Temperature background and high level moisture in the bath favorable conditions for the settlement of all kinds of harmful microorganisms. Among them are bacteria, viruses, mold fungi that destroy wood and the pulmonary system of lovers of bath procedures. Properly made ventilation in the bath will get rid of the listed negativity. How to make it?
We will tell you all about the rules for organizing ventilation systems designed to dry wet rooms. The use of reliable information will help to develop and implement an impeccable ventilation project. The data submitted for consideration are based on building codes and practical experience builders.
The article describes in detail the methods of construction of ventilation systems designed to remove water suspended in the air, drying finishes and supporting structures. The materials and components required for their arrangement are described. Effective assistance in mastering a difficult topic will be provided by photo applications and video guides.
The bath needs regular air renewal. This is a safety requirement for people taking bath procedures. Also, proper ventilation can extend the service life to 50 years or more.
The type of ventilation system is selected individually and depends on the location, size of the structure, and materials used in construction.
Bath ventilation schemes
All existing systems ventilation according to the principle of action are divided into natural, forced and combined. In the first case, ventilation occurs due to the arbitrary entry of street air, its mixing in the room and the displacement of the exhaust through the holes in a natural way.
Image Gallery
If there is insulation, then a counter-lattice is required to provide ventilation between the insulation and other layers of the roof. It is also used for ventilation of wall structures so that condensation does not form in the thickness of the layers.
To dry the floors, burst ventilation is used or a ventilated floor is equipped. This option should be considered at the construction stage. To do this, a rough floor is performed, carefully pouring concrete at a slope, and the finishing floor is laid from boards. hardwood leaving small gaps between them. This floor provides quick removal excess moisture.
It is important to properly organize ventilation in all areas of the bath. Particular attention should be paid to the washing / shower room, where high humidity threatens the formation of fungus and mold
All bath rooms need ventilation, including:
- washing room;
- dressing room / rest room;
- other premises.
To arrange proper ventilation, you have to choose the optimal scheme that fits the requirements and conditions of a particular bath. It is important to remember that fresh air must be supplied to all rooms and also removed from all.
They build ventilation ducts, make supply and exhaust openings in the walls or mount a whole system of air ducts - everything is very individual
Experienced craftsmen do not recommend laying complex ventilation duct systems, preferring to dwell on the very simple solution suitable for a particular case. The rule here is the simpler the better. Yes, and at a price a simple option will cost several times cheaper.
Image Gallery
Ventilation in the bath is not only comfort, but also an urgent need. It is needed both during and after bath procedures:
- In the process, it is important so that no one gets burned. The danger of carbon monoxide poisoning is always present - it is the result of incomplete combustion of fuel. Therefore, ventilation is necessary for the safety of people in the bath.
- Besides air that is inhaled and exhaled becomes "waste", and it must be removed, replacing it with a new one, with a greater proportion of oxygen.
- regulate the temperature, monitoring the condition of people, you can also use ventilation, especially when you need to do it urgently.
- Any stove runs on oxygen (combustion is oxidation), so it needs ventilation. And with a competent device, you can also get fuel economy.
- And, finally, drying after, on which the durability of the structure, especially its wooden parts, directly depends. Ventilation can be good prevention of fungus and decay.
At the same time, bath ventilation is quite complex and diverse in design. Of course, the question can be reduced to financial investments, but in fact, you just need a good ventilation specialist who will find the best solution in each case. We will consider all the possibilities and features of the device.
The ventilation system in the bath: what can it be?
Ventilation systems in baths are divided at once according to several parameters:
- forced or natural;
- exhaust, supply or supply and exhaust;
- local or public.
Let us explain that the forced one differs from the natural one by the presence of fans that forcibly drive air in or out, the local one differs from the general exchange one in its local character, for example, the chimney above the stove is local ventilation, and the vents are part of the general exchange.
As for the supply, exhaust and their combinations, these are indications of which air is directed where: the exhaust drives the exhaust air out, the supply air drives the fresh air in, and their combination creates a balanced air exchange inside the room.
These are general terms for any ventilation, but our task is to consider a bathhouse that has its own specifics. We advise you to familiarize yourself with (8 types) along the way.
Useful video
Watch a short video, as one of the options for organizing ventilation in the bath:
Natural ventilation in the bath
It works on the principles of physics, which say that heating makes air lighter and causes it to rise. And an increase in the volume of cold air accelerates the movement of hot air. Knowing about this property, you can not install any devices at all, there are enough ventilation holes, the location of which will make some of them supply air, and others - exhaust.
And in the bath there is a stove, and this is a very favorable circumstance for the direction of air circulation. If the natural ventilation inlet is located near the floor next to the blower, then the stove itself will draw in fresh air, without any fan. Also, traction is improved by raising the finished floor just above the hole under the firebox.
The exhaust opening is usually made on the side that is opposite the wall with the supply opening, but this is not the only option.
Forced ventilation
If fans are placed in the same holes, then you can not be afraid of calmness or other weather conditions that adversely affect the air circulation in the bath.
In principle, there is no big difference between natural and forced ventilation in the circuit itself, it is only a matter of which holes the fans are in. Because you can not put them everywhere, reinforcing only the exhaust or only the inflow. But by creating a large difference between the inflow and outflow, we change the pressure in the room. This is easily detected by the way the door slams. The task is to create a balance between outflow and inflow, and the air during bath procedures should circulate slowly, without causing a draft. And when drying, a draft is only good.
IMPORTANT! The direction in which the fan drives the air depends on the location of its blades, so it is important to ensure that there is no exhaust fan in the supply opening and vice versa.
Bath ventilation device: principles of operation
Bath ventilation can be conditionally divided into permanently functioning (roofing, foundation, wall) and periodically functioning, during bathing procedures and stove operation. Both are parts of a single ventilation system, which is laid during construction.
The principle of operation of the ventilation system: displacement of exhaust air with fresh air. In the most primitive case, two holes are enough for this, but in practice, flow directions also matter, so the number of supply and exhaust holes can be increased, and they themselves are equipped with dampers, which are a means of controlling flows, their volumes and speed.
Regardless of the location, the air inlets are always lower than the exhaust ones. Sometimes air flow is provided through the blinds at the bottom of the door to the steam room. But there is one rule: Where does the air come from, where should it go?. If we take from the premises, we need to return not to the street, but also to the premises. Otherwise it won't work.
The calculation of the area of ventilation windows is quite simple: we must proceed from the fact that each cubic meter of room volume needs a window with an area of 24 cm². Windows in no case are made directly opposite each other at the same height.
- When the bath warms up, the vents in the foundation close, the dampers in the steam room move.
- During soaring, the windows open slightly as needed.
- After completion of the procedures, the bath is ventilated entirely.
Also prepared to help you (10+ different schemes).
Bastu ventilation in the bath
Bastu-type ventilation, named after convection Swedish baths, is gaining more and more popularity in Russian baths. It is easy to make and highly effective.
The air flow under the furnace is carried out using ventilation pipe from the street. In this case, a damper is required that would block it.
For air outflow, a box is mounted, which starts 20-30 cm from the floor and goes outside. The location of the box is diagonally from the furnace. The material is best stainless steel. The box must also overlap 100%.
So, it works as follows: if a certain volume enters the room, then the corresponding volume will be pushed out from there if there is an exit. A working oven actively draws cold air from supply duct. Part of it is used in combustion (and leaves through the chimney), and part rises, heating up along the way from the stove. The excess volume in parallel begins to leave through the box, which takes air from the floor. Therefore, fresh heated air is in the breathing zone, and the exhaust is at the bottom and leaves.
Video
See how Bastu is explained and done in these videos:
Bastu ventilation is “turned on” and “turned off” by manipulating the valves. At the same time, the stove must work, because it is she who is the heat pump responsible for air circulation. If the stove goes out, the bastu ventilation in the bath will not work.
Bastu ventilation is ideally used in the sauna, where you need to change the air 6-8 times per hour. But in the Russian bath, the conditions are somewhat different, and although you can put the bass in it, there are restrictions on its use.
Bastu ventilation in a Russian bath
Russian bath is not too much heat and plenty of steam. Under such conditions bastu ventilation in a Russian bath should not be “turned on” while soaring.
But you can safely start it at the very beginning, at the stage of warming up the steam room. In this case, the heating time will increase, but it will be uniform. If you leave the valves open, the bastu will dry out and overheat the steam room. You can try to "turn on" the bass on last step soaring - the air will be light, hot, you can breathe freely. Great ending to a run.
Bastu in the Russian bath useful for drying after procedures- she copes with this perfectly and there will be no smells, no mold with such drying.
Bath floor ventilation
The floor in the bath needs to be completely dried after the procedures. The first condition for this will be the organization of the correct flow, with a slope that will divert water into the sewer. Of course, there are several floor options.
For pouring (wet) floors, ventilation is especially important. Therefore, the gaps between the boards, reaching a width of up to 1 cm, are needed not only to drain water, but also to dry the boards. And the opening of the air in the foundation will help in this, which we will discuss below.
A dry floor does not imply gaps between the boards, because it is mounted from a tongue-and-groove board. So, the principle of its ventilation is somewhat different. It will be necessary to dry from above by means of salvo ventilation (this means opening all windows and doors) and the system that is provided in the bath, for example, forced supply and exhaust.
Useful video
Look at what dampness can lead to on a dry floor, even if it is covered with yacht varnish:
The ventilation riser in the washing room will be discussed below, but it also affects the ventilation of the floor.
And the floor is well blown during the operation of the furnace, if (as already mentioned), raise its level above the blower, and leave small gaps between the boards in the floor itself.
Bath foundation ventilation
Actually, everything starts with it, because it is mounted when laying the foundation. To do this, scraps of asbestos-cement pipes are taken, filled with sand and in this form are laid among the reinforcement, fastened with a knitting wire between the rods at a height of 5 to 12 cm above the ground. After stripping, the sand is removed.
There can be two such holes in total, laid on opposite sides of the base. However, in reality, one must take into account whole line various factors, on which both the number of holes and their diameter ultimately depend. By the way, the usual diameter is 11 cm.
Useful video
See what the lack of ventilation for floor and foundation ventilation can lead to:
Before designing ventilation, take into account:
- remoteness of the bath from the reservoir;
- location (on a hill or in a lowland);
- surrounded by other buildings on all sides;
- wind rose of this section;
- bath area.
It is clear that if the bath in the lowland or around solid buildings, more holes must be made, and even from all sides. You can also increase the diameter, but put a grille-blinds or damper.
CAREFULLY! Rodents can get into unprotected vents, so it is recommended to also tighten them with a metal mesh.
Holes provided with plugs are usually left closed during procedures, but they are opened to dry.
Ventilation of different rooms of the bath:
Due to differences in temperature and humidity conditions of each bath rooms, ventilation in them is organized differently.
sinks
The washing compartment is the wettest, so it is recommended to equip it with a ventilation riser, which is located in the corner, under the floor. This is an asbestos-cement pipe, which is then brought to the roof and supplied with a deflector from above. Ventilation in the sink occurs due to the pressure difference between the room and the end of the pipe above the roof, the air tends to the outside, carrying excess moisture with it.
The reason why you have to bring it to the roof is simple: if moist air is immediately driven out into the street, then the wall where this hole will be located will quickly deteriorate from the outside.
steam rooms
attic
Attic ventilation is a special song. It is done at the stage of installation of the roof.
1- ceiling 2- spotlights 3- roof ridge
IMPORTANT! It is not true that for attic ventilation it is enough for a window on the pediment. These windows will not replace the supply and exhaust system in the roof.
Supply holes are made under the roof canopy (between the roof sheathing and the upper part of the wall, where the rafters rest on the Mauerplate), and exhaust holes are made on the ridge. There should also be openings on the gables, but they are small and very high.
It is also important to take into account the ratio between the area of supply and exhaust openings on one side and the total area of \u200b\u200bthe attic. It is optimal that the first be 1/500 of the second. The ratio between the area of supply and exhaust is not 50 to 50, exhaust should be 10-15% larger in area than supply.
This system is suitable for those baths in which the attic is cold. And there are also baths with attics. There, ventilation is also done at a time when the roof is still open from the attic.
For ventilation of the under-roof space (between the roofing material and the membrane), either natural or forced ventilation can be used. But for the functioning of both, aerators and spotlights are needed.
Aerators are installed either on the area of the roof slope, or on the ridge (these are the most effective). They serve for extraction. And the soffits are responsible for the flow of air. These are siding panels for sheathing roof overhangs, some of which must be perforated. The ratio of the area of the ventilation holes and the ventilated area is the same as mentioned above 1/500.
IMPORTANT! The efficiency of aerators will be higher if you install only ordinary or only ridge aerators.
Fans for the under-roof space are used as supply fans. Special attention placed on the wiring so that it does not cause a fire.
baths in the basement or basement of the house
Part of the owners country houses takes a basement under the bath or ground floor. Such an arrangement of a hot and humid room makes special demands on ventilation, on which the durability of the whole house now rests.
Note that the redevelopment of the former residential or utility premises includes the redevelopment of ventilation. In general, it is more expensive than the bath included in the project of a house under construction.
One way or another, you need do not forget about the ventilation gap between the walls and the insulation. This will protect against damage to the insulation by condensate. But the moisture in the air corridor must also go somewhere. Therefore, for basement and basement baths, professionally made supply and exhaust ventilation is recommended, and it is better not natural, but forced. Both are accompanied by the installation of a basement deflector.
The location of the basement ventilation depends on the specifics of the project and will not be given here. It is also possible to install a special dehumidifier.
A good option would be to choose bastu ventilation - it's not so expensive, but very effective. The bastu device was mentioned above.
shower
If there is a shower cabin or an open shower in the bath, it should be installed nearby forced ventilation which will speed up the drying process.
If we assume that the air flow is provided by the already existing supply openings located in the washing room and other rooms, then you can put the fan only on the exhaust opening, which is located near the shower. (You can do the same if there is a bathroom in the bath.)
dressing room
The dressing room suffers from condensation due to the temperature difference between it and the hot rooms of the bath. That's why ventilation in it is necessary in the same way as everywhere else in the bath. One air is located at the bottom, the other at the top. The lower one is responsible for the inflow of air, the upper - for its outflow. Installation of forced ventilation is not prohibited. In addition, you can ventilate the dressing room with the help of a door and (if any) a window.
In contact with
Room ventilation standards are prescribed in SNiP 41–01–2003, but they are not entirely applicable to baths. Why? Sanitary authorities regulate the frequency of air changes in the premises to ensure a favorable microclimate in terms of temperature and humidity. These indicators in the steam room cannot be called favorable for a long stay of a person, they are rather stressful. In addition, not a single room considered in building codes and regulations requires the fastest possible drying and the fastest warm-up. Ventilation in the bath should maintain the microclimate in the premises under the given conditions with a significant increase in humidity and temperature, and at the same time completely eliminate the appearance of drafts.
Another feature of the ventilation in the bath. Its functioning should be independent of external weather conditions, and the actual performance should allow for rapid changes in humidity and temperature. In addition, the technical capabilities of ventilation should allow you to respond as quickly as possible to changes in the microclimate in the steam room, and for this they must have increased power compared to conventional ventilation systems.
Natural ventilation does not allow achieving such results, it is of low power and is highly dependent on weather conditions. With the aim of guaranteed security required modes, forced ventilation is used - air is supplied / removed by special fans.
It's pretty interest Ask. We have already mentioned that there are no state regulations for ventilating baths. This is due to the fact that the requirements for steam rooms are very individual, some want to steam in very humid and hot rooms, others prefer moderate values of humidity and air temperature. So different meanings microclimates must be installed in the same room using the same ventilation system. Since generally accepted standards do not exist (and cannot exist), then each user of the steam room should be able to “customize” them to fit their requirements. And forced ventilation of the bath will help to do this.
Practice shows that for a quick change in humidity and temperature indicators, six air exchanges per hour are sufficient. From these conditions, the technical characteristics of the fans should be selected. If, for example, the volume of a steam room is 2 m (width)×3 m (length)×2 m (height) = 12 m3, then the fan power should be 12×6=72 m3/h. The dimensions of the air inlet and outlet openings should be selected taking into account the dimensions of the fans. The designers have already provided for this parameter, the greater the fan power, the more installation space is required for it, the larger the inlet or outlet should be.
Prices for heat-resistant fans
heat resistant exhaust fans
How to choose a fan
All household fans are divided into two large groups:
Choose a fan at the place of optimal location and power, it is better to make a margin for performance - long work electric motors with maximum load causes their accelerated failure.
It is highly desirable that the fan has several speeds of rotation or, possibly, smooth adjustment of the shaft speed. This will allow you to quickly achieve the optimal microclimate in the steam room. The switch or control panel must be accessible to people in the steam room.
Pay attention to the degree of protection of the case, a very important criterion. The air in the steam room is humid and hot, and these are the most unfavorable conditions for the operation of electric motors. According to European standards, the enclosure must have at least IP44 protection. It is advisable not to install a fan at the air outlet ( exhaust ventilation), with the same efficiency it will work at the inlet (supply ventilation). At the air outlet from the steam room, the operating conditions of the fans are the most difficult, there are high risks of breakdowns due to exceeding the critical values of the heating temperature of the insulation of the stator and rotor windings.
The fan grill must have louvers that direct the air flow down or disperse it in different directions. If the blinds can change their position - very well, it is always possible to change the direction of the air flow depending on the prevailing circumstances in the steam room.
Important. All work on connecting devices must be carried out with unquestioning observance of the PUE (Rules for the installation of electrical equipment). electrical wiring baths must have independent grounding.
Prices for centrifugal fans
Bahcivan radial fan
Where to locate the inlet / outlet of forced ventilation
The main condition is that the holes should be located only in those places that guarantee efficient work ventilation and prevent drafts. Next, you can pay attention to architectural features rooms and design. Do not install fans beautiful places”, if there will be no practical benefit from such an installation for creating a microclimate.
Exit holes. They are made at a distance of 10 ÷ 20 centimeters from the ceiling or in the ceiling. If the hole is under the ceiling, then the air is expelled through the duct in the wall to the street. In our opinion - best option. If the hole is in the ceiling, then the air from the steam room enters under the roof. Advantage - not violated appearance facade walls baths. Disadvantage - high risk of waterlogging truss system baths, and this can cause very negative consequences. It is possible to remove moist hot air through the roof covering, but this is costly and increases the risk of leaks on the roof.
Entrance holes. There are three options.
- First. If there is a drain floor in the bath, then there is no need to make inlets, the air passes through the cracks of the floor covering.
- Second. It is allowed to make an inlet at the bottom of the steam room doors, holes are cut out in the canvas and a decorative grill is inserted.
- Third. The inlet is made in the wall of the bath at a height of about 10 centimeters from the floor. To avoid the appearance of unpleasant drafts, it is recommended to place them behind the stove, but you can choose any other place for yourself, the main thing is that cold air does not immediately fall on those taking bath procedures.
When choosing inlet/outlet openings, the power of the fans must also be taken into account. The more productivity they have, the farther they should be located from people.
And one more piece of advice. Ventilation copes with its tasks much more efficiently if the inlet and outlet are located diagonally across the room or on opposite walls. There is no universal description of the scheme of movement of air flows in the steam room, there are too many individual factors rooms that change their movement.
You must ensure that the air moves as evenly as possible throughout the volume of the room. Thus, it will be possible to avoid the formation of “dead” zones unfavorable for washing, increase the uniformity of air heating, accelerate the heating of the room and improve the removal of exhaust air.
What types of forced ventilation baths
Unlike natural ventilation, forced ventilation can be of three types.
- Supply. Air is forced into the room, removal occurs naturally through the outlets. For a bath, this is the most acceptable option. The cost is available to all developers, quickly mounted, does not require large losses of time for periodic maintenance work.
- Exhaust. Forced air removal, natural intake through inlets. It is not recommended for a steam room due to the extremely difficult operating conditions of the fans. In terms of efficiency, it is not inferior to the supply one.
- Supply and exhaust. Both intake and removal of air is forced. It is used only in large buildings with many rooms. for various purposes. Quite complex and expensive ventilation systems are installed only in exclusive baths.
Let us consider in more detail each type of forced ventilation of the bath.
Forced ventilation
The electric fan is installed in the inlet located near the floor. Air under pressure is injected into the steam room, due to the appearance overpressure spent exits through the outlet. Inlet air is most often located near the floor; to reduce the risk of drafts, they are made behind the stove. Of course, when choosing a specific location for the hole, all the features of the steam room should be taken into account.
Important. The distance between the stove and the hole should completely exclude overheating electric fan And power cables nutrition. If design features do not allow you to safely place the fan behind the stove, then you should choose a different location - under the shelves, on the opposite side of the door, etc. The main condition is that cold air should not create inconvenience for those washing. Try not to place the fan in places where water may splash during washing.
Many builders quite deservedly consider the supply option of bath ventilation to be the most optimal solution. We fully agree with this opinion and recommend it to you for use. Another plus of this method of forced ventilation is versatility. Forced ventilation can be done not only in the steam room, but also in all other rooms of the bath.
Prices for a valve for supply ventilation
valve for forced ventilation
The fundamental difference is that the fan removes the exhaust air from the steam room, fresh air enters naturally. To increase efficiency, the exhaust duct should be placed under the ceiling. But the installation of an electric fan in these places is associated with great difficulties; for electric motors, operation in conditions of high humidity and temperature is extremely undesirable. If you decide to put the engine at the top, then carefully select the degree of protection of the case. Don't skimp on this one cash. It is much more profitable to immediately purchase an expensive, but reliable and well-protected fan, than to replace it several times later.
It is allowed to install an exhaust fan and much lower than the ceiling level. This position slightly improves the operating conditions of the engine, but significantly reduces the efficiency of ventilation. Make a decision yourself, consider your needs, opportunities, desires and features of the room.
Forced supply and exhaust ventilation
It has many options, forced removal and intake can be installed in each room, or in some there is a natural flow of air masses. For this, special holes are made or air passes freely through the existing slots. We have already mentioned that this type of forced ventilation in baths is very rarely installed.
Before starting work, you need to consider the location of the supply and exhaust ducts, decide on the power and type of fans. It is necessary to purchase moisture and heat-resistant equipment, low noise, with the ability to adjust the speed of rotation of the blades. Modern increases the pressure of movement and the power of the air flow while reducing the number of revolutions. Due to this, noise is significantly reduced and the durability of the fan operation is increased.
Ventilation ducts can be made of galvanized sheet steel or plastic.
Plastics are preferable, in their own way physical characteristics fully comply difficult conditions operation. Ventilation grilles must match the parameters of the fans, the blinds must break the powerful air flow in different directions or direct it to the floor. If it is possible to independently adjust the position of the blinds - excellent, the possibilities of the ventilation system increase significantly, and the comfort of staying in the premises increases.
Prices for ventilation ducts
ventilation ducts
Prices for PVC ventilation ducts
PVC ventilation ducts
The installation algorithm for forced ventilation of the bath
Step 1. Choose one of existing methods forced ventilation, draw up a diagram of the location of the opening for supply / removal of air in the steam room. For example, here are some popular air hole patterns. Hand over the markings on the walls, once again carefully evaluate the correctness of the chosen solution. Purchase equipment, prepare tools for installation.
Step 2. Make holes for ventilation ducts. Keep in mind that it is not so easy to make through holes in a finished log house. The thickness of the bars can reach 150 mm, add to this size the thickness of the inner outer skin. The total length of the channel in the wall can be 30 centimeters or more, it is difficult to work with a chisel in a long and narrow channel. It is very good if you thought about installing ventilation even at the stage of bath construction, but this rarely happens.
How to make ventilation ducts
There are several ways to make channels, it all depends on what kind of experience you have and what geometry the hole should be in the end. Square holes are harder to make. You will have to drill holes first large diameter over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe duct, and then chip the tree with a chisel. Such works may take half a day or more for only one channel. If the wall of the bath is thick, then it is better to make a hole in turn on both sides of the bath.
For drilling round holes you can use a wood cutter (metal crown). It is easier to work with it, the only drawback is the diameter limitation. On sale, you can rarely find a crown with a diameter of more than 120 mm. You should work slowly with a crown; after drilling the contour, you need to remove the wooden jumpers with a chisel. In order to reduce the load on the electric tool, the side planes of the crown should be lubricated with machine oil.
Step 3 If you are using an axial fan, then it is simply inserted into the channel. Keep in mind that the dimensions of the duct must be larger than the dimensions of the fan. Take a set of measures to prevent moisture from entering the crowns of the log house. To do this, use different kinds hydrobarriers, all "uncomfortable" and hard-to-reach slots can be sealed with mounting foam. Excess foam after cooling should be cut off with a sharp knife; it should not reduce the conditional diameter of the channel.
If, for technical or other reasons, it is necessary to use a radial fan for forced ventilation of the bath, then a special place must be prepared for its connection. Protect the installation site from atmospheric precipitation, bring pipelines of appropriate diameters and profiles to it.
Step 4 Connect installed equipment To electrical network. The wiring diagram depends on the type of equipment and specifications electric motor.
Photo - fan mount
Step 5 Install a fan switch. It must be in an easily accessible place. During production electrical work follow the safety regulations.
To increase the comfort of using the steam room, you can connect the fan to the temperature control unit. Electronics in automatic mode will turn on / off forced ventilation depending on the set temperature values. The second option for automating the ventilation system is used to ventilate the steam room after the bath. The fan in this case works from the timer.
How to check the performance of forced ventilation
We strongly advise you to check the efficiency of forced ventilation even before using the steam room. It is not difficult technically and does not take much time. If problems are found, you will have the time and opportunity to fix them. How to check ventilation?
Bring a smoldering firebrand to the inlet vent and see where and at what speed the air flow moves. Bring the smoking firebrand closer / further away from the hole, in this way achieve maximum visibility of smoke. Air must move through the steam room according to the optimal schemes provided. Pay attention to what obstacles change its direction, whether they can be removed and moved to another place in the steam room.
After you have verified the movement of air masses, make sure that the ventilation is working. Remove the smoldering firebrand from the steam room and find out the time during which the ventilation will completely remove the smoke from the room. In the steam room, his smell should not be felt. This time should not exceed three or four minutes. Conduct experiments on various fan modes, achieve the greatest efficiency of the system.
Don't try to over complicate forced ventilation, remember that what harder design, the greater the likelihood of breakdowns occurring somewhere. This rule applies not only to ventilation, but to absolutely all engineering and architectural structures.
It is advisable to provide ventilation holes even during the assembly of the log house. If it didn’t work out, then make holes before facing the outer and internal walls. And this does not work out - get ready for long physical labor. It will be especially difficult to work under the ceiling, cramped conditions do not allow you to take comfortable postures while working with the tool.
Properly equipped ventilation is the key to a comfortable stay in the steam room
Video - Types of forced ventilation
Video - Ventilation in the steam room
Ventilation is needed in all rooms, the rules for its installation are prescribed in SNiP 41-01-2003. But they concern only residential, public and industrial premises that create favorable conditions for humans. At the same time, it is taken into account that people stay in such premises for a long period of time and for everyone it is necessary to create the same standard indicators of the microclimate and air quality.
Baths have completely different tasks, they create a stressful microclimate for the body - high temperatures (in Russian baths up to + 60 ° C, in saunas over + 100 ° C) and high humidity (up to 90%). Moreover, in one room, the temperature and humidity indicators should vary widely, depending on the wishes of the washers. Changing the microclimate parameters should be carried out as soon as possible, and the achieved values should be maintained for a relatively long period of time. And another very important difference between the bath and ordinary rooms. If, secondly, people have the opportunity to “protect themselves” from temporary inconveniences with clothes, then this is impossible to do in the baths.
Illustration of the microclimate in a steam room - high temperature and hot steam
Based on these features, the ventilation of baths must perform individual tasks, and this affects the principles of its design and features of operation. Ventilation in the bath can be natural and forced, each type has its own characteristics, characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. In this article, we will talk in detail about only one type of ventilation - natural.
We have already found out the tasks of bath ventilation and how it differs from the ventilation of other rooms, now it's time to tell you how they can be achieved. The methods depend on the architectural features of the room and your preferences.
First you need to remember the lessons of physics from school. Ventilation of premises occurs due to the difference in air density in the street and in the room. Warm air has less weight and rises, cold air is heavier and sinks down, so-called convection occurs. Accordingly, in order for the room to be ventilated, hot air must be able to leave, and cold air must be allowed to enter, inlet and outlet openings are needed. These can be ordinary cracks in windows and doors or specially made ventilation holes.
On the Internet, you can find statements that these holes must necessarily have the same dimensions, otherwise the ventilation does not work or “blowing in the wrong direction”. Only those who skipped classes can say that. The ratio of the size of the inlet and outlet of air does not affect the performance of ventilation.
Square ventilation window
If the outlet, for example, can release only 1 m3 of warm air per hour, then exactly the same amount will get into the cold room, no matter what the dimensions of the inlet, and vice versa. And the effect of reverse thrust is obtained in the case of wind backwater or in the complete absence of fresh air. In the first case, a strong external wind "drives" the air into the room, in the second case, after the air leaves the room, a small vacuum is formed, which draws the air back into the room. This is not to say that ventilation is completely absent, it just becomes cyclical and works on a back-to-back basis. Of course, the efficiency of such ventilation approaches zero, the air moves a little only near the holes.
And with these phenomena it is clear, now we will consider specific types of natural ventilation of the bath. Let's start with the simplest ones and work our way up to the more complex ones.
The simplest, but also the least effective method ventilation.
In the steam room, a door opens or a door and a window open at the same time - ventilation occurs quickly, but not in the way we would like. Why?
Steam is removed from the bath, and this has negative consequences.
- Firstly, if you open the door, then the steam does not go out into the street, but into other rooms. Humidity rises sharply in them, heated steam immediately condenses on all surfaces. What can happen next - no need to explain.
- Secondly. Lowering the temperature in the steam room is only a subjective phenomenon. There are two concepts of temperature - actual and perceived. The actual temperature is a physical indicator, the perceived temperature is subjective. We feel the same actual temperature in different ways depending on environmental factors. high humidity"increases" the temperature we feel, a strong wind lowers it. So, due to simple ventilation, only excess steam can be removed, and the actual air temperature returns to its previous values within a few minutes.
- Thirdly, ventilation will never be able to establish stable indicators of the microclimate in the room. As soon as the doors are closed, the temperature and humidity rise sharply; as soon as the doors are opened, the humidity and temperature also drop sharply.
Bottom line - ventilation is not the method of ventilation that should be used all the time. This is an extreme method, it is recommended to resort to it only in case of urgent need.
This method can be considered more successful, but it is possible only in one case - the furnace of the sauna stove is located in the steam room. Warm air is removed through the firebox and chimney, entry can occur through floor cracks, an ajar window or door. Sometimes a special hole is made in the lower part of the door leaf; to improve the design, it is closed with a decorative grille.
Benefits of ventilating a bath with a stove.
- Ease of execution. There is no need to make special products in the log house. Any additional hole in wooden wall does not improve its performance, and this is to put it mildly. If mistakes were made during the period of making the vents and installing decorative gratings, then the risks of moisture getting onto the crowns of the log house increase. Moisture will dry out for a very long time, and a long stay wooden structures when wet, it negatively affects their strength and durability of use.
- The ability to control the frequency of air exchange in the room. Ventilation is “controlled” by the damper and the stove doors. It is necessary to speed it up - the damper and the furnace door open all the way, the temperature has become favorable - the damper closes a little. You can easily find the optimal position of the gate, the microclimate in the steam room stabilizes, the ventilation rate of the room has stable values.
Stove with gate - photo
- Versatility of application. It does not matter what materials the bath is built from, what its dimensions and architectural features are. In addition, this system allows for simple upgrades. For example, it is worth making an inlet behind the stove and the air entering the bath will be slightly warmed up. The exhaust is still the chimney.
There are, of course, disadvantages, we will name the main ones.
- Insufficient performance. It will not be possible to quickly change the temperature or humidity in the steam room.
- The presence of "dead" zones. Mixing of air throughout the volume does not occur, there are zones with drafts and zones with stagnant air.
- Dependence of draft (ventilation) on weather conditions.
Despite some disadvantages, this method of ventilation in combination with ordinary ventilation is very often used in "budget" baths.
For a budget couple the best option– oven ventilation and ventilation
Airing the bath with a stove - scheme
The best option for ventilation devices for most baths.
Advantages:
Important. It is desirable to think over the ventilation device even before the start of the construction of the bath. Resolve issues with specific hole placement and overall dimensions. We advise you to make the height of the ducts no more than the height of the beam, and to adjust the length of the holes.
Prices for bath fans
bath fan
Why is it better to provide ventilation at the construction stage?
- Firstly, it is much more physically difficult to make holes in an already finished building.
Drilling a hole in a log house is a laborious process.
- Secondly, there is a risk that the hole will hit the dowel, especially for the upper outlet air. It is located in close proximity to the Mauerlats of the truss system, and they are fixed more often than ordinary crowns, and only metal bars or pieces of building reinforcement are used as dowels.
- Thirdly, if you make a hole with a metal crown, then an expensive tool will fail after a “meeting” with a dowel. And it will not always be possible to “reanimate” a chisel or chisel after trying to cut through the metal.
- Fourthly, the metal dowel in this place is almost impossible to cut off. You can’t get close with a grinder, with a hacksaw as well, but you won’t wish the enemy to cut with a file. We'll have to poke the air in another place. And who needs an extra hole in the bath wall or an increase in its size? Especially if you have already made holes in the outer and inner skin and bought ventilation grilles under its “planned” dimensions. "Meeting with metal dowel- a very unpleasant situation from all points of view.
Variants of placement and sizes of ventilation products
For all natural ventilation products, there are several general rules. Firstly, in order to improve the efficiency of the system, the cold air inlets should be located at the bottom of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. The exit holes should be placed at the maximum height - under the ceiling or on the ceiling. Secondly, the mixing of different layers of air in the volume of the steam room is improved if the inlet and outlet are located at the maximum distance from each other, preferably along the diagonal of the room. Where are they recommended to be installed?
It can be done at the bottom of the steam room door leaf.
Advantages - there is no need to make an extra hole in the wall of the bath. This saves time and effort, in addition, the possibility of getting wet of the lower rims of the log house is excluded. The disadvantage is that in most cases the doors are located opposite the shelves for taking bath procedures, cold air flows appear, creating a number of inconveniences.
Under the shelf
Advantages - the inlet is imperceptible, cold air flows are well mixed with warm air throughout the volume. The disadvantage is that access to the grate for opening / closing the damper is more difficult. If during washing it is possible to regulate the intensity of ventilation only with the help of the upper grate, then after airing the baths, both should be closed. And this means that after some time you will have to visit the steam room specifically to close the vent.
Important. The dampers on the ventilation openings must be installed two for each - outside and inside the steam room. After airing the baths, both should be closed. Choose a grille installation technology that guarantees complete tightness of the external dampers. It is strictly forbidden to get atmospheric moisture on the crowns of the log house.
Behind the oven.
Air inlet behind the furnace - diagram
The best option. Cold air from the street they hit the stove, warms up a little and breaks into several separate and low-speed streams. Drafts are completely eliminated. Disadvantages - it is not always possible to install decorative grilles in this place. If the stove is close to the wall, then the high temperature adversely affects the plastic or wooden materials decorative lattice. In addition, according to safety regulations, such places behind the stove must be insulated with sheet metal using thermal insulation.
Doesn't fit your particular case? No problem, make a hole where you see fit.
As for the outlet, there are fewer problems with its placement. Our only advice - do not do it in the ceiling. Waterlogged air can not be removed to the attic, it will cause constant moisture wooden elements truss system, and its premature repair always "flies a pretty penny". To protect the rafters, moist air will have to be brought to the roof. Why make an additional hole in the coating, why worsen the tightness of the roof coating with your own hands and at your own expense?
Dimensions of openings for natural ventilation
The technology for calculating the dimensions of ventilation openings is indicated in the current regulations. Determining the size of vents for natural ventilation is much more difficult than for forced ventilation - there are too many factors beyond the control of people. Main parameter performance of the ventilation system - the frequency of air changes. For residential premises, the minimum value of the multiplicity is regulated, while both the temperature in the rooms and the temperature outside are taken into account. The temperature in residential premises fluctuates within insignificant limits, which simplifies the work of designers.
In pairs, the situation is much more complicated - the temperature and humidity indicators vary over a very wide range. In addition, the rate of arrival / entry of air in different situations may differ significantly. Such preconditions make it almost impossible to accurately calculate the optimum air exchange rate for natural ventilation.
Some bath owners are afraid to suffocate while taking bath procedures due to lack of oxygen. We bring to their attention that one cubic meter air is enough for one person to breathe for an hour and a half. Calculate the cubic capacity of the steam room and find out how long you can safely steam, the bill goes to tens of hours.
Problems can cause carbon monoxide. If you closed the stove gate before the firewood is completely burned out, then no ventilation will help. It can ventilate the room only if there is no more carbon monoxide coming in. Heat the stove correctly and never burn out, do not rely in vain on ventilation.
How to make a ventilation hole in the wall of the bath
For example, we will take the most difficult option- the external and internal lining of the walls of the bath has already been done. The hole can be round, square or rectangular.
Step 1. Mark the location of the vent on the inner lining of the steam room. Before starting work, you must not only know the location of the hole, but also its dimensions and configuration. It is desirable that air ducts and decorative grilles are available, this will make it possible to accurately control the size of the hole and not do extra work.
Step 2 Prepare a long drill for wood, the working length should exceed the thickness of the bath wall together with the outer and inner lining. In the center of the drawn contour of the vent, drill a through hole from the inside of the steam room. The exit of the drill outside the steam room will be the center of the air. Draw around it the dimensions of the hole, similarly made in the steam room.
Step 3 Remove the elements of the inner and outer skin in the contour. If your bath is sheathed on both sides with natural clapboard, then the process is simplified, just carefully cut the boards. If externally used metal sheets- use the grinder.
Step 4 Carefully inspect the supporting structures of the skin, if they are damaged, repair. Drill through holes as close to each other as possible along the contour of the ventilation duct, constantly check where they exit from the outside of the wall. The drill must always be perpendicular to the plane. Drill the same holes over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe vent, the more there are, the easier it is to make a hole in the wall.
Video - How to drill a large diameter hole in a tree
Step 5. Next, you need to work with a chisel and a chisel, gradually remove the wooden bridges between the holes. It will not be possible to completely gouge a hole on one side of the wall - it is too difficult to reach with a tool. Do half of the work from the inside of the steam room, and the other half from the outside. It is not necessary to carefully level the surfaces of the holes, the main thing is that the air duct fits easily into the channel.
The most difficult physical work is done, you can proceed with the installation of the duct and gratings. Do not be discouraged if it takes a long time to make holes, even experienced builders rarely can prepare more than two products per day.
How to install ducts and grilles
For air ducts, you can take metal galvanized or plastic pipes, the length is determined by the length of the passage. Select the grate according to the size of the hole; to adjust the ventilation efficiency, it must have dampers.
Prices for air ducts
duct
Step 1. mineral wool insulate the planes of the hole, carefully insert the air duct into place. In order to firmly fix the pipe in the desired position, use mounting foam. Excess foam that has come out should be cut off after hardening.
Step 2 If there is waterproofing between the sheathing and the wall, foam the gap between the wall and the hole in the sheathing with foam, it will seal the cut and prevent water from entering the wooden structures.
Step 3 Fasten the gratings, the method of fastening depends on the material of manufacture of the wall cladding and the crate.
We fix the ventilation grilles. In the photo - the grill on the outside of the bath
Mineral wool prices
mineral wool
Check ventilation with a smoldering firebrand or other source of smoke. Bring it to the inlet and observe how and at what speed the air flows in the steam room.
In the photo, the air inflow valve and its performance check
Experiment with natural ventilation at various shutter positions, from maximum to minimum.
Video - Installing the KPV 125 valve
Video - Ventilation in a bath with a Termofor air conditioner
Air, oxygenated vital to people. Especially if the person is in a closed space. Therefore, ventilation in a sauna, bath, bathroom and other rooms with high temperature and humidity levels must be properly arranged.
Otherwise, you can face a lot of unpleasant surprises and their negative consequences. Among the consequences are not only harm to health, but also damage building structures, the development of the fungus, the gradual destruction of the building.
All about the methods and features of organizing the ventilation of Finnish and Russian steam rooms equipped with electric and wood-burning stoves, you will learn on our website. We will talk about the specifics of the device of air supply and exhaust systems. We list the typical errors that occur during an illiterate construction.
The fact that a ventilation system is not necessary for a sauna can often be heard on forums and in conversations with more experienced acquaintances who have been steaming in a bathhouse / sauna built by themselves for the second year already.
Their main argument is their example of the operation of the premises. After all, ventilation requires time and money.
Ventilation is easier to foresee immediately, even before construction, than to deal with the problems that arise due to its absence later
The opinion that everything works fine anyway is fundamentally wrong. The first year or two will work, but subsequently the owner of such a steam room will face a lot of trouble. Yes, and the quality of bath procedures in an unventilated room can be argued.
It is in the steam room with fresh air that you can get high-quality procedures that have a beneficial effect on the body as a whole.
The main problems to be encountered with an improperly equipped or completely absent ventilation system in a home sauna with an electric heater are as follows:
- lack of oxygen;
- bad smell;
- rotting structures;
- reduced service life of the premises;
- drafts;
- increased fuel consumption for heating.
All these signs or only a part of them, one after another, will begin to appear in a sauna / bath that has non-working ventilation. If there is no influx of fresh street air, and there are several people in the steam room at once, then there is a danger of getting burned. Especially if the vacationers are in a state of intoxication, which, unfortunately, can often be found.
Relatively bad smell, then it appears due to the accumulation of sweat and insufficient removal of moisture in the room. Indeed, in the absence of ventilation, it is problematic to dry the steam room after use - you need to open the doors and make sure that everything is well ventilated and dried.
And this applies to all rooms - for relaxation, swimming, locker rooms and others built by a prudent owner.
It is convenient to use special gratings and valves - so no living creatures will fly in, and the inflow / outflow can be controlled
An unpleasant smell still appears as a result of rotting wood, which does not have time to dry. This happens after two or three years from the start of using the sauna. So, some craftsmen even advise a special technology interior decoration steam rooms - so that it is convenient to remove the rotten boards from below and replace them with new ones.
Many craftsmen do not even think that nothing will rot in a sauna with properly equipped ventilation.
Therefore, it is important to provide a ventilation system even before starting the building in order to avoid putrefactive odors and problems with replacing rotten boards in the future.
In addition to this problem, one can observe active on the walls and ceiling, the formation of condensate and swelling of wooden structures. All these troubles begin, like a snowball, to fall on the head of the owner of the sauna.
The result is a significant reduction in service life. Instead of 20-30 years, the steam room can only last 5-6 years. Moreover, an unpleasant smell will accompany guests enjoying bath procedures all these years.
If there is a ventilation system, but it is not arranged correctly, then there will be a problem of drafts walking along the legs of the steamers. And this does not add to the joy of taking hygiene procedures.
Another nuisance is the increase in fuel consumption for heating the steam room. This often occurs when the hood is working too actively, removing excess heat from the room.
A properly planned ventilation system in the sauna can save the owner from unnecessary expenses and save not only money, but also health
To prevent such problems from arising, you need to plan in advance and, choosing the optimal scheme for its arrangement. And there is no single right decision this issue - everything will depend on the specific room and its location.
Image Gallery
