How to insulate a concrete floor in a bathhouse. Insulating a steam room with your own hands. Specifics of floor insulation of various functional areas of the bathhouse

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Material selection

Types of insulation: shavings, expanded clay, foam rubber, polystyrene foam, liquid foam, mineral wool.

Insulating a steam room requires a balanced approach. The modern market is simply flooded with new insulation materials and insulating films with different quality indicators. To equip a bathhouse, you should purchase only high-quality products that can not only insulate the steam room well and protect it from moisture, but also not harm human health.

Most of the thermal insulators offered on the market are not suitable for insulating a bathhouse. When exposed to temperatures of +60°, synthetic films and foams undergo destruction and begin to emit toxic fumes, while glass wool releases phenol when heated, which is very dangerous for human health.

Felt and cork materials.

According to experts, the most suitable materials for insulating a steam room are foil for vapor barrier and felt for insulation. Hybrid felt materials - flax batting (with the addition of flax), flax-jute felt - do an excellent job of insulating, do not shrink or rot. They have such a unique ability as conclusion excess moisture. An alternative to felt is cork materials. Not every product is suitable here either. Many cork coverings contain a phenol-releasing adhesive.

Scheme of insulating a steam room with mineral wool.

Today internal insulation Steam rooms are most often performed using basalt mineral wool coated with foil. You should choose products only from well-known manufacturers. Unscrupulous manufacturers use harmful impurities in the production of basalt wool. Fibrous material made from basalt stone is an environmentally friendly product, non-flammable, can withstand up to +1000°, durable. Basalt-based mineral wool retains heat well. On this moment Most bathhouse builders agreed: basalt fiber is best suited for thermal insulation of a steam room.

This environmentally friendly thermal insulator in bulk form used to insulate the floor and ceiling of a steam room. Light granules appear as a result of clay firing. Manufacturers offer different sizes of materials such as gravel or crushed stone. But the thermal insulation effect will be noticeable only if the backfill layer is 25 cm high.

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Traditional methods

• Straw. To insulate floors, you can also use straw, but only rye straw. It must be mixed with liquid clay in a 1x1 ratio. You have to mix the clay by hand or with your feet. Pour the resulting solution into the earthen base in the bathhouse, level it and wait for it to dry completely.
• Sawdust. The processing process is identical to straw. Sawdust can be used from any type of tree, but coniferous ones are best. Because they contain special resinous substances in their fibers, which, when heated, are released into the air and thereby slow down the process of decay and the spread of moisture.
• Bulk insulation. Expanded clay, slag from factories, and so on can be used as insulation. The raw materials are poured, usually onto an earthen base 5-10 cm thick. The layer on top must be compacted and filled with a thick layer of clay (10-15 cm, more is possible).

*Interesting! If it’s cold for you to stand on the floor, then the simplest and cheapest option would be to buy special wooden grates. You can easily make them yourself, just make sure that there are no nails sticking out from anywhere, and also treat the boards to get rid of knots. You can also purchase special rubberized mats in stores.

If you have your own bathhouse, then nothing interferes with friendly warm atmosphere In order to reduce the cost of fuel for heating the room, to reduce the time it takes to warm up the bath to the required temperature, it is worth thinking about insulation initially, during construction. But even if this issue was not taken into account, then dismantling the floor covering and then insulating it will not be difficult.

Insulation using perlite

Perlite solution is convenient to use for insulating concrete floors. In this case, the heat layer insulating material placed in the space between the rough floor screed and the final leveling fill.

Expanded perlite sand is a highly effective insulation material Qualitative characteristics of perlite Insulation using perlite

Important! Dusty volcanic sand scatters even from slight blows of wind, so a carefully insulated room without the slightest drafts should be chosen for preparing the solution. Having tightly closed the doors and windows, proceed to preparing the mixture and performing the main stages of work.

Table. Floor insulation with perlite

Work stage	Description
Preparation of the solution	Note! The unit of measurement in this example is a bucket. Based on the given proportions, you can prepare the required amount of solution, measuring the original ingredients in fractions, kilograms, bags, etc. Pour 2 buckets of perlite into any deep container of a suitable size, add a bucket of water to it and give the mixture time to completely shrink. Add half a bucket of cement at least M300 into the resulting solution, and then half a bucket of water. Important! Stir the mixture thoroughly after adding each component. Finally, you need to add a little more water (about half a liter) to the solution. The result will be a dry, crumbly mixture. Knead the semi-finished product until it becomes plastic.
Laying thermal insulation mortar	The resulting plastic solution is evenly distributed over the rough screed. The recommended thickness of the insulating layer is up to 100 mm. You can level it in any suitable way, for example, using a long rule. If you are insulating a large area, for convenience, using self-tapping screws/anchors, you can attach several guides to the floor, for example, from a profile for drywall or a wooden beam with a step corresponding to the length of the rule you are using.
Pouring the finishing leveling layer	5-7 days after applying the perlite solution (this is exactly how long it needs to harden), a finishing leveling screed is poured over the insulation. The most convenient and easy-to-use option is a modern ready-made self-leveling floor mixture. Reinforced mortars are available for sale, allowing you to create coatings with a layer of up to 8 cm or more. The developer can only prepare the mixture and apply it to the base in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Helpful advice! Before pouring the final leveling layer, the surface can be covered with waterproofing material and a reinforcing mesh can be laid, but, as practice shows, the structure feels great even without such inclusions. After the leveling layer has dried, you can finish the insulated floor, for example, tiling it with suitable tiles.

Video - Properties of perlite as insulation

Do-it-yourself insulation of the steam room ceiling

If, when insulating walls, many doubt whether it is necessary to insulate the steam room, then insulating the ceiling is necessary in any bathhouse, without exception. This part of the bathhouse is the most vulnerable place. Because, through the uninsulated ceiling of the steam room, hot air leaves the room in a short time and leaves, in addition, from high humidity beams and wooden floors suffer.

Insulation of the steam room ceiling with expanded clay

To solve the problem, our ancestors used ordinary soil mixed with sawdust or expanded clay. The material was used to cover the attic above the steam room and thereby reduce heat loss in the room. Today, the “old-fashioned” methods have lost their relevance with the advent of new materials and methods of insulation.

The ideal option for insulating the ceiling in a steam room is from the outside, i.e. from the attic side. You can use glass wool or basalt insulation. Where the thermal insulation is adjacent to the chimney pipe of the bathhouse, non-flammable insulation with fire-retardant mastic must be used. But in this article we will look in more detail at how to insulate the ceiling in a steam room from the inside.

How to insulate the ceiling in a steam room yourself

A modern way to insulate a steam room

For insulation, you can use mineral wool insulation. To do this, a frame is constructed on the inside of the ceiling, between which mineral wool slabs are inserted. Next, the entire ceiling is covered with a vapor barrier film; you can also use foil-coated isolon, which reflects heat towards the steam room.

The second, more reliable option for insulating the ceiling in a steam room with your own hands is to secure foam boards to the ceiling of the steam room from the inside using self-tapping screws. All seams are thoroughly foamed. For reliability, you can also cover the insulation with foil insulation, although penoplex does not absorb or allow moisture to pass through. The work ends with cladding.

Wall insulation.

Consumables for thermal insulation are selected depending on what the walls are made of

Considering the high thermal conductivity of brick and concrete, it is worth paying attention to the insulation of buildings made from them. Special attention. The main rule for thermal insulation of walls is the organization of a ventilation system

It is preferable to do the insulation of a steam room with your own hands according to the design method. This option is convenient in that the structure, if necessary (for example, for repairs), can be dismantled and reassembled.

Rules and sequence of work on thermal insulation:

So, insulating the ceiling, floor and walls in the steam room is a mandatory step in the construction of a bathhouse. To increase the effectiveness of thermal insulation, you should adhere to the following tips:

• provide windows in the bathhouse small sizes, because they account for a fairly large percentage of heat losses;
• install low doors with a large threshold in the steam room;
• the layout of the building should be based on taking into account possible heat losses and their minimization.

The right choice of insulation is the key to success

The modern market offers a huge number of insulation materials. They differ from each other not only in their technical characteristics, but also at cost. However, you should not rely on the latter when choosing the best option.

The choice of insulation must be made based on:

• Type of flooring. Concrete floors are insulated with penoplex, expanded clay or perlite. The wooden floor is made of penoplex, as this is the only material that does not absorb moisture at all. It is undesirable to lay insulation with a fiber or open cellular structure under it, for example, expanded clay, since in this case it will be necessary to equip a reinforced layer of waterproofing. Penoplex can be replaced with foamed polymers - ecowool or Aisinin foam. Being light in weight, they retain heat well. However, electric, infrared or water heating can be installed under both concrete and wooden floors.
• The premises in which it will be installed. Organic insulation is suitable only for use in rest rooms or in the dressing room, since even treatment with fire retardants does not make them resistant to high temperatures.
• Personal wishes for safety - insulation can be organic and of plant or animal origin (felt, tow, cellulose) and inorganic (foam plastic, mineral wool and glass wool). The latter are produced through the processing of minerals and are characterized by resistance to high temperatures. However, they are inferior in environmental friendliness to organic insulation.

In addition, you need to pay attention to specific gravity the insulation itself. Good insulation– one that does not create additional load on the foundation

Technology of floor insulation in bathhouses

There is only one principle: the location of the insulation between two rigid layers and its protection with insulating films. In wooden structures thermal insulation material located between the subfloor and the finished floor. In a concrete pie between the base and leveling elements poured from cement. But there are also specific differences.

How to insulate a wooden version?

The optimal time for installing a thermal insulation system is the construction period, but wooden floors that do not leak can be insulated afterward, having first completely removed the finishing flooring.

• The cranial blocks required for installing the subfloor are nailed to the bottom edge of the beams along the entire length on both sides.
• Low-grade boards, pre-cut to a size slightly smaller than the distance between adjacent beams, are laid on the skull beam.
• The result is the first layer of the cranial floor; waterproofing is laid on top of it - an essential element of a wooden structure. It is best if it is a waterproofing membrane with protection against steam penetration. It must be laid so that all beams are covered and the lower parts of the walls are covered along the perimeter by 20 cm. The material is usually attached to protruding structural elements with a stapler and the joints of individual sheets are sealed with vapor barrier tape.
• On top of the vapor barrier layer, either first the second row of the cranial floor is laid, and then the insulating material, or the insulation immediately.
• Depending on the type of insulation, another layer of insulation against steam and moisture is laid. An expensive membrane can be replaced by a layer of roofing felt with carefully glued bitumen mastic seams.
• Around the pipe intended for drainage, the empty space between it and the insulation is filled polyurethane foam.
• To complete the insulation, finish floor boards are laid, excess vapor barrier material is cut off, and a plinth is installed.

There should be a ventilation gap of 3-4 cm under the finished floor boards. This is necessary for drying the wood.

Insulation of a concrete structure

On concrete plates waterproofing is laid on the lower floors or on the subfloor poured over the ground. Instead of rolled material, you can use coating mastic applied in 3 layers. You can combine both roll and coating options in one bottle.

Mineral wool mats, extruded polystyrene foam or expanded clay, etc. are laid. The thickness of the layer is determined by the thermal properties of the material chosen for insulation.

A reinforcing mesh is placed above the insulation on special plastic or made from a mixture of alabaster and cement stands. The top screed is poured over the reinforcement. Further finishing actions depend on the wishes of the owner.

Specifics of insulation of different rooms

A lot of water is poured onto the floor, usually only when washing department. Floors in rest rooms and dressing rooms may not be equipped with waterproofing at all. The finishing flooring in steam rooms for additional insulation can not be dismantled, but the existing floor can be supplemented with another floor on joists, but with effective insulation. It is generally recommended to make the floor in the steam room 10 or 15 cm higher. By reducing the volume of the room using this method, the owner will be able to warm up the steam room faster.

We brought general recommendations, introducing how to insulate the floor in a bathhouse. They paint a generalized picture of the work being done and the final result. There will be no fundamental differences in any case, but the thickness of the insulation layers must be calculated based on real climatic conditions, and not on approximate average figures.

Stage 2 walls

If the steam room is insulated in wooden bath, then it should properly begin with the installation of inter-crown insulation, for which you can use jute, moss or felt.

Interventional insulation of log walls

But insulation of a steam room in a brick bathhouse is carried out only after its construction. This is my case too. It is noteworthy that the entire scope of work is actually very similar to that which was done in relation to the floor:

Work plan for insulating walls from the inside

1. Installation of waterproofing. Here I used ordinary plastic film, and not a membrane, since the dampness from the walls is still less than from the ground. Fastening completed construction stapler, hammering staples into the cement joints, and taping the joints with mounting tape;

Roll polyethylene film

1. Installation of a frame made of slats. The process is essentially the same as installing lags, only in this case, narrower slats are usually used, although their cross-section must still again exceed the thickness of the foam, and no slopes are required. The distance between them is also chosen to be 20 mm narrower than the polystyrene foam sections. But with fixation, things are a little more complicated:

• • I drilled the planks attached to the walls and applied markings on the brick through the resulting holes. Do the same with concrete, but in the case of wooden walls you can immediately start screwing in screws;
  • By marks made holes using a hammer drill, which were then filled with plastic dowels;
  • And just now I also screwed the slats themselves with self-tapping screws. By the way, waterproofing can be laid after installing the frame, fixing the film directly to it;

Installation wooden frame on walls made of aerated blocks

1. Laying insulation. Is it possible to insulate walls with penoplex, which is the same extruded polystyrene foam? Of course yes. For example, I did just that, laying it between the prepared planks;

Thermal insulation of the walls of the bath from aerated concrete from the inside with foam

1. Foil installation. As a vapor barrier, I used foil, which, in addition to protecting polystyrene foam from moisture, also returns the heat radiated in the steam room back, which significantly reduces the cost of heating it. For fastening, I again used a mounting stapler, and taped the joints with special foil adhesive tape;

Installation of foil on walls

1. Installation of lining. Everything here is the same with gender, no differences.

Installation of decorative lining on the walls of the steam room

Stage No. 3: ceiling

Everyone probably remembers from their school physics course that heated air rises. Consequently, the bulk of warm air masses accumulates precisely under the ceiling, and if it does not have high-quality thermal insulation, you will be faced with a cold steam room. Therefore, I insulated it both inside and outside:

1. My bathhouse has a small attic space, and instead of storing any equipment there, I covered his floor with expanded clay, which is also a good thermal insulation material;

A decent layer of expanded clay on the attic floor

1. Then, again, by analogy with the floor and walls, I covered the ceiling from the inside with a pair of plastic film;
2. Installed a sheathing of wooden slats;
3. Between the slats I placed slabs of extruded foam;
4. Covered everything with foil;

Foil on the ceiling

1. And she covered it with clapboard, completing the creation of the “thermos”.

Materials used for floor insulation

The most popular insulation materials are polystyrene foam and mineral wool.

When choosing a material, you should take into account the purpose of the room and the possible loads on the base.

Mineral wool

The use of mineral wool and glass wool for insulation concrete base very popular

If used this material, then it is important to create a waterproofing layer so that moisture does not get on the insulation. When moisture penetrates, the thermal insulation qualities are significantly reduced.

Mineral wool, produced in the form of slabs, has significant strength.

Advantages of mineral wool:

• fire safety, resistance to high temperatures;
• has vapor permeability;
• not subject to the formation of all kinds of microorganisms (fungus, mold, etc.).

Please note that the material is not water-repellent; use in rooms with high humidity is not recommended. If the insulation is wet, it begins to sag and quickly loses its original properties. The material is placed between the joists, therefore, no load should fall on it.

Mineral wool is divided into:

• stone;
• slag;
• glass

The type of cotton wool depends on the constituents of the material. During work, safety precautions should be observed. Avoid inhalation and skin contact

For precautionary purposes, masks, gloves, and special clothing are used.

Expanded polystyrene

Types of polystyrene foam, its application:

• Styrofoam;

This is the most economical insulation material after expanded clay. At the same time, it gives a high effect and is moisture resistant. Has some disadvantages:

• low strength of the material. During the work process, a reinforced cement screed is placed on top of the insulation;
• When wet foam freezes, it disintegrates, turns into small balls, and loses its properties;
• The material is moderately flammable and releases harmful substances when burned.

Extruded polystyrene foam looks like polystyrene foam, but lacks many of the disadvantages that foam plastic has.

Has a number of advantages:

• high strength characteristics;
• durable;
• waterproof;
• some categories of polystyrene foam are non-flammable (safety class NG)

Expanded clay

One of the ways to insulate a concrete base is expanded clay. Its characteristics are similar to min. cotton wool For proper insulation concrete bases must be moistened with expanded clay cement mortar. It is important to organize a slope of 10 degrees to arrange the drain.

Perlite

Perlite can serve as insulation for the bathhouse floor. This is a good option for a concrete base. The basis of such a heater is dusty sand mixed with a light cement mortar. The mixture is placed between two base screeds. Perlite is lightweight and has low thermal conductivity. Perlite is sand that has undergone an expansion process using a certain technology.

To complete the work you need:

• eliminate the possibility of drafts;
• ten liters of water should be mixed with two buckets of perlite;
• Add cement to the resulting mixture and mix everything well;
• a homogeneous mass should be obtained, into which another bucket of perlite and 0.5-1 liter of water are added;
• it is important to carefully mix the constituent components, until the moment when water begins to beat off, this indicates the readiness of the mixture - insulation;
• the concrete base is covered with a layer of insulation and allowed to dry completely;
• The drying process takes place for a week, then a concrete screed is made on top of the perlite insulation.

This thermal insulation will not rot over time and is resistant to environmental influences.

Insulation of a concrete floor is a crucial moment. The thickness of the insulation is determined based on the material used during installation. A reinforcing mesh is placed on top of the laid material. It has plastic or alabaster-cement supports; the resulting floor structure is filled with screed. This is the final stage of warming the floor of the bath.

To warm up the room faster, you need to prevent heat from escaping through the cold floor of the bathhouse.

Before warming the floor, the question arises - why? How practical is this? Concrete has poor heat retention properties. Heat loss must be prevented. To do this, you need to use materials with the highest thermal conductivity characteristics.

Installation of an insulating layer solves such problems:

• condensation does not form on the cold floor inside the room;
• the occurrence of microorganisms - mold and mildew, harmful to health, is prevented;
• reduced heating costs;
• a favorable indoor microclimate is created (optimal ratio of temperature and humidity).

Without insulation of the floor in the bathhouse, the microclimate will not be comfortable and the structure will be less durable.

4 We insulate the ceiling step by step instructions

To insulate the ceiling in the steam room, you need a completely different heat insulator - foil-clad mineral wool. It can withstand heating up to 700 degrees Celsius and can easily withstand the usual temperature in this steam room zone, which does not rise above 160-180 °C.

The finishing process itself begins with covering the ceiling with an antiseptic primer, which protects the boards from fungus and mold. The second step is to lay sheathing boards on the ceiling, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the insulation (usually 10 centimeters). The step of laying the boards is equal to the width of a standard strip of mineral wool.

The ceiling is insulated with foil mineral wool

The third step is laying the insulation. After completing the assembly of the sheathing, the space between the boards is filled with mineral wool, laid with foil outward (towards the floor). And all joints are carefully glued with foil tape. After completion of the work, there should be no gaps left on the ceiling.

The final step is installation on top of the sheathing finishing board(lining) or plywood panels. Moreover, in this case, it is necessary to read the description of the specification for the lining - options made of pine and spruce and other resinous trees are not suitable in this case. The ideal lining for a bathhouse is made from hard deciduous trees.

Types of insulation materials

Nowadays, new designs and materials are used in the construction of bathhouses. Concrete floor slabs or logs can serve as the base. In both cases, when insulating floors in a bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account the characteristic features of the base. The thermal insulation layer is selected in accordance with the technical characteristics of the base.

Foamed polystyrene is a rigid and very light material that consists of a polymer alloy of small closed granules. This insulation is universal and can be used for thermal insulation of concrete and wooden base. But most often it is used to insulate wooden floors. It does not absorb water that may seep through the wooden flooring. The insulation practically does not add weight to the base. To cut the material, you can use a regular stationery knife, and the waste will be insignificant.

It can also be used as insulation on the floor of a bathhouse.

Glass wool and mineral wool are mainly used for thermal insulation of concrete floors. When using such materials for wooden floors, it is necessary to put a reinforced layer of waterproofing on top of the insulation, since this material absorbs moisture well.

Expanded clay is used in the same way as mineral wool. These materials have different structures, but they practically do not differ in thermal properties. Wooden floors require enhanced waterproofing. When using expanded clay for insulation of concrete floors, some difficulties arise associated with organizing a 10° slope for drainage.

To maintain the required slope, the expanded clay, which is filled using guides, is spilled with a weak cement mortar. You can do it differently: mix expanded clay with cement and pour the insulating layer with this solution, and apply a cement screed on top of it.

Another type of insulation for bathhouse floors is Aisinin, a foam-like heat-insulating material that is used when laying floors on joists.

Boiler slag, foam concrete, and polypan can also be used for insulation. These materials are covered in a layer up to 30 cm, 25 cm, 10 cm thick, respectively. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer depends on the climate of the region in which the bathhouse is located.

Another type of insulation used for bath floors is perlite, which is dusty volcanic sand. To perform thermal insulation, it must be mixed with water and cement. The finished mixture is poured onto a concrete screed, and another layer of screed is placed on top. When solidified, the mixture will acquire a porous structure. The result is flooded floors in a bath with a layer of insulation.

Construction layout

In order to avoid the problem of how best to insulate the steam room , it is worth considering the location and layout of the bath, since compliance simple rules will help to avoid extra costs for thermal insulation of the room. So, competent planning design implies the following:

1. The dimensions of the building are determined based on the planned number of people who will be inside at the same time and the number interior spaces– dressing room, locker room, steam room, etc. As a rule, the area of ​​the dressing room is 4-6 m2, and the steam room – 6 m2.
2. The layout of the bath should be based on taking into account possible heat losses and their minimization. Thus, it is advisable to provide a locker room closer to the entrance to the room, which can prevent drafts and cold air from entering the steam room.
3. Considering options for how to properly insulate a steam room , It is advisable to make an entrance to the washing room or dressing room, which will be connected to the steam room by a vestibule.
4. It is advisable to make the doorway not too wide, but always with a high threshold.
5. The optimal shape for a steam room is a square, in the corner of which the stove is located and preferably closer to the door.

Floor insulation with expanded clay

The procedure for filling the thermal insulation layer will vary depending on the design of the floor of the bathhouse being equipped. There are few options:

• the floor is laid over logs installed on compacted soil;
• the flooring is made on top of logs placed on brick supports;

the structure is represented by a concrete screed or reinforced concrete slab ceilings

An example of floor insulation with expanded clay

Floor insulation with expanded clay

Choose your option, read the instructions specifically for it and get to work. The information is given in the table.

Table. Floor insulation with expanded clay

Floor construction type	Insulation procedure
Floor on joists on the ground	It is assumed that the joists have already been installed and all that remains is to lay layers of insulation to create the final flooring. If you are insulating an already used wooden floor, you must first remove the flooring (damaged boards are replaced with new ones), replace rotten joists and thoroughly compact the soil. The subsequent steps are similar for both cases: — waterproofing is laid on top of the compacted soil. You can put either plastic film, roofing felt or glassine. Waterproofing is placed both in the space between the joists and on top of them. Lay the sheets with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Tape the joints with construction tape. You can attach the insulation to the joists using construction stapler with staples or small nails; — a uniform layer of expanded clay is poured over the waterproofing. Further actions depend on whether expanded clay will be used as the only insulation, or whether a second thermal insulation layer, for example, mineral wool, is planned to be laid on top of it. If thermal insulation is performed exclusively with expanded clay, the order is as follows: — the selected vapor barrier material (preferably foil) is laid on top of a leveled layer of expanded clay with a thickness of 30 cm. The overlaps and fasteners are the same as when laying the material for waterproofing; - performed finishing flooring at the discretion of the developer. If expanded clay is used together with other insulating material, the procedure is as follows: — a vapor barrier material is placed on top of a layer of expanded clay 10-15 cm thick (the specific value is selected taking into account the planned thickness of the upper thermal insulation layer). The recommendations are similar to the previous case; — expanded polystyrene or mineral wool is laid on the vapor barrier. The functions of the frame for placing the slabs will be performed by the logs - select the width of the thermal insulation elements according to the size of the spaces between the logs (or simply fill the frame with the required parameters from timber). If the height of the logs is not enough, nail a beam on top of them at the height of the top insulation; — the thermal insulation is covered with a layer of hydro-vapor barrier. The further procedure of work remains at the discretion of the owner. So, for example, if a concrete screed is to be poured, a reinforcing mesh is first laid on the insulation. If the floor is wooden, bars are nailed to the joists for laying the boards.
Floor on joists on brick supports	In this case, the procedure will differ little from the option discussed above. Minor differences are present only in early stages insulation: — expanded clay is poured to the level of the logs laid on top of the brick supports; - cranial bars are nailed to the joists (the most commonly used option is 4x5 cm in size); - a rough flooring made of boards or wood boards is installed on top of the bars. Further actions are carried out similarly to the previous instructions.
Floor on concrete slab	The sequence of events will differ little from the instructions you have already reviewed: — the base is covered with a water vapor barrier; — expanded clay is poured; - backfill is covered with another layer of waterproofing. The further procedure is determined by the developer and depends on whether a concrete floor will be poured or a wooden structure will be installed.

Video - Floor insulation with expanded clay

Preparation of perlite insulation

To mix pulverized sand, you need to choose a room where all doors and windows can be closed while preparing the solution.

• The material is mixed in a deep container with water in a ratio of 2 to 1 until smooth.
• Slowly pour cement (grade M300 or higher) into the resulting solution, in a volume equal to half the measured amount of all components. An ordinary bucket can act as a measuring bucket.
• After that, you need to pour in an additional half a bucket of water. Each step must be accompanied by sufficient agitation. On finishing stage another half liter of water is added.

The resulting solution should differ from conventional plastic mixtures intended for smoothing out unevenness and finishing. The output should be a crumbly plastic mixture, which can be used to cover the bottom layer of concrete screed with a continuous 10 cm layer. The perlite insulation layer hardens after 5-6 days, after which you can begin pouring the top finishing layer of cement mortar. The waterproofing layer and reinforcing mesh are laid optionally before the finishing leveling layer; they are not mandatory.

And yet, it is important to choose the most suitable insulation for the floor in the bathhouse - which is better - opinions vary. According to numerous reviews from specialists and home craftsmen, polystyrene foam does its job best

It is easier to process and install, it is inexpensive, and the leftovers can always be used for other purposes.

Steam room ceiling insulation

Ceilings can be insulated with polystyrene foam, mineral wool, ecowool, expanded clay or straw with clay. The best option is mineral wool. The algorithm for insulating ceilings with mineral wool is no different from the work on arranging walls; there is no point in repeating it. Let's talk about another method using expanded clay. Insulation is carried out after the finishing of the steam room ceiling. Expanded clay thickness is at least twenty centimeters.

Insulation of a bathhouse ceiling using expanded clay

Important. Expanded clay is hygroscopic and can increase its weight several times when saturated with moisture.

This has a very negative effect on load-bearing surfaces; there are cases of deformation of the ceiling cladding. To avoid such an unpleasant phenomenon, carefully make hydro- and vapor barriers.

Step 1. Lay vapor barrier material on the ceiling. For these purposes, you can use both ordinary cheap polyethylene film and expensive modern non-woven materials.

Ceiling vapor barrier

Practical advice. We recommend taking film for several reasons. Firstly, there is cost. Secondly, the effectiveness is almost in no way inferior to the widely advertised nonwoven materials. Thirdly, it is possible to make the insulation completely continuous without joints. The film is sold in rolls; the manufacturing method makes it possible to obtain a continuous sleeve. The width of the roll can exceed three meters; in cross-section it will be six meters wide. This means that all individual rooms of the bathhouse can be insulated with a continuous film. Fourthly, there is a wide choice of material in thickness. For ceilings, it is better to buy a sleeve with a thickness of at least 35 microns.

Laying and installation of vapor barrier on the ceiling

Ceiling vapor barrier

Step 2. Gently evenly pour a layer of expanded clay on the film with a thickness of at least 20 cm. Cover with a film on top.

Sprinkled expanded clay

Expanded clay covered with vapor barrier

We need to say a few words about how expanded clay works. Among its shortcomings, none of the manufacturers mentions one rather significant one. Air passes through it almost without resistance, the large diameters of individual balls create significant free spaces between them. Since the air passes almost freely, the heat loss due to convection increases significantly and, accordingly, the effectiveness of thermal insulation deteriorates. After covering the expanded clay on top, efficiency improves - warm air does not have the opportunity to leave the isolation ward.

What is expanded clay

It's good that the expanded clay is covered, the ceilings retain heat better, but another danger appears. The material can absorb a large amount of moisture, wet insulation not only worsens the initial thermal conductivity, but also becomes much heavier. And this threatens to increase the load on all structural elements of the ceiling, there are risks of their deformation or complete violation of stability. Experienced builders recommend at least once a year to open the top film for several days to ventilate and dry expanded clay.

Work on insulation with straw and sawdust is almost no different from those described with expanded clay. But there are a few additional negative points. The first is that the weight of the insulating layer increases significantly. The second is liquid clay, it takes time and conditions for the water to dry. Third - the thickness of the ceiling boards must be at least 35 mm. Fourth - the low efficiency of this method of insulation.

Insulation of a wooden floor

Immediately before starting, some preparatory work should be carried out, namely:

• Carry out the dismantling of the flooring, remove all the logs, and if you plan to use them after insulation, we recommend numbering all the boards;
• All floorboards must be inspected for defects, chips, cracks and fungus. If this was found, it is better to replace the floorboard completely;

*Advice! When you lay the flooring back after all the manipulations, do not forget to leave between the top layer of insulation and wooden blocks a gap of 3-4 cm. This will prevent the deformation of the boards, and there will also be an additional layer of ventilation.

The structure of the wooden floor in the bath

If the bath was built on the ground with high level moisture, an ordinary roofing material is suitable as a waterproofing material. It must be laid so that the insulation layer does not have gaps and partially extends onto the walls.

Although wood is less durable than concrete, it is most often used to cover the floor in baths because of its environmental friendliness and high thermal insulation performance. The most popular trees for decking are:

*Important! If boards in the dressing room and other rooms are coated with an antiseptic to prevent wood fibers from developing fungal growths, then due to the high level of toxicity in the steam room itself, this should never be done. .

All layers of insulation in the section

The optimal choice for insulation would be a material with closed cells that do not allow moisture to pass through. The best option is polystyrene foam, as well as its modern analogues:

This material is lightweight, so it practically does not affect the weight of the entire wooden structure.

And so, the second step after dismantling the floor covering. To lay a layer of insulation, it is necessary to create support for the rough floor by extending the lower edges of the joists with bars smaller than the distance between the beams.

A layer of waterproofing, represented by a special membrane, is laid on the support of the subfloor, which simultaneously protects from moisture and steam. If the bathhouse is built on watery soil, then a layer of roofing material is laid, which must cover all the boards and rise onto the walls to a height of twenty centimeters around the perimeter of the steam room. It is better to seal the resulting seams with vapor barrier tape, you can buy it in a specialized store, the average price is 520 rubles per 10 meters (strip width 70mm), and seal the joints with a construction stapler.

Insulation of floors in the dressing room

Next, either another subfloor or insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing layer. The thickness of the total layer is usually 200-250 mm, depending on how much heat loss needs to be reduced and the financial capabilities of the owners.

Another layer of hydro- and vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulation. At this stage, the membrane can again be replaced with roofing felt, and the resulting seams can be sealed with mastic.

At the final stage, the space near the drain pipe is filled with foam. The finished floor is laid on top.

*Interesting! In the shower room, you don’t have to nail the finished floor to the base, but leave it as is. This will allow you to easily remove it from time to time and dry it from the moisture accumulated there.

Warm floor. His device

The invention of warm floors (liquid and air) is the merit of ancient civilizations. Nowadays, only a few improvements are being made due to technological progress (electric heating).

The essence of a warm floor is that under the finishing coating there is a distribution for heat carried by water, air or a heating element. This flooring is suitable for small rooms with low load-bearing loads.

1. A heat insulator is laid on the leveled surface of the subfloor (subfloor) - mineral wool mats, expanded polystyrene. To enhance the effect, aluminum foil is laid.
2. On reinforcing mesh pipes for heated water are laid with a certain freedom (“snail” or “snake”), no closer than 10 cm to the wall; when laying, the probability of deformation is taken into account.
3. Through the outlet manifold, the pipe system is connected to heating system. The connection points are fixed with a coupling and winding.
4. A leak test is carried out.
5. A rough screed is poured, and then a self-leveling screed.
6. An absorbent layer is placed under the finishing coating.
7. Facial finishing - tiles.

Homemade metal stove for a bath. Read about it here.

And here is an article about insulating a bathhouse ceiling with expanded clay.

In this section of our website http://ru-house.net/postrojki/banya/ you will find a lot of useful and interesting information about the bathhouse.

Working with a wooden base

The method by which insulation is installed in a steam room with a wooden floor is similar to the algorithm of actions described above. Read also: “How to make floor insulation in a bathhouse with your own hands - a guide from a master.”

The work is performed as follows:

1. Mineral wool is placed under the logs.
2. Rolled roofing felt is laid on it.
3. All wooden elements in the ceiling structure are treated with special antiseptic agents.
4. The subfloor is laid on roofing felt.
5. The work is completed by finishing the surface with a finishing floor covering.

After the insulation for the steam room is laid from the inside into the floor covering, the floor “pie” looks like this:

• foundation;
• wooden beams;
• vapor barrier material;
• lining and thermal insulation material;
• floor board.

Also, during the process of laying floors, care must be taken to create a high threshold under the front door. This is the most important functional measure aimed at protecting the steam room from cold air masses entering it. Naturally, complete preservation of water vapor indoors can only be ensured if door leaf fits as tightly as possible to the frame and threshold.

We must not forget that a separate area in the room must be allocated for the installation of the stove and the subsequent removal of the chimney. A separate foundation base with a height greater than that of the main foundation is mounted under the furnace.

When equipping the walls and ceiling, you need to take into account that a chimney will come out through one of the ceilings, for which you will have to cut a square hole and equip a frame in it. The rules require that the chimney from the stove be located at a distance of at least 20 centimeters from any wooden elements in the structure of the bathhouse. This hole is closed with a stainless steel sheet.

The article describes in detail the procedure for insulating walls, floors and ceilings in steam bath compartments

Also, the work can be entrusted to specialists who will take responsibility for all stages - from procurement necessary materials before installation and commissioning of the bath.

Insulation

So we got to the consideration of the main materials that can be used for floor insulation (which, by the way, applies not only to bathhouses, but also to private houses). In fact, insulating the floor with your own hands is not so difficult. The main thing is to approach this matter responsibly and choose the right material.

• Polystyrene. Differs in the low price, small weight and good rigidity. It is very convenient to cut it with a stationery knife, leaving a minimum of waste. Suitable for both wood and concrete floors.
• Styrofoam. It has low thermal conductivity (which is what is needed for insulation). Can be used to insulate floors of any design. Last time
• Glass wool (mineral wool). Ideal option for insulating wooden floors. They have excellent thermal insulation properties, but absorb moisture. That is why a powerful and reliable layer of waterproofing is required on top of them.
• Expanded clay. The most luxurious material for insulating concrete floors. Can serve as both a simple base (pour it in and that’s it) and as a filler concrete mixture for the first layer of pouring (I have a separate article about arranging concrete floors). The only significant disadvantages of this material can be considered its relatively high cost and delivery options (it’s not like bringing a couple of sheets of foam plastic on a Mikrik).

• Perlite. Another high-quality insulation for concrete floors. After mixing in appropriate proportions with water and cement, it forms an original expanded mixture, which, after pouring it between the base and the top screed, reliably stores heat and is highly durable.
• Penoplex. Absolutely moisture resistant. In fact, this is one of the modifications of polystyrene, obtained by foaming it and produced in the form of slabs. It has high strength and density, which makes it convenient to use for insulation of both concrete and wooden floors.
• Vermiculite. Not the most common material for insulation, which, however, does not deprive it of its advantages. Pressed slabs of this mineral not only retain heat well, but are also very resistant to open fire. That is why they are often used as a filler for fire-resistant doors. Accordingly, it will not be bad for a bath either. The only drawback is the cost, which the buyer may not really like.

Several alternative options

All of the above insulation materials have long been known and enjoy deserved popularity. But, of course, there are other options for floor insulation. They are mainly designed for concrete structures and are not suitable for wooden floors. But, nevertheless, it is simply necessary to mention them.

Firstly, (if you have such an opportunity) you can use ordinary slag from the boiler room. In fact, it can serve as a good alternative to expanded clay. Well, secondly, bottles can be successfully used to insulate a concrete floor. Both glass and plastic containers are suitable for this. The main thing is that they are tightly sealed. on this occasion.

Peculiarities

In the good old days, bathhouses were built from round wood and were not finished with insulating materials. An indicator of warmth was carefully selected wood, high-quality timber and tightly caulked grooves between the crowns. At that time, replacement of insulation was carried out using moss, tow or jute and caulking in two stages - when cutting the log house and after its shrinkage.

Many still prefer natural insulation materials , although it requires drying before use, it is an environmentally friendly material. This insulation process is very labor-intensive and time-consuming, requiring a certain skill and dexterity. Poorly caulked seams will allow heat to pass through and moisture will begin to accumulate in the grooves, which will contribute to the rotting of the wood and the rapid release of heat from the steam room.

Modern technologies have made it possible to find more than one alternative method of insulation.

Thanks to thermal insulation, well-insulated baths have a number of undeniable advantages:

• such a bath warms up longer, but also cools down for a long time;
• has the lowest heat consumption;
• it achieves the desired microclimate;
• there is a control over humidity;
• protected from the appearance of fungus and mold.

And in order to achieve such results from a bathhouse, you must first of all approach this process competently, although, at first glance, there is nothing complicated about it. For greater efficiency, the bathhouse is insulated both inside and outside. External placement of thermal insulation helps protect the material from which the bathhouse is made. But external insulation alone will not be enough. IN different rooms baths need to maintain a certain temperature and humidity level. For this purpose, internal insulation is provided, and suitable material is selected for each individual room.

Do-it-yourself insulation of steam room walls

High-quality thermal insulation of the walls of a steam room from the inside is a “pie” of three layers - vapor barrier, waterproofing and thermal insulation. Vapor barrier provides protection from the effects of steam and is a kind of “reflector” of heat, creating the effect of a “thermos” in the room.

Scheme for insulating the walls of a steam room in a bathhouse

For this purpose, the designed wooden sheathing lay the vapor barrier film using a construction stapler. If moisture penetrates into the insulation, this will lead to the formation of condensation and loss of heat-saving properties. All joints and edges must be overlapped and taped. Vapor barrier is installed from the side warm room, excluding moisture from entering the insulation.

The second layer of waterproofing eliminates the possibility of moisture ingress, protects against condensation and the formation of fungus and mold, preventing the process of rotting of the structure. The material used is polyethylene film or foil. Waterproofing is installed from the inside between the insulation and the walls in the steam room.

Third layer - insulation is placed between the vertical guides

When installing the guides (frame), please note that the width between them should be 1-1.5 cm less than the mineral wool slab so that the insulation fits tightly, without gaps. If you are using slab insulation, then make the width end-to-end, all cracks must be thoroughly foamed

Subtleties of insulation of individual bath rooms

Since the purpose and intensity of use of the bathhouse premises vary, many people wonder what kind of floor insulation is required in the dressing room. Since this is a rest room, the insulation in it does not need to be supplemented with waterproofing. Basically, water is poured directly onto the floor only in the washing room, where waterproofing is indispensable.

The steam room is used most intensively in the bath, where heat preservation is very important. But whether it is necessary to additionally insulate the floor in the steam room is something everyone decides for themselves. It is recommended to raise the floor in the steam room above the general level by 10-15 cm, which will make it possible to lay another layer of thermal insulation on the finished floor and lay an additional floor on joists. This approach will reduce heat loss and speed up the heating of the steam room.

Thus, we briefly outline the technique of insulating the floor in a bathhouse in this material, so that everyone can roughly imagine the expected volume and complexity of the work. It is worth noting that when calculating the amount of thermal insulation materials, you need to rely on the weather conditions at the location of the bathhouse.

Properties of materials used for arranging a steam room

Since ancient times, in order to insulate the steam room from the inside, only natural materials have been used. They were environmentally friendly, easy to use, and performed their main function well - heat preservation. But at the same time, such materials had a number of disadvantages, for example, rotting. Therefore, today they are popular for insulating a steam room or sauna. modern materials, which combine the majority positive qualities. Materials for insulating a Russian steam bath or, for example, a Finnish sauna must withstand high temperatures, high humidity, and not emit harmful substances and at the same time be aesthetic, otherwise all the charm of visiting this place will come to naught.

Aluminum foil is used to insulate buildings with high temperatures.

To insulate the steam room, the following materials may be required:

• aluminum foil or penoizol;
• polyethylene film;
• mineral wool or glass wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• reinforcing mesh;
• perlite;
• concrete solution;
• wooden slats for lathing.

To carry out insulation work you will need the following materials:

I would like to say a few words about the facing materials of the steam room. These materials are lining, board or wooden slats. What materials to use is up to everyone to decide for themselves. The tree is not just aesthetically pleasing, but also meets all the operational requirements of the steam room. Any wood will do hardwood low density: linden, maple, aspen, alder. Conifers trees will release resin when heated.

You can make your favorite bathhouse comfortable and safe, while extending its service life, by simply insulating its floors. This process only seems complicated and time-consuming. In fact, you can do all the work yourself. The main thing is to listen to the advice of builders and select the right materials.

The need to insulate the floor in the bathhouse

You can make your favorite bathhouse comfortable and safe, while extending its service life, by simply insulating its floors

Good thermal insulation helps solve several problems at once:

• reduce heat loss - due to a cold floor, up to 20% of the heat in the steam room is lost.
• increase the rate of room heating.
• extend the service life of the building - sudden temperature changes, high humidity and dampness lead to the appearance of rot on log wooden floors.
• make the bathhouse safe for health - a cold floor can provoke the development of colds, and rot and fungus can cause diseases of the respiratory system.

It is necessary to insulate the floor in all rooms, including the steam room, dressing room, washing room and rest room.

Insulation methods

When choosing insulation, it is important to remember that heat-insulating materials that are used in residential premises are not always suitable for baths. Simply because they cannot withstand operation in conditions of high humidity, as a result of which they can quickly lose their properties.

The modern market offers many different options, including budget ones. Among them, everyone can find something for themselves.

Perlite is a material that has the structure of sand, expanded using a special technology.

Perlite is mixed with cement and water to form a perlite concrete mixture, which is laid on a pre-laid concrete slab. After this, insulation work is suspended for a week until the perlite layer has completely dried.

Advantages of perlite:

• ease;
• low thermal conductivity;
• excellent vapor permeability, thanks to which all surfaces breathe and a natural microclimate is maintained in the room;
• environmentally friendly - it does not provoke allergies;
• heat and sound insulation – a layer of perlite 3 cm thick has the same thermal conductivity properties as a layer of brick 15 cm thick;
• fire resistance – perlite does not burn and can withstand temperatures from -200C to +845C;
• durability - the service life of this material is unlimited, due to which it retains its thermal conductivity properties for a long time.

It is necessary to work with perlite indoors. Otherwise, the material may fly apart under the influence of a draft.

The disadvantages of perlite include: high cost compared to other insulation materials, difficulties in finding it, since it is not available in all stores, and the need to follow the rules when working with it. Builders recommend moistening it a little, as it is very dusty.

Expanded clay not only performs thermal insulation functions, but also smoothes out existing unevenness

Expanded clay is made from clay. When fired at a temperature of 1400C, it forms granules with a porous structure. They are poured onto the prepared base, not only performing thermal insulation functions, but also smoothing out existing unevenness.

Manufacturers offer several types of expanded clay with granule sizes from 5 mm to 4 cm. To ensure better thermal insulation they can be mixed. Thus, small granules will evenly fill the empty space between large ones and make the thermal insulation layer dense and resistant to subsidence.

It is undesirable to use split or damaged expanded clay granules, as they have worse thermal insulation properties than whole ones.

Advantages of expanded clay:

• environmentally friendly - it is safe for human health;
• thermal insulation;
• sound insulation;
• ease;
• cheapness;
• ability to withstand heavy loads - up to 300 kg/m2.

The main disadvantage of expanded clay is its high moisture absorption. Therefore, before backfilling, you should take care of an additional layer of waterproofing and lay roofing felt, for example. The top layer of expanded clay is also covered with several layers of roofing material, on top of which a screed is made.

Foam plastic

Polystyrene foam is called ideal option for insulating baths, since its slabs have a cellular structure that is resistant to high humidity

Foam plastic is called an ideal option for insulating baths. Its slabs have a cellular structure that is resistant to high humidity. It absorbs no more than 1% of moisture by weight when completely immersed in water for 24 hours. And its benefits don't end there. Styrofoam:

• has excellent thermal conductivity;
• has a high density (up to 500 kg/m2);
• characterized by ease of installation;
• has a low cost.

In addition, it prevents steam from escaping outside the steam room and is suitable not only for floor insulation, but also for thermal insulation of walls.

It is not advisable to use polystyrene with low density for pouring concrete or cement-sand screed.

Like any other insulation, polystyrene foam has its drawbacks. They are revealed in weak mechanical strength, low resistance to paint and varnish materials based on nitrocellulose and the inability to pass air.

Other materials

Mineral wool has been successfully used to insulate concrete floors

Thermal insulation properties have:

• Penoplex, or extruded polystyrene foam - it is produced in the form of slabs with a thickness of 20-100 mm. In appearance, they resemble polystyrene foam, but differ from it in improved technical characteristics. The material is highly valued for its advantages: increased strength, durability, sound insulation, low specific gravity and high thermal insulation properties. In addition, penoplex does not absorb moisture at all, does not crumble during installation, does not rot, and does not dry out over time. Its slabs “sit” on glue or are fastened with dowels.

Penoplex is absolutely safe for health only when it is manufactured in accordance with existing standards. If they are damaged, styrene, a toxic substance, may remain in the slabs. You can minimize the risk of its exposure to humans by plastering the penoplex or tightly covering it with sheets of drywall. In this case, you need to ensure that there are no gaps left at the joints.

• Basalt insulation materials - mineral wool, glass wool, etc. - are used to insulate concrete floors. They are laid under wooden flooring only if there is a good waterproofing layer. Their advantages are low cost, low thermal conductivity, sound insulation, resistance to deformation and ultraviolet radiation, non-flammability and easy installation. Glass wool additionally protects the bathhouse from rodents and other pests, but when working with it it is necessary to use protective clothing, a respirator, gloves and goggles.

Builders recommend insulating only the floors of the washing room, dressing room and dressing room with glass wool. It is not advisable to use it in a steam room or fill openings near the stove with it. High temperatures can cause sintering of the fibers, as a result of which the material will lose its thermal insulation properties.

• Jute felt is an organic material that retains heat well, is durable and resistant to fungus.
• Empty bottles - plastic or glass. They create an air layer under the concrete, thereby retaining heat on its surface. The advantages of this method are low cost and ease of installation. In addition, a floor insulated with bottles is not afraid of temperature changes and does not become unusable due to soil heaving. It is done quite easily. Sand is poured and compacted onto the base under the concrete floor. A reinforced mesh is laid on top of it, on top of which the bottles are laid. Slightly warmed up and covered with tight lids, they should lie with their necks facing each other, filling all the free space. Subsequently, concrete will be poured onto them so that it covers them completely. After it has completely hardened, it is advisable to pour another layer of concrete, which will serve as the basis for a finishing screed or ceramic tiles. The only drawback similar method- in fragility. It is not intended for rooms where the floor will be subject to heavy loads, which is why it violates safety regulations. Nevertheless, it exists and is successfully used in artisanal construction.
  

  For achievement maximum effect plastic bottles, intended for floor insulation, it is advisable to fill with sawdust before use.

Work on insulating the floor in a bathhouse can also be done using other materials. The following have thermal insulation properties: construction felt impregnated with bitumen, foam concrete, expanded clay sand and gravel, polpan, boiler slag, isover, ursa, etc. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages and perfectly performs its assigned functions if used correctly.

If necessary, you can even replace modern insulation with clay mixed with earth or peat, moss, sawdust, pine shavings, dried oak leaves and other materials that were used in construction several decades ago.

The right choice of insulation is the key to success

The modern market offers a huge number of insulation materials. They differ from each other not only in their technical characteristics, but also in cost. However, you should not rely on the latter when choosing the best option.

The choice of insulation must be made based on:

• Type of flooring. Concrete floors are insulated with penoplex, expanded clay or perlite. The wooden floor is made of penoplex, as this is the only material that does not absorb moisture at all. It is undesirable to lay insulation with a fiber or open cellular structure under it, for example, expanded clay, since in this case it will be necessary to equip a reinforced layer of waterproofing. Penoplex can be replaced with foamed polymers - ecowool or Aisinin foam. Being light in weight, they retain heat well. However, electric, infrared or water heating can be installed under both concrete and wooden floors.
• The premises in which it will be installed. Organic insulation is suitable only for use in rest rooms or in the dressing room, since even treatment with fire retardants does not make them resistant to high temperatures.
• Personal wishes for safety - insulation can be organic and of plant or animal origin (felt, tow, cellulose) and inorganic (foam plastic, mineral wool and glass wool). The latter are produced through the processing of minerals and are characterized by resistance to high temperatures. However, they are inferior in environmental friendliness to organic insulation.

In addition, you need to pay attention to the specific gravity of the insulation itself. A good insulation is one that does not create additional load on the foundation.

Required materials and tools

Ruberoid can be used as a waterproofing material

The choice of materials for insulation and tools for working with them is purely individual. In the case of a wooden floor you will need:

• roofing felt, glassine or sheet foam, from which layers of vapor and waterproofing are formed;
• direct insulation - penoplex, ecowool or expanded clay;
• cement, water, sand for preparing a solution with expanded clay, if it will still be used as insulation.

To insulate a concrete floor you will need:

• coating waterproofing (rubber-bitumen mastic, etc.) and roll, for example, hydroglass insulation or roofing felt;
• insulation – polystyrene foam, penoplex, perlite or expanded clay;
• cement and sand for pouring screed or for mixing mortar with perlite.

Calculation required quantity materials in both cases is carried out based on the square footage of the room.

Tools:

• ruler;
• square;
• sharp knife or hacksaw;
• pencil;
• perforator;
• dowel-mushrooms.

Preparing rooms and surfaces

If for some reason the floor was not insulated during the construction stage, you will have to dismantle the old one flooring

To facilitate the assembly of the wooden floor in the future, dismantled boards and decorative elements needs to be numbered.

After dismantling, it is important to check the suitability of the rough beams (they make up the rough floor). Damaged ones must be replaced with new ones. To avoid rotting, they are treated with an antiseptic.

You cannot coat the material that will be used in the steam room with an antiseptic. When heated in this room, harmful chemical fumes will appear.

Insulation of the floor in different rooms of the bathhouse - steam room, wash room, relaxation room - is done in its own way. This is due to the different temperature conditions and humidity levels that are observed in them.

Step-by-step instructions for floor insulation

Builders have developed a technology for insulating wooden and concrete floors, which has been popular for many years. In rare cases, minor changes may be made to it based on the wishes of the owners.

Wood

After completing all preparatory work the foundation is being created

1. After all the preparatory work has been completed, the foundation is created. To do this, cranial bars are built onto the beams. A subfloor of marked and cut boards is laid on top of them. Their length should correspond to the distance between the beams.

It is extremely important to leave gaps between the boards themselves. They will avoid deformation due to temperature changes.

A waterproofing layer - roofing material or glassine - is laid on the resulting base. You need to make sure that it covers all the beams and goes 20 cm onto the walls around the entire perimeter. To ensure tightness, an overlap of 10 cm is made, and the joints are connected with vapor barrier tape.

2. At this stage, you can proceed directly to laying the insulation on top of the waterproofing material or laying a second subfloor, which will serve as an additional basis for the insulation.

There are no norms regulating the thickness of the insulation layer. It can reach 25 cm if it is necessary to minimize heat loss in the bathhouse by insulating the floor.

3. Laying waterproofing on the insulation.

4. Laying the finished floor. Boards must be thoroughly dried. Initially, they do not need to be fixed, but only laid. After that, the bath is dried again, and the boards are finally nailed. At this stage, the protruding edges of the waterproofing are trimmed.

When laying the finished floor, you need to ensure that there is a gap of 4 cm between it and the waterproofing layer itself. He will provide optimal conditions for drying wet wood.

Builders recommend making the floor in the bathhouse from hardwood - poplar, aspen, oak, pine or fir. Not only an antiseptic or a pre-made gap between the floor and waterproofing, but also a removable floor can protect them from rotting. It is set up in a steam room or wash room. To do this, the boards are not nailed, but only carefully laid so that after they get wet they can be replaced with dry ones.

Another option for quickly drying a wooden floor is a special technique designed for this.

Concrete

The technology for insulating a concrete floor differs from the technology for insulating a wooden floor.

The technology for insulating a concrete floor differs from insulating a wooden one. And its service life exceeds the service life of a wooden one by 4 times. Thus, concrete can reduce the cost of re-flooring in the future.

Warming stages:

1. Laying a concrete slab on the foundation, if it is missing.
2. Laying a waterproofing material, such as roofing felt, on top of the slab. It can be replaced with rubber-bitumen mastic, however, in this case it is better to coat the surface with it at least 3 times.
3. Laying insulation - glass wool or polystyrene foam. The joints between the plates are taped with construction tape. Instead of inorganic insulation, you can use expanded clay or perlite.

When insulating with perlite, a perlite concrete solution is prepared from water and perlite, which are mixed in a 1:2 ratio. The resulting mixture is mixed well until it shrinks completely, after which cement is introduced into it in small parts. Its ratio to the total volume should not exceed 0.5. After thorough mixing, another 1 part of perlite and 0.5 parts of water are added to the solution. Do not add more water to it, even if it seems too dry. Only thorough kneading will help correct the situation and give it the required elasticity. The prepared solution is laid out on a concrete base in a layer of 10 cm. It hardens within 6-7 days.

When insulating with expanded clay, it is pre-prepared cement mortar that is poured over concrete. After it has completely hardened, the expanded clay itself is filled with a layer at least 8 cm thick. A new layer of concrete is poured on top of it. It must be reinforced with reinforcement or reinforced mesh and wait until the surface has completely hardened, after which insulation work can continue.

4. Reinforced mesh is also spread over polystyrene foam or glass wool. A rough screed is poured on top of it in a layer of 5-8 cm, which is then leveled with a needle roller.

5. After that, fit ceramic tile or a finishing screed is poured.

By insulating the floor in the dressing room, you can do without waterproofing, since there is no large accumulation of moisture in this room. Therefore, here you can lay a layer of insulation between the subfloor and the finished floor. When insulating the floor in the washroom and steam room, you can not dismantle the finishing flooring, but lay materials on top of it. This will allow you to raise the floor by at least 15 cm, thereby reducing the area of ​​the room and speeding up the process of warming it up.

Application of the "Warm Floor" system

Liquid or air heated floors, which were known in ancient times, are also widely popular.

Liquid or air heated floors, which were known in ancient times, are also widely popular. Their arrangement involves laying wiring for heat transferred by air, water or a heating element under the finished floor. They are installed in small areas with a small load-bearing load.

Stages of work:

1. Leveling the subfloor.
2. Laying a heat insulator - polystyrene foam or mineral wool in order to avoid excessive consumption of thermal energy. For maximum effect you can use aluminum foil. At this stage, it is advisable to lay a damper tape around the entire perimeter. It will prevent the walls from coming into contact with the mortar and compensate for the expansion of concrete when hardening.
3. Laying reinforced mesh over the heat insulator.
4. Laying pipes in a “snake” or “snail” manner in places that require heating. Between them, as well as between pipes and walls, a distance of 10 cm should be left.
5. Connecting pipes to the heating system through manifolds. The elements need to be connected using couplings and windings.
6. Carrying out tests for maximum power pressure and eliminating identified leaks.
7. Pouring the subfloor.

Considering that in the baths built on screw piles, a wooden floor is being installed, the technology for insulating it is practically no different from the technology for insulating a log wooden floor

Considering that in bathhouses built on screw piles, a wooden floor is installed, the technology for its insulation is practically no different from the technology for insulating a log wooden floor.

1. The pile heads are tied with screw beams, which will later serve as a support for the floor covering.
2. A layer of waterproofing - roofing felt or mastic - is laid on the existing foundation made of wooden beams.
3. Inside the contour of the upper part of the foundation - the grillage - load-bearing beams are installed on which the subfloor will be laid. In this case, you need to maintain a step of 30-40 cm.
4. A skull beam is attached to the underside of the beams, on top of which the subfloor is laid.
5. A layer of waterproofing and insulation itself are laid on top of the floor. On top it is covered with a film or waterproofing material.
6. Installation of a finished wooden floor.

Solving the issue of insulating the second floor in the bathhouse

The floors on the second floor of the baths are insulated using standard technology

IN modern baths rest rooms are located on the second floor. The floors in them are insulated using standard technology. Vapor barrier, insulation, waterproofing and flooring are laid on the ceiling, which now serves as a kind of foundation. It is best to use foil material as a vapor barrier. It not only perfectly performs its functions, but also reflects heat. It is better to make the insulation layer at least 20 cm.

It is advisable to leave gaps between the foil and internal lining, layers of waterproofing and insulation, waterproofing and flooring.

Warming the floor in the bath is troublesome and time-consuming. However, it is fully rewarded with comfort, safety, warmth, coziness and a special atmosphere that begins to reign in it after its completion.

Therefore, do not deny yourself the pleasure of enjoying them! Moreover, provided that materials are selected correctly and technology is followed, they will also extend the service life of the building and help save on construction costs. repair work further.

About a dozen types of baths have survived to this day, differing in the number of required premises, method of operation, and main purpose. The most popular are Finnish and Russian.

According to the method of exposure to water and high temperatures baths are divided into:

• aquatic (Japanese);
• cheese-air (Russian);
• dry air (Finnish).

Modern bath became an entertainment facility, a kind of room for leisure or for lovers of brooms and steam rooms, which affected the structural and technological features its erection.

Traditional dressing rooms, washrooms and steam rooms began to be supplemented with relaxation rooms, swimming pools, gyms and even billiard rooms.

We can do it ourselves, with our own hands.

If we are not talking about an ambitious project, but about a simple village bathhouse for a summer cottage or country house, then with today’s possibilities in the construction market, it can be built with your own hands.

This process is labor-intensive, but feasible, taking into account modern materials and technologies.

Let’s assume that you did just that, erected a free-standing log house according to a traditional design, of which there are so many “walking around” on the Internet.

How to reliably protect this room from severe winter frosts middle zone, if the cold spreads from bottom to top, from frozen ground along the walls? There is only one answer - to insulate the floors. How to insulate the floor in the bath?

To choose best option insulation, you need to evaluate the type of bath floor:

• clay floors (do not provide insulation);
• earthen floors (do not provide insulation);
• wooden floors (leaking and non-leaking);
• concrete floors;
• warm water;
• and the principle of obtaining and maintaining heat in a Russian bath.

Features of the Russian bath

Progress has also affected the device modern traditional sauna: stones for heating and generating steam are placed in the stove itself and heated by a hidden electric heater.

Pour over hot stones cold water, steam room lovers receive hot steam, which reaches 100 degrees in the upper part of the room, and a stable 50 degrees in the lower part. This temperature must be maintained for the entire duration of the steam procedure.

How to insulate a wooden floor in a bathhouse?

• Modern baths are placed on a foundation, which requires the construction of a rough and finished floor.
• The finished floor (impermeable) is made with a slope towards the drain;
• The finished floor (leaky), laid on joists with a gap of 3 cm at the walls, requires air drying - the convenience is questionable.
• Level groundwater determines the type of vapor or waterproofing agent used: if low, it can be a vapor barrier membrane; if high - glassine or roofing felt.
• The waterproofing should, covering the entire surface of the subfloor, protrude upward along the surface of the wall by 15 cm, overlap, and fasten with tape or a stapler.
• The best insulation is polystyrene foam. It actually does not absorb moisture. Plates of this material are laid between the floor joists so that a 2-centimeter ventilation gap is formed on top. Perlite or expanded clay can also be used as insulation.
• The next layer of waterproofing protects the insulation from water ingress.
• The finished floor is laid from well-fitted planed tongue-and-groove boards and impregnated with a special water-repellent and antiseptic impregnation.
• The edges of the waterproofing are cut above the installed baseboards.

In the following diagrams you will see other options for floor insulation.

And here is a video about how to insulate a bathhouse floor with your own hands.

Insulation of a concrete floor in a bathhouse

1. The subfloor is represented by a rough screed.
2. As a waterproofing agent, a thick polyethylene film with a rise of 5 cm along the wall or a layer bitumen coating(rolled material is held together when overlapping).
3. On top of the waterproofing, frames are made of wood, which are fastened with self-tapping screws on dowel plugs to the rough screed.
4. Polystyrene foam is placed into the frame structure and fixed with mortar.
5. The entire structure is reinforced with reinforcing mesh and concreted with a thickness of 2 cm.
6. A self-leveling mixture 5-8 cm thick completes the floor installation. A needle roller removes air from the mixture.
7. The floor covering can be wooden or tiled, with a wooden grid for the feet.

Time-tested material

As shown by many years practical experience, in the competition of thermal insulators Expanded clay wins in many respects:

• expanded clay base - natural material, clay;
• during the firing process, it acquires the structure of porous, but closed with a sintered crust, granules;
• it is fire resistant;
• its 15 cm layer is superior in thermal protection to 25 cm of wood, 60 cm of foam concrete, 1 m of brick;
• withstands loads up to 300 kg/sq.m. m;
• cheap.

Ability to absorb moisture, as a disadvantage, is compensated by a special technology for laying the floor, which makes it moisture resistant even for a bathhouse.

Sequence of work when insulating the floor in a bathhouse with expanded clay, the same as with other insulation materials:

• a thick layer of plastic film is spread on the rough screed, extending onto the wall;
• beacons are placed at the finishing level;
• expanded clay (preferably a mixture of two fractions - gravel and sand, without splitting the granules) is filled in using the “jamming” method; (also, the method of insulation with expanded clay directly in bags, with pre-made holes, is used);
• cement “milk” is held together upper layer leveled expanded clay backfill;
• if necessary, lay a reinforcing mesh;
• a screed of 3-4 cm is poured onto the surface of the expanded clay, gripped with cement; (concrete will dry in 28 days, polymer - 7);
• Air bubbles are removed from concrete using a special roller.

Warm floor. His device

The invention of warm floors (liquid and air) is the merit of ancient civilizations. Nowadays, only a few improvements are being made due to technological progress (electric heating).

The essence of a warm floor is that under the finishing coating there is a distribution for heat carried by water, air or a heating element. This flooring is suitable for small rooms with low load-bearing loads.

1. A heat insulator is laid on the leveled surface of the subfloor (subfloor) - mineral wool mats, expanded polystyrene. To enhance the effect, aluminum foil is laid.
2. Pipes for heated water are laid (“snail” or “snake”) on the reinforcing mesh with a certain freedom, no closer than 10 cm to the wall; when laying, the probability of deformation is taken into account.
3. Through the outlet manifold, the pipe system is connected to the heating system. The connection points are fixed with a coupling and winding.
4. A leak test is carried out.
5. A rough screed is poured, and then a self-leveling screed.
6. An absorbent layer is placed under the finishing coating.
7. Facial finishing - tiles.

Insulation of the floor in the dressing room

Stability depends on the preservation of heat in this room. temperature regime soap and steam rooms. The entrance to the dressing room is equipped with a vestibule in order to preserve heat. A thoughtful arrangement of doors in the bathhouse will also work for this purpose. Small in size door frame, a high threshold is an essential condition for heat conservation.

Waiting room does not interact with water to the same extent as the main rooms of the bathhouse, and therefore does not require serious efforts to waterproof the subfloor.

Just put it between layers of glassine thermal insulation layer, in the form of mineral wool, and cover it all with a tongue and groove board. As finishing coating You can use laminate.

Our ancestors were sure that heat from the room, including the bathhouse, escaped through the ceiling and walls; at that time no one was involved in insulating the floor. The floor was cold, water flowed through the holes in it.

Cold bath floors are only suitable for southern regions. In places with colder climates, the concrete floor in the bathhouse should be properly insulated. What to do if the bathhouse has a cold floor? How to correct the situation and make a warm floor in the bathhouse?

Warm air moves upward, but a significant portion passes through the floor. If there is a need to insulate a concrete floor in a bathhouse, then it is important to know:

• how it is carried out (stages of work);
• what materials are most effective in arranging insulation.

You should choose a material that has good thermal insulation and at the same time it will be inexpensive.

The process of insulating a concrete floor in a bathhouse is necessary for favorable conditions of use. Due to sudden changes in temperature, the human body is exposed to negative effects. To speed up the heating of the room, you should create thermal insulation for the concrete floor in the bathhouse. In order for insulation to be effective, it is important to familiarize yourself with the most commonly used materials for these purposes, as well as the installation process.

Thermal insulation must be laid on a dry concrete base. The drainage of water with a concrete base occurs due to the slope, which is constructed towards the drain hole. It is important to carry out all floor installation work correctly in order to avoid troubles such as getting the insulation wet. If heat-insulating material is flooded, then reworking the floor cannot be avoided.

When installing, it is better to use modern materials; they are very practical and durable. It is necessary to take into account the features of the subfloor. For example, if the bathhouse is on stilts, then the drainage is carried out through a special trench, which goes into sewer pipe and then the water goes into the ground. To avoid unpleasant odor the structure should be equipped check valve and an adapter, it will be the connecting link between the ladder and the sewer pipe.

The most popular heaters are polystyrene foam, mineral wool. When choosing a material, you should take into account the purpose of the room and the possible loads on the base.

Mineral wool

The use of mineral wool and glass wool for insulating concrete bases is very popular. If this material is used, it is important to create a waterproofing layer so that moisture does not get on the insulation. With the penetration of moisture, the thermal insulation qualities are significantly reduced.

Mineral wool, produced in the form of slabs, has significant strength.

Advantages of mineral wool:

• fire safety, resistance to high temperatures;
• has vapor permeability;
• not subject to the formation of all kinds of microorganisms (fungus, mold, etc.).

Please note that the material is not water-repellent; use in rooms with high humidity is not recommended. If the insulation is wet, it begins to sag and quickly loses its original properties. The material is placed between the joists, therefore, no load should fall on it.

Mineral wool is divided into:

• stone;
• slag;
• glass

The type of cotton wool depends on the constituents of the material. During work, safety precautions should be observed. Avoid inhalation on skin. For precautionary purposes, masks, gloves, and special clothing are used.

Expanded polystyrene

Types of polystyrene foam, its application:

• Styrofoam;

This is the most economical insulation material after expanded clay. At the same time, it gives a high effect and is moisture resistant. Has some disadvantages:

• low strength of the material. During the work process, a reinforced cement screed is placed on top of the insulation;
• When wet foam freezes, it disintegrates, turns into small balls, and loses its properties;
• The material is moderately flammable and releases harmful substances when burned.

Extruded polystyrene foam looks like polystyrene foam, but lacks many of the disadvantages that foam plastic has.

Has a number of advantages:

• high strength characteristics;
• durable;
• waterproof;
• some categories of polystyrene foam are non-flammable (safety class NG)

Expanded clay

One of the ways to insulate a concrete base is expanded clay. Its characteristics are similar to min. cotton wool To properly insulate a concrete base, it is necessary to moisten the expanded clay with cement mortar. It is important to organize a slope of 10 degrees to arrange the drain.

Perlite

Perlite can serve as a heater for the floor of the bath. This is a good option for a concrete base. The basis of such a heater is dusty sand mixed with a light cement mortar. The mixture is placed between two base screeds. Perlite is lightweight and has low thermal conductivity. Perlite is sand that has undergone a swelling process using a certain technology.

To complete the work you need:

• eliminate the possibility of drafts;
• ten liters of water should be mixed with two buckets of perlite;
• Add cement to the resulting mixture and mix everything well;
• a homogeneous mass should be obtained, into which another bucket of perlite and 0.5-1 liter of water are added;
• it is important to thoroughly mix the components until the water begins to flow out, this indicates the readiness of the mixture - the insulation;
• the concrete base is covered with a layer of insulation and allowed to dry completely;
• The drying process takes place for a week, then a concrete screed is made on top of the perlite insulation.

This thermal insulation will not rot over time and is resistant to environmental influences.

Insulation of a concrete floor is a crucial moment. The thickness of the insulation is determined based on the material used during installation. A reinforcing mesh is placed on top of the laid material. It has plastic or alabaster-cement supports; the resulting floor structure is filled with screed. This is the final stage of warming the floor of the bath.

To warm up the room faster, you need to prevent heat from escaping through the cold floor of the bathhouse.

Before warming the floor, the question arises - why? How practical is this? Concrete has poor heat retention properties. Heat loss must be prevented. To do this, you need to use materials with the highest thermal conductivity characteristics.

Installation of an insulating layer solves such problems:

• condensation does not form on the cold floor inside the room;
• prevents the occurrence of microorganisms - mold and mildew, harmful to health;
• reduced heating costs;
• a favorable indoor microclimate is created (optimal ratio of temperature and humidity).

Without insulation of the floor in the bathhouse, the microclimate will not be comfortable and the structure will be less durable.

Concrete base insulation options

The concrete floor in the bathhouse can be insulated indoors, or from below the ceiling in the underground. Basically, the first method is used and insulation is made from above. Why is this method preferable? What are the pros and cons of the options?

When floor insulation is carried out in the underground:

• the insulation option provides high efficiency;
• freezing of the structure is prevented in winter;
• condensation may appear from the subfloor;
• does not affect the height of the room;
• indoors, the floor has a solid base without insulation.

Please note that this method of insulation from the coldest side is the most correct. If the subfloor is very low, the work will be difficult or even impossible. In this case, insulation is carried out indoors, on top of the ceiling.

The sequence of insulating a concrete floor from the inside of the room

Carrying out insulation inside has its own characteristics:

• the dew point is located inside the mounted structure;
• the room does not have frost protection;
• with this method it is necessary to create waterproofing on the cold side;
• reinforced cement screed is poured on top of the insulation;
• the insulating layer significantly reduces the height of the bathhouse room.

There are materials that have high strength and make it possible not to reinforce the screed.

Carrying out installation

To install polystyrene foam insulation you will need:

• knife for cutting insulation;
• container with polyurethane foam;
• glue;
• foil-coated polyethylene is required for insulation pairs;
• metal construction tape (for gluing polyethylene sheets).

How to properly insulate a concrete bathhouse floor?

It is important to prepare the floor for insulation. Carry out the cleaning procedure to remove dirt and dust. The material is placed in a constructed wooden or metal carcass. A cement-sand screed is poured on top.

Necessary tools for working with mineral wool:

• tool for cutting material;
• tape for gluing joints of film or membrane material;
• polyethylene film for waterproofing;
• thermal insulating membrane for vapor barrier.

The process of insulating the floor in a bathhouse is very responsible; it requires a competent approach in choosing the material, as well as in observing technological process. It is faster, easier, and more effective to insulate with polystyrene foam than with a mineral slab. The cost of the material will pay off in the process of comfortable and durable operation.

Each bathhouse room performs its own function. For example, it is most important where people directly wash themselves. In other rooms, for example in a room, for relaxation or it is not so important.

When carrying out work in an already built bathhouse, ideal solution There will be a creation on top of the existing base, a layer of insulating material. The insulation is inserted between the built-in joists.

In the steam room, the floor should be higher for the fastest heating of the air than smaller room steam room, the faster it heats up. Before carrying out work, the required materials are calculated. Warming of the bath should be carried out under favorable weather conditions. Under such circumstances, the work will be argued and brings satisfaction.

Previously, the floor was always made of a leaky type and, of course, was not insulated in any way. The walls and ceiling were insulated, since the heated air always moves up. But, despite this, a considerable amount of heat goes out into the street and through the floor. Significant temperature difference between the upper part of the steam room and the cold floor washing room, where a person goes after steaming procedures, have a negative effect on the body.

To prevent heat loss and prevent the penetration of cold air from the street, as well as to ensure that the bathhouse warms up faster, it is necessary to properly organize floor insulation. How to insulate the floor in the bath with your own hands will be discussed further.

Features of the structure of the floors

Insulation is carried out for floors with a non-leaking wooden base and concrete structures. Water is drained into them due to a slight slope of the floor towards the drain hole or gutter.

Types of insulation materials

Nowadays, new designs and materials are used in the construction of bathhouses. Concrete floor slabs or logs can serve as the base. In both cases, when insulating floors in a bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account the characteristic features of the base. The thermal insulation layer is selected in accordance with the technical characteristics of the base.

Foamed polystyrene is a rigid and very light material that consists of a polymer alloy of small closed granules. This insulation is universal and can be used for thermal insulation of concrete and wooden bases. But most often it is used to insulate wooden floors. It does not absorb water that may seep through the wooden flooring. The insulation practically does not add weight to the base. To cut the material, you can use a regular stationery knife, and the waste will be insignificant.

It can also be used as insulation on the floor of a bathhouse.

Glass wool and mineral wool are mainly used for thermal insulation of concrete floors. When using such materials for wooden floors, it is necessary to put a reinforced layer of waterproofing on top of the insulation, since this material absorbs moisture well.

Expanded clay is used in the same way as mineral wool. These materials have different structures, but they practically do not differ in thermal properties. Wooden floors require enhanced waterproofing. When using expanded clay for insulation of concrete floors, some difficulties arise associated with organizing a 10° slope for drainage.

To maintain the required slope, the expanded clay, which is filled using guides, is spilled with a weak cement mortar. You can do it differently: mix expanded clay with cement and pour the insulating layer with this solution, and apply a cement screed on top of it.

Another type of insulation for bathhouse floors is Aisinin, a foam-like heat-insulating material that is used when laying floors on joists.

Boiler slag, foam concrete, and polypan can also be used for insulation. These materials are covered in a layer up to 30 cm, 25 cm, 10 cm thick, respectively. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer depends on the climate of the region in which the bathhouse is located.

Another type of insulation used for bath floors is perlite, which is dusty volcanic sand. To perform thermal insulation, it must be mixed with water and cement. The finished mixture is poured onto a concrete screed, and another layer of screed is placed on top. When solidified, the mixture will acquire a porous structure. The result is flooded floors in a bath with a layer of insulation.

Preparation of perlite insulation

Perlite is a very light material and will fly apart in a slight breeze, so the mixture should be prepared in a draft-free room. During cooking, windows and doors in the room must be closed.

The mixture is prepared as follows:

1. Carefully pour 2 parts of the material into a deep container, then mix the perlite with 1 part of water and allow the mixture to settle completely.
2. Next, 1/2 of cement grade M300 and higher is added. Everything mixes very well.
3. Add 1/2 of the water and mix again.
4. Finally, add another 0.5 liters of water.

The finished mixture should be dry and crumbly. It must be kneaded until it becomes plastic. Then the resulting solution is evenly distributed over the bottom concrete screed. The layer thickness should be no more than 10 cm. The insulation will completely harden in 5-6 days. Then a leveling screed is poured onto it. Before this you can lay down waterproofing material and lay the reinforcing mesh, but this is not necessary.

A considerable number of types of materials were given, so you can see the photo to know what they look like. And naturally, with such diversity, people wonder what is the best insulation for the floor in a bathhouse to choose. According to the majority, in terms of technological and technical indicators, polystyrene foam is the leader among insulation materials. It installs quickly, and you can purchase just enough to cover the entire floor area.

Insulation technology

Now let's move on to consider the question of how to insulate a wooden floor in a bathhouse and a concrete structure.

In fact, insulation is carried out in the same way in both cases and consists of the following: the insulation is located between two rigid layers and is protected by insulating films. If the floor is wooden, then the thermal insulation material is placed between the rough and finishing flooring.

In the case of a concrete floor, between the first and leveling layers. There are also characteristic differences. Next, we’ll look at how to properly insulate the floor in a bathhouse in each case.

Insulation of a wooden floor

Thermal insulation is best done during the construction phase. Wooden floors of a non-leaking structure can be insulated later, but it will be necessary to completely remove the finishing flooring.

The insulation of a wooden floor in a bathhouse is carried out as follows:

1. To install the subfloor, you need to nail the skull blocks. They are attached to the bottom edge of the beams on both sides along the entire length.
2. Low quality boards are taken. Their length should correspond to the distance between the beams. The boards are laid on the skull beam.
3. Waterproofing is laid over the resulting subfloor. The best option there will be a membrane with hydro- and vapor barrier properties. It must be laid in such a way that all beams are covered and its edges extend 20 cm onto the walls. The material is fixed to the beams using a stapler. The joints are glued together with vapor barrier tape.
4. There are two options for further action: insulation material or first another row of subfloor and insulation on it.
5. Depending on the type of insulation, another layer of hydro- and vapor barrier is laid. Instead of a membrane, you can use roofing material, the seams of which must be carefully taped with bitumen mastic.
6. Gap between drain pipe and insulation should be filled with polyurethane foam.
7. Finish flooring boards are laid, excess insulating material should be trimmed.
8. Plinth installed.

There should be a gap of 3-4 cm between the finished floor boards and the insulation for air circulation. This ensures drying of the wood.

Insulation of concrete floor

Now let's look at how to insulate a concrete floor in a bathhouse.

To do this you need to do the following:

1. Waterproofing is spread over concrete floor slabs or a layer of concrete that is poured onto the ground. Both rolled materials and coating mastic (applied in three layers) are suitable. Waterproofing can be done using both of these options simultaneously.
2. Then insulation material is laid, for example, expanded clay, glass wool, extruded polystyrene foam. The thickness of the insulating layer depends on the thermal characteristics of the selected material.
3. Stands made of plastic or made of a mixture of alabaster and cement are installed. Reinforcing mesh is laid on them.
4. The screed is poured.
5. Next comes the finishing touches.

Features of insulation of various rooms

Impact large quantity The floor is usually exposed to water only in the washing room. The rest room and dressing room do not require mandatory waterproofing. To additionally insulate the floor in the steam room, it is not necessary to disassemble it.

Here are general information about how to insulate the floor in a bathhouse. However, the thickness of the insulation layers must be calculated taking into account not average indicators, but actual climatic conditions.