Lilies are very grateful to the various nutrients that are introduced into the soil. Feeding lilies in spring and autumn - necessary condition successful cultivation flowers in the garden. To do this, you can use both organic fertilizers and mineral preparations of industrial production.

How to properly use fertilizers for lilies in spring, summer and autumn, and what features should be considered when fertilizing, you will learn from this article.

Feeding lilies in spring

In order to achieve longer and abundant flowering, it is very important to take care of the spring feeding of this plant. It is she who contributes to the accumulation of forces for the successful flow of budding and flowering processes.

How and what to feed lilies in the spring, you will learn from the sections below.

What is needed for

As you know, during the period of bud emergence, all plants need large amounts of nitrogen, which directly affects the formation of the vegetative mass, which is so necessary not only for flowering, but also for preparing the bulb for winter (Figure 1).

Figure 1. Fertilizing flowers in spring

All these processes require a lot of nutrients, so the spring procedure is extremely important for the full development of the plant, the formation of green mass and strong buds.

Peculiarities

The spring procedure has its own characteristics. So, any substances can only be applied to the warmed earth, so that the root system of the plant has the opportunity to absorb useful substances dissolved in water, otherwise they will simply leave with melt water.

Note: In conditions middle lane For Russia, this time comes in the first days of May. An additional signal will be the length of the sprouts - it should be at least 10 cm, while the leaves begin to deviate to the sides of the stem.

You should know that in some cases, the introduction of nutrients is harmful, because an excess of minerals inhibits the growth of above-ground parts and roots. Remember that any recharge should be carried out as needed.

For example, if the soil in the flower garden is fertile enough, not depleted perennials, then the first years after planting the bulbs, additional application of substances in the spring will not be required. And, on the contrary, in a weakened, poor soil, plants will feel uncomfortable, and there will be less and less flowers every year. In addition, together with organic matter, weed seeds get into the ground, which develop much faster and in the end can simply drown out the young sprouts of an ornamental plant, and constant weeding is very laborious and takes a lot of time.

Rules

These crops are quite demanding on the nutrient medium of the soil throughout the entire vegetative period.

Therefore, it is so important to know the following rules for feeding in the spring(picture 2):

In the first year after planting the bulbs, organic matter is introduced (manure, humus). You should know that humus is applied to the soil before planting, and manure is used to prepare slurry (half a liter of manure per bucket of water), which is watered with seedlings.
In the second and third years after landing plants are nourished with complex mineral preparations, consisting of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in a ratio of 1:2:2.
In the second year of life in addition to mineral fertilizer, it is also recommended to apply ammonium nitrate at the rate of 30 g per 1 sq.m. This substance is applied three times during the entire growing season (after germination, during budding, at the flowering stage).

Figure 2. The main types of fertilizers for crops

Also, in the 3rd year of growth, fertilizer is applied, consisting of superphosphate (20 g per 1 sq.m.), ammonium nitrate (50 g per 1 sq.m.) and potassium salt (25 g per 1 sq.m.). This procedure must be carried out three times in accordance with the stages of culture growth.

How to fertilize a lily in spring

Top dressing in the spring for flowering in the future differs from the rest in the increased amount of nitrogen introduced. The sources of this substance can be both organic and mineral compounds.

Among the organic ones, you can use a fermented (not fresh) solution of mullein, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Wood ash diluted in water (a glass of ash in a bucket of water) has a good effect on growth. It is applied once during watering, or is regularly added in small portions throughout the spring.

Lily fertilizer in summer

Summer is the time for mass flowering of ornamental plants. Therefore, it is so important during this period to support their strength with nutrients. In addition, summer top dressing increases the resistance of plants to various diseases.

Peculiarities

Most often, the summer procedure is carried out using wood ash. Provided it is applied correctly and regularly, crops will delight you with abundant, bright and long flowering, while remaining healthy (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Summer fertilization

At the stage of bud formation, ammonium nitrate is fertilized and the vegetative parts of the plant are treated with a special solution from all kinds of pests. In the middle of summer, it is recommended to add superphosphate with potassium magnesia to the soil, which strengthen the stems of the plant and give the flowers brighter shades.

You should know that during flowering it is more rational to use liquid fertilizers, since granular ones dissolve for a very long time, and therefore do not have the desired effect. Top dressing with liquid fertilizers occurs after abundant watering.

You will find more information about summer fertilizer in the video.

Rules

To achieve abundant and long flowering, it is necessary to provide the plant with various nutrients.

Feeding is carried out in accordance with certain rules:

At the stage of bud formation phosphorus-nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the soil in the form of nitrophos or azophos (1 tablespoon of the substance per bucket of water).
In the flowering phase it is recommended to use complex additives containing nitrogen. Therefore, you can use azofoska, amofoska or nitroammofoska at the rate of 1.5 tbsp. to a bucket of water.
Together with complex preparations wood ash is also added, which contributes to lush flowering. At the same time, the dosage is observed: 100 g of ash per 1 sq.m. soil.

Having decided how to fertilize the plants in spring and summer, you should prepare in advance for the fall in order to properly fertilize and help the plants prepare for the winter.

Feeding lilies in autumn

Autumn top dressing is aimed at preparing the bulbs for the winter and accumulating in them useful substances, because the most beautiful varieties can not endure severe frosts and die. Therefore, it is so important to carry out an autumn recharge immediately after the end of flowering.

What is needed for

After the end of flowering, intensive processes begin to occur in the bulb, aimed at preparing the plant for winter (Figure 4).

Figure 4. Fertilizing in autumn

Phosphorus-potassium top dressing will be a significant help in the process of accumulating nutrients, because the lily will not only become more resistant to winter cold, but also increase its level of resistance to various diseases.

Peculiarities

Top dressing in the fall has some features. For example, for better ripening of the bulbs, it is recommended to add superphosphate and potassium sulfate to the soil immediately after the end of flowering, and spray the above-ground parts of the plant during prolonged autumn rains. Bordeaux mixture to prevent the development of diseases.

Leaf humus or rotted compost introduced into the flower bed will not only enrich the soil with nutrients and protect against frost, but will also serve as a wonderful mulch in the spring.

From the video you will learn what kind of care and fertilizer lilies need in the fall.

Rules

To provide the plant with useful nutrients in the winter, autumn feeding is carried out according to the following rules:

Application of nitrogen fertilizers in autumn period absolutely contraindicated.
The use of minerals is carried out no later than the first days of September, otherwise the growth of young shoots can be provoked.
For autumn top dressing, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are used.
Main autumn procedure carried out after the end of flowering with the help of complex fertilizer (1 tsp each of superphosphate and potassium salt per 5 l hot water). The substance is applied in a warm form at the rate of 0.5 liters of solution per bush.

Subsequent top dressing consists in adding a layer of organic mulch to the beds, which not only nourishes the soil, but also protects the bulbs from frost.

Each grower has his own opinion about additional nutrition for lilies in spring period. These opinions are completely opposite. You just need to figure out whether fertilizers for lilies are really so important in the spring and, if so, which ones.

Why do you need spring dressing?

The growth of green mass in the spring and summer months, the formation of buds and flowering, and the preparation of the plant for a new flowering period depend on the full development of the lily bulb. All this is possible only with proper nutrition of the underground part of the culture. Healthy and strong root part flowering plant will only be with the timely introduction of dressings.

The first time fertilizers are recommended to be applied in warm earth, the temperature of which is not less than 6-7 degrees. Depending on the climatic conditions of a certain area, this may be in early April or in the first week of May. At this time, the lilies should already germinate to about 10 cm in height. More early feeding it is useless to apply, because the bulbs are not yet ready for feeding and the melt water will most likely carry away all the fertilizers with them.

The need for fertilizer in the spring is directly related to the composition of the soil in the flower beds. Fertile soil, a plot with a large amount of humus in the first 2-3 years after planting lilies does not need top dressing. But on the poor land plot these flowering crops will look weak without fertilizer. Without additional nutritional support, the plant will lose its decorative effect and will need to be transplanted to a new place in the coming years.

Spring dressings also have their drawbacks. If the soil is oversaturated with minerals, then the growth and development of the entire plant (aboveground and underground parts) will noticeably lag behind. An excess of fertilizer depresses lilies. But the weeds at this time begin to grow actively, as they take all the food for themselves. They are much higher than the young seedlings of flowers, and all the light goes to a greater extent to weeds. Lilies require even more extra attention and care time, especially weeding.

For the full growth and development of lilies throughout the summer period, the following options for spring top dressing are recommended:

1 tbsp ammonium nitrate for each square meter flower area;
Complex fertilizer - nitroammophoska;
For 10 liters of water - 1 liter of fermented mullein solution;
For 10 liters of water - 1 cup of wood ash, pre-sifted (used periodically in small volumes throughout the spring season or once with irrigation water);
Compost humus or rotted manure;
Biohumus obtained as a result of the activity and life processes of earthworms;

Experienced growers and gardeners do not recommend using fresh manure or mullein as fertilizer for lilies. Such top dressing contributes to the emergence of various infectious or fungal diseases. In addition, aggressive microflora this fertilizer can cause rapid rotting of the bulbs and the death of the entire plant even before the start of the flowering period.

Feeding lilies before flowering (video)

If roses are the queens of the garden, then lilies are duchesses. But to get abundant flowering, you can not do without top dressing.

✔ Fertilizer lilies when planting

If the soil in which the bulbs are to be planted is rested, fertile, humus, then preplant fertilizer can be omitted. In other cases, the soil will have to be fertilized. Which fertilizer to choose depends on the preferences of the owner of the garden.

Lilies love organics (the exception is fresh manure, which should never be brought in). The application rate of organic fertilizers is standard: 7-8 kg per 1 sq. m. At the same time, you can add double superphosphate- 100 g per 1 sq. m. If there is wood ash, this is a great success, because lilies adore it, responding to the addition of ash to the ground with large and bright flowers, increased winter hardiness and disease resistance. Wood ash is applied at the rate of 100 g per 1 sq. m.

If there is no organic matter, then any mineral fertilizers are applied, including nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (with spring planting) and phosphorus and potassium (if planting is autumn). There are many types of mineral fertilizers. Depending on which of them are at hand, they can be added in the dosage indicated on the package.

✔ Fertilizing lilies in spring

At this time, lilies, like all plants, are in desperate need of nitrogen, without which they will not be able to gain sufficient vegetative mass for high-quality flowering. the first spring top dressing can be carried out even on melting snow. To do this, ammonium nitrate or urea is scattered on the soil surface - 2 tbsp. l. per 1 sq. m. If the site has a slope, and melt water for the most part they run away from him, it is useless to carry out such feeding. In this case, the flowers begin to feed later, when the earth dries out a little. Fermented mullein or the same urea (ammonium nitrate) is suitable, but already in the form of a solution - 1 tbsp. l. on a bucket of water (per 1 sq. m).

✔ Fertilizer lilies in summer

The next top dressing is carried out when the first buds begin to form in the plants. Top dressing with nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizer at this time has a positive effect on the size of the bud and the brightness of the petals. Well suited for this azophos, nitrophos - 1 tbsp. l. to a bucket of water.

Another top dressing is needed at a time when the lilies are already blooming. Its purpose is to prolong flowering by giving the plant a sufficient amount of those substances that it needs. To do this, use complex fertilizers containing amophoska, azophoska, nitroammophoska. They are bred in water at the rate of 1.5 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water.

Any of the summer dressings can be combined with the introduction of a complex of microelements into the soil at a dose indicated by the manufacturer, or wood ash (100 g per 1 sq. M).

✔Fertilizer lilies in autumn

The plants have already faded, it seems that it is not autumn yet, but summer is already running out. At this time, intensive processes are underway in the bulb under the ground, nutrients are stored for the next year. Phosphorus-potassium top dressing will significantly increase the winter hardiness of lily bulbs. For this, superphosphate and potassium magnesia are used. On a bucket of water take 1 tbsp. l. double superphosphate (or 2 simple) and 1.5 tbsp. l. potassium magnesia. Superphosphate does not dissolve well, so the water will first have to be slightly warmed up. Plantings are shed with this solution - 1 bucket per 1 sq. m.

The last operation of the season is also in some way top dressing, it is done already in the late autumn. The place where the onions hid until spring in the already freezing soil should be sprinkled with compost with a layer of 10 cm - this will simultaneously serve as top dressing for the next year and warming for the winter.

Related Articles2.

Planted lilies definitely need shelter. For these purposes, sawdust, dry peat, fallen leaves, shavings are used. Lilies should be covered for the winter only after the soil has slightly frozen, so that mice and other rodents do not find "both a table and a house" under the sawdust. And in the spring, the shelter must be removed in time, even before the sprouts appear.

So that the mice do not annoy the lilies, you can plant a colchicum or daffodils around their beds, a real snowdrop.

On light sandy soils, lily bulbs are planted deeper than on heavy ones. As a rule, undersized lilies are planted at a depth of 10-12 cm (large bulbs) and 7-8 cm (small bulbs); medium tall, respectively, by 12-15 and 8-10 cm; tall - by 15-20 and 10-12 cm (the depth is indicated to the bottom of the bulb).

When the soil warms up and becomes suitable for planting, in the suburbs this is the last decade of April - the beginning of May.

So, the most important thing in the growing process is the refusal to cut the stem, even after the plant has faded and does not look neat enough, you should not perform such actions, because after the removal of the stem and leaves, growth stops, and at the same time development, which worsen aging.

In the spring, covering peat can be left - it will serve as fertilizer and mulch for plants.

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When choosing a place to plant lilies, you need to take into account the height of the plants, the size and shape of the flower, and its color.

I dig up lily bulbs with garden pitchforks, trying not to damage the roots.

On the contrary, they bloom luxuriantly only on acidic soil. For them, the best fertilizer is needles from under old fir trees.

Lilies

Introduction of fresh or slightly decomposed manure.

During the flowering of white (or snow-white) "lilium candidum" (Lilium candidum), collect its petals and use for cooking medicinal tincture, besides well clearing a skin. Fill half of a dark glass jar with petals of blooming flowers, fill them with wine alcohol so that it covers the petals by 2 fingers, close the jar tightly and put it in a dark, cool place for 6 weeks. Pour a little liquid into a small dark jar, dilute it by two-thirds with cold boiled water and use, remembering to shake before use, to wipe your face with a moistened cotton swab. For muscular pains, rub the sore spots with an undiluted tincture of white lily. If you prick or cut your finger and an abscess starts, remove a lily petal from the tincture, apply it to the wound, cover with parchment and bandage it - the next day the abscess will disappear.

In the spring, before the shoots of lilies appear, I apply nitrogen fertilizers to the soil, for example, ammonium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 1 m 2). Or I feed plantings of lilies with organic and mineral fertilizers: a solution of fermented mullein (in no case should fresh mullein be used for feeding lilies) in a ratio (1:10), a solution or granules of nitroammophoska or ammonium nitrate (40-50 g per 10 l of water or per 1 m 2).

The distance between lily bulbs when planting depends on the height and power of the plants. I plant large lilies in 20-25 cm, low ones - at a distance of 10-15 cm from one another. When planting lilies, make grooves or holes 10 cm deeper than it should be for planting (since lilies are usually planted with roots). But some annual lilies may not have roots, which may be due to dry soil. The main thing when buying planting material for garden lilies is the absence of spots and rot on the bulbs - sure signs of disease. Bulb roots should not be dried. When buying in the spring, I try to choose lily bulbs with slightly hatched sprouts for growing. Before planting, I store the bulbs in the refrigerator, on the lowest shelf. When one of the bulbs suddenly decides that it's time already, and begins to grow with might and main, you have to plant it in flower pot, and after frost - transfer to open ground.

Do not be afraid that the stems and leaves look sluggish - they continue to nourish the bulb in sufficient volume so that growth is carried out fully. We also advise you not to touch annual roots - they are also a good source of nutrition. Whereas spruce branches and leaves should be removed from lily plantings as early as possible so as not to damage the sprouts.

Tall lilies are best planted in the background in a flower garden or in separate groups, several of the same variety. Low-growing varieties and types of lilies with no large flowers good on an alpine hill. I shake off the ground from them and carefully examine them. Scales with rusty and brown spots must be removed from the bulbs. After digging, such bulbs are washed under a tap or in two waters, and then they are kept for 20 minutes in a solution of karbofos (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Asian hybrids

- a plant of extraordinary beauty, with a pronounced aroma and magnificent flowers, striking in a variety of colors and shades. It is not difficult to grow lilies on your own. It is only necessary to properly care for them and fertilize the plants in a timely manner. The choice of fertilizers should be taken seriously. Feeding lilies must be done following certain rules. It is necessary to observe the time of feeding and pay attention to the composition of fertilizers.

KakProsto.ru

Rules for planting and caring for lilies. Ornamental plant nursery

Lilies cannot stand fresh manure.

When planting the bulb on the bottom of the planting hole, I pour a mound of washed river sand, place a lily bulb on it, carefully straighten the existing roots, and then fill the hole with the plant with earth. Before planting, the bulbs are washed in running water and etch for 20-30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 l of water) or for 30-40 minutes in a solution of the drug fundazol to prevent fungal diseases of lily bulbs.

However, if you really want to keep the flower bed in good condition, and not in a fading form, then best advice there will be a masking of the withering parts. How to do it? It is enough just to plant a beautiful decorative and tall grass in the foreground, which will hide all the flaws. Or plant batches of annuals, which will also remarkably hide all the errors of yellowed leaves.In plantings of lilies sheltered for the winter, the soil does not freeze for a long time, and therefore their roots continue to grow almost all winter.

Lilies grow normally in bright sun, but they also love partial shade. If the bulbs are clean and with roots, then they are only pickled for 20–30 minutes in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate.

- lilies with the most complaisant character. They are the most unpretentious. They will grow where they are planted and will be content with minimal care.Feeding lilies in the spring

How to avoid it. Reproduction by daughter bulbs (kids). Children are formed in almost all lilies above the bulb, on the underground part of the stem. They are separated from mother plant autumn or in early spring when transplanting or simply after raking the earth from the stem. Separated daughter bulbs are planted on permanent place or for growing in nurseries. Children bloom in 2-4 years.

From it, the winter hardiness of the plant decreases, flowering is weakened. Although manure causes rapid growth of the ground part, the lily bulb suffers from it and may grow unhealthy. You also need to cut off lifeless roots and shorten too long live ones.

Young shoots of garden lilies are afraid of the cold, and therefore, if I planted them in the spring, then I cover them before frost. I use 3 liters for this. plastic bottles with a cut bottom - the shoots feel quite comfortable in them.

Lilies love to eat, and therefore they just need regular top dressing, both during and after flowering. The most successful fertilizer will be complexes containing potassium and phosphorus, but mineral mixtures, on the contrary, should be avoided - they are not suitable for lilies in principle, although it may seem that this is not the case. The fact is that the result of the use of mineral supplements is too short-lived, and as mentioned above, lilies need regular nutrition in large volumes, which will produce a long-term effect. Mineral fertilizers also carry the negative stages of lily development - after using them, the lilies become more tender and painful, the flowering strength will decrease, and wintering can be difficult at all, not to mention increased susceptibility to various infections.

Lily roots are able to grow at very low positive temperatures. In too strong sun, lilies dry up without abundant, but rare watering; as a result, plants grow too low, stunted, fade faster.

After washing and dressing, I dry the lily bulbs in the shade, cut the roots to 5 - 10 cm, and then plant them. All lilies cannot stand fresh manure and begin to get sick with various fungal diseases. In a damp, cool summer, lilies can also get sick from waterlogging. For prevention, all lilies can be treated with a fungicide, such as Hom, Bordeaux mixture.

In early spring, even before the shoots appear, it is recommended to feed and care for lilies using nitrogen fertilizers. Ammonium nitrate is good for these purposes, which has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of lilies. Fertilize the soil with ammonium nitrate at the rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 sq. m. In addition, you can feed the plants with organic or mineral fertilizers. For these purposes, nitroammophoska in granules or a solution of fermented mullein is well suited. organic fertilizer for planting lilies, use ready-made disinfected composts ("PIKSA", "Bogatyr") or leaf humus.

Reproduction by scales. Good results are obtained by the introduction of wood ash (100 g / m 2). Ash can be applied several times per season. Thanks to this, lily flowers become larger, more intensely colored and more resistant to diseases.

Lilies do not tolerate manure, even brought before winter during spring planting. On heavy soils, sand is added to the bottom of the hole, the roots are carefully spread to the sides and covered with fine earth. After planting, the soil is mulched with peat, rotted compost, and rotted sawdust. Mulching contributes to the conservation of moisture in the soil, warming during autumn planting, and in the spring it gives additional nutrition to the plants. If you need to keep the bulbs for several days, they are placed in a cool place, shifting with wet moss, sawdust, sand or just earth.

Most suitable fertilizers in the spring, when the frosts end, and there are no shoots yet, there will be: ammonium nitrate (proportions: 1 tablespoon per 1 sq.m.), such top dressing has a positive effect on plant growth; granulated nitroammophoska and other fertilizers containing nitrogen. In the spring, before the shoots of lilies appear, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the soil.

Sunlight throughout the day for lilies is not necessary, but very desirable in the first half. I plant bulbs in pre-prepared land.

Lily location and care

Water only under the root. You can not water the plants on the leaves. The only exception is oriental lilies. But they can also be watered from a watering can and only with settled and heated water, for example, from a barrel. Feeding lilies in summer

3. You can separate the scales from the bulbs at any time of the year, including winter, if the bulbs are dug up in advance and stored in

Once again about feeding: When choosing a place for planting lilies, you need to consider that they do not tolerate stagnant water.

I plant lilies every three years Ammonium nitrate should also be used with the appearance of the first buds. good deed will feed the lilies after flowering with organic fertilizers, but in no case use manure or compost - these options can cause burns and the production of fungi, as a result of which the plant may slow down development or even die.

For example, ammonium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 1 m 2). Or they feed plantings of lilies with organic and mineral fertilizers: a solution of fermented mullein (in no case should fresh mullein be used for feeding lilies) in a ratio (1:10), a solution or granules of nitroammophoska or ammonium nitrate (40-50 g per 10 l of water or per 1 m 2). Large morning drops of moisture on the leaves are especially dangerous for lilies: they work like lenses. As a result, the leaves get a sunburn, which, in wet weather, then turns into a fungal disease. gray rot(Botrytis).

At the same time, in dry weather, on the eve of planting, it is necessary to shed the earth to the desired depth. If the soil is not very dry, you can irrigate the bulbs in the planting groove - this saves time and effort; much less irrigation water will be needed. As a rule, we purchase seeds and bulbs in advance.

Lily feeding wood ash is a fairly common practice experienced gardeners. During the summer period, such top dressing is recommended to be done 4-5 times. Ash has a positive effect on the growth of lilies, resulting in larger flowers. If the feeding of lilies in the summer is carried out in accordance with all the rules, then the plant will bloom magnificently, the flowers will delight with bright and saturated shades. In addition, proper fertilizer will be a good prevention of diseases. Lilies will grow strong and resistant to almost all diseases. Lack of watering or improper watering.

Lily's winter shelter

cool place. In order for the lilies to bloom well, they are fed three times during the season.

Varieties of white and light colors require well-lit and protected from light places, and bright and dark-colored ones tolerate partial shade well. processing planting material weak solution of potassium permanganate. I prepare pits, preferably planted in sunny places, it can be a little thickened, I put pebbles on the bottom so that excess water does not stagnate and the bulbs do not rot, I cover the pebbles with soil mixed with needles, lilies like this soil. Bulbs do not get sick and grow large. I dug 10 cm holes. I specially planted them a little deeper to protect them from return frosts in the spring. Without cutting the roots of the bulbs, I planted them in the holes. After planting, I covered the holes with peat and watered them. In the summer I regularly watered my lilies, and only after flowering I reduced the watering.

Solutions equipped with useful trace elements are best suited for fertilizing lilies, it is especially important to use them after the flowering period, this will contribute to better ripening of the bulbs, and most importantly, the emergence of buds, which means more lush bloom in the next season. Good results are obtained by adding wood ash (100 g / m 2).

Although the roots of lilies reach a depth of two meters, during the dry season they must be watered under the root. All lilies need loose, nutritious, permeable soil for good growth.

Lily fertilizer

If lily bulbs are bought in early spring, then before planting they are stored in the lower compartment of the refrigerator (at a temperature slightly above 0 degrees) in a plastic bag with holes filled with sphagnum or dry high-moor peat. As a rule, under such storage conditions, lily bulbs do not form a large sprout (more than 5 cm). They can be planted in a film greenhouse, in pots or plastic bottles, protecting them from frost. Plants can be transplanted into open ground together with a clod of earth only after the end of spring frosts.During the formation of buds, it is recommended to feed the lilies again with ammonium nitrate. In addition, it is worth carefully treating all the vegetative parts of the plant with special formulations from pests. This will allow the lilies to grow healthier.

Despite the intolerance of excess moisture by most lilies, prolonged drought for these flowers is also detrimental, and in dry weather, lilies need to be watered.Depending on the time of year, the scales after pre-training planted in beds, in boxes, in greenhouses or stored like bulbs.

The first top dressing is needed in the spring during the period when the stems begin to grow: 30 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of water per 1 sq. m. Second - full mineral fertilizer during the budding period: 30 - 50 g of nitrophoska per 10 liters of water per 1 sq. m. After flowering, for better ripening of the bulbs, a third top dressing is carried out: 30 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of superphosphate per 10 liters of water per 1 sq. m. Care for lilies consists in regular weeding, loosening the soil, fertilizing and watering. It is very important to maintain an optimal water regime of the soil. Avoid over-watering and over-planting.

Lily planting sites should not be flooded with water in spring and autumn. By the way, experienced gardeners recommend feeding lilies with wood ash during the summer at least four or even five times. Ash has a productive effect on the size of the buds and their flowering, and also increases the immunity of the plant. During the flowering period, treat plants from infections and pests, usually this is a time of exacerbations for lilies. In the middle of summer, it is important to add double doses of superphosphate and potassium magnesia to the substrate to strengthen the stems.

Ash can be applied several times per season. Due to this, lily flowers become larger, more intensely colored and more resistant to diseases. It is undesirable to wet lily leaves when watering.

Light loams, fertilized sandy loamy soils, cultivated garden lands are well suited. On heavy, damp, uncultivated soils, lily bulbs rot due to the accumulation of moisture between the scales, which can lead to their death. Such soils must first be made looser by adding sand, perlite or other baking powder. Do not use fresh manure when growing lilies. An excess of organic fertilizer causes a strong growth of the vegetative part to the detriment of the formation of healthy bulbs; winter hardiness of plants, resistance to diseases decreases; flowering is weakened. If the bulb of lilies purchased in spring has too large a sprout, then it should be planted obliquely.

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How to care for lilies in spring and summer

The next stage of feeding lilies should be done in July. During this period, it is necessary to add a substrate of double superphosphate and potassium magnesia to the ground. These fertilizers help strengthen the stems of the plant and make the flowers more vibrant. This is especially noticeable on varieties that bloom with pink or light red flowers. It is important to remember that top dressing of lilies during flowering should be carried out using liquid fertilizer. Granular ones will not have enough time to dissolve in the soil and give the desired effect. It is better to feed the plants immediately after abundant watering. How to avoid it.

Caring for faded lilies

The scales separated from the bulb are kept for 15 minutes. in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, slightly dried and placed in plastic bags or dishes with moistened sawdust, peat at a temperature of +20 +22 0C. After 5-6 weeks, bulbs with roots form on the scales. In the spring they are planted in the ground. Lilies need disease prevention. For this, the plants need to be sprayed with one percent Bordeaux liquid several times a year, preferably at the beginning or end of July. When watering lilies, you need to ensure that drops of water do not fall on the leaves of the plant (which can cause burns and the development of diseases) - try to direct a stream of water under the root of the plant.

Feeding lilies after flowering

Lilies should be planted in such a way that garden paths located on the south side - then the flowers will look in their direction. When a month passes after flowering, the plant will be ready for transplantation, it is not recommended to rush in this matter, since the lily bulbs need to mature enough and stock up on nutrients. Transplanting too early can affect the plant - at best, it will be difficult for it to take root, at worst, the plant may die. As soon as lily sprouts appear, it is recommended to shed the soil with Bordeaux liquid or Lazurin. Planting lilies I mulch so that soil moisture is retained as long as possible. Cooked lily bulbs are planted immediately, without drying them, like tulips during storage, since the juicy scales of lily bulbs do not have a protective shell.

Lily transplant after flowering

The main planting of lilies is early autumn.

Lily blossom is the most mesmerizing sight. To admire this beauty in the summer, one must not only plant them, weed them, loosen them and water them. You need to know the "appetites" of your charmers. Watering is carried out plentifully, but infrequently. Water only under the root: water that has fallen on the leaves can provoke the development of diseases.

Lily care (video)

Lilies are watered under the root and only in the morning or afternoon. The main planting of lilies is early autumn.

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How to plant lilies and care for them.

In 9 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. l. drinking soda, ammonia and copper sulphate, previously dissolved in 1 l warm water (blue vitriol poured last in a thin stream with continuous stirring).

It is better not to loosen the soil around the lilies at all, given that the soil with plantings of lilies is mulched. This warning is due to the fact that it is undesirable to disturb the superficially located supra-bulbous roots of lilies and babies on the stems, and in order not to accidentally break the stem itself. In addition, the roots remain in the bulbs. If it becomes necessary to store the bulbs for some time, then I put them in boxes or bags, shifting them with wet peat, fresh coniferous sawdust or moss.

In the first decade of August, they begin to dig, divide and transplant four- and five-year-old lilies. This is due to the weakening of their flowering due to the depletion of the soil and the lack of development area for the propagated bulbs. Sometimes lilies are transplanted more often - once every 2-3 years. More frequent digging of lilies is usually associated with the fact that they suffer from a pest - thrips, which eats the scales of the bulbs. In addition, in case of severe damage to lilies by gray rot, it is advisable to change the site of their planting.

The first to bloom in the garden is the candidum lily, the most snow-white and fragrant. Next, the most unpretentious "Asians", or Asian hybrids, start their round dance. Then comes the perfume cannonade of tubular and Oriental beauties. In order for the ball of beauties to take place, even in the spring it is necessary to show attention and care to each plant.

Bulbous varieties are most often found among Asian hybrids.

When the lilies have buds, repeat feeding with ammonium nitrate. The vegetative part of plants is treated from pests and diseases, since healthy shoots and leaves determine full flowering next year. For the third time (in July, not later), double superphosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) and potassium magnesia (1.5 tablespoons per 10 liters) are added under the lilies. Loosen the soil around the lilies very carefully , and mulching is used to retain moisture in the soil different materials including cut grass. Getting water on the leaves is especially dangerous in the morning, because water droplets can become a kind of lens that collects light and causes a burn. So a fungal disease can develop - botrytis.

Lilies are usually transplanted in early August, preferably in the early days. It is worth starting when the leaves and stem are completely withered. The dead parts should be carefully separated from the plant, and the bulb should be treated with a disinfectant.

When the lilies have buds, repeat feeding with ammonium nitrate. Moderate soil moisture for lilies is necessary throughout the season.

The depth of planting of lily bulbs depends on their type, size and mechanical composition of the soil.

Lily transplant dates can be shifted to mid-late August or even September. As soon as the lilies have emerged from the ground, they must be fed with nitrogen fertilizers. They will help plants quickly get into shape and gain leaf mass. For top dressing, urea or ammonium nitrate is suitable, 30-35 g per 1 sq.m.

Soil overheating.

A number of varieties of lilies have the ability to form small stem bulbs - bulbs in the axils of the leaves. As they mature in August-September, they are collected and planted by analogy with children. Plantings are covered for the winter. Bulbs can also be planted in the spring, then they are kept tied up all winter. plastic bags with peat at tO 1-3OS. Even if the lilies are badly affected by gray rot, they still feed the plants.

In hot weather, waterlogging provokes the development of fungal diseases, including fusarium (onion rot) and bacterial (wet) rot.

After the end of the flowering of the lily, until the moment of its transplantation, 1-1.5 months must pass in order for the bulb to gain strength - to become large, dense, elastic. All factors influence this process: heat, the presence of moisture, as well as nutrition.

If the leaves are still green, then, unfortunately, you need to cut them off completely - there should be a small process, like a stump. When it's time to plant, dry the bulbs well in the shade and treat the bulbs with charcoal or a potassium permanganate solution, then shorten the roots and start planting in the prepared soil. Lilies are best suited for neutral loose soil, clay should be avoided, as clay retains moisture, and excessive dampness is harmful to the lily root system. Planting depends on the type and composition of the soil, if the soil is light, you can plant it deep, but if it is clayey, then vice versa - shallow, undersized varieties we advise planting at a depth of 10-12 cm, and tall ones - at 20 cm. It is necessary to plant lilies at a distance of about 25 cm from each other. It is also important to pay attention to the planting site, light varieties do not like wind and prefer light, while dark colors are excellent feel in the shadows.

The vegetative part of plants is treated from pests and diseases, since healthy shoots and leaves determine full flowering next year. For the third time (in July, not later), double superphosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) and potassium magnesia (1.5 tablespoons per 10 liters) are added under the lilies.

The greatest need for water occurs in the first half of summer, as well as after the flowering of lilies, when the formation of bulbs begins and the accumulation of nutrient reserves for the winter.

Usually the bulb is planted at a depth of three times its diameter. The only exceptions are a few types of lilies.

The terms are determined, first of all, by the condition of the bulbs: after flowering, the lily bulbs are very depleted, lose weight, become loose; the scales become thinner, tie. The next top dressing must be given to lilies before flowering, when buds begin to form. The composition of this top dressing must necessarily include potassium and phosphorus. Suitable complex nitrophoska or kemira, mortar.

Very harmful to lilies, especially in open spaces. Too much heat disrupts the course of biological processes in the bulb.

Common mistakes when growing lilies

Bulbs need food - after all, the roots of lilies continue to work, and the bulb gains nutrients, although worse than with leaves. In cool weather, excess moisture contributes to the development of brown spot

I dig up lily bulbs with a garden pitchfork

As we have already figured out, lilies love full and regular care, a lot of time will have to be spent on various top dressing and disinfection - many insects and rodents are dangerous for these flowers. As a fight against unwanted guests, you can use such means as Medvetoks, Zemlin and others, but rodents are easier to deal with with baits, they are usually well scared off by daffodils - many rodents do not like their smell. Even if lilies are very suffered from gray rot, they still feed the plants.

When cutting flowers, keep as many leaves as possible on the stem.

On light sandy soils, lily bulbs are planted deeper than on heavy ones. After the end of the flowering of the lily, 1–1.5 months should pass before the moment of its transplantation.

Fertilizer 25-30 g must be dissolved in 10 liters of water. If the ground is dry, it is better to shed it with ordinary water, then apply top dressing. If there is ash - scatter around the plants. The color of the lilies will become even brighter and more expressive.

How to avoid it.

Almost all lilies are well suited to neutral or slightly acidic, loose, permeable soil. Every summer, 2-3 times I sprinkle ash on the beds with lilies - it serves as a fertilizer and at the same time kills pathogenic fungi. The lily beetle and its larvae, which eat leaves and buds, are very dangerous for lilies. The beetle is red-orange in color, up to 1 cm long. It is clearly visible on plants, so it can be collected by hand.

being careful not to damage the roots. I shake off the earth from them and carefully examine them. Scales with rusty and brown spots must be removed from the bulbs. After digging, such bulbs are washed under a tap or in two waters, and then they are kept for 20 minutes in a solution of karbofos (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

However, you can save a lot on watering - excessive moisture can harm lilies, especially in extreme heat, provoking fungal diseases, in this case, the infected bulbs will have to be carefully dug up and removed.

Bulbs need food - after all, lily roots keep working, and the bulb is gaining nutrients, although worse than with leaves. Removing leaves (1/3 or more) leads to worse flowering or its absence next year.

As a rule, undersized lilies are planted at a depth of 10-12 cm (large bulbs) and 7-8 cm (small ones); medium tall, respectively, by 12-15 and 8-10 cm; tall - by 15-20 and 10-12 cm (the depth is indicated to the bottom of the bulb).

This is necessary in order for the bulb to gain strength - to become large, dense, elastic. All factors influence this process: heat, the presence of moisture, as well as nutrition.

You can carry out foliar top dressing on the leaves with fertilizers with trace elements (magnesium, iron, boron, manganese). Well-soluble fertilizers in water are suitable for this.

Mulch the soil with light-colored materials (sawdust, straw, mowed grass)..Low land for landing.

Faded flowers from the peduncles should be removed, and the peduncles themselves should be cut off at the end of the season.

If the plantings of lilies are large, and there are too many beetles and larvae, you will have to spray them with special preparations. Unfortunately, spraying flowering lilies reduces their decorative qualities: spots remain on the leaves and buds, and cut flowers acquire an unpleasant odor.

If the bulbs are clean and with roots, then they are only pickled for 20-30 minutes in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate.

In the first year of life, lilies usually do not reach their full development and may not bloom well, but in subsequent blooms they will delight with their duration and abundance.

Almost all lilies are well suited for neutral or slightly acidic, loose, permeable soil.After autumn transplant lilies, not before heavy autumn rains, I cover the bulbs for the winter with leaves, spruce branches or peat, and on top - with a whole plastic wrap.

The distance between lily bulbs when planting depends on the height and power of the plants.

When favorable conditions in early August, they begin to transplant lilies of the June flowering time (mainly Asian hybrids).

There are some features in the care of some types of lilies.

Lilies do not tolerate excess moisture. Planting in a lowland leads to diseases, rotting of the bulbs and even to their death.
In late autumn, the stems of lilies are cut short. In areas with little snow with harsh winter conditions, planting lilies should be covered with peat or sawdust with a layer of 10 cm.

Sometimes the buds are damaged by a lily fly,
After washing and dressing, I dry the lily bulbs in the shade, cut the roots to 5 - 10 cm, and then plant

How to plant lilies and care for them.

Every summer, it is advisable to sprinkle the beds with lilies with ash 2-3 times - it serves as a fertilizer and at the same time kills pathogenic fungi.
This technique is mandatory for Oriental hybrids (Orientals), since in their original form these lilies grow where autumn and winter are dry.

I plant large lilies in 20-25 cm, low ones - at a distance of 10-15 cm from one another. When planting lilies, make grooves or holes 10 cm deeper than it should be for planting (since lilies are usually planted with roots). But some annual lilies may not have roots, which may be due to the dryness of the soil.
If by the time of division the plants are green, without signs of disease, then before transplanting, the stems of lilies are cut close to the soil surface, leaving a stump. If the stems of the lilies have died (which indicates the presence of fungal diseases), then, after digging up the bulbs, carefully unscrew the dead stems from them. Tubular lilies
A bouquet of lilies keeps fresh for more than 10 days. Cut lily flowers are quite unpretentious and undemanding to frequent changes of water in a vase. Don't be afraid to buy a lily with unopened buds. It is enough if at least one flower begins to open on the branch. The more closed buds on the stem, the better - the flowering will last longer. Lily buds open gradually, from the bottom to the top, just remove the faded ones as they fade.
How to avoid it.
In the 2-3rd year after planting, the flowering of lilies is especially abundant, in the 4-5th year, plant growth usually decreases, and flowering also weakens garden flower. This serves as a signal that it is time to divide and transplant the lily to a new place.
laying eggs in them. Young plants are often affected by aphids. Bulbs in the soil are harmed by bears, thrips, wireworms, and May beetle larvae. Fighting these insects is difficult, but necessary. We recommend drugs: Medvetoks, Provotoks, Pochin, Zemlin, Grom, Grom-2, Mukhoed, Grizzly. .
Lilies are different. special attention require oriental lilies. In September they need to be sheltered from the rains, and then from the frost. The rest of the lilies are Asians and hybrids do not require shelter for the winter.
An important tip for the continued excellent growth and development of large colorful buds is proper preparation bulbs for planting. It is after the period of shedding of the petals, when flowering ends, the process of bulb ripening begins, it is on this that the state of the next “harvest” depends. Thus, if we do not miss the period, we are guaranteed a lush garden next season. Lilies are also grown for cutting and as a simple flower bed decoration, the largest and healthiest bulbs are obtained from those that have faded naturally and in the right conditions.
Asian hybrids, LA hybrids and OT hybrids do not need to be protected from atmospheric moisture.
When planting a bulb on the bottom of the planting hole, I pour a mound of washed river sand. After three to five years of cultivation without a transplant, most lilies form extensive "nests" "from bulbs of various ages and sizes.
very fond of lime. After all, their ancestors once lived on mountain slopes, on limestone. Include calcium nitrate in their feeding, add dolomite or fluffy lime.
If you get dirty with pollen
You need to choose a site for planting where there is no stagnation of melt and rainwater either in spring or autumn, or arrange reliable drainage.
You need to start caring for lilies from the moment they are planted. When cutting flowers, keep as many leaves on the stem as possible. Removal of leaves (1/3 or more) leads to worse flowering or its absence next year.
The depth of planting of lily bulbs depends on their type, size and mechanical composition of the soil. Usually the bulb is planted at a depth of three times its diameter. The only exceptions are a few types of lilies.
Let's start planting lilies
It's no secret that cutting slows down development, but with proper care, the likelihood of growing a prolific large bulb is quite high.

But I always cover the lilies all the same, that is, always with a film. If the rains begin back in September, then cover the plantings of lilies with a film, and you can put the leaves under the film only after the ground freezes from above (so that the mice cannot get to the bulbs).

I place a lily bulb on it, carefully straighten the existing roots, and then I fill the hole with the plant with earth.

Such "nests" "usually fall apart after digging, but sometimes they have to be divided. This should be done after cutting the stems with extreme caution.

oriental lilies,

From furniture and clothing, remove pollen with duct tape (scotch tape). Almost all varieties of lilies have a rich smell. Lilies with large white and Pink colour- especially, which is even stronger at night. Therefore, it is recommended to remove the vase with lilies from the bedrooms.