Treatment of indoor flowers, diseases of indoor flowers. The most common pests and diseases of indoor flowers

The most common plant diseases that occur on indoor flowers are described here. Attention: any plants, if agricultural practices are violated (flooding, hypothermia, overfeeding with fertilizers) or when planted in undisinfected soil, may show signs of several diseases. In the surrounding world there are not one or two types of microorganisms, but millions. We can guess the disease by single characteristic spots. There are specific diseases that cannot be confused with anything: gray rot (long threads of gray mold), powdery mildew (leaves as if covered with white dust), leaf dropsy in succulents (green pimples, the plant is not depressed), ring patterns from viruses and some other.

But very often plants exhibit several diseases at the same time, for example, in orchids, tracheomycosis (fusarium) and at the same time septoria or phyllosticosis. Root rot and Alternaria blight. The good news is that the ones offered to us in the store are usually effective against many diseases. But do not forget that drugs of hazard classes 3 and 4 are allowed for private households (i.e., for the home).

Alternaria and dry spotting

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Alternaria. The fungus mainly affects leaves, sometimes stems and tubers.

Symptoms: Dry brown spots appear first on the lower and then on the upper leaves. Typically, concentric circles are visible on the spots. As the spot enlarges, it gradually turns black, and gray conidia become visible on it.

Frequent temperature changes and changes in humidity contribute to the spread of the disease, i.e. alternating dry and wet periods. But optimal conditions for the development of the fungus at temperatures above about 25-30°C and humidity up to 90%.

Prevention

Avoid crowding the plants; cut out unnecessary branches and leaves during planting. Ventilate the room or greenhouse; if the flowers are on the balcony, make sure there is good ventilation and mold does not grow on the walls - this is an indicator of microclimate disturbances.

Control measures

Fungicides used to combat Alternaria blight:

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• acrobat MC 20 g per 5 liters of water
• oxychome 20 g per 10 liters of water
• home 40 g per 10 liters of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Anthracnose

The causative agent is fungi of the genera Colletotrichum, Gloeosporium, Kabatiella. Palm trees, ficus, anthurium, etc. are more often susceptible.

Symptoms: The disease affects the leaves, stems, petioles and fruits of plants. Spots on different plants, and depending on the pathogen, look different.

• Kabatiella zeae - causes the formation of small round or irregular shape spots, 2-5 mm in diameter with a clear outline. It looks like a yellow spot with a brown or black dot inside. If the spot is larger, instead of a black dot, a dark rim is formed, and inside it is a grayish ring.
• Colletotrichum orbiculare - causes the formation of usually reddish-brown spots, often with a slight yellow border, from 2 to 12 mm. On some plants the spots are pale green. Round or elongated in shape. In the affected areas, the spots merge, dry out, become like parchment, crack, and holes form.
• Colletotrichum trichellum - large yellowish-brown or gray-brown spots on leaves and stems with dark sporulation pads. If you look closely, you will notice that on the spots on the upper side of the leaf, the surface is not smooth, but covered with fluffy hairs of spores, however, the spores are noticeable even when the plant is severely damaged. The spots on the fruit are gray-brown with a dark center, depressed.

Anthracnose develops quickly in greenhouse conditions, i.e. at high air humidity (about 90-100%) and elevated temperature 22-27 °. And also with frequent (several times a day) spraying of plants. The fungus is frost-resistant - it is preserved in plant debris, in seeds and spreads with water when watering.

Prevention

Removing leaves with suspicious spots, disinfecting the soil, treating seeds. Suspicious plants purchased in a store should be quarantined. If there are signs of disease, it is necessary to stop spraying the plants.

Control measures

Spraying is usually enough, three treatments using fungicides:

• oxychome 15-20 g per 10 liters of water
• : 100 g per 10 liters of water
• colloidal sulfur: 50-100 g per 10 liters of water
• strobi fungicide, in a system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 l of water
• abiga-pik: 50 g suspension per 10 liters of water

Ascochyta blight

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Ascochyta. The most severe damage is caused by ascochyta blight of chrysanthemums, which most often affects plants of the Asteraceae family.

Symptoms: at the initial stage, small, only 1-2 mm reddish or brown spots appear on the leaves, sometimes brown, reddish with a yellowish or brown rim, of various shapes. The spots increase in size and acquire a dark brown necrotic hue with a yellowish chlorotic border along the edge. Small black spores of the fungus can only be seen under magnification with a magnifying glass. If the growth of a fungus on a stem rings it, the stem easily breaks.

Sometimes the disease begins with signs of overdrying of the plant - the tips of the leaves begin to dry out, and a dark brown stripe forms at the border with healthy tissue. The pathogen is very resistant to deep temperature changes, i.e. It tolerates both severe drought and soil frost. Preserved on plant debris and seeds. The disease spreads with wind, undisinfected soil, and drops of water.

Prevention and treatment, as with .

Dropsy of leaves (edema)

A disease not caused by a fungus or bacteria, but resulting from waterlogging of the soil, often with insufficient lighting. It usually appears in succulents, typically in peperomia, crassula, Kalanchoe, possibly on pelargonium, schefflera.

Symptoms: the plant, most often, barely noticeable pimples appear on the underside of the leaf, they seem watery, but in fact they are dense, sometimes like cork growths, some look like warts, the color of the leaf can be preserved, i.e. the spots are green and may acquire a gray necrotic color. This is caused by the fact that some of the roots die off (from drying out, waterlogging, hypothermia), and the nutrition through the conducting vessels that were supplied by these roots is disrupted. Since the waterlogging was not severe, the soil had time to dry out, the rotting did not spread further, but the stains remained. The affected leaves will not recover, but if the plant is given good conditions, then the new leaves will be healthy.

The difference between dropsy (edema) and other diseases, root rot, is that the plant is not depressed, it grows noticeably, and the spots themselves are small in patches, affecting 1-3 leaves on the bush. Leaves with dropsy do not turn yellow, do not dry out or fall off!

Treatment and prevention: Adjust watering, do not overwater, loosen the soil after heavy watering and when compacting the soil in the pot. Make up the soil with a high proportion of draining, loosening particles - at least 1/5 or 1/4 of the volume of the pot.

Downy mildew (Peronosporosis)

Pathogens are fungi of the genera Peronospora, Plasmopara, Pseudoperonospora, Mildew. The disease can affect any indoor plants, but the disease is quite rare.

Symptoms: yellow, then brown spots of irregular shape form on the upper side of the leaves; with downy rose of cucumbers, the spots are angular (specific to the structure of the leaf). Gradually, necrosis occurs in these places, and the spots become brown. On the underside of the leaves, at the beginning of the disease there is a light gray coating from the conidial sporulation of the pathogen that emerged on the surface of the leaf through the stomata, then this coating gradually turns black. Diseased leaves turn yellow, become wrinkled or corrugated, wither and dry out. With a severe degree of damage, the pathogen can penetrate the vascular system, which is noticeable on the cut in the form of darkened vessels (mycelium and spores).

The disease predominates on heavy acidic soils. The spread is aggravated by high humidity and poor ventilation. The source of infection is undisinfected soil and seeds.

Prevention

Maintaining low humidity, regular ventilation, thinning and cleaning of bushes. Changing the soil and its disinfection. If signs of the disease have already been detected, avoid spraying and when watering, avoid getting water on the leaves.

Preparing seeds for sowing:

• immersing them in hot water at 50°C for 20 minutes, followed by rapid cooling in cold water for 2-3 minutes
• soaking in a seed protectant, for example, Maxim

Control measures

Removing diseased leaves and severely affected branches. You can use preparations containing copper: oxychome, cuproxate, 1% solution, ordan. These fungicides are more accessible (cheap and effective) for treating garden and vegetable plants. You can get more modern drugs: Quadris, Bravo - but they are not sold in small packages, they are intended only for Agriculture(in cans and bottles), gardeners usually purchase them in collective purchases.

Fungicides available for the simple grower are:

• topaz 4 ml per 10 liters of water
• abiga-pik 50 g suspension per 10 liters of water
• oxychome 15-20 g per 10 liters of water, three times

Start treatment at the first signs of the disease and repeat every 7-10 days, especially carefully treating the underside of the leaves. At least 3-4 treatments are necessary.

Preparations: pureflower, skor, rayok are ineffective against downy mildew.

Powdery mildew

A common plant disease caused by fungi of the species Podosphaera fuliginea, Erysiphe cichoracearum and Oidium - powdery mildew on Oidium grapes.

Symptoms: at the beginning of the disease, small powdery spots appear on flowers and leaves. They are easily erased, but then appear again and increase in size, becoming saturated gray. Gradually the mycelium thickens and becomes almost brown. Powdery coating can be on both sides of the leaf. The leaves gradually dry out, buds and flowers fall off, and plant growth stops. The most favorable conditions for the development of the disease are high humidity - about 60-80% and warm air within 15-26°C.

Of the domestic plants, powdery mildew most often affects: laurel, Saintpaulia, gloxinia, roses, gerberas, Kalanchoe, etc.

Prevention

To prevent powdery mildew indoor plants and flowers can be pollinated with sulfur 3-4 times during the summer. Overfeeding plants with nitrogenous fertilizers, especially during budding, increases the risk of disease powdery mildew. On the contrary, fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers increases resistance to the powdery mildew pathogen. You should also ventilate the room more often, avoiding cold drafts. Pay attention to the bushes and trees that grow under your windows; if they show signs of the disease, you always need to be on alert - fungal spores are easily carried by the wind.

In addition to treatment with sulfur, preventive spraying with whey (reverse) can be carried out. Regular whole milk is also suitable, but whey is preferable (less traces on the leaves), you need to dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:3 and spray the plants. For prevention, repeat after 2 weeks.

Fighting powdery mildew at home

If powdery mildew gets on indoor flowers, and violets (Saintpaulias) and potted gerberas are especially susceptible, indoor roses, then you can use the same means as for garden plants, except for highly toxic ones (Bayleton), but preference should be given to such fungicides as topaz, speed.

You can use the drugs Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok - they are all available in small packaging, contain difenoconazole, dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water. For fruit trees, vegetables and berries, dilute 2 g per 10 liters of water, maximum 4 treatments: the first - on a green cone, the rest - after 12-14 days, stop treatments 20 days before harvest.

It is quite safe to spray against powdery mildew at home with a solution soda ash And copper sulfate: in 1 liter of water, dilute 10 g of soda ash and 2 g of soap (laundry, tar), separately dissolve 2 g of copper sulfate in a glass of water. Pour the copper solution into the soda solution, add water to a liquid volume of 2 liters and spray the plants.

If you heard from someone a recipe for fighting powdery mildew with antibiotics, do not try to repeat it; penicillins, tetracyclines and other antibiotics do not act on fungal infections; in extreme cases, they will help against bacteriosis, but nothing more.

You can use drugs such as Topaz, Vectra, Hom, Oxychom, Bordeaux mixture (1%). How to get rid of powdery mildew on gooseberries, currants, roses and other garden crops - read more:.

Spraying with an iodine solution helps as a prevention and treatment: dilute 1 ml of alcohol pharmaceutical tincture of iodine in 1 liter of water. Roses can be increased in concentration - dilute 1 ml per 400 ml of water.

Septoria

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Septoria.

Symptoms: dark brown or dark gray spots with a yellowish border (on anthurium) or, as on azaleas, small reddish or reddish-yellow spots that gradually increase in size. Then black spots appear in the center on the spots - the fruiting organs of the fungus, which can even overwinter on the leaves when sub-zero temperature and the disease will begin to spread in the spring. Some forms of septoria have different manifestations (depending on the type of plant):

• The causative agent is Septoria albopunctata - looks like small 2-5 mm reddish-purple or brown spots with a gray center. As the disease progresses, the spots increase in size, and in the center of some of them you can see small dark brown or black spores of the fungus. Over time, the spots merge, turn brown, and the leaf dries out. Ideal conditions for the development of the disease are high humidity and temperatures within 28-31°.
• The causative agent Septoria populi, the so-called white spot, first causes the formation of small whitish or gray spots with a brown rim around the edge, round or oval.

Prevention

Removing leaves with suspicious spots, disinfecting the soil, treating seeds. If there are signs of disease, it is necessary to stop spraying the leaves and improve air circulation (ventilation).

Treatment of septoria

When the stains have already appeared and are spreading further, it is necessary to spray using chemicals: among them, a 1% solution (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water, diluted strictly according to the instructions), a solution of copper oxychloride (homogeneous , oxychome), copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water). And:

• colloidal sulfur 50-100 g per 10 liters of water
• strobe in a system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 l of water
• abiga-pik 40-50 g per 10 liters of water
• fungicides: pureflower, speed, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilute 4 ml per 5 liters of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Repeat spraying after 7-10 days.

Gray rot

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Botrytis Botrytis.

Symptoms: most often, the affected areas appear on the stems in the form of a fluffy grayish-olive coating. With further development, the disease spreads to leaves, flower ovaries and fruits.

Over time, the lesion takes on the appearance of dry rot with concentric spots. After a few days, the spot grows and rings the stem. During the first week, there is no sporulation of the fungus on the spot; it turns pale in the center to a straw color, and blurred ring-shaped stripes become visible. Gray rot looks like gray loose cotton wool or mold. Tissue necrosis develops inside the stem, while the vessels die and the movement of water stops. The shoot above this zone withers.

Prevention

Preventive measures include disinfection of the soil during replanting (warming in the oven or microwave), regular ventilation of rooms, removal of dying leaves and thinning of seedlings, good lighting. Avoid waterlogging the soil, especially if it is kept cool, if the flowers are on the balcony in early spring or late summer - autumn. When transplanting, you can add trichodermin, barrier, barrier or phytosporin preparations to the soil (spill the soil).

Control measures

At the first sign of disease, remove diseased leaves and inflorescences. Sprinkle the affected area with charcoal powder, chalk or wood ash. You can make a paste from the trichodermin preparation (moisten a small amount of powder with water) and also coat the affected areas. Spraying with topsin-M solution (0.1%) or phytosporin solution (diluted to tea color). For severe damage, spray:

• (0,2%)
• copper-soap solution: 0.2% copper sulfate and 2% laundry soap
• fungicides: puretsvet, skor, rayok - any, dilute 4 ml per 5 liters of water

Repeated treatments are carried out after 7-10 days.

Sooty fungus

Appears in the form of a dry sooty film on aucubes, buxuses, and laurels. Caused by the fungus Capnopodium, which settles on the secretions of aphids, whiteflies, mealybug. The plaque itself is not dangerous for the plant, but it clogs the stomata on the leaves, thereby disrupting the respiration process. The plant slows down and weakens.

Control measures: timely spraying against pests that produce sweet secretions (aphids, scale insects, thrips). After curing the disease, wipe the affected plants with a sponge dipped in soapy water and rinse with warm clean water, treat with phytosporin: take the liquid or paste and dilute it in a glass of water until it is the color of weak tea. Spray the leaves.

Sometimes sooty fungus settles on the surface of leaves affected by other fungi; carefully examine the nature of the spots and quarantine the plant.

Leaf rust

The causative agent is rust fungi, for example, of the genus Phragmidium or Puccinia.

Symptoms: expressed in the appearance of orange-brown tubercles, sometimes yellow or red round spots, on the upper surface of the leaf. WITH reverse side On the leaf, pustules are clearly visible - pads (like warts) of oval or round shape. Gradually, the spots develop into stripes, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Prevention

The disease is provoked by uneven watering and high air humidity, but even with good care infection is possible at home through cut garden flowers or with new ones purchased in a store potted plants, for example, gerberas. The infection can also occur with garden soil, because rust often affects apple or pear trees.

Control measures

Remove affected leaves and branches. Apply fungicide spray:

• abiga-pik 50 g per 10 liters of water
• Bayleton 1 g per 1 liter of water
• Vectra 2-3 ml per 10 liters of water
• 10 g per 1 liter of water
• oxychome 15-20 g per 10 liters of water
• ordan 20 g per 5 liters of water
• strobes
• 4 ml per 10 liters of water
• home 40 g per 10 liters of water

Repeat the treatment 2-3 times after 10 days. Biological products do not help against rust: phytosporin, bactofit, etc.

Phyllosticosis (brown spot)

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Phyllosticta. Among domestic flowers, hibiscus, roses, orchids, etc. are susceptible to the disease.

Symptoms: Small, dark reddish or dark purple dots initially appear on affected plants. They enlarge and turn into brown spots with a purple, almost black border around the edge. The middle of the spot becomes thinner, dries out, and in plants with non-leathery leaves falls out and holes form. When examined through a magnifying glass, black round spores can be seen on the brown areas of the spot. The disease spreads with wind, undisinfected soil, and drops of water.

Phyllosticosis of orchids manifests itself in small spots about 2 mm in diameter, dark brown in color, slightly depressed, no holes are formed, the disease is often called “black spotting”, since the leaf is dotted with small spots like a rash - the spots do not merge into large ones, they remain scattered, but the leaf turns yellow, and then fungal spores become noticeable. The disease spreads quite quickly, since orchids are often in the atmosphere high humidity air.

Prevention

Compliance with the rules of care and hygiene - timely watering when necessary, but not more often, pour water only at the root, water should not get on the root collar or in the axils of the leaves. Use only warm water for irrigation, without chlorine and salts (iron, calcium). Make sure plants have enough light; weakened, chlorotic leaves are more susceptible to infection. Ventilate the house or rooms, avoiding drafts. Ventilation should be very good - indicator proper ventilation- absence of mold in the bathroom, around the perimeter of the window frame, and in the corners of the rooms. Observe temperature regime, take into account the specific requirements of orchids and other plants - deviation from the norm and usual care weakens the immune system.

Treatment of phyllosticosis

• Vectra fungicide - dilute 2-3 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water
• abiga-pik - 50 g per 5 liters of water
• strobe - 4 g per 10 liters of water
• oxychome 20 g per 10 liters of water
• fungicides: pure flower, speed, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilute 1 ml per 1 liter of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying at the first signs of disease or preventive, then subsequent ones at intervals of 7-10 days. In some plants, you can safely remove the affected leaves (for example, in hibiscus); in orchids, do not rush to cut out the affected areas to healthy tissue, this can weaken the plants even more. You can trim the leaf only when it has already turned very yellow. For the rest, treat by spraying.

Root rot

This is a group of diseases caused by a number of pathogenic fungi of the genera: Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Phytophthora etc. All these diseases sooner or later appear on the crown and tops of plants, but infection begins through the root system. If the pathogen is serious and the plant is young (cuttings, seedlings, seedlings), then the leaves do not even have time to begin to turn yellow - the roots and lower part of the stem quickly rot.

Orchids, Saintpaulias, cacti and succulents are most susceptible to root rot. The reason is a violation of agricultural technology.

Black leg is the scourge of seedlings, manifested in the rotting of the lower part of the shoot or cuttings. Rot is the most typical - blackening, softening of tissues. Most of the blackleg affects when the soil is waterlogged, poor aeration, if the lumps of earth are so dense that there is a constant anaerobic environment around the roots. The source of infection is unsterilized soil mixtures, equipment, pots and planting boxes after diseased plants.

Late blight

This is a type of root rot. In this case, the plant first slows down its growth, fades somewhat, the leaves lose color, become pale, only then the roots rot and the plant dies. The first impression with this disease is that the plant does not have enough water, but after watering the turgor is not restored, and the leaves wither even more. In plants with dense leaves, the leaves do not fade, but become covered with extensive brown spots that start from the central vein.

Prevention

Choose the right soil for your plants, add more porous, draining materials to structure the soil. Do not use fine river sand or sand from a children's sandbox (quarry sand) - it cements the earthen mixture! Use small pebbles with a particle size of 3-4 mm, these can be bought in specialized departments and aquarium stores, or sift river pebbles. When planting, add the drug to the pot with the plant.

Make sure that the soil does not become waterlogged, water after the permissible degree of drying: if it is indicated that watering is abundant, it means that the soil in the pot should have time to dry out approximately 1/2 or 1/3 of the top part of the pot before the next watering. If you stick your finger into the soil, you will find that the soil on top is dry, but the inside of the pot is slightly wetter (cooler) - then you can water it.

If moderate watering is recommended for the plant, then the soil should dry out completely - if you immerse your finger in the pot, it should also be dry inside (the finger does not feel that it is cooler or wetter there). Of course, you don't have to stick your fingers into the soil before every watering. Just wait for the soil to dry out on top and wait another 2-3 days before watering so that it has time to dry out in the depths as well. And if it suddenly gets colder and the temperature drops, you may need to wait even longer - 5-7 days before the next watering.

To propagate indoor plants, cut off only healthy cuttings and leaves. Be sure to sterilize the soil for planting cuttings, especially if you are growing plants that are very susceptible to late blight and root rot (for example, gesneriaceae, gardenias, schefflera). Old, already used pots in which the plants have died must be scalded with boiling water.

Before planting, soak the seeds in a disinfectant, use, for example, the drug Maxim.

Control measures

With a large development of root rot, when a significant part of the roots has died, and most of the shoots have drooped and lost their elasticity, treatment is useless. If the tip of a petiole or twig turns black during rooting, you can cut it off, drop phytosporin into the water and put it back to rooting.

If the plant shows signs of wilting, and the soil is damp, you must immediately remove the plant from the pot. Rinse the root system, remove rot. If there are still healthy roots, treat them (soak for a few minutes) in a fungicide solution:

• Alirin B - 2 tablets per 10 liters of water
• gamair - 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• ordan 5 g per 1 liter of water
• 3 ml per 2 liters of water
• bactofit 10 ml per 5 liters of water
• oxychome 10 g per 5 liters of water
• home 20 g per 5 liters of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spotting

This is a whole group of diseases that are both fungal and bacterial in nature.

Pathogens - fungi of the genera Ascochyta, Colletotrichum, Phyllosticta, Pestalotia, Septoria, Vermicularia etc. Spots are diseases whose causative agent is difficult to identify; it can be anthracnose, septoria, phyllostictosis, ascochyta, but the specificity of the spots is not expressed. In this case, brown spots appear on the leaves of the plant, which grow in size as the disease spreads, merge and affect the entire leaf. If the plant is strong enough, resistant to disease, or very well cared for, the spots grow slowly and the leaves dry out just as slowly.

Spot prevention

Violations of living conditions contribute to the development of diseases. This waterlogging is especially aggravated by hypothermia of the root system (after watering with cold water or during transportation from the store to home during the cold season). Spots can also develop in warm, humid conditions, especially if there is poor air circulation and planting in dense clay soil.

Avoid crowding plants and overwatering. Regularly ventilate the room, greenhouses and provide good lighting. For prevention, water the plants with a solution of the drug or Bactofit. You can add tablets of the drug to pots when planting.

Control measures

IN garden conditions You need to collect and destroy any plant debris with stains from dead plants. Trim affected leaves and branches of house flowers. Spray with fungicides that can cope with most fungal infections.

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• acrobat MC 20 g per 5 liters of water
• oxychome 20 g per 10 liters of water
• home 40 g per 10 liters of water
• Alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
• 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture (100 g copper sulfate + 100 g lime per 10 liters of water)
• copper sulfate: 100 g per 10 liters of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

At home, you should try to treat indoor flowers for spots with more affordable and by simple means: use the drugs Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok - they are all available in small packaging, contain the same active ingredient - difenoconazole, you need to dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water. Spray the leaves with the solution, repeat after 2 weeks. Add zircon to the solution of these fungicides Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok (6 drops per 1 liter of solution).

Red burn

The causative agent is a fungus of the genus Stangospora Staganospora. A disease characteristic of hippeastrums and some bulbous plants.

Symptoms: red narrow spots appear on the leaves and peduncles, on which spore-bearing crusts subsequently form; the scales of the bulbs turn completely red. A diseased plant begins to deform the leaves and flowers, flowering does not begin or stops, and the bulbs rot.

Treatment

Treatment of bulbs with fungicides. You can use the drug Maxim (soaking the bulbs), but it can cause burns to the primordia of the leaves and peduncle - their tips have a very thin epidermis. The third photo shows burns from the drug Maxim, although the bulbs are cured, the burns will remain.

You can treat red burn of hippeastrum with other fungicides:

• foundationhol (benomyl) 1 g per 1 liter of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water
• oxychome 4 g per 1 liter of water

Black spot

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Rhytisma, Dothidella.

Symptoms:

• Rhytisma acerinum - causes the formation of large round spots, initially yellowish and blurry. Then black dots appear on them, which gradually merge and form black shiny stroma (nodules), surrounded by a yellowish border. Sometimes there may be no yellowing around the black stromas.
• Rhytisma salicinum - causes similar lesions, only the spots are more convex, more angular in shape, large and small.
• Rhytisma punctatum - causes the appearance of small, dotted or teardrop-shaped, shiny black and convex stromas.
• Dothidella ulmi - causes the formation of grayish-black, rounded stroma; they are convex, shiny at first, later rough, like warts.

A combination of conditions contributes to the spread of the disease: high air humidity, shading and high temperatures.

Control measures

Spraying with fungicides:

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• acrobat MC 20 g per 5 liters of water
• benomyl (foundazole) 1 g per 1 liter of water
• Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
• oxychome 20 g per 10 liters of water
• home 40 g per 10 liters of water
• Alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying three times every 10 days.

Tracheomycosis

Tracheomycosis is a group of diseases called vascular wilts- pathogens enter through the roots and infect the vascular system of plants, clog the lumens of blood vessels with their mycelium, release toxins, the plant does not receive water and nutrients and begins to wither.

Tracheomycosis includes diseases such as:

• verticillium wilt (verticillium wilt)
• fusarium wilt (fusarium wilt)
• malsecco in citrus fruits

The symptoms are very similar, all diseases are diagnosed only in a laboratory, all are incurable, they are detected at the stage when pathogenic fungi have already poisoned the vascular system, this is something like blood poisoning in animals. Orchids, phalaenopsis, dendrobiums, cattleyas, etc. especially suffer from tracheomycosis. Other indoor flowers: fuchsias, roses, impatiens, begonias, geraniums; from garden: petunias, carnations, chrysanthemums, asters, dahlias. Vegetables that are prone to tracheomycosis are: cabbage, celery, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, lettuce, melons, potatoes, pumpkin, radishes, rhubarb.

There are also plants resistant to tracheomycosis: Saintpaulia, ageratum, gypsophila, mallow, periwinkle, primrose, zinnia, asparagus, ferns, philodendrons. Of the vegetables, only corn and asparagus can resist.

In foreign practice, all tracheomycosis wilts are called simply: wilt - from wilt - to fade.

Verticillium wilt

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Verticillium. It reproduces exclusively asexually - by conidia, affects plant roots and poisons xylem tissue: it grows and reproduces systemically throughout the plant.

Symptoms: at the initial stages of the disease, the lower leaves acquire a grayish-greenish color due to the development of interveinal necrosis. The leaf tissue between the veins turns brown and dries out. Then wilting begins, most of the leaves, starting from the bottom, turn yellow, curl and dry out. On a section of the stem, browning of the vessels is noticeable. The lumens of the vessels are filled with thin multicellular mycelium. Plants are stunted, develop poorly, and then die. Sometimes the disease manifests itself on the plant in the drying out and death of individual branches of the bush. If conditions are favorable, the disease spreads to other branches and the entire plant dies quite quickly. If conditions are unfavorable for the development of the fungus, the disease can drag on for months and part of the plant looks healthy, while part dies.

The pathogen persists in the soil in the form of microslerotia for several years. Optimal temperature for germination of sclerotia 25-27°, humidity 60-70%. The fungus is most likely to develop on soil with a neutral pH value of 7-7.5. Fungal spores germinate and penetrate the conductive tissue, where mycelium develops, causing blockage of blood vessels. Since there is a gradual clogging of the vessels from the bottom up, the withering of the leaves begins with the lower leaves and gradually covers the entire plant.

Prevention

Do not use garden soil for indoor plants without pre-treatment: pour a 5 cm layer onto a baking sheet, heat it to maximum temperature 20 minutes. Disinfect seeds by heating and disinfectants (for example, Maxim fungicide)

Control measures

Chemical agents, due to the unique biology of the pathogen (development in the soil and spread through conducting vessels), are ineffective. Treatment is possible only in the initial stages, by spraying with foundationazole, Vectra (3 ml per 10 liters of water) or topsin-M at a concentration of 0.2%.

Fusarium (fusarium wilt)

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Fusarium.

Fusarium develops only on weakened plants, primarily in dying areas. The course of the disease can follow the type of tracheomycosis wilt or with root rotting. Plants are affected at any age. The fungus is found in the soil and penetrates the plant through the soil and wounds, with water from natural sources, or with a non-sterile instrument during grafting or pruning. Increased air and soil humidity contributes to the spread of the disease.

Symptoms: In young plants, the disease manifests itself in the form of rotting of the roots and root collar. In these places, the tissues turn brown, the stem becomes thinner, and the leaves turn yellow. In affected plants, the tips of the shoots wither (loss of turgor), and then the entire shoot. This happens, as in the case of verticillium infection, due to blockage of blood vessels by toxins and enzymes secreted by fungi. Therefore, darkening of the vessels is also visible on the cross section. But sometimes tracheomycosis appears only on part of the crown, the rest remains healthy for the time being - then the bush or tree becomes depressed and individual branches droop. If you take cuttings from healthy branches at the right time (the cut is clean without darkening), you can root and get a healthy plant.

The speed of the disease depends on how favorable the conditions are for the development of the fungus. With high soil and air humidity, as well as temperatures above 18°C, the disease can destroy the entire plant in a few days. If the humidity is low, the disease can develop into chronic form, then the plant slowly fades over 3-4 weeks.

Control measures

Removal and destruction of the plant along with a lump of earth. Disinfect pots with a 5% solution of copper sulfate, bleach, or at least scald with boiling water.

If wilting has just begun, you can try treating the plant with fungicides:

• Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
• benomyl (foundazole) 1 g per 1 liter of water for orchids, 1 g per 100 ml
• Alirin B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying three times, with an interval of 7-10 days.

How to treat orchids: get rid of the old substrate (throw it away, or boil the bark for at least half an hour). Cut off rotten roots. Prepare a fungicide solution and thoroughly spray the root system and leaves. Leave to dry. Plant in fresh substrate (large pieces of bark, polystyrene foam, cork). Do not spray, water by immersion as needed for a short time (5 minutes is enough). It is advisable to keep sick orchids at a temperature of 23-24°C, without drafts, in very intense but diffuse lighting (possibly under lamps).

The soil for large plantings (growing seedlings and transplanting tub plants) can be prepared by watering it thoroughly with a solution of potassium permanganate ( Pink colour), the drug, Maxim, or the addition of trichodermin. When working, sterilize tools - a knife, scissors and even garter material (wire, thread) with alcohol.

A healthy indoor plant, full of strength and energy, is a joy for the gardener. However, sometimes such a beautiful picture is spoiled by the appearance of pests or diseases. The reason for this may be the artificial climate, improper care, inappropriate pot size for the plant, “penetration” of pests.

It is important to take the necessary measures in time so that the flower does not die. And for this it is important to know the signs of the appearance of a particular disease or pest, detect them in time and treat them correctly.

Let's look at the most popular diseases of indoor plants.

Powdery mildew

Bellows or powdery mildew on houseplants is a widespread fungal disease among flowers.

The first manifestations are the appearance of small white spots similar to starch or flour. They are easy to wash. Over time, they increase, covering the entire area of ​​the leaf, and then the entire plant. The color changes from white to gray and then to brown. The leaves “shrink” and fall off. Such plaque can appear both on the inside and on the outside of the leaf.

The cause of the disease may be:

• Increased air humidity;
• High temperature in the room;
• Sudden temperature changes;
• Excessive feeding with nitrogenous fertilizers.

Powdery mildew especially often affects (violets). It is especially important for owners of these plants to regularly inspect the plants for signs of disease and carry out preventative measures.

One way to treat powdery mildew on indoor plants is to sprinkle the plant with ground sulfur. Before this, you need to spray the flower with water. When carrying out the procedure, it is important to take precautions and wash everything thoroughly after it. Spraying the flower with a solution consisting of 25 g of soda, 20 g of laundry soap and 5 liters of water is also effective.

Fungicides– biological or chemicals to fight diseases - such as Topaz, Skor, Vectra, are also effective in treating powdery mildew.

Aphids on houseplants

Aphids are clearly visible to the naked eye on flowers and the underside of young leaves.

Particularly susceptible to aphid attacks are carnations, roses, fuchsias, and the aroid family: , caladium, .

If only a few pests are found on the plant, it is enough to crush them and wash the flower with soapy water. If the plant is affected by a colony of aphids, then more serious measures are needed.

Before getting rid of aphids on indoor plants, the flower is washed with soapy water., pests are removed mechanically if possible.

Then three or four times of treatment with one of the following drugs is carried out at intervals of a week:

Treat the plant 3-4 times a week

Spraying with infusion of wormwood, tobacco, tansy, marigold or dandelion;

• Dusting with DDT powder, tobacco dust or wood ash;
• Spraying with a solution of pyrethrum in a proportion of 1 g per 0.5 l of water;
• Use of insecticides: Fas, Decis, Karate, Cypermethrin.

Fighting aphids on indoor plants is not an easy task.

Spider mite

A common pest of indoor plants is the spider mite - a barely noticeable spider of a yellowish, red or brown color. Spider mites feed on plant sap. It is found mainly on the lower parts of the leaves, and in case of severe infection - on the tops of the shoots.

Spider mites attack almost all indoor flowers, especially blooming ones.. At first, small yellowish spots appear on the leaves, then they increase in size. The leaf gradually dries out and falls off. A fine web may be visible between the leaves and stem. Particularly favorable conditions for the pest - heat and low humidity.

The following steps can be taken:

• Regularly spray the plant with water to increase humidity;
• Wash the leaves with warm soapy water;
• Short sessions (2 minutes) of ultraviolet irradiation from below the plant;
• Take the flower out into the garden or onto the balcony;
• Use drugs: Aktelik, Fitoverm, Neoron.

Trips

Thrips are small (up to 2 mm) insect pests of dark brown or black color. They have two pairs of wings, thanks to which they move quickly and can infect a large number of plants. They reproduce quickly. They settle mainly on the lower part of the leaves of the flower, along the veins. They feed on the sap of the plant, first scraping the skin from it.

Brownish spots are visible on the underside of damaged leaves, which have a light tint on the upper side.

If left untreated, the leaves gradually dry out and fall off. Plant growth slows down.

Particular harm is caused to flowers. They are losing the beautiful appearance, become deformed and spots appear on them.

Also on the plant are visible traces of the vital activity of thrips: streaks of a silvery hue on the flowers and leaves.

In hot weather, it is important to spray the flower with water to avoid excessive dry air. Regular inspection of the lower surfaces of leaves will help to notice and eliminate the problem in time. Washing the flower with soapy water will help get rid of most of the pests.

Effective remedies against thrips are:

• Spraying with tedion (25%) with thiophos (0.05%);
• Twice spraying with pyrethrum solution (1 g per 0.5 l of water) with an interval of a week;
• Treatment with infusion of tobacco and yarrow;
• Use of drugs Nurell-D, Vertimek;
• Use of phosphamide or metaphos (toxic).

This article is often read with:

Shchitovka

Scale insects are insect pests up to 3 mm in size with a brown, gray or yellowish tint. They are covered with a wax “shield”, hence the name. They stick tightly to the leaves, especially on the underside.

Pests can be seen with the naked eye. Damaged leaves may become deformed and brown-yellow spots appear on them. Growth and development are suspended, and the affected areas may die.

The pest shield protects them from most insecticidal drugs. Treatment for scale insects on indoor plants is: scraping insects from flowers.

Then the flower is treated with warm water with laundry soap dissolved in it. An infusion of tobacco dust in a proportion of 40 grams per 0.5 liter of water is also effective.

Chervets

The mealybug is a close relative of the scale insect. Affects shoots, leaves, buds. The damaged areas appear strewn with cotton-like fluff. Placed in colonies.

White “fluffy” formations are clearly visible on the lower parts of the leaves. The plant is stunted in growth, the leaves wither, turn yellow, and gradually fall off.

The mealybug affects fuchsia, palm, lemon, azalea, asparagus, begonia, dracaena, and others.

It is necessary to mechanically remove pests with a cotton swab dipped in soapy solution. Treatment with alcohol or calendula tincture is also effective. Applicable insecticides include: Nurell-D, Aktelik, Vertimek.

Earthworms

Due to the wide passages of earthworms, the plant may not receive enough moisture. In the absence of organic residues, they can switch to the living roots of the flower. The plant may gradually wither.

The flower pot should be placed in warm water for 30 minutes. The worms will come out on their own and can be removed. When transplanting, adults are easy to see and remove.

Springtails

Springtails are small, hopping, white insect pests. They appear on the surface of the earth in pots with any plants. The cause of infection can be excessive watering and high humidity.

Watering must be reduced so that the soil dries out a little.. The soil in the pot must be sprinkled with dry sand.

Knowledge of the signs of major diseases and pests, as well as effective ways combating them will help maintain the health and beauty of green “pets”!

Downy mildew

Downy mildew is a fairly rare fungal disease. Affects all types of plants.

The first sign of the disease is the appearance of irregularly shaped yellow spots on the upper side of the leaves. Gradually they increase in size, and necrosis forms in their center. On the underside of the leaf you can see a light gray coating of fungal spores.

Over time, the plaque turns black, and the affected leaves become deformed, turn yellow and dry out. When a plant is severely damaged, the fungus penetrates its vascular system. When cut, the leaf veins are dark in color.

The cause of the disease is the presence of fungal spores in the soil used for planting indoor plants. The spread of the disease is facilitated by high humidity and lack of fresh air in the room. The disease most often occurs in flowers growing on acidic clay soils.

Fungicidal drugs are used for treatment. They spray the plant at the first signs of the disease. The treatment is repeated every 10 days until the disease disappears completely.

As a preventive measure, mandatory disinfection of soil mixtures for plants should be carried out. It is also necessary to observe the watering regime and prevent stagnation of water in the soil.

Mosaic disease

Mosaic disease is a common viral disease of indoor and garden plants. The virus enters through damaged tissue. The pathogen can persist for a long time in the soil or on plant debris.

The first signs of the disease are light spots of various shapes on the surface of young leaves. Over time, the spots increase in size and can cover the entire leaf blade. Affected plants are severely retarded in growth and development. Their leaves become smaller and take on an irregular shape.

The cause of the disease is damage to shoots and leaves by pests, resulting in the penetration of the virus. The development of the disease is promoted by an increase in temperature to 30ºС.

There are no effective treatments for mosaic disease. In a plant partially infected with a virus, all diseased areas can be removed. In case of severe damage, it is recommended to destroy the diseased plant.

To prevent this disease, it is necessary to observe the thermal regime in the room with plants. Ticks, aphids, bedbugs and other pests that contribute to the spread of the disease are destroyed.

Anthracnose

This is a fungal disease that affects the leaf blades, shoots and fruits of the plant. Ficus and palm trees are most often affected. various types.

A symptom of the disease is the appearance of dark spots on the leaves and shoots of the plant.. There are several pathogenic fungi that cause anthracnose, so the external manifestation of the disease depends on the type of pathogen.

The spots come in various sizes and shapes with a yellowish, reddish or brown color. Over time, the disease leads to the death of leaves and shoots. Its development is promoted by increased humidity and air temperature.

To combat the disease, fungicidal preparations are used: Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, colloidal sulfur. In order to prevent the disease, it is recommended to steam the soil before planting, treat the seeds, and keep newly acquired plants in quarantine.

Ascochyta blight

This fungal disease is quite rare. Affects all types of plants, but is most difficult to tolerate indoor chrysanthemums. The causative agent is a fungus of the genus Ascochyta.

At the beginning of the disease, small, up to 2 mm in size, brownish or reddish spots appear on the leaves and shoots of the plant. As the disease progresses, the spots increase in size and become dark brown with a yellow border. Developing necrosis leads to the death of leaves and breaking of shoots.

Pathogenic fungi spread through soil and water and are carried by wind. They are extremely resistant to temperature changes and can withstand both significant heating and freezing.

Various fungicidal preparations are used for treatment. The diseased plant is sprayed with them every 7-10 days until the infection is completely destroyed. For preventative purposes, it is recommended to heat the purchased soil mixture in the oven, remove and destroy all suspicious leaves and shoots of the plant.

Septoria

This is a common fungal disease. Its causative agents are fungi of the genus Septoria.

On the leaves of plants affected by septoria, dark spots irregular shape. Gradually they increase, spreading to the entire leaf blade. As the disease progresses, the leaves dry out. Complete loss of foliage ends in the death of the plant.

The pathogens are found in the soil, but the disease itself may not manifest itself unless ideal conditions are created for the fungus. It reproduces well in conditions of high humidity and temperatures not lower than 28ºС.

To treat the disease, such popular antifungal drugs are used as Bordeaux mixture, colloidal sulfur and others. There is also a wide range of special fungicidal preparations for indoor plants.

To prevent septoria, it is necessary to follow the watering regime and not to over-moisten the soil. It is useful to create air circulation in the room and reduce humidity. Be sure to disinfect the new soil mixture and treat the seeds.

Fusarium

Fusarium or Fusarium wilt is a very common infection that affects all types of indoor plants. The causative agent of the disease is a fungus of the genus Fusarium.

The pathogenic fungus that causes Fusarium wilt develops in plant tissues, clogging its conducting vessels. In the initial stages, this disease cannot be detected by eye. It becomes visible only over time, when the leaves of the plant massively turn yellow, curl and wither. The appearance of rot with a pink coating at the base of the stem indicates infection with fusarium.

The source of fusarium most often becomes soil and planting material. The development of the disease is promoted by insufficient lighting and elevated air temperatures.

To treat the disease, fungicidal drugs are used: Fitosporin, Trichodermatitis, Baktofin. To prevent infection, diseased and suspicious plants and seedlings are discarded, and bulbs and seeds are treated with biological fungicides.

A weak solution of potassium permanganate has a good preventive effect. It is used to water the plant once at the root after planting.

Rust on plants

Rust is a common fungal disease of garden plants. Under favorable conditions, it can affect various indoor species.

At the beginning of the disease, small brown round bumps appear on the leaves of the plants. On the reverse side of the leaf, oval pads are visible - pustules. The spread of infection leads to an increase in the number of tubercles. The leaves turn completely yellow and fall off.

Pathogenic fungi can enter indoor plants with soil. If the fruit trees in the garden are affected by rust, then you cannot take soil for planting from this garden. Favorable conditions for the development of the disease are created by high air humidity.

Treatment of the disease is only possible with early stages . To do this, remove all affected areas of the plant and treat it fungicidal preparations. They use traditional preparations (Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate) and modern antifungal compounds for indoor plants. Oksikom, Ordan and Topaz give good results. Fitosporin and Baktofit are not effective against rust.

For prevention, it is necessary to follow the watering regime, do not over-moisten the soil and ventilate the room. New planting material and soil mixture are disinfected.

Gray rot

This fungal disease is found everywhere. Its pathogens can remain in the soil or on plant debris for a long time without losing their pathogenic properties.

Gray mold looks like gray mold with an olive tint. It is formed on the shoots of the plant. The affected areas expand over time. If rot surrounds the shoot, it stops growing and dies. Subsequently, the gray coating spreads to the leaves of the plant.

Pathogenic fungi are spread by wind and water. They enter plant tissues through external damage. Very often, the cause of gray rot is damage to the plant by pests. This is also facilitated by high humidity and poor lighting.

For minor lesions, diseased leaves are removed, and the plant itself is treated with fungicides Fitosporin and Topsin-M. To treat a severely affected plant, Fundazol is used. Flowers are sprayed with these preparations, and re-treatment is carried out after 7-10 days.

For the purpose of prevention, the soil is disinfected, the premises are ventilated, the lighting is increased, and dying leaves are removed. When keeping plants cool, it is necessary to avoid waterlogging of the soil.

Root rot

Root rot– a whole group of fungal diseases that are caused by pathogenic fungi of various types. They affect all types of indoor plants except the most moisture-loving ones. Particularly susceptible to these infections are plants that cannot tolerate waterlogging - cacti and other succulents.

Infection begins through the root system. Therefore, in the early stages this disease is difficult to diagnose. Over time, if the plant is large enough and overgrown, its leaves begin to turn yellow and wither. Black rot becomes visible at the bottom of the stem. The plant dies. Young specimens rot much faster; their leaves do not even have time to turn yellow.

The source of infection is unsterilized soil, pots and equipment. The development of the disease is facilitated by stagnation of moisture in the soil at low temperatures, as well as dense soil, which prevents the penetration of oxygen to the roots of the plant.

In the early stages of the disease, the plant is saved by immediate transplantation into new sterile soil. The root system is inspected and rotten roots are removed. Good results are obtained by adding Fundazol solution to the soil after transplanting at the root. If the root rots completely, the plant must be destroyed.

To prevent root rot, thoroughly disinfect the soil, flower pots and tubs. When watering indoor flowers, do not over-moisten the soil in the pot. Excess water from the trays must be drained regularly. During cold wintering Watering the plants is noticeably reduced.

Jaundice

This common and very dangerous viral disease affects almost all types of indoor plants. The causative agent is the Leptomotropus callistephi virus.

Plants infected with the virus have leaves that change color. Yellow and yellowish-white small areas form on them. Over time, there are more and more such areas, the leaves change shape, and new ones grow deformed. The shoots are also deformed, the flowers become smaller and do not bear fruit. The infected specimen develops poorly and is severely stunted in growth.

The jaundice virus is spread by pests of garden and indoor plants. It enters tissues through external damage.

There is no effective treatment for jaundice. In the initial stages of the disease, all affected shoots are removed and the sections are disinfected with alcohol. If the plant is completely infected, it is destroyed.

For preventive purposes, pests that transmit viruses from diseased plants to healthy ones are destroyed. Affected plants are not used for cuttings.

Whiteflies

A common pest of garden and indoor plants. Affects most species in indoor culture.

Whiteflies breed on indoor plants in large quantities. They are visible to the naked eye. These are small whitish midges that fly up from a flower when you touch it with your hand. They live on the underside of leaves, often completely covering them. This is where they lay their eggs.

Whiteflies feed on plant sap. They, like aphids, secrete a sticky liquid that covers the leaf blades, preventing the penetration of oxygen to them.

If a pest is detected, measures to destroy it must immediately begin.

Insecticidal preparations are used to control the pest. But it is very difficult to fight this insect. When sprayed, the whiteflies fly away, and then, when the drug has evaporated, they land on the plant again.

Complete destruction of insects takes at least 1 month. Every week it is necessary to spray not only the affected plants, but also neighboring plants. Window sills should also be treated window frames where whiteflies may be found. Usually drugs such as Vertimex, Fitoverm or Actelik are used

Sticky traps are also used to control insects. They will help get rid of scattered whiteflies.

Prevention of diseases in indoor plants

Even if you know how to treat diseases of indoor flowers, it is always easier to prevent the disease.

To your indoor flower has always been beautiful and healthy, regular disease prevention is necessary. The preventive action plan includes compliance correct mode watering and maintaining the required air humidity. It is recommended to spray the plants weekly with infusions of chamomile and sage to boost their immunity. After watering, excess water from the trays must be drained

It is useful to regularly ventilate the room where indoor flowers grow. After all, many fungal infections develop only with very high humidity and stagnant air. When airing, flowers should be taken out of the room.

To prevent all diseases, regular feeding of plants is necessary to strengthen their immunity.. Indoor plants are fed 1-2 times a season organic fertilizers. From late spring to mid-autumn it is recommended to fertilize with liquid every 2 weeks. complex fertilizers. There are compositions for decorative deciduous and for flowering plants. No fertilizing is carried out throughout the second half of autumn and winter.

Before transplanting plants, the new soil must be disinfected. You can steam it or heat it in microwave oven. Before sowing, seeds are soaked in solutions of antifungal drugs.

Most viral infections enter plant tissue through external damage. To prevent them, it is necessary to destroy harmful insects that damage leaves and shoots.

Now you know everything about diseases and pests of indoor plants and flowers.

Preface

When diseases of indoor plants begin to bother keepers hearth and home, the thought immediately arises that nothing can save your favorite flower. Remember, there is always a way out. The main thing is to detect the disease in time, and our advice, which has been proven in action more than once, will help you cope with everything else.

In most cases, the development of disease in indoor plants is facilitated by improper care - a fairly long absence of watering and drying out of the earthen coma, followed by abundant watering. Other common factors include use for moisturizing cold water and lack of necessary room ventilation.

Dropsy on a plant leaf

The first signs of the appearance of dropsy are clearly visible - a yellow border along the edges of the leaves, as well as the formation of small convex brown growths, as shown in the photo. Due to the death of these areas, yellow spots appear on the reverse side of the leaf blade. If nothing is done, the growths increase and gradually occupy the entire leaf area, as a result the leaves wither and fall off. The most sensitive to this type of disease are indoor plants such as hibiscus, kalanchoe and pelargonium.

Get rid of dropsy initial stage possible without using chemicals. To do this, you will need to balance the watering and move the flower pot to a warmer place with more light. If the damage is severe enough, it is time to change the drainage. Carefully remove the plant, add new drainage, about 3 cm high, to the bottom of the pot, and lay a layer of sorbent, for example Agrovermiculite. And to strengthen the immune system, do not forget about feeding mineral fertilizers with calcium and potassium nitrate. A potato decoction is ideal, which can be used to occasionally moisten the soil.

This disease is classified as a fungal disease that mainly affects leaves and stems, and in rare cases flowers. A sign of infection is a characteristic white powdery coating, clearly visible in the photo, which can slightly change its color from light brown to brown. Often, powdery mildew leaves behind holes in the leaves, significantly deforming healthy plant tissue.

Rust on a rose leaf

In addition to true powdery mildew, downy mildew can also be distinguished. Their symptoms are very similar, however, unlike the original, this disease affects only the leaves, leaving dark, almost black spots on them. Most often this disease can be found in chrysanthemums, begonias, bells, Kalanchoe and cineraria . Among the main reasons that provoke the appearance of powdery mildew are irregular watering, prolonged stagnation of liquid in the soil and sudden temperature changes, especially in winter. For the normal functioning of your flower, you must constantly monitor the maintenance of the required temperature and humidity. And in case of infection, remove the affected areas in a timely manner.

Among chemical agents, fungicides of the sulfur group have proven themselves especially well - colloidal sulfur, ISO, ground sulfur, solbar, and when fighting downy mildew, copper group fungicides - Bordeaux mixture, Cuprozan, copper sulfate, AB preparation, copper oxychloride. However, to achieve the desired result, it is necessary to treat plaque with these drugs at least 3 times with an interval of 10 days. Additionally, you can use folk remedies: spraying with a solution of potassium permanganate or soap with soda.

If you notice reddish-brown accumulations on the leaves and stem of a plant, it is most likely affected by spores of the rust fungus. As a result, the upper part of the plant loses its attractiveness and subsequently fades. If you do not fight the disease, the plant may dry out completely and die. This disease poses a particular danger to pelargoniums, camellias, asparagus, and citrus fruits (pictured). The reasons for its development are known - dry air and dry soil. As a preventive measure, provide the plant with regular watering, humidify the air and treat it in the spring with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. If the disease does occur, remove the affected leaves and throw away.

Have you noticed brown spots on your plant and white coating, which gradually become gray-ashy, a white fluff appears, more like mold, which means that your flower has become hostage to gray rot (in the photograph). The buds of the plant fade and wither, and the leaf blades become soft. For prevention, remove dried and affected parts of the plant in a timely manner, add preparations to the soil before planting Barrier or Screen. Eliminate gray rot and the plaque will be helped by spraying with a 0.2% solution Fundazola, 0,1%Topsin-M or treatment with a soap-copper solution consisting of 0.2% copper sulfate and 2% laundry soap. Any of these procedures must be carried out 2 times with an interval of 7 days.

Gray rot on an indoor flower

A more dangerous disease of this fungal nature is root rot. It affects the roots of the plant, as well as the base of the cutting, as a result of which the root system turns black and gradually rots. A good platform for the development of this disease of indoor plants is waterlogging and poor ventilation of the soil, as well as soil or pot contaminated with fungal spores. Among obvious signs Root rot can be caused by wilting, slow plant growth, and faded leaf color. In this case, many people think that the flower does not have enough moisture and begin to water it more intensively, which leads to an even worsening of the problem. As a result, the roots rot and the plant dies (pictured).

In the later stages, it is pointless to fight root rot. The plant is destroyed along with the contaminated soil. But if the damage is minor, then you need to carefully trim the affected area of ​​the plant, sprinkle the cut with fine sulfur or charcoal, and then transplant the flower into fresh, disinfected soil.

Fungal spotting appears as wet spots with clear boundaries. Moreover, it can occupy either a small area of ​​the sheet or its entire area. Among the main causes of spotting are excessive spraying and intense exposure to direct sun rays. Unlike all previous fungal infections, this disease has many names, which manifest themselves in different ways:

• anthracosis - single spots of gray-white hue with a purple shell;
• phyllosticosis - brown spots on the leaves and stem of the plant;
• ascochyta blight - brown-red patches with a yellow rim;
• septoria - pronounced gray or brown spots with a yellow border, as well as narrow red stripes, similar to burns.

Signs of spotting on a plant

At home, people are most susceptible to this fungal disease dracaenas, dieffenbachias and citrus plants. If the disease has attacked your flower, first of all you need to remove all the affected leaves and burn them, and then treat them with a systemic fungicide ( Skor, Topaz, Maxim, Fundazol). During the healing period, stop spraying the plant with plain water, and also reduce watering.

Aphids are quite common on the leaves of indoor and garden plants. Settling in large colonies, insects begin to feed on cell sap, leaving behind sticky traces. Aphids literally absorb all the life-giving power of the flower, making it weak. Spotting a colony is quite easy. They are active in the summer season, moving through the air when the windows are open. The first step in the event of an aphid invasion is to treat the plant with a soap solution, carefully wiping it with a foam sponge. This will remove sticky residue.

Thrips pests

And when everything dries, spray the plant with insecticides - Fitoverm, Intavir, Confidor or Aktara. Usually, after such treatment, no traces of aphids remain, but to be on the safe side, you can spray the flower again after a week. Among folk remedies good efficiency in the fight against these pests shows shampoo against fleas and ticks, garlic infusion (30 g of garlic pulp per 1 liter of boiling water), citrus infusion (100 g of lemon per 1 liter warm water). All infusions must be kept for at least a day and only then sprayed.

Unlike previous pests, it will not be so easy to notice thrips on your indoor plants due to their microscopic size - from 0.5 to 2 mm. As you can see in the photo, thrips larvae and adults feed on cell sap, and in this case it doesn’t matter to them what kind of plant it is. Both delicate rose petals and hard cactus leaf plates can become their victims. The first signs that these pests have attacked the plant are the appearance of yellow and discolored spots and streaks, which eventually merge into a single pattern. As a result of prolonged exposure to thrips, tissues die and holes form in their place. This causes the leaf to wither and fall off. If these pests settle in colonies, their presence also reveals a characteristic silvery coating.

As a preventive measure, constantly humidify the air and give the plant regular showers. Periodically inspect the underside of the leaf and if thrips are found, treat the plant with an insecticide Fitoverm, Vermitek, Konfidor, Aktara, at the rate of 2 ml per glass of water. After treatment, be sure to wrap the affected flower in cellophane and leave it overnight. Next, wash the leaves and shoots thoroughly with soap and water, this will help remove plaque faster. In total, you need to do 3-4 treatments, taking a break of 4-6 days.

Pests such as scale insects have a fairly hard waxy shell that protects them from the action of insecticides, so these products are not always effective. However, this applies only to adult individuals, the larvae are reliable protection Dont Have. They feed on the cell sap of the plant, leaving a sticky coating on the affected areas, which can be a source of development of sooty fungus (look at the photos). For preventive purposes, regularly spray the plant and ventilate the room.

This is what a scale insect looks like

When faced with a scale insect, be sure to remove it from the surface of the leaf and stem, doing this carefully so as not to damage the plant tissue, and if the pests have affected a small part of the flower, it is better to carefully cut it off. Then take a couple of tablespoons of alcohol, dilute it in a soap solution and thoroughly wipe the affected areas. In case of severe lesions, also spray with insecticides to achieve a positive result. Bankol and Aktara.

If in nature colorful butterflies bring us aesthetic pleasure, then we cannot expect joy from whiteflies; these pests are dangerous carriers of viral diseases. This white-winged creature settles on the underside of the leaf, choosing fragrant plants as victims - mint, as well as fuchsias and pelargoniums. It is not difficult to notice the presence of a pest. Just touch the affected flower and you will see small butterflies fly up, these are whiteflies. These pests often leave a white, shiny coating behind, which can later develop into sooty fungus, causing the leaf to darken and fall off.

To prevent the appearance of whiteflies in winter and summer, water the plant with Aktara solution. This is quite enough. And if the problem still cannot be avoided, use this remedy for the main treatment or replace it with Confidor, Mospilan, Fufanon or garlic infusion.

If you notice a cobweb that has entangled your delicate flower, then rest assured that she will not bring happiness to your home. Your gentle creature found itself hostage to a very common indoor pest– spider mite shown in the photo. However, the characteristic web appears only after some time, most often in advanced cases. But the first signal of a problem is often small white dots on the back of the leaf, as well as its wilting, yellowness and deformation of the buds.

Rosebud in a spider's web

These pests feel especially good during hot, dry periods, but with high humidity and coolness they also find a place for themselves, hiding in the soil or under fallen leaves. At such moments, it is very important to carefully care for the flower - collect fallen dry leaves in time and wipe the plant with a damp sponge dipped in soapy water. Among insecticides in the fight against spider mite good results show Neoron, Nissoran, Omite-30, Karate, Fitoverm, Aktellik, Admiral And Bi-58. As conservative methods, housewives recommend spraying with a solution of green or laundry soap, as well as treating the plant with flea and tick shampoo.

It becomes very annoying for flower growers when their favorite plants suddenly start to get sick. Therefore, it is useful to learn about what diseases of indoor plants are and how they should be treated correctly.

This topic is becoming especially relevant today, because the modern market offers a huge number of drugs and products that help prevent and eliminate flower ailments.

Bacterial and viral diseases

These diseases are often accompanied by a slowdown in the development of ornamental crops. It is very difficult to diagnose them in the early stages.

Viruses are often carried by thrips and aphids. Treatment in this case should be comprehensive.

The most common diseases of indoor flowers:

1. Rot. Flowers with fleshy leaves and stems often suffer from it. An overdose of nitrogenous fertilizers or waterlogging can provoke the development of rot.
2. Withering. In this case, the stems begin to wither first, after which all other parts are affected.
3. spotting. Dead areas appear on the leaves of this disease. The spots have clear outlines that make it possible to distinguish them from fungal lesions. To treat the disease, indoor flowers need to be treated with special preparations.
4. Bacterial cancer. Symptoms of the disease include the appearance of small growths on the shoots and rhizomes of plants. If these tumors are left unattended, they can cause their death.

Chemicals for the treatment of house flower diseases are not sufficiently effective. In such situations, it is important to follow preventive measures and control soil moisture.

If rotting of the rhizome is detected, then you need to reduce watering, and if the entire flower is sick, then it will have to be removed along with the pot and soil.

Prevention measures

1. You need to buy flowers exclusively from trusted sources (nurseries or specialized stores). In this case, if pests appear, you can turn to the seller for help, who will most likely fix the problem completely free of charge.
2. It is advisable to choose crop varieties that have good disease resistance.
3. Seed material for planting must be disinfected and sorted.
4. It is necessary to adhere to care conditions depending on the type of plant.
5. Flowers and leaves should be inspected as often as possible for damage and disease.

If a disease is detected, the flower must be urgently isolated from the rest and begin to fight the problem.