We advise you to plan construction several steps ahead - if you decide to install a bathhouse, immediately think about the gazebo. It will have to be built sooner or later anyway. Bathhouse with a gazebo under one roof – great option. The desired result is achieved much cheaper and faster.
It is necessary to make a few explanations about what a bathhouse with a gazebo under one roof is from the point of view of architects.
A gazebo is a free-standing lightweight structure that does not have main walls, the load-bearing structures are vertical posts. It can have different geometric shapes, from a rectangle or square to a hexagon or circle. There are almost no restrictions on size; the walls can be covered with decorative grilles or be completely open. Barbecues, barbecues or stoves are placed inside.
If such a gazebo is placed under the same roof as a bathhouse, then the structure should correctly be called not a bathhouse with a gazebo, but a bathhouse with a terrace or veranda. But in colloquial speech you can come across the name “sauna with a gazebo under one roof.” And in this article we will use this “folk” name.
Despite the fact that there are many options for building a bathhouse with a gazebo under one roof, they all have common advantages.
Possibility to increase healing effect steam room in the fresh air. To do this, there is no need to move from one separate building to another; immediately after leaving the bathhouse, you can comfortably sit in the gazebo.
Much easier installation engineering communications. Lighting is powered from one power cable, a common distribution board is installed in two buildings, energy consumers are connected to the same RCD.
Space is saved summer cottage, issues with choosing the most suitable place taking into account the characteristics of the landscape and the physical characteristics of the soil.
Significant financial savings. Construction of a bathhouse with a gazebo under one roof costs 30% less than both buildings with the same characteristics separately.
Construction of a separate complex will cost 30 percent more
Add to these advantages significant time savings, the ability to complete everything in one season construction works, put things in order on the site and you will have no doubts about how to develop your summer cottage site.
Brief overview of projects
Project No. 1. Bathhouse with gazebo and covered walkway
Very beautiful and functional solution. The bathhouse and gazebo are built on a shallow reinforced strip foundation - the integrity of the structure is guaranteed and the likelihood of problems arising in the roof valleys is eliminated.
For all buildings, valleys are considered the most problematic places, and if in these places there is even a slight displacement of elements rafter system, then the risks of leaks increase significantly. The project is quite expensive and complex, the roof of the gazebo is multi-level with a large number of slopes various shapes and tilt angles. The dimensions of the bathhouse are 4x5 meters, the transition is 1.5x2 meters, the hexagonal gazebo with a diagonal size of 2.5 meters. Next to the gazebo there is a firewood storage room.
Project No. 2. Bathhouse with a hexagonal gazebo
Bathhouse with hexagonal gazebo
It has a warm sanitary unit, a wash room, a steam room and a rest room. Dimensions 5x9.38 meters. Bathhouse material - foam blocks, external finishing walls - cement-sand plaster.
The interior spaces are lined with natural clapboard. A barbecue is attached near the wall, half of the roof of the gazebo is gable, the other half has hexagonal slopes. There is no separate transition - the consumption of building materials is reduced.
Project No. 3. Bathhouse with a gazebo under an elongated gable roof
The construction material is rounded logs, the rafter system is uniform, made to universal dimensions. The roof of the gazebo rests on separate vertical posts.
The gazebo has a stone stove for cooking, which allows it to be used as a kitchen in the summer. Below we will talk in more detail about the methods of constructing a combined roof; in our opinion, many developers can choose this project option. In the meantime, check out a few more interesting projects bathhouses with gazebos under one roof.
Project No. 4. Bathhouse with gazebo and barbecue
A rather expensive project, but very functional and beautiful, it can serve as decoration for an entire suburban area. The second floor of the bathhouse is attic, with a terrace at the end. On the same site as the gazebo there is a barbecue and a woodshed. This version of the bathhouse can be used as a residential country house.
Project No. 5. Bathhouse with a gazebo under one slope
One of the simplest projects from an architectural point of view, in terms of price it belongs to the “budget” option. The gazebo measures 2.6x6.0 meters, which allows you to place a barbecue, barbecue or summer Russian stove for cooking in it.
Video - Successful bathhouse projects with a gazebo
We’ll talk about the third project, tell you how to build a rafter system correctly, what criteria to use to select building materials and the type of foundation.
How to build a truss system for a bathhouse with a gazebo under an elongated gable roof (project No. 3)
The dimensions of the gazebo are 4×4.1 meters, the roof is gable, the vertical supports are made of timber 150×150 mm, the foundations for the vertical posts are columnar. When building a bathhouse with a gazebo under one roof, pay special attention to the quality of the foundations. A reinforced strip foundation was built under the bathhouse, and a columnar foundation was built under the gazebo. They are not connected into a single structure; each works separately.
The overall gable roof is quite large; the length of the roof above the gazebo is 4 meters. This is a significant overhang over the bathhouse; a change in the vertical position of the rafter system near one wall by just 1 centimeter causes a change in the horizontal above the end of the gazebo by 3÷4 centimeters, this is a lot for any roof. During the construction of foundations, every effort must be made to completely eliminate seasonal fluctuations. It is advisable to make the depth of the foundation (strip and columnar) below the level of soil freezing in winter.
If you choose shallow foundations, then follow the building codes exactly. The depth of the tape cannot be lower than 80 cm, the thickness of the sand cushion must not be less than 20 cm.
To reinforce the tape, you need to take construction reinforcement of a periodic profile Ø 10 mm or more.
Fittings and reinforcement according to SNiP
Another important point. After building the foundations, give them time to settle naturally. To control the amount of shrinkage, make vertical marks on the tape and posts. After a certain time, check their position using a water level; if they have moved, make new marks. It is recommended to begin construction only after the shrinkage of the foundations has completely stopped.
Columnar foundations must have anchors for fixing vertical posts; the width of the columns is at least 40x40 centimeters. If there are violations in the foundation construction technology, then during the operation of a bathhouse with a gazebo under one roof, big troubles will arise.
Prices for asbestos-cement pipes
asbestos cement pipes
And one last thing. Wooden sauna also shrinks; depending on the insulation material, the moisture content of the timber and the parameters of the building, shrinkage can be up to 0.7 centimeters per meter of height. The vertical roof posts above the gazebo, of course, do not have such shrinkage; the Mauerlats will bend with all the very negative consequences. To prevent this from happening, you need to give time for the log house to completely shrink, and this will take at least one year. By the way, while the log house is settling, the foundation will also “calm down”.
Stages of construction of a rafter system over a bathhouse and gazebo
Step 1. Preparation of materials for the rafter system. For the rafter system, you need to purchase 150×150 mm timber for the mauerlats, 50×150 mm boards for the rafters and 50×100 mm boards for the crossbars and tie-downs.
In our case, we choose simple rafter systems with crossbars and tie rods. To increase the strength of the structure, you can install ridge beams, headstocks and struts over the bathhouse. Such a design will not be superfluous; it will take on part of the load and will not allow deformation of the rafter system above the gazebo.
Step 2. Taking dimensions and calculating the number of rafters. According to the project, the width of the bathhouse and gazebo is 4 meters, the slope of the slopes is assumed to be 20°, this figure is satisfactory for middle zone our country. If you live in regions with heavy snow cover, then the slope of the slopes should be increased. The distance between the rafters is 80 centimeters, given the length of the bathhouse with an attic of 9.5 meters, 12 pairs of rafter legs will be needed. The length of each rafter, taking into account the overhang, is 4.5 meters, in total for the building to create rafter legs you will need (4.5 + 4.5) × 12 = 108 linear meters boards 50×150 mm.
You need to buy with a reserve, increase this amount by 5÷10%. The exact amount of materials depends on their quality and your skill. Keep in mind that the boards of the rafter system must be at least first grade; the presence of deep cracks, natural defects and rotten knots is completely prohibited.
Important. When purchasing lumber, pay attention to the conditions and method of storage. Incorrectly stacked stacks can cause significant curvature of the boards - such material is not suitable for the construction of a rafter system. Inspect each board edgewise to make sure the surface is straight.
The standard length of the boards is 6 meters, which means that the boards will need to be cut. Sections 1.5 meters long will not go to waste; they can be connected and used for tightening.
Even ordinary connections can withstand high tensile forces, and these are the forces that act on tightening. Using the same scheme, calculate the remaining lumber for the rafter system.
Used as roof covering flexible tiles made of modified bitumen; a continuous sheathing is made of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB boards. For lathing, take the cheapest ones edged boards, just remove the bark.
Prices for OSB boards
OSB boards
Step 3. Installation of the Mauerlat. For the Mauerlat, you need to use a 150x150 mm beam; it is attached to the upper rims of the bathhouse with metal dowels, the distance between the dowels is within one meter. The dowel must hold at least two crowns of the log house.
Before installing the Mauerlat, be sure to check the height of all vertical supports around the perimeter of the gazebo. The ends must lie in a strictly horizontal position and in the same plane. To check you need to use a hydraulic level or laser level. If deviations are found, they need to be eliminated.
Vertical supports are connected to columnar foundations with anchors. For anchors, both reinforcement bars and pieces of wire rod are used. The anchor must be concreted into the foundation to a depth of at least 15 centimeters.
Start laying the mauerlats from the side of the gazebo; connecting the beams along the length can only be done above the bathhouse. It is easier to connect with a cut in half a tree; the connection point is fixed with self-tapping screws, nails, bolts or metal staples. During work, constantly monitor the distance between the opposite Mauerlats and their position in the horizontal plane. The more accurately the mauerlats are laid, the more reliable the rafter system will be and the less time it will take to build it.
Video - An example of building a bathhouse from timber with a terrace (part 1)
Step 4.
The roof of the bathhouse with a gazebo does not have any fractures or changes in the angle of inclination; all rafters are completely identical. This allows you to prepare elements according to a template. The template is made from ordinary boards, the nodes are connected with nails. Carry out the work carefully and slowly, mistakes are too expensive.
Important. We strongly recommend checking the template along the entire length of the bath. Lift it to the bathhouse, place it in the desired position and walk along the entire length of the building. Mark the places where you need to slightly increase or decrease the distance between the rafter legs, stop at the average value. The average value will give you the opportunity to make all the rafters the same size, and make fine adjustments while fixing the elements. On the template, make notch marks for connecting to the Mauerlat.
Step 5. Solve the issue of building a rafter system over the gazebo. There is a ceiling above the bathhouse; builders can walk on it; materials are stored in the attic. The gazebo does not have a ceiling; therefore, before starting construction of the rafter system, it will be necessary to install factory scaffolding or make them yourself. Both options are equivalent in effectiveness; if possible, it is better to borrow wood for a while. If this is not possible, you will be forced to waste time making them. When working on scaffolding, follow safety regulations.
Scaffolding – photo
Step 6. Raise up prepared rafter legs on the roof of the bathhouse. To install the rafters you will need Additional materials for installing tie rods, special tools, fixtures and hardware for fixing rafter legs. In addition, pieces of boards are needed for their temporary fixation.
Step 7, check their placement, fix them in the desired position with temporary supports. To increase the stability of the rafter system, use metal corners with screws. Stretch ropes between the outer rafters and, one by one, install all the remaining elements of the rafter system along them. Do not forget to temporarily tie the rafters together with boards; after installing the sheathing, they will be removed. Nail the boards from below so that they do not interfere with the lathing under the roofing.
Step 8 horizontal tightening, it is more reliable to connect them with bolts. Drill holes in the rafters and tie rods, insert bolts required length and tighten the nuts tightly. To increase the contact area of the bolt head and nut, use large diameter washers.
You cannot make the rafter system yourself; you need to involve at least two assistants in the work. Try to find those who have personal experience construction of a rafter system (even if only as a helper) or, in as a last resort we saw how real masters do it.
Check all dimensions, spatial position of elements and reliability of loaded critical components. Everything is fine - the rafter system is ready, you can start lathing and covering the roof.
Video - Construction of a gable roof
Installation of sheathing under soft tiles
Lathing under soft roof- installation
Sheets of plywood or OSB are mounted on a sheathing of boards or slats. The distances between slats are within 50 centimeters. Start nailing lumber from the bottom; make templates to control the distances. If a lot of time has passed between the installation of the rafters and the installation of the sheathing, then you should check their position. As always, use tension between the outer rafters to do this. The plywood is fastened to the sheathing with nails, fastening also starts from the bottom up. After finishing the work, use a saw to trim the sheathing along the same line from the side of the gables.
Prices for soft tiles
soft tiles
Video - Construction of a bathhouse from timber (part 2)
What to pay extra attention to
As can be seen from the project, the distance between the vertical supports of the gazebo is from two to four meters. Such remoteness makes them unstable; it is necessary to take a set of additional measures to increase rigidity supporting structure rafter system.
Connect the supports at the top of the gazebo together with 50x100 mm boards. Before this, the lumber should be passed through a surface planer, sanded to roughness and coated with a weather-resistant varnish.
The connection between the vertical supports of the gazebo and the boards can be done with long wood bolts; choose galvanized hardware. It is better to recess the heads and seal the holes with putty to match the lumber.
If, even after additional fastening of the supports, their stability is in doubt, install inclined corner supports. In the future, these supports can serve as a frame for construction. decorative fencing gazebos.
An original turnkey bathhouse is a wonderful way not only to relax and forget about the tedious workdays, but also to restore efficiency and get rid of illnesses. But for this to become a reality, it is necessary to spend as much time as possible in nature. At the same time, steaming all day is quite tiring. The Tsar Bath company will offer you perfect solution this problem: You can order from us the design and construction of a bathhouse with a barbecue. This is a good option for those who plan to leave Moscow for several days. This steam room ideally combines the bathing traditions of antiquity with the possibility of organizing leisure time in a modern style.
Designing a sauna with a barbecue: why you should choose us
If you often gather a group of friends or close relatives at your dacha, the question immediately arises of what to do with them after thermal procedures. You can take care of this in advance by reviewing the designs of bathhouses with a terrace and barbecue photo from interesting design. Our proposals will certainly attract your attention for the following reasons:
- Each of our projects is a product of the creative thought of experienced company specialists. In our work we take into account both building regulations and the wishes of the client. If you doubt your choice, you will definitely receive professional advice on which construction option would be better suited for a site with a given area and terrain.
- Our sauna with barbecue projects will be relatively inexpensive, even if you want to build a large steam room with many decorative elements.
- We immediately calculate possible risks for the structure associated with shrinkage of walls, laying a foundation in a certain type of soil, and atmospheric influences. Therefore, our log bathhouse will last for several decades without requiring major repairs.
Construction of a bathhouse with a barbecue: a new quality of relaxation in the ancient Russian style
You will probably want to taste delicious and aromatic kebab immediately after visiting the steam room. The construction of a bathhouse with a barbecue will allow you to organize the following leisure activities at the highest level:
- At the customer’s request, we will add a gazebo near the steam room with either a barbecue grill or a real Russian stove, and its installation will be carried out in accordance with modern standards in this area.
- When building a bathhouse with a barbecue, our specialists will make the structure as safe as possible, so that there is no risk of fire or poisoning carbon monoxide is reduced to a minimum.
- This can be a bathhouse made of logs or timber - both options are distinguished by high quality materials and affordable prices.
Our company knows everything about sauna relaxation. Contact us - and you simply won’t want to leave your dacha.
Bathhouse projects with a loggia and barbecue are an excellent method to compensate for the lack of free space on suburban area. This combination allows you to create a functional entertainment area, which can additionally be used as a summer kitchen.
In addition, this solution has other advantages:
- organization of a complete relaxation - after steaming and relaxing after the bath, you can immediately cook barbecue or snacks on the fire on the veranda;
- integrated construction can help accurately transfer the overall building style for all buildings on the site;
- if a bathhouse in a country house is planned to be used exclusively during the season, then an extensive loggia with a barbecue can completely replace the entertainment room, which will help to save significantly on the construction of a bathhouse;
- there is no need to connect separate objects with paths, thanks to which you can additionally save the required area and reduce costs;
- combining several objects under one roof will help to significantly reduce costs, since in such a situation, for example, the wall of a bathhouse will also become the wall of a loggia.
Material selection
Complex including swimming pools, sauna and extensive entertainment area
A very well-known and economically viable material for building a bathhouse with a loggia is wood beams. On the one hand, it retains heat well, so the bathhouse will not require auxiliary insulation. In addition, the tree itself - regular material Russian bathhouse, it allows you to create an exclusive “bathhouse” atmosphere. An additional plus is that wood, as a “breathable” material, independently regulates humidity, although at the same time it requires additional safety from mold and fire.
Brick baths are more reliable in terms of fire protection, although they take longer to heat up and require the greatest amount of fuel. Besides, brick baths will require the mandatory installation of a ventilation system, otherwise condensation will begin to accumulate inside the bathhouse, provoking the formation of mold and microbes.
More famous modifications - baths made of timber
Standard Russian sauna made of timber
Laying the foundation
Despite the often common roof, under the loggia and the bathhouse they lay different foundation. The bathhouse, of course, is heavier than the loggia, therefore for the largest in area and high-rise buildings A solid strip foundation is required, but for small baths it is possible to get by with a pile foundation. If foam concrete or brick is used to build a bathhouse, then it must be poured strip foundation- others simply cannot withstand the weight of construction.
It will be quite enough for a wooden loggia pile foundation. In those episodes when the loggia is placed on difficult soil, prone to freezing or crumbling, on slopes, then to increase stability it is more original to lay helical piles. At the same time, for wooden buildings it is important to create waterproofing between the wood and the foundation in order to avoid rotting of the wood.
A significant period of construction of the bathhouse - laying the foundation
Loggia and barbecue: counting correctly
When planning a loggia, first of all you need to take into account what purpose of the wind is considered the main one, so that the purpose of the bathhouse covers the loggia. In addition, this will allow the barbecue to be positioned correctly so that the wind carries the smoke and heat away from the visitors. If the loggia will serve as a refuge from the sun's rays on a hot summer day, then there is no need to place it in the southern direction. Or, on the contrary, a loggia with a sun lounger will most likely become a wonderful reception space sunbathing- here it entirely depends on the desires and tastes of the owner. In addition, the selection of the location of the loggia is greatly influenced by the view around it - contemplation of the fence is unlikely to add to the mood on vacation, it is much more pleasant to enjoy a forest, a lake or a landscaped exterior.
The loggia can be placed frontally (i.e. along the facade of the bathhouse, Fig. 1), on the side (near one of the walls), it has the opportunity to have a corner location (along 2 adjacent walls) or encircling (along 3 walls, sometimes entirely around the bathhouse, if the territory allows).
Rice. 1. Plan of a bathhouse with a frontal location of the loggia
Frontal arrangement of the terrace
Plan of an elegant and laconic bathhouse with a loggia and barbecue
If you don't expect to invite a large number of people, then taking into account the introduction of barbecue (barbecue), the smallest proposed loggia area is 7-8 m². Although it is best to start with 9-10 m², then in addition to tables and chairs on the loggia it will be possible to install a sun lounger, a couple of chairs, while the person standing at the barbecue will have enough free space for activities, and vacationers will not get bored with the heat from the stove and smoke.
Although a loggia in the traditional sense is an open area, for greatest convenience it contains a roof for safety from rain and sun. This may well be a continuation of the roof of the bathhouse and be made of a similar roofing material, or you can serve the loggia with translucent polycarbonate. In addition, an opaque canopy will create twilight in the bathhouse itself, so you will need to connect the light earlier.
Recommendation! Polycarbonate coating is especially suitable for large loggias - there is no need to build a powerful base, the lightweight iron system will not clutter up the space, remaining virtually invisible.
For the floor on the loggia, it is preferable to use a wooden board or decking. Naturally, you can lay sidewalk or ceramic tiles, although the tree will look more comfortable. Natural stone is used in the form of spraying on a large loggia.
Natural stone will be a striking treatment for the loggia
To install a barbecue, you need to lay the foundation separately, and special fire-resistant bricks are used for construction, and the base is made at a height of about 70 centimeters from the floor.
Recommendation! To improve fire safety, near the barbecue it is more original to put stone (tile) tiles instead of wood coating - even if a spark falls on it, it will not cause a fire.
A rectangular niche is made in the front wall, in which it will be possible to store a small supply of firewood. To remove smoke from a barbecue, a certain chimney is made, which in height must guarantee effective removal of smoke from the bathhouse.
On the loggia you need to allocate space for firewood
An extensive relaxation complex, including entertainment rooms, a bathhouse, a loggia with a barbecue
Planning a bathhouse with a loggia and barbecue oven
The plan of a bathhouse, regardless of the type (Russian, Turkish, Finnish), must provide for the presence of at least 3 rooms:
- locker room - dressing room with the smallest volume of 1.2-3 m2, although along with this it is necessary to take into account that according to the standards per person there should be 1.3 m²;
- shower room - smallest volume 2x2 m;
- steam room - its volume is a compromise between the comfort of placement and the need to maintain the required temperature at low fuel (electricity) consumption. The smallest size of a steam room for 2-3 persons will be 1.3-1.8 m.
If there is a predominance of a spacious loggia for a seasonal bath, you can abandon the entertainment room. The planning of the remaining premises, of course, depends on the aspirations and probabilities of the future owner.
Longitudinal plan of a bathhouse with a loggia, connected from each other by a polycarbonate roof
In this regard, everything you need for fun in the bathhouse fits under one roof
Let's take a closer look at the individual plans.
A corner bathhouse with a loggia and barbecue (Fig. 2) makes excellent use of the site area if you place it in one of the corners.
Rice. 2. Corner bathhouse with loggia and barbecue
The space is used too constructively - the spacious shower room has a plunge pool with cool water. The steam room is quite large - it will be quite comfortable to heat the stove in it; at the same time, it is moved closer to the corner, away from the front door - this is safer, since after the flashy lighting of the shower room, the eyes would like to get used to the subdued light of the steam room. If brick is chosen as the material for the bathhouse, then the stove can be embedded into the walls. If you arrange the steam room a little more insignificantly, then with this location of the stove it can be heated from the shower. There are 2 entrances to the common vestibule - one from the street, the second from the loggia.
Plan bathhouse-guest house(Fig. 3) with a veranda and barbecue, a fairly large area - 98 m2. Therefore, if its year-round implementation is expected, installation of a heating system is required. Inside is an extensive entertainment room and some kitchen area. The loggia is located on the side, in area it is almost half of the building. Entrance from two sides - from the street through the vestibule (winter entrance) and from the loggia.
Rice. 3 Bathhouse - guest house with barbecue and loggia
In Fig. 4 and 5 show 2 more plans for a bathhouse with a loggia and barbecue, which can be used as a guest house.
Rice. 4. Plan of a bathhouse-guest house with a terrace and barbecue
Rice. 5. Bathhouse with loggia and barbecue
In Fig. 6 drawing of a bathhouse with a loggia and barbecue, on which you need to pay attention to front door to the entertainment room - it is located at the greatest distance from the barbecue in order to completely eliminate the possibility of smoke entering the building.
Rice. 6. Drawing of a bathhouse with a loggia and barbecue
It is worth noting such an important fact that brick buildings can be finished with porcelain stoneware or tiles. This will give them a certain originality in appearance. Besides, exterior finishing walls can be very interestingly combined with one or another type roofing materials.
The bathhouse is usually covered with pliable roofing materials, and perhaps tiles, slate or metal profiles will be used. Along with this, you can build like an ordinary gable roof, and the attic. The attic is good because it allows you to combine buildings with a bathhouse for visitors to live in; in addition, you can equip an office or a room for summer recreation there.
The final step in choosing a project for building a bathhouse is to develop it either in three-dimensional form or in paper form. This is how you will have the opportunity to see the bathhouse with your own eyes long before it is built. This will allow you to make the necessary corrections during construction, and it will become much easier to build a room according to a plan created in advance.
Thanks to modern building materials, developers are able to build various options one-story bathhouses with a veranda.
The buildings differ in:
- type of foundation. For such baths, you can use screw pile, columnar, columnar with grillages and shallow strip types of foundations;
Types of building foundations 
Common types of foundations 
Types of columnar foundation - construction material. Baths can be built from natural sawn, profiled, glued and rounded timber, cement foam blocks and bricks. It is allowed to use sandwich panels and frame construction;
Log bathhouse 
Bathhouse made of profiled timber 
Brick bathhouse 
Bathhouse made of blocks 
Bathhouse made of sandwich panels 
- type of roof and roofing coverings. The roof can be gable, flat or pitched. Covers all types of roofing materials - from ordinary asbestos-cement slate and metal roofing to materials based on modified bitumen;
Types of roofs by shape 
- By architectural features buildings. Detached, attached, with verandas, with attics, with swimming pools, etc.
Bathhouse extension made of timber 
Bathhouse with gazebo 
Bathhouse with summer kitchen 
We no longer remember the differences in furnace designs, the presence autonomous heating, drainage systems. In one article, it is not even theoretically possible to consider all the features of the construction of each bathhouse option; we will consider only one option: a bathhouse made of foam blocks.
When drawing up a project, it is not necessary to contact specialized companies, this is very expensive. It is enough to get acquainted with numerous offers on the Internet and, based on the information received, choose for yourself best option or create your own individual project. By what criteria do you choose (or draw up) a bathhouse project?
Number of family members. For a family of three to four people, it is enough to have a bathhouse measuring ≈10÷16 m2. Such dimensions allow you to place inside a quite comfortable washing room (≈4 m2), steam room (≈4 m2) and a relaxation room (≈3 m2).
Bathhouse project 
Layout option
If your family is larger or you plan to wash in a bathhouse with friends, a bathhouse option with dimensions of ≈20÷30 m2 is suitable. These dimensions make it possible to significantly increase the relaxation room (up to ≈10 m2), the size of the steam room and washing room to 6 m2, and make a separate vestibule at the entrance doors.
It is advisable to make a veranda (terrace) at the same time. What is the difference between a veranda and a terrace? The veranda is glazed and can be insulated. We would not recommend making a veranda; its role is perfectly fulfilled by the rest room. And the terrace will allow after water procedures enjoy the fresh air. But we only advise, the final decision is yours.
Glazed veranda 
Elite bathhouse. Here the imagination is limited only by the capacity of the wallet. You can make swimming pools, a separate Russian steam room and a Finnish sauna, recreation rooms and gyms. Such projects cannot be done on your own; you should contact specialized design companies.
Elite bathhouse. Steam room with lighting 
Swimming pool in the bathhouse 
Luxurious relaxation room in the bathhouse 
We will focus only on one fairly simple option baths with a veranda made of foam blocks.
Construction technology for a bathhouse with a veranda made of foam blocks
Of all possible options building structures we choose the simplest one.
- Shallow strip foundation and drainage system.
- Gable sloping roof for a bathhouse and veranda, covered with metal profiles.
- Interior decoration and floors are made of natural lining and planed boards.
- Homemade metal stove.
- Exterior finishing – painting with durable paints.
Stages of work
First you need to make a calculation of the required materials. What will you need?
Cement will be required during the production of concrete. certain brand, sand and gravel. To familiarize yourself with the recommended proportions, study the proposed table No. 1.
To calculate the amount of concrete ingredients, use table No. 2
When making concrete with your own hands, no one weighs the ingredients to the nearest kilogram; these standards are used industrial enterprises for writing off materials.
For our version of the bathhouse, concrete grade 200 is sufficient; it can withstand a load of ≈200 kg/cm2.
Calculate the volume of your foundation and the volume of the foundation for the furnace (if it has one), this will give you the opportunity to determine the amount of all components of concrete. The resulting value needs to be increased by about ten percent, which will cover possible mistakes and waste.
For the box you need to purchase foam blocks. To lay one cubic meter of blocks, approximately 0.2 m3 of cement-sand mortar is required, keep this in mind. To calculate the number of blocks you need to divide one cubic meter for the volume of one block. For example, with a block size of 200×300×600 mm, its volume is 0.036 m3, therefore, for a cubic meter of masonry you will need 27.8 pieces. (1:0.036).
Using the same method, count the number of floorboards, ceiling and wall boards, plastic linings and roofing coverings. Determine the number and length of floor and ceiling beams measuring 100x100 mm, rafter boards 50x100 mm, laths 20x50 mm. The calculations of the amount of roofing materials, insulation and waterproofing materials are no different.
Of course, you need to purchase nails and screws, baseboards, trim, doors and windows. All calculations have been made, materials have been purchased - construction work can begin.
Prices for concrete M400
Foundation
We have already decided that we are choosing a shallow-depth tape option.
| No. | Description of work | Illustration |
|---|---|---|
| Step 1. | Site preparation. The site should be leveled as much as possible along the perimeter of the foundation and the top fertile layer should be removed. Don’t be lazy to level the ground, otherwise you will have to increase the cost of materials and time to build the foundation. | |
| Step 2. | Marking. Very important stage, mistakes made are very difficult to correct, and in many cases impossible. Prepare wooden pegs, tape measure and rope. Drive pegs to fit the dimensions of the outer sides of the foundation and check the corners. They should all be exactly 90°. Pre-mark according to the template. You need to check using diagonals - the length of the two diagonals must be the same. The width of the foundation in our case is 25 centimeters. | |
| Step 3. | Digging a trench. A depth of 60 centimeters is sufficient; to prevent heaving of the earth at the bottom, you need to make a sand cushion 15÷20 cm thick. This is much easier than digging a foundation to a freezing depth; in cold climates it can reach more than two meters. The sand will compensate for the swelling of the frozen ground, and the foundation will be stable. If you are breading an oven with a foundation, prepare a hole for it. | |
| Step 4. | Pouring concrete into the ground. If the soil on your site is dense and the trenches do not collapse, great, concrete can be poured without formwork. If there is sand, you will have to make formwork not only above the ground, but also in the trench. This must be immediately foreseen and the width of the foundation adjusted. The formwork is made from sections, used boards, sheet plywood or moisture-resistant OSB boards. It is very important - fasten the formwork in such a way that it can be easily dismantled later. |
It’s ideal to pour the concrete all at once; if that doesn’t work, do the pouring in stages. The main thing is that the concrete is laid in a layer of equal thickness along the entire perimeter, otherwise the strength of the foundation will deteriorate sharply. Don’t forget about tamping; it can be done with special vibrators or homemade “pushes”.
Concrete should be reinforced with periodic profile construction reinforcement Ø 5÷8 mm.
Reinforcement - diagram 
Very important: the distance of the reinforcement box between the formwork must be at least 5 centimeters; lift it from the bottom using stones. The reinforcement is tied with wire.
Reinforcement – photo 
CONCRETE AND REINFORCED CONCRETE STRUCTURES. BASIC PROVISIONS. SNiP 52-01-2003. Moscow 2004 File for download
Very important. Do not forget to make vents for floor ventilation, without functional natural ventilation the boards will rot very quickly. To do this, insert pieces of pipe into the formwork or make wooden boxes. The distance between the vents in opposite walls is approximately 1.5÷2 meters. At the same time, leave a hole in one of the corners to drain water.
Production and installation of formwork
The height of the formwork should be slightly greater than the height of the foundation, install the formwork level, securely fasten all the panels to the ground. Remember that it is very difficult to correct a “bulging” foundation.
The work is carried out in the same way as pouring concrete into the ground. With one difference - carefully check the horizontality; construction standards allow a horizontal deviation of no more than one centimeter per five linear meters. In most cases, the surface of the tape will have to be trimmed again. Allow the concrete to cure for at least two weeks, then remove the formwork.
The foundation is ready, you can start laying blocks.
Prices for fittings
fittings
Block laying
Step 1. Marking. Before marking, place two layers of waterproofing on the foundation. In this case, it does not so much protect the blocks from destruction (they are not afraid high humidity) as everybody wooden elements, adjacent to them. Make precise markings of doorways and junctions between internal and external walls. Next, a very important point is the placement of corner lighthouse blocks.
We lay a block in all corners of the building without mortar, level them with maximum accuracy, check the distance between them along the perimeter and always check the corners with a rope. We have already described how to check angles above. The maximum discrepancy between the lengths of the diagonals and the perimeter of the building should not exceed two centimeters; this indicator can be eliminated during laying of the walls. Now you can put the lighthouse blocks on the solution.
Laying the first row of blocks - the result
Step 2. Carefully drive nails into the lighthouse blocks and stretch the rope between them. This will be a template line for height and linearity for the next row of blocks. The rows of blocks should hang slightly over the base, so it will be easier to do finishing work on the base later. Apply a solution 1.5÷2 cm thick to the foundation, then adjust the length of the applied section taking into account the speed of your masonry.
Keep in mind that foam concrete blocks absorb water very quickly, all work should be done quickly. The first row is laid with special care. Firstly, this series is considered basic. Secondly, you do not yet have enough experience to use the “masterful precision eye” instead of the level. The length of the wall is rarely a multiple of the length of the blocks; they will have to be trimmed; use an ordinary hacksaw for this; foam blocks can be cut perfectly with such a simple tool.
Step 3. Do not forget when laying the first row façade walls start laying out the first row of internal walls with binding.
Step 4. Carefully place 3-4 rows of blocks in the corners of the bathhouse and at the junction of the walls, and check their position several times. Next, you will fix a rope at the joints of each row and continue laying along it. In the future, all operations must be repeated: again lay several rows in the corners, pull the rope and build walls.
Step 5. Window openings. When the height of the walls is equal to the height of the windows or doors, make markings along their width and continue laying, taking into account the height of the windows. As a jumper you can use a metal corner 50÷50 mm or more or metal fittings with a diameter of 10 mm or more, or make a concrete lintel. The ends of the lintels should extend approximately 25÷30 cm onto the walls on each side of the window or doorway.
Step 6. The last two rows need to be reinforced with construction reinforcement Ø 10 mm; lay the rods in two to three rows at an equal distance. Not reaching one row before the end of the masonry, lay ceiling beams 50÷100 mm. Due to the fact that the attic space will not be used, 50×100 mm boards can be used for the ceiling; the ends of the boards resting on the wall must be insulated with roofing felt. The distance between the beams is 1÷1.5 meters. Place the last top row of blocks. At this point, the box is almost ready; the gables will be walled up after the roof is erected. Windows will need to be made in the gables.
Now you can start building the roof. Ours will have a gable roof with an overhang for the veranda.
Video - Laying floor joists
Video - Rough ceiling
Video - Construction of a bathhouse from foam blocks
Roof
Bathhouse has small sizes, we choose one of the most simple options rafter system - hanging.
Hanging rafters - calculations 
Do not forget that the roof will have an overhang; before installing it, you need to fix the vertical supports for the veranda. Measure their exact length and secure it to the foundation using metal corners, check the height again and adjust if necessary. Check horizontality with a rope or hydraulic level.
An example of constructing a veranda - a pillar made of timber
In order for the work to be carried out quickly and safely, it is necessary to lay a temporary (rough) coating on the existing ceiling beams. Use any boards for this; anyway, they will need to be removed later to insulate the bathhouse ceiling. But don’t be too “hacky”; you will need to walk on this temporary ceiling during the construction of the roof.
Prices for timber
Mauerlat installation
The rafters will rest on it; for the mauerlat, use a 100x100 mm beam. The timber is laid under the rope along the entire length of the bathhouse and veranda; use roofing felt for waterproofing. Be careful when it comes to waterproofing; the fact is that all cement-based materials tend to absorb atmospheric moisture. And increased humidity has Negative influence on wooden structures.
Step 1. Check the position of the top chord of the masonry and, if necessary, straighten it with mortar.
Step 2. Measure the length of the opposite walls and the distance to the outermost vertical support column, and prepare the beam using these data.
Step 3. Place two layers of roofing material on the wall and a beam on it, do all the work along a stretched rope, the mauerlat should be in the middle of the blocks.
Very important! The distance between opposite Mauerlats must be absolutely the same.
Step 4. Securely attach the Mauerlat to the wall. To do this, you can use scraps of reinforcement 30÷40 centimeters long. Before laying the Mauerlats, it is advisable to drill holes in them for metal dowels, the distance between the holes is approximately one meter. Drill the walls along the existing holes and drive in metal dowels. The Mauerlat must be secured firmly; perform all construction operations correctly.
Mauerlats also need to be made for the vertical supports of the veranda. We strongly recommend that one beam overlaps the supports and is tied to the bathhouse frame - this will increase the stability of the structure.
Step 5. Calculate the dimensions of the rafters, make one blank from the boards. It is not advisable to use headstocks for vertical stops; it is enough to just tie the rafter legs together with an upper tie.
For fastening, use nails or self-tapping screws of appropriate length, metal corners and plates. This will greatly speed up and simplify the process of constructing the rafter system. For our rafters, a 50×100 mm board is suitable, the distance between the rafters is 1.2÷1.4 meters, the number of rafters should be more than needed to cover the box - this roof will simultaneously cover the veranda. The angle of inclination of the slopes is within 20÷30°. Do not forget that the rafters should protrude thirty centimeters beyond the walls to drain rain and melt water.
How to make a template? Take boards of suitable length, 20÷25 mm thick, and lift them onto the roof of the bathhouse. Use one nail to overlap at the top, the boards should rotate. First set the angle of inclination “by eye”, drive in a second nail at the top, this will fix the angle of inclination of the rafter legs. Place the template on the mauerlats, mark the joining point, cut the persistent “heels” in these places, and check the position of the rafter legs again. Walk with the template along the entire length of the bathhouse and check the rafters. If everything is fine, you can lower the template to the ground. Using this template, make all the rafters and lift the finished structures onto the roof. Next, the rafter legs can be mounted on the Mauerlats.
Step 6. Install rafters along the edges of the roof, including their extension over the veranda.
Check the position, everything is fine - temporarily fix them from below with any boards or slats of the appropriate length. Pull the rope along the ridge and you can install all the other rafter legs.
Step 7 Nail the sheathing. In our version for roofing a metal profile (profiled sheet) has been selected. The distance between the lathing is approximately 40 centimeters, this is enough to securely fix the sheets. For lathing, you can use slats or inexpensive boards. The latter are preferable - there is less chance of the self-tapping screw not hitting the rail.
Step 8. If you want it, install a hydrobarrier; if you don’t want it, don’t install it. A properly covered roof will not have leaks. In addition, our attic space is not used, so there is no need to insulate the roof.
Step 9 Carefully mark the position of the first row of profiled sheets; the length of the overlap should be at least 10 centimeters. It is advisable to lay the first row without fixing it and check everything.
Step 10 Secure the sheets one by one using special screws with a rubber gasket, the length of the screws is at least 25 mm. You need to install a special metal curved bar on the skate. You can buy it in a store or make it yourself. Attach snow guards.
Step 11. Hammer the parts of the rafters protruding above the wall with wind boards.
Step 12 Install a drainage system. The brackets need to be fixed to the wind boards; make a slight angle of inclination towards the water receiver. Install vertical pipes after covering the external walls.
In the photo - fastening the gutter 
Now you can wall up the gables with blocks, provide windows in them. That's all for the roof. You can begin installing floors and ceilings.
Prices for gutters
gutters
Video - Laying the pediment
Installing the floor in the steam room
We will lay the floors directly on the floor beams, the distance between the beams is one meter; for the covering, use an ordinary edged planed board approximately 25 mm thick. Before installing the floor, decide on the location of the water drainage, prepare the receiver and make an outlet outside the perimeter of the bathhouse.
For better water drainage, we will make a slight slope of the floor, 2÷3° is quite enough. to one of the walls, you can buy a factory-made grille or make your own from a piece of sheet aluminum.
Step 1. Make markings and install floor beams from 100x100 mm timber. The ends must be wrapped with roofing felt. Fix the beams in the wall blocks, to do this, drill holes 10 cm deep. Insert the beams into them, seal the cracks with mortar. Don't forget to make a slight incline. In other rooms of the bathhouse, beams are installed in a similar way, only without a slope. To install the floors, you will need to make a stop for pulling them together or buy a ready-made one in the store. This stop is attached to the beam, and a wooden wedge is driven between it and the floorboards for tightening.
Step 2. Nail down the boards one at a time; small gaps can be left in the steam room; in other rooms the floor should be dense.
Step 3. Nail the baseboards, in the corners the baseboards are connected at an angle of 45°, make the cuts as neat as possible.
While there is no need to sand the floorboards, this work will be done at the end of the work after upholstering the walls and installing windows and doors. In other rooms, the floor is installed according to the described algorithm without a slope.
Ceiling installation
For the ceiling you need to take edged boards 20 mm thick; the top of the ceiling can be covered with used material. We recommend using polystyrene foam for insulation. The fact is that mineral wool It is very afraid of high humidity; in such conditions its heat-saving characteristics deteriorate significantly. And using various steam and hydrobarriers is expensive. And they do not provide a 100% guarantee of protection.
Bottom to ceiling beams nail the boards, watch the dimensions, do not allow distortions. If necessary, leave a hole in the attic. Place sheets of polystyrene foam, at least five centimeters thick, tightly onto nailed boards and cover with boards on top. If you already know the specific location of the stove and the chimney outlet, leave the holes. It is better, of course, to cover the ceiling with natural lining, but this is quite an expensive pleasure. If you have the financial means, use lining.
Windows and doors
You will not be able to make these structures yourself; the optimal solution is to order by size plastic options, and install it yourself. In terms of price, durability and quality, plastic windows and doors satisfy most developers, and we chose this option. We'll tell you how to install plastic window, the doors are inserted in the same way.
| Step, No. | Description of actions |
|---|---|
| Step 1. | Clean the perimeter of the window opening from dust. |
| Step 2. | If the window is large and heavy, then it is better to remove the double-glazed windows; if the weight of the structure does not scare you, then you don’t have to disassemble the windows. |
| Step 3. | Insert the box into the window opening and secure it to the wall with special dowels. For buildings made of foam blocks, the number of fixation points should be increased; the blocks do not have high physical strength. If it is enough to install two dowels on each side of the box in wood or brick, then foam blocks require at least four. Before fixing, you need to align the box strictly level. Use various supports and wedges during this process. Immediately replace the window sills inside and outside. |
| Step 4. | Seal the cracks polyurethane foam. Very important: foam should be applied only to well-wetted surfaces of the blocks. On dry surfaces the adhesion coefficient is greatly reduced. Unfortunately, most companies involved in window installation skip this operation - for them the main thing is time, not quality. |
| Step 5. | The next day you need to cut off the excess foam. If you notice any gaps, fill them with mortar and level the surfaces. |
That's all, all further work will be done during the cladding of the external and internal walls.
Cladding of external walls
pay attention to comparative characteristics materials for thermal conductivity, we believe that additional insulation is not required for a bathhouse. If you think otherwise, no problem, insulate the bathhouse. Advice - insulate external walls, it is much simpler and cheaper, and the effect is the same. Calculate the total surface area excluding doors and window openings. Buy materials: special glue for foam plastic, dowels and large caps, plastic reinforcing mesh, paint or decorative plaster. For insulation, use foam plastic with a thickness of five centimeters. How to do it?
Step 1. Thoroughly clean the foam block walls from sand and dust.
Step 2. Installation of beacons. Beacons are used during many construction works, do not be “ashamed” to use them. With their help, work is not only speeded up, but its quality is also significantly improved. As beacons, you need to install foam boards at the ends of the bath; glue is used for installation. Stretch a rope between them and check the distance from it to the wall. This distance should include sheets and glue; if there are discrepancies, straighten the wall in problem areas or change the position of the beacons. Specific solution must be taken independently, taking into account the size and location of the irregularities.
Step 3. Glue rows of foam plastic along the rope, constantly checking with a level their spatial position in all directions and sides. If you have experience working with tiles, you don’t have to use ropes; control the position of the sheets with a long, even strip. In window and doorways the foam is cut, the cut points are covered with additional elements: special platbands and slats.
Step 4. Practice shows that expensive glue can be saved without compromising quality. Apply it in the corners and center only for preliminary installation of the foam board; final fixation is performed with special dowels after the glue has hardened, usually the next day. It is the dowels that will hold the insulation.
Step 5. If the surfaces are very uneven, gradually level the rows; the gaps between the slabs can be foamed.
Step 6. Secure the boards with dowels. One dowel should hold one corner of the foam board, another dowel should be installed in the center of the board. A total of five dowels are needed per slab. Some builders try to save money and use one dowel to hold all the corners of four adjacent adjacent sheets of foam plastic. This saving method is risky, decide for yourself whether to use it or do everything according to the rules.
Step 7 Reinforcement with plastic mesh. Please note that the thickness of the glue must be at least 5 millimeters, otherwise you will not be able to completely hide the mesh. The mesh should be hidden by painting with fade-resistant paints (facade). If decorative plaster is planned in the future, there is no need to embed the mesh.
Interior wall cladding
Before covering, electrical wiring must be done; electrical cables must be protected with metal sleeves. The cross-section of the current-carrying conductors is selected taking into account the maximum load and power reserve. Always make a reserve of at least 3–4 kW, this will allow you to safely use additional electrical household appliances or heaters.
For the steam room, be sure to use natural lining; all other rooms can be finished with any building materials. Let's consider the most difficult option wall decoration - natural lining.
Step 1. Mark the wall, determine the places where you will fix the vertical slats. The dimensions of the slats are 20–50 mm, the distance between them is approximately 50 centimeters.
Important: special dowels are available for foam blocks, do not use ordinary ones!
Step 2. The slats should be installed level if there are unevenness on the wall large sizes- they need to be removed. Small irregularities can be eliminated with various supports for the slats.
Step 3. Fasten the two outer slats, stretch the thread between them and install all the rest along it.
Step 4. Check the distance from the floor to the ceiling in the corners. If there is a difference, then saw off the first lining under the right angle to level the horizontal position. It is better to do this at the bottom of the wall, where it is less noticeable.
Step 5. Use small nails to secure the paneling; hammer the nails into the groove at an angle. Make sure all nails fit into the batten. The length of the nails is approximately 2 cm.
Step 6. Beat around the perimeter of the entire room, attach a special wooden corner to the corners to align the cuts. Secure skirting boards and baguettes (on the floor and ceiling).
Some rooms can be finished with sheet plywood, OSB boards or plasterboard. Before starting upholstery work, you need to perform the same complex preparatory work and fastening the supporting frame, as for lining.
Install rainwater drainage pipes. This completes the largest and most labor-intensive construction work. You can start installing the stove, shelves for the steam room, various shelves and benches for bath equipment. And then paint or plaster decorative plaster façade walls.
Video - Project of a one-story VIP bathhouse with a large terrace and barbecue area
— functional area for complete relaxation. She may have different size, be built of timber or brick. For your attention - various projects of such buildings with photos.
When planning to set up a place to relax in their garden plot, many owners dream of making it not only comfortable, but also universal. After all, it should be to the liking of all family members. And you also need to please the guests, fully providing them with entertainment and complete relaxation in the fresh air. Project of a bathhouse with a terrace and barbecue, as well as a relaxation room - good option for such a case. It allows you to realize various ideas and combine them into your own mini-dacha complex.
Plan of a bathhouse with a terrace
There are many advantages to such a 4 in 1 project:
- Saving territory. There is no need to waste space not only on the buildings themselves, but also on the paths connecting one building to another.
- Reduced construction costs. For example, the wall of a bathhouse can simultaneously be the wall of a terrace. In addition, one roof will cost much less than several.
- Organization of comprehensive recreation. You can take a steam bath and then cook dinner using the barbecue - everything is nearby.
- Single style. Often during construction individual buildings the owners forget that all buildings must be in harmony with each other. In a combined project, this design issue is resolved very simply.
Types of bathhouse projects with a relaxation area
The choice of project is largely determined by the size of the land plot. For example, classic version a bathhouse with a terrace measuring 6 x 9 m is suitable for owners of a large area. It will accommodate not only the whole family, but also a large group of friends. In this case, a common foundation is provided for the bathhouse and terrace. If you make the building two-story, then you can place a steam room and barbecue below, and arrange a guest lounge on the second floor.
If you want to attach a bathhouse to your house, use the 6 x 6 project. Thanks to its proportions, it will fit perfectly into the design of any area. This way you will significantly expand the area of the house and get a cozy open place to relax. It is ideal for enjoying fresh air directly from the cottage in any weather.
Bathhouse with veranda Compact on the outside, but roomy on the inside - this is corner bath with a terrace. Often such a project is used in cases where it is necessary to locate a recreation area in close proximity to the house. The terrace adjacent to the cottage can be square or rectangular. However, photos of finished baths confirm that it is the corner platform that allows you to give the entire structure a complete look, as well as effectively manage the territory of your personal plot. Everything can be placed on the ground floor.
Advice. Two-story buildings are optimal if you want to properly plan the area of your land plot and intend to continue construction. For example, add another guest room over time.
Nowadays, entire bathhouse cottages with various extensions, including a terrace, are also popular. On it you can arrange a gazebo, a playground for children, a place for barbecue or dancing. It is convenient to receive and accommodate guests, organize holidays and simply live in the fresh air. To prevent mosquitoes from annoying you in the summer, hang nets or decorative curtains.
Construction planning: timber or brick. Which foundation is better
To implement your favorite bathhouse project with a terrace and barbecue, you need to think carefully about what material to build from. Perhaps one of the best is timber. Its advantages are obvious:
- holds heat well, so additional insulation not required;
- creates an inimitable “bathhouse” atmosphere, because for a long time people have been steaming in wooden buildings;
- regulates indoor humidity. This is possible due to the fact that wood “breathes”;
- allows you to implement non-standard architectural solutions;
- environmental friendliness. It has been proven that wood enhances the healing effect of a bath.
Restroom Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting that the timber is susceptible to mold, as well as its low reliability in terms of fire safety.
Attention! Glued laminated timber and logs are different building materials. The first one is cheaper. Logs can be rounded, planed, etc.
Brick baths are less fire hazardous, but they take longer to warm up, consuming a large amount of fuel. In addition, in such buildings, quality is required. Without it, condensation collects inside, which can cause mold and mildew. Speaking about the advantages of brick, it is necessary to note its environmental friendliness, long term services and the ability to erect a building of almost any shape, which is proven by photos of already erected buildings. It is important that the cost brick baths lower than wooden ones, and they do not require external finishing.
Advice. To build a bathhouse, you can take other materials, for example, gas silicate blocks. Frame houses are also popular because they are inexpensive and can be built quickly.
Depending on the project and building material For its implementation, the basis of the bathhouse is planned - the foundation. He can be:
- Screw. For it, special piles are used on which the structure will stand. Suitable for almost all soil types. Does not require preparatory earthworks. It can be built quickly (in 1-3 days) and at any time of the year.
- Columnar. This is the simplest of all types of foundation, and also the most economical. It can be used to build a small bathhouse with a terrace.
- Tape. The work on its construction is considered quite labor-intensive, so it is advisable to resort to this option in the following cases:
- if your site has complex soil - for example, clay or sand;
- It is planned to build a two-story bathhouse.
Attention! Since a bathhouse is heavier than a terrace, different foundations are usually laid under them.
Tips for designing a recreation area with a sauna, barbecue and terrace
- When planning construction, consider the main wind direction. The bathhouse should cover the terrace from drafts. This is also necessary in order to correctly position the barbecue - it is not very convenient when smoke flies towards vacationers.
- Decide why you need a terrace. If you want to hide from the sun's rays on a hot day, do not choose the south. If you are going to sunbathe, design the location of the terrace on the sunny side.
Bathhouse with barbecue - A terrace in its classic form does not have a roof, but for convenience and protection from bad weather it can be covered, for example, with transparent polycarbonate.
- Regardless of the area of the finished bathhouse, it is necessary to provide for the location of 3 separate rooms: a locker room, a shower room and a steam room.
- To build a barbecue, you should use refractory bricks. In addition, for better fire safety, you can lay out the area around it with ceramic or stone tiles. It is also necessary to make a separate chimney for the barbecue.
- If you plan to use a sauna with a terrace for all year round, take care of heating.
Bathhouse with barbecue area: video
