We assemble a house from profiled timber. Assembling a house from profiled timber: video, do it yourself. Last work when assembling the log house

Houses made of profiled timber are cozy and reliable. They proved their worth many years ago. Much time has passed, but the benefits wooden houses only adding up. Nowadays, such houses are built quite quickly, because they are assembled like children's designer. This is also facilitated by the presence special fastenings and availability of materials. In this article we will look at how you can build a house from profiled timber yourself.

Features of profiled timber

Profiled timber is a building material that is extracted from trees coniferous species, for example, pine, cedar, spruce, larch. If you look closely at the material, you will notice that inner side is smooth and planed, and the outer one has the shape of a semi-oval, or it can also be smooth.

There are special grooves and tenons on the sides that allow you to quickly and efficiently fasten the timber together. The main advantage of profiled timber is considered to be environmentally friendly, since it is made without the use of glue.

But do not forget that profiled timber is a tree on which pores remain. Over time, mold, fungi, etc. may appear there. Therefore, it is always necessary to treat wood with special protective compounds.

Profiled timber has practically no cracks, but if they appear, they can expand over time. It is very important to ensure that the cracks do not turn through. Also remember that everything wooden houses do not tolerate moisture. Therefore, you should carefully monitor the roof and not delay its repair. If your home will be periodically exposed to cold weather, additional insulation should be done.

Start of construction of a timber house

It is very important to design a house made from profiled timber. When you draw up a plan, make all the calculations carefully and accurately, since this will be very important important role in the purchase of materials. You can draw a design for your future home yourself, or you can contact a construction company. Before you start preparing for construction, you should understand that best time for construction - winter.

If you plan to harvest wood yourself, it is better to do this in the cold season and dry it for a long time at home. In this case, the timber will shrink evenly and calmly. But you should not go to extremes - in severe frosts it is better to refuse such work, since the tree can become very fragile.

When preparing material yourself, you must take into account all the factors and choose healthy tree no cracks. After this, you need to cut the logs evenly and treat them with a special antiseptic. You can purchase already ready material, which will be tailored to your needs. Also, grooves will be cut there, and you will just have to lay out the house from profiled timber with your own hands, like a designer.

Building a foundation for a house

Before you decide on the type of foundation you need, study the geological conditions. To do this, you need to find out the indicator groundwater, soil composition, look at the foundation structures of already built houses in this area. Strip foundations are often laid for houses made of concrete, brick or cinder blocks. The process of constructing such foundations is quite simple, but is characterized by high material consumption and labor intensity.

For wooden buildings From timber, a columnar, pile or shallowly buried strip foundation is ideal. Let's look at the scheme for constructing a shallowly buried strip foundation. It all starts with the markup. It is very important to be precise in this process. External and internal corners Mark buildings with pegs. After this, you need to combine them with cording to add volume. This way you will understand what the foundation should look like.

Two bayonets of a shovel will be enough. In this case, you should not deviate from the initial markings by more than 20 centimeters. After this, you need to put a crushed stone cushion. As part of this procedure, the bottom of the trench is covered with a layer of sand (or dense soil) of 10 centimeters and a layer of crushed stone of the same thickness.

You can make the formwork yourself or order it. Homemade formwork is made from wood that has no cracks or seams. When ordering, it is better to choose steel or plastic formwork. You must install the formwork in the trench and align it in the center. To increase strength, it makes sense to use reinforcement - parallel rods with jumpers. The diameter of the reinforcement must be at least 1 centimeter.

It is advisable to use a frame and at least 2 reinforcement belts. When welding, they should not be placed closer than 3 centimeters. The rods should fit freely into the trench, but not be closer than 5 centimeters. After this, you can moisten the formwork with water and begin pouring concrete. If you are using wood formwork, wet it down a bit to prevent the wood from absorbing moisture from the solution. The formwork is removed immediately after the solution has dried.

For insulation, you can use extruded polystyrene foam slabs of 5 centimeters each, and 8 centimeters at the corners of the foundation. When the sides of the foundation of a house made of profiled timber are tarred, crushed stone is poured in place of the formwork. This is necessary for waterproofing. The upper part of the foundation can be insulated using roofing felt. Then it is necessary to carry out backfilling, for which you can use previously removed soil.

Installation of base and floor

The construction of any house begins with the creation of a row, which is laid on a treated and leveled waterproofing foundation. It is worth noting that for external walls it is necessary to use timber with a section of 150 by 150 millimeters, and for the floor and internal walls - 100 by 50 millimeters. When the first row is laid, it should be treated with an antiseptic for good strengthening. After this, it is necessary to install floor joists, which should preferably be laid on edge.

These threads will serve as a guide for making the rest of the logs. Gaps and voids will form between the lags, which should be filled with insulation. As insulation, you can choose sawdust, polystyrene foam, isolon, mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

Using wedges from thin plywood or wood, you can adjust the height of the logs. You can strengthen the wedges using self-tapping screws or long nails. The logs are secured with anchors or dowels. After this, you can proceed to installing and strengthening the boards.

You should retreat one and a half centimeters from the wall and strengthen the first row of boards along a stretched line. Holes should be drilled for self-tapping screws. It is necessary to lay a board on each joist and strengthen it. If there are gaps between the wall and the floor, they can be covered with plinths or staples, which should be connected to the board and secured with nails. The subfloor is covered with thermal insulation on both sides. Boards with a cross section of 25 by 150 millimeters are suitable for it.

The floor can be laid with or without displacement, judging by the photos of houses made of profiled timber. First you must lay the first layer and lay the wood flooring on top of it. Remember about the waterproofing that is placed on the sub-base of the future floor. For these purposes, you can use penofol or dense polyethylene. On last stage The floor should be made of any material. A tongue and groove board 28 or 36 millimeters thick is perfect for this.

Construction of walls from profiled timber

To build walls timber house, it is necessary to lay out alternate rows of timber. Each subsequent row is fastened together using dowels (pins for vertical connection), which does not allow the timber to move or twist. Pins can be made of metal or wood. It is advisable to use the same wood from which the house is built. It is known that metal dowels are more reliable, but they are more expensive than wooden dowels, and the cost of a house made of profiled timber will increase in this case.

How are dowels installed? This happens according to the method brickwork, through two or three rows after one. To do this, you need to drill holes with a diameter of 3–4 centimeters. The dowels will be easily inserted into these holes. The distance between the dowels should be one and a half meters. Between the rows of timber, do not forget to lay a sealant for insulation. Where they connect external walls, it is advisable to use the “warm corner” method.

Partitions must fit into the main walls of the floor. For them, you can use timber with a section of 100 by 150 millimeters. The installation of partitions is done only after the construction of the log house.

If the dimensions of the house are larger than 6 by 6 meters, there should be at least one partition on the first floor, which will provide additional support for the floor on the second floor. If you want to reduce the price of a house made of profiled timber, interior walls can be made into frames. To do this, you need to create a frame from bars with a section of 50 by 50, cover it with clapboard or other material.

To wooden house was fire-resistant, all its parts must be treated with a fire retardant. You can apply it to the walls using a spray bottle or a paint brush.

And the last point that is worth understanding when building walls: pay due attention to creating window openings. In the places where windows are installed, it is necessary to cut out technological openings through which air will move while the material dries. When the house is finally settled, the windows can be installed. Window blocks for buildings made of profiled timber can be metal-plastic or wooden.

Insulation and finishing of the house

If the thermal insulation of a wooden house is of high quality, you can reduce heating costs. Wall insulation will significantly reduce your heating costs, regardless of fuel. Exterior decoration at home significantly increases thermal insulation, due to the reduction in timber moisture. It isolates it from various atmospheric precipitations. The most popular types of finishing are lining and siding, but it is better not to use siding for a wooden house.

You can use mineral wool, glass wool slabs, tow or flax-jute fabric. Glass wool slabs must be laid with foil vapor barrier material. This approach will help reflect heat into the room, and the vapor insulation will reduce moisture evaporation, which is known to steal heat.

It is worth noting that for insulation, according to the technology of houses made of profiled timber, it is better not to use polystyrene foam, since it will not allow the moisture of the wood to evaporate completely and will cause rotting of the wood. For the same reasons, you should not insulate walls with roofing felt, plastic film or glassine. It is better to use a vapor-permeable membrane material.

It is also advisable to trim the inside with profiled timber, as this will give you additional thermal insulation. Interior finishing can be made of lining, hardboard or plasterboard. Remember that the insulation should resemble a layer cake. Each layer must protect against heat loss and prevent the penetration of cold and moisture. If you plan to spend time in the house only in the summer, you don’t have to insulate it.

Roof for a house made of profiled timber

To cover the roof, you can use ondulin, corrugated sheets, roofing felt, and metal tiles. Remember that insulation should begin with the last or attic floor, and then move on to the roof itself. In accordance with the structure of the future roof, it is necessary to install ceiling beams, rafters and sheathing.

When the walls are built, ceiling joists should be placed that should protrude 50 centimeters beyond the base of the wall. The logs are made of timber with a section of 150 by 100 millimeters. They must be laid out on edge at a distance of approximately 90 centimeters from each other.

When the frame is ready, you can begin laying out the fronts, which can be made from siding or timber with a section of 150 by 150 millimeters. At the last stage, a sheathing with a cross-section of 25 by 150 millimeters should be nailed onto the rafters.

It is worth noting that the sheathing pitch should not be more than 400 millimeters. To prevent the accumulation of condensation, it is necessary to make a vapor barrier using a layer of waterproofing. If you used slate as a roof covering, and the attic is ventilated, you can avoid waterproofing during the construction of a house made of profiled timber.

When choosing a coating material, you must pay attention to the manufacturer’s advice, since different types coatings they can differ significantly. When installing, it is very important to follow the specified fastening techniques. Otherwise, the integrity of the roof may be compromised. If you strictly follow the principle of laying the selected material, you can easily build the roof of the house yourself.

Building a house from timber is perhaps the easiest way to build a house with your own hands. You don’t need any special skills to do this, and if you know how to use a chainsaw, you can easily handle this job. Assembling the house will turn out to be like the construction set you played with as a child. For this purpose, special fastening elements are provided along the edges of the material. You will also need a strong foundation and reliable roof! We hope this article will help you understand construction technology and build a reliable and beautiful house from profiled timber!

Houses made of profiled timber are modern look on wooden architecture. The technology is appreciated abroad, where it has been used for many years. Now it has gained wide popularity in Russia, which is facilitated by ease of construction and comfortable living. Such structures can be erected by ordering turnkey construction from a specialized company or by doing the installation yourself.

The secret of success lies in the specific properties of this building material. It is being manufactured made from natural wood and dried under industrial conditions. The most common material is pine, spruce, larch, but you can find bars from hardwood – oak, aspen.

Its main difference from ordinary timber – presence of a profile on both sides (along the entire length), providing lock connection using the tongue-and-groove system. The installation of structures from it is carried out according to the principle of a children's construction set, joining the elements together.

Basic advantages of the indicated houses:

environmental cleanliness;
simplicity and speed of installation work;
high thermal insulation parameters of the material;
low shrinkage when using well-dried timber;
aesthetic appearance, related to nature;
reasonable cost of materials and all construction;
maintainability;
possibility of using all kinds of finishing and facing materials.

Flaws houses made of profiled timber are determined by the properties of wood:

low moisture resistance;
tendency to rot;
cracking under certain loads and freezing of moisture;
shrinkage phenomena during operation.

The durability of the cobblestone walls of a wooden house depends entirely on protective measures - impregnation with anti-rot composition and reliable waterproofing.

Important. We should not forget that wood is a highly flammable material, which requires appropriate treatment with non-flammable agents.

Design stage of construction

Any capital construction begins with several important events.

Design

Documentation

Capital construction can only be carried out if the necessary technical documentation:

Foundation plan drawing based on calculations and soil characteristics (groundwater level and freezing), with specifications for the need for materials.
Plan of the entire structure based on the previous document.
A detailed plan with a floor breakdown, placement of rooms and capital elements (stove, fireplace, staircase, etc.).
Detailed plan of paving walls with planking and cutting in the main areas.
Specification of individual parts of the structure.
Roof drawing with details rafter system and roofing.
General view of the house from the outside.

Carrying out calculations of timber for a house

It is very difficult to calculate the required cross-section of a beam taking into account the loads, and therefore when choosing the size of a beam for walls, use the following standards:

utility buildings and small dachas– 10x10 cm;
standard houses for permanent residence, baths – 15x15 cm;
large houses and cottages elite class– 20x20 cm.

The amount of lumber is calculated based on a detailed plan of walls with planking. The required volume of timber (V) for wall masonry is determined as the product P*H*b,

where P is the complete perimeter of the house with all protrusions (m), H is the height of the walls (m), b is the width of the beam (m), minus window and door openings.

The number of beams is determined as V/(b*h*l), where b is the width, h is the height, l is the length of the beam (m). The specific length of the beams is determined by the planking of the walls.

Foundation

The laying and construction of the foundation is carried out in the following order:

Type selection foundation - strip or columnar (pile). For residential buildings, the strip version is most suitable. When constructing small structures, preference is given to columnar support.
Size calculation foundation. At the design stage, the depth of the foundation and the width of the strip (area and number of pillars, piles) are determined. For houses made of timber, a shallow foundation is built with a depth equal to the level of soil freezing (most often 60-80 cm).
Digging a trench or hole for pillars. Backfilling the cushion with sand and crushed stone.
Wooden installation formwork.
Laying of reinforcing elements from steel rods with a diameter of at least 12 mm. Linking them horizontally and vertically.
Fill with thorough compaction using a vibrator.
Overlay waterproofing and thermal insulation. A layer of roofing felt is laid on top of the pillow. Side surface The foundation is covered with bitumen and then with roofing felt. Thermal insulation of the side walls is made of, or.

The construction of walls begins after concrete curing, i.e. no earlier than 7-10 days after pouring.

Home construction

The construction of walls begins with the installation of a box, as it is commonly called the first crown of the log house. It uses timber with a size exceeding the size of the main elements. IN standard projects the use of timber is envisaged 15x20 cm. This detail of the house should be especially carefully be treated with an antiseptic. In addition, it is recommended to use larch timber.

Work order:

Laying roofing felt waterproofing over concrete.
Fastening metal pins in concrete to fix the lower crown of the frame.
Installation of larch backing board around the entire perimeter of the house.
Installing the prepared beams on the pins, forming the frame of the box.
Checking horizontality using a building level.

Subfloor installation

The subfloor or floor covering is made of wooden logs, which are fixed to the box at home. A groove is cut out on the lower beams to match the size of the lag. Soundproofing is placed on the bottom of the groove, rubber gasket. The log beams are laid parallel in increments of 40-60 cm. If the ceiling is high above the ground, then support frames are installed.

Between the joists it is laid waterproofing from roofing felt or polyethylene film and laid insulation.

Most commonly used expanded clay, ash or sawdust . You can use mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

A subfloor made of boards at least 25 mm thick is laid on top of the logs.

The first board is fixed at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the wall, forming a damper gap.

Wall assembly

Walls are built by alternate laying of crowns along the entire perimeter of the house with the formation of openings and the removal of internal, intermediate walls. There are several construction nuances that will be highlighted below.

Timber splicing

You can reliably connect the bars end-to-end in the following ways:

Straight rim lock. It is formed according to the “half-beam” principle, but in addition a tongue-and-groove connection is created. The total length of the joint is (3-4)h.
Oblique rim lock. The beams are joined along an inclined plane (at an angle of no more than 40 degrees), on which the step is made. The length of the connecting section is (3.5-5)h.
« Dovetail» . A tongue and groove of a corresponding trapezoidal shape are cut out at the ends of the beams.
Tongue connection. At the ends of the beams, grooves are cut in the center, into which, after joining, a wooden tongue is driven.

To strengthen the connection, joining surfaces covered with glue. Additionally, it can be reinforced with screws or nails.

Gusset

Forming the corner of the house is considered an important operation responsible for the reliability and appearance of the entire log house. That is why this element is normalized GOST 30974-2002.

The following methods are provided:

Butt (butt). This is the simplest, but least reliable connection. The end of the beam simply rests on the side edge of another beam. The next crown closes the connection.
“Half a tree” or “half a beam”. Exactly half of the timber is cut out at the ends of the joining elements, and then these sections are joined.
"Warm Corner". The previous options create through channels where cold can penetrate. Elimination of “cold bridges” can be ensured by forming a connection using the “ root thorn», « dovetail», angle with remainder. In the first case, the tenon and groove principle with a rectangular profile is used. Dovetail has the same principle, but the connection elements are trapezoidal in shape. When creating a corner with a remainder, one beam is cut into another, and their ends are brought beyond the surface of the wall.

Formation of the wall

The insertion of the wall into the main crowns of the log house can be achieved in the following ways:

Root Thorn T-shape.
« Dovetail».
« Into the bowl" This joint profile is cut in production conditions. At the time of buying complete set bars for standard house connection is made according to the instructions.

Fastening timber with dowels

The crowns of the log house are fastened during installation using wooden dowels. They are a wooden rod with a diameter of 16 - 22 mm and a length of 1.5 - 2 times the height of the beam.

The diameter of this element should exceed the size of the hole in the bars by 3-5 mm. The installation of dowels is carried out taking into account the following nuances:

A hole is drilled in three beams. It should start in the middle of the lowest beam, pass through the middle crown and end in the middle of the third beam.
The dowel is driven into this hole with a mallet, connecting the 3 crowns together.
The first hole is drilled at a distance of at least 20-25 cm from the end of the beam. If it is located closer, there is a risk of wood splitting when driving in the dowel.
The dowel installation pitch is 1.4-2.2 m.
The dowel should not reach the bottom of the hole to ensure shrinkage.

Insulation options during installation

The seam between the crowns is the area of probable " bridge of cold", which requires insulation. It is believed that you can do without it only if using a “German comb” as a lock profile. But even in this case, it is better to caulk the seam externally.

In other options, heat-insulating fibrous material is placed in the groove along the entire length of the beams - jute, linen. The thickness of such a gasket should not exceed 5-8 mm.

Roof

The roof of a house made of timber is made on the basis of a rafter system and, as a rule, has a gable design.

The following stages are distinguished:

Installation of ceiling beams. For this, a 15x10 cm beam is used. The beams cut into the upper crown of the log house. The insertion points are reinforced with dowels or anchors. The beam installation step is 60-80 cm.
Installation rafter legs . For rafters, beams of 10x10, 15x5 or 10x15 cm are used. The angle of the roof slope depends on the intensity of precipitation and the type of attic. At the top, the rafter triangles are connected by a ridge. Braces, crossbars, and racks are used as reinforcing elements. The installation pitch of the rafters is 80-100 cm.
Lathing. It is made from unedged boards, which are fixed to the rafters.
Roof waterproofing. Roofing felt is laid on top of the sheathing. If a warm attic is being built, then insulation (mineral wool) is applied under the waterproofing.
Roofing installation.
wooden flooring, draft ceiling. Laying thermal insulation and vapor barrier. Subfloor, attic flooring.

Installation of individual elements

When building a house, it is impossible to do without some specific elements. They create certain nuances in the work process:

Window and door openings. These openings are formed by installing the appropriate wooden box. A compensation gap is left between it and the wall, which eliminates the risk of deformation of windows and doors during the natural shrinkage of the structure. This space should not be filled polyurethane foam. Suitable material considered to be fibrous insulation in a vapor-proof wrapper.
Vertical elements. These include columns and various support posts or pillars. To avoid destruction during shrinkage, they are placed on an adjustable base (jack).
Roofing parts. To compensate for the shrinkage load in the rafters, a sliding element is provided at the point of their attachment to the frame. In some cases, the possibility of slipping is also provided in the area of the ridge.
Ladder. It is installed to enter the attic (attic) or two-story house. It is recommended to carry out final installation after complete shrinkage wooden structure(in 10-12 months). Load-bearing element The staircase is a bowstring or stringer, which is fixed between the floor and ceiling (interfloor) ceiling.

Attention. Stair elements It is not recommended to attach it to a frame, so as not to create mutual loads during shrinkage.

Interior decoration of the house

As interior decoration timber walls are often used, mounted on a lathing with insulation or directly on the surface of a log house, as well as a plaster coating. Both options can be done only after complete shrinkage of the wood.

It is especially pointless to plaster or apply plaster ahead of time. The coating will simply crack within a year, and the tiles will fly off.

External wall treatment

External processing of the timber frame is also necessary. For protection, such impregnating and covering agents:

Compositions for providing biological and fire safety. Recommended - OZONE-007, Senezh, Phenilax, Neomid.
Antiseptics – Senezh, Aquatex primer, Nortex concentrate.
Impregnating compositions with decorative effect– Senezh-Aquadecor, Krasula.

How is the price of a home determined?

The price of a finished modest standard house made of profiled timber for shrinkage ranges from 400 thousand rubles and higher.

Houses made of profiled timber are becoming increasingly common in different regions countries. The simplicity and speed of construction, as well as other advantages, ensure their popularity among people of different incomes.

The environmental friendliness of wood and the microclimate inside the house make wooden houses very popular. Wood retains heat well, looks great and is not expensive. Currently, several types of timber are produced.

Types of timber

Conventional timber is produced using circular saw by cutting 2-4 parts from a log. Then the timber is dried naturally or in drying chambers.

Glued laminated timber is produced by gluing together dried boards. Then the resulting material is processed on profiling or rounding machines. As a result, the timber is very strong, does not crack over time, and a house built from laminated timber practically does not shrink. Perhaps its only drawback is the high price.

The most inexpensive and easiest to install is profiled timber. Profiled timber is made from coniferous wood: pine, spruce, larch and cedar. Unlike ordinary timber, it has a groove(s) on one side and a tenon(s) on the opposite side. The grooves are made to simplify the assembly of the house and provide a tighter and better connection. The remaining two sides are planed smooth, either rounded to resemble a log, or have a slight chamfer.

For construction country house made from profiled timber, you should pay attention to its moisture content. It is best to purchase dried timber with a moisture content of no more than 20%. It is easier to build walls from dry material and it will not move after assembly. After purchasing building material, in order to avoid the accumulation of excess moisture, you should not allow long term storing it, and immediately begin assembling the box at home.

If you decide to use timber with natural moisture, then it is best to buy material that was harvested in winter, since the movement of sap during this period stops and there is no excess moisture in the wood.

Project

The house design is chosen based on personal ideas about what country housing should be like, and, of course, financial capabilities. You can buy the project from the relevant companies or draw it yourself. But in any case, it is necessary to coordinate it with the administration of the area where the house is planned to be built and obtain all the necessary permits. After obtaining permission, you must contact the woodworking enterprise where profiled timber is produced and order the amount of building material corresponding to the project.

Foundation

In the meantime, the material is being prepared in production, it is necessary to prepare the foundation for the future country house. At the time of buying finished project At home, there should be no problems with choosing the type of foundation. And when developing a project yourself, it is necessary to calculate all the pros and cons of different types of foundation. The most preferred type of foundation for a house with year-round use is belt type. This foundation is reliable and can withstand loads from two-story house made of timber and when building it with your own hands is not so expensive.

So, the first thing you need to do is determine the location on the site for construction and carry out the markings. Houses look beautiful when the foundation (basement) protrudes slightly beyond the wall, so the pegs need to be driven 5-10 cm further (to make the foundation wider) than the size of the house itself. Of course, this will entail additional costs for concrete, but it will not only provide beautiful view, but also uniform distribution of the load on the foundation from the house. Interior the foundation should also protrude beyond the wall. The floor joists will subsequently rest on the internal ledge. Let's give a simple example: under a house made of timber 150 mm wide, it is necessary to pour a foundation 300 mm wide, the outer part of which will protrude beyond the wall by 50 mm, and the inner part by 100 mm.

We mark the perimeter of the house by stretching ropes between the pegs. If the house has internal walls made of timber of the same size as the external ones, then under them it is necessary to pour the same foundation as the main one. A trench is dug with a width equal to the width of the foundation and a depth of 70-80 cm. You should not dig a wide trench; in the future, this can lead to inconvenience in installing the formwork, and even to a simple waste of concrete. It is necessary to make a sand cushion under the foundation. To do this, the bottom of the dug trench is covered with 15-20 cm of sand and compacted well with a tamper or by pouring copious amounts of water.

Formwork assembly

The formwork is wooden boards, assembled from edged or unedged boards 25 mm thick and 150 mm wide. A sufficient height of the foundation from the ground level is three boards assembled together, that is, 45 cm. It is not worth saving and making the foundation lower for a wooden house, since otherwise the lower crowns of the log house will get wet from the splashes of falling raindrops and fumes from the ground, and in spring-winter period - from melting snow.

After assembling the shields, they are installed in place of the dug trench opposite each other and fastened together. In the upper part, the boards are secured using a block, which is placed on top of the formwork and screwed with one screw to one board, and another to the other. In the middle and at the bottom, the shields are fastened together with thick wire. To do this, each shield is drilled opposite each other in the place of transverse fastening of the boards, a thick knitting wire is inserted into the resulting holes, the ends of which are twisted together from the outside. Inside the formwork, a thick screwdriver or a long nail is inserted between the wires and twisted together, controlling the distance between the panels with a jig. After twisting the wire, the conductor block is taken out, and a firmly fastened formwork is obtained, which does not require side support pegs. After installing all the panels and assembling the formwork, it is necessary to check its horizontalness using a laser or water level.

Expert opinion! It is best to immediately level the formwork and pour concrete, leveling it along its upper edge. In this case, we immediately get a perfectly level foundation horizontally and will avoid further problems with its leveling.

Now you need to lay and tie the reinforcement. For the foundation of a house, it is best to use reinforcement with a diameter of at least 12 mm. For a foundation with a width of 300 mm and a total height of 1 meter, three reinforcement belts of two rods each will be sufficient. If the reinforcement turns out to be short and you have to add more, then the overlap between each other should be at least 30 times the diameter of the rod itself. That is, if 12-diameter reinforcement is used, then the overlap should be 12*30=360 mm. The reinforcement is connected to each other with knitting wire.

Before pouring concrete, it is necessary to provide places in the foundation where there will be holes for ventilation of the subfloor. Asbestos-cement pipes are usually used for these purposes. They are sawed off to the size of the foundation and installed inside the formwork. To prevent the pipes from floating during the concrete pouring process, they are secured with nails or self-tapping screws.

All preparatory work completed, concrete can be poured. During and after pouring, it is necessary to “tap” the formwork with a hammer. This is done to release air from the concrete. After pouring, the upper part of the foundation is leveled with a trowel.

In the summer, the formwork can be removed after three days and after two weeks the walls of the house can be erected from profiled timber.

Assembling the walls of the house

During the construction of the foundation, materials, or rather profiled timber, were already manufactured in production and delivered to the site. Now you need to assemble the box of the house as quickly as possible and cover it with a roof.

Laying on the foundation waterproofing material and already he has the first crown ( bottom trim) Houses. For the first crown of the house, you can use ordinary timber.

Further, the installation process is similar to assembling a children's construction set. The beams are laid on top of each other and, to prevent displacement, they are fastened together with wooden or metal dowels. To do this, the timber must be drilled and a dowel inserted into the resulting hole.

Thus, several rows are fastened at once. Insulation must be laid between the rows.

In the corners, the timber can be connected both with and without remainder. This point can be resolved at the stage of timber production, at the factory and order the most suitable option corner connection or do it yourself. In any case, to avoid heat loss, gusset should be warm and made using the tongue-and-groove system.

If the house has two floors, then upon completion of the construction of the first floor, interfloor beams of preferably large cross-section (150*150 mm) are laid on top of the walls, at a distance of no more than 60 cm from each other. Next, the process continues in the same order as during the construction of the walls of the first floor.

Roof installation

After completing the construction of the walls, the installation of the rafter system begins. Most often on country houses do gable roofs with an inclination angle of at least 30°. 150*50 mm boards are used as rafters. They are assembled in the shape of the letter A and installed on the walls. First, the outer rafters are placed, a guideline (strong thread) is pulled between them, and then all the rest. The rafters are attached to the wall using corners or 300 mm nails. In the case of an insulated roof, a vapor barrier material is stretched along the rafters, and then installed wooden sheathing. A ventilated gap must be left between the sheathing and the vapor barrier.

Why nail the counter batten along the rafters, and then the sheathing itself. It is already possible to lay sheet metal on such a sheathing. roofing material(profiled sheets, metal tiles). And for soft roof you will have to make a solid base from plywood.

Interior decoration

The box is under the roof, you can go inside almost finished house. The initial task is to make the floors. To do this, floor joists are laid on the protruding part of the foundation at a distance of 60 cm from each other.

You should not save on them and purchase 150*150 timber for these purposes. We nail 150*50 mm boards to the wall on one side and the other, and arrange the subfloor.

We lay vapor barrier material between the beams, and then insulation. We cover the insulation on top with a vapor barrier material, provide a ventilated gap and lay floorboard. We obtain the gap by hammering a block onto the joists. Insulation of interfloor ceilings occurs in the same way.

A house made of profiled timber with your own hands will shrink. Therefore, all finishing work, in addition to those described by you, must be carried out only after complete shrinkage.

Depending on the thickness of the selected timber, further costs for its heating and the degree of its further insulation depend. Profiled timber is produced planed and does not require additional finishing except antiseptic treatment and painting.

Houses made of profiled timber are cozy and reliable. They proved their worth many years ago. A lot of time has passed, but the advantages of wooden houses are only increasing. Nowadays, such houses are built quite quickly, because they are assembled like a children's construction set. This is also facilitated by the presence of special fasteners and the availability of materials. In this article we will look at how you can build a house from profiled timber yourself.

Features of profiled timber

Profiled timber is a building material that is extracted from coniferous trees, for example, pine, cedar, spruce, and larch. If you look closely at the material, you will notice that the inner side is smooth and planed, and the outer side has the shape of a semi-oval, or it can also be smooth. There are special grooves and tenons on the sides that allow you to quickly and efficiently fasten the timber together. The main advantage of profiled timber is considered to be environmentally friendly, since it is made without the use of glue.

The material is also very warm and relatively inexpensive. These moments captivate many people. As mentioned above, profiled timber is quite easy and quick to assemble, which is good news for lovers of self-construction. But do not forget that profiled timber is a tree on which pores remain. Over time, mold, fungi, etc. may appear there. Therefore, it is always necessary to treat wood with special protective compounds.

Profiled timber has practically no cracks, but if they appear, they can expand over time. It is very important to ensure that the cracks do not turn through. Also remember that all wooden houses do not tolerate moisture. Therefore, you should carefully monitor the roof and not delay its repair. If your home will be periodically exposed to cold weather, additional insulation should be done.

Start of construction of a timber house

It is very important to design a house made from profiled timber. When you draw up a plan, carefully and accurately make all the calculations, since this will play a very important role in the purchase of material. You can draw a design for your future home yourself, or you can contact a construction company. Before you start preparing for construction, you should understand that the best time for construction is winter.

When preparing the material yourself, you must take into account all the factors and choose a healthy tree without cracks. After this, you need to cut the logs evenly and treat them with a special antiseptic. You can purchase ready-made material that will be cut to suit your needs. Also, grooves will be cut there, and you will just have to lay out the house from profiled timber with your own hands, like a designer.

Building a foundation for a house

Before you decide on the type of foundation you need, study the geological conditions. To do this, you should find out the groundwater indicator, the composition of the soil, and look at the foundation structures of already built houses in this area. Strip foundations are often laid for houses made of concrete, brick or cinder blocks. The process of constructing such foundations is quite simple, but is characterized by high material consumption and labor intensity.

For wooden buildings made of timber, a columnar, pile or shallow strip foundation is ideal. Let's look at the scheme for constructing a shallowly buried strip foundation. It all starts with the markup. It is very important to be precise in this process. Mark the outer and inner corners of the building with pegs. After this, you need to combine them with cording to add volume. This way you will understand what the foundation should look like.

After this, you can begin to dig a hole, the depth of which should not exceed 60 centimeters. But it’s also not worth making the depth too small, because we are building a house from profiled timber and do not want to reduce the strength of the structure with our rash actions. Two bayonets of a shovel will be enough. In this case, you should not deviate from the initial markings by more than 20 centimeters. After this, you need to put a crushed stone cushion. As part of this procedure, the bottom of the trench is covered with a layer of sand (or dense soil) of 10 centimeters and a layer of crushed stone of the same thickness.

For insulation, you can use 5-centimeter extruded polystyrene foam slabs, and 8-centimeter slabs at the corners of the foundation. When the sides of the foundation of a house made of profiled timber are tarred, crushed stone is poured in place of the formwork. This is necessary for waterproofing. The upper part of the foundation can be insulated using roofing felt. Then it is necessary to carry out backfilling, for which you can use previously removed soil.

Installation of base and floor

The logs can be installed on the foundation of the house and attached to the walls of the log house, as shown in the video about houses made of profiled timber. They must be placed indoors and left there for several days to get used to the temperature. Two logs should be placed on opposite walls and nylon threads should be stretched between them, every one and a half meters. These threads will serve as a guide for making the rest of the logs. Gaps and voids will form between the lags, which should be filled with insulation. For insulation, you can choose sawdust, polystyrene foam, isolon, mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

If you lay logs from boards 30 - 40 centimeters thick, then the distance between them should be 80 centimeters. If the thickness of the floor boards is less, the distance should be 50 - 60 centimeters, and for too thick boards - about 1 meter. Using wedges made of thin plywood or wood, you can adjust the height of the joists. You can strengthen the wedges using self-tapping screws or long nails. The logs are secured with anchors or dowels. After this, you can proceed to installing and strengthening the boards.

The floor can be laid with or without displacement, judging by the photos of houses made of profiled timber. First you must lay the first layer and lay the wood flooring on top of it. Remember about the waterproofing that is placed on the sub-base of the future floor. For these purposes, you can use penofol or dense polyethylene. At the last stage, you should lay the floor from any material. A tongue and groove board 28 or 36 millimeters thick is perfect for this.

Construction of walls from profiled timber

To build the walls of a timber house, it is necessary to lay out alternating rows of timber. Each subsequent row is fastened together using dowels (pins for vertical connection), which does not allow the timber to move or twist. Pins can be made of metal or wood. It is advisable to use the same wood from which the house is built. It is known that metal dowels are more reliable, but they are more expensive than wooden dowels, and the cost of a house made of profiled timber will increase in this case.

How are dowels installed? This happens using the bricklaying method, through two or three rows after one. To do this, you need to drill holes with a diameter of 3 - 4 centimeters. The dowels will be easily inserted into these holes. The distance between the dowels should be one and a half meters. Between the rows of timber, do not forget to lay a sealant for insulation. Where external walls are connected, it is advisable to use the “warm corner” method.

In one beam, you should cut out a protrusion of the required size, and in the other, you should cut out a groove with similar parameters. Some layers of timber can be alternated with grooves and tenons. This will greatly strengthen the structure, and the corners will not be blown out. If you are building a house with one and a half floors, the walls of the second floor need to be raised by approximately 1200-1500 millimeters, this depends on the steepness. Partitions must fit into the main walls of the floor. For them, you can use timber with a section of 100 by 150 millimeters. The installation of partitions is done only after the construction of the log house.

If the dimensions of the house are larger than 6 by 6 meters, there should be at least one partition on the first floor, which will provide additional support for the floor on the second floor. If you want to reduce the price of a house made of profiled timber, the internal walls can be framed. To do this, you need to create a frame from bars with a section of 50 by 50, cover it with clapboard or other material. In order for a wooden house to be fire resistant, all its parts must be treated with a fire retardant. You can apply it to the walls using a spray bottle or a paint brush.

And the last point that is worth understanding when building walls: pay due attention to the creation of window openings. In the places where windows are installed, it is necessary to cut out technological openings through which air will move while the material dries. When the house is finally settled, the windows can be installed. Window blocks for buildings made of profiled timber can be metal-plastic or wooden.

Insulation and finishing of the house

If the thermal insulation of a wooden house is of high quality, you can reduce heating costs. Wall insulation will significantly reduce your heating costs, regardless of fuel. The exterior decoration of the house significantly increases thermal insulation by reducing the moisture content of the timber. It isolates it from various atmospheric precipitations. The most popular types of finishing are lining and siding, but it is better not to use siding for a wooden house.

Roof for a house made of profiled timber

To cover the roof, you can use ondulin, corrugated sheets, roofing felt, and metal tiles. Remember that insulation should begin from the top or attic floor, and then move on to the roof itself. In accordance with the structure of the future roof, it is necessary to install ceiling beams, rafters and sheathing. When the walls are built, ceiling joists should be placed that should protrude 50 centimeters beyond the base of the wall. The logs are made of timber with a section of 150 by 100 millimeters. They must be laid out on edge at a distance of approximately 90 centimeters from each other.

After this, you should assemble a rafter system from boards with a section of 50 by 150 millimeters. This structure is the skeleton of the roof, so it needs to be strongly strengthened with racks, crossbars and braces. Rafters should be installed in increments of no more than one centimeter. When the frame is ready, you can begin laying out the fronts, which can be made from siding or timber with a section of 150 by 150 millimeters. At the last stage, a sheathing with a cross-section of 25 by 150 millimeters should be nailed onto the rafters.

When choosing a coating material, you must pay attention to the manufacturer’s advice, since they can differ significantly for different types of coatings. When installing, it is very important to follow the specified fastening techniques. Otherwise, the integrity of the roof may be compromised. If you strictly follow the principle of laying the selected material, you can easily build the roof of the house yourself.

Building a house from timber is perhaps the easiest way to build a house with your own hands. You don’t need any special skills to do this, and if you know how to use a chainsaw, you can easily handle this job. Assembling the house will turn out to be like the construction set you played with as a child. For this purpose, special fastening elements are provided along the edges of the material. You will also need a strong foundation and a reliable roof! We hope that this article will help you understand construction technology and build a reliable and beautiful house from profiled timber!

The decision to build a house from timber is not made immediately or suddenly. It’s just that this technology, with a simpler assembly of walls, allows you to obtain excellent characteristics for housing: for the Moscow region, timber 195 mm thick is sufficient. With such a thickness of the external walls it will be warm, but to save on heating it is better to insulate it (10 mm mineral wool on the outside) and make a reversible façade. Then there will also be savings on heating.

Plasticity in processing is one of the advantages of wood

Which wood to choose

Coniferous wood is usually used to build a house. There are several reasons. Firstly, the increased content of resins, which are natural preservatives and antiseptics. Thanks to their presence, wood does not deteriorate for a long time. Secondly, affordable price. You can, of course, build a house from beech or oak beams, but the price will be simply exorbitant. Thirdly, the wood is soft and easy to process.

Of all the coniferous species, a house is most often built from pine beams. With good characteristics, it is relatively inexpensive. Houses made of larch and cedar are rarely built: they are too expensive. Spruce is even rarer, but for a different reason: it deteriorates the fastest, and is also difficult to process. So, regarding the type of wood, there is, in fact, no choice. 95% of it is pine. But you need to understand the type of timber.

According to the processing method, timber can be:

Regular or solid, unplaned timber. Sawed from a single log, the cross-section is a quadrangle (square or rectangle).
Profiled timber. It is also sawn from a single log, but is then processed: tenons and grooves are formed with milling cutters - profiles with the help of which one beam is joined to another. The side edges are also processed. They come out of the machine already planed. The section is of complex shape. The side edges can be smooth, rounded, figured - with chamfers, the shape of a “lock” - numerous beards and notches.
Glued timber. Outwardly similar to profiled, but assembled (glued) from several boards.

Let's look at the features of each type of timber regarding the construction of a house.

House made of ordinary timber

If earlier they said that they decided to build a house from timber, then they clearly understood the usual rectangular timber. There was simply no other one or it was too expensive: it was brought from abroad. Ordinary timber is the most affordable, if you take the cost per cubic meter. But, as a result of all the required measures, the cost of construction may be higher than from a profiled one. It's all about the characteristics of the material. They lead to significant additional costs even at the construction stage: when building a house from unplaned timber, inter-crown insulation is necessarily used. Its geometry is not ideal, and if this is not done, the blowing through the gaps between the crowns will be very strong. The second feature is that the surface of the walls turns out to be uneven and it is impossible to do without finishing the inside and outside.

In addition to laying the inter-crown layer, the delivered log house is caulked, additionally sealing the seams. You need not just one caulk, but at least two, sometimes more. And all because it is made from wood with natural moisture. In practice this has the following consequences:

Another feature of a house made of ordinary timber: the walls are uneven. To give them a “decent” look, they are either sheathed finishing materials, or polished. But grinding is a controversial undertaking: the inter-crown seal makes it almost impossible. Even if you manage to sand the timber, where should you put the seams?

So it turns out that the cost of the house may be higher as a result: to the cost of the timber, add inter-crown insulation, material for caulking and the work itself (and it is not cheap), the cost of external and internal finishing. Please also note that they deliver moldings to your site - bars of the ordered length. The bowls are cut on site. This means that the qualifications of carpenters must be high. How warm the corners will be depends on how the cut is made. And in timber house It is the corners that are the most problematic places.

Features of profiled timber

When examining profiled timber, the first thing that catches your eye is the almost ideal geometry and smooth surfaces. At least that's how it should be. At good quality execution, no finishing is needed: the wall immediately turns out even and smooth, even if it’s ready for painting.

The second, also quite obvious feature, is that due to the fact that the edges that join two profiled beams have recesses and protrusions (locks), there cannot be through gaps. Manufacturers of profiled timber say that you can lay walls without inter-crown insulation: it will be warm anyway. But few people listen to them. They put in at least thin insulation. Some use a thin backing under the laminate, others use self-expanding tape for installation plastic windows, as well as jute tape and similar materials.

In the photo, by the way, the most common Lately developers have a “comb” profile. It can have a “tooth” of different heights and widths, and everyone loves it because, in theory, it is impossible to “blow through” it. However, even here they play it safe by installing insulation.

Several typical timber profiles (the two on the far right in the picture are laminated timber, but the exact same profile is made from solid wood)

In general, there are a lot of profiles. Some of them are in the photo. When choosing a supplier, you need to pay attention not only to the shape of the locks, but also to how they are made. The match in any pair should be maximum.

Having decided to build a house from timber with a profile, you need to decide on its humidity. Profiled timber can be of natural humidity (cheaper), or it can be chamber-dried with a humidity of no more than 14-16%. The features of lumber with natural moisture have already been considered, now let’s talk about chamber drying. The enterprise installs large drying cabinets, into which the finished profiled timber is loaded. There, in conditions of elevated temperatures, it loses excess moisture. At the same time, all the processes that usually accompany drying wood occur in the chamber: it bursts, it twists. Accordingly, part is scrapped, and the rest is sold at a higher price. The reasons seem clear.

If you decide to build a house from kiln-dried timber, you can start finishing earlier. The log house should still stand, but it will take 9-12 months. At the same time, new cracks rarely form; existing ones only expand. But it is worth keeping in mind that due to the high costs of drying, most often they only reduce the humidity to operational - 16-18%, while chamber-drying wood is considered to be 8-12%.

In any case, the cracks will need to be sealed. Caulking is needed in very limited quantities: first of all, you will have to look at all the corners and notches, if any (this is what they call the places where the walls are attached). Even a well-made bowl can dry out unevenly, causing a gap to appear. The beam can also turn out, which will also lead to the appearance or expansion of a gap. So periodic revision of the angles is also required during operation. Wood is a living material and will change all the time. Also, after a year of sludge, you will have to repair too large cracks in the timber (without fanaticism, so that the tow does not open the crack).

The log house is assembled from numbered blanks with a molded bowl (numbers in blue at the ends)

The situation may be simpler with the assembly. If you just order lumber, you can cut corners from profiled timber, as from regular timber, on the site. But many enterprises, if they have a project, offer to take on part of the work themselves. Using a special program, they lay out the timber: they make a list of “spare parts” from which the house will be assembled. Then, according to this list, blanks are cut out, with molded bowls. The blanks are numbered and delivered ready-made to the site, where the house remains to be assembled like a construction set: folding the beams according to the numbers marked on the plan.

This is convenient, especially if you are going to build a house with your own hands without construction experience. It is clear that the service is not free, but you can save on paying carpenters: you do not need to assemble such a highly qualified designer. Only in this case, whether your house will be warm or not depends on how accurately the bowls are made in production. Sometimes there are companies that make very low-quality cuts. You can see several of these in the photo.

Poorly made bowls - the blowing will be incredible, and caulk will not help much

In general, it has its disadvantages and its advantages, but compared to ordinary timber, profiled timber is more convenient in construction, and in terms of price it may even be cheaper if you count the finishing.

Glued laminated timber

From the name it is clear that it consists of glued parts. First, the lamellas are cut out, treated with antiseptics, dried to a certain moisture content, and then glued together. Due to the complex manufacturing process, the price tag for this material is approximately 2.5-3 times higher than that of conventional material and 80-90% higher than that of profiled material.

What are its advantages? Properly made, it does not crack, it does not shrink: dry material cannot shrink, and glued beads should have a moisture content no higher than 12-15%. Therefore, the finishing process, if the width of the timber is sufficient to compensate for heat loss, can only be reduced to painting or varnishing, since protective impregnation is carried out at the enterprise (should, in any case).

What does laminated veneer lumber and its profiles look like?

Another consequence of the lack of shrinkage is that after just a few weeks, the folded frame can be immediately placed under the roof, and after another few weeks, finishing can begin. This time is necessary for the bowls to shrink, and the geometric dimensions of the laminated veneer lumber should not change. That is, there is a significant saving of time - everything, including finishing work, can be done in one season.

But are glued beads really that good? In terms of speed of construction, yes. But it has serious drawbacks. First: it is glued. This crosses out one of the main advantages of wood - environmental friendliness. Secondly, its vapor permeability is low. Many people build wooden houses precisely because of their ability to naturally regulate indoor humidity. Glued laminated timber lacks this due to the presence of layers of glue. Of all the advantages of wood, only its attractive appearance remains, but when finished with clapboard of the appropriate profile or a block house, it looks exactly the same. Therefore, the use of laminated veneer lumber to build a house is a very controversial issue.

Stages of building a house made of timber

A log house has several advantages:

The walls turn out to be light, which is why the load on the foundation is low, which means that the costs of its construction will be lower.
Wood is an elastic material and it compensates for small movements of the foundation without compromising the integrity of the building. And this, again, allows you to make shallow foundations on well-draining soils.

The choice of foundation type depends largely on the soil, but most often it is done if there is no need for a basement, you can put a columnar one (for small buildings of temporary residence - dachas, bathhouses, etc.) or without). It is advisable to base the choice on the results of geological research. The process is described in more detail.

While the foundation is “setting,” the wood is prepared. All timber and dowels are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. Use compounds that do not form a film on the surface of the log. They will not interfere with the drying process. After preparing the timber, the actual construction of the house begins:

Cut-off waterproofing. To prevent the wood from the foundation from drawing moisture, it is necessary to lay a layer of hydrophobic material. Previously, two layers of roofing material were laid under the first crown. Today there are more modern materials- coating and roll. You can use them, and in combination: coat them, stick them on a roll.
Laying the trim crown. The timber is selected without signs of blue, with minimum quantity knots. Preferably - from the middle part of the tree - with a maximum density of annual rings. It is additionally treated with impregnations intended for wood in direct contact with the ground. In order to ensure better preservation of the first crown, there is a trick: lay it on the waterproofing wide board, soaked bitumen mastic with working out. Another layer of waterproofing is placed on it, and the first crown is placed on top. All these layers are connected to the foundation with studs that are embedded in the foundation.
Rough floor. The floor logs are attached to the first crown - a beam with a section of 150 * 100 mm. They are laid in increments of at least 70 cm. To make it more convenient to work, subfloor boards are laid out along the joists without nailing them.
Assembling walls from timber. If a wall kit with ready-made bowls is not ordered, they are “slaughtered.” Cut out according to the template. A template is drawn from a piece of plywood, traced, and then cut out. A chainsaw is used more often, but a fairly high degree of proficiency with the tool is required: how warm the house will be depends on the accuracy of the cut. The shapes of the timber connection are shown in the picture.

We have already talked about laying inter-crown insulation: when using regular timber it is required, for profiled timber it is advisable in bowls, the rest is optional. The crowns are connected to each other by dowels - long round bars carved from a single piece of wood, dowels - rectangular in shape or pins - metal rods. In any case, a hole is drilled under the connection into which the connecting element is driven.

The order of work depends on the type of roof chosen. When installing a simple installation, rafter legs are installed, but the order is different. A windproof membrane is rolled out and secured onto the assembled rafter system. In this form, the house is left to dry out for a long period of time.
Door and window openings. To speed up drying and shrinkage, you can cut out window and door openings, install a frame or fixing strips. Door and window units Do not install until the end of the main shrinkage.

After a year or two you can start finishing works. All the time while the log house is settling, it is necessary to monitor the processes occurring in the wood. It is necessary to immediately inspect the corners and, if necessary, caulk them. Then monitor the condition of them, as well as the beam connections. If the dowels are driven in with great force, during drying the timber may hang on them, causing cracks to form. The problem can be solved by hanging around: take a huge wooden hammer and knock on the walls, causing faster shrinkage. The same technique is used if the house is settling too slowly.

The video shows the main stages of how to build a house from timber. Despite the lyrical digressions, there is a lot of valuable information.

How to build a house from timber: photo report

They built such a house.

We ordered a wall kit for the project, and a strip foundation was poured under it.

They brought blanks with sawed-off bowls. They were carefully unloaded, while inspecting them for any defects. One beam turned out to be problematic - it was in the middle of the bundle and suffocated - it became covered with fungus. It was postponed for a separate “treatment”. The rest were covered with impregnation (Valti Pohusta) and stacked.

To avoid problems with fungus, a spacer is laid under each - boards lying across.

Rolls of insulation and dowels were also purchased. The Nagels were sent to bathe in the impregnation. IN old bath poured the impregnation and left them for half a day, then took them out and dried them.

The first crown - a half-beam - was laid on top of the waterproofing laid on the foundation. It has no grooves at the bottom.

It was pulled to the foundation with anchors to studs poured into concrete.

The first crown was laid. The one that was previously fixed on the foundation is often called “zero”.

Let's measure the diagonals. In order for the cups to stack without problems and to avoid distortion, they must be equal. The permissible distortion is a couple of millimeters.

Having aligned the diagonals, we drill holes for the dowels. To prevent holes larger/smaller than the required length, a wood stop was placed on the drill.

The walls are gradually growing. We fasten them in a checkerboard pattern with dowels.

In general, the timber is more or less normal, but there are problems with incorrectly sawed cups. When we lay the timber, we get a huge gap. The only way to combat this is to manually adjust the cups so that everything lies evenly.

It takes a long time to eliminate these inconsistencies, but gradually all the walls are laid out.

Walls made of profiled timber were removed

Let's start assembling the rafter system. First, as is customary, the two outer trusses are installed, then everything else, according to the project.