The compatibility of vegetables in the garden is a much more important question than it might seem at first glance. Among plants, as among people, there are friends and enemies. The quality of the harvest and, in general, the vital activity of certain plants may depend on knowledge of these nuances. Let’s take a closer look at what to plant next to what.
Mixed plantings
A special science, allelopathy, deals with the problems of interaction between plants in the garden. Any plant releases a variety of substances into the soil and air that have a positive or negative effect on its “neighbors.” The useful and harmful proximity of vegetables in the beds is presented in the table below. In the meantime, let's look at the advantages of mixed planting technology:
- saves space in the garden;
- the soil is less depleted, there is no need for annual crop rotation;
- less effort is required to treat pests, since some plants themselves repel them;
- when planting vegetables together in beds, almost no additional fertilizer is required;
- The quality of the harvest and the taste of the fruits increase (for example, beans can make radishes tastier, and mint can make white cabbage), as well as the amount of vitamins and sugars in them.
Rules to follow when organizing combined plantings of vegetable crops:
- The width of each bed should exceed a meter. This will be necessary in the future for ease of plant care.
- The bed is divided into several sections. Crops that take a long time to grow and ripen are planted in the central one. These are peppers, cabbage, tomatoes. When the season comes, they will already occupy a good half of the ridge.
- Those types of crops that ripen quickly are planted from the edges. Mostly greens, but also strawberries and grapes.
An example of a properly organized garden bed for joint plantings:
Lettuce grows on the edge, carrots or radishes alternate with marjoram in the second row, and onions in the third. The 4th and 5th row correspond to the 1st and 2nd. Cucumbers are planted in the middle.
You can come up with a lot of similar schemes, it all depends on necessary plants and on your attentiveness in matters of their combination.
Neighborhood of vegetables in the beds
Good neighbors are radishes, beans, lettuce, mint, dill, spinach. But tomatoes and cucumbers do not go together at all, since they require different amounts of moisture. Tomatoes also need a lot of fresh air, while cucumbers prefer the greenhouse effect. In general, tomatoes cannot be combined with almost any garden crops. The exceptions are radishes, asparagus, garlic, and parsley.
But basil is almost universal and can benefit any plant.
Cabbage is not recommended to be planted next to beets, carrots, beans, and pumpkin will not be happy with potatoes. It is better to plant it with relatives - zucchini, squash or melons. Otherwise, the harvest will be significantly worse.
Beneficial neighbors of beets are cabbage, zucchini, and legumes.
Peas go well with corn, lettuce and cabbage, but they don’t do well if their neighbors in the garden are zucchini, onions, and beans.
The ideal neighbors of dill are potatoes and parsley, and cucumbers are eggplants, onions, and lettuce.
Potatoes are usually planted separately, away from other crops. But it should be taken into account that horseradish will help protect it from bedbugs, and beans/peas or other legumes will saturate the soil with nitrogen, which will have a positive effect on the quantity and quality of the harvest. They will also repel Colorado potato beetles.
Every Plant Needs Pollinators, Here's Why good decision will plant flowers next to vegetables. In addition to flowers, marjoram, mint, and lemon balm are also attractive to pollinating insects. These herbs are always useful on the farm for use in culinary or medicinal purposes, and at the same time the yield of your vegetable crops will increase significantly. Plus, they decorate wonderfully. country cottage area.
Another important point: presence of earthworms in the soil. They loosen the soil, which increases the amount of oxygen in it. Worms are attracted to crops such as onions, valerian, and chicory.
Spinach is very convenient option for joint plantings, because it releases a lot of saponin into the soil - a substance that promotes root growth and improves access to water and nutrients. They also have the same property different types primrose.
Compatibility table for vegetables in garden beds
More detailed data can be found in the following tables:
Examples of bad neighborhoods not included in the tables
Organizing joint plantings vegetables in the garden, make sure that the gooseberries are kept away from the currants, otherwise the moth, a dangerous pest for berries, will actively multiply.
A pear planted near a cherry tree will often get sick. The same situation is observed when planting any type of currant next to cherries or cherries. And juniper planted under a pear will most likely infect it with fungal infections.
The apple tree also loses from the proximity of cherries, as well as apricots, barberries, and lilacs. In general, cherries react aggressively to any planting under their crown, especially trees.
To prevent a pest called the strawberry-raspberry weevil, do not plant strawberries and raspberries next to each other. But almost any other plants next to raspberries, on the contrary, feel better because they saturate the earth with oxygen.
It is noteworthy that it is not advisable to plant birch in your garden - it has a very strong root system that absorbs huge amounts of water, taking it away from other plants. The same can be said about maple and spruce.
Plants that can repel pests:
Celery and shag resist cabbage fly, onion - excellent remedy against spider mite. Wormwood and garlic are enemies of cruciferous flea beetles, and tomatoes are not to the liking of flea beetles and flea beetles. Garlic is also effective in repelling aphids and also helps the soil accumulate sulfur.
Vegetable neighborhood rules for greenhouses
If vegetable compatibility is important to you when planting in a greenhouse, keep the following factors in mind:
- in greenhouses, vegetables grow faster, and overall the harvest is better;
- in order to properly plant vegetables in a garden bed in a greenhouse, you need to adhere to the same principles as in open ground;
- before planting, you need to carefully develop a layout of the beds;
- You also need to take into account the cardinal directions - cucumbers and tomatoes grow better on the sunny southern side.
The compatibility of plants in a garden bed in a greenhouse is closely related to the season. There are two types of greenhouse mixed planting. In the first greens are grown in early spring, in the second, different crops are cultivated throughout the season. In other words, greens are planted first, which ripen very quickly, then they are collected and tomatoes or cucumbers are planted in the same place.
In a greenhouse, it is advisable to plant those plants that require similar conditions of humidity and temperature. Cucumbers provide abundant shade, so shade-loving crops can be placed next to them. Tomatoes will do well with white cabbage.
Mixed plantings of vegetables will help you get a good harvest even in difficult conditions - poor soil, unsuitable climate. You can combine mixed beds with compacted seeding technology to improve the result. In a word, creating the vegetable garden of your dreams is in your hands, if you correctly use modern developments. Both beginners and experienced gardeners can learn something new from mixed planting technology.
Even on a small garden plot You can grow a varied crop of vegetables and fruits if you place all the crops correctly. The correct proximity of plants can either help in achieving the goal or hinder it. Let's see what can be planted next to the bell pepper.
It is thermophilic and whimsical plant. The achievements of modern selection make it possible to grow it in the conditions of the Urals and Siberia in open ground, but more often in these regions Bell pepper planted in a greenhouse.
The soil for growing peppers should be loose and fertile and retain moisture well. Fertilizing is carried out six times per season with organic and mineral fertilizers. Frequent watering, but without stagnation of water, allows the bush to form correctly.
Most often it is necessary to sow seedlings in boxes, since the growing season is long. After the onset of warm weather, the seedlings are planted in the garden. If frost is still possible, cover it with film or special non-woven material. Even in the summer months, you don't have to remove the shelter if the weather is below 25 degrees. In such cases, it is preferable to choose self-pollinating varieties, which will produce an ovary even under the film.
It is important to ensure that there is enough fresh air and that the bushes are not infected with blackleg - the most dangerous disease for this crop.
The plant, especially in the first months, is fragile, so support is desirable. For getting more shoots, the top of the bush is trimmed at a height of twenty-five centimeters. Harvesting takes place 80–90 days after germination.
Growing in open ground
What does bell pepper live with in open ground? With many crops that have phytoncidal properties and a specific odor:
- onions;
- marigolds;
- tansy;
- coriander;
- catnip;
- spinach;
- nasturtium.
This juxtaposition can be used in so-called mixed beds: when several plants are planted on a small plot of land (bed) and processed together. In this case, the bell pepper is planted at a distance of slightly more than 40 centimeters between the bushes, and other plants are planted in the same bed with it, between the rows.
The combination of pepper and the described plants helps protect the capricious crop from pests, since the substances secreted by marigolds or coriander repel insects, and phytoncides prevent dangerous bacteria from developing in the soil.
In this regard, it is useful to use herbs:
- marjoram;
- basil;
- dill;
- thyme;
- lovage
They exhibit a similar effect, without interfering with the pepper growing and bearing fruit. At the same time, a plant such as okra will protect fragile bushes from the wind and serve as a support. It is better to plant it along the edge of the garden bed.
Based on the similarity of care, seedlings of carrots, eggplants and zucchini are good neighbors for peppers. For carrots this is considered one of best options in the garden. They work well with each other, reducing the gardener’s labor costs and making the work easier. Carrot seedlings repel many pests.
With which ornamental plants you can plant it for good harvest? It is enough to sow nettles and chamomile in the garden. They will speed up the ripening process and allow the pepper to develop better. Dandelion also has a similar effect, however, when combining these plants, it is important to carry out weeding on time, otherwise the garden will become overgrown with weeds, and its owner will be left without a harvest. Of the weeds, it is enough to grow several specimens along the edges of the bed.
Sweet can be planted next to tomatoes and cabbage - such a neighborhood, although not particularly beneficial, is quite acceptable and does not harm any of the plants. However, you should be careful that tomato diseases do not spread to the Bulgarian bush, since both crops belong to the nightshade family.
Difficulties may arise with cabbage, as it consumes a large number of moisture, and some varieties form a wide head of cabbage surrounded by large cabbage leaves. As a result, cabbage takes up a lot of space, which is unprofitable if grown together. Although compact sweet pepper bushes can fit comfortably in the space between cabbage plants.
When determining what else to plant next to the pepper, it is easy to focus on green crops that can be combined with many plants. These are chard, spinach, lettuce. They can be planted next to peppers to save space. They will not take up much space in the garden bed; they will require good watering and shade the soil, preventing it from cracking during the dry period.
Unlucky neighbors
When finding out who the plant is friends with, it is important to identify its “enemies”, with whom compatibility is negative, which will not only reduce the yield, but can also lead to the death of the plants. All the gardener’s efforts will be in vain.
Among the plants that peppers should not be planted next to is fennel. It is very aggressive, and the aromatic substances it releases can destroy the plantings of many crops, including sweet peppers.
Beet seedlings will be the first to take their “place in the sun”, taking not only most light, but nutrients - such a neighborhood is unfavorable for both plants, but the pepper will lose first.
Among the varieties of cabbage, there are species that are incompatible with pepper - kohlrabi and Brussels sprouts, which compete for nutrients.
It is unacceptable to plant sweet peppers next to hot ones. This will lead to cross-pollination of plants, as a result, sweet varieties will become bitter, the fruits will decrease, and the seeds obtained in the future will already produce new variety specifically with sharp, bitter fruits - something between sweet and hot peppers. It is better if these varieties are located at a considerable distance from each other, preventing the combination of pollen.
It is not recommended to plant it next to potato plantings. These plants suffer from similar diseases, so their compatibility can lead to the rapid spread of diseases. In addition, the bushes formed by potatoes take up a lot of space, limiting the space for peppers.
Unfavorable neighbors for bell pepper beans and peas appear. Although these crops enrich the soil with nitrogen and loosen it, when planted next to pepper, they suppress it. In addition, the peas are looking for support on which they could twine, and the seedlings standing nearby are well suited for this. As a result, the pepper may simply break or be “smothered” by the legume crop.
Let's look into the greenhouse
Growing in a greenhouse requires a separate approach. Since there is little space in such rooms, and the spread of infections occurs faster, the selection of plants must be done more carefully.
When deciding what to plant with, gardeners consider two things: making the most of the space and preventing the development of diseases.
Let's see what is worth planting next to the bell pepper. Planting peppers next to onions is also acceptable in a greenhouse; you can find a place nearby for seedlings of zucchini, carrots, white cabbage or cauliflower. The latter type is preferable because it takes up less space.
Any herbs will only improve the yield of peppers - they are compatible with many crops and are generally recommended for planting in closed ground. An important condition here is the ability to repel many insects and other pests, in particular aphids, whiteflies and powdery mildew.
The question of whether it is possible to plant similar crops next to each other, such as eggplants and tomatoes, is controversial. Since plants suffer from the same diseases, they can easily transmit them to each other, which in a limited space, especially with poor ventilation, threatens complete loss of the crop. It is necessary to use this combination with great caution and do not forget about regular treatment of plants and soil. You can try varieties that are more resistant to pests.
Nasturtium and chamomile, planted nearby, will have a beneficial effect on the main crop, increasing its productivity.
It is not recommended to plant peppers in a greenhouse next to cucumbers, since they different requirements to growing conditions. Cucumbers need high level humidity, and the Bulgarian culture prefers dry and warm air, when combined, infections can develop.
Fennel and dill are not greenhouse plants and should not be planted next to pepper. The effect of fennel has already been described, and dill spreads so actively that it can interfere with other plants, in addition, its tall peduncles and large umbrellas prevent the pepper from receiving a sufficient amount of light. Dill can also become a source of carrot flies, which settle in its roots and are dangerous, first of all, for carrots, and its umbrellas become a refuge for aphids - dangerous for peppers.
Planting beets and some varieties of cabbage is also dangerous next to peppers - this significantly reduces the yield of the crop.
Peas planted next to peppers, like beans and other legumes, are also very dangerous, so it is not recommended to plant legumes in greenhouses.
Thus, when deciding what can be planted next to pepper, you need to start from the compatibility of the crops and their influence on each other. Sometimes the list of things you can plant peppers with may seem strange, but more often this is proven data. Some information can be obtained from own experience and make your own list of combined plants.
» Vegetable garden
When planning garden beds, it is important to consider the compatibility of vegetable crops. Gardeners have more than once had to deal with the problem of low yields in the absence of any prerequisites for this. And the reason may be trivial - an inconvenient neighborhood, so you need to know what can be planted with and what not.
This article reveals all the secrets of arranging a vegetable garden, because the growth and development of both crops depends on which plant is planted in close proximity, and what is important is their fruiting.
When landing, taking into account compatibility, it is quite possible increase productivity by 15-20%. You should be especially careful when choosing a neighbor when placing several types of vegetables in one garden bed or greenhouse.
Approximately the same growing conditions make it easier to care for shoots:
- lighting intensity;
- watering mode;
- preparing the soil for planting;
- introduction of fertilizing.
If you plant bad neighbors- this is fraught with the following consequences:
- attracting insects that create many problems for young shoots;
- fungal infection as a result of waterlogging;
- Negative influence waste products, as a result of which the neighbor develops poorly or stops growing.
Experienced gardeners use invaluable knowledge in practice, annually observing the interaction of nearby plants.
To make planning easier, they draw up a plan for the garden, dividing it into beds for vegetables and berries before planting. Thus, the rules of crop rotation and the laws of compatibility in open ground are taken into account.
What can you plant next to potatoes?
One of the most popular vegetables, which is included in the list basic products for winter preparations. Before it is planted, its predecessors are taken into account.
The best are considered:
- carrot;
- green manure;
- cucumber;
- legumes;
- pepper;
- cabbage;
- beet.
Not worth it use the same area annually, it will not be possible to get a good harvest with such a layout. Low rates of fruiting of potatoes are also noted if they are placed on a former tomato bed.
In relation to its neighbors, the plant shows more tolerance than mutually beneficial consolidation. The best compatibility is noted only with beans.
The vegetable does not like to be friends with cucumbers, onion sets, tomatoes and cabbage. And you definitely shouldn’t place potatoes nearby: peas, beets and celery. The root crop gets along well with other plants.
Neighbors for tomatoes
A favorable place for growing tomatoes is considered to be areas where the following crops were previously grown:
- cauliflower;
- turnip;
- cucumber;
- greenery;
- carrot;
- beet.
Among worst predecessors: potatoes, peas and zucchini. According to the rules of crop rotation, vegetables are planted in the same place after 3-4 years, therefore, you should not use a former tomato bed for tomato seedlings.
- beans;
- radish;
- corn;
- radish;
- cabbage;
- pepper;
- onions and other green vegetables.
There is no negative impact on tomatoes from neighboring beds with parsnips, strawberries, kohlrabi, lettuce, and spinach.
Planting peppers with other vegetables
When planting pepper, it is worth considering its varietal characteristics. Sweet, Bulgarian and bitter varieties are placed separately from each other to prevent cross-pollination. The most suitable predecessors are:
- legumes;
- cabbage (early varieties);
- greenery;
- cucumbers;
- wheat (winter);
- perennial herbs.
Not worth it choose areas after potatoes, eggplants, tomatoes and physalis. When growing other plants in the planned bed, there are no strict restrictions on pepper.
Arranging a bed of peppers Can close to the following crops:
- carrots;
- basil
- onions;
- coriander.
If in decorative purposes or plant marigolds, oregano, and nasturtium as preventive measures against pests, then the pepper will simply smell fragrant from such companions. And you should avoid proximity to fennel, beans and kohlrabi.
cucumbers
The soil environment is more suitable for growing greens after cabbage and tomatoes. And the predecessors from the pumpkin family are the most undesirable.
Has a positive effect on the yield of cucumbers dill, so it is taken not only as a companion, but also sown interspersed.
The following have a beneficial effect on the development of crunches: onions, beans, peas, garlic, spinach. Calendula placed between the rows will create reliable protection from insects feeding on young cucumber leaves.
Recommended from proximity to potatoes, radishes and tomatoes refuse, plants have a negative effect on each other.
Cabbage
Cabbage planting is planned after peas, beans, cucumbers. Do not spoil the soil environment: peppers, carrots and herbs. And fodder beet and other representatives of cruciferous crops are considered bad predecessors.
It’s easy to choose a cabbage companion for your immediate surroundings fit many plants:
- beet;
- beans;
- sage;
- celery;
- dill;
- salad.
It is allowed to plant flowers and herbs: oregano, chamomile, nasturtium, mint, etc. Won't fit strawberries and tomatoes as companions.
Good neighbors for carrots in the garden
When choosing a place for sowing carrots, preference is given to the following predecessors:
- cucumbers;
- tomatoes;
- potato;
- cabbage;
- leek;
- greenery;
- legumes
Experienced gardeners notice that after zucchini, celery, parsnips and parsley it turns out bad harvest carrots, the root crop develops poorly, as if it lacks nutrients (although fertilizing is introduced according to schedule).
The carrot bed should be planned in close proximity from such crops:
- garlic;
- tomato;
- radish;
- peas.
Sage, marigolds and scorzonera can be planted between rows to repel pests.
Unfavorable neighborhood celebrated with beets, beans and dill. Carrots get along with other plants without any problems.
Zucchini
Everyone's favorite zucchini bear fruit well on the soil after legumes and early varieties of cabbage. Do not spoil the structure of the soil and the environment: greens, onions, garlic.
And such predecessors as carrots, tomatoes and cabbage of late ripening are considered most unsuccessful.
Zucchini (squash) can be safely planted next to the following plants:
- beans;
- corn;
- peas;
- beans.
Pumpkin
Disembarkation rules pumpkins in many ways similar to zucchini, they have the same recommended predecessors. However, the neighborhood is slightly expanded; additional tomatoes, radishes and sunflowers can be planted.
The pumpkin crop only tolerates potatoes. Gets along well with other plants.
Beet
Beet sowing can be done on former beds:
- carrots;
- potatoes;
- cucumbers;
- Luke;
- greenery
The root crop develops well after green manure. In addition, after such a change in layout, there is a decrease in weed growth.
Beets and onions are a good combination You can safely add: cabbage, kohlrabi, lettuce, and onions to beets. To repel insects, you can plant catnip, mint, oregano between the rows.
- potato;
- corn;
- spinach;
- bulb onions;
- carrot.
Growing in a garden with other neighbors does not cause any particular concern.
Where to plant strawberries in open ground
Strawberry crop does not show capriciousness to the soil environment, so there will be no difficulty in choosing a place for planting young shoots. Useful precursors for strawberries are:
- parsley;
- radish;
- garlic;
- legumes;
- corn;
- carrot;
- dill, etc.
You should refuse to use a plot for strawberries if there is were previously grown:
- potato;
- tomatoes, peppers;
- eggplant;
- cabbage;
- raspberries
Arranging vegetable beds, as neighbors for strawberries it is recommended to choose:
- spinach;
- salad;
- radish;
- cabbage;
- carrot.
With other plants sweet berry will also be comfortable, since there is no obvious rivalry between them.
What crops are suitable for proximity to eggplants?
When choosing a place to plant eggplants, preference should be given to the following predecessors: onions, cucumbers, cabbage early dates ripening, perennial herbs.
From former beds with potatoes, tomatoes, physalis and peppers it's better to refuse. It is also necessary to follow the rules of crop rotation, It is impossible to place and grow a crop in the same place every year(an interval of at least 3 years is observed).
When planning an eggplant bed Can select as companions:
- peas;
- beans;
- basil;
- salad;
- tarragon;
- thyme.
The representative of the nightshade family gets along quite well with the rest of its neighbors. The blue ones have no special prohibitions on combining.
Peas and beans
The best predecessors For peas and beans, root vegetable crops, cabbage, and representatives of the pumpkin family are considered. The legumes themselves create the most favorable environment in the soil when growing, so after them you can grow almost anything.
Not worth it When organizing a bed after sunflower, the quality and yield are significantly reduced due to fungal infections and contamination with carrion.
When selecting companions, first of all, the proximity to each other (peas and beans) is excluded. This is caused by several factors:
- attracting pests;
- interweaving of stems;
- possibility of cross-pollination.
The most suitable for close proximity are:
- kohlrabi;
- carrot;
- salad;
- radish;
- celery;
- corn;
- cabbage;
- potato.
Planting with other crops has no special restrictions.
Greenery
When selecting precursors for greens (onions, dill, parsley, garlic, cilantro), preference should be given to legumes and vegetable root vegetables.
Not recommended plant greens after umbrella crops; the relatedness of the plants indicates their identical nutritional needs. Because of this, the yield will decrease significantly every year.
Close to green planting can be placed beds with cabbage, kohlrabi, cucumbers, strawberries, peppers and other green vegetables. Definitely not suitable for growing together: carrots, parsnips, tomatoes. The proximity of greenery to early varieties of potatoes and representatives of legumes is allowed.
Crops table
It is useful to supplement the gardener’s diary with a table of compatibility of crops grown on your site.
In red indicates incompatibility of cultures, green- the most favorable neighborhood for development and fruiting. Colorless window indicates the neutrality of interaction between plants, which does not exclude their proximity in the garden.
There is absolutely no difficulty in planning beds if you think everything through in advance. Autumn processing soil cultivation should be carried out taking into account the agricultural technology of those vegetables and berries that will be grown on it next season.
"Winter cherry"
The berries of viburnum, rowan, some varieties of cherries and other plants can taste bitter. But if they are caught by frost, the starch accumulated during the summer and autumn turns into sugars. Sucrose is broken down into glucose and fructose. As a result, with the onset of cold weather, the berries become sweeter. Also, when sub-zero temperature- the destruction of glycosides, which are associated with a bitter-sour, tart taste, occurs, the fruits become more edible, much more pleasant to the taste. Preparations can be made earlier, preserving the harvest collected from the garden plot - in freezer refrigerator.
When the first long thaw occurs, fruits and berries (both hanging on branches and lying on the ground) can ferment in the warmth - sugar begins to turn into intoxicating alcohol. Birds and animals (hedgehogs, squirrels, moose, etc.) eat fermented berries and get drunk, become easy prey for predators, and die under the wheels of cars on roads. With subsequent warmings, already fermented fruits completely deteriorate, turn sour, and become useless to anyone, neither animals nor people.
The berries left on the branches during the winter, under certain weather conditions, can turn into a unique product, comparable in taste qualities, with expensive wine, exquisite drink. But this can happen only in a very limited time interval. Without timely collection and conservation (by cooling, freezing), the properties will change.
Personal website What to plant with what
The basic principle of placing mixed crops in a garden bed is the need to take into account the influence of different crops on each other. It is known that many plants actively develop near each other, however, there are crops that cannot be planted in close proximity, since their struggle for light, water and nutrients leads to a significant reduction in yield.
Eg, Basil feels great next to fennel, tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, leaf and head lettuce, corn and zucchini , but next to marjoram it will grow stunted.
U Dill It is better to plant bush beans, peas, fennel, kohlrabi, white cabbage, broccoli, turnips, carrots, parsnips, lettuce, sunflowers, onion, nasturtium and calendula, and proximity to basil and watercress should be avoided.
For fennel A combination of basil, peas, parsley, parsnips and celery will be useful. But it is not advisable to plant it next to bush beans, watercress, kohlrabi, broccoli, white cabbage, coriander, marjoram and tomatoes.
Watercress will be pleased with the proximity to carrots, radishes, radishes and lettuce, but the proximity to Asian salads and beets is unlikely to please him.
Feels great next to dill, cucumbers, cabbage, broccoli, kohlrabi, coriander, chard, radish, radishes, beets, calendula, celery, sunflowers and tomatoes Bush beans. But next to peas, onions and green onions, chives and fennel should not be planted.
Peas will grow and bear fruit well in the vicinity of fennel, nasturtium, calendula, coriander, carrots, radishes, radishes, lettuce, celery and sunflowers. Undesirable neighbors for it are bush beans, watercress, green and onions, chives and tomatoes.
Cucumber feels great next to many garden crops: beans, peas, basil, dill, fennel, white cabbage, kohlrabi, broccoli, coriander, marjoram, beets, lettuce, spinach, onions, sunflowers and calendula. But we do not recommend planting cucumbers next to tomatoes, radishes, radishes, potatoes, and watercress.
Tomatoes grow well in tandem with basil, beans, dill, watercress, green onions, carrots, radishes, radishes, lettuce, celery, chives, spinach, calendula and nasturtium. The proximity to cucumbers, kohlrabi, fennel and sunflowers is unfavorable.
Kohlrabi grows well next to basil, beans, dill, cucumbers, coriander, carrots, parsley, radishes, radishes, beets, lettuce, celery, spinach, tomato, calendula and nasturtium. The proximity to watercress, turnips and onions is unfavorable for it.
Good neighbors for white cabbage and broccoli are peas, dill, cucumbers, carrots, chard, beets, celery, spinach, tomatoes, calendula and nasturtium. Do not plant cabbage next to watercress and onions.
Coriander grows well next to cucumbers, kohlrabi, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, parsnips, lettuce and onions. Neighborhood with watercress, fennel and parsley has a negative impact on the state of the crop.
For green onions, proximity to basil, kohlrabi, broccoli, white cabbage, turnips, carrots, parsnips, parsley, calendula, celery, spinach, tomatoes and onions is favorable. Beans, peas, watercress, chard and beets are poor neighbors for green onions.
Chives, radishes, radishes, broccoli, White cabbage, kohlrabi, watercress, peas, and beans are bad neighbors for onions.
Turnips grow well next to peas, dill, marjoram, chard, parsnips, radishes, radishes, lettuce, celery, spinach and nasturtium. The proximity to tomatoes, kohlrabi and white cabbage is unfavorable for it.
The best neighbors for carrots are beans, peas, dill, watercress, onion and green onions, marjoram, chard, parsley, radish, radish, lettuce, chives, spinach, tomatoes, sage and calendula. The proximity to beets is unfavorable.
Radishes and radishes grow well alongside watercress, chervil, nasturtium, chives, parsley, carrots, calendula, lettuce, spinach and tomatoes. It is not advisable to plant radishes and radishes next to cucumbers, basil and chard.
For beets, proximity to beans, dill, coriander, parsnips, lettuce, onions, zucchini, calendula and nasturtium is favorable.
The proximity to green onions, chard, parsley, chives, spinach and corn is unfavorable.
Parsley grows well next to carrots, radishes, radishes, onions and calendula. It is not advisable to grow parsley next to chervil, watercress, coriander and nasturtium.
Leaf and head lettuce develop best next to beans, peas, dill, fennel, chervil, nasturtium, kohlrabi, white turnips, parsnips, radishes, radishes, calendula, chives, tomatoes, corn and onions. The proximity to parsley and celery is unfavorable.
Chives grow well next to kohlrabi, carrots, parsnips, celery, spinach, tomatoes, nasturtium and calendula. It is undesirable to be near beans, peas, watercress, broccoli, white cabbage, coriander and beets.
For celery, proximity to beans, kohlrabi, broccoli, white cabbage, turnips, green onions, parsnips, tomatoes and spinach is favorable. Celery should not be planted next to watercress, corn, lettuce or lettuce.
Spinach grows well next to beans, dill, kohlrabi, broccoli, cabbage, marjoram, radish, radish, lettuce, and tomatoes. The proximity to watercress, chard, and beets is unfavorable.
For zucchini, proximity to basil, beans, turnips, chard, radishes, radishes, beets, onions, and nasturtium is favorable.
It is not advisable to plant zucchini next to cucumbers.
As a rule, in mixed crops, early-, mid- and late-ripening species and crops are combined, and harvesting is carried out sequentially, thereby freeing up space for the development of the plants remaining in the bed. It is also possible to combine light-loving and shade-tolerant crops in compacted crops.
Along with traditional combinations of garden crops, you can try new ones. For example, plant along vegetable beds spicy crops - dill, fennel, basil, essential oils which repel cabbage butterflies and carrot flies. You can prevent the invasion of nematodes in your garden by planting calendula along the beds, and get rid of aphids by planting nasturtium.
Growing onions and carrots together. These crops repel onion and carrot flies. For joint cultivation, onion sets and early varieties carrots, as well as winter onions and late varieties of carrots.
Many garden crops respond to changes in environmental factors by premature flowering and early fruiting. The reasons for such reactions can be soil compaction, lack of moisture and nutrients, and a prolonged decrease in air temperature.
For onions and garlic, ideal predecessors are zucchini, cucumbers, pumpkin, tomatoes, potatoes and early varieties of white cabbage; Planting after legumes is also acceptable.
The bow is good remedy from spider mites, garlic and wormwood repel cruciferous flea beetles, and tomato repels cabbage flea beetles.
Joint cultivation of beans, beets and savory. The central row is sown with beets, beans are planted in rows on the sides, and savory is sown across the bed. Savory, which takes root well in the soil, reliably protects plants from bean aphids. In addition, this spicy herb can be used as a seasoning for bean dishes.
Joint cultivation of radishes, parsley, carrots and onions. The bulbs are planted in the garden bed at a distance of 12-15 cm from each other. Between them, 1 radish seed is sown in the holes, then 2 rows of carrots and 2 rows of parsley are sown alternately.
After harvesting onions and radishes, the free space in the beds is completely filled with parsley and carrots, and by the end of the growing season they have formed normally developed root crops.
Joint cultivation of tomatoes, carrots, spinach and onions. With early sowing, you can get up to 8-10 kg of vegetables from a plot of 1 m2. The seeds of these crops are sown in a bed about 1 m wide in a certain order: spinach at the edge, then onions and carrots.
Tomatoes are planted in a free space in the middle of the bed at a distance of 0.5-1 m from each other, and only after the danger of frost has passed.
Of these crops, spinach ripens the earliest. After cleaning it, optimal conditions for active growth Luke. After withering and lodging of onion feathers, the growth of carrots increases and root crops quickly form. Tomato fruits also ripen.
Joint cultivation of radishes, spinach, kohlrabi, head and leaf lettuce. All crops are grown on a ridge 1 m wide. Kohlrabi is planted in 3 rows alternately with head lettuce. Spinach is sown between them in 2 rows. On the sides, 1 row of lettuce is sown, interspersed with radishes.
This arrangement of garden crops has a number of advantages: the plants have a beneficial effect on the development of neighbors, in addition, insect pests (for example, cruciferous flea beetles) are destroyed.
Radishes and spinach produce the first harvest, head lettuce ripens a little later, and kohlrabi is harvested last. If you plant crops according to the proposed scheme, then from an area of 1 m2 you can get from 5.5 to 7.5 kg of vegetables.
Joint cultivation of marjoram and carrots. Marjoram is placed on the sides of a wide bed, as well as between rows of carrots sown in the center of the bed. This proximity is favorable for both crops and produces high yields of marjoram and carrot roots.
At the beginning of June, you can sow carrots intended for winter storage. During the same period, carrots sown in May are thinned. If necessary, it is hilled up and fertilized with saltpeter.
Joint cultivation of parsley, head lettuce and broccoli. Crops are sown in a bed about 1 m wide. 3 rows are planted for parsley, one of them is placed in the middle, and the other two are at a distance of 5 cm from the edge of the bed. In May, 2 rows of broccoli are sown between the rows of parsley. The distance in a row between plants should be 45 cm, and between rows - about 40-50 cm. Thickened parsley plantings are thinned out and seedlings are planted in the vacant space head lettuce. The distance between lettuce bushes in a row should be at least 30-40 cm.
Joint cultivation of red beets, head, leaf and asparagus lettuce. Head and leaf lettuce bushes are planted according to a 30 x 30 cm pattern, asparagus lettuce seedlings -according to the scheme 40 x 45-60 cm. After rooting the lettuce seedlings, 20-30-day-old beet seedlings are planted in the rows at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other.
Lettuce can be harvested within 30-40 days after planting. During this time, the beets will take root well, develop, and the root crops will reach maturity. Beet root crops are harvested in September - early October.
Joint cultivation of radishes, watercress, peas and Brussels sprouts. Brussels sprouts seedlings are planted in the middle of the bed at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other.
A small amount of radish and watercress seeds are sown between the cabbage seedlings. On the sides of the bed, at a distance of 30 cm from the central row, make 1 row of peas.
The first of these crops to ripen is peas, then radishes, then Brussels sprouts and watercress. The latter remains in the shadow of the Brussels sprouts and develops normally.
Growing carrots and broccoli together. Make a bed 1 m wide; seeds of late-ripening carrot varieties are sown in the center and at a distance of 10 cm from the edges of the bed. When warm weather sets in (around the beginning of May), carrots are planted between the rows
Broccoli seedlings according to the pattern 50 x 45 cm. Broccoli is harvested during the active growth of carrot roots. Carrots are harvested at the end of September.
Joint cultivation of dill and cucumbers. Cucumber seedlings are planted in a bed about 1 m wide in 2 rows at a distance of 60 cm from each other. Dill seeds are sown between the cucumbers and along the edges of the bed. When growing these crops, it is noted good growth plants and high productivity.
Growing parsnips, head and leaf lettuce together. Parsnip and lettuce seeds are sown alternately on the same row. After the lettuce sprouts, it is thinned out. Parsnips are harvested after the lettuce is harvested, as the root crops form.
Joint cultivation of cabbage, tomatoes and celery. To grow these crops you will need a fairly large area. In this case, it is better to plant broccoli, cauliflower or savoy cabbage; for small areas, kohlrabi can be recommended from types of cabbage. Since plants need additional fertilizers, manure or compost is incorporated into the soil before planting. Joint cultivation of peas, cucumbers and dill. Peas serve as good protection from the wind for cucumber seedlings, and dill grows much better between the above-mentioned crops than in simple sowing. The joint cultivation of peas, dill and cucumbers provides good shelter soil and retaining moisture in it.
Below are other possible options mixed crops.
Head lettuce and fennel;
Chicory and white cabbage late-ripening varieties;
Cabbage, leeks and fennel;
Lettuce and wintering onions;
Spinach, cabbage, tomato, bush beans and red beets;
Chard, carrots, cabbage and radishes;
Bush beans, tomato, cucumber, white cabbage, lettuce, celery and red beets;
Climbing beans, tomato, cucumber and nasturtium;
Fava beans, lettuce and kohlrabi;
Onions, carrots, endive lettuce, head lettuce, cucumber, dill and savory;
Leeks, bush beans, cauliflower and lettuce;
Tomato, celery, lettuce and white cabbage;
Carrots, leeks, peas, tomatoes, endive, chives, radishes and chard;
Beetroot, bush beans, kohlrabi, lettuce, cucumber and peas;
Cabbage, potatoes, lettuce, celery, spinach, lettuce, leeks, and peas;
Cucumber, beans, peas, beans, celery, corn, beets, lettuce, white cabbage, fennel, dill, cumin and coriander;
Tomato, celery, parsley, lettuce, white cabbage and nasturtium;
Potatoes, cabbage, horseradish, peas, fava beans, caraway seeds and nasturtium.
What vegetables grow well nearby Compatibility
Over many centuries of growing vegetables, people have noticed that some vegetables grow well together, while others, on the contrary, interfere with each other's growth. Vegetables, herbs, and flowers help each other grow by improving the soil or keeping pests away from each other. Smart planting will provide you with a large harvest.
Choice of garden neighbors.
Choosing garden neighbors is the true art of garden planning. Each vegetable is planted in the garden not alone, but in the vicinity of another companion plant. These tactics help minimize the harmful effects of insects and diseases.
Garden neighbor rules. When choosing garden neighbors, pay attention to the families of vegetables. Vegetables from the cabbage family, for example, do well planted next to beets and green leafy crops. Some herbs will help repel pests from cabbage. Planted in the same bed as cabbage, mint will improve its taste.
Vegetables can experience not only sympathy, but also antipathy towards each other: some vegetables retard growth and reduce each other's yield. The simple sign below will help you choose a good neighborhood.
What vegetables grow well in one bed?
I offer you a short table of vegetable compatibility. More detailed information- further in the article.
| Vegetables | Good neighborhood | Bad neighborhood |
| Asparagus | Tomatoes | No |
| Beans | Corn, celery, garden savory, cucumbers, radishes, strawberries | Onion and garlic |
| Beet | Cabbage, broccoli, lettuce, onion, garlic | Beans |
| White cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts | Beets, chard, potatoes, celery, dill, lettuce, onions, spinach | Beans |
| Carrot | Legumes, tomatoes | No |
| Celery | Beans, tomatoes, cabbage | No |
| Corn | Cucumbers, watermelons, pumpkin, peas, beans, pumpkin | Tomatoes |
| cucumbers | Beans, corn, peas, cabbage | No |
| Eggplant | Beans, pepper | No |
| Melon | Corn, pumpkin, radish, zucchini | No |
| Onion | Beets, carrots, chard, lettuce, peppers | Legumes |
| Peas | Beans, cucumbers, turnips, carrots, corn, radishes. | Onion garlic |
| Potato | Beans, corn, peas | Tomatoes |
| Zucchini | Corn, melons, pumpkins | No |
| Tomatoes | Carrots, celery, cucumbers, onions, peppers | Corn, kohlrabi, potatoes |
Other useful neighbors for vegetables
In addition to the proximity of one vegetable crop on the other hand, it is good to consider other possible neighborhoods - vegetables and flowers, vegetables and herbs. Such combinations in garden beds are not only beautiful, but also useful.
Flowers next to vegetables.
Good advice: plant a few marigolds in the tomato bed; they repel pests. You can even decorate the entire perimeter of the garden with marigolds - this will help keep pests at a distance.
Some flowers act as pest traps, luring insects to them. Nasturtiums, for example, are very popular with aphids. These pests will prefer to feast on nasturtium and will not pay attention to nearby vegetables.
Vegetables and herbs.
Planting herbs nearby will give your vegetables a more refined taste. They also repel harmful insects. Rosemary repels beetles that attack beans. Thyme repels cabbage pests. Onions and garlic repel aphids. Oregano, like marigolds, is a good all-purpose barrier against most insect pests.
When deciding which vegetables to plant nearby in the garden, you need to be guided not only by scientific data, but also by common sense. Lettuce, radishes and other fast-growing plants can be planted between melons or pumpkins. Lettuce and radishes will ripen before the pumpkin grows. Shade-loving green leafy vegetables such as spinach and chard are grown in the shade of corn. Sunflowers also grow well next to corn because their roots occupy different levels in the soil and do not compete for water and nutrients.
Well, let's move from the particular to the whole, and consider the successful and unsuccessful neighbors for each vegetable.
Plant compatibility.
Neighbors for carrots.
What can I plant carrots next to? The optimal neighborhood for carrots will be:
- Beans;
- Sage;
- Radish;
- Salad;
- Rosemary;
- Peas;
- Tomatoes.
And here is a negative neighborhood for carrots:
- Dill;
- Parsley.
Optimal conditions for pepper.
- Basil;
- Coriander;
- Bow;
- Spinach;
- Tomatoes.
Do not plant peppers near beans.
Potatoes and their neighbors.
What can I plant potatoes next to? Potatoes will bring a good harvest if planted next to:
- Beans;
- Broccoli;
- Cabbage;
- Corn;
- Eggplants;
- Garlic;
- Lettuce;
- Bow;
- Peas;
- Radish.
You can’t plant potatoes if they grow nearby:
- Cucumbers;
- Melons;
- Zucchini;
- Sunflowers;
- Tomatoes;
- Turnip.
Neighbors of tomatoes.
- Asparagus;
- Basil;
- Beans;
- Cucumbers;
- Carrots;
- Celery;
- Dill;
- Salad;
- Melons;
- Bow;
- Parsley;
- Pepper;
- Radish;
- Spinach;
- Thyme;
Do not place tomato beds and any types of cabbage, potatoes and corn next to each other.
Neighbors for asparagus.
What can you plant asparagus next to? An excellent neighborhood for asparagus would be:
- Basil;
- Beet;
- Salad;
- Parsley;
- Spinach;
- Tomatoes.
What should you not plant asparagus with?
Fortunately, there are no plants that negatively affect the growth of asparagus.
Neighbors for beans.
What can you plant beans next to? Optimal neighborhood for beans:
- Broccoli;
- Corn;
- Cabbage;
- Carrot;
- Celery;
- Cauliflower;
- Cucumbers;
- Eggplant;
- Peas;
- Potato;
- Radish;
- Zucchini;
- Strawberry;
- Tomatoes.
Undesirable neighborhood for beans:
- Garlic;
- Sunflowers;
- Pepper.
Neighbors in the beet bed.
What can you plant beets next to? Beetroot will give bigger harvest Near:
- Broccoli;
- Asparagus;
- Cauliflower;
- Salad;
- Bow.
Undesirable neighbors in the beet bed:
- Mustard;
- Beans.
Broccoli and neighbors in the garden.
What should I plant broccoli next to? Optimal neighborhood for broccoli:
- Beans;
- Beet;
- Celery;
- Cucumbers;
- Potato;
- Sage.
Unwanted neighbors for broccoli:
- Cabbage;
- Cauliflower;
- Salad;
- Green beans;
- Tomatoes.
Brussels sprouts bed neighbors.
What is the best place to plant Brussels sprouts next to? Best neighbors:
- Dill;
- Salad;
- Radish;
- Sage;
- Spinach;
- Turnip.
Brussels sprouts have one unwanted neighbor: tomatoes.
Neighbors for cabbage.
What can I plant cabbage next to?
- Beans;
- Celery;
- Cucumbers;
- Dill;
- Salad;
- Potato;
- Sage;
- Spinach;
- Thyme.
Undesirable neighbors in the cabbage bed:
- Broccoli;
- Cauliflower;
- Strawberry;
- Tomatoes.
Cauliflower and its neighbors.
- Beans;
- Beet;
- Celery;
- Cucumbers;
- Sage;
- Thyme.
Bad neighbors for cauliflower:
- Broccoli;
- Cabbage;
- Strawberry;
- Tomatoes.
Companions of celery.
Celery has no unwanted neighbors. But to grow it better nearby With:
- Beans;
- Broccoli;
- Cabbage;
- Cauliflower;
- Leeks;
- Spinach;
- Tomatoes.
What beds to make next to cucumbers?
- Beans;
- Broccoli;
- Corn;
- Cabbage;
- Cauliflower;
- Sunflowers;
- Peas;
- Salad;
- Radishes.
Cucumbers should not be planted next to herbs, melons and potatoes.
Corn and its neighborhood.
- Beans;
- Cucumbers;
- Salad;
- Melons;
- Peas;
- Potato;
- Zucchini;
- Sunflowers.
But you can’t plant corn next to tomato beds!
Recommendations for eggplants.
Eggplants do not have unwanted neighbors in the garden, but they feel great next to:
- Basil;
- Beans;
- Salad;
- Peas;
- Potatoes;
- Spinach.
Lettuce.
Optimal bed companions for lettuce:
- Asparagus;
- Beet;
- Cabbage;
- Brussels sprouts;
- Carrot;
- Corn;
- Cucumbers;
- Peas;
- Eggplant;
- Potato;
- Radish;
- Spinach;
- Strawberry;
- Sunflowers;
- Tomatoes.
But broccoli is the worst companion for lettuce.
What should I plant onions next to?
The best location for onions will be:
- Beet;
- Tomatoes;
- Broccoli;
- Spinach;
- Cabbage;
- Potato;
- Carrot;
- Salad;
- Pepper.
Worst:
- Beans;
- Peas;
- Sage.
Peas and their neighbors in the garden.
What vegetables should I place next to the pea beds? Peas feel great next to:
- Beans;
- Carrots;
- Corn;
- Cucumbers;
- Eggplants;
- Salad;
- Melons;
- Pasternak;
- Potatoes;
- Radish;
- Spinach;
- Turnip.
Do not plant peas near beds with onions and garlic.
Useful weeds in the garden.
Sometimes plants can only be beneficial to each other at a certain stage of growth. This is true for some weeds as well. How can weeds in the garden be useful? Some weeds pull nutrients from deeper layers of soil and bring them to the surface. As weeds die and decompose, nutrients become available at the soil surface for shallow-rooted vegetables. This is why some vegetables grow very well next to nettles.
Spring sowing has begun in the fields and gardens. Gardeners plant cabbage, onions, eggplants and other vegetables and berries. However, when planting, it is necessary to take into account many factors that at first glance seem insignificant. For example, some crops absolutely cannot be planted nearby. Also, the same vegetables cannot be grown in the same bed for several years. But you also need to change the location of plants according to the rules. How exactly, the experienced one told gardener from Krasnodar Lyudmila Taranova.
Helpful and not so helpful neighbors
Plant compatibility must be taken into account. Some of them “help” each other, others, on the contrary, harm. It's all about the special chemicals, which plants emit during their life processes, they have different effects on their neighbors. See our infographic for details.
Making a plan for the beds
Judging by the experience of gardeners, permanent place the plant should not have it in the garden. If you plant a crop from year to year without changing its location, problems will arise with both the harvest and the soil. Proper planning of the garden area can correct the situation.
Cabbage
You cannot plant cabbage and other cruciferous vegetables (radishes, radishes) in the same place earlier than after 2-3 years. It is better to place white cabbage after potatoes, tomatoes, and onions; It is permissible to plant after beans, peas, carrots and beets.
Potato
The best predecessors for potatoes are cabbage and various root vegetables. A bad predecessor for potatoes is tomato, since these crops have common pests and pathogens. Potatoes should be grown in the same place for no more than 3 years.
cucumbers
For cucumbers, you should look for a new place every year. They grow best after cauliflower and early white cabbage. You can also plant them after tomatoes, potatoes, peas and beets.
Tomatoes
Accordingly, you cannot grow tomatoes after potatoes. Since, we repeat, the diseases and pests of these crops are the same. Good predecessors for tomatoes are cauliflower and early white cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, root vegetables and onions are acceptable.
By the way, if you plant tomatoes in the same place every year, the soil in that area becomes acidic. Therefore, every autumn, when deep digging the soil, you need to add fluff lime in small quantities (from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq. m), since tomatoes grow better in soils with neutral acidity (pH 6.5-7).
Beet
Growing beets in one place should be done no more than once every three to four years. Beets grow well after cucumbers, zucchini, squash, early cabbage, tomatoes, early potatoes, legumes. It is not advisable to plant beets after vegetables from the goosefoot family (chard, spinach).
Onion
Onions should not be planted in one place for more than three or four years in a row. The best predecessors of onions are crops to which large doses were applied organic fertilizers, as well as cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkin, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes. Onions will not produce a good harvest on heavy clay soils; they prefer light, loose, fertile soils and good light.
Garlic
You can grow garlic in one place for no more than two years, otherwise contamination of the soil with stem nematode cannot be avoided. It is better to plant garlic after cucumbers, early potatoes, early cabbage and other early-harvested crops (except onions).
Carrot
Sown after early potatoes, cabbage, green crops (excluding lettuce), placement after tomatoes and peas is allowed.
Eggplant
The best predecessors for eggplants are cucumber, onion, early ripening cabbage, and perennial herbs. You cannot plant eggplants where potatoes, tomatoes, physalis, as well as peppers and eggplants grew last year.
Strawberries
The best predecessors for strawberries are radishes, lettuce, spinach, dill, peas, beans, mustard, radish, parsley, turnips, carrots, onions, garlic, celery, as well as flowers (tulips, daffodils, marigolds). On poor soil, the best predecessors of strawberries are mustard and phacelia (they are also honey plants). Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades, as well as cucumbers, are unsuitable as predecessors. After them, the plots can be occupied with strawberries only after three to four years.
Strawberry
It is good to plant strawberries after radishes, beans, mustard, radishes, peas, parsley, and garlic. Potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers are of little use as predecessors. Strawberries should not be placed after all species of the Asteraceae family (sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke) and all types of ranunculaceae.
In addition, if space allows, highlight small plot for growing grasses - green manure: clover, lupine, alfalfa and others. This will give the earth rest, the soil will gain strength for growing vegetable crops.
Savior flowers
It turns out that the crop can be saved from diseases and pests not only with chemicals, but also with flowers, which should be planted next to the vegetables. Both beautiful and practical.
Will provide good protection against pests marigold. It is good to plant them not only in flower beds next to the window, but also along the perimeter of the garden and between the rows. Marigolds, thanks to their properties, repel nematodes from tomatoes and potatoes, save strawberries from weevils, and also drive away onion fly, scoop and cabbage white.
Marigolds protect flax, clover and wheat from fusarium.
To improve the soil in the area and scare off mole crickets in the meantime, before plowing the ground, you can scatter finely chopped marigold stems.
Marigold infusion protects peas, cabbage, apple trees, cherries, plums, currants and gooseberries from aphids
To prepare the infusion, take the above-ground part of the plants, chop them with pruning shears and fill the bucket halfway. Fill with warm (about 40-60 degrees) water and leave for two days. Then filter, add 40 g liquid soap(so that the infusion does not drain, but remains on the plants) and pour the mixture into the sprayer. Treatment rates: for the garden - 2 liters per 10 square meters; for one bush or tree under 6 years old - also 2 liters; for fruit trees and shrubs older than 6 years - 6-8 liters.Helps against whitefly and whitefly nasturtium. Flowers can be planted next to tomatoes and cabbage. Nasturtium is also useful for fruit trees. Plant two or three bushes under a cherry, peach or apple tree. In autumn, flowers can be crushed and buried in the tree trunk. This is an excellent green fertilizer.
Chamomile-pyrethrium called a natural insecticide. If planted next to cabbage, the vegetables will not be afraid of cabbage cutworm and white moth caterpillars, as well as aphids. Try planting pyrethrum in spring tree trunk circles apple trees The apple tree will be reliably protected from the codling moth, aphids and other pests. Phlox's proximity to chamomile will save you from nematodes. Rodents also do not like pyrethrum.
There is another beautiful defender of vegetables. The Colorado potato beetle, for example, does not tolerate smell calendula. Experienced gardeners advise planting calendula next to potatoes. Some people do this - in the spring they plant a row of potatoes, a row of calendula seeds, and so on. If potatoes are already planted, plant calendula somewhere nearby. In the fall, plow it into the ground where you plan to plant potatoes next year. Calendula is a good green manure. The flower will also save asters from fusarium, and rose bushes from nematodes.
Lavenderwill protect the area from ants and aphids, and the house from real moths.
Give up completely chemicals defense is not worth it, but try to focus on natural defenders.
