good characteristics the following mixtures: “MasterOk”, “Zabudova”, products of the company “Pobedit” (“Egida G 31″ and “Pobedit TM 17″), “KrepsKGB”, “EK KEMILAX”.

Adhesive compositions are convenient for laying blocks with your own hands; the seam hardens within 24-28 hours and forms a monolith with the building stone. The consumption of mixtures for laying 1 m3 of aerated concrete blocks is no more than 25-27 kg. Distinctive feature The advantage of the adhesive joint is its ability to reduce heat transfer, due to which the possibility of the appearance of “cold bridges” in the masonry is eliminated and it is possible to build airtight houses. Many formulations are produced with antifreeze additives, which allows work to be carried out at low temperatures.

Scheme of reinforcement of a house made of aerated concrete.

Construction tools

• To process blocks with your own hands (cutting, leveling) you will need a hacksaw
• will ensure a straight line and precise cutting using a band or circular saw(the circular saw must be equipped with a ruler to control the cut);
• houses need to be built from material of the correct geometric shape, so a plane is used to cut off irregularities;
• in the blocks you will need to make grooves for electrical wires or reinforcing rods (a wall chaser is used for this);
• for marking you need a cord, tape measure, marker;
• it is impossible to build efficiently without using a level;
• the block is adjusted using a rubber mallet;
• a drill will be needed to create holes for sockets, communication pipes, etc.;
• to apply glue, you can use special carriages or a notched trowel;
• for grouting and sanding walls made of aerated concrete block you will need a grater and sanding mesh with your own hands;
• a trowel or trowel is used for laying mortar;
• for puttying you need to buy rubber spatula suitable size.

Masonry reinforcement

Using a mortar cutter, grooves are cut for laying reinforcement, glue for laying blocks is poured into them, and then the rods are completely pressed in.

Experts say that reinforcement does not have any effect on the load-bearing capacity of the masonry. Its purpose is to take on compression and bending loads and protect the walls from cracks. It is recommended to reinforce the masonry when one of the wall surfaces is planned to be plastered. This will eliminate the possibility of cracks appearing.

If you decide to do it outside the building protective cladding(for example, siding), and install gypsum board from the inside, then there is no need to reinforce the masonry. It will be enough to build reinforcing belts from reinforcement at the floor levels and in front of the device roof truss. The material used is reinforcement with a cross-section of at least 8 mm or steel strips of galvanized steel 8/1.5 cm. The steel strips are connected to each other by wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm, laid in a “snake”.

To lay it on the surface of the block, grooves are pre-cut. They are filled with glue, into which the rods are pressed so that it completely covers them. This will protect the reinforcement from air and moisture and prevent the development of corrosion.

Installation of openings

• if the masonry is reinforced, then the rods are laid in every 4th row, one row below the formation of window and doorways, jumpers, junctions. The rods must be located on both sides of the openings at least 90 cm;
• openings up to 1.5 m wide can be strengthened with the help of metal corners, for which cuts of the appropriate size are formed in the surface of the aerated concrete block. This will prevent differences in height from occurring. It is recommended to treat metal corners with an anti-corrosion compound or paint before installation. To make reinforcement easier and better, when preparing the corners between the walls of the opening, it is recommended to install a spacer made of wooden block suitable section;
• if the opening is wider than 1.5 m, then the best way reinforcement - pouring a reinforced concrete lintel. Its height must be at least 20 cm. Before pouring concrete, formwork is installed the desired shape and size, a reinforcement cage is placed in it. You can use a special U shape commercially available block. This will greatly simplify the process of forming and strengthening the opening.

Waterproofing device

Before laying the initial row of building stones, it is necessary to carry out cut-off waterproofing. It is performed using water-repellent materials: roofing felt, rubemast, roofing felt, glass insulation, bitumen-based mastics, mixtures based on polymers and cement. It should be noted that the construction of the first row is decisive for further masonry, so its surface must be perfectly leveled in the horizontal plane. To do this, the foundation strip is pre-leveled using cement-sand mortar.

Scheme of insulation of aerated concrete walls using a plaster facade.

Stripes waterproofing material must be laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm. It is recommended to seal the joints using bitumen or mastics based on it. Special attention is given to joints and corners. You can build walls only when high-quality waterproofing is done.

The construction of buildings made of aerated concrete does not provide for external waterproofing and vapor barrier of the walls. This will prevent moisture from escaping from the blocks. Vapor barrier membranes are installed indoors to protect aerated concrete blocks. During the construction of the roof, you should focus on the following sequence (from the inside out): vapor barrier, insulation laid between the rafters, waterproofing material.

Wall masonry technology

You need to build a house from gas silicate stones with your own hands at a height of at least 40 cm from the ground. The foundation tape is leveled using preliminary leveling and application cement mortar. Markings are made along the tape, according to which the first row of building stones will be lined up. To facilitate the work, beacons are placed in the corners, in places where they do not load-bearing walls and partitions, in long spans, to mark doorways.

Scheme of insulation of aerated concrete walls with a ventilated gap.

The lighthouse blocks are leveled with your own hands using a hydraulic level, and a mooring cord is stretched between them, which determines the height of the first row of masonry, which will greatly facilitate its construction. First, a stone is placed in the highest corner of the foundation strip; using it, the location of the remaining beacons is determined by a level.

The initial row of blocks must be erected by laying out a layer of glue or cement masonry mixture. The glue must be diluted to such a consistency that when applied with a notched trowel, the tubercles that form during this process do not spread. The thickness of the adhesive layer for the first row should be at least 2 cm. This will allow you to adjust the blocks vertically and horizontally using a rubber mallet.

When the construction of the initial row of walls of the house is completed, the cord is transferred to the row above in a similar way, starting with the installation of intermediate and corner blocks. Subsequent rows are laid with an offset of 1/2 stone in one direction or another. This will provide the necessary bonding for the masonry, as well as the strength and stability of the walls. The verticality of the masonry of the house is checked using a plumb line.

Adjustments to the installation of each block must be carried out with a rubber mallet, and do not forget to use a level for leveling.

Walls made of this material cannot be waterproofed with vapor-tight materials.

The facade must be ventilated. That is, its construction should begin with the installation of slats on external walls. And only after that protective facing material is hung on them.

During the construction of buildings made of aerated concrete, experts recommend not using insulation for walls: the best option Increasing their thickness is considered to provide thermal insulation.

External walls cannot be plastered with cement screed. This will prohibit moisture inside the gas silicate, and it will collapse prematurely.

The thickness of the adhesive seam should not exceed 3 mm.

If interior spaces leveling houses made of aerated concrete building stones gypsum plasters, then soon cracks will appear on them, repeating the pattern of the masonry. It is better to use finishing mixtures like Knauf.

Construction of the house should begin after calculations have been carried out required thickness walls

Boards for sheathing and rafter system should be treated with a fire-retardant composition.

Any metal parts used in masonry must be coated with an anti-corrosion compound.

IN Lately All larger number developers pay attention to such building materials as. This material has a number of advantages that make it so popular, especially in low-rise construction.

Even a person who is not a professional mason can build a house from gas silicate with his own hands.

It's not difficult, and anyone can do it if they want.

Advantages and disadvantages

As a material for the construction of house walls, gas silicate is becoming increasingly in demand. It has a low specific gravity. With the dimensions of a standard gas silicate block (600x200x300) mm 3, the difference in weight with sand-lime brick is approximately 1/2. To build the walls of a house with your own hands of the same area of ​​blocks, you will need much less, and the speed of their construction will be much higher.

Gas silicate, compared to brick, has a lower thermal conductivity coefficient. Walls built from such blocks have a temperature resistance three times higher than those built from brick. However, as the density of blocks increases, their heat-saving qualities decrease.

The walls of a house built from gas silicate blocks with your own hands, due to their porous structure, have excellent sound insulation properties.

Table of physical and technical indicators of cellular concrete blocks.

Another important characteristic of the walls of a house made of this material is their vapor permeability and ability to “breathe”. The microclimate is second only to wooden house, and even then not by much. A special feature of such a block is the release of carbon dioxide through the walls and the supply of oxygen from outside.

Gas silicate is fireproof, and low-rise buildings made from it are durable and reliable. Requirements to this material(strength class, characteristics of the solution) are set out in the relevant sections sanitary standards and rules.

Compared to a similar material - foam concrete, blocks made of gas silicate have more precise geometric dimensions and, when building the walls of a house with your own hands, allow you to use adhesive compositions. This, in turn, does not require highly qualified builders.

Another important characteristic of gas silicate blocks is their immunity to external influences environment. They are not subject to corrosion and rotting, they do not harbor microorganisms, mold and mildew.

The only drawback of this material is its low bending strength. Do-it-yourself construction of house walls from gas silicate must be accompanied by certain measures that will prevent the possible formation of cracks. The main ones include: monolithic foundation, reinforced masonry walls and rafter structure.

Foundation for a house

Scheme of foundations for a house made of gas silicate blocks: 1 - for external walls; 2 - under internal walls; 3 - under the stove. And also the floor diagram: A - facing sand-lime brick; B - air gap; B - waterproofing made of two layers of waterproofing. glued together; G - gas silicate blocks with dimensions of 300 X 200 X 600 mm; D - monolithic strip concrete or rubble concrete foundation; E - blind area; F - additional backfill around the perimeter of the building; 3- wooden spacer 200X200X25 mm; And - plank covering made of boards 35-40 mm thick; K - logs with a section of 150X 100, pitch 400-500 mm; L - concrete or brick column on cement-sand mortar; M - compacted clay 100 mm thick; N - two layers of roofing felt; O - sand backfill; P - furnace masonry.

Some inexperienced builders incorrectly assume that in order to build a house from gas silicate lightweight blocks, it is enough to make the same lightweight foundation. In fact, due to the low flexural strength, even a slight shift is enough to cause cracks to appear across the entire surface of the walls. That is why the foundation of a house made of such blocks, built with your own hands, must be strong and solid. The best way for any soil is to use reinforced concrete monolithic slab. Successful decisions columnar foundations with concrete or structural reinforcement are also considered belt type on a sand bed.

So, the foundation is the basis for any house. Professionals advise taking into account such things as hygroscopicity, and placing their first row at some distance from the ground. As a rule, two methods are used. In the first method, in order for the foundation to be above ground level, when performing it, you need to make formwork. If the foundation is made at ground level, the laying of walls should begin with the use of conventional sand-lime brick. As practice shows, to make the first row of gas silicate, it is enough to place the blocks at a distance of at least 50 cm from the ground.

The first step is waterproofing with 2-3 layers of roofing felt. It is recommended to lay the first row blocks using cement-sand mortar. The laying of the walls of the initial row is very important. The smoother it is, the higher quality all the masonry done by yourself will be. If done correctly, it will allow you to use the house in the future without unnecessary problems.

Execution of walls

The construction of walls begins with the installation of corner blocks. To continue working, the blocks need to fix their position. After this, the wall of the house is laid out completely. The vertical seams between the blocks are filled with a special adhesive mixture. In order for the masonry to be smooth and of high quality, the surface of the block is tapped with a rubber hammer. If the upper plane turns out to be uneven, with minor differences in height, they are corrected by smoothing them with a plane designed for working on aerated concrete. It is mandatory to perform such an operation.

If defects are not eliminated, they can cause cracks to appear on the surface of the walls of the house. Almost all rows of masonry require an additional block. It is performed using a special hacksaw, the teeth of which are soldered with hard alloy plates. You should not use a regular hacksaw for wood, as it will quickly become unusable.

The next rows are placed on glue intended for these purposes. They purchase it in specialized stores and prepare it taking into account the recommendations indicated on the packaging. It is typically sold dry and prepared by adding water to the mixture. The solution is mixed in a container using a mixer or drill with a special attachment.

The finished mixture is applied with a regular notched trowel, which is used for finishing work. Before applying the glue, the blocks themselves should be cleaned of dust. When laying an additional gas silicate block, experts advise applying the adhesive mixture not only to it, but also to the surface of the already laid blocks.

When laying the block on glue, the thickness of the seams is approximately 2-3 cm, in contrast to the use of sand-cement mortar. Some believe that using the latter is most beneficial. However, simple technical and economic calculations show that using glue is most advisable: its consumption is much lower, and laying blocks on it with your own hands is much easier.

Another reason why you should not use cement-sand mortar is the large thickness of the seams between the blocks, which leads to the loss of the main advantage of gas silicate - low thermal conductivity. Being “cold bridges”, thick seams will lead to greater heat loss, and the house will be colder.

Masonry reinforcement

Reinforcement has no effect on the load-bearing capacity of the walls of a house built with your own hands from gas silicate blocks. It only needs to be done if the walls of the house will subsequently be plastered. If you plan to decorate the outside of the house, for example, with siding, and the inside with plasterboard, then reinforcement is not necessary. It is enough to make reinforcing belts under the rafters and in the ceilings.

At the level of the first row of masonry and approximately every 3-4 rows, reinforcement is laid. It also strengthens window and door openings and the rows on which the lintels rest. The fittings can be replaced special frames, which are strips of galvanized metal connected to each other by jumpers made of thin wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm.

Reinforcement of window and door blocks

This work can be done various methods. Usually they use two methods. In the first case, with openings less than one and a half meters, they are covered with corners on which blocks are placed. To avoid a difference in height, “cuts” are made in the blocks using a grinder. To prevent corrosion of the metal corners, it is recommended to cover them with a protective layer of paint. For some time, the openings need to be equipped with spacers made of wooden blocks.

Scheme of fastening the rafter system to the external walls of the building using gas silicate blocks: 1 - gas silicate block; 2 - U-shaped formwork block; 3 — fiberglass reinforcement; 4 - threaded rod; 5 — anchor for fixing the binding wire; 6 - mauerlat beam; 7 — fastening corner reinforced with a stiffening rib; 8 - rafters; 9 - vapor barrier film; 10 - gypsum fiber sheet GVLV, mounted in two layers; 11 - cement-sand tiles; 12 - step-by-step sheathing; 13 — hydro-windproof membrane; 14 — counter beam; 15 - filly - timber 30*100mm; 16 - facing brick; 17 - J-profile; 18 - board for filing the eaves overhang; 19 — board of the cornice box; 20 — plastic lining of the eaves overhang; 21 — plastic cladding of the frontal plate; 22 - gutter drainage system; 23 — cornice strip; 24 — overhang aero element; 25 - environmentally friendly roof insulation.

If the width of the opening is more than one and a half meters or there is a slab above it with a width less than the width of the opening, a reinforced concrete monolithic lintel is made. The formwork for it is usually made of plywood or boards. The surface on which the block rests should not be less than 25 cm. This applies to both the first and second methods.

To make a reinforcement frame, it will be quite enough to connect several metal rods with a small diameter, about 12 mm. Formwork should be removed after completion of wall laying, no earlier than 20 days after pouring concrete.

Floors and trusses

In order for the load to be distributed evenly, it is necessary to make a reinforcing “belt” with a thickness of at least 10 cm. First, you need to make formwork from plywood or boards and fill it with concrete. As a reinforcing element, you can use a pair of metal rods of small diameter and place them in the thickness of the concrete. Since concrete has high thermal conductivity, if the wall is not insulated, it will freeze. To avoid this unpleasant phenomenon, before pouring concrete, external wall The formwork is laid with a layer of foam plastic, which is plastered during subsequent finishing.

Building a house from gas silicate blocks with your own hands is not so difficult. The main thing is to follow the technological process and follow certain rules using the characteristics of this material.

Every person dreams of his own home in which his family will live. Over time construction technologies have stepped far forward, so there is no need to limit ourselves to materials such as brick and wood. Today, there are new materials for construction, one of which is aerated concrete. A house made of such material will serve you for many years without losing its original characteristics during operation. After reading this article, you will learn how to build a house from an aerated block with your own hands.

Advantage of aerated block

Aerated concrete is an excellent alternative to brick, as it is distinguished by its good thermal insulation properties, reliability, strength and durability. This material has already won the respect of most builders and developers, as it has many advantages. What are they?

It is for these characteristics that gas blocks are gaining more and more popularity:

1. Aerated concrete has low thermal conductivity, so buildings made from it have much better thermal properties than houses made from brick, concrete or wood.
2. The porous structure of aerated concrete gives the walls high air and vapor permeability. Houses built from aerated blocks have constant regulation of air humidity and air circulation, which creates a good microclimate, the same as in natural wooden houses.
3. Aerated blocks are manufactured to exact dimensions with minimal tolerances and smooth surface, so when laying walls you can use special glue, which will speed up the construction process and prevent the formation of cold bridges during operation. The process is also accelerated due to the large block sizes.
4. Aerated concrete is fire-resistant and environmentally friendly material.
5. The material has a porous structure, due to which the weight of the blocks and, accordingly, the load on the foundation is not the same as that of others building materials. This allows you to reduce the cost of building a foundation.
6. Due to its high strength, aerated concrete does not break, does not crumble and retains its original appearance.
7. According to many experts, a building made of aerated concrete can last more than 30 years.
8. Aerated concrete has a high absorbent surface, which allows it to adhere well to plaster and other materials.

Such advantages allow you to use the material to build your own home.

Due to its porous structure, aerated concrete easily accumulates moisture and can store it for a long time, and this will lead to freezing of the walls and the formation of mold on them. Therefore, during operation and during further operation, the material should be protected from external factors.

What you need to know before construction

If this is your first time building your home, you need to know that the first thing you need to do is take care of the paperwork. After all, no one will just let you build a house on a plot of land. You must first obtain a building permit to be approved by the authorities in your area. Therefore, you need to prepare the necessary documents, including a plan for the future construction.

Not everyone can make house drawings, because this requires special education. Therefore, you can turn to specialists who, for a certain amount of money, will be able to transfer your dream home to paper. Another option is to surf the Internet in search of a house project. In this case, be careful, because you don’t know who made them and whether they were done correctly.

Such a plan must have:

• foundation;
• floors with cuts;
• roof truss structure and calculation of the roof surface;
• door and window openings.

You need to decide in advance on the design of the building. Aerated concrete can be cut, so you can make various arches, columns and beautiful openings. There are many options, the design can be different, depending on your desire.

Another important point before starting construction, purchase materials. To avoid additional financial costs, you need to buy as many blocks as needed. But how to calculate gas blocks for a house in such a way as to avoid shortage and excess of material? Here you need to take into account the size of the house itself and the aerated concrete blocks. The first step is to find out the area of ​​the walls.

All dimensions must be indicated in the house plan. For example, one wall is 12 m long, and the other is 10 m long. There will be two such walls. All of them need to be added:

12+12+10+10=44 m

It turns out that along the perimeter we have a length of 44 m. But the house also has a height, so it needs to be multiplied by the perimeter. Suppose the height of the house is 4 m. Then it turns out:

44×4=176 m 2

In total, the wall area of ​​your house is 176 m2. Based on this data, you need to calculate the number of blocks that are sold by cubic meters. To do this, the thickness of the block (0.3) must be multiplied by the area:

176×0.3=52.8 m 3

So, to lay out the outer box of the house, you will need 53 m 3 of gas blocks. For interior walls the calculation is the same. Please note that it is not advisable to take material close to each other; it is better to add 10% on top so that you have enough blocks during construction.

During transportation, the blocks must be covered with a hermetic film so that moisture does not destroy the material during transportation. Moreover, aerated blocks need to be strengthened so that after delivery they are not damaged, given the kind of roads there are.

Aerated concrete must be stored in a dry place where it will not accumulate moisture. Cover it under a canopy to prevent precipitation. It is important to provide a level surface on which to lay the blocks. Then the material will be stored correctly without losing its qualities.

How to fasten aerated concrete blocks - mortar or glue?

As mentioned earlier, one of the advantages of a gas block is that it can be fixed either using a regular solution or using a special glue. What material should I choose for the job? It should be borne in mind that each of them has both certain advantages and disadvantages.

There are the following advantages to using glue:

• perfect joints;
• very smooth wall masonry;
• no cold bridges;
• it is simpler and easier to work with.

But it is important to consider that:

• during operation, the glue will release various toxins;
• its price is much higher than that of the solution.

An ordinary solution consists of water, cement and sand. Of the minuses, it should be noted that laying is somewhat more difficult than using glue, since you constantly need to monitor the evenness of the masonry. But it is much easier to correct these irregularities using a solution.

There are no specific rules or laws when choosing. Based on the above, you can determine for yourself which material to use.

Preparatory work

To build a house from aerated concrete, first of all you need to do some preparatory work, without which construction will not begin:

• first of all, you need to provide electricity at the construction site so that there is light and tools can be connected;
• organize a place for storing aerated concrete;
• prepare a place that will serve as a warehouse for consumable construction materials;
• deliver the necessary inventory, tools and equipment to the site;
• bring the material necessary for the work (aerated concrete, cement, sand, crushed stone) for at least a week of work;
• carry out geodetic preparation;
• study the building plan, methods and methods of conducting work and organize the safety of the workplace.

Laying should be done at temperatures from 5 to 25ºC. If the ambient temperature is above 25ºC, then when performing work, the aerated concrete must be constantly moistened with water.

Construction technology

The technology of building houses from aerated concrete blocks began to be used in Europe, where it came to us from. For many years, aerated concrete has been a popular material that has proven itself well due to its properties. For many decades, such houses have stood in most countries of Canada, Asia and Europe.

Many people without construction experience know the technological procedure for performing work in general terms. Let's take a closer look at what needs to be done to build the building:

1. Construction of the foundation. Due to the fact that aerated concrete is a relatively lightweight material, it is not necessary to make a reinforced foundation; it all depends on the number of storeys, the location of groundwater and the type of soil at the construction site. Basically, for a house made of aerated concrete, a strip or monolithic foundation is chosen. Work on its installation can last 3 weeks or more. Please note that the porosity of the material contributes to increased water absorption, so it is necessary to carry out waterproofing work, paying special attention to them.
2. Wall masonry. It is much easier to build walls from aerated block than from brick. Since the blocks are large and even, it can be completed very quickly. The main thing is to choose the masonry and strictly adhere to the scheme. If the house has two floors or more, it is important to strengthen the walls, making the structure reliable and durable. For this, reinforced belts are used, then the perimeter of the house will be additionally strengthened.
3. To lay the walls, use a solution or special glue, which is applied with a special tool or a comb spatula. Thanks to it, you can achieve an even technological layer of millimeters. To level the blocks, use a rubber hammer and tap on top of the block. This will not damage the block and will ensure uniform masonry. It should be noted that aerated concrete walls practically do not shrink after construction. It turns out that to carry out Finishing work can be done immediately, due to which the construction juice will be significantly reduced.
4. Covering a house is an important part of construction. For an aerated concrete house, they can be monolithic, wood, concrete slabs, or combined.
5. Another important stage is the construction of the roof. You immediately need to calculate the roofing surface, purchase material and make a roof truss system, as well as cover it with roofing material.
6. Glazing of finished frame windows. You should choose a double-glazed window to provide sound and thermal insulation.
7. After which you need to carry out interior decoration: pave engineering Communication, such as sewerage, water supply, heating, electricity supply, equip the floor base, build internal partitions, prepare the wall surface for finishing and execute it.
8. Final finishing of the facade. At this stage, the eaves overhangs are hemmed to the roof, and a water drainage system is installed. Well, the walls are finished directly. Thanks to it, you can achieve the following goals: level the surface, hiding unevenness, protect the material from mechanical damage and moisture penetration, give the house a beautiful aesthetic appearance.
9. Final stage - landscape design. You can decorate the area, plant it with landscaping, build a fence and make decorations.

If you adhere to these technologies, your home will last a long time without losing its qualities, it will be cozy and warm, and fungus and mold will not bother you.

So, theoretically you are already prepared, you can move on to practice to learn how to build a house with your own hands.

Start of work - preparing the base for the foundation

The first thing you need to do is mark the site on which the house will be built. This is done for orientation in order to dig a trench under the foundation. To do this you need a rope, a hammer and stakes. Further according to the scheme:

• clear the site for construction: remove debris and obstructing objects; if the site is overgrown with large weeds, they also need to be removed;
• now make the markings. To do this, starting from the drawings, drive stakes into the corners of the building. It should be noted that a strip foundation is erected under each wall, following the contour of the building. This is what you need to do on earth. You will dig a trench using this marking, so everything needs to be done smoothly, respecting the dimensions and width of the foundation;
• After the stakes are driven straight, you need to measure the diagonals. When they match the drawings, feel free to pull the rope between them.

The rope should be pulled tightly so that there is no sagging.

Now you can move on to the next stage - digging a trench. Digging a trench begins with finding the lowest point of the site. It is from this that you need to calculate the depth of the foundation. Please note that the size of the finished pit must be identical to the size of the house based on the project.

For the work, you will need shovels and labor, since doing all the work yourself will not only be difficult, but also take a long time. IN as a last resort, if circumstances permit, you can hire special equipment. The walls of the trench must be made vertical and the bottom level. To check this, use a plumb line while digging as it will be more difficult to correct anything once it's finished. The depth of the foundation depends on the soil and number of storeys of the building. It can be shallow - from 50 to 70 cm for small houses, and buried - from 1 to 2 m.

Be sure to make a foundation cushion at the bottom of the trench. Pour sand or crushed stone there in a layer of 10 to 20 cm. Compact everything well and lay a layer of roofing material on top. This will ensure good waterproofing, preventing the foundation from absorbing moisture.

Installation of formwork and laying of reinforcement

From boards, plywood or others wooden materials you need to collect shields. You can connect the elements together with self-tapping screws or nails. If you live in areas with a harsh climate, raise the formwork 40–50 cm above ground level so that the walls do not freeze under the thick snow. And when the climate is not so harsh, the base can be made even 30 cm. Then stretch the fishing line around the perimeter so that it corresponds to the level of pouring concrete into the foundation.

This stage includes not only the installation of formwork, but also the necessary communications. After all, if you do not do this in advance, holes for sewerage or water supply will need to be made in the finished foundation.

To strengthen the foundation, you need to place it in reinforcing mesh. It will be placed in formwork. To make such a frame, you will need Ø14 mm reinforcement rods and flexible steel wire. The rods need to be tied into a mesh with wire. When making cells, it is not necessary to adhere to certain dimensions. On average, these are cells 20x20 cm in size, equal to the size of the trench.

In order for the concrete to completely cover the reinforcing mesh, it must be installed not flush with the top of the trench, but 5–10 cm lower.

Now everything is ready to pour the concrete.

This stage of work can be divided into several steps:

1. Determining the required volume of concrete. To calculate how much mixture will be used to fill, there is a formula: V=S×L, where:
   V is the required volume of concrete,
   L – foundation length,
   S – cross-sectional area.
   And to find out the area, just multiply the height of the tape by its width. For example, the length of the foundation strip is 44 m, height 1.3 m, and width 0.5 m. To determine the cross-section, multiply the height by the width: S = 1.3 × 0.5 = 0.65 m 2. After which: V = 44 × 0.65 = 28.6 m 3. It turns out that to fill your foundation you will need 28.6 m 3 of concrete solution.
2. Now you need to decide whether to order concrete from a construction company or make it yourself. The easiest way is to order the solution - it will be quick, without extra effort, but the service costs more. If you want to save money, you can make concrete yourself, this process is more labor-intensive. It is better to have a concrete mixer, because mixing such a large volume by hand is unrealistic. To ensure high-quality concrete, strictly adhere to the proportions: 1: 1: 3 - cement, crushed stone, sand. Water must be added until the mixture reaches the required consistency.
3. If you have never poured concrete, you should know that it is wrong to dump all the concrete into the trench. It is important to pour concrete in an even layer of 20–30 cm so that the concrete comes out monolithic. There is no need for haste in this matter, since the foundation is the foundation and support of the house, which allows it to stand for a long time.
4. It is important to expel the air from the concrete by tamping each layer. To do this, use a vibrator. If this is not available, simply compact the concrete with a stick or reinforcement. Continue pouring until you reach the line level. To better compact the concrete, tap the formwork with a mallet from the outside.
5. After finishing the pouring, the surface of the foundation must be leveled using a trowel.

The foundation is poured. The cement will dry in 3–5 days, but it will only be able to reach the desired “condition” and gain strength in a month. To prevent precipitation from falling on the surface and eroding the concrete, the entire surface should be covered with something, you can use plastic film. If you are building in the summer and it is hot outside, the composition needs to be moistened from time to time so that the concrete does not crack. After 10 days you can remove the formwork.

Before you start building walls, you need to carry out waterproofing work. The base can be coated with bitumen and several layers of roofing material can be laid.

After the concrete has dried, you can begin constructing the walls of the building. In this article we will look at the process of laying walls using the tongue and groove method. So, you need to lay out the first row of blocks on the prepared surface. Any builder knows that the first row is the most important, since others will be guided by it. When the first row is not level, the entire building will be crooked.

For work you will need:

• building level;
• rope or cord;
• electric or manual wall chaser;
• rubber mallet;
• brush for removing dust from the groove;
• hacksaw with large teeth;
• Master OK;
• fittings Ø8 or 10 mm;
• trowel or notched trowel;
• planer for aerated concrete.

To lay the first row, experts recommend using cement mortar. Let it dry longer, but you will be able to lay the first row strictly according to the level. The thickness of the solution layer should be at least 1 cm. This is enough to even out differences.

The first step is to prepare the solution. There is a simple recipe for preparation. You will need:

• shovel;
• buckets;
• trough;
• boron sand;
• cement;
• soap solution;
• water.

So, prepare a trough and pour 1 shovel of cement, 3 shovels of sand into it and mix them thoroughly. Pour water into a bucket and add 1 drop to it detergent for dishes. This soapy water will help prevent it from settling to the bottom. cement mixture and it will be easier to mix the solution.

Now add water to the sand and cement mixture. There is no specific measurement, you need to look at the consistency so that the solution is not too liquid and not too thick. Stir the solution with a shovel. It is important to ensure good quality and viscosity so that it adheres well. Since this amount will not be enough, you can make a larger portion. The main thing is to adhere to the proportion 1:3.

After preparation, you can start laying. The technology is simple - you need to start building the wall from the corners. Place corner blocks on both sides of the wall on the mortar layer. Using a mallet and level, align them perfectly evenly. Then stretch the fishing line or cord from one corner to the other. The following blocks will be laid out on it. When the wall is more than 10 m in length, a block is also placed in the middle of the row so that the cord does not sag, since it must be well stretched. After which the first row of blocks is laid along the entire perimeter and partitions. To adjust them, use a rubber mallet to tap the blocks. It is clear that the length of the wall will not always be a multiple of the blocks, so some of them will need to be adjusted to size. This is where you need a hacksaw.

During laying, do not get carried away so as not to block the doorways.

Once the first row is ready, wait 2-3 hours for the solution to set. After it has dried, the surface of the blocks should be treated with a plane to give it roughness, then the next row will lie much smoother. Now, instead of the solution, you can use special glue. It must be applied with a notched trowel. The second and third rows are made according to the same pattern as the first. Only now the rads need to be tied up with the previous one, moving the blocks halfway. The block can be moved at least 8 cm. After which the laying process is repeated.

The glue will dry much faster than the solution, so you don’t have to wait long, the work should be done at a fast pace.

If you are building big house, the walls need to be strengthened. To do this, in every 3rd or 4th row you need to reinforce the masonry. Take a wall chaser and make 2 parallel channels in the blocks. Their width should be 4 cm, and the distance from the edge of the block should be 5–6 cm. Remove dust from them with a brush and install 1–2 reinforcing bars there. Then fill everything with cement mortar or glue. There is no need to wait for it to dry.

Window sills and windows

Where the window opening will be, you need to cut two parallel lines. Their size should be larger size window frame 30 cm, 15 on each side. Clean the grooves from dust with a brush and place Ø8 or 10 mm reinforcement in them and cover everything with the solution. When laying, do not block openings. It's better to do them right away. There is an option to cut them out later, but this is a waste of material and effort.

Installing jumpers

As things move along, you will need to install a lintel over the door and window openings. To do everything right, you need:

1. Place a board over the window.
2. Lay blocks 15 cm thick outside.
3. Inside there are blocks, 10 cm thick.
4. In the center is a block 15 cm thick, sawn in half.
5. Make a frame from Ø12 mm reinforcement.
6. Install the finished structure between the blocks.
7. All that remains is to fill it with concrete.

You can make doorways in the same way, although there are other options for constructing a lintel. It can be made from reinforced concrete, metal corners and filled with concrete, making formwork.

You can buy ready-made jumpers that are easy to install.

Armopoyas

When the masonry of the walls comes to an end, the last row needs to be strengthened by organizing an armored belt. Thanks to it, the integrity of the structure can be ensured. To fill the armored belt, formwork must be formed from 10 cm thick blocks around the perimeter of all walls, laying them parallel to each other. You need to lay reinforcement into the resulting groove. Then prepare the concrete and pour everything around the perimeter.

To simplify the task of installing the Mauerlat for the roof, threaded metal studs can be inserted into the armored belt. They can be welded to the fittings. It is important to adhere to the exact dimensions so that they rise at the same level. Having done this, it will be much easier to install the Mauerlat.

During construction multi-storey building, you need to make a ceiling separating the floors. It can be made from wood, metal, concrete and reinforced concrete slabs. The ceiling must be supported by an armored belt. If the walls of the house are separated from each other by less than 6 meters, you can use aerated concrete slabs, which have the same properties as aerated block walls. The slabs are installed on a reinforced belt, the joints between the slabs are filled with mortar. The ends of the slabs from the outside must be covered with ax blocks.

It is clear that you yourself concrete plates you won’t be able to lift it, so for the job you will need heavy equipment - namely a crane that will lift the slabs to the required height. You need to guide the slab to position it correctly.

Another option for covering is to use wooden beams. Their height can be 150–300 mm, and their width – 100–250. Their ends need to be cut at an angle of 60–80˚, treated with an antiseptic and tarred. After which these ends are wrapped in roofing material and placed in niches to a depth of 150 mm. In this case, the gap between the beam and the wall remains 30–50 mm. They need to be installed in increments of 600–1500 mm. Then the sheathing is made and the flooring is laid.

There are different types of such coverings:

• basement - the ceiling between the basement and the first floor;
• interfloor – separating floors;
• attic - floors between the floor and the attic;
• attic – separates the floor of the house from the attic.

Before making a roof, you need to make an attic or mansard floor, depending on the type of roof.

Roofing device

The last stage of building a house box is building the roof. First of all, you need to decide what kind of roof to make, since they are made into the following types:

• pitched roof;

You choose what kind of roof you want to build yourself. The main thing that needs to be done for any type of roof is to carry out waterproofing, thermal insulation and vapor barrier work.

If it costs mansard roof, then you definitely need to take care of sound insulation.

Consider the device of a common gable roof. So, on the prepared metal studs along the perimeter you need to install a mauerlat - a beam that will serve as a support for the rafters. At this stage, you need to lay 1 or 2 layers of roofing material under the timber for waterproofing. Now you need to attach rafters with a cross section of 7x15 cm to the Mauerlat. You can attach the rafters to the beam different ways which are shown below.

The upper part of the rafters overlap each other so that the edge of one rafter overlaps the edge of the other. Then they need to be fastened with nails or bolts. To strengthen the structure, parallel rafters are connected to each other using a board.

To distribute the load and strengthen the rafters, you need to fasten them together with a crossbar. These are beams with a cross section of 5x15 cm that need to be nailed to the rafters. They need to be secured slightly above the middle of the roof. And in order to give additional strength to the roof and avoid sagging of the rafter system, you additionally need to install vertical posts.

After this, you need to secure a layer of waterproofing on top of the rafters. Insulation is fixed under the waterproofing, mineral wool or polystyrene foam. And at the end you need to lay a vapor barrier, attaching it with slats to the rafters. All that remains is to make the sheathing, gable and lay the roofing material.

To date roofing materials great variety, slate is already a thing of the past. Now your roof can be not only reliable, but also beautiful. As a material you can choose:

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  Watch an animated video that shows how to build a house from aerated concrete:

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Modern materials make it possible to build a small building in a short time. Therefore, foam concrete and gas silicate are very popular among private developers. They make durable buildings, the low weight of which allows for significant savings on the foundation: such buildings do not require a solid foundation.

Construction is economically beneficial for the reason that the building stones themselves are much cheaper than bricks.

Private houses made of aerated concrete have gained great popularity due to the quick construction time and light weight, which makes it possible to do without a solid foundation, which means the cost of construction is reduced.

Description of material

Gas silicate is a type of foam concrete. The production technology involves placing quartz sand, cement, water, lime and aluminum powder into the autoclave. The latter is a gas-forming component and determines the unique properties of gas silicate. The volume of the raw mixture in the autoclave increases several times under the influence of high temperatures. After laying out and hardening, building blocks are formed from the finished mass, from which houses can be quickly built.

Advantages of gas silicate

To protect the walls from getting wet, 2 layers of roofing material must be laid on the foundation where they rest on the plinth. Walls begin to be laid from the corners.

• construction made from it has low thermal conductivity;
• It is lightweight, making it easy to install with your own hands and can significantly speed up the pace of construction;
• fireproof, as it does not burn, but melts slowly;
• environmentally friendly;
• excellent vapor permeability. do not retain vapors indoors and do not accumulate moisture;
• ease of processing the block: it is easy to cut, you can easily hammer a nail into it and screw in a self-tapping screw;
• building stones have good sound insulation properties: thanks to the porous structure of aerated concrete, they are 10 times higher than those of brick.

Disadvantages of blocks

• high hygroscopicity of gas silicate blocks. These stones are capable of actively absorbing moisture from the air, so the construction of buildings from aerated concrete blocks is not recommended in regions with a maritime climate. High-quality waterproofing should protect the walls from moisture, but even in this case the possibility of premature destruction of the material is high;
• low frost resistance. According to the manufacturers of the material, adherence to manufacturing technology provides the stone with the ability to withstand up to 25 cycles, thanks to which it is possible to build warm houses. However, due to the relative cheapness of the equipment for manufacturing, these materials are often produced in garage conditions, which is called “on the knee”. The technological process is often disrupted and the cheapest components are used. All this leads to low quality aerated concrete blocks.

Material characteristics

• The density of the material varies by brand from 500 to 800;
• According to compressive strength they are divided into classes: 2.5; 3.5; 5;
• when choosing blocks according to the frost resistance parameter, you should focus on the following: for external walls it should be at least F25, for internal walls - F 15;
• standard size of aerated concrete blocks: 20/30/60 cm. But these stones can be from 30 to 60 cm long, from 9 to 30 cm wide and from 19.5 to 30 cm thick. Many manufacturers produce blocks of different sizes, from which you can build low-rise buildings.

Binders

Apply glue to the blocks using a carriage whose width corresponds to the width of the masonry, a notched trowel or a ladle with a notched edge.

You can use the usual construction cement-sand mortar. It is good because it allows you to even out imperfections in the shape of stones, if necessary. When working with this masonry mixture, the stones need abundant wetting, since gas silicate actively absorbs water from the cement-sand mixture, and it does not have time to gain the strength it needs. The solution is prepared based on proportions 1:3 or 1:4, where 1 is part of cement, the remaining numbers indicate the number of parts of sand. Water is added in small portions until a creamy consistency is obtained.

Special adhesive mixtures are produced for this purpose. They are good because they allow you to build walls with a masonry joint no more than 3 mm thick. The recommended width is 2 mm. The adhesive contains cement-sand mixtures, mineralizing and plasticizing additives and other binding components. The following mixtures have been time-tested and have good characteristics: “MasterOk”, “Zabudova”, products of the Pobedit company (“Egida G 31” and “Pobedit TM 17”), “KrepsKGB”, “EK KEMILAX”.

Adhesive compositions are convenient for laying blocks with your own hands; the seam hardens within 24-28 hours and forms a monolith with the building stone. The consumption of mixtures for laying 1m3 of aerated concrete blocks is no more than 25-27 kg. A distinctive feature of the adhesive joint is its ability to reduce heat transfer, due to which the possibility of the appearance of “cold bridges” in the masonry is eliminated and it is possible to build airtight houses. Many formulations are produced with antifreeze additives, which allows work to be carried out at low temperatures.

Construction tools

• To process blocks with your own hands (cutting, leveling) you will need a hacksaw
• Using a band saw or circular saw will ensure a straight line and precise cutting (the circular saw must be equipped with a ruler to control the cut);
• houses need to be built from material of the correct geometric shape, so a plane is used to cut off irregularities;
• in the blocks you will need to make grooves for electrical wires or reinforcing rods (a wall chaser is used for this);
• for marking you need a cord, tape measure, marker;
• it is impossible to build efficiently without using a level;
• the block is adjusted using a rubber mallet;
• a drill will be needed to create holes for sockets, communication pipes, etc.;
• to apply glue, you can use special carriages or a notched trowel;
• To grout and sand walls made of aerated concrete blocks with your own hands, you will need a grater and sanding mesh;
• a trowel or trowel is used for laying mortar;
• for puttying you need to buy a rubber spatula of a suitable size.

Masonry reinforcement

Using a mortar cutter, grooves are cut for laying reinforcement, glue for laying blocks is poured into them, and then the rods are completely pressed in.

Experts say that reinforcement does not have any effect on the load-bearing capacity of the masonry. Its purpose is to take on compression and bending loads and protect the walls from cracks. It is recommended to reinforce the masonry when one of the wall surfaces is planned to be plastered. This will eliminate the possibility of cracks appearing.

If it is decided to make protective cladding on the outside of the building (for example, with siding), and install gypsum board from the inside, then there is no need to reinforce the masonry. It will be enough to construct reinforcing belts from reinforcement at the floor levels and in front of the installation of the truss. The material used is reinforcement with a cross-section of at least 8 mm or steel strips of galvanized steel 8/1.5 cm. The steel strips are connected to each other with wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm, laid in a “snake”.

To lay it on the surface of the block, grooves are pre-cut. They are filled with glue, into which the rods are pressed so that it completely covers them. This will protect the reinforcement from air and moisture and prevent the development of corrosion.

Installation of openings

• if the masonry is reinforced, then the rods are laid in every 4th row, one row below the formation of window and door openings, lintels, and abutments. The rods must be located on both sides of the openings at least 90 cm;
• openings up to 1.5 m wide can be strengthened with the help of metal corners, for which cuts of the appropriate size are formed in the surface of the aerated concrete block. This will prevent differences in height from occurring. It is recommended to treat metal corners with an anti-corrosion compound or paint before installation. To make the reinforcement easier and better, when preparing the corners between the walls of the opening, it is recommended to install a spacer made of a wooden block of a suitable cross-section;
• if the opening is wider than 1.5 m, then the optimal way to strengthen it is to pour a reinforced concrete lintel. Its height must be at least 20 cm. Before pouring concrete, formwork of the required shape and size is installed, and a reinforcing cage is laid into it. You can use a special U-shaped block that is commercially available. This will greatly simplify the process of forming and strengthening the opening.

Waterproofing device

Before laying the initial row of building stones, it is necessary to carry out cut-off waterproofing. It is performed using water-repellent materials: roofing felt, rubemast, roofing felt, glass insulation, bitumen-based mastics, mixtures based on polymers and cement. It should be noted that the construction of the first row is decisive for further masonry, so its surface must be perfectly leveled in the horizontal plane. To do this, the foundation strip is pre-leveled using cement-sand mortar.

The strips of waterproofing material must be overlapped by at least 10 cm. It is recommended to seal the joints with bitumen or bitumen-based mastics. Particular attention is paid to joints and corners. You can build walls only when high-quality waterproofing is done.

The construction of buildings made of aerated concrete does not provide for external waterproofing and vapor barrier of the walls. This will prevent moisture from escaping from the blocks. Vapor barrier membranes are installed indoors to protect aerated concrete blocks. During the construction of the roof, you should focus on the following sequence (from the inside out): vapor barrier, insulation laid between the rafters, waterproofing material.

Wall masonry technology

You need to build a house from gas silicate stones with your own hands at a height of at least 40 cm from the ground. The foundation strip is leveled by preliminary leveling and applying cement mortar. Markings are made along the tape, according to which the first row of building stones will be lined up. To facilitate the work, beacons are placed in corners, junctions of non-load-bearing walls and partitions, in long spans, to indicate doorways.

The lighthouse blocks are leveled with your own hands using a hydraulic level, and a mooring cord is stretched between them, which determines the height of the first row of masonry, which will greatly facilitate its construction. First, a stone is placed in the highest corner of the foundation strip; using it, the location of the remaining beacons is determined by a level.

The initial row of blocks must be erected by laying out a layer of glue or cement masonry mixture. The glue must be diluted to such a consistency that when applied with a notched trowel, the tubercles that form during this process do not spread. The thickness of the adhesive layer for the first row should be at least 2 cm. This will allow you to adjust the blocks vertically and horizontally using a rubber mallet.

When the construction of the initial row of walls of the house is completed, the cord is transferred to the row above in a similar way, starting with the installation of intermediate and corner blocks. Subsequent rows are laid with an offset of 1/2 stone in one direction or another. This will provide the necessary bonding for the masonry, as well as the strength and stability of the walls. The verticality of the masonry of the house is checked using a plumb line.

Adjustments to the installation of each block must be carried out with a rubber mallet, and do not forget to use a level for leveling.

Walls made of this material cannot be waterproofed with vapor-tight materials.

The facade must be ventilated. That is, its construction should begin with the installation of slats on the external walls. And only after that protective facing material is hung on them.

During the construction of buildings made of aerated concrete, experts recommend not using insulation for the walls: the best option to ensure thermal insulation is to increase their thickness.

External walls cannot be plastered with cement screed. This will prohibit moisture inside the gas silicate, and it will collapse prematurely.

The thickness of the adhesive seam should not exceed 3 mm.

If the interior of a house made of aerated concrete building stones is leveled with gypsum plasters, then soon cracks will appear on them, repeating the pattern of the masonry. It is better to use finishing mixtures like Knauf.

Construction of the house should begin after calculating the required wall thickness.

Boards for the sheathing and rafter system should be treated with a fire-retardant compound.

Any metal parts used in masonry must be coated with an anti-corrosion compound.

Didn't find the answer in the article? More information

Increasingly, our compatriots are building houses from gas silicate blocks. And this is not an accident. After all, this material has many positive qualities. Even those who are not professional masons can work with it. Build warm and reliable home made of gas silicate can be done by almost anyone who is ready to gain such experience.

There is a common belief that due to the low weight of the blocks, you can save on the foundation and make it less powerful. This is a misconception, because Despite its lightness, gas silicate has a low bending strength. Because of this, the walls may crack. For this reason, the foundation must be made strong and solid so that it can ensure the stable geometry of the house.

How to build a house from gas silicate blocks?

Foundation

Reinforced concrete slab, which is suitable for most soils, is ideal solution as the foundation of a gas silicate house. If such a structure looks too expensive, then you can resort to a monolithic strip foundation on a sand bed. In some cases, it is permissible to use a columnar foundation tied with a reinforced concrete belt.

Since gas silicate blocks are hygroscopic, the first row should be located at some distance from the soil.

• You can pour a foundation that rises above ground level by installing appropriate formwork.
• In the case when the foundation is poured at ground level, you can lay out several rows of red ceramic bricks. It is advisable to place the first row of blocks at a height of 50 cm.

So, let's start waterproofing. We roll out 2-3 layers of roofing felt onto the poured foundation or base or use another waterproofing material.

The first row of gas silicate blocks is laid using ordinary cement mortar, and the vertical joints are filled with specialized glue for laying gas silicate. However, there is no need to rush. The quality of the entire wall depends on how well the blocks are laid in this row.

So, the blocks in the corners are laid first. When they are installed, the rope is pulled along the level. The nails to which it is attached can be driven directly into the blocks. After this you can lay out a row.

As you work, you need to make sure that the blocks lie flat and maintain the set level. At the same time, you can level them using a large rubber mallet. It will not chip the surface and will help to fit the unruly block into place.

When the row is laid out, you need to check its surface to ensure there are no unevenness. If any are found, then the existing protrusions and bumps need to be eliminated. If this is not done, the blocks of subsequent rows lying on the bulges may crack.

Often, when completing a row, it is necessary to make an additional block. For this purpose, special saws are used for working on aerated concrete. It is convenient to use hacksaws with large teeth. They have carbide plates on the tops of the teeth. There are also electric saws. Most often they are needed by professional teams working at large facilities. Regular hacksaws can be used, but not for long. They quickly fail.

Subsequent rows

The second and subsequent rows are placed on specialized glue. In this case, the thickness of the seams is 2-3 mm. The adhesive mixture is mixed in containers with a drill with a special attachment. You can also use a hammer drill. Apply the glue using a regular trowel or notched trowel.

Important! Before applying the adhesive mixture, dust must be removed from the surface. There is no need to wet the blocks with water.

When an additional block is laid, glue is applied not only to the already laid blocks, but also to the additional one being laid.

Some people use cement mortar during laying, thinking that it will be cheaper. It is important to carefully calculate everything here:

• So, the cement mortar is laid 10 mm thick. This reduces by an order of magnitude thermal insulation properties gas silicate. The cement joints will serve as heat pumps, pumping heat out of the house.
• Yes, the glue costs twice as much. But it is consumed 5–6 times less. So, we multiply the cost of cement mortar by 2 and divide by 5 (6). What happens? But it turns out that it is still more profitable to use glue. And subsequently this will lead to a reduction in heating costs.
• The advantage of glue is that it allows you to carry out masonry much faster and smoother.

One 25-kilogram bag of adhesive mixture is enough for 20 blocks with dimensions 600x200x300 mm. This translates to 0.7-0.8 m³ of masonry.

When laying blocks, the top row must have a bandage of vertical seams of at least 10 cm.

Wall reinforcement

Reinforcement, by the way, does not affect the load-bearing capacity of the walls being built. What is it for? In order to take on and redistribute the bending loads that appear in the wall during uneven movement of the foundation. The reinforcement prevents the walls from diverging in a horizontal plane and prevents the appearance of cracks.

In normal situations, i.e. unless your house is on top of a constantly moving hill, reinforcement is not done when it is subsequently intended to be done exterior finishing siding, and the interior with plasterboard. In this case, a structure is sufficient monolithic armored belt at the floor level, as well as under the Mauerlat.

When reinforcing, a groove is cut in the upper edge of the gas silicate. It can be done with either a manual or electric wall chaser. 2 8-mm reinforcing rods are placed in the groove. In this case, immediately before laying them, the grooves are filled with glue. This allows the reinforcement to be aligned with the wall and protects the metal from corrosion.

Reinforcement should be laid in the first row of masonry and then every 4 rows. It is imperative to lay the reinforcing bond in the row on which the window and door lintels rest, and also not reaching one row before window openings. Reinforcement is carried out 90 - 100 cm to the side from each edge of the opening.

In addition to reinforcement, it is possible to use special reinforcement cages for thin joints. They are made in the form of paired strips of galvanized steel and have a cross-section of 8x15 mm. The connection is made in the form of a “snake” of one and a half millimeter wire.

There are two common ways to make opening lintels:

• 1. Narrow openings (width up to 1.5 m) are made using metal corners (90x90). The blocks are stacked on them. In this case, the corners must rest on the pier blocks by at least 25 cm. Cuts are made under the corners so that differences in height are not created. To do this, you can use a grinder and diamond blade. The corners must be painted before being placed into the wall to prevent metal corrosion. During work, to avoid distortions in the geometry, spacers made of 50x100 timber are inserted into the openings.
• 2. Wide openings, the length of which exceeds one and a half meters, are made by pouring a monolithic reinforced concrete lintel, which is placed at a height of 200 mm. This approach also has to be used in situations where the floor slab is narrower than the existing opening. The formwork is made from edged boards or plywood. You can also use U-shaped blocks.
• 3. Ready-made gas silicate jumpers made at the factory are used.

The lintels must rest on the walls by at least 25 cm. For the reinforcement frame, it is enough to take 4-6 rods Ø 12-14 mm. After pouring, the formwork along with the supports are removed 20 days after pouring the concrete solution.

The ceiling can be prefabricated reinforced concrete, monolithic, or wooden. The roof is flat or pitched.

A reinforcing belt is made under the Mauerlat. Its thickness must be at least 10 cm. Formwork is made for it from the same shaped boards or existing durable plywood. In this case, you need to monitor the horizontal level of the top edge. Reinforcement is performed using two 12 mm rods. It is important that they are located in the thickness of the concrete and not lie on blocks.

There is one caveat. When there is no external insulation of the walls, the full width of the belt will freeze and draw heat out of the house. Condensation will accumulate here and dampness will appear. To prevent this problem from happening, you need to add polystyrene foam before pouring the solution. Ten is enough. When will they be executed? plastering work, it will close and everything will be fine.

Building your own home is an exciting adventure and an invaluable experience. The one who walks will master the road. It is impossible to talk about all the intricacies of the construction business in one article. However, we hope that the information offered to you will help you build the home of your dreams.