It is best to insulate the walls immediately, during the construction of the house. However, there are times when you need to insulate the walls from the inside. As a rule, apartment owners face this when harsh winters are stronger than the builder's insulation. Professionals say that it is not recommended to insulate walls from the inside for several reasons.
- This will "steal" some of the space. The fact is that in addition to the insulation, which in itself is quite voluminous, the place will also take facing materials, without which it will not be possible to do. You can insulate the walls from the inside on your own, without resorting to the services of professional builders.
- At temperatures below -18 degrees, concrete walls in apartment buildings freeze, ice is in contact with the insulation, and this affects the main characteristics of insulation materials.
- At temperatures from 0 degrees to +10 degrees, condensation forms between the insulation and the wall. This can also degrade the quality of the insulation system.
Therefore, when warming, it is necessary to adhere to the two most important rules:
- Be sure to create a vapor barrier. This will protect against the formation of condensate and all the negative consequences associated with it.
- It is necessary to think over the ventilation system. If the ventilation is done poorly, then the moisture that should be removed through it will settle in the corners of the room. Because of this, a whole colony of unwanted and harmful microorganisms can form in the room.
You can insulate the walls from the inside on your own, without resorting to the help of professional builders. However, in order to do this, you need to study a sufficient amount of information in order to avoid errors.
The point is that for different walls There is different types heaters. What works well for a concrete wall may not work at all for a brick or wood wall.
Today we're going to look at three types of materials that are suitable for keeping warmth and comfort inside your home. Each of them is good in its own way and has a number of drawbacks.
In everyday life, this type of insulation is often called simply mineral wool. This is a synthetic insulation with a fibrous structure. It is also called stone because it is made from basalt minerals. During the construction of modern buildings, heat and sound insulation is usually carried out using mineral wool. Minvata has a number of advantages that consumers are guided by:
- Mineral wool is cheaper than many other materials, and this is an important factor, especially when carrying out large volumes of work.
- The length, width and thickness of mineral wool can be different, which means that you can choose the option that you need and not adjust to the characteristics of the insulation.
- When working, its structure reduces spraying.
- Mineral wool is packaged in small neat bales, which simplifies its transportation.
- It has a low level of thermal conductivity.
- Relaxes well.
- Not affected by chemicals.
- Does not change shape under pressure.
- Mineral wool - non-combustible material, resistant to temperature effects
- Water repellent.
In the end, mineral wool is very easy to use and therefore perfect for do-it-yourself room insulation.
However, the negative qualities of mineral wool for thermal insulation of the house should also be taken into account. With strong heating, toxic substances are released: phenol-formaldehyde, carcinogenic fractions, etc. It is also not at all useful for the body to inhale particles of mineral wool from the air.
From what is written above, it is clear that working with mineral wool is not safe for your health. Therefore, prepare carefully before proceeding. The room that needs to be insulated must be fenced off from the rest of the rooms with a partition. Try to make sure that drafts do not walk around. Be sure to use a protective respirator, rubber work gloves, goggles. Keep children and animals away. When you're done, clean up immediately and thoroughly, changing all your clothes with clean ones.
Before starting work, you need to choose the material that suits you to achieve your goals. Mineral wool is divided into several types and types.
Types of mineral wool:
- Lungs. Density - 10-90 kg / m3. Used to insulate structures with a frame.
- Heavy. Density over 90 kg/m3. They are used to insulate frames, as they are resistant to heavy loads.
- Technical. This type is of no interest to us, it is used for warming technical equipment.
Types of mineral wool, depending on the materials from which the insulation is made:
- Stelovata
- stone wool
- slag wool
Internal wall insulation with wool is always in the same sequence. With experience, you will get through much faster.
So, let's begin.
The first stage is preparation
It is necessary to clean the surface of the remnants of paint, wallpaper and other materials, remove all protrusions. Then treat the walls against mold. Aligning the walls is not at all necessary, all irregularities can be eliminated during thermal insulation.
The second stage is the installation of the frame
Assemble the frame itself from metal strips at a distance of 5-10 cm from the wall. The frame may well be wooden, but the tree, as the builders say, "walks" and therefore this option is undesirable. The profile step in the vertical direction is from 60 to 100 cm.
Stage three - vapor barrier
Sheets of foil film with a shiny side are overlapped in the room. It is better to fasten the joints of the film with a special adhesive tape.
Stage four - laying mineral wool
We lay cotton wool between the slats of the finished frame. Lay as tightly and carefully as possible, because the quality of thermal insulation in the room depends on it.
The last stage - facing work
Cover the frame with drywall or plywood. Sand the surface thoroughly.
Ready! In a warm room, you can start finishing work. Create! Nothing will limit your imagination, since such insulation will withstand any materials.
Drywall
Drywall (gypsum board) a good choice when warming the room. It itself has an insulating effect, which will be enhanced by the air cushion that forms behind it.
How to insulate a room from the inside with drywall with your own hands?
This operation can be freely carried out without the help of professionals in several stages.
Measure the room and estimate how many sheets of plasterboard you will need in the process of work.
Then clean the walls from the remnants of wallpaper, paint, stucco and other debris. Be sure to carry out the treatment against mold, in no case should such walls be covered with drywall. Putty the walls and let the putty dry completely, only after that you can proceed to the next step.
Build a frame. Of course, you can sculpt drywall directly on the walls, but there will be little sense from such insulation due to the lack of an air cushion between the wall and the plasterboard. It has already been mentioned above that wooden frame subject to deformation and it is better to give preference to metal. Under suspensions and guide profiles it is necessary to lay a foam tape. This prevents the penetration of cold from the outer wall.
We sew drywall sheets onto the finished frame.
That's all, you can start finishing work. Drywall not only insulates the room, but also improves the microclimate in it.
Penofol
Penofol insulation with a base of polyethylene foam of different densities, covered with a thin layer of polished aluminum foil. Foam thickness varies from 2 to 40 mm, but 4 cm is used only in harsh climates. The thickness of the foil layer is only 20 microns. In fact, penofol is the same thermos. For the first time it began to be used for the manufacture of spacesuits. Later these technologies were applied in construction.
This material has a mass positive qualities:
1.Environmental friendliness. The same materials are used for storage food products. According to some reports, penofol even protects against radiation.
2. This insulation is very thin, so it practically does not hide the living space. And this is a weighty argument in favor of penofol for wall insulation from the inside of the house.
3. Additional vapor barrier is not required, which means that do-it-yourself thermal insulation will be easier to do.
4. When working, the foam will not crumble and break, it is easily cut and does not require any additional complex tools and overalls.
- It will not be gnawed by rats and mice. This is especially true for private houses, in the thermal insulation of which rodents often gnaw through passages.
- It is easy to transport due to its small thickness.
But, like any insulation, penofol has its drawbacks:
- It is impossible to apply finishing materials on it, because. it is very soft and will simply bend under their weight.
- It is difficult to attach, although there is a type of penofol with a self-adhesive film. It is not worth nailing it, it will worsen its main characteristics.
Therefore, penofol, with all the variety of its advantages, is often used as additional material, which will protect the walls from moisture and reflect thermal energy.
How to insulate the walls from the inside with penofol with your own hands?
Check the quality electrical wiring where you will insulate the room. The fact is that the aluminum layer of penofol is an excellent conductor, which means that it should not be allowed to come into contact with bare wires.
The frame on which the insulation will be attached should provide 2 cm after and before the penofol. The step between the vertical rails of the frame should not exceed 1 meter.
Penofol is attached to the frame end-to-end (if it is overlapped, it can form condensation) using a furniture stapler. The seams are sealed with aluminum tape.
Content
Owners of private real estate must choose whether to insulate the house from the outside or from the inside. The thermal insulation layer will prevent heat leakage from the premises. Almost all professionals agree that insulating a house from the inside is advisable only in some cases. There are situations when thermal insulation mounted outside is ineffective. This happens when errors were made in the calculations or the work was not done well enough.
Choosing a heater for warming the house from the inside
Installation of special material for interior walls can also be a preferred option if the facade of the house is already well finished. It does not need to be dismantled, re-investing in repairs. What are the difficulties in carrying out finishing works? How are they carried out in accordance with SNiP? What is better and is it possible to insulate the walls from the inside? Let's consider all these questions in more detail.
Features of warming the house from the inside
To understand how to properly and how to insulate the walls of the house from the inside, you will need to use the tips experienced builders. When not right choice thermal insulation, various problems may arise. The effectiveness of such work is reduced to zero. In the room with the wrong finish will be damp. The question naturally arises: is it possible to insulate the house from the inside? The answer is unequivocally affirmative.
There are technologies that allow you to create internal insulation in an apartment, house and other buildings. The characteristics of each method will be discussed in more detail below. Now the main thing is to understand that the arrangement of thermal insulation indoors will reduce heat loss by up to 30%. And this means that energy bills will also decrease markedly.
What difficulties can a master who equips a layer of thermal insulation in a house from the inside with his own hands face?
To understand how important it is to choose suitable materials, it is necessary to consider the dangers of improper installation of thermal insulation. Possible negative consequences of internal insulation of the house are the following facts:
- The dew point (condensation formation) will be shifted inside the room. Condensation will appear on the walls in frost. The wall has no outer protection. So she will skip cold air. It will meet with the heated internal air masses of the premises at the junction of the thermal insulation and the wall. Therefore, condensation may appear on the surface of the finish. This will increase the humidity in the room, the formation of an unhealthy microclimate, as well as the appearance of fungus. Finishing materials will begin to deform. Decorative plaster or wallpaper will begin to lag behind the base.
- An unprotected building wall loses its ability to retain heat inside the building. When heated, it will quickly come out. This will require more energy to maintain a comfortable temperature in the room. Utility bills will rise significantly.
- It is not possible to mount a layer of thermal insulation in the area interior partitions. This is an area of significant heat loss.
- The interior space is shrinking. This is especially noticeable in the small rooms of standard apartments.
Disadvantages of insulating the walls of the room from the inside To insulate a country cottage with your own hands indoors, it is important to do all the work according to the instructions. Otherwise, it will be difficult to be in such buildings in winter.
Troubles after installing thermal insulation indoors can be associated with such a phenomenon as the dew point. It depends on the temperature difference between outside and inside the room, as well as the level of humidity.
This effect can be clearly demonstrated using an ordinary bottle. If you draw water into it and leave it in the refrigerator for several hours, the temperature of the glass and contents will decrease. Next, the bottle can be taken out of the refrigerator. After a few minutes, you may notice that the outer glass is covered with condensate (“sweat”). The temperature difference on both sides of the glass resulted in moisture at the dew point. That is why, when considering insulation options, it is necessary to calculate the dew point.
The walls inside the house have the same effect. The decrease in temperature in winter can be -30 ºС or more. There are heaters in the living quarters. They maintain a predetermined temperature level (on average +20 ºС). This temperature difference causes condensation to form. The higher the humidity in the room, the more condensation forms.
When creating a layer of thermal insulation outside a country house, the dew point shifts from the room to the outside. However, the installation of insulation inside the room moves it further from the outer surface of the wall. As a result, condensate falls right inside the room, on the layer finishing material.
People live comfortably in wooden, concrete, brick house at a temperature in rooms of +20 ... +22 ºС. At the optimum humidity level of 55%. Condensation under such conditions will appear on all surfaces that will have a temperature of +11 ºС or lower. If the insulation material reaches this value, wet drops will appear on it.
When creating a heat-insulating layer outside the room, the dew point moves inside the facade. Therefore, it must be made ventilated so that moisture is removed from the system. Features of this design allow you not to change the finish for many years.
High humidity leads to the development various diseases. If a fungus appears on the walls, there is a need for urgent dismantling of the finish and treatment of the wall with a fungicide.
To avoid significant costs in the future, finishing should be done correctly. There are several methods that allow you to make internal insulation of the walls of a private house or apartment.
How to avoid negative consequences with internal insulation
Before starting work, the master should study the advice of experienced installers on how to insulate the walls from the inside in a private house or apartment.
Thermal insulation of walls from the inside - It is necessary to fix a layer of special waterproofing (polyethylene is not suitable). It is overlapped. Joints must be securely sealed.
- The result of all work depends on the choice of thermal insulation. Purchase materials that are characterized by minimal vapor permeability. In this case, it will be possible to prevent the appearance of moisture on the surface of the wall.
- Plates of finishing material must be installed closely on the base. It is not recommended to apply an adhesive coating on the surface of thermal insulation in islands. In this case, voids will form under it. Moisture will collect in the cavities. The adhesive is applied in a thin, even layer over the entire surface of the wall-insulating material.
- Indoors, you need to create high-quality natural or forced ventilation. On windows it is recommended to mount special valves to create a complete air exchange. If SIP panels were used during the construction of the building, ventilation must be compulsory. For this, air ducts are installed special devices powered by electricity.
- The technology of wall insulation from the inside involves an accurate calculation of the heat-insulating layer. At the same time, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the material itself, as well as climatic factors, features of the operation of the premises. Do not average the obtained values.
- The base of the wall before installation will need to be treated with an antiseptic. For this, a special primer is used.
For a house insulated from the inside, it is important to eliminate all cold bridges. To do this, the materials are laid so that they cover the surfaces internal partitions, ceiling and floor.
Proper selection and installation of thermal insulation material
Today you can buy different kinds insulation for walls from the inside. All of them have advantages and disadvantages.
When choosing a material for insulation, they take into account the structural features, indoor conditions, etc. Features of the operation of the premises significantly affect the parameters of thermal insulation. So, wall insulation from the inside frame house will be somewhat different from the insulation of a brick building. Concrete walls protect against freezing with thick, dense types of thermal insulation. The panels used to sheathe the frame of the house, created using Canadian technology, may already have a layer of external thermal insulation. Inside, in this case, you will need to mount a thin insulation on the base.
Mineral wool
Thermal insulation with mineral wool Considering the better to insulate the walls of the house from the inside, pay attention to mineral wool. This is one of the best options for creating a layer of insulation for exterior walls. However, for interior decoration it is suitable only in some cases.
Cotton wool is characterized by a high rate of vapor permeability. External insulation with such material will be effective. If cotton wool is used inside the room, condensation will appear on the wall surface. However, mineral wool insulation also has many advantages. This is an environmentally friendly material. It does not cause allergies, does not emit harmful fumes into the external environment.
This is a non-flammable heater. Mineral wool can be used for internal insulation of a house made of SIP panels, which has a layer of external insulation.
The material is sold in the form of plates and rolls. The first option is preferable. The installation of this wall insulation is carried out using special profiles made of aluminum or wooden slats. They are mounted at a small distance from the surface. The first layer of mineral wool is tightly glued to the prepared surface of the walls inside the room. The second layer is laid between the frame rails. In this case, the plates must be displaced relative to the first layer. A vapor barrier and drywall are mounted on top.
Styrofoam and XPS
Thermal insulation with polystyrene foam Thermal insulation of walls from the inside is often done using foam boards or expanded polystyrene. The second option is preferable. Its density and specifications better. A feature of this type of insulation is the ability to keep moisture out. It is recommended to use extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) with a density of at least 25 kg/m³.
Do-it-yourself internal insulation of the house in this case is quite simple. Epps boards are glued onto the prepared surface. Each subsequent row should be shifted relative to the previous one. For installation, polyurethane glue is used. It is applied to the entire surface of the XPS.
Joints must be carefully insulated with silicone (preferably sanitary) sealant. If there are large gaps, they are blown out mounting foam. On top of the heat-insulating plates, reinforced fiberglass and a layer decorative plaster. You can glue sheets of drywall instead.
polyurethane foam
Thermal insulation with polyurethane foam Today, more advanced simple ways wall insulation from the inside. A very popular technique using polyurethane foam. This is one of the good options. In this case, it is not necessary to install a frame, glue the plates to the surface of the walls. The material is sprayed onto the surface. It forms a durable layer, which is characterized by low thermal conductivity. The material does not get wet, does not pass water. It is more environmentally friendly than polystyrene foam, so it is more suitable for wall insulation.
The polyurethane foam coating is firmly bonded to almost any surface. It can be applied not only to walls, but also to the ceiling. At the same time, all cold bridges are qualitatively insulated with polyurethane foam. In the place where the dew point can appear, moisture simply will not accumulate. She doesn't get in here. The walls will remain dry.
After surface treatment, a plaster mesh is mounted on it. Next, layers of putty are applied. Features of polyurethane foam are ease of application and efficiency.
Conclusion on the topic
Installation of insulation indoors is not without certain disadvantages. However, knowing how best to mount the selected thermal insulation, you can expect an excellent result. Even a non-professional will be able to perform all the steps correctly. In this case, condensate will not accumulate on the wall surfaces, and heat loss will be significantly reduced. Finishing will be used for a long time and efficiently.
Did you insulate the facade, but made a mistake in the calculations? Or finished it with expensive materials? And in the winter they realized that saving on external insulation goes sideways. The boiler is working at its limit. Gas bills are frightening with numbers in the “Total” column. It is better to insulate the house from the inside than to pay for heating the street. Do not know how to insulate the walls from the inside in a private house? Read, learn, use.
Insulation of the house from the inside is carried out when it is impossible to carry out or insufficiency of external insulation. Need to stop at cons of this method of saving heat in rooms:
- insulation of external walls internal heat increases the degree of their complete freezing in the cold season, which adversely affects their condition;
- The "dew point" (a place in building structures with zero temperature) shifts to the inside of the wall, which leads to an increase in humidity in the room, the risk of mold and mildew;
- there is a loss of 10% of the usable area of the interior.
Are there any advantages to this method of room insulation? Undoubtedly. They are the following:
- work is carried out at any time of the year, day and night in any weather;
- there is no need to purchase (rent) equipment for work at height;
- more simple and inexpensive materials are used;
- increases the likelihood of doing home insulation work with your own hands.
Avoid negative consequences wet walls, black mold spots, fungal spores with inside possible, subject to the technology and the correct choice of thermal insulator for a particular case.
Consumer Requirements
Insulation from the inside requires a particularly reverent attitude to the choice of insulation material. Placing it inside, in close proximity to a person, in a limited space, requires him to comply with safety standards.
What is the best way to insulate a house? It is necessary to determine what is an important and necessary condition for the choice. Wall insulation inside the house must meet the following requirements:
- have a high degree of environmental cleanliness;
- during operation, do not emit substances harmful to breathing into the environment;
- do not collapse for a long time;
- have a certain resistance to biological, chemical, mechanical stress;
- ensure the required level of fire safety.
What is used to insulate a private house from the inside? Fibrous and polystyrene foam insulators.
Characteristics of heaters
Knowledge of the features and qualities of heat insulators will allow for effective internal wall insulation. The information obtained will help to understand how to insulate vertical surfaces made of a particular material, as well as to determine those works that will eliminate the impact on a person of the negative qualities inherent to one degree or another in each thermal insulator.
Mineral wool and organic insulation
Fibrous insulation is the most common, well-known and studied materials. The long service life made it possible to thoroughly study their positive and negative sides. They allow you to insulate the house from the inside with your own hands.
Produced from fibers of various origins, they have a large amount of air in their volume, which provides good thermal insulation properties.
The use of natural stone and organic materials provide the necessary environmental safety.
Basalt heaters have zero fire hazard and biological activity (the spread of microorganisms, such as spore fungi and mold), the rest are quite low due to the use of impregnation with flame retardants and stabilizers in their production.
Availability a large number voids inside the material provide good air circulation in the thickness of the insulation, but increase the likelihood of moisture accumulation with insufficient vapor barrier of the layer, which can lead to a loss of heat-retaining capacity.
They have sufficient resistance to the vital activity of rodents, are passive to active chemicals. They easily tolerate mechanical transformations, and when the load is removed, they restore their volume.
Do not break down under the influence of sunlight. Require protection from wind loads.
The production technology provides a service life of 50 years. Warming the walls of the house with mineral wool from the inside is one of the most common insulation options.
Expanded polystyrene boards and liquid polyurethane foam
Despite some difference in form, manufacturing and installation technology, these materials are combined into one group due to the extreme closeness of their chemical and physical properties and consumer qualities.
The extremely low coefficient of thermal conductivity is ensured by the presence in the mass of a huge number of closed volumes with gas.
This physical structure provides almost zero water absorption and zero vapor permeability.
Produced on the basis of chemical components, they have a high degree of fire hazard. They light up when exposed to open fire, spread the flame over their surface, emit toxic combustion products. Not resistant to chemical agents. Decompose under the influence of ultraviolet radiation.
When providing the required operating parameters, they are harmless to humans, do not emit harmful fumes into the air. Biologically passive:
- do not allow the development of microorganisms;
- not used for food by rodents and insects;
- unsuitable for them to live.
Excellent resistance to mechanical stress. To a certain extent, they resist bending and breaking.
Technology is the key to success
There is nothing universal. This fully applies to heaters. Before insulating the house from the inside, it is necessary to find the combination of wall material, heat insulator, applied technology, which will provide the maximum possible insulation private house from the inside.
House with "breathing" walls
Often, insulation located inside the walls of wooden, frame, block houses is not enough to maintain comfortable temperature in the premises. How to insulate a building made of porous or wooden materials? For such structures, the use of fibrous insulation is recommended.
This is based on the fact that these wall materials absorb moisture from the surrounding air when it is in excess and give it back when it is deficient, self-adjusting the humidity in the rooms. Fiber-based heat insulators provide the necessary amount of air to pass through them, maintaining the natural state of the internal environment.
How to properly insulate a private house from within? Do-it-yourself thermal insulation in a house with walls made of wood, gas, foam concrete, cinder blocks is carried out as follows.
A wooden crate is installed over the walls, ensuring the existence of a ventilation gap between the vertical surface and the insulation. The recommended clearance is 25 mm. On its basis, a crate for laying slabs will subsequently be installed. Therefore, it is necessary to install it at a distance of 30 mm less than the width of the insulation for the installation of plates by surprise.
A vapor barrier film is installed on top of it, which does not allow moisture to penetrate into the thermal insulator from the side of the wall. At the same time, it does not allow him to fill the ventilation gap. Fastened with construction stapler horizontal stripes from bottom to top. The subsequent layer is superimposed on the lower one with an overlap provided in the manufacturer's instructions. The joints of the canvases are sealed with reinforced double-sided tape.
Ignoring this operation will violate the tightness of the insulating belt, will lead to the penetration of moisture into the insulation, wetting it and reducing the heat-retaining capacity by at least 50%.
A beam is fixed on top of the vapor barrier for the installation of insulation boards (mats). Its height should be equal to the thickness of the heat insulator layer. If laying will be done in 2 layers, then the height of the timber should be equal to half of the used one.
An insulator is placed close to the vapor barrier membrane. When laying two-layer slabs of the 2nd level, they must overlap the joints of the first.
Installing a vapor barrier membrane. It will protect the created layer from the penetration of moisture from the side of the room. The technology of its fastening and installation is the same as that of the membrane from the side of the wall.
Internal insulation ends with the installation of counter rails, creating a passage for air between the insulation and the internal finish.
When laying the insulation under the lining, located vertically, the counter rails must be installed horizontally.
The installation of the base for interior decoration is underway.
House with stone walls
Such materials reasonably include brick, concrete, a natural stone. What and how is such a building insulated?
Before insulating the walls of the house from the inside, it is necessary to take care of the good operation of the ventilation system, since in such rooms the absorption of moisture from the air in the rooms occurs only at the level of decorative finishes.
As it, in addition to the standard installed and provided for during construction ventilation ducts, you can use the chimney pipes of heating stoves, boilers of heating systems, internal fireplaces, valves on windows with double-glazed windows.
Since the walls do not absorb water vapor and, therefore, do not give it away, the insulation has zero vapor permeability, the use of vapor barrier membranes is impractical.
To insulate the walls inside a stone house, it is necessary to use heat insulators similar in properties. These are polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam.
Expanded polystyrenes are foamed and extruded. The former have a much lower mechanical strength than the former, and a higher thermal conductivity coefficient (by about 15%).
If the question arises: "Is it possible to insulate the house with foam?". We answer: “Yes, you can. Styrofoam is expanded polystyrene foam.
In order to insulate the walls from the inside of the house, you need to start by preparing the surface. The masonry is cleaned of dirt, dust, paint, protrusions. If there are recesses of more than 5 mm, they are filled with a cement-sand mortar.
Cracks expand and are sealed with mortar or foam. The entire surface is coated twice with a deep penetration primer.
For gluing the plates, a special adhesive mixture or polyurethane foam adhesive in cylinders is used. Glue is prepared immediately before use by mixing with water according to the instructions for use. Mixed with construction mixer and delivered to the job site.
Glue is applied to the plate in two ways:
- trowel - around the perimeter and a few "slaps" in the middle for uneven walls (height difference is about 1 cm);
- with a notched trowel - over the entire area with even walls.
- Applying polyurethane foam adhesive to the board is done with a foam gun around the perimeter and in the center along the length of the side.
Is it possible to insulate a house from the inside with polyurethane foam? How then on uneven surface install a finish? Before insulating a private house with polyurethane foam spraying, install on the wall wooden crate from a bar, with a height greater than the thickness of the insulation layer.
The slabs are laid from the bottom up along a previously broken horizontal line. The next row is set with an offset of half a plate (as brickwork).
Excess glue that has come out is removed immediately. Seal the gaps between the foam plates with mounting foam. Extruded polystyrene foam has special grooves at the ends of the plates to ensure their tight fit to each other without the formation of cold bridges.
Thermal insulation from the inside can be arranged in one or two layers. With two-layer insulation, the plates of the 2nd layer must overlap the seams of the 1st.
A frame for installation is installed on top of the insulation finishing from sheet, panel or lamellar materials and its device is carried out.
Wall insulation from the inside will give a good effect if the installation technology is followed, which will significantly increase the comfort of living if it is impossible to carry out insulation from the outside.
Winter can bring pleasant emotions. But only if you can enter the house and enjoy its warmth. To do this without extra heating costs, you need to take care of the thermal protection of your home in advance.
Peculiarities
Wall insulation is significantly different from the work of keeping heat in the floor or ceiling. Much less often resort to the use of bulk materials. It is necessary to take measures to ensure that the bulk substance does not cake under its own weight. The value of the thickness of the structure is critical. It should not take up much space in the room. No less significant is the severity of the insulation block: if it is very massive, it will be necessary to strengthen the foundation, which will lead to its rise in price. All this means that decisive importance belongs to the right choice of insulation blocks and systems.
materials
An increasing number of people are now using mineral wool "Isover". It guarantees an optimal microclimate in the living room, regardless of the heat or cold outside. Its main technological characteristics are:
- thermal conductivity is 0.041 W xm xK;
- effective damping of outside noise;
- the average density is 13 kg per 1 cu. m;
- absolute protection from fire;
- reliable protection from condensate (subject to leaving a gap for the removal of moisture of at least 20 mm);
- the minimum time of stable operation is 50 years;
- perfect sanitary and environmental safety.
If the wall cannot carry a significant load, it is quite practical and convenient to insulate it with Izover. This solution guarantees complete protection from the cold, no matter what construction material is used. If the outdoor temperature reaches extreme positive or negative values, thermal insulation will retain its basic qualities. But you should not take Isover as a universal solution. Like any mineral wool, it can have a detrimental effect on the human body and animals.
Under this brand, material with various characteristics is supplied. This:
- lightweight structures;
- general construction soft slabs and mats;
- mineral insulation under the pitched roof.
Installation of insulation for a cinder block house is strictly required. When it comes to cold housing, there is little joy. A considerable part of craftsmen and amateur builders try to insulate cinder block structures with foam plastic. It transmits little heat and is quite mechanically strong, although it has a low density. What is very useful, there is no need to spend money and time on the installation of a waterproofing membrane.
Polyfoam has good antiseptic properties. Buying it is not difficult for people with any income level. But there is a serious limitation: the risk of fire. Initially, you will have to apply a primer to ensure the most powerful adhesion to the substrate.
A prerequisite for success will be the installation of a fiberglass reinforcing mesh. This mesh is of two types: for internal and external reinforcement. It is undesirable to confuse such types.
Insulation also has its own characteristics. aerated concrete walls. Cellular concrete blocks contain many gas bubbles (hence the name). They must be insulated in any case, regardless of the production in an autoclave or without it. Designed for aerated concrete whole line heaters, but more than other options, the most popular varieties are polystyrene and polyurethane foam. The second material is considered more reliable and modern. But its application without the help of a team with special equipment is impossible. Styrofoam and polyurethane foam are less durable, but the owners of the houses themselves can use them.
Aerated concrete can be isolated from frost with simple mineral wool. But this should only be done as a last resort. The ability of cotton wool to concentrate water vapor will adversely affect the properties of the blocks. Such houses will also have to be insulated from the inside. For this purpose, experts recommend the use of plaster mixes. And precisely inner work in terms of insulation precedes the external one, and not vice versa.
In many cases, builders use stone wool. This stuff really deserves its reputation. It is obtained from basalt, metamorphic rocks, marl. Typically, construction companies purchase the basalt version for the most critical projects. But it is equally important to take into account the level of acidity. The less pronounced the alkalinity of the cotton wool insulation, the harder it is, the longer it will work.
To improve water resistance, phenol-formaldehyde resins and other additives are added to stone wool. Therefore, it is important to find out which chemical composition mixtures so as not to encounter sudden toxic effects. Although the stone wool itself will not catch fire even when heated to 1000 degrees, its binders will evaporate already at 200. Therefore, in the event of a fire or other emergency, all the insulation will have to be removed and replaced with a new one.
The advantage of such thermal insulation is also the fact that all excess moisture leaves rooms or work areas without lingering in the insulation. As for the negative points, here you need to remember the abundant dusting and the inevitably high price of products. When buying material, you should pay attention to the conditions of its storage. You can not buy cotton wool outside the factory packaging and without a shrink film. It is recommended to check the packaging so that there is no leakage. It is unacceptable to store material on the street without a canopy or awning. When stored in cardboard boxes, technological requirements prohibit placing them where even a slight dampness is present.
Scheme
Insulation of the concrete wall of the house from the inside is practiced in cases where it is impossible to perform external work. Concrete creates many difficulties and problems in the winter, and in apartments it is almost always insulated inside. The services of industrial climbers or lifting equipment are very expensive. In addition, the housing inspection almost never considers the project of selective thermal protection of a single apartment. Doing work without approval means facing a wave of fines or deprivation of housing for arbitrariness.
The easiest way to keep warm concrete house with plaster. But it does not always give a decent effect. In the coldest regions or even the corner of the house, the microclimate will not return to normal. The first steps in any case are the exposure of the structural surface and antiseptic treatment. Then you have to wait for the complete drying of the substrate. Insulating plaster is done in three stages:
- spray;
- primer layer;
- nakryvka (external decorative coating).
The initial thin layer is a solution of 1 share of cement and 4 (5) shares of well-sifted sand. This solution must have a liquid consistency in order to stick to the surface. The layout is made with a hard spatula. Make an effort, trying to introduce the solution deeper into the pores of the base. The total thickness of the first layer can reach 1 cm, it must be done evenly over the entire surface.
The primer layer is created using typical cement plasters of the appropriate category. But it is better at this stage to make a choice in favor of a material with reduced thermal conductivity. The primer is laid in a layer of 5 to 6 cm, and it is created in three steps. Each subsequent treatment is carried out only after the drying of the already applied material. Next, you need to make a front cover (not thicker than 0.5 cm).
Coating mortar - finishing putty, diluted with water to a liquid state. The work is carried out by rubbing this solution into the primer. When the treated surface dries, it is further improved by grouting and sanding. If such a solution is not effective enough, you will have to veneer concrete wall foam.
As in the previous case, you can not do without antiseptics.
The dried disinfected wall is covered with a finishing liquid putty with a layer of 0.5-1 cm to level the surface. Then, in any case, waterproofing is laid with a layer of 3 to 5 mm. The foam is glued with a specialized powder composition, which is stirred in water 90-120 minutes before the start of work, turning it into a thick homogeneous lump. You need to smear the entire wall evenly with glue, the sheets themselves are enough only in the center. Gluing is carried out with slight pressure, the joints must be tight.
The seams after gluing the sheets must be covered with putty or mounting foam. The final hardening of the adhesive, depending on its formulation and working conditions, occurs 48-96 hours after application. You can strengthen the attachment to the wall with plastic dowels. The final plastering of the foam is carried out on a polymer mesh. It should be embedded in glue, covered with final plaster (necessarily rubbed and sanded).
Technically, the insulation of concrete with fibrous materials, including mineral wool, is attractive. Under it, you will have to create a frame made of wood impregnated with antiseptic preparations. The rails must be fastened vertically (from the top to the bottom of the wall), the distance between the lines is approximately 0.6 m. Attach the material to the rails with anchors, drilling 3 holes in each wooden part.
To do this, take a drill with a diameter of 0.8 cm. The slats themselves are held with concrete screws. The gaps between the slats are supposed to be laid with roofing material. Above it is the cotton layer. The insulation is laid in 2 or 3 levels, a foil-insulating steam-insulating film is placed above it. She is pressed against the rails on construction staples. The insulating block is closed on top for decorative purposes:
- drywall;
- chipboard;
- plywood.
In private construction, brick-built houses are very popular. They are even more popular than concrete ones, because they are not much inferior to them in strength, keep heat better and are more aesthetic. But the thermal qualities of the best grade of bricks are not enough to protect against Russian frosts. So that condensation does not drip from the inside of the wall, and icy drafts do not walk around the house, you can apply:
- expanded clay;
- mineral wool;
- penoplex;
- Styrofoam;
- expanded polystyrene;
- insulating plaster;
- EPPS;
- cork;
- ecological cotton.
External insulation with polyurethane foam is carried out on a frame made of wood or metal. The same material is suitable for internal thermal protection. If the house is still planned to be built, you can lay the interior brickwork into the project. Such a step is no worse than special plates or rolls. First of all, they put up an external wall, raise it to 150 cm, and steel bars are sequentially inserted into the seams of the fifth or sixth rows. Immediately after this, tiles or thermal protection sheets are mounted, and they begin to lay an internal brick row.
When thermal insulation is achieved due to expanded clay, up to 150 cm raise the outer inner wall, which are separated by a gap of about 0.15 m. From this point, construction is carried out to the upper planned line. If it is planned to insulate the house from the outside, this work is first carried out with a foundation and a plinth. outer wall thoroughly cleaned, only under this condition, the finish will be an effective measure. Extruded PPS or foam plastic is laid outside, initially leveling the walls with plaster and priming them.
The insulation is placed using glue or steel dowels. Installation is carried out from the bottom up in a checkerboard pattern to increase the stability of the structure. If it is planned to create a ventilated facade, start by attaching a vapor barrier block, on top of which a frame is placed. A cotton wool insulation is placed in this frame, which is additionally covered by a hydrobarrier. All three insulating substances are attached with dowels.
Typical exterior finish in this case, siding.
Internal insulation with foam plastic or EPS on brick is not very practical. These materials are poisonous and burn easily. Before the start of warming, antiseptic primers are applied, they effectively suppress fungal aggression. Waterproofing and rain protection with overhangs for silicate brick must be more careful and thoughtful than for an ordinary ceramic block. It is recommended to use concrete with the addition of expanded clay for masonry. Its thermal conductivity will immediately drop by 50%.
Putting expanded clay inside the walls will be most effective when choosing a large fraction (this will reduce the load on the foundation).
When it is impossible to insulate brick wall outside or in the middle, for internal insulation, materials with the lowest permeability to water vapor are taken. Most often it is EPPS or penofol with an outer foil sheath. It is only important not to confuse which side these materials need to be mounted inside the room. If you have to use a material that allows a lot of vapor to pass through, it will need to be covered with a film impervious to water vapor or a thin shell of penofol.
In case of the slightest difficulty, it is more correct to entrust the insulation of a brick wall to professionals. There are also subtleties in the insulation of the walls of a frame dwelling. For waterproofing such buildings, glassine is widely used, heaters are taken only with foil to reduce steam escape. Typical insulation solutions are polyurethane, foam and mineral wool.
Be sure to make a crate of edged boards with a moisture content of not more than 15%. The recommended section of the crate fragments is 2.5x15 cm.
Insulating blocks are inserted into the gaps between the frame racks. Sprayed heaters are underestimated by homeowners in vain. They give excellent results in frame buildings, while they can be applied without the help of a professional team. Hardened polyurethane needs to be modified (remove excess fragments and sand the surface). Due to the exclusion of joints and seams, heat loss will be minimal.
In old houses, the walls inside often have many cavities or one large cavity. As a result, the owners and tenants suffer from a freezing room, nothing can be done about it. Cavities can also occur due to errors in laying the insulation or due to its natural degradation over time. You can eliminate such troubles if you ensure the introduction of thermal insulation through holes made in the outer wall.
Since such manipulations are responsible and, in case of errors, can even lead to the destruction of the house as a whole, you should definitely contact professionals.
In regions where there is a lot of precipitation, it is unacceptable to use, including for closing voids, cavities, mineral wool and basalt insulation. You can not use expanded clay. Where showed itself better in such harsh conditions according to the operating experience of polyurethane foam. To find out if there is a cavity in the walls of a cold room that can be “blown out” with liquid or sprayed material, a standard plan will help. In the absence of a plan, with its inaccuracies or obvious errors, technological holes are made in the seams and the wall behind them is checked with wire movements. More sparing options are calling professionals with a thermal imager or self-scanning structures with this device.
But the cold also reaches the tenants of apartment buildings, in load-bearing walls which have weak seams. For the most part, the seam elements of panel structures are provided with an additional insulating layer from the outside, since it is inefficient to do this from the inside. In any case, before starting work, you should carefully study the technical regulations and building codes. If it is not possible to mount thermal insulation from the outside, its internal version must be covered with an inseparable, long-term vapor barrier.
Most often, specialists take for such purposes:
- foamed polyethylene "Vilaterm";
- mounting polyurethane foam "Macroflex" (or similar foamed polyurethanes);
- sealants that do not precipitate (for example, "Sazilast 24").
In houses operated for a long time, the sequence of work consists of several stages:
- opening the old seam;
- dismantling of the existing protection;
- rust corrections in case of urgent need;
- removal of dust and dirt;
- filling the space with mounting foam;
- attaching to the fresh layer of its heat-insulating tubes;
- adding foam to areas where it initially went unevenly;
- cutting off hardened foam;
- waterproofing.
Cross insulation is suitable for frame buildings. Heat-saving mats are applied so that the seams do not coincide with each other. Then the occurrence of cracks penetrated by the wind is excluded. Frost bridges (wooden parts) are guaranteed to overlap. The fight against them will be successful if, outside, over the thermal protection of 15 cm, add another 5 cm of insulation at problem points.
Placing 5x5 cm bars horizontally outside the frame will be the first step. The distance between each pair of bars should be 10 mm less than the width of the insulation block. The block itself is placed strictly by surprise. Immediately after installation of all insulating parts, it is supposed to close them with moisture protection. She will cover the material from the action of the wind and prevent it from falling out.
It is strictly not allowed even for corners to tamper with thermal protection and push the material inward by force. After all, the main properties of mineral wool are given by the air contained in it. Violating the integrity of the insulator, it will not be possible to keep it inside. Therefore, the house will be colder than the tenants expect. The basement floor is insulated almost according to the described scheme.
How to choose?
Now you need to find out: which insulating material is better. There is no universal answer to this question. But some points are useful to keep in mind. Conducting a full thermal calculation without special knowledge it is not possible: ready-made online calculators will practically not help or even mislead. When analyzing the properties of each coating, sequentially analyze:
- steam capacity;
- heat exchange efficiency;
- fire and chemical safety;
- load created by the insulating layer.
Stone walls are optimally combined with mineral wool and its analogues. Even weaker than leading products on the market, thermal protection is justified by superior cost and lightness, as well as ease of installation. The mineral version is soft and has an average thermal conductivity. Cotton wool with the addition of basalt crumbs shows itself more reliably. But for this, manufacturers charge extra money. Such material is especially good in areas closely adjacent to stoves and fireplaces.
Problems with cotton wool are due to its weak ability to hold its shape. Accumulating moisture, the insulation becomes heavier and sags. The way out is to increase the frequency of fasteners compared to the recommended placement of them. Warming wooden or frame buildings with cotton wool is not very practical. They are useful in cases where the walls need very little additional insulation. Styrene and substances based on it preserve their shape better and are resistant to temperature shocks.
Excellent heat capacity allows for intensive thermal protection of thin walls.
Among the foam, it is recommended to choose products under the SPB-S marking, indicating the addition of flame retardants. If they are not, it is better not to use such material at all. Penoplex is recommended for insulation of junctions to the roof. Penoplex should be used to sheathe the walls from the inside. There it will absorb quite a bit of space.
Preparatory work
If wall insulation for one reason or another is planned to be carried out from the inside, preparation consists of:
- maximum drying of the surface;
- installation of vapor barrier;
- waterproofing pad.
Before applying the foam, it is better to mount the formwork. It will keep the surface as even as possible and make the layer especially reliable. The frame is covered (wrapped) with heat-insulating material, otherwise it will turn into an entrance gate for frost. If a brick wall is finished, everything is removed from it (up to the very foundation). The approach to concrete is similar. Dirt is removed with a vacuum cleaner, visible fungal infections are easy to eliminate by treating the surface with brushes and sandpaper.
How to insulate with your own hands?
Step-by-step instructions for installing polystyrene foam insulation are simple. Such material is recommended for laying on wood, brick, fastening is carried out in the same way. The dry method is used for limited periods. The wet technique requires the introduction of the material into the wall grooves and its natural drying for 48-72 hours. Under sharply unfavorable weather conditions, these periods increase markedly.
Only perfectly flat walls are suitable for expanded polystyrene. This material is fragile. If you start to fit it to a surface with a significant relief, the plates may crack. It is desirable to eliminate all differences greater than 3 mm. Paint with low vapor permeability will have to be removed. For fastening, you need to use a special glue. A primer will definitely be required.
If it is decided to use mineral wool, it is worth stopping at the modification "Line Rock". It guarantees environmental cleanliness and excellent noise isolation. When choosing various materials it is worth clarifying:
- their total length and width;
- the possibility of cutting;
- desired connection methods.
It is necessary to wait after applying the primer for about 4 hours, even if the manufacturer promises more quick drying. When turning to hired installers for help, you should carefully control how many dowels and glue they actually use.
It is quite difficult to achieve optimal efficiency in energy saving at home, even with an ultra-modern heating system, but without resorting to insulation of external walls. It has been experimentally established that about 30% heat escapes through uninsulated walls. The best way out of this situation is one - this is the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside. Thus, with the help of special materials with a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity, the protection of walls from external influences is enhanced. Warming from the outside creates a kind of barrier between the damp and cold atmosphere of the street and the microclimate inside the home. However, the success of this process will directly depend on the right insulation.
Types of materials for wall insulation outside
Most often, houses are insulated from the outside with the following types of materials:
- has a low thermal conductivity. 90% air and 10% polymers. Easy to install and pretty cheap.
Mineral wool- a heat-insulating material that is made from metallurgical slags and silicates. Unlike glass wool, working with it is safe.
- does not require building frame structures. All work is carried out only by professionals, since working with insulation requires certain skills.
- a new formula of wall insulation, which retains heat better and more efficiently. It has a finely porous structure due to extrusion. Possesses high heat-insulating characteristics.
They also use thermal insulation, expanded polystyrene, liquid expanded clay materials, cellulose, etc. for insulation. However, these heaters are not used as often as the above. Therefore, we will focus on the consideration of the main insulation for walls.
Mineral wool
Mineral (basalt, stone) wool is a fibrous structure insulation, which is similar to the natural material basalt. This insulation is made from alloys of volcanic rocks at a very high temperature. Such wool is completely fireproof and is not affected by fire.
Benefits of mineral wool:
Thermal insulation characteristics are very high due to the porous qualities of the fiber. The material perfectly retains heat, and in summer it does not allow heat into the house.
The soundproofing qualities of basalt wool are high, thanks to the chaotic interweaving of basalt fibers, which delays sound waves.
Long service life. Once you have insulated the walls of your house with mineral wool, you can no longer worry about thermal insulation.
High tightness throughout the entire period of operation.
Mineral wool is absolutely ecological insulation walls, which does not pose a danger to either people or the environment. Installation of mineral wool on the facade and walls takes place in several stages:
Preparing the walls of the house outside.
Laying a layer of a vapor-permeable membrane over the wall.
Fastening wooden slats or profiles to walls.
Laying heat-insulating mats.
Another layer of film is stretched over the insulation.
The device of the ventilating facade of the house outside.
And on finishing stage new slopes, window sills and trim elements are being installed due to the increase in wall thickness.
The cost of such a house insulation varies from 100 to 400 rubles per m².
Styrofoam is very often used to insulate walls from the outside. After all, its thermal conductivity is lower than that of mineral wool - 0.032-0.038 W/m*K and are slightly inferior to extruded polystyrene foam.
Such a heater has many advantages:
Excellent sound insulation of walls;
Light weight, which does not increase the load on the building;
Simplicity and ease of installation.
Installation of foam on the walls of the house is as follows:
Facade preparation.
Setting the start profile.
Applying adhesive to the insulation.
Sticking foam boards on the walls of the house.
Fixing sheets with dowel fasteners.
Installation of reinforcement elements.
subsequent reinforcement.
Application of a decorative protective layer on the wall.
Giving texture to the facade.
The cost of such a heater is available - about 50 rubles per m²
This material for insulating the walls of a house from the outside is one of the varieties of plastic. It has a cellular foamy structure and 90% is made up of gaseous matter. The rest of the volume is the walls of the cells.
Sectional polyurethane foam
Thermal insulation and properties of polyurethane foam:
The thermal conductivity of the material lies in the range of 0.018 to 0.035 W / m * K, which is better than that of mineral wool.
Perfectly absorbs noise and delays sounds.
Resistant to aggressive chemicals.
It has low moisture permeability properties.
The service life of polyurethane foam reaches 30 years old. This material is absolutely environmentally friendly.
Warming the walls of the house with this thermal insulation material runs in this order:
Wall preparation.
Applying a heater.
Reinforcement to improve thermal insulation.
Finishing work.
The cost of polyurethane foam is calculated based on the size of the wall to be insulated. For example, it is necessary to make thermal insulation of the facade up to 50 sq. m. It will cost from 300 rubles per m².
Extruded foam is an innovative development that is designed to save energy.
Advantages of foam insulation:
The lowest thermal conductivity than all of the above materials.
Can withstand heavy loads.
It has long term operation - more than 40 years.
Today, more and more homeowners prefer penolex because of its high performance. How is the process of installing insulation:
