Wooden house - eco-friendly and cozy. However, in order to be comfortable in our climate, the house must be properly insulated. Insulation work includes not only giving additional thickness to the walls and ceiling, but also floor insulation measures - a lot of heated air can leak through cracks and holes in the floor.

In a house with an insulated floor, you don’t look like socks in winter - you have to pull on felt boots or uggs. And in general, living in such a room is uncomfortable, especially if there are small children who love to crawl just on the floor. The importance of underfloor heating wooden house Undoubtedly - we will consider this issue in more detail in the article.

General requirements

What characteristics should a modern safe and high-quality insulation have?

• Ease. Insulation should not weigh down the structure of the building.
• Durability and reliability. Properly selected material is sure to become a reliable support for the whole house.
• Safety. Mandatory requirement. It is important that the selected material fully complies with all sanitary standards and is not toxic.
• Easy to install. Installation of insulation should not cause difficulties.
• Low thermal conductivity. This main characteristic material, since its main functional purpose is to keep heat in the house.
• Density. The higher the density of the material, the better it will protect the home from the winter cold.

On the video - floor insulation in a wooden house:

How to insulate

What materials are best suited for floor insulation in a wooden house.

Sand or expanded clay

Protozoa natural materials that can be used for floor insulation. In addition, they are also the most inexpensive. These heaters are simply poured onto the rough flooring, thereby creating a dense layer between this flooring and the usual floor.

These materials are of natural origin, which means they are safe from an environmental point of view. In addition, they have a dry structure and absorb moisture well - this will help protect the floor from fungus and mold.

Minus - the ability to absorb moisture over time with these materials is lost, so we can not talk about the durability of these heaters.

It will also be interesting to learn about the technical characteristics and price of Isover insulation:

Sawdust

wood sawdust- one of the inexpensive and environmentally friendly materials that can be used to insulate the floor wooden house. It is elementary to simply lay wood sawdust - they are simply poured onto the subfloor, tamping a little - special construction tricks are not required here.

On the photo-expanded clay for warming a wooden house:

The downside is that sawdust is combustible and short-lived, and it will be somewhat better. But what are the proportions of the floor screed with sawdust and how to do it right, is described in great detail in this

Fiberglass

One of modern materials, but now it has been replaced by even more "advanced" mineral wool. Fiberglass is made from waste glass production, produced in the form of plates different size and thickness.

In the photo - fiberglass for insulation

The material is safe, environmentally friendly and free of toxic impurities. Fiberglass is non-flammable and fire resistant.

This is a dense material that is different low level thermal conductivity. With its help, you can perfectly insulate your home. The disadvantage of the material is its high cost compared to others. But what are the characteristics of basalt wool and where it is used in construction, information will help to understand

Mineral wool

The most common type of heaters. It is applied to all surfaces of the house - both for a ceiling, and for walls, perfectly is suitable also for a floor. Mineral wool can be produced from basalt, stone chips, slag, and other waste products from various industries.

In the photo - mineral wool for warming a wooden house

Cotton wool perfectly absorbs noise. This material is durable and reliable - its service life at the initial quality choice may take decades. Cotton wool is resistant to chemical, mechanical, and thermal effects. All these qualities make the material one of the most attractive heaters on the modern market. Quite often used.

The material reliably protects the house from the cold, as it has a low level of thermal conductivity. Also, cotton wool has a high level of water repellency, so it is suitable for homes that are in a humid climate. However, the material is afraid of direct dampness - in this case, it immediately loses its technical characteristics. Therefore, when insulating the floor with mineral wool, make sure that there are no water leaks in the basement.

But many are concerned about the question of whether they have mineral and. Mineral wool is safe, does not cause allergies. Cotton wool does not last too long - insulation with this material will cost less than with polystyrene foam or fiberglass boards.

The disadvantages include low vapor permeability. Due to the fact that cotton wool does not pass steam well, condensate can accumulate on its surface, which will freeze in winter. But it's because of . Therefore, laying mineral wool provides additional vapor barrier.

Penofol

It is one of the latest scientifically developed insulation materials. It is a rolled material, one side of which is made of foil. In addition to foil, the composition of the material also includes several layers of insulation, creating a kind of sandwich that perfectly retains heat in the room.

On the photo-penofol for a wooden floor in the house:

Penofol is good because it is very easy to install. Even a person who does not have special construction skills can roll a roll on the floor. Penofol perfectly withstands mechanical loads, shocks, endures high temperatures. The material is dense, so it can be laid in a thin layer. And here's how to do it right, is described in this article.

Penofol has excellent vapor permeability, so additional vapor barrier is not required. You can save a lot on this.

Insulation thickness

It should be noted that for each specific house this indicator is calculated individually - and the thickness of the material that is suitable for a house in the southern latitudes may differ radically from the thickness of the material for a northern cottage. Also, this calculation includes other features.

On the video, the thickness of the floor insulation in a wooden house:

What do these mysterious letters mean:

• R is the level of thermal resistance of the structure. This level for each climate zone mine. You can find it out from the application map, which is attached to the SNiP.
• A - coefficient of the level of thermal conductivity of the insulation. Each type of insulating material has its own. You can see it on the packaging of the material. Some coefficients are also indicated in SNiP.

With this formula, you can accurately determine how thick you suitable insulation, so that it is guaranteed not to freeze and achieve optimum temperature in the house.

Attention: if according to the formula it turns out that in your house the insulation layer should be thin, then experts recommend using polystyrene foam or rolled materials in this case. Such heaters can best protect the house, even if the layer is not too thick.

Manufacturers and prices

Let's find out which brands in the modern building materials market offer customers the best choice of high-quality insulation.

Rockwool

One of the most widespread and demanded brands of heaters in the Russian and world market. It produces mainly basalt mineral insulation - for ceilings, floors and walls.

In the photo - floor insulation from Rockwool

This manufacturer produces truly quality materials. Rockwool insulation is very dense, non-flammable and durable. Available in slabs. The cost depends on the brand of the product, on average - 140-230 rubles per square meter.

euroisole

This brand produces mineral wool with high technical characteristics. Cotton wool Euroizol is non-combustible, withstands significant mechanical and chemical loads. Doesn't absorb moisture well. The cost of a cubic meter of this material is on average 4000 rubles.

In the photo - floor insulation from Euroizol

Linerock

This is a heater that has excellent vapor permeability, which means that the house will not look like a hermetically puttied room - normal air exchange will take place in it. This will create a favorable microclimate in the room.

In the photo, floor insulation from Lineroc

Linerock is available in slabs, suitable for walls and floors. The cost is 140-170 rubles per sq. m.

Isover

One of the most popular heaters on the Russian market. It is a high-quality glass wool with high performance characteristics. Izover is a very strong and durable material with a low degree of shrinkage. The cost is approximately 150 rubles per square meter.

In the photo, floor insulation from Izover

These are just a few of the variety of manufacturers, brands and brands on the market of modern building materials. On sale you can also find high-quality heaters of such brands as Ragos, TechnoNIKOL, Penoplex, Knauf and others. The choice depends on the characteristics of your climate and specifications building.

We reviewed the most popular and optimal floor insulation in a wooden house. When choosing the right option for yourself, be sure to consider all its pros and cons - and then your home will be warm, safe and comfortable.

Do-it-yourself floor insulation in a private house is quite an affordable task, and it can be solved without involving professional builders. The main thing is to decide on the choice of thermal insulation material and the technology for carrying out insulation work. This will largely depend on the design of the floor.

It is necessary to insulate the floor in any case, treating this task with maximum responsibility. Without this, the house will never be created comfortable conditions living, even if you spend huge amounts of money on the operation of the most advanced heating system and other climate control equipment. Thermal insulation bet is money down the drain!

The publication will consider the materials used for thermal insulation, various technologies insulation, depending on the design of the floors.

Materials for floor insulation in a private house

The first thing to do is to decide on the choice of thermal insulation material that is suitable for the floor of a particular design. Therefore, when considering the characteristics of heaters, it will immediately be noted which floor they are suitable for, and an overview of the technology for their application will be given.

So, today, mineral wool (glass and basalt), polystyrene foam is most often used for thermal insulation of floors. various types and expanded clay. It should be noted that there are other materials for insulation, for example, ecowool or polyurethane foam. However, their use will require special equipment and experience with it. That is, it is difficult to bring them under the category of "do it yourself".

There are other, let's say - more "exotic" heaters, for example, foam glass plates or cork. But they have not yet received much distribution, apparently due to inaccessibility or excessively high prices. Our article is designed for the average home owner who wants to do the insulation on their own.

Synthetic foam insulation

This group includes the most commonly used thermal insulation materials today - these are ordinary white foam, extruded polystyrene foam and polyethylene foam (). These heaters gained their popularity due to their low thermal conductivity and quite affordable cost. In addition, foam materials have a number of other advantages, but they also have very significant disadvantages.

Extruded polystyrene foam

This material is made from the same raw materials as the familiar white foam, but using a completely different technology. Therefore, it has improved characteristics.

It is better not to consider white foam plastic as a floor insulation at all, and it is also better not to produce it. To be honest, it has no place at all in the system of internal insulation of a residential building - there are too many shortcomings, including those that are extremely dangerous for humans. In extruded material, these "minuses" are still significantly reduced. Therefore, it is better to perform - this is what extruded polystyrene foam is called.

The disadvantages of this material are the following features:

• The flammability of the insulation, it belongs to the flammability group G2÷G4.
• Low heat resistance - at elevated temperatures, the material begins to "float"
• Low vapor permeability, that is, the material is not breathable. Again, this is sometimes a clear advantage.
• Low tensile and compressive strength of thin insulation.

As a substrate, ordinary foamed polyethylene up to 3 mm thick is used. And the foil version can be laid on top of other rigid insulation, or also as a reflective substrate. In addition, foil material is usually laid under the "warm floor" system, moreover, any of its possible varieties - electric cable or film infrared, water, or other floor covering.

Sheets of foamed polyethylene are stacked end-to-end and sealed with foil tape. The coating must be airtight, since very often it is the layer of foiled polyethylene foam that is considered as the necessary vapor barrier.

So, the material is very good, but it is designed only for sharing with other heaters. Relying on the fact that only its use can create a full-fledged effective thermal insulation of the floor of the first floor of a private house is simply naive.

Mineral wool

On sale you can meet three types of mineral wool - stone (basalt), glass and slag. Slag wool is practically not used in housing construction, as it does not have outstanding characteristics, and often does not meet the requirements of sanitary standards. Therefore, the features of this type of insulation will not be considered.

Basalt and glass wool also differ in their characteristics, but both of these types are widely used in insulating structures. It is they who will be considered in more detail.

glass wool

Glass wool is made from environmentally friendly raw materials - sand, cullet, borax, soda and limestone. From the melt of materials, fibers are formed that are rather fragile and brittle, but when they are pressed into mats using binders, a sufficiently stable air-saturated structure is obtained, which has high insulating abilities.

Glass wool can have different thicknesses, have different densities, be produced in regular and foiled form. When using the second option for floor insulation, mats or slabs are laid with foil up, that is, towards the room. Due to this, the heat from the room, falling on the insulation, is reflected back.

Glass wool has many advantages. These include high thermal insulation capabilities, fairly high heat resistance, resistance to fire and chemistry, and the affordable cost of the material.

Disadvantages - rather high fragility of the fibers. This creates difficulties in work - the material is caustic, capable of causing severe irritation of the skin, respiratory organs and mucous membranes. In addition, such brittleness is a prerequisite for the gradual shrinkage of the material during operation, especially if there are vibration loads. And this leads to a decrease in thermal insulation characteristics.

In addition, not everything is safe with glass wool and with exposure to water - it can get wet and waste its insulating qualities. Measures are required to prevent its saturation with moisture.

Stone (basalt) wool

Stone wool has the most optimal characteristics of all types of insulation in this class. This heat-insulating material is made from a melt of basalt rocks, from which thin fibers are drawn, which are much stronger and more elastic than glass.

High-quality basalt insulation - the most resistant to moisture. Such stability is achieved by special processing, and sometimes it reaches almost hydrophobicity - water does not penetrate into the structure of the material at all.

Basalt wool from leading manufacturers is highly resistant to open fire and can withstand very high temperatures. Therefore, such material is classified as NG - non-combustible heaters. A very important quality for any home!

Manufacturers are trying to minimize the possible emission of formaldehyde. Thus, basalt heaters labeled "ECO" or "Eurostandard" are environmentally friendly - not phenol-formaldehyde, but safe ones are used as a binder. acrylic resins. It is clear that the price of such products is much higher, but they are really worth it.

A significant drawback of any mineral wool is that mice like to arrange their nests and passages in them. Moreover, for some reason, rodents are not at all afraid of the causticity of the fibers - they feel great in warmth and dryness. And if the characteristics indicate that the material does not attract rodents, this should be treated with a fair amount of skepticism.

It is possible to protect the heat-insulating layer, for example, by closing its sections accessible to rodents with a metal mesh with cells 2 ÷ 3 mm in size - it will not succumb to the teeth of mice.

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Mineral wool is used in different schemes floor insulation. Materials of low and medium density are suitable for laying between beams or joists. High-density slabs can be used for insulation on the ground or floor slab, followed by pouring a reinforced screed.

You might be interested in information on how to fit

Expanded clay and its use for insulation

Expanded clay is one of the most practical, reliable and durable, as well as environmentally friendly heaters. This material is produced from refractory purified clay using the technology of its special firing.

This material has a lot of advantages:

• Expanded clay does not contain toxic components, as it is a natural material.
• Good thermal insulation performance. At the same time, these qualities do not decrease throughout the entire operational period.
• Low moisture absorption. Expanded clay does not swell and does not deform.
• Excellent soundproofing ability. Moreover, the smaller the fraction of the material, the higher the sound insulation.
• High vapor permeability.
• Fire safety. Expanded clay mass not only does not ignite, but also prevents the spread of fire.
• High frost resistance, resistance to temperature extremes.
• Resistance to biological influences. Fungus or mold does not form on expanded clay, since it does not contain a nutrient medium for such microflora of organisms. Expanded clay is not tolerated by rodents - they only do not live in it, but they cannot make passages in it either.
• Simplicity and variety of use cases.

Expanded clay also has disadvantages, but they are much less than advantages. And the main thing is that the coefficient of thermal conductivity is still almost three times higher than that of expanded polystyrene or mineral wool. That is, a layer of insulation will require a more significant

Expanded clay is used in various floor insulation schemes.

• The first option is the simplest of all - this is backfilling of expanded clay on the ground in the underground of a wooden floor. Before backfilling, a waterproofing material is laid on the soil base, which is understood and fixed on the walls to a height higher than the thickness of the backfill by 50÷100 mm.
• Another option is to create bulk layers of the required thickness along the soil, followed by pouring a reinforced concrete screed.
• Another way to insulate with expanded clay is to fill it between lags or floor beams on the subfloor:

If fine-grained expanded clay is used for backfilling, then the subfloor must be prepared. The gaps between the boards, if any, can be sealed with a clay-lime mass, which is also a natural material. It will securely hold the backfill between the lags on the subfloor;

An alternative option is flooring on the subfloor and parchment logs. His canvases are overlapped by about 100 mm. Glassine is also fixed on wooden structural elements with staples driven in with a stapler.

The next step between the lags is filled with expanded clay mixture and evenly distributed throughout the space. A layer of vapor barrier film is sometimes laid on top of expanded clay.

And, finally, sheets of plywood or floorboards are laid and fixed on the logs.

• Another option for using expanded clay is mixing it with a liquid cement-sand mortar. Concrete binds expanded clay granules together, which increases the strength of such a base.

Such material becomes especially relevant when insulating floors on the ground - a leveling screed will be poured from above. True, they also use it with floors on logs, filling the entire space under the future flooring with mortar.

Since the insulating qualities of expanded clay still leave much to be desired, which requires very significant layers of backfill, it is often used in combination with other thermal insulation materials - expanded polystyrene or mineral wool. A calculation is made in advance which combination of material layers will provide the expected thermal insulation.

How to calculate the thickness of floor insulation on the ground?

The main options for insulating the floor of the first floor of a private house

Now more about how the floor insulation is carried out in a private house

Ground floor insulation

This approach is often practiced if the house is being built on a strip foundation. Expanded clay (alone or in combination with other material), rigid insulation boards (extruded polystyrene foam) or mineral wool blocks of increased charge, specially designed for such purposes, can act as a heater (this is specified in the passport characteristics of the mineral wool). One thing that is common to any heaters in this scheme is that they are closed from above with a reinforced screed.

It might look something like this:

The soil (pos. 1) is carefully compacted, while its surface is leveled to the maximum.

From above, sand filling is made (pos. 2), in layers, also with careful tamping. The thickness of the backfill is usually at least 100 mm (in compacted form).

Next, an optional but highly recommended layer of lined geotextile is shown (item 3). It will be a big plus for the stability of the entire “pie” being created, it will serve to separate the sand and gravel (crushed stone) layer, which will improve the drainage capabilities of this design.

Above, also with a rammer, a layer of crushed stone or coarse gravel (pos. 4) is filled up, on which the so-called “concrete preparation” (pos. 5) is performed. This is a poured layer of lean concrete (marked strength M50 is enough). On this basis, it is much easier to carry out further work that will directly swing the insulation.

By concrete preparation a layer of waterproofing is laid (pos. 6) - the insulation must be protected from moisture from the ground. Rolled can be used for these purposes. bituminous waterproofing- it fits perfectly on enough solid foundation concrete preparation.

Then stacked thermal insulation material desired thickness (pos. 7). About the calculation of the thickness is described separately - the link has already been given above. There they understand possible combinations insulation materials, so that the thermal insulation becomes complete.

Further, the insulation is covered with another layer of vapor-permeable waterproofing material (pos. 8), which can be a polyethylene film, but very dense, at least 200 microns thick. Cloths are necessarily laid with an overlap of 150 ÷ ​​200 mm and sealed along the seam lines with moisture-resistant adhesive tape. Waterproofing should go on the walls to a height above the surface of the future floor. The purpose of this layer is to prevent water from flowing out of concrete mortar when pouring the screed, that is, creating optimal conditions for hardening and maturation of concrete.

A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the waterproofing, the cross-section of the rods and the size of the cells of which depend on the expected degree of load on the floors. But these are general construction issues that only indirectly relate to the problems of insulation under consideration. The mesh must be lifted from the waterproofing layer so that it is approximately in the middle of the thickness of the screed.

After hardening, maturing and gaining brand strength, the resulting screed will serve as a universal base for any floor finish.

You may be interested in information about what is

Insulated floor over slab

Such a scheme in a private house is rarely used, but, nevertheless, it should be mentioned. Moreover, it is very similar to the previous one, but much simpler. If only because there is already a rigid, reliable foundation that does not require additional modifications.

What are the features here?

The base is already ready - this is a floor slab (pos. 1) above the cold underground, as a rule - hollow. It must be necessarily primed with a deep penetration compound, and it will not be out of place to provide a waterproofing layer on it (pos. 2). Coating insulation or even a dense polyethylene film is quite enough here.

The next layer is again waterproofing (pos. 4), which will protect the insulation from moisture penetration from above and provide the optimal water-cement ratio when the screed solidifies.

Well, above is a reinforced screed (pos. 5), in which pipes or a “warm floor” heating cable can also be located. And crowns the whole structure chosen top coat floor (pos. 6).

Floor insulation along logs or floor beams

But this option occurs, perhaps, more often than all others. And above all, because such a scheme turns out to be practically the only possible one if the house rests on a pile or column foundation. But even for strip foundation with a high base, it is quite applicable. "Heavy" materials such as cement, sand, gravel are not used here - wood or materials based on it become the main one. Well, plus, of course, the heater itself.

The schematic diagram can be represented as follows:

On the floor beams or logs (pos. 1), cranial bars (pos. 2) are stuffed or support boards. The lights will serve as the basis for the installation of the subfloor (pos. 3). For this flooring, both low-grade boards and sheet materials such as plywood or OSB can be used. The flooring can be solid, but more often the boards are mounted with a vacuum - both for reasons of economy and for better ventilation of the insulation.

Waterproofing is laid on the subfloor - wind protection (pos. 4). Important - this layer should not prevent the free exit of water vapor, so that moisture does not linger in the insulation. Sometimes, with frequent arrangement of boards or when rigid polystyrene foam boards are used as thermal insulation, this layer is not laid at all - there is no need to fear direct water from below, and the wind effect with a well-equipped base is unlikely to be so great that it is able to cause damage insulation.

Even, a layer of thermal insulation of the required thickness is laid (pos. 5). The illustration shows laying in one layer, but usually this is not enough - at least two are required. But it's for the best - the slabs or mats of the upper layer overlap the joints of the lower one, and there are practically no cold bridges left.

Next - a prerequisite: a layer of reliable vapor barrier (pos. 6). The humidity level indoors during the cold season is always much higher than outdoors. And so that those looking for any loophole to get out of the water vapor do not penetrate into the insulation, it is required to put a reliable hermetic (without exaggeration) barrier.

And finally, a plank or plywood (OSB) floor covering is laid on top (pos. 7). In the diagram, again, a simplification is allowed, but in reality it is recommended to leave a ventilation gap of about 20 ÷ 30 mm between the vapor barrier membrane and the flooring. This is easy to do by installing additional rails of the counter-lattice along the lags - they will additionally press the membrane and provide the necessary clearance.

It is clear that the thickness of the insulation with such a scheme must be calculated in advance, since in this case it also directly affects the choice of the section of lumber for beams and logs. You will have to carry out a not particularly complicated thermal calculation.

How to calculate the thickness of the wooden floor insulation on the logs?

You will be introduced to the algorithm for such calculations by a special article of the portal -. It also contains a handy calculator.

One more nuance. To protect the insulation from penetration of mice into it, you can also use a metal mesh. It is mounted directly on the subfloor boards under the waterproofing layer. The edges of the grid are raised to the wall above the thickness of the insulation by 100 ÷ 150 mm. After laying the insulation, the mesh is folded onto its surface. After that, the insulation is completely closed from above with the same mesh - it is shot to the lags with brackets. Perhaps, such measures will seem superfluous to someone, but it really helps if you do not leave loopholes for mice.

Insulation of a wooden floor on logs

This section of the article provides step-by-step illustrated instructions for insulating floors with mineral wool.

The most important thing in warming a wooden floor, raised above the ground by 300 - 500 mm, is the choice optimal material and high-quality, according to all the rules, its styling

The first thing to check when deciding to insulate such a floor is the presence of ventilation in the underground space. If there are no air vents in the basement of the foundation, then they must be equipped. The lack of ventilation with such floor insulation will lead to the appearance of dampness in the underground space, to rotting wooden elements structures, to their defeat by the fungus.

You might be interested in information on how to choose

The total area of ​​all ducts must be at least 1/400 of the floor area of ​​the first floor, but at the same time - at least 0.85 m². The area of ​​one vent is usually around 0.05 m². that is, it is easy to calculate the required number and then consider their uniform placement on the base. In this case, the extreme air ducts should be located no further than 0.9 m from the corners of the foundation. one more thing important condition- the symmetry of their placement, that is, the air on one wall must correspond to a similar one on the opposite. Thus, their number usually turns out to be even.

However, we again delved into general construction issues - let's return to floor insulation.

So, the insulation of an old wooden floor (if we are not talking about installing a new one during construction) can be done in several ways:

• Using an old plank floor as a subfloor. This option is possible if the boards are in good condition, that is, they do not have signs of decay and are not moistened from the inside. In addition, it must be taken into account that the floors will rise by about 250 mm. If the ceilings in the room are high enough, then the insulation on the old coating, without dismantling it, seems possible. But, to be honest, they resort to this path - infrequently.
• The second option involves the dismantling of the boardwalk and laying insulation under it. In this case, the dismantled floor boards, if they are in a satisfactory condition, can then be returned to their place. If the boards are supposed to be reused, then when dismantling, it is recommended to number them.

Naturally, if a new floor is being built, then they start from scratch, that is, with the installation of a subfloor - and then in order.

Below we will consider the option of insulation, in which the old floor is dismantled. Moreover, if the insulation will be carried out in an old house, the revision underground space, as well as the reliability of floor beams - will never be superfluous.

To work, you will need the following materials:

• Warming material. In this case, it is mineral wool. As practice shows, and calculations confirm, in private houses in most regions of Russia it is recommended to lay this insulation with a thickness of at least 150 or even 200 mm. this usually involves a minimum of two-layer installation.
• Boards or plywood for subfloor installation. Boards 10 mm thick and 150 mm wide will be enough.
• Beam for counter-rails, for example, 30 × 50 mm. The larger size should correspond to the thickness of the lag or floor beam.
• Waterproof vapor permeable membrane.
• Vapor barrier material.
• Self-tapping screws and staples for a stapler.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	So, having dismantled the boardwalk, you can see the floor beams and evaluate the possibilities of further work. If the floor beams are in good condition, then the first thing to do is to cover them with an antiseptic solution on all sides and allow the coating to dry well.
	Further, you can choose one of the two options - to fix the cranial bars on the supporting beams with self-tapping screws, on which the subfloor boards will be laid, or to fix the boards from the bottom of the floor beams. Each of the options has its drawbacks. When fixing the cranial elements, the space for installing the insulation will decrease.
	Fixing the boards from the bottom of the floor beams, in principle, has no drawbacks, except for the laboriousness of the work. If the height from the ground to the beams is small, then the installation will have to be done while lying on your back. The subfloor is only needed for support insulation material, therefore, it is not necessary to make it solid or lay boards too often. The distance between them can even be 200÷250 mm. And the boards can be used even unedged. But they need antiseptic treatment to no lesser extent.
	Another option for arranging the subfloor is to fix the transverse boards to the beams with a pitch of 700 ÷ 800 mm, and then lay a longitudinal plank covering on them. And between longitudinal boards you can also leave gaps of 10 ÷ 15 mm. Gaps are necessary for proper ventilation of the insulation.
	In some cases, sheets of OSB plywood 10 mm thick are used for the subfloor. However, a gap must be left between the sheets every 500 mm for ventilation. Therefore, it will be necessary to prepare pieces of plywood with a length of 500 ÷ 600 mm and a width equal to the distance between the centers of adjacent floor beams (logs). As a rule, it is 600 mm - according to the traditional size of mineral wool insulation.
	The next step is to lay a vapor-permeable waterproofing-wind protection on the subfloor. It is laid to protect the mineral wool from water ingress (which is extremely unlikely in such conditions), as well as from the wind that will penetrate the underground through the ventilation ducts. Membrane sheets must wrap around floor beams. They overlap each other by 100÷150 mm. It is not necessary to glue these overlaps with adhesive tape, tightness is not required here.
	It is necessary to focus on fixing the membrane on the walls. The material should be on them above the thickness of the insulation by 50 ÷ 70 mm. On wooden walls the membrane is fixed with staples, and on surfaces made of other material - with double-sided construction tape. Insulation is still recommended to be isolated from possible contact with the walls.
	Next, the insulation material is laid. Here it is important to observe a few nuances. The plates are most often laid in two layers, and at the same time the top one should overlap the joints of the bottom insulation. The standard width of the insulation boards is 600 mm, and it must be laid at odds with the floor beams, so the optimal width between the beams in the light is approximately 550 ÷ 570 mm (just along the axes - 600 mm, and due to the thickness of the beam, the clearance decreases somewhat) . However, it is not always possible to comply with such a step, so the plates often have to be “understaffed” with additional fragments. Their joints should also be covered with whole slabs of the top layer.
	A vapor barrier material is laid on top of the insulation and fixed with brackets on the floor beams. This layer is necessary to protect the insulation from the penetration of various fumes into it from the side of the premises. The canvases are also overlapped by 100 ÷ 150 mm (on membranes it is often even applied with a dotted line minimum width stripes of such an overlap). But here the sealing requirements are strict: the canvases are necessarily glued together along the overlap line with moisture-resistant adhesive tape.
	Then, if it is planned to create a ventilation gap between the plank flooring and the vapor barrier (and this is highly recommended), then slats 25 ÷ 30 mm thick are fixed to the ends of the beams on top of the vapor barrier. Some craftsmen refuse this design element and consider it optional. But it is still better not to neglect such ventilation - condensate will not accumulate on the vapor barrier membrane.

The insulation is finished - and on top you can mount a plank floor or flooring made of plywood or OSB. But these are questions that are beyond the scope of our consideration.

* * * * * * * *

Now, having at hand several options for floor insulation schemes with various materials, it will be possible to choose the most suitable way for a particular case. By adhering to the recommendations received and strictly following the technology, it is quite possible to independently produce thermal insulation of floors in own house. At the same time, not only saving a decent amount to the family budget, but also gaining confidence that the work was done in good faith.

In conclusion, we offer you to watch an interesting video. In it, a completely amateur master produces self-insulation floors of your house under construction. To be honest, there is a lot to learn.

Today, when arranging a private house, the floor is increasingly made of wood. This is due to the fact that wood has excellent thermal insulation properties. But at the same time, he is still not able to resist the cold air that tends to the house from under the ground. Thus, living in such a house is uncomfortable, and it also leads to a decrease in its service life due to the accumulation of condensate in the underground. To solve all these problems, it is necessary to perform floor insulation in a private house.

Applicable materials

Expanded clay and sawdust

These materials are today considered the most affordable in terms of cost and ease of installation. The process of insulation is carried out by filling the material between pre-laid logs. It is sawdust that is most often used for floor insulation in a private house, as it is an environmentally friendly material. Although it has its drawbacks - it is exposure to rodents.

Sawdust for wood floor insulation

Mineral wool

This heat insulator is also in high demand, but compared to sawdust, it contains chemical compounds. So for those who care about the environmental factor, you need to look at another option. If thermal insulation works will occur in a room with a high level of humidity, then before laying the mineral wool, you will have to take care of installing the waterproofing layer. This is extremely important, because when water penetrates the mineral wool, it will lose its heat-insulating qualities.

Mineral wool for insulation

The advantages of mineral wool include:

• resistance to fire;
• resistance to biological and chemical influences;
• excellent heat and sound insulating qualities.

Mineral wool is produced in the format of plates, while one surface is harder than the other. It is marked with a blue stripe. When insulating, it is important to take this into account and lay the heat insulator with the hardest side up. The layer thickness is 200 mm.

Izolon

Mineral fibers are also used in the manufacture of this material. But compared to the previous insulation, it is accompanied by a higher hydrophobic ability and low heat conductivity. Isolon is desirable to use for reliable thermal insulation of old wooden floors.

Izolon for insulation

Rockwool insulation remains one of the most popular types of isolon. It is characterized by similar properties with isolon, but only in the composition there is basalt wool, thanks to which a high noise insulation coefficient is achieved. The thickness of the mounted layer is 2-10 mm. But how the floor is insulated in a wooden house from below with isolon, you can read

Styrofoam

This material is most commonly referred to as styrofoam. It belongs to the category of budget, and also creates a reliable barrier against moisture, is a durable material. It has excellent thermal insulation performance, as well as a long service life.

Styrofoam for floor

It is allowed to use it for thermal insulation of various rooms, since it does not cause any harm to the human body. It is easy to work with and retains its original shape very well. In addition, the foam is not affected by rodents. The thickness of the layer to be laid must be at least 20 mm. It will also be useful to learn how to insulate a concrete floor with polystyrene foam, and what to pay attention to.

Penofol

Penofol is a material that is presented in the form of foamed, foil polyethylene. It has a closed cell structure. In the assortment of construction stores penofol there are the following types:

Plywood

Currently, plywood can be produced in several grades, including:

All of them differ from each other according to such a criterion as the level of resistance to moisture. But this level is due to such indicators:

• type of glue used;
• type of coating applied to upper layer each sheet.

Plywood of the FSF brand has the highest level of resistance to moisture. But it is used most often in rooms with a high level of humidity, unheated.

How to insulate from below

To create a reliable barrier against heat loss, you need to insulate the floor from below, adhering to the following plan:

Take action from above

To insulate the floor from above, a high-quality, warm and thick underlay based on polypropylene or cork is required. On top of this material, flooring is laid.

To get high-quality floor insulation in a private house, you need to take care of a new additional level. So screw the logs in the floor, which were previously treated with an antiseptic. Mount the selected heat insulator between the lags. As a rule, mineral wool is used. Then close the floor with plywood or chipboard, and on top of them you can install any floor covering.

On the video insulation of a wooden floor from above:

The only disadvantage of such coverage is the cost of money, time and effort. In addition, the height of the room will decrease, as the floor will become higher. And this is a direct way to raising thresholds and doors.

Activities not to rot

If your task is to insulate the floor in order to prevent its decay, then it is important to choose the right material. For these purposes, a heat insulator with an increased level of moisture resistance is used.

Heat insulator with a high level of moisture resistance

Insulation materials such as expanded clay and expanded polystyrene remain the highest quality in this regard. The first has a ceramic shell that does not absorb moisture and low heat conductivity. Styrofoam has similar qualities.

Features of warming an old house

Most often, expanded clay is used as a floor insulation in a private house, as it has excellent moisture resistance and thermal insulation. To carry out thermal insulation work in an old house, you must follow these instructions:

1. Dismantle the old flooring and fasteners.
2. Fill, level and compact the sand cushion. The layer thickness will be from 100 mm.
3. Lay a layer of waterproofing using dense polyethylene.
4. Bring the level to the floor and to the gypsum solution. Arrange guide beacons. When the mixture becomes solid, and the level is finally set, you can proceed to laying the heat insulator. The layer thickness must be above 100 mm.
5. Treat the waterproofing with a mixture of cement and water. Thanks to this, all subsequent work will be easier.
6. Floor reinforcement is necessary work, thanks to which it is possible to minimize deformations leading to the destruction of the screed.
7. Filling is done carefully and accurately, otherwise you will have to deal with leveling the floor.
8. The filled floor will completely harden in 28 days. But it will be possible to walk on the surface in 7 days.

In this video you will be told how to make warm wooden floors in a private house:

Lag work

This option of insulation is distinguished by its simplicity, but at the same time high efficiency, since it is possible to significantly reduce the loss of thermal energy.

The procedure is as follows:

1. Perform the installation of wooden logs.
2. Attach the shields to the boards, on which the heat insulator will be laid later. They need to be stitched underneath.
3. Between the lags, insulation, gyro- and vapor barriers are being laid.
4. In conclusion, the floorboards are installed and final finishing floor covering.

You may also be interested in learning about how things happen at home and what kind of insulation should be used.

Features of insulation of houses on a pile foundation

Before starting thermal insulation work, it is necessary to carefully prepare the surface, eliminating all debris. Now it is fashionable to move on to mounting the log on the base on two sides. Go with an antiseptic. At the same time, make sure that batten necessarily touched all logs without exception. But the fasteners of the lag themselves should be carried out on both sides in the corner for each.

Upon completion of these works, you can proceed to the arrangement of the subfloor layer. It serves to ensure that between the lags it was possible to lay the heat insulator. To obtain a rough coating, it is worth using edged board section 100x25 cm.

First you need to screw the bars 5x5 cm from below and across the lag. The space is divided into several zones. Attach the boards to the windproof membrane. This will create a reliable protection against moisture, which is formed due to a sharp temperature drop. You can try to apply

On video insulation floor of the house on a pile foundation:

Membrane fasteners should be carried out in increments of 20-25 cm between the lags. However, you need to visit them. Now you can proceed to the direct installation of the insulation itself. You need to do this in 3 layers. At the end, cover everything with a membrane and lay the finishing floor.

Bathroom wood flooring work

During construction modern baths make the foundation. This suggests that there is a need for arranging a rough and finishing floor. The finishing floor installation process is performed with a slope towards the drain. Its laying takes place on logs with a gap at the walls of 3 cm.

Be sure to lay a layer of vapor barrier membrane. The waterproofing layer must be on the entire surface of the subfloor. Laying is carried out with an overlap, and fastening is done with adhesive tape.

After that, you can lay the heater. It is best to use polystyrene foam. It does not absorb moisture, which is important for a room with a high level of moisture. The heat insulator plates are mounted between the lags so that there is a 2 cm ventilation gap on top. It is also worth reading the information on how to use and which one to use for the walls of the house outside under the siding.

On the video floor insulation in the bath:

The next layer involves the laying of a waterproofing layer, which creates a barrier to the penetration of water onto the insulation. The finishing floor is laid from planed tongue-and-groove boards, and then they are treated with water-repellent and antiseptic impregnation.

Today, in order to reduce heat loss, people are increasingly engaged in floor insulation. It is possible to perform all the work not necessarily during the arrangement of the building, but even after. When choosing the right thermal insulation material, it is necessary to take into account climatic conditions, operating conditions and humidity levels.

Floor insulation in a wooden house: 15 better ways

The coldest surface of the house, of course, is the floor. This usually applies to the first least protected floor of the building, as well as separate wooden houses. Why is the floor in a lower-rise apartment always cold? This is due to the fact that the air rushes down. Drafts are blowing from under the floor below. To minimize heat loss, the floor in the house has to be insulated.

This procedure is especially necessary in houses with classic eco-friendly wooden flooring. Even if you lay wood elements (boards) tightly to each other, they will dry out over time. From the crevices will certainly begin to see through. This will naturally lead to heat loss.

Also read articles:

The following sequence of work awaits you.

• Installing a log made of wood (it is important to do this correctly).
• Fixing boards and wooden shields(on lags). Such a coating will serve as a necessary auxiliary base. It will need to lay a heater.
• Between the lags - laying insulation. Pack material tightly. Or sealant, or quality mounting foam fill the gaps formed between the existing lags and the stacked sheets.
• Lay the vapor barrier material on the insulation. Attach the vapor barrier to the joists. At the same time, it is better to seal the gaps and joints with metallized tape.
• Laying wooden floor cladding with finishing - the final stage.

Before designing the thermal insulation layer, decide on the thickness of the selected material. The latter will depend on climatic conditions, on the type of insulation.

For each case, thermal insulation is selected individually.

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house: the choice of material

The quality of thermal insulation of the flooring directly depends on the right choice of material. Today, the Russian construction market has a rich selection of heat insulators.

Penoplex, stone and mineral wool, expanded polystyrene and often used fiberglass are popular types of thermal insulation. Each of them has its pros and cons. Which one is better?

1. Fiberglass, stone and mineral wool - these materials have good thermal protection properties and excellent sound absorption. If you want to lay insulation in one layer, then use roll or mats. The latter are considered more elastic and durable material. the site advises laying insulation elements between the lags or under the rough flooring. Both options are acceptable.
2. Penoplex and expanded polystyrene can also be used. At the same time, they will please with a democratic price, high thermal insulation of the structure and durability. From these materials, thermal insulation is carried out by spraying. This is an efficient, fairly fast and economical method. This method is most often used in new homes.

Expanded polystyrene advantage:

• minimal water absorption, and, accordingly, resistance to water;
• excellent thermal insulation qualities;
• form stability;
• high strength material;
• volume stability;
• long service life;
• biological resistance;
• immunity to various microorganisms;
• the material is environmentally friendly.

Benefits of mineral wool:

• the material is low in density;
• the level of thermal conductivity is negligible;
• long service life;
• democratic price;
• incombustibility;
• environmentally friendly material;
• high level of water repellency;
• high chemical resistance.

All of the above materials meet environmental requirements:

• The better the polystyrene foam, the more environmentally friendly it is. It must be dried well so that no volatile compounds remain in the material. Otherwise, at elevated temperatures, they can poison a person. Styrene can cause toxic hepatitis, rare leukemia, etc.
• You can fit into the tight framework of ecology using fiberglass or mineral wool, provided that these materials use harmless resins. Phenol-formaldehyde resins, which are undesirable, can be identified by brown or yellow tint material.

Durability of thermal insulation

Various qualities have to be taken into account when choosing a particular material. For example, with a certain load on the heat-protective layer, it will no longer be able to restore its original volume - some of the fibers will simply break. That is why such raw materials do not adhere tightly to the logs and floor beams. As a result, cold bridges are inevitably created on structures. Condensation can also appear where the thermal insulation does not fit snugly.

In order not to miscalculate with a choice and buy a heater good quality, press on a small piece of it (for example, step on it). If after such a test it takes its former shape, then it suits you. If it remains crumpled and flat, then it is best to refuse such a product.

Is it possible to improve thermal insulation qualities? When warming, you can not do with mats alone. Often used insulated finishes: heat-insulating linoleums, two-layer carpets .. Other materials can also not be neglected. The first floor can be made warmer by insulating the foundation. Basements You need to carefully check and close all the cracks.

We warm the wooden floor along the logs

Most often, floor insulation in a wooden house is realized through the use of logs. It is quite simple to implement and yet very effective. In any case, you can eliminate significant heat losses. This method is especially relevant for the basement and first floor - where the floors are closest to the ground.

The technology goes like this:

• Install on the base of the T-shaped log. Observe the step in meters.
• Then fix the boards or shields on which to lay the insulation in the future. They must be fixed on a special type of cranial bars or hemmed from below.
• Then lay the insulation on the flooring between the joists.
• Next, you have to take care of the vapor and waterproofing. True, the need for this procedure arises only in individual cases. It all depends on the type of insulation. So, this procedure will be relevant if you use ecowool or mineral wool. Lay vapor barrier sheets overlapping fifteen centimeters. On the wall, its edges should “climb” about ten centimeters. For waterproofing, you can use as a simple polyethylene film and special materials.
• The final stage is installation and finishing flooring.

Important! You can also make thermal insulation of the floor along the logs, which are laid on even brick columns. Insulation plates must be laid between these posts (polystyrene, fiberglass, mineral wool). The insulation layer must be covered with a layer of vapor barrier on top.

The constant advantage of thermal insulation along the lags is the ease of work. At the same time, the method is very effective. The insulation does not experience mechanical load, therefore, you can use any of thermal insulation materials.

What are the materials for floor insulation

Of course, choosing a heater is not easy. You can make the floor warmer different ways using different materials:

• isolon;
• polyurethane foam;
• polystyrene;
• penofol;
• mineral, glass, stone, slag wool;
• ecowool.

Perfect for this purpose sawdust, polyfoam, expanded clay. The choice depends on the characteristics of the material, personal preferences and financial capabilities.

We warm the draft floor

The whole procedure is carried out according to the logs.

• Fasten to the sides of the fixed log bars.
• Fix the boards on them with screws or nails. The latter in length should correspond to the distance between the lags.
• When an integral surface is formed, lay a vapor barrier on top: plastic film, glassine or some other material.
• Next, lay the insulation between the lags.
• Check that there are no gaps.
• Next - another layer of vapor barrier. The draft floor is ready.

We warm the floor with sawdust

Sawdust is one of the commonplace types of insulation. Its main advantage is low cost and ease of filling. Insulation can penetrate even the most inaccessible places. It is also important to mention that this material is environmentally friendly. In the role of a heater, sawdust can be used not only in its pure form, but also mixed with building materials.

Pellets and sawdust pellets

This is a granular insulation made from a mixture of sawdust, glue based on carboxymethyl cellulose and a flame retardant antiseptic. Thanks to such components, the insulation is not only an excellent heat insulator, but also antiseptic, flame retardant.

sawdust concrete

It can be obtained by mixing sawdust (mainly with coniferous) with cement, sand and water. It is similar to slag concrete in terms of thermal conductivity. This is an environmentally friendly material that requires good waterproofing (because it contains sawdust).

Arbolit

Such a material can be obtained by mixing cement with the required chemical components and organic aggregates (wood chips). Usually plates are made from this material. They have good heat and sound insulation properties. This insulation is non-flammable, easy to process, durable.

Main disadvantage- "not indifferent" to moisture.

Of all the above materials, sawdust most often acts as a heater (without adding impurities).

We warm the floor with mineral wool

This is a very common, popular type of insulation. It can be slag, stone, glass. Absolute incombustibility is one of the main advantages. The advantages also include: chemical and biological resistance, thermal and noise protection properties.

It is necessary to mention the disadvantages: low vapor permeability and mechanical strength.

The material is hygroscopic, resulting in a decrease in thermal insulation properties. Pay close attention to the vapor barrier layer when installing mineral wool. Such material also cannot be called absolutely safe for human health.

It is sold in slabs and mats. The last form is made from hydrophobized mineral wool. The blue stripe marks the hard side of the slab. Please note that the marking must face up when laying. Among manufacturers Rockwool and Izovol are the most popular.

Based on mineral fibres. "Izovol" has low thermal conductivity. It has much more hydrophobic efficiency. In addition, it is chemically and biologically resistant, non-flammable.

Basaltic mineral insulation- This is Rockwool brand material:

• resistant to mechanical stress;
• during operation does not shrink and practically does not deform;
• chemically and biologically resistant, non-combustible;
• low thermal conductivity of the flooring;
• well absorbs sounds due to the porous structure.
• excellent sound deadening properties.

Insulation of floors with mineral slabs (video)

We warm the floor with penofol

A new type of thermal insulation material. It hasn't gained much popularity yet.

This is a multi-layer material that is supplied in rolls and consists of a reflective layer ( aluminium foil) and insulation (almost any insulation) .. For example, foamed polyethylene.

The classic version of this insulation is just polyethylene foam, which is fastened with foil. However, all requirements modern construction this option cannot be satisfied. That is why various types of penofol were invented.

Classic penofol has a higher density. It can withstand higher mechanical loads. Insulation can also be used as a hydro and vapor barrier. It will show itself perfectly in tandem with heaters of a different composition.

Penofol comes with two- and one-sided foiling.

Penofol-2000 became a progressive version of penofol. Foamed gas-filled polyethylene is used here as a basis. It costs less than its classic representative.

There is penofol and type "C" - self-adhesive. It is multi-layered: polyethylene foam, contact adhesive (moisture resistant) with release film, aluminum foil. Such a heater can be fixed on any (with a few exceptions) surface thanks to glue. Accordingly, it is very easy and fast to mount it.

The material is laid on the surface of the base. Sheets can be laid either end-to-end or overlapped. The joints must be glued with metallic tape. If you use penofol, then you do not need to perform hydro and vapor barrier. Everything will be provided by aluminum foil. We recommend that you read the material about.

We insulate the floor with foam

Also one of the leading types of insulation. Possesses:

• low vapor permeability;
• significant fire resistance;
• high strength;
• low thermal conductivity;
• chemical and biological resistance;
• does not mold;
• unsuitable for rodents;
• high operating layer.

The disadvantages include the fact that it absorbs moisture, losing some of its properties. When using such a heater, attention should be paid to hydro and vapor barrier.

For insulation, both foamed and extruded foam are suitable. The latter has a solid structure - a mass of closed cells filled with gas molecules.

Of course, insulation has both pros and cons. The advantages include hygroscopicity, low thermal conductivity, durability, fire safety. By cons - a harmful effect on the human body.

We warm the floor with ecowool

This heater is made from natural materials. It consists of 78-81% waste paper, the rest is natural additives - a mixture of cellulose fibers. The binder is the organic antiseptic lignin, as well as boric acid.

The main advantage of ecowool is safety for humans. The advantages also include:

• fire safety (smoldering, not burning);
• low thermal conductivity;
• after drying, it restores the properties of thermal insulation.

The disadvantages include the high cost.

Ecowool can be applied to the surface in different ways:

• manually. Slabs of cotton wool will need to be laid between the bars on shields or boards hemmed from below. The main thing is to lay the insulation tightly and process the joints with mounting foam;
• with the help of special devices - mobile blowing machines. Under the influence of pressure, the insulation is supplied through the hose. There are two ways here: dry (ecowool is blown into the floor cavity) and wet (ecowool is applied to the walls).

Laying ecowool (video)

We insulate the floor with isolon

New generation heater. It is made from expanded polyethylene foam. Izolon was developed taking into account the new requirements for thermal insulation of the floor. Has a number of advantages:

• small thickness - 2.1-10.0 cm. It is noteworthy that the level of thermal conductivity does not increase;
• goes well with any material. Ideal for any gender;
• does not absorb moisture;
• does not rot, protects from the negative effects of moisture and steam;
• high service life;
• environmentally friendly material;
• suitable for any room;
• small thickness. This saves a lot of space.

We insulate the floor with polyurethane foam

This insulation (hard and soft) can be obtained from isocyanate and polyol components.

Cellular in structure polyurethane foam (bubbles are filled with gas and air), provides low thermal conductivity, has a low weight. For a number of properties, it is considered one of the the best materials for thermal insulation.

It is necessary to apply insulation to the surface by spraying. You will have to use special equipment. Polyurethane foam adheres perfectly to any material. A layer of vapor barrier is not needed.

PPU floor insulation (video)

double floors

An efficient heating solution. The subfloor is used as the first layer (unhewn boards that are attached to the beams). There shouldn't be any gaps.

Try to fit all the boards tightly together. Finishing flooring is mounted from above. Even a topcoat made of decorative materials will do.

Often, instead of a draft base, a variety of flooring is used: embossed or smooth coverings with a high level of thermal insulation.

Said material does not accumulate debris. Dust and motes can be removed from it with a vacuum cleaner or swept away. The coating must be glued to the floor with an adhesive. You need to glue in separate strips. Don't forget to glue the seams too.

We warm the floor of fiberboard

For floor insulation, standard DV plates are sometimes used. Such slabs can be placed under the roughing boards or under the finishing flooring (parquet, linoleum, carpet, etc.).

The main thing is to act carefully and do the installation in stages. Observe the alignment of the joints, avoid the formation of cracks.

The type of plates can be different:

• PT-100;
• M-20.

These options will not allow cold to enter the house. Fiberboard for insulation can be used in combination with other heat insulators. For example, with mineral wool.

Underfloor heating system

The mentioned system is especially relevant for floors based on cold cement screed in need of good heating.

The system will evenly heat the floor surface. As a result - comfortable thermal conditions throughout the room. The level of humidity in the house will drop significantly. For the first floor of an eco-friendly wooden house, water is especially relevant. You can get acquainted with the material about.

• lay on the subfloor concrete plates or ;
• lay any kind of insulation. Its thickness should not be less than two centimeters and more than ten;
• lay a reinforcing mesh;
• attach the piping system to the grid with plastic clamps;
• fill the floor with a cement-sand mixture;
• use a backing if necessary;
• install the finish coat.

You can find out about the device and installation technology.

We create an electric floor heating system

Installing it is much easier. Cable structures, safe film infrared elements are used here as heating.

The cable can, if necessary, be stretched on a metal mesh, which is previously needed. Film elements can be attached directly to the screed, insulated with some kind of heat insulator.

We invite you to find out by reading the relevant article on our website.

A variety of heaters can confuse buyers. We list some of the most common types of heat insulators:

• Thermolife. This material usually used for small loads on the heat-insulating layer. Most often, they insulate walls, roofs, interfloor space. Equally well applicable on planes of different inclination.
• Ursa. A popular heater among specialists. Especially common in the decoration of horizontal surfaces. Advantages: good heat and sound insulation properties.
• Insulate. Produced in China. Is issued in rolls. High quality at a low price. Will find application in a variety of areas.

You can insulate the floor in many ways and independently. The choice is great. Dare!

We will send the material to you by e-mail

It is impossible to create a cozy atmosphere in your own home without high-quality floor insulation, since it is when the feet freeze that most people feel discomfort or get sick. By warm floor It's always nice to walk barefoot, especially when it's snowing outside or it's pouring rain. However, to achieve such results, it is necessary to choose a floor insulation in a wooden house, which is better in terms of characteristics and has the simplest installation technology.

The process of insulating floors with stone wool

Since in a wooden house the floors are also laid from boards, special requirements are imposed on:

• It is necessary to ensure the maximum level of fire safety, since wood is a highly flammable material. It is recommended to choose a non-combustible or at least non-combustible insulating material.

• Mandatory resistance to moisture and resistance to its accumulation. This is due to the fact that wood has the property of absorbing and releasing moisture when various temperatures, and if the insulation causes its accumulation along the contact boundary, then the boards will begin to rot.

• Thermal insulation must retain its basic properties throughout the entire service life, but at least longer than the lifetime of wooden floors.
• Sufficient mechanical strength is required to resist caking or loss of thermal insulation properties.
• The composition must be free of harmful chemical substances, especially volatile and volatile.

Important! In addition to the requirements for heaters, it is also necessary to take care of creating the appropriate conditions for their operation.

Insulation for the floor in a wooden house, which one is better to choose?

To choose a floor insulation in a wooden house, which is better and cheaper, you need to know what its main types are. According to the method of delivery, they are divided into the following:

• Mats or slabs . They are lightweight plates that hold a certain shape and retain their geometry during their installation. Usually they are characterized by minimal thermal conductivity and low weight. These include Penoplex plates, polystyrene foam, mineral wool, etc. Install them on a flat surface with minimal roughness. Their simultaneous use with others is allowed. In the manufacture of mats, both natural and artificial materials can be used.

• Rolls . They are rolls based on composite materials, cork, mineral wool, etc. They can have different thicknesses and usually have softness and minimal density. That is, they are light and fit even on uneven surfaces without much difficulty. Thanks to the standard length, laying without cross joints is possible, which significantly improves the level of thermal insulation. However, they are unstable to moisture, so they require special attention for laying the waterproofing layer.

Helpful information! In some cases, mineral wool insulation is produced with a layer of foil layer, which must be on top when laying. It is designed to be moisture resistant.

• Polymer based fluids . Supplied in sealed containers in the form of cans or containers, inside which there is a special composition that can form a solid substance with a foam structure when interacting with air. It can be used to apply heat-insulating layers of any complexity, as it has increased adhesion to almost all surfaces. building materials, and is also able to fill irregularities or hard-to-reach places. A striking example of a polymer composition is penoizol. For its application, it is necessary to use special sprayers. If you want to choose a floor insulation in a wooden house that is optimal in terms of cost, which one is best applied to a wooden base, then you should pay attention to other heat-insulating materials. Such a heater is expensive in price compared to other materials for thermal insulation.

• Loose insulation . These include materials such as expanded clay, sawdust, slag, etc. Due to their flowability, they are able to fill any volumes with sufficient density to ensure minimal thermal conductivity. They can be laid directly on the ground or on a prepared base. The disadvantages of laying such a heater are the following: an increase in the level of the floors, as well as the need to install transverse beams for laying the finished floor.

In each case, the insulation should be chosen in such a way that it is convenient to install, it has more advantages from the application, and the disadvantages do not play a significant role. That is, it is recommended to lay on flat floors plate heaters or rolled, on an uneven rough base - bulk, and on complex bases - polystyrene foam.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step process of floor insulation in a private house

Do-it-yourself floor insulation in a private house is done in stages in the following sequence:

• The subfloor is being prepared for the installation of logs intended for use as the main structure for fixing the insulation.

• In the presence of damaged structures, replacement or repair is carried out. The base for the insulation is carefully strengthened and, if necessary, leveled with your own hands.

• Thermal insulation material is laid in accordance with the installation technology.

• A clean floor is laid.

Related article:

Features of insulation with sawdust

Sawdust is one of the cheapest, but effective heaters. In terms of cost, they are much cheaper than expanded clay or mineral wool, but at the same time they have almost the same thermal conductivity. They are environmentally friendly and therefore will not pose a health hazard. Warming the floor with sawdust consists in filling them into the space between the lags in an even layer. This will not cause any problems with isolation. hard-to-reach places, since sawdust can be easily tamped there. A waterproofing material is laid on top of the stacked sawdust.

Attention! Sawdust, like wood, has an increased fire hazard. Therefore, they must be impregnated with special impregnations. Otherwise, it is recommended to use non-combustible materials.

Floor insulation with foam

The method of laying foam boards is quite simple. First, it is necessary to lay it along the log in one layer, then foam the joints with mounting foam, and then lay the second layer, but with dressing of the seams.

The advantages of using the following:

• Resistant to moisture and rodents.
• Long service life.
• It has sufficient protection against mechanical influences.
• It does not cake over time and does not lose its properties.

Laying roll materials based on mineral or stone wool

Rolled heaters are one of the most popular today, as they have excellent insulating properties and long term services at a relatively low cost. In addition, they are non-flammable and do not emit harmful substances.

Helpful information! Some experts believe that mineral wool is harmful to human health, since formaldehyde is used in its production. However, in practice, it turns out that this volatile substance evaporates during the stay in the production premises.

Since mineral wool loses its thermal insulation properties when moisture gets on it, it must be qualitatively waterproofed from the external environment and vapor barrier from interior spaces. The rolls are laid in one layer between the lags directly on the waterproofing layer, but in such a way that the cotton wool lies tightly against the walls without the slightest gaps. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top. The technology is relatively simple and therefore even non-specialists will not have questions about how to properly insulate floors in wooden houses.

Overview of manufacturers and product prices

The most popular in Russia are the following manufacturers of high-quality thermal insulation materials:

• Isover - the French brand of the Saint-Gobain concern, which has existed for more than 350 years and has managed to prove its reliability and high quality products. One of the priority areas is the production of glass wool insulation. In fact, products from this manufacturer are the benchmark for competitors. At the same time, the cost of glass wool is within reasonable limits and is quite affordable for purchase.

• Linerock - a separate line of products of the Saint-Gobain concern. Represents mineral wool boards high quality, which are also designed to provide high-quality sound insulation of rooms. The manufacturer is domestic with the main production facilities located in the city of Chelyabinsk. The cost of products is quite acceptable, since foreign analogues are several times more expensive.

• Company euroisole produces high-quality mineral wool insulation in the form of plates. They are characterized by increased fire safety, resistance to water absorption and compression. In this case, the cost of the insulating material is at high level, however, if we compare the terms of its operation with analogues of other companies, then Euroizol will win in all technical parameters.

• Products from rockwool is branded and in demand all over the world. The main activity of the company is the production of basalt heat-insulating materials. They are unpretentious to difficult conditions operation and preservation of their properties for several decades. However, their cost is quite democratic and affordable for any resident of Russia.