The influence of European standards on the life of the population of the post-Soviet space in Lately has become increasingly felt in the construction industry. Real estate owners are trying to transform their properties. For this purpose, technologies and materials imported from the West are used. It has become a common occurrence. But this process is accompanied by a violation of the integrity of the structure window openings and requires restoration of slopes. In an article with detailed photos presented step-by-step instruction How to make plasterboard slopes for windows with your own hands.
Preparatory activities
As for drywall, it is better to prime all of it at once. wrong side leaf. This will prevent us from being distracted later by processing each individual detail. Moreover, it takes time for the primer to dry.
Measures to reduce the size of the window opening with a large width of the foamed space
Often measurements of window openings are carried out by non-professionals. Because of this, the width of the foamed space after installation metal-plastic window can reach 10 cm.
In accordance with the recommendations of the technology under consideration, the boundary of the plasterboard slope should overlap the edges of the frame, leaving the foam out of sight. Therefore, the distance between the drywall and the base surface can be quite large. This will require applying a thick layer of mounting compound, which will make it difficult to get the drywall pieces into the correct position.
How to close the excess space between drywall and foam?
To solve this problem, the process of preparing the window opening can include attaching some kind of pads from strips of drywall. They will reduce (depending on the need) the width or height of the opening. To do this, from the part of the plasterboard sheet that will not be used for the manufacture of the main parts, or that remains after installing the plasterboard ceiling, strips approximately 5 cm wide are cut out using a construction knife.
The gypsum adhesive mixture is mixed with a mixer or drill with a special attachment. As a result, it should have the consistency of thick sour cream.
Applying the adhesive mixture
The adhesive layer must be sufficient to achieve the desired result upon completion of installation of these strips. The goal is to raise the level of the base surface. To make it easier to work, the mixture can be applied not only to the drywall being glued, but also to the wall of the opening.
In this way, raising the level of the base surface can be achieved to a greater extent. After applying the putty, the part is installed in the prepared place.
As can be seen in the previous photo, the adhesive mixture is not applied in a continuous layer to the concrete base, but only in the form of two stripes along the edges. We do not need the plasterboard slopes inside to be monolithic (although we can add a couple of “bloopers” in the central part).
The main thing is to create a support for the workpiece being installed so that its edges do not hang in the air. This approach provides significant savings in the adhesive mixture. Ultimately, the window opening will look like the one shown in the photo below.
If the layer of foam obtained when installing the window is no more than 2-3 cm, then the entire procedure for creating linings described above may not be necessary. In this case, you can immediately proceed directly to the installation of plasterboard slopes.
Installation of plasterboard elements of window slopes
The top part is installed first. To do this, you need to prepare it in advance by cutting it from a whole sheet of drywall. But first, take the necessary measurements so that the gypsum plaster blank is sufficient in length and width.
The established dimensions are transferred to the surface of the sheet, and, focusing on them, the cutting lines are marked with a ruler and pencil.
Using a construction knife, a plasterboard element for the upper slope is cut along the marked lines.
When starting to install the cut piece, you should prepare everything necessary tools and materials. To complete this task you will need:
- level-bar, the length of which is comparable to the size of the installed panel;
- spatula for applying the mixture to the surfaces to be joined;
- plasterboard slab cut to size;
- ready-made adhesive composition, mixed as described above.
When everything is prepared, begin applying the adhesive mixture. It is better to place it around the perimeter, adding a few “bloopers” in the central part. To simplify the work process, it makes sense to apply part of the mixture to base surface closer to the frame. And the second part is on the edge of the plasterboard, on the side that will be removed from the window.
The next step is to install the plate in the desired position. Focus on the lines drawn during the preparatory activities.
How to achieve horizontality of the upper slope?
To achieve strict horizontality of the upper slope of plasterboard, it is necessary to check its location during installation using a level in two directions.
If any place needs to be brought closer to the wall of the opening, this can be done by lightly hitting the drywall. But you shouldn’t pull the plate in the opposite direction. The mixture does not have the properties of rubber and will not return to its previous state. Therefore, it is better to apply a layer of the mixture with a reserve, and the excess substance will spontaneously distribute between the surfaces being connected, partially filling the voids.
Some craftsmen, for the upper slope of plasterboard, come up with supports or use dowels to fix the slab in the desired position. In most cases, this is not necessary. Surface tension forces can easily hold the drywall, preventing it from changing its spatial location.
Installation of side slopes
As for the side slopes made of plasterboard, their installation can begin after the adhesive mixture that holds the top slab has hardened. This procedure follows the same procedure as described above for the top panel:
- a part is cut out from plasterboard;
- the adhesive mixture is mixed;
- the finished composition is applied to the surfaces to be joined;
- the plasterboard part is installed in the place intended for it;
- The position of the slab is adjusted along the marking lines and using a level.
The only difference is that the level check is performed vertically in one direction.
Covering cracks with adhesive mixture
When all the drywall elements are in the proper position and the adhesive mixture has hardened, it is necessary to cover all the cracks between the drywall and the walls of the opening with the same composition.
After this you can start last stage– puttying drywall.
Finishing work
In accordance with the rules for installing plasterboard slopes, it is important that the corners are perfectly even. Therefore, a perforated corner is installed on them. It will strengthen them, protecting them from possible mechanical damage. The corner needs to be measured to size and cut using metal scissors.
Installation of a perforated corner
Then you need to mix it a little finishing putty(it is better to use KNAUF multifinish, which will provide more time to work with the mixture). The putty must first be applied to the corner of the slope.
After this, the corner is installed.
Application to drywall surface
Next, use the same gypsum mixture. Then proceed to apply it to the surface of the drywall. It is important not to forget that this surface must be primed in advance. Leveling the slope surface is carried out in two stages.
The first stage is to apply the mixture in sufficient quantity with a spatula. It must be applied perpendicular to the plasterboard element.
The second stage is to tighten the putty with a wide spatula along the slope.
Preparing slopes for painting
If the slopes will be painted, it is better to apply the putty in two layers. With a drying period in between. After the surface of the plasterboard window slopes takes on an aesthetic appearance and dries sufficiently, all that remains is to sand it. This is done using a special abrasive mesh. After sanding, remove the beads. Then comes painting.
As can be seen from this story, making slopes from plasterboard with your own hands is not difficult. It is important to measure everything carefully and follow the technological order. This should be observed both during preparatory work and during the installation and finishing of the main parts. Don't forget to prime hard surfaces before applying mixtures. And also, do not mix too much glue so that you have time to work it out before it hardens.
Watch the instructional video on how to make drywall slopes with your own hands:
Good luck with your renovation!
When the plasterboard slopes are completed with your own hands, the owner of the house has a reason to be proud. After all, such decoration is not only a decoration for the windows and the entire room as a whole, it also has a number of advantages. For example, the noise and thermal insulation characteristics. Which only adds to the attractiveness of the home. This is especially appreciated when it comes to improving your home. After all, there the task of saving heat in winter is a priority.
If you have enthusiasm and prepared materials plasterboard slopes It is possible to install it yourself. You just need to take into account the recommendations proposed here and strictly follow them during construction work. Drywall window slopes are an alternative to plastic ones. They can be installed in one of several ways. It could be either frame option, or glue. So, plasterboard slopes have been chosen: how to make them and finish them correctly is described below.
What is this article about?
Selecting the right material and tools
First thing's first: stock up necessary type plasterboard sheets. There is no consensus among experts on this issue. Some people insist on making slopes from moisture-resistant sheets. Others are not adherents of this approach and believe that, according to the rules of construction work, it is quite possible to get by with ordinary gypsum plasterboard slabs from which wall cladding is made.
To make slopes with your own hands from plasterboard, you should worry in advance about having a whole set of tools and Supplies. This is the only way the process will go faster and more confidently. To do this, prepare the following:
- construction knife;
- screwdriver with a set of drills;
- drywall float;
- clean cloth;
- bit for screwing in self-tapping screws;
- water tank;
- construction mixer;
- glue for gypsum board;
- self-tapping screws;
- level;
- profile for frame;
- primer;
- acrylic composition for painting;
- material for waterproofing and insulation (mineral wool, for example);
- spatula for putting putty compounds.
After everything necessary has been prepared, finishing the slopes with plasterboard begins with the very first step - preparing the base. But this is just the beginning. What work remains to be done will be explained in the instructions, which describe step by step the entire process of finishing the internal window surfaces.
Foundation preparation stage
You cannot skip any of the stages. Indeed, if the installation technology is violated, do-it-yourself plasterboard slopes may subsequently reveal a number of irreversible defects that will negate all the work.
Proper installation of slopes made of plasterboard or plastic should be carried out on a prepared base.
Sequence of work:
- Drops of polyurethane foam formed during sealing of the frame are removed from the surfaces of the window opening using a knife. Following this, the surfaces of the opening are primed with a special antibacterial compound, which creates a protective layer against the development of mold.
- Polyurethane foam is laid with a cement composition, adjusted in a ratio of 1 to 4, where 1 is cement, 4 is water. The application of a cement composition ensures masking of the through gaps that exist in the layer of polyurethane foam.
- Important attention is paid to waterproofing and insulation. Since gypsum that is not protected by waterproofing can very quickly collapse under the influence of condensation.
- To create smooth surfaces, a slope corner is screwed to the window frame using self-tapping screws. The smaller of its sides is oriented towards the window. Corners are attached along the entire perimeter of the window on which it is planned to place the slopes with your own hands from plasterboard.
Adhesive technology for sealing openings
When choosing the option with glue, it is assumed that the window has old slopes. First, fragments of the remaining finishing - paint, plaster, whitewash - are removed from them, and they are also wiped off from dust. Cracks are sealed tile adhesive or plaster mixture. After that, the surfaces are primed and waited until they dry completely.
Fairly smooth old slopes are finished with new ones by gluing plasterboard blanks using tile adhesive for internal use. Roll the glue mixture into balls. Their diameter is determined according to the gap between the old slope and the workpiece. The balls are laid out, making indentations of 10–30 cm. A more frequent step is excluded due to the difficulty of further tapping the workpieces. The space between the balls makes it possible to accurately tap the workpieces. This allows the glue to quickly set and dry.
Glue in finished form hardens quickly. For this reason, they do not keep it for a long time; they try to use it up within half an hour. Therefore, all drywall blanks are prepared in advance - before mixing the glue. Once signs of glue hardening appear, they no longer try to renew it by adding water and stirring. In this case, prepare the solution again.
If there are large irregularities on the old slope (over 3 cm), the blanks are not glued to the balls. The glue consumption will be incomparably greater, and it will not be possible to achieve the required degree of strength. In areas with significant unevenness, they do it differently - increase the thickness using plasterboard fragments. In this way, it is possible to achieve a layer thickness of 20 cm. In this situation, installation of plasterboard slopes is carried out one hour after building up uneven areas.
After arranging the gypsum board blanks, they are tapped. In order not to spoil the workpieces, tapping with a rubber or wooden hammer is carried out on the attached block. At the same time, they control verticality and horizontality with a plumb line or level.
The vertically installed workpiece is strengthened with spacers, one of the edges of which rests against the slope and the other against the window sill. Take a break for an hour to allow the glue to harden. When the gypsum board slopes are completely glued, wait a few days for the adhesive layer to completely harden. After which the gap between the wall and the slope is foamed. Until this moment, air flow flows through the free gap to the adhesive layer. Why does the latter adhere better and faster to surfaces?
Frame technology for making slopes
When installing plastic windows attract metal profiles, with the help of which they construct slopes from plasterboard. The variety of such profiles is chosen at the stage of placing an order for windows.
When installing a window, the profile is placed in special openings on the frame at the top and sides.
If it is not possible to order and supply a specialized profile, use a standard profile for installing gypsum boards.
After waiting for the polyurethane foam to completely harden on the windows and window sills, they begin constructing the frame.
The profile is screwed on using metal self-tapping screws; the self-tapping screws are placed at the joints of the gypsum board blank and the frame.
When covering wall surfaces adjacent to a window with plasterboard, guide profiles are installed to the latter. Slopes made of gypsum board will be attached to them.
Since the slope meets window frame at a certain angle, with the magnitude of the latter determined in advance. In this case, the guide profiles are shifted a short distance on the wall from the window.
Slope finishing stage
Follow-up finishing allows for a more aesthetic appearance ready-made slopes. This is done armed with putty and paint.
First of all, the outer corners of the slopes are processed, covering them with perforated corners. Their material is profiled metal with a thickness of 1 mm. Perforated corners are glued to the corner joints of window openings using plasterboard adhesive.
Application adhesive composition the corners are applied so that it covers the entire surface with an even layer and does not form voids. Otherwise, the perforated metal will warp, which will have a bad effect on the external decor.
The corner is pressed all the way so that it comes into close contact with the mixture or putty. The mixture that comes out of the holes is carefully removed with a spatula. In order to ensure evenness on surfaces, they resort to using a builder's level. Upon completion of the installation process, the profiled corners are carefully sealed. When puttying, pay special attention to areas that involve window frame and plasterboard panels. After applying a two-layer putty composition, check the coating for evenness and level out any depressions and bumps found.
If serious flaws are found on the surface, then they go over it with fine-grained sandpaper or grinder. They try not to be too zealous so as not to spoil the putty layer (putty is quite finicky).
After the putty surface has dried, it is primed. The primer allows you to repair micro-scratches and other minor damage.
The final stage is painting performed on top of the primer. You can paint it with acrylic or water-based paint. Painting allows you to additionally hide some material defects in the form of mechanical damage and scratches.
Knowing the sequence in which the main stages of work are performed when arranging window slopes from gypsum board blanks, it will be much easier to complete the work yourself. And, if you forgot something, there is always the opportunity to return to studying this instruction again.
It is very convenient to make slopes from plasterboard with your own hands - no dirt, no long step-by-step work You are not afraid!
Choosing drywall
Drywall installation
If you make slopes from plasterboard, then this choice may be due to the following advantages:
- During installation there is no such amount of debris and waste as, say, during puttying and plastering the surface;
- Do-it-yourself plasterboard slopes are perfectly smooth;
- Installing gypsum boards is so simple that even a beginner can do it.
Disadvantages of this type of finish compared to other options:
- The material is quite fragile;
- In terms of strength, gypsum board is significantly inferior to its plastic counterpart;
- Increased hygroscopicity is also a minus.
When choosing drywall for you need to be guided by the following rules:
- The standard one can be taken if the humidity in the room does not exceed 70;
- Moisture-resistant has increased hydrophobic and antifungal properties, which makes it possible to use even in the bathroom;
- For rooms where building codes indicate an increased risk of fire, it is better to use gypsum plasterboard with the addition of fiberglass and reduced mineral wool particles.
Well, choosing a slope option is much easier said than done. Although this can be done quickly, especially if you read the basic rules of this process and understand the main types.
Tools for work
To make slopes from plasterboard with your own hands, you must acquire the following tools:
- Assembly knife
- Screwdriver
- Set of various drills
- GCR grater or sandpaper 200-240;
- Level
- Primer for painting
- Gypsum plasterboard adhesive
- putty
- Perforated corner
- Sloping corner
- Brush
- Primer against fungus
- Roller
- Water-based paint
- Ditch for paint
So, you have prepared a list of items, so let’s start installing plasterboard slopes with your own hands.
Preparation
However, we will not start right away, but will carefully prepare a “springboard” for the work.
Installing the Top
And in order for our hand-made plasterboard slopes to be almost ideal, we will carry out a number of actions:
- Without any regret, remove excess mortar and foam, which you probably used to seal the window itself (you can use a painting knife for this);
- Take a brush and a container of primer in your hands and carefully treat the entire surface of the slope. This event will protect your window in the future from mold and mildew, which may lead to you having to re-make plasterboard slopes with your own hands;
- Those places that you sealed with polyurethane foam need to be covered with a weak cement mortar (the proportion of water to cement is 4 to 1), these actions will help to block small holes that probably still remain;
- It is, of course, advisable to insulate the slope. Unfortunately, gypsum is a type of material that is destroyed under the influence of condensation and temperature changes, and therefore everything must be done in advance so that this process does not become real;
- Next, in order for all the work to be accurate and verified, you need to put a slope corner along the slope, the smaller side of which is directed towards the window, thereby reducing the area of the frame itself, which will be used for the slope.
3 ways to install gypsum boards
The first step is to pick up a meter and carefully measure the dimensions of the window opening. And make the corresponding “patterns” on the drywall.
Cutting drywall is quite simple: draw along the line with a paint knife, then take the material for a break in the same place. The plaster itself breaks, and a line is formed on the back side, along which you also draw with a paint knife.
However, let's describe in more detail how this should happen. When cutting the top layer of cardboard, press the paint knife a little harder so that it also cuts the plaster. To get a smooth cut, you can place a block under the sheet and just gently tap along the line. Already with these manipulations you will see how the plaster will break smoothly. And just for the finishing touch, cut the opposite sheet of cardboard with a paint knife.
We have prepared one part - attach it to the opening. Is everything correct? Did you cut correctly?
For putty
One of the most common installation options, which, in principle, can be done by a beginner.
So, the process of laying plasterboard slopes with your own hands step by step will look like this:
- Before laying, apply a special primer to the slope itself, which is used to increase the adhesion between the mortar and the slope itself. Also, immediately before the laying process itself, you can additionally spray the slope with ordinary water using a spray bottle;
- “Cakes” of putty are applied to the gypsum board sheets. Be sure to distribute them so that this application is in the corners and in the center of the sheet. If the opening is large enough, and you need to fasten the upper part, and you are working alone, then it is reasonable to prepare homemade spacers that will help hold the sheet. After all, if the sheet breaks, then you definitely won’t be able to achieve a smooth surface;
- Now carefully, firmly press the gypsum board sheet against the slope, and, taking the level in your hands, check whether it is level. If you purchased a high-quality adhesive mixture, then you do not need to use additional fixation of the sheets;
- Using the same spatula, remove excess glue from the edges that has been squeezed out of the space. All! The strip is installed;
- Do-it-yourself installation of the side walls and bottom for a plasterboard slope is carried out in the same way (if you do not have a window sill).
Unfortunately, this method has a number of disadvantages - namely:
- Preliminary leveling of surfaces to be finished is mandatory;
- When laying, voids are formed, because you apply the mixture not to the entire surface, but partially;
- It is necessary to press the sheets firmly, and at the same time make sure that the surface is even;
- If the spacers are not installed properly, there is a possibility that the surface of the gypsum board may simply bend in some places;
- And finally, the fastening, it should be noted, is not very reliable.
However this is enough quick way fasteners, which many have been using for several years now, and have no special complaints.
On polyurethane foam
This method is also a simple one, but it should be used if there are no potholes larger than 3 cm on your slopes, otherwise you will need to either putty the depressions or pre-fill them with foam, but in this place the fastening will not be of sufficient quality.
So, the process itself:
- Prepare the slope in the same way as for installation on putty (primer is required);
- Next, by inserting polyurethane foam into a special gun, squeeze it out in a thin line (no more than one cm) onto the back side of your workpiece, making sure that it is applied like a “snake”;
- Press the sheet to the place where it will be located;
- Then tear it off and leave it aside for 5 minutes. This time is needed for the foam on the sheet itself and the residue on the slope to increase in volume;
- After the specified period of time, press your workpiece back into its place, check its horizontal or vertical position using building level, and leave it in a fixed state until it dries completely (about 12-24 hours depending on the manufacturer and the quality of the polyurethane foam you purchased);
- After drying, cover the gaps between the drywall and the wall with plaster.
The disadvantages of this installation method are absolutely identical to the first installation option.
Frame method
This method is considered the most difficult, but at the same time the most reliable. There is one feature that needs to be taken into account - cutting of drywall sheets is done after the frame is assembled, but not before.
So let's get started:
- First, using special corners (you can also use wooden blocks), the frame itself is assembled. Basically, specialists first install the side crossbars, and only then the horizontal jumper;
Important! In this method, all corners must be installed under the control of the building level, otherwise the surface will not be level!
- Next, we attach the gypsum board sheets to the frame using a regular screwdriver and fleas (small self-tapping screws). When fastening, do not overdo it with tightening, as an overtightened screw can cause the plaster to crack, and this is not very good. And just like that, sheet by sheet, the gypsum board is attached to the frame;
- In this method, subsequent jointing of the fastening points and puttying of these joints is mandatory. For jointing, it is enough to make crosswise cuts with a painting knife, and then putty this place. And after drying, sand it.
After these steps you have completed, you can begin finishing, which also has several stages, and this is by no means just painting.
Slope finishing
All the manipulations that you have performed are only half the battle. Further measures to create a slope from plasterboard with your own hands are also important. Ready? Then let's get started!
To ensure that the slope angle is even and does not crumble, you need to take care of strengthening it in advance. To do this, you need to purchase a special perforated corner, which is attached along the entire outer perimeter of the slope using drywall adhesive.
Important! The glue should be distributed evenly over the corners; the perforated corner is quite flexible, and an uneven layer can cause it to deform, which will affect the evenness of the corner.
So, the mixture has been distributed, now place the purchased corner on the corner, pressing a little, so that the corner sits all the way. Excess adhesive mixture will probably come out through the holes, which you can immediately remove using the same spatula.
Now pick up a level and check whether you have leveled the corner. If everything is fine, we move on, but if not, we need to reinstall it.
Next, you need to putty the places where the perforated corner intersects with the slope. Usually two layers are enough. If you encounter any unevenness during the putty process, you can get rid of them with fine-grained sandpaper, but you need to correct the surface after the putty has completely set.
In addition, you need to embroider and putty those places where you fastened the gypsum board to the slope with a self-tapping screw.
Also, carefully glue the joints between the slope and the window. special tape, which should then be puttied. Although, in principle, if the cracks are very small, you can get by with just putty.
Almost the final stage is applying a primer with your own hands to the entire surface of the plasterboard slope. Then take a fine abrasive sandpaper in your hands and walk along the slope again, removing any irregularities. To take a closer look at where exactly they are, you can use a “carrying” (a regular light bulb with a socket on a long wire), placing the light bulb at different angles, you can understand where and what is wrong and correct it.
After grouting, give it a final coat of primer again.
Trimming gypsum boards locally
After the layer has dried, you can begin painting the plasterboard slope with your own hands. It will be more convenient and competent to perform this type of work with a roller:
- A little paint is poured into the ditch;
- The roller is lowered into the paint, then you need to walk the roller along the ribbed side, removing excess water-based emulsion;
- Apply paint to the slope with a roller, and you need to move in different directions, however, you should not move the roller too much over one place - give the paint time to set, do not apply too thick a layer, which can immediately “peel off”. But you shouldn’t paint windows this way. You can check the evenness of the paint overlay using the same carrier - in places where you did not go, dark spots will be visible under the light, which need to be painted over immediately.
- Usually two layers of water-based emulsion are enough. And it won’t be that easy, but if you’re interested, it’s possible.
So, you not only made a drywall slope with your own hands, but also painted it, and everything worked out for you!
Happy renovation!
For registration door slopes There are two technologies: plastering and decoration with hard finishing materials such as laminated MDF, plastic, plasterboard, etc. Leveling the door slope with plaster is the most reliable method from a safety point of view: there are no cracks or gaps left, and it will be very difficult to knock out the doors. That’s why slopes are usually plastered near the entrance doors. But, as always, there are disadvantages: this work takes quite a lot of time, and without the skills to achieve good results difficult. It's easier to sheathe it with something. You don’t need to be a visionary to assume that most people make their own slopes from plasterboard. It’s clear why: the material is inexpensive, the technology is known, it’s easy to work with, and the results are good.
This is what the doors look like after installation - you need to make slopes
To decorate slopes indoors, ordinary drywall is used. If there is a need to make a slope outside or in a damp room, you need to take a moisture-resistant one. The thickness of the sheets is normal, the same as used for walls - 12.5 mm.
You will also need a good paper knife for the job; you may also need perforated paint corners and foam. You will definitely need putty: to seal the cracks and bring everything back to normal.
This is what doors may look like after finishing the slopes with plasterboard, and you can do it yourself
Before starting work on finishing the door slopes, all communications that must pass through the doors are laid. For example, if a doorway is designed front door, this could be a wire for a bell, lighting above the door, etc. If the slopes of interior doors are designed, it can be a telephone cable or twisted pair cable for connecting the Internet.
Having passed the necessary communications into the gap between the door frame, securing them, the cracks are sealed with polyurethane foam. Foam is applied no more than 1/3 of the volume of the cracks: it expands greatly and can even bend the wooden door frame. Therefore, if the box is wooden, while the reaction takes place, it is recommended to install spacers that guarantee an unchanged geometry.
Making door slopes with your own hands begins with sealing the gaps between the door frame and the wall
The time required for the foam to harden depends on the temperature and humidity, but on average it takes 8-12 hours (for some types it may take a day). Excess hardened foam is cut off with a knife, plaster that does not adhere well is removed, and dust and dirt are swept away. You can begin work on finishing the doorways.
How to make slopes from plasterboard
When installing plasterboard slopes, it is important to take correct and accurate measurements necessary elements. To do this, measure the distance from the door jamb to the corner in several places, and measure the height of the required parts. Measurements are taken for each side separately: rarely do walls have ideal geometry.
All dimensions are applied to a sheet of drywall and connected by lines. Once again everything is measured and, if everything is correct, cut out.
This is what the “pattern” for a plasterboard slope looks like:
Cutting drywall
Cutting drywall is easy: you need good knife on paper, a long ruler (a meter or so) and wooden block. A ruler is applied to the drawn line, a paper knife is drawn along it, cutting a sheet of cardboard and trying to cut the plaster at least a little. Place a block under the place where the cut was made and lightly tap the sheet along the cut. In this case, the plaster breaks, almost perfectly exactly along the cut line. All that remains is to cut the bottom sheet of cardboard.
This video shows how to cut drywall without a saw.
This method is convenient for cutting drywall in a straight line. Where curved lines are needed, use a hacksaw - she has small tooth and she hardly tears the cardboard. They also use a jigsaw, but there is a lot of dust. You can also cut in a straight line with a hacksaw or jigsaw if you don’t like the previous method.
Instructions for installing plasterboard slopes
Elements cut from plasterboard can be installed:
- on polyurethane foam;
- for putty;
- on the frame.
On polyurethane foam
Any person can “glue” drywall to foam
It is very easy to fix the cut sheets onto the mounting foam. But this can be done right away if there are no large holes on the slopes. If the depressions are up to 3 cm, you can install the slopes right away, only fill the largest potholes with foam first (do not apply a lot, about 1/3 of the volume of the excavation).
If the unevenness is deeper than 3 cm, it is better to pre-fill them with cement mortar or a composition for starting plaster.
The procedure for installing plasterboard door slopes on polyurethane foam is as follows:
- Having prepared the site (removing dust and falling pieces, filling too large recesses with foam), apply mounting foam to the back side of the plasterboard blank with a thin (no more than 1 cm) snake.
- Place the element in place, press it against the wall, the way this fragment should stand.
- Tear it off and put it aside for 5-8 minutes. The foam remained on the wall and on the sheet of drywall. In a few minutes it increases in volume.
- Place part of the slope in place and press it well. Leave in this state until the foam has completely hardened (12-24 hours).
- Seal the gaps between the plasterboard elements and the wall with plaster.
The plasterboard slope has been completed; finishing work remains.
The disadvantages of this method are quite serious. Firstly, the side and vertical surfaces must first be leveled, otherwise you will not be able to install the elements evenly. Secondly, there is a possibility that the workpiece will bend/bend. Thirdly, voids remain. Well, and the most important thing is that the fastening is not the most reliable. But the door slopes are made simply and quickly.
For putty
Instead of polyurethane foam, you can “glue” the cut out fragments onto diluted putty:
- Apply cakes of the composition for working with drywall, diluted to a paste, onto the sheets (the finishing one is better, it is more “sticky”). They should be located around the perimeter and somewhere in the middle.
- Spray the slope cleaned of dust and cracked old plaster with water from a spray bottle.
- Place the workpiece in place and press well. You can rest your palms on the plane and “sway” the fragment from side to side. Feel that the plaster has begun to blur, and the piece of drywall has “stuck.”
- If the fragment stands tightly and does not move, you can leave it until the putty sets (for a day, sometimes two). If an element is held unsteadily and can move, it needs to be supported with something. Preferably at the edges and in the middle. Leave it like this for at least 10-12 hours. Then the supports can be removed and wait for the putty to dry completely.
Methods for applying putty “patches” can be different. The main thing is that the element holds well
The disadvantages of this method are the same. You just need to say that the slopes on the windows in our apartment are made in exactly this way. This happened 9 years ago, and still no problems.
On the frame
A more labor-intensive, but also more reliable and versatile way to install plasterboard slopes is on an assembled frame. The frame is made of wooden blocks or special profiles.
The guides are placed vertically along the door jamb and at the corner. Between them, at a distance of 50-70 cm, small transverse jumpers are placed.
To install plasterboard slopes with your own hands, first assemble the frame. It can be made from profiles or from wooden blocks
There is one peculiarity with this method: measurements are taken after the frame has been installed. The cut out parts are put in place and secured with self-tapping screws.
If the frame is assembled from profiles, screws are needed for metal, if from bars - for wood. In any case, you need to twist it carefully so as not to tear the cardboard. If you overtighten, the plaster may even burst or crumble. A large number of defects of this kind will lead to the fact that the plasterboard slope will not hold up well.
Sealing cracks and decorating outer corners
The final touches before finishing the door slope are sealing the cracks. They can be glued with a special tape for sealing corners, and then puttied. This method is suitable in the place where the drywall is connected to the door frame or where the vertical and horizontal parts of the slope are connected. If the cracks here are very small, you can simply cover them with putty and smooth them out well.
Corner tape can be paper or fiberglass. Both do their job well - preventing cracking
There are also several ways to design the other side. The first is to cover it with the same tape for finishing the corners. But this method is suitable if the angle is smooth, there are no problems. This situation rarely occurs for beginners. Much more often the angle needs to be “outlined”. In this case, use a metal paint corner. It has two perforated sides, which allows you to secure it in several ways:
- into pieces of plasticine;
- on thick putty;
- on screws or nails.
In the case of carnations, you need to be careful: you can get hurt when working with them. In general, this method is convenient, but again, if the angle is almost perfect.
Having secured the corners, the plasterboard slopes are finally put in order - they are puttied
Perforated corners are set level and in the same plane as the main wall. The resulting voids are filled with putty diluted to a paste. For initial leveling, use starting putty. After it dries, all irregularities are smoothed out with a special mesh. It is used instead sandpaper, which is clogged with putty instantly. Mesh for sanding putty is sold in the same stores that sell drywall. A layer of finishing, leveling putty is then applied to the leveled surface. After drying, it also needs to be brought to a perfectly smooth state. They do this with the same mesh, only thinner.
If such a hassle with putty seems complicated to you, read about how to make slopes from MDF. There's definitely no putty there.
In general, without experience, it is difficult to make external corners ideal. Even when working with drywall. By installing perforated metal corners, we make our task much easier. But still, it’s not always possible to do everything perfectly. But even in this case, there is a way out: decorative plastic corners. They are installed after the walls are finished. They are selected either to match the door or to match the finish. Glue on liquid nails. All you need to do is cut them to the required length. They are cut with ordinary scissors. The main thing here is to cut an even 45° angle at the top.
A decorative corner for slopes will hide all defects
If wood is more suitable for your design style, you can find a similar corner made of wood.
You can also decorate the outer corner of the slope using a wooden corner
In fact, the role of a decorative corner for slopes is not only decoration. It also protects the corner from damage. This is especially true for entrance doors. If everything is covered with wallpaper, it also protects it from damage, which also happens quite often. That's all, the slopes are made of plasterboard, and with your own hands.
All these methods can be combined, as, for example, in a video.
Installing a new front door is always a big deal. And for the first impression of the apartment - special thanks, and for the reliability of protection from unwanted guests, which has increased. However, the matter has not yet been completed, since it is possible to make slopes on the doors only after the polyurethane foam has completely hardened, which means after the installers have left, in a separate step. And such operations are rarely included in their sphere of activity. While waiting for the moment when you can finally finish the front door, it’s time to choose how this will be done.
What to use for finishing: options
There are a wide variety of ways to make door slopes. Each of them has its own advantages and, of course, certain disadvantages. When choosing, you should start from their favorable ratio in the direction of the predominance of advantages.
- The classic of the genre is plastering. Cement-sand mixtures are durable, not destroyed by moisture, and cheap. Among the negative qualities is the need for certain plastering skills, a large number of dirt and a rather long wait for drying before finishing.
- One of the most popular options today for sealing the slopes of the front door is plasterboard sheathing. Good benefits The material is fast, simple and clean finishing. Even a person who has never encountered such work, but knows how to hold tools in his hands, can handle it. A significant objection may be the low moisture resistance of gypsum plasterboard. It is used to line door jambs in apartment buildings, where the formation of condensation is prevented by the entrance. And it is still advisable to use a moisture-resistant type of drywall.
- Laminate flooring is quite good as a cladding material for making slopes on the front door. An opening made in this way looks quite noble. However, the frame “eats up” the space, and the laminate itself is also not very friendly with moisture.
- MDF looks very beautiful, but has almost the same disadvantages as laminate, plus it is very unstable to physical influences - it can even be scratched by a plastic button. In addition, it absorbs all odors, and it is almost impossible to remove stains that appear. But it is placed on polyurethane foam, which even an inexperienced installer can handle.
- An attractive way to make slopes on doors is tiling. You just need to choose it from unglazed floor options, otherwise the doorway will look too shiny. The advantages are resistance to moisture and strength, the disadvantages are that the work is dirty, it requires experience, time to set and sew up seams.
- PVC panels can be considered a disposable option. They are cheap, look budget, but can be pierced even with a finger, which is not very good for an external doorway.
Choosing drywall for finishing doors
In most cases, when they plan to decorate door slopes with their own hands, people choose drywall. In addition to the ease of installation, it is attractive because it can subsequently be decorated in almost any way, gently blending into the overall interior of the hallway.
Option No. 1: adhesive installation
It allows you to quickly and without wasting space install gypsum plasterboard door slopes with your own hands. If everything is done correctly, they will turn out perfectly smooth and without a frame. The plating algorithm will be like this.
Step by Step Actions
- The door leaf is covered with construction polyethylene to prevent accidental contact with the adhesive composition.
- Using a sharp knife, cut off the frozen polyurethane foam close to the wall.
- The surfaces of the openings are impregnated with a primer - this will permanently prevent their possible shedding or the formation of fungus under the plasterboard slabs.
- Along the perimeter of all slope elements (top and side), holes are drilled with a hammer drill every 20 cm. Dowels are hammered into them and screws are screwed in so that their heads stick out from the socket. All heads must be located in the same plane, which is checked by a level: the plasterboards will rest on them, and they are responsible for the evenness of the sheets.
- Drywall sheets are cut to size using a utility knife. The upper slope should occupy the entire space - the sides will rest against it. Vertical sheets are cut taking into account the distance that the top sheet will take.
- The glue is diluted if it is in the form of a dry mixture. Please note that the composition must be suitable for working with drywall and be based on gypsum, not cement. You need to start with the upper component of the slopes. The distance between the dowels is coated with glue. Dotted strokes are evenly applied to the plasterboard.
- The sheet is applied to the desired location. A level is used to check its horizontalness, after which it is pressed until it fits tightly onto the screw heads.
- The side parts of plasterboard door slopes are installed in the same way.
It is very important to ensure that there is no excess glue under the sheets - it can bend the panel. To do this, when installing slopes on the front door with your own hands, each element is lightly tapped through a board or a piece of gypsum board.
Option No. 2: frame installation
It is used if the doorway is very uneven and full of sharp protrusions that cannot be knocked down - in this case, plasterboard door slopes can be damaged from the inside, from the wall, even at the installation stage, and even more so during operation , for example, when bringing in something large. The frame is also used if you need to hide incoming cables.
Can be used for do-it-yourself lathing wooden slats or metallic profile for wall covering. Considering the conditions in which the door slope will operate, it is better to prefer metal that is not subject to rot and mold.
Carrying out the work step by step
The start of the process is the same as option 1, so the first steps remain the same. And then we proceed as follows.
- The dimensions of the racks and horizontal guides are measured.
- Use metal scissors or a grinder to cut the necessary elements.
- In the opening along the entire perimeter, holes are made with a puncher every 30-40 centimeters. Plastic dowels are inserted into them.
- Each segment is fixed with self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws with mandatory checking of the geometry by level.
- To make the frame stronger, it is reinforced with profile jumpers.
- When the sheathing is ready, you can further insulate the opening using mineral wool, laid in its cells.
- Using a sharp knife (a construction knife, the plasterboards are cut to carefully measured dimensions.
- The elements are fastened with self-tapping screws with an indentation of 20 cm around the entire perimeter. Their caps are buried in the covering material no deeper than 1 mm.
- The outer corners of the structure are reinforced with perforated corners, which are attached to self-tapping screws.
Do-it-yourself plasterboard slopes mounted on glue or a frame undergo final processing: the seams are glued with serpyanka, the entire surface is puttied, and after the finishing layer has dried, the finishing is applied. The doorway is ready, we hope that it will be used for as long as possible: well, time will tell! How and what did you use to make the slopes for the front door?
professional builder - experience since 2005.
One of the most important points any repair is the installation of new doors. They are an integral part of the appearance of our house or apartment. At the same time, any, even the most beautiful door, can ruin the slopes.
If the outer side of the doors is improved with the help of platbands, then with inside things are much sadder. Here we see concrete, brickwork, fastenings and polyurethane foam. To hide all these unflattering elements, it is necessary to create slopes.
Before and after creating slopes
It is very easy to make beautiful and reliable door slopes with your own hands. To do this, you need to know all the nuances of this process.
Methods for forming slopes
Door slopes can be do in several ways:
- just seal it with mortar and cover it with plaster. Considered the most in a simple way, as it allows for better sound insulation and protection of the door frame. The slope will be monolithic and will not sag. But here it is impossible to open up in terms of design;
Plastered slopes
- doorway finishing various types materials. In this situation, the material is attached using an adhesive solution. Here you can use any types of materials, which allows you to create a unique and Beautiful design. It is considered the most optimal for execution, as it is simple and effective;
Frameless finish
- manufacturing the frame and covering it with finishing material. This method involves the need to make a frame, and then cover it with your favorite material: plastic, drywall, MDF, etc. As a result, the slope is the most aesthetically pleasing. It is used if the two previous methods are very expensive.
Door slopes can be finished using any of the above methods. In this case, you can use different materials.
Slope options
The main task of the slopes is to give a normal aesthetic appearance to the doorway, as well as to securely fasten the door frame. They can be made from a wide variety of materials. What slopes to make depends only on you. The most commonly used in this situation are:
- plastic slopes;
- slopes from the Ministry of Internal Affairs;
- plasterboard slopes;
- wooden lamella slopes;
- cellulose panels.
Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. But plasterboard and plastic slopes have proven themselves best.
Let's take a closer look at the advantages of drywall, since it is this material that today successfully replaces other types of finishing. Advantages of plasterboard slopes:
- versatility;
- reliability;
- flexibility;
- durability;
- the presence of several sheet options with different performance characteristics;
- speed of installation.
Plasterboard sheets
The best manufacturer of plasterboard sheets today is the German company Knauf. The products from this company are always high quality. They will give your repair reliability, strength and durability.
Therefore, plasterboard, better than other types of finishes (including even plastic ones), is suitable for finishing a door reception.
But in any case, no matter what types of slopes you decide to install, proceed from their practicality, efficiency and safety for the door frame.
Required list of tools
In order to make door slopes as quickly and correctly as possible, you will need the following tools:
- knife and spatula;
- tape measure and pencil;
- building level;
- drill and screwdriver;
- hammer;
- hammer drill with attachments for working with concrete;
- a container in which a sufficient volume of solution can be mixed.
Tools
With this list of tools at your disposal, making slopes will not be difficult.
Carrying out preparatory work
Before you start making door slopes (plastic, plasterboard, etc.), you should carry out preparatory work. The preparatory stage is universal; it depends on the material and method of forming the door slopes. Let's consider preparing for installing drywall on the frame:
- We cover the door frame with masking tape or regular film. This will prevent damage to its structure;
- we clean out all the irregularities that may interfere with further finishing;
- then you should remove the mounting foam that protrudes above the level of the plaster. To do this you need to use a spatula or knife;
Slope surface preparation
- then you need to make holes in the concrete along the perimeter in 20 cm increments using a hammer drill;
- You need to drive dowels into the prepared holes and screw in screws. They should not be screwed in completely yet. With their help, adhesion to drywall will be much better, and the finishing itself will be faster;
- the working surface is swept away from material residues;
- prime the entire surface of the door slopes.
Note! To finish door slopes, you should use a primer that has deep penetration. It is better to use a surface primer only when the wall is made of loose material or foam concrete. The primer should be applied even if the frame is being formed, as it will prevent the material from crumbling over time.
On preparatory stage can you make a gasket power cable for further connection of switches. This must be done when the material will be attached to the solution. When creating a frame, you can route the cable at the time of its installation.
Some experts advise that in order for the preparation and further finishing to proceed correctly, display the outlines on the floor frame structure. At the stage installation work It will be much easier to navigate using these marks.
Frame installation
Plastic, plasterboard or wooden slopes. But for this, the frame itself must be assembled correctly. Installation work metal frame involve the following operations:
- We prepare the frame elements. These can be metal guides (the same as for finishing walls with plasterboard), wooden slats or bars;
- We attach the guide profiles to plastic dowels and impact screws;
- two profiles or slats should be attached along the entire perimeter;
- profiles or slats must be placed on both edges of the slope;
- to strengthen the structure, fastening bridges should be used, especially at the corners of the structure, at the top and bottom;
- the frame should fit snugly against the door frame.
Ready frame
At the end of arranging the frame structure, you need to lay power cables.
Installation of finishing material
- we measure the dimensions of the guides along the perimeter (three sides) of the slope and cut the sheets to the required sizes;
Drywall cutting
Note! Cut the sheets carefully, following the technology, otherwise the edges will turn out uneven. First you need to cut through upper layer paper. Then we tap the cut site on the back side to break through the plaster. Now you can cut through the paper on the other side. You should cut from the edges to the center.
- We make the upper guide to cover the entire width of the doorway, since the side slopes will rest on it;
- We fasten the sheets with LM self-tapping screws.
On the frame base you can make additional lighting or install switches in doorway.
If plastic, wooden or plasterboard sheets will be attached without a frame, but directly onto the plaster, then the following should be done:
- Beacon profiles must be installed on the surface that has dried after priming. Using them you can create flawlessly flat surface slopes;
Beacon profile
- beacons should be attached to the solution. It is best to use Knauf gypsum mortar. This solution sets very quickly;
- We install beacons in 2-3 places and check the level;
- then we fill the slope with a solution of cement and sand (the proportion is 1:4). The resulting solution should be thoroughly mixed. This will be easiest to do using a drill with a special attachment. Sometimes gypsum is added to the solution;
- We align the applied solution along the beacons.
Note! Damaged cement-sand mortar should dry within 24 hours.
On the dried surface you need to apply a layer of Knauf starting and finishing putty. Further work surface the slope is leveled using an abrasive mesh. Now the surface of the door slope is ready for attaching plasterboard or other sheets.
To do this, you should select an adhesive solution. The choice is made based on the finishing material you use, as drywall, plastic or wood require different adhesives.
As a finishing material, we will consider installing drywall on an adhesive base:
- cut strips of the required size from the plasterboard sheet. It is not recommended to form plasterboard door slopes in separate small pieces;
- Apply the glue in an even layer. The best brands of glue are Knauf, Ceresit or Moment;
- apply glue to the strips of cut sheets;
- Carefully apply the sheets to the slope area and press slightly on it. You need to press until the material rests on the screw heads;
- We check the installed sheet with a level and, if necessary, adjust it to its position. This must be done quickly, until the solution has completely set;
- We seal the seams with putty (Knauf) and install the corners.
The final stage of finishing
Note! If there is a small gap between the sheets, it should be sealed with mortar.
At this point, the finishing of the doorway is considered complete. You just need to apply the final touches (paint, stick stucco, etc.), and install trims if necessary.
By using drywall You can easily and simply make a door slope with your own hands, and the results of the work will delight you for many years to come!
Author of the article: master
Expert of our site, Ilya Maksimovich. Experienced builder since 1990. Professionally finishes rooms using plasterboard sheets.
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Finishing slopes with plasterboard is quite easy to do with your own hands. The method refers to the most popular type of design for entrance doors, interior doors, and also for windows.
Installation is simple, and after installing drywall, the openings are beautiful, smooth and strong. There are other design methods, but using gypsum plasterboard is simpler and cheaper, especially if the seam on the window or doorway is large.
Properties of drywall
When planning to make window slopes from plasterboard with your own hands, you need to learn about the advantages and properties of the material. The first thing to notice is the ability to carry out work with your own hands, without the help of craftsmen. The final result will please you and meet all repair requirements.
After cladding, the material can be sheathed, the opening can be decorated with tiles and other finishing materials, for example, using painting or wallpapering. The main properties of drywall when designing slopes are presented in the table:
| Decent level of sound insulation and thermal insulation: | If you need a window opening and window sill, you can not only cover it with plasterboard, but also lay an additional layer insulating materials to enhance the structure and insulation qualities. |
| A light weight: | Due to the small mass of plasterboard, there is no need to use special technologies for installation; installation is carried out on a metal profile from which the metal frame is created or on adhesive mixtures. |
| Ideal plane: | The plasterboard sheets are perfectly flat, due to which the slopes on windows and doors will be smooth, which greatly facilitates the process of finishing with putty, and also speeds up the creation of slopes. |
| Breathability: | Due to its properties, the slope does not allow deformation, even if there are strong temperature changes or there is high humidity in the rooms. |
| Environmental friendliness: | Although plasterboard sheets may contain additives, the material is environmentally friendly and slopes can be made in children's rooms. Drywall does not emit toxic substances. |
| Minimum amount of garbage: | During installation work, there is almost no waste, dust and other debris from the plasterboard material. |
For window slopes made of plasterboard, it is necessary to choose the right sheets, which will have certain types of additives and other additives:
Drywall window slope
- To design slopes in a normal environment, in a residential building or apartment, standard drywall is used, which can withstand humidity up to 70%.
- When using plasterboard on the street side or in the bathroom and other damp places, moisture-resistant plasterboard is used; the material additionally contains antifungal and hydrophobic impurities.
- To reduce the likelihood of fire, for the slopes of windows and doors, it is used fire resistant material, which already contains admixtures of mineral wool and fiberglass. This type of plasterboard sheet is rarely used, but it is very durable in itself.
Important! Drywall is a breathable material, due to which it can absorb moisture and, if necessary, release it into the atmosphere without changing its shape.
Finishing a window slope with plasterboard (video)
Advantages of plasterboard cladding
The material has been used for window and door slopes for quite some time. This is not surprising, because it has a number of advantages:
- Environmental friendliness and safety for human health.
- Low material cost.
- Easy to install.
- Minimal maintenance of ready-made slopes.
- Stylish look.
- The ability to make an arched opening and other complex shapes.
- Long service life of plasterboard slopes.
- Possibility of additional insulation of windows or doors.
- Versatility: used not only for windows and doors, but also used for leveling ceilings and walls.
Important! Although plasterboard material has a number of advantages, it also has a disadvantage: the sheets are easily damaged mechanically, even material protected from water can be destroyed due to prolonged contact with it.
Preparation for finishing
Before making slopes from plasterboard, you will need to prepare a window or door. In terms of preparation, a plasterboard door slope and a window slope are almost the same, but for doors the following is taken into account:
- Presence of communications. For example, wires for the Internet, electricity or a call. The installation is done before the installation of the doorway begins.
- Possibility to install second entrance doors. The need arises if the first door is not insulated, and the sound insulation of the doors does not matter.
Removing foam from a slope
Preparing the opening is as follows:
- When an old window or door is dismantled and a new product is installed, the foam remains and its remains are cut off.
- Use a hammer or other device to remove plaster and other protruding parts on windows and doors. Often there may be a metal pin and other elements under the plaster; they are cut off.
- The gap, hole and other defects in the opening must be puttied.
- The joints that appear between the window frame or interior doors must be coated with sealant.
- After the putty and other mixtures have dried, a primer is applied in two layers around the perimeter of the opening.
At the end preparatory work The opening is completely cleaned of dirt. Everything is swept and dried. In order not to damage the window or door frame, it is sealed with masking tape and cardboard.
Frame method of finishing slopes
Frame method of finishing slopes
The frame design method is convenient and practical. True, installation of the material is somewhat more complicated, because the U-profile needs to be fastened with self-tapping screws, which is more difficult and takes longer. The fixation is carried out securely, everything is screwed in flush with the drywall so that the frame is strong. Step by step, you can make the sheathing of the opening yourself like this:
- Wooden planks or metal profiles are used for the frame.
- The material is cut to fit the opening. The slats need to be installed along the entire perimeter of the slope, on the internal and external corner. For reliability, cross bars are attached.
- If desired, insulation, in the form of mineral wool, is placed into the frame; it is installed in ready-made cells.
- Now the plasterboard sheets cut to size are fixed. Trimming is carried out only if the manufacture of the frame is completed.
- At the end the sheathing is carried out plasterboard sheets directly to the profile or slats.
The advantage of this method is the need to line the slope and adjacent walls. The disadvantage of this method is that it reduces the space in the opening, especially when it comes to a door.
Glue method for finishing slopes
Glue method for finishing plasterboard slopes
There is an option for decorating the slope using an adhesive solution or putty. Instructions on how to glue drywall are presented below:
- Place putty or glue on the cut parts. When using putty, it is better to use a finishing compound. The material is applied around the perimeter and slightly in the middle.
- The prepared slopes are moistened with water and drywall can be glued to the slope. Initially, the top element is installed, and then the side parts.
- When the wall and drywall are connected, you can press down the sheet and shake it a little to the sides so that the glue spreads and the drywall itself sticks.
- If the sheet is fixed tightly and does not move, then everything is left until it hardens completely. According to the advice of the experts, it is better to wait about a day or even two. If the drywall is not securely fixed, it is recommended to support it with strips at the edges and in the middle. When the mixtures dry, the planks are removed.
The disadvantages of the method are similar frame technology, but here are the advantages: the work is done faster, not as expensive, and as reviews show, the installed slope lasts for 10 years, nothing lags behind the walls. From the outside, the glue is immediately removed if it comes out, until it hardens.
Installation on polyurethane foam
Fastening window slopes to polyurethane foam
You can seal the slope by fixing the drywall with foam. The seal is very simple, but is used if there are few defects on the slopes and holes small sizes, up to 3 cm. When large sizes, defects must be sealed with foam before installation, correct method filling potholes - using cement mortar or starting type of plaster. You need to sew it like this:
- Dismantle the old coating, remnants of plaster and foam. Next, large potholes are filled.
- When the holes are dry, polyurethane foam is applied to the drywall from the back side of the material. The foam layer is no more than 1 cm. The material is applied in the form of a snake.
- The plasterboard material is placed on the slope and pressed against it. The pressure on the drywall must be strong so that the foam adheres to the slope.
- After this, the drywall comes off, and on the slope and finishing material foam remains. After 10 minutes the foam will increase in size.
- The drywall is again mounted into the slope and pressed against the wall. If necessary, fix the material with spacers and leave it for up to 24 hours without continuing work.
- The next stage is sealing the drywall seams on the slopes using plaster.
Puttying a window slope
The disadvantages of this design of door and window slopes are quite large. The biggest disadvantage is that the surface will first need to be leveled, otherwise the sheet of drywall will not work. Drywall on slopes may bend during installation. There are voids left on the door/window slope, making the fixation not very reliable. But this is the most quick method for finishing slopes with plasterboard. When a window or doorway is covered with plasterboard, using any described method, the opening is finished various materials. But before finishing the slopes, you need to do the following:
- The slope is puttyed with a thin layer.
- On the outside of the opening, protection is placed and a corner is formed using a plastic perforated corner, which is covered with putty.
- Another layer of putty is laid down to completely level the surface.
- Finishing material is selected.
Advice! Painting is used for decoration; you can paint it in any color, for example, the color of a door or window, wallpaper in a room, or use standard white paint. Photos on the Internet will help you decide on your choice; a bay window in an apartment in different colors looks very nice.
Painting is not durable, so for part of the slopes a panel type of material is used, for example, plastic for slopes, instead of plasterboard, PVC panels and other materials, this good material, made according to GOST, is distinguished by its durability. The video shows step-by-step work with drywall; you can use the method for doors and windows:
A modern front door is not only protection from unexpected guests, but also an integral part of your home interior. Gone are the days when the owner was content with home-made metal doors, whipped up in a garage. After all, today factories offer high-quality products for every taste, with a huge variety of colors and shapes. And most importantly, for any wallet size. And along with the door, the question always arises: how to decorate the doorway of the front door.
You can, of course, invite a specialist and entrust this matter to him. But if you are an enthusiast and are ready to overcome difficulties head-on, then it is better to take the work into your own hands. Moreover, following simple instructions with photos, you can make slopes for entrance doors no worse than famous craftsmen!
There are several options for finishing door slopes: installation plastic panels, Kranospan panels, surface plastering. They all have both pros and cons. Therefore, today we will look at the most practical, beautiful and easy-to-install type of slope cladding - plasterboard. So let's get started.
Tools and materials
Actually for work we need a set of tools:
- stationery knife or for drywall;
- something flat on one side and long along the height of the slope ( for even cutting of drywall) roulette;
- level;
- pencil;
- screwdriver or drill;
- hammer drill with concrete drill 6 x 60;
- hammer;
- putty knife;
- container for mixing the solution.
List of materials:
- plasterboard wall;
- Perlfix plasterboard adhesive;
- mushroom dowels 6 x 60 with screw;
- plastic starting guide for drywall;
- metal screws “LM”;
- the doorway itself.
View of the doorway after installing the new door.
The procedure for finishing entrance door slopes with plasterboard
To begin with, remove the protruding polyurethane foam with a knife or spatula if it is in the way. Then we drill holes around the perimeter in increments of about 20 cm, drive dowels into them and screw in the screws not completely. We need them for better adhesion of drywall to the concrete surface.
We measure the dimensions of the starting guide on three sides of the door opening and cut them off. The upper guide can be made to cover the width of the entire opening, since two side sheets of drywall will rest against the upper slope.
Starting guide.
Maintaining the same distance from the edge of the door frame, we screw the starting guide with LM screws so that the short side of the starting guide is inside the slope, and the long side is outside.
We measure three strips on a sheet of drywall the right size and cut them off.
Do not forget that the upper slope should be the entire width of the opening, because the side slopes rest on it. When cutting drywall, it is important to perform the technology correctly, otherwise the edge will be uneven and scattered. We apply something even and long to the line drawn with a pencil. In the photo there is an aluminum rule, but it could also be a piece of profile.
We cut through the top layer of paper near the sheet. Then we tap the slot on the back side to break the plaster, and on the other side we cut through the paper from the edges to the center.
It's time to mix the glue.
IN cold water add pearlfix mixture at the rate of 1 kg per 1 liter of water. The consistency of the solution should be between soft plasticine and thick fruit jam.
Stir the mixture with a spatula until the lumps disappear.
When you get a homogeneous mass, apply it to reverse side cut sheets of drywall with bloopers.
We also coat the pre-drilled dowels.
Everything is ready to install the front door slope.
We insert the edge of the drywall into the starting guide and press it against the concrete base.
Checking the level established slope and open it for several hours so that the glue can harden.
We repeat the procedure with the side slopes. If too much glue is applied, it will bend the drywall. Therefore, you need to get rid of the excess.
Gently tap the surface of the slope through a wooden block or plasterboard scraps.
Each time we check the result with a level or something even and long. You can use the remaining glue to fill the cracks around the perimeter between the sheet of drywall and the concrete base.
After 12 hours, the slopes will be ready for further processing: they can be puttied and painted.
Slopes for entrance doors made of plasterboard after puttying and painting will look very impressive, the structure will be able to serve a long and unpretentious life for its owner. (Article
