Several factors affect the availability and retention of heat in a private home. The use of high-quality and reliable heaters plays a lot in this important role. In addition to them, the main keepers of heat in the room are the roof, windows and door leaf. Therefore, when the temperature level in the house is too low, even with good plastic windows, the reason for this may be the installed door. This article will help you find out how to properly insulate a door in a private house, what kind of material is available and which one is best suited for this purpose.
The need for insulation and the choice of materials
Entrance doors can be insulated with mineral woolThe front door is an integral part of any home. It keeps the room warm and comfortable. There are many types of different doors, which differ from each other both in appearance and technical characteristics.
The materials from which they are made:
- tree;
- metal;
- plastic.
Metal doors are very popular, but, like everyone else, they have their drawbacks. Very often, this type of canvas is sold poorly insulated, which directly affects the entry of cool air into the room. To remedy the situation, you will need to know how to decorate the doors in the house with your own hands, which material is better to use.
by the most in a suitable way The insulation of the front door is upholstery. This is the most inexpensive but effective method.
Upholstery can be done using various materials:
Using any of the above materials, you can get excellent results. The main thing is to follow the rules and recommendations on how to properly install and cut.
How to insulate a metal door with foam?
The question of how and how to insulate Chinese doors is asked by almost everyone who installed it. Basically, for the production of iron sheets, several sheets of metal are used, fastened together. To provide additional insulation, the cavity inside needs to be filled.
The size of the foam must correspond to the size of the openings Note! To achieve good thermal insulation, before insulating a metal door, it should be remembered that the width of the foam must correspond to the size of the fasteners between the sheets of the canvas.
Algorithm of work on warming:
- Removing the parameters of the door. Before you insulate the iron door Based on them, you need to cut the canvas from fiberboard in order to close the foam.
- Make holes for peephole and a pen, having previously noted their location and dimensions on the canvas.
- Trying on a fiberboard frame (the marks made must match).
- Cutting foam sheets with a sharp knife. The finished material should be attached to the inside of the door. This must be done by gluing it with silicone applied to the entire surface.
- Closing the insulation with a fiberboard sheet, which should subsequently be fixed to the door using self-tapping screws.
To avoid frostbite and accumulation of cold in the stiffener, you need to fill the void of this tube mounting foam by drilling a hole in it.
Wooden door insulation
Warming wooden door mineral wool Installation of insulation should be carried out only after the elimination of possible defects and analysis of its condition. Otherwise, the presence of a malfunction will make the insulation work useless.
You should pay attention to the following points:
- Door hinges. Their weakening should be corrected by tightening the fixing screws.
- Sealing. In the event of the appearance of cracks and crevices in areas filled with mounting foam, their integrity must be restored. In some cases, you need to completely update the fill.
- Skew. If the product is in a skewed state, it is difficult to open and close, you need to level the problem areas by sharpening them with a planer.
- Door details. It is better to be ready to replace the eye, bell and handle before starting work, so you should make sure that they are in good condition.
Having prepared the door for the installation of insulation, you can proceed to the choice of tools and material necessary for the work.
What you need for a quality process:
Having collected all the necessary tools and materials, as well as eliminating malfunctions, you can proceed directly to the insulation procedure itself.
Performing installation work
The installation of insulation will help to save warm air in the building, since there will be no extra holes between the door and the wall that let the cold through. This is achieved by attaching an adhesive-based rubber profile to the door frame. This process does not require the presence of auxiliary means. Such a sealant is an excellent replacement for the leatherette tape that was previously used and fastened with small nails.
Installation of insulation on the front door Installation takes place as follows:
- cutting the sealant into pieces of the required length;
- fastening them to the slot, gradually relieving the adhesive part of the paper.
The elimination of gaps in the doorway should be carried out after the completion of the entire process. Getting started, you need to determine the parameters of the door frame, the distance between it and the canvas, as well as the dimensions of the gaps. This action will allow you to calculate the required amount of material for the work. It is important that the length of the sides of the box is equal to the length of the seal. The rest of its parameters must correspond to the dimensions of the gap.
upholstery process
All edges of the upholstery must be wrapped inward and fixed Wooden doors are insulated with many materials. For a long time, cotton wool served as the main insulation. Despite the fact that it has fairly good thermal insulation performance, a significant drawback of its use is the ability to absorb moisture, which contributes to the development of the fungus.
To insulate a wooden door, you need to put it on a flat surface, after removing it from the hinges. Interfering parts should also be disconnected. The insulation is attached with nails. You can also use glue or a stapler.
Next, proceed to the installation of finishing material. In order for the canvas to fit well, you must first free the places for fastening from the insulation. Then you need to cut the material and stretch it over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe canvas. It is best to do this work with an assistant. In this way, unwanted accumulations of material can be avoided. If everything is done properly, you should fix the product with a construction stapler. The edges of the upholstery, around the entire perimeter, must be carefully wrapped inward and secured. In order for them not to climb out over time, it is better to wrap the material several times.
Important! Styrofoam insulation is glued to the door using liquid nails.
If it is impossible to remove the door from the hinges, the door frame is also upholstered with leatherette. This will protect the room from the penetration of cold air between the door and the base. To do this, wrap the insulation with leatherette and nail the resulting roller on the side that has a double fold of material.
It is necessary to monitor the density of contact between the door and the insulation. In order to avoid its rapid damage, it is better to use the bottom of the door instead of the threshold for fastening.
Knowing how to carry out internal insulation, external insulation and how to choose a heater, you will significantly reduce the meter. In order to achieve the desired result, it is only necessary to follow the tips and recommendations that will help ensure the presence of warmth and comfort in the room under any vagaries of the weather.
main purpose steel door- protection of the home from burglary. However, in addition to its primary function as a guard, a well-insulated metal door makes a significant contribution to the overall energy efficiency of a home. Heat loss through the purged and freezing doorway, an uninsulated door and an inefficient ventilation system without a heat exchanger can reach up to 20%. Based on this, the importance of installing a reliable and high-quality steel door becomes clear. This article discusses how to insulate a metal door.
Why is there a vestibule at the entrance?
In order for the entrance group to become energy efficient, it is necessary to install two doors - an outdoor steel door that opens outward, and the second - an internal, simple wooden one that opens inside the house. In this case, an air gap is formed between them, and air, as you know, is the best heat insulator. Such a tandem will allow you to keep warm in the house, as well as protect inner door from freezing and sweating in severe frosts.
However, homeowners do not always have the opportunity to equip a full-fledged vestibule.
Also, often at the entrance group, due to lack of funds, they put inexpensive doors that are not distinguished by high workmanship. Result: such a design and a metal frame freezes from the inside of the room in frosts, up to the formation of ice, and it seeps through the cracks between the door leaf and the frame.
Accordingly, the funds spent on heating fly out into the pipe. The way out of this situation could be self-insulation a metal door and, last but not least, a door frame.
Step one - choose a seal
In any case, to obtain a quality result, you must first develop a plan. This thesis is especially relevant when construction works. Therefore, before taking on the insulation, first of all we inspect the doorway. At a low-quality door, due to a loose seal between the door leaf and the frame, cold outdoor air enters the house from outside.
Beer69 FORUMHOUSE User
Do not chase the large thickness of the door and, accordingly, the size of the insulation layer inside it. The main thing is how to insulate a metal door - this is a clear geometry of the “frame-door” assembly, which depends on the thickness of the leaf and stiffeners. Street frost to a greater extent passes through the junction (the gap between the door leaf and the frame), and not through the door leaf. The best performance is achieved when installing a double box with two sealing circuits.
Even the number of locks and the points of their location affect the tightness of the web to the rubber seal. It is optimal when the door locks (2 pcs.) Are located slightly below and slightly above the middle of the leaf.
In terms of frost resistance, best type lock devices - this is a lock with a lever (package of plates) type of mechanism.
Polinka FORUMHOUSE User
At inexpensive doors, the wind often walks between the canvas and the frame. To eliminate this, you need to lay a high-quality self-adhesive seal around the entire perimeter.
The main purpose of the seal is to seal the junction of the door to the door frame. This prevents frost, extraneous noise, dust and wind from getting inside the room.
If, as a result of examining the sealant, it turned out that it does not fulfill its function: it is damaged, has lost elasticity, is laid with violations, then it must be replaced. Before going to the store for a sealant, you need to:
- choose the material of the seal;
- determine the thickness of the seal;
- choose the shape of the seal profile.
The seal can be made from:
- rubber;
- silicone;
- polyurethane;
- plastic;
- foam rubber.
Most often, rubber seals are used to seal the door-frame junction. They are durable, resistant to adverse weather conditions, low cost. Silicone sealant has similar qualities. Due to the ease of installation, polyurethane self-adhesive seals have become widespread.
It is also important to choose a sealant of the desired thickness and profile. To do this, you need to measure the gap between the door leaf and the frame. For guidance, you can follow the following rules:
- If the gap does not exceed one to three mm, then you can choose a rectangular seal.
- If the gap is 3 mm, you can choose a seal with a C, K, or E-shaped profile.
- With a gap of 3 to 5 mm, a seal with a P or V profile shape is used.
- If the gap is more than 5 mm, then a seal with an O or D profile shape is installed.
If the sealant is glued with silicone adhesive, then before applying the adhesive, the surface must be cleaned of the old sealant and degreased. When gluing the sealant, special attention must be paid to the corners, because when cutting the seal, gaps may remain in them.
Step two - insulate the door frame
Many novice developers believe that it is enough to buy and install a well-insulated metal door, and the entrance group will become energy efficient. Such a factor as the most powerful cold bridge, which is a metal door frame, is often overlooked.
Warm and dry FORUMHOUSE User
I “looked” at the door frame through the thermal imager and was surprised how much it stands out in color against the general background of a well-insulated door. I previously assumed that the metal freezes badly, but now I am convinced of how great the heat loss in this node is. You need to insulate the box. The only question is how to do it.
IN Lately metal structures with a thermal break are gaining popularity. In this case, the inner and outer surfaces of the web and the box are separated from each other by a material with low thermal conductivity. As a result, the cold bridge is eliminated.
Using the principle of thermal break, it is possible to modify the metal frame of a cheap door. To do this, the metal (metal box) is isolated from warm room. This can be done by installing an additional wooden box and a platband. As an option - before gluing the contour of the metal box with a heat-insulating strip of isolon.
SergeiSt FORUMHOUSE User
The insulation inside the steel door is more needed for sound insulation than for thermal insulation. Therefore, in the struggle for energy efficiency, it is necessary to close all metal parts of the door from the inside of a warm room. This is exactly what we do by closing and isolating the metal circuit (door frame) with a wooden extension with a rubber seal.
What such a node looks like can be clearly seen in this figure.
Also, a wooden box, due to the texture of wood, ennobles the entrance group.
In addition to the method described above, how to insulate an iron door, such an option for insulating a door frame as foaming its internal cavity is often offered. To do this, holes are drilled along the perimeter of the steel frame, through which, from a can, mounting foam is injected inside. Let's do an experiment to see if this method is justified. Let's take any metal pipe, fill it up and put it out in the cold. Let's leave it for a while and then touch the metal with our hand.
Mounting foam, expanding, can lead to deformation of the door frame or stain the door leaf. You also need to remember that polyurethane foam can get into the crossbar cavity and, after drying, jam the crossbars and disable the lock.
Andrey-AA FORUMHOUSE User
I decided to insulate the metal front door in the country house by foaming the door frame with mounting foam. Foamed from the heart. As a result, foam through small cracks hit the crossbars and froze. Trying to open the door, I first broke the key, then I decided to drill the lock or even turn the door with a crowbar. Having somewhat calmed down and thought, I opened the box with a grinder and, putting my hand in, pushed out the crossbars with my fingers. Until the end of the frozen foam flowed out of the slot. I had to, in order not to spoil the canvas, to glueits cellophane and construction tape. Then I waited for all the foam to dry so that it could be removed from the crossbar cavity with a chisel.
Conclusion: you need to be careful with foaming the box!
Andrew 203 FORUMHOUSE User
Foaming the box improves sound insulation to a greater extent than serves the purpose of insulation. This should be done only with the door open and then, before closing it with a lock, wait for the foam to completely harden. After that, the holes for the crossbars must be cleaned with a drill, or a narrow chisel or other tool.
Step three - insulate the door leaf
Having completed the previous two steps, we proceed directly to the insulation door structure. There are two options here:
- Internal insulation of the door cavity. Why does the door need to be removed and disassembled.
- If the door cannot be disassembled, then it will have to be insulated on the surface of the canvas.
For the first option, we do the following:
- We're filming.
- We dismantle decorative panel.
- We insert into the cavity (between the stiffening ribs) a foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam.
- We seal the cracks and install the decorative panel back.
- We put it in place.
A door insulated in this way can be upholstered with clapboard, glued with artificial leather, finished with a brushed board. There is a wide scope for creativity here. Do not drill holes in the door leaf and try to foam it from the inside or pour granular foam through these holes in the cavity. If you blindly insulate a metal front door, such an upgrade can lead to jamming and failure of the locking mechanism.
If the metal door leaf cannot be carefully dismantled without destroying it (it is rolled), then the insulation will have to be mounted on top of the door.
WAAD FORUMHOUSE User
The forum member did this - first he drilled holes and foamed carefully door frame, which ensured its 100% sealing and increased sound insulation. The outer part of the door was pasted over with an advertising film. Then on this film with liquid nails glued extruded polystyrene foam 2 cm thick.
Sticking the film on the door will allow you to later dismantle the insulation without a time-consuming operation to remove glue from the door leaf. The film is easily separated if heated with an industrial hair dryer.
Also, as a temporary option, for emergency or emergency cases, you can temporarily “insulate” the entrance to the house in this way.
From within, in doorway, a dense and heavy fabric is hung, which, when leaving or entering the house, leans to the side. It should look like a curtain or curtain. The fabric is hung not close to the door, but at a small distance from it (5-10 cm). If the depth of the opening allows, then you can hang two curtains, also at a short distance from each other. It turns out a mini-tambour. Due to the air gap, heat from the house will not go outside.
Despite the emergence of a wide variety of structural materials, wood has not gone out of fashion for many centuries. The reasons for such popularity lie in its unique qualities of this material to create comfort in the house and transform its appearance. Important advantages of wood include its environmental friendliness, low thermal conductivity and, with proper processing, enviable durability. Modern technologies and tools provide new opportunities in the processing of wood, bringing its surface to perfection and at the same time emphasizing the natural beauty.
Insulated wooden entrance doors of various models and designs can be found in specialized stores or ordered from specialized companies involved in wood processing and the manufacture of door sets from it. However, if desired and possessing basic technological skills for carpentry, a wooden door with insulation can be made independently.
Moreover, it should be noted that if the wood itself is of high quality and the necessary pre-treatment, in the process of manufacturing the door, you can do without expensive professional tools. Of course, in this case, the work will take more time and effort, but by doing the assembly yourself, you can save a decent amount.
As you know, in the cold season, heat losses occur from the house heated from the inside through different elements building structures, and doors are no exception. This means that the total amount of thermal energy loss directly depends on how well the door and its frame are made and insulated.
Types of entrance doors
Paneled door
Wooden panel doors can be made entirely of natural wood or glued laminated timber, but composite materials are also often used, such as MDF - for the manufacture of panels. This model is also suitable for installation at the entrance, but it is still most often used for doorways apartments or private houses located in regions with a mild winter climate. Often, in order to use such a design as an input, an insulating material is laid on it from the inside, covered with leatherette.
Paneled doors by themselves are not a sufficiently "warm" assembly, since the parts from which they are made can be from different materials, have different thickness, density, heat-conducting qualities.
If the canvas is assembled from various types of wood that differ in color and texture, then in order to achieve aesthetics and harmony in appearance, the parts are pasted over with natural veneer, which further reduces the thermal conductivity of the material.
The panel structure is made of solid or glued beams, it includes the top, bottom, one or more middle horizontal crossbars and a vertical mullion (there is also one or more). Horizontal crossbars serve as "stiffening ribs" for the web, and the more of these elements are installed, the less risk of deformation of the structure.
The structural elements are connected to each other with a spike connection, and then fastened with dowels.
Panels made of MDF or natural boards, processed along the edges with a milling cutter, are glued into the windows that form the frame. The thickness of the edges of the panel panels should be approximately ⅓ of the frame timber. The panels are installed in the grooves chosen for them in the frame beam or fixed with a figured glazing bead.
It should be noted that despite the fact that the paneled door consists of numerous elements glued together, with high-quality performance, it is in no way inferior to a massive one in terms of reliability and strength.
Paneled doors, made by real craftsmen, sometimes have a cost that exceeds the prices of massive structures, since much in determining this criterion depends on the type of material used and on the aesthetic design.
Frame and panel structures of doors
Framed front doors can be called the most common option, as they are mostly affordable. There are, of course, quite expensive models - this parameter will depend on the materials from which the frame of the structure is made, its filler and finish.
The frames of this type of door are made of solid board or glued beams. For outer skin use MDF, fiberboard or lining made of natural wood, 10 mm thick, of different widths, which is installed horizontally, vertically, diagonally or various geometric patterns are formed from it. A variety of materials are used as insulating filler. They are guided by this criterion when choosing a door at the place of its installation or according to the climatic conditions of the region. Yes, as insulation material foam, mineral wool, shavings, cardboard or paper honeycombs are used.
Sometimes the frame consists of only strapping timber, and the space between two sheathing panels is filled with low-grade lumber.
Frame or panel structures of doors are solid, hollow or small-hollow:
- Panel doors are called solid door structures, that is, a shield is assembled from an unedged or low-quality timber, which is sheathed on both sides with fiberboard or MDF. Wooden lining in this type of door, as a rule, is not used, otherwise the door will turn out to be excessively massive. A similar design can be used as an entrance only for apartments in high-rise buildings, since the entrance premises themselves are a certain barrier that delays the street cold. But even in such conditions of the entrance, good owners sheathe the door with insulating material in combination with leatherette.
Hollow door, which consists of a strapping and one or two crossbars, sheathed with fiberboard, MDF or clapboard. The space between the facing canvases remains empty. It follows from this that this door is in no way suitable for installing it at the entrance of a house or apartment. Its purpose is to separate the interior spaces.
- Small-hollow structures can have different fillings, including thermal insulation material. But if such a door is planned to be installed at the entrance, it makes sense to completely fill its cavity using heaters with low thermal conductivity - polystyrene foam, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, and foil foam polyethylene can also be used in combination with them.
Having figured out what each of the types of doors installed on the entrance opening is, you can choose one of them for self-production. First of all, to carry out this process, you will need to stock up on tools and materials.
Tools for the job
For any carpentry work, you must have special tools. Even if it is not possible to purchase expensive modern devices, it is quite possible to get by with a classic hand set.
Despite the emergence of modern electrified tools, the "classic" manual ones also do not go out of use. - For the convenience of work, you will need a reliable and stable workbench, on which the manufacture, processing and assembly of structural parts will be carried out.
- The work will be extremely simplified if the owner has a milling cutter in the set of power tools. It will help accurately and efficiently process wood, give desired shape and sizes of door details, choose grooves and sockets, and even decorate the canvas with some kind of embossed pattern. If this tool is not available, then you can use milling drills by installing them in a screwdriver or drill. Previously, when there were no such convenient devices at all, carpenters used chisels and cutters of various configurations for these purposes. So if it is not possible to purchase a milling cutter, stock up on a set of chisels.
- A hand planer is also capable, in certain cases, of replacing milling machine. They are leveled and adjusted to the size of the part, if necessary, corners (bevels) are cut, and other technological operations are performed.
- In order for the elements of the door to be glued together with high quality and firmly, it is impossible to do without clamps that will tighten the parts assembled into a canvas.
- For the manufacture of blanks, hacksaws will be required.
- Hammers are needed - ordinary and rubber (or wooden - a mallet).
- Finishing will require electrical grinder And sandpaper To her. The grinder can be replaced with a small piece of a bar, on which sandpaper is nailed or screwed on.
- To assemble the structure, install locks and hinges, drill holes for dowels or self-tapping screws, you need a screwdriver. In extreme cases, you can get by with a drill and a set of screwdrivers.
- Measuring and marking equipment is needed - a tape measure, a ruler, a folding ruler, a carpenter's corner, a simple pencil or a marker is a must.
Door materials
To make a door, you will need materials that need to be prepared in advance:
- Wood - in terms of size, grade and quantity, lumber is selected individually for each type of product.
- Special wood glue.
- Self-tapping screws of various lengths and wooden dowels. Usually they are used by professional craftsmen to fix wooden parts to each other. But some manufacturers prefer metal corners and trims.
- Warming material.
It should be noted that additional materials may be required for each type of door - they will be mentioned when describing the procedure for making models.
How to choose wood?
In order for the door to serve for a long time and not dry out or deform, the choice of wood must be approached with all responsibility. The main material of construction is selected according to the following criteria:
- The type of wood is selected depending on the type of construction and financial capabilities. If a massive door will be manufactured without additional insulation, then it is worth choosing more expensive types of material that have a high density - it can be oak or cedar, larch or wood of some fruit trees.
- For the manufacture of a leaf for a massive or paneled door, commercial wood is purchased that has a minimum number of knots. Lower-grade wood can be chosen for tying the frame structure, but if it is sheathed with wooden clapboard, then facing material must be of the highest quality.
- It is important to choose lumber that has optimal moisture content - it should be 11 ÷ 15%. Only in this case, the material will be easy to process, and products from it will serve long time, without deforming, without swelling and without cracking. The best option would be wood that has been dried in a special chamber.
When choosing lumber, special attention is paid to their grade, degree of drying and evenness. - When buying, each of the boards (bars) is checked for evenness. This process is carried out visually, and even better - with the laying of the purchased parts on a flat surface. So all the shortcomings will be immediately noticeable.
- In order for the finished door leaf to have a thickness of 50 mm, you need to choose:
- for a massive door - a board 50 mm thick;
- for a frame door sheathed with five-millimeter fiberboard, a bar or board of 40 mm, and sheathed with a ten-millimeter clapboard - 30 mm thick;
- for strapping and cross-beams of a paneled canvas, you will need a board 50 mm thick, and for panels, depending on their design - from 15 ÷ 20 mm.
- In order for the structure to have good rigidity, it is better to choose boards for strapping or making the entire web with a width of 120 ÷ 150 mm.
Before installation, all boards and bars must be processed with a grinder by installing fine-grained sandpaper on it, or manually.
What kind of insulation to use?
Since, in general, all homeowners prefer to insulate their front doors, you should also consider what thermal insulation materials most often used for these purposes.
Prices for entrance doors Zetta
Zetta door
Whichever one is chosen, in order to enhance the insulating effect and prevent drafts from entering the premises, it is imperative to seal the door frame. For this, mounting foams, special foam rubber self-adhesive pads or PSUL tapes (pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tapes) are most often used. Any of these options is suitable for all types of doors.
The most common heaters for thermal insulation of the front door leaf:
| Material parameters | Izolon (polyethylene foam) | Styrofoam | Mineral wool |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compressive strength at 10% deformation, not less than (Kpa) | 0.031÷0.33 | 40÷160 | - |
| Density, kg/m³ | 25÷200 | 15÷50 | 11÷50 |
| Thermal conductivity coefficient at 25±5˚С (W/(m×°K) | 0.031÷0.037 | 0.038÷0.041 | 0.036÷0.043 |
| Water absorption, % by volume, not less than | 1.0÷1.5 | 1.8÷4.0 | 10÷15 |
| Flammability group | G2÷G4 | G2÷G4 | NG÷G1 |
- Mineral wool has high thermal insulation characteristics and is often used for internal insulation frame doors. Its disadvantage can be called the fact that over time it tends to sag, exposing some areas of the canvas space between the skin. In order to prevent this phenomenon, it is advisable to glue the mineral wool mats on a waterproof adhesive, distributing it in strips on the surface to be insulated. Mineral wool mats are produced, which are equipped with a foil layer - this material option is more expensive, but also thermal insulation characteristics he is much higher. In addition, due to the foil layer, the insulation becomes more rigid, therefore, the risk of its shrinkage is reduced.
- Foam rubber up to 10 mm thick is used for external insulation of the door from the inside of the room, followed by closing it with leatherette or leatherette lining, which is fixed with decorative nails.
How to insulate an already finished door?
To do this, you can perform its decorative upholstery with laying a thin insulation material under it. How to do it correctly - read in a separate publication of our portal.
Good insulating qualities are shown by isolon - foil polyethylene foam - Izolon or polyethylene foam has high insulating characteristics, and a variant of this material tends to reflect heat into the room, so it is very widely used for thermal insulation. Isolon is somewhat reminiscent of foam rubber, but more effective, and can be used in combination with other insulation materials. It is used to enhance internal insulation and to fix on the inner surface of the door for decorative trim.
The most inexpensive option is to use expanded polystyrene for door insulation. - Expanded polystyrene also has good thermal insulation qualities. In addition, it fits snugly between frame elements and does not change its shape throughout the entire period of operation. However, one should not forget that this material eventually begins to release formaldehydes, which are harmful to human health. In addition, polystyrene foam can not be called fireproof.
- Polyurethane foam is perfect for thermal insulation of the interior space of a frame door, as it completely seals all joints of parts, penetrating into any gap. Using this material, it is not necessary to use sophisticated equipment - you can simply use mounting foam, which has a packaging that is convenient for work. Excess polyurethane foam rising above the frame can be easily cut off with a sharp knife.
find out detailed instructions, like , from a new article on our portal.
Production and insulation of a paneled door
This type of door consists of a considerable number of parts, and each of them has a rather complex shape. Therefore, in order for the assembly of elements into a single canvas to be of high quality, all parts must be very carefully made in size and processed with high quality. If all these operations are carried out manually, then the manufacture door leaf will take quite a long time. In the event that there is no significant experience in working with wood, but it is still decided to make the door yourself, you should not choose complex structures- it would be better to choose a simple and affordable option frame type.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | It will be easier to do the work if you draw up a detailed drawing of the product and put down the dimensions on it. In the presented drawing, you can see the simplest version of a paneled door with a minimum number of connecting seams, since the canvas has only two panels in its composition. Individual parts are numbered and named: 1-horizontal upper mullion included in the harness; 2-upper panel; 3-vertical strapping bars; 4-middle center; 5-lower panel; 6- horizontal lower mullion included in the harness. This drawing does not contain dimensions, but from it it becomes clear what parameters need to be calculated when drawing up a manufacturing project similar product, putting down the data necessary for a particular doorway. |
 | For the manufacture of strapping and mullions, it is necessary to prepare a massive or glued beam, but if the second material option is chosen, then it should be noted that due to glue it will be more difficult to process. Ready, well-planed timber on one side is processed by a milling cutter. A groove is cut out in it for installing panels in it and connecting the parts to each other. In some cases, curly cuts are made along the edges of the groove - chamfers. They will replace the glazing bead that fixes the panel panel. If glazing beads are used, the edges of the timber can be left even. In addition, if a heater is fixed on the inside of the paneled door, then wooden details can be "finished" only from the outer edge. |
| Next, you need to work on connecting elements, since it will be necessary to fasten together the horizontal and vertical strapping elements and (for the model shown in the drawing) one mullion. To do this, in the horizontal elements along the edges, a spike of the desired size is cut out with a milling cutter, and in the vertical elements, the corresponding grooves. The tongue and groove should be ⅓ thick of the timber used. The connection can be different, and which one to choose for ease of manufacture is up to the master to decide. The grooves cut in the horizontal bars should ideally fit the spikes, and the parts should fit snugly together. In order for this work to be done accurately, before starting it, you need to carry out an accurate markup. |
|
 | Panels, as mentioned above, are made of chipboard, board or MDF. If boards are selected, then a panel of them is assembled (glued together, pulled together in clamps and dried) in advance. Plywood with a thickness of 20 mm can be processed immediately after the groove-thorn joints are made. If the inner side of the canvas is insulated, then the processing of the panels can only be carried out from the outside. |
 | Sometimes a panel blank can be assembled in thickness from two or three layers, which allows its middle part to be raised to the level of the thickness of the strapping beam. In this variant, shaped overlays are glued on the middle flat plywood panel on both sides or only on one side. Such panels are glued together under pressure, as they must form one whole panel. The middle layer of the panel must be fitted to the groove, which is arranged in the strapping bars and the mullion. In order for the part to freely enter the groove, its thickness is made 1-2 mm less than the width of the groove. |
 | After all the details of the door are made, it is advisable to treat them separately with antiseptic and flame retardant impregnations, if necessary, immediately cover them with stain and dry them. |
 | After drying the parts, you can begin to assemble them into a single canvas. This work should be carried out on a level sturdy table(workbench). To be sure, before “planting” the parts on carpentry glue, they are assembled dry. If all the spikes are tightly installed in the grooves, and as a result of the assembly, a perfectly even design of the door leaf is obtained, then you can proceed to the assembly with glue. The evenness of the door is checked by measuring it diagonally and comparing the lengths obtained - they must be the same. |
 | To make the work go smoothly, it is carried out in stages: - the first step is to glue a horizontal part of the strapping into one of the vertical bars; - further, a panel is glued into the resulting right angle and gently tapped with a rubber mallet until the spikes fit snugly into the grooves of the horizontal and vertical bar; - after that, in the middle groove of the vertical beam and the bottom side of the panel, a mullion is installed on the glue, also knocked out with a rubber hammer; - then, the second panel is glued into the mullion and the vertical beam; - further on the lower part of the panel and the lower groove in vertical bar the second horizontal part of the strapping is mounted; - the final and most difficult stage of assembly is the installation of the last vertical side of the strapping, it is necessary to immediately install the spikes of the crossbars and the mullion, as well as the uncovered sides of the panels. |
 | While the glue has not dried, the entire structure can still be corrected. To do this, you first need to check the dimensions of the diagonals of the structure again - if they have the same length, then this means that the corners of the canvas are straight. Additionally, corners are checked using a building corner. After making sure that the canvas is glued evenly, it is clamped into clamps until the glue is completely dry. |
 | Only after the canvas is dried, the strapping in the corners and at the connection with the mullion are fastened with dowels. To do this, two diagonally placed through holes are drilled in these zones, the size of which will be larger diameter dowel by 1÷1.5 mm. The dowels are lubricated with glue and carefully hammered into the holes. After the glue dries, the bonding point is cleaned, if necessary, covered with putty. |
 | Having completed these steps, the panels are framed with glazing beads. They are also fixed with wood glue, but for fidelity, subtle carnations can also be used, for example, by biting off their hats. |
 | Next, the door leaf is marked for holes and sockets, in which fittings will be installed - locks, handles and hinges. |
 | According to the markings in the door leaf, holes are drilled into which fittings are tried on, but they will be installed after painting and warming the door leaf. |
 | If the door is planned to be painted or varnished, then this process is carried out in the sequence shown in the diagram. In order for the coloring to look neat, it is necessary to ensure that the paint does not gather in the corners. Even if the paneled door is planned to be insulated from the inside, painting is done on both sides of the leaf, as this will create an additional layer of protection for the wood. Warming is carried out after the paint is completely dry. |
 | If the door has not yet been installed in the opening, then it will be easier to insulate it and sheathe it with finishing material, but it will also not be difficult to insulate the canvas already hung on the hinges. Foam rubber is required for insulation, if desired, isolon, leather substitute, decorative nails can be used with it. The foam rubber is laid out on the door leaf, the desired size is measured and the excess is cut off. Since the insulation will subsequently be nailed to a wooden surface, it can be temporarily fixed with double-sided tape. After that, holes are outlined and cut out in the heat insulator - for the eye and the installation of locks and handles. |
 | If more effective insulation is required, then an isolon is laid on top of the foam rubber with the foil side up. In the case of using two materials in combination, their common layer should not have a thickness of more than 15 mm. In isolon, as well as in foam rubber, it will be necessary to cut holes, and then the material is fixed to the wooden surface with staples, but not along the very edge of the canvas, but with an indent from it of 20 ÷ 25 mm. Leatherette is laid on top of the insulation and is also fixed in several places. If the door is sheathed "on weight", then all materials begin to be fixed from above, gradually falling down. |
 | It should be clarified that the door trim that opens outward is different from the finish of the leaf that opens inward. The photo shows a version of the door that opens inwards. Insulating it, in addition to the general sheathing fabric, use strips of leatherette, 180 ÷ 200 mm wide, which should protrude about half the fabric. Then these strips are bent in half, and a foam roller or a piece of foam rubber is inserted inside them. Next, the bottom bent strip, is tucked under the insulation laid on the entire surface, and its upper part is laid on top of the leatherette, folded inward by 10 mm and fixed with decorative nails. G air is clogged at a distance of 100 ÷ 150 mm from each other. |
 | If the door opens outward, then a strip with a foam roller is nailed to the door frame from inside the apartment. The fixed strip should protrude beyond the frame by 20 ÷ 25 mm, as it should tightly cover the gap between the door leaf and the frame elements. |
 | In this version, leatherette is nailed to the surface of the door, stepping back from its edge by 10 ÷ 15 mm - this must be observed in order for the door to fit snugly against the posts and crossbars of the door jamb. |
 | Locks and handles, as well as a viewing eye, are installed on top of the leatherette upholstery. The cut uneven edges of the material are tucked into the holes prepared for the installation of the lock. |
 | How to properly install the fittings, and what size gaps need to be provided between the door frame and the leaf, can be seen in this diagram. Also here you can clearly see how the box itself is assembled. According to the marked places, the necessary grooves are selected at the end of the door and screwed door hinges. Then the door is installed in the door frame, on which the reciprocal parts of the hinged hinges are already marked and screwed. |
It can also be noted here that a massive door, if necessary, is insulated in exactly the same way.
Production and insulation of a frame door
A panel door, just like a paneled or massive one, is insulated from the outside - its internal space is completely filled with low-quality wood - it may not be a cut timber or a board assembled into a shield and sheathed on the outside with fiberboard or thin plywood.
The frame door consists of a strapping and several crossbars or diagonally installed spacers, between which insulation material is laid - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, or the space is completely filled with mounting foam. The entire structure of the entrance frame door is sheathed on the outside with wooden clapboard. Some craftsmen install thin a metal sheet which will make the door more secure.
If desired, the surface facing the premises can be sheathed with fiberboard, and then additionally insulated with foam rubber, followed by upholstery with leatherette.
This version of the door can be called the most economical and easiest to manufacture.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | Before making a material calculation, it is necessary to decide how the lining will be located, which will sheathe the door leaf, since how to install the frame cross members will depend on this. |
 | If the entire lining will be fixed vertically, then it is enough to install one or two crossbars. Horizontal sheathing requires the installation of two vertical bars inside the strapping. If the skin will have a more complex pattern, consisting of small elements, then for each of them it is necessary to provide support bars, to which each of the elements of the pattern will be fixed on both sides. |
 | Whatever sheathing is conceived, the first thing to do is to assemble a reliable frame. For him, parts are prepared from a bar of the desired length. |
 | At the corners, the beam can have different connections. Sometimes the “groove-thorn” method is used, but it is easier to use the “half-tree” or “paw” methods shown in the presented diagram. Taking into account the fact that the entire structure will be sheathed with clapboard, which will give it additional rigidity, such connections are quite suitable for fastening strapping bars. In order for the length of the groove to be the same, and washed down evenly, you first need to mark the edges of the timber. The depth of the grooves should be half the thickness of the timber. |
 | Having prepared the strapping elements, it is also necessary to make the internal parts of the frame, according to a pre-drawn drawing. Crossbars or vertical bars can be connected to the harness using the connections mentioned above, or using metal corners. Before installation, all joints of the timber are smeared with glue, set up along the building corner. The structure is compressed with clamps and left to dry. |
 | When the glue is completely dry, two holes are drilled on the joints, into which wooden dowels are carefully hammered. The drilled holes should have a diameter of 10-12 mm, respectively, the diameter of the dowel can be 1-1.5 mm less so that it fits freely into the hole. Before hammering it, it is smeared with glue. The protruding part of the dowel is cut off only after the glue has dried. |
| If the strapping beam is not wide enough, then in the area where the lock is installed, it is necessary to make an inlay from the beam. | |
 | Further, the side of the frame, which will go into the hallway, is sheathed with one of the selected materials. Most often, fiberboard or plywood is chosen, 5 ÷ 8 mm thick, but some craftsmen prefer to sheathe both sides with clapboard 10 mm thick. |
 | The lining must be well processed and have a beautiful textured pattern, only in this case the door will look respectable. The lining must be covered with an antiseptic composition and flame retardant, then allow the funds to soak and dry. |
 | Warming is carried out after all the elements are dried. To do this, one of the heat-insulating materials is placed between the slats. If mineral wool is chosen, then it is best to fix it with glue, which is applied to the inside of the skin. It is also recommended to fix a rolled isolon on top of the cotton wool - foamed foil material, 3 ÷ 5 mm thick. The foil should be facing towards the room. Izolon can be fixed on the frame elements with staples and a stapler. |
 | When used for thermal insulation of foam, it is cut into separate pieces, having the size and shape of the space between the bars of the frame - the material must fit snugly with it. Nevertheless, gaps still form between the foam plastic and wooden elements, and they must be filled with mounting foam - it will additionally fix the insulation in the frame. |
 | The best and most convenient option for insulating a frame door is foil-clad mineral wool. It is laid with foil towards the room, to reflect heat into the premises. This material is well cut with a sharp knife, and the foil gives the material additional rigidity. |
 | The next step is lining the second side of the door leaf with clapboard. To make the finish look neat and complete, it is recommended to fix a frame from the lining along the perimeter of the canvas, and elements according to the selected pattern are already installed inside it. The lining strips are connected to each other using a groove-thorn connection, and fixed on the frame with 20 mm nails or self-tapping screws, which are driven or screwed into the groove of the installed panel. You can use special metal holders - kleimers for fixing. They are installed on the lower "shelf" of the groove, and through them the lining is fixed to the frame. After sheathing, such a mount becomes completely invisible. |
 | Next, the door is installed in the door frame, and the hinges are marked. Then, according to their size, at the end of the door leaf and on the frame, wood is selected to the desired depth, since the hinge plates must be located flush with the surfaces of the parts on which they are attached. |
 | After hanging the door on the hinges, markings are made for mounting the lock and handle. The lock is applied to the canvas, where the depth of its installation is noted, and on the end part - the width and height of the groove to be knocked out. After that, the appropriate “nest” is selected for the lock using chisels and a drill or a milling cutter. In the latter case, the canvas will have to be removed and laid in a horizontal position. A lock is inserted into the finished hole and fixed. Then, grooves for the bolts of the locks are cut out in the door frame, and the corresponding metal linings are attached. |
 | Along the perimeter of the door frame, a foam rubber or silicone insulation tape is glued to the porch. Thanks to this seal, the door in the closed state will fit snugly against the frame, which will significantly reduce the risk of drafts. |
After reviewing the nuances of insulation, each home master himself can choose the method of thermal insulation. So, if you plan to insulate an already finished door, you can use foam rubber or foamed polyethylene in combination with leatherette. Well, if you plan to independently manufacture this product, then frame version will be the most affordable even for a novice craftsman who has not yet received sufficient experience in carpentry practice. Let the video tutorial below help him:
Video: making a simple frame-type insulated door
The presence of doors in the room is a necessity, but it is through them that the cold enters the room. To avoid this problem, consider how to insulate a wooden front door in a private house with your own hands.
How is the door insulated?
Insulation of entrance doors plays a very important role in reducing heat loss from the house. All the work can be done with your bunches, but first you need to prepare all the tools and materials.
Comfort in the room depends on the chosen insulation. Today there are a lot of such materials on the market, the main ones are mineral wool, isolon, polystyrene foam, and polystyrene foam.
- Mineral wool and polystyrene are used for metal doors, these materials do not release heat from the building, and are also resistant to damage by rodents and microorganisms. Rodents will not spoil mineral wool material. Such material has some drawbacks, is combustible, therefore, when insulating wooden doors, they must be treated with a special agent. Mineral wool can sag over time, so it slides to the very bottom of the doors, and the rest of them becomes uninsulated. Mineral wool is able to absorb moisture, so it is not used in wet rooms.
- To achieve maximum effective insulation doors, you can use a material such as isolon. This material perfectly retains heat and creates comfort in the room. Izolon is made of foamed polyethylene, so its main characteristic is the minimum thermal conductivity. The isolon sheet may not be too thick, it is enough to take from 10 to 15 millimeters. Thus, the door is not bulky and has an attractive appearance.
- Expanded polystyrene is also a suitable material, it is a reliable protection of doors from the cold. The material is non-combustible, therefore it is allowed for insulation of wooden doors without processing by special means. If a fire appears, then on this material it will quickly disappear, and will not spread further.
- To save on costs, you can use regular foam rubber. It fits in the simplest way, with its help you can fix any defects. Anyone can use this material, even without work experience.
What is needed to get the job done?
To get started, you need to prepare a tool, and all the necessary materials, so as not to be distracted by the search for one or another item. To do this, you need a tape measure, a clerical knife, a pencil, a hammer, a hacksaw, a hard meter, a screwdriver, a nail puller, a stapler building type.
If necessary, you can add other tools, the main thing is to write a list first, and collect everything you need from it. Some tools can be replaced by others, for example, instead of a hacksaw, an electric jigsaw is used, thanks to this, the work will go faster. Instead of a screwdriver, you can use conventional drill with a reverse for unscrewing screws.
You also need to prepare the selected material for sheathing, in some cases a leather substitute is used, which gives the door surface a neat and beautiful look. Such material is resistant to wear, that is, durable, therefore, does not require constant replacement.
Preparing doors for trim
The work is carried out in stages, it is better to write a plan on paper and follow all the steps on it, this will help to avoid mistakes. First you need to prepare the door.
To make it convenient to work, the canvas of a wooden door is removed from the hinges with a nail puller. To do this, the canvas is hooked at the bottom, and it comes off the hinges by itself. If the canopies are rusted, they are lubricated with oil, and then they proceed to remove the door, this is done so that the metal element does not break off. Then gradually turn the hinge, without sudden movements, and remove the door leaf.
When the doors are removed, all additional elements are removed from them, that is, eyes, handles, locks, and hinges. If the door is covered with other material, then it must be removed in order to access wooden material was open. The canvas must be laid on comfortable spot so that it is comfortable to walk around it, fully performing the work.
How to cut material?
At this stage, the insulation material is laid, but first of all it must be cut correctly, a clerical knife will help with this. The heat-insulating material can be cut in length and in the width of the sheet so that there are no empty areas. If there are voids in the door, then insulation material is placed in them, it is inserted between the frame bars.
All sections are tightly inserted into a wooden frame to avoid the formation of cold bridges. If you cut off too much material, then it will bubble, this is also unacceptable, the extra pieces are removed. After correct selection, the insulation is fixed with staples; for this, a construction stapler is used.
Door trim with new material
Then the insulated doors are sheathed with prepared material, for this a leather substitute is used. The canvas must be cut so that there is a margin of at least 10 centimeters in length and width. This is done so that the edges can be bent around the entire perimeter of the doors.
The finishing material can be leatherette or another type of sheathing, it is fixed with special nails with a large decorative type hat. Thanks to this hat, the nails have a beautiful look. Copper wire can be attached to the nails, it will serve as an additional fastening of the insulation material, and the cladding from the outside. You can refuse to insulate doors soft materials, and use MDF, this method is suitable for a frame-like canvas. The sheets are fixed with a kleimer, and fixed with nails around the entire perimeter.
Hardware installation
When the sheathing work is completed, it is necessary to return all the fittings to their original place. All hinges, locks, peephole, and handle must be installed exactly in the place where they were removed from.
The hole for the lock is carefully cut out so that there is no various damage on the surface of the sheathing material. Then the seal is replaced on the box, if necessary. During these steps, you can replace the old lock with a new device. Then the door is installed in its place.
Fixing the sealing material
Laying insulation on the door prevents the penetration of cold into the room, but this is not enough for full insulation. When the door is closed. A small gap is formed between the canvas and the loot, through which the cold enters the room. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out high-quality insulation, and remove all through holes. Before starting work, it is necessary to choose the type of sealing material, it can be made of foam rubber, silicone or rubber.
The foam seal is an affordable and inexpensive material. This type of seal is suitable for doors with infrequent use, for example, in country houses because it can wear out quickly. Such material is not durable, and requires frequent replacement.
The silicone type seal lasts a longer period compared to foam rubber elements. When using this material, the canvas will be tightly pressed against the loot, this will provide maximum protection for the doors from the passage of cold into the room. The most common type of sealing material is rubber. When using it, the opening will be insulated for a long time, even with frequent opening and closing of the canvas. Such materials can be fixed on any type of door. Rubber material is considered the most wear-resistant even with frequent use of doors.
After the seal has been selected, it is installed in the required place. Actions are performed using an adhesive strip or a harpoon in a groove. by the most fast way is the fixing of rubber material on a self-adhesive surface. At the same time, during operation, some sections of the tape may peel off, the harpoon in the groove is considered the most reliable fastening.
The rubber seal can be nailed with small nails if it is not possible to make other types of fasteners. At the same time, the product securely occupies its position in the doorway, and does not let in a draft.
The main advantages of wooden entrance doors
If there is no desire to independently carry out insulation work, you can purchase a ready-made door. The front door to the house must comply with certain rules.
- The door should serve as protection for the room, so the main characteristics are the strength and reliability of the structure. There are a lot of types of doors on the market, shockproof, armored or with several locks, and protected hinges.
- The door must be insulated, this prevents the exit of warm air from the room without disturbing the comfort inside, and also provides high-quality sound insulation.
- The door must have a beautiful appearance, as it is the main element of the building.
Certainly the most robust design is the door metallic look, it is more durable, and provides complete security of housing from burglary. If the site has reliable protection, in the form of an alarm or a dog, then you can use a beautiful front door wooden type. The front door does not allow warm air to escape from the room, this makes it possible to maintain a certain temperature inside, thus saving on heating. Today the door wooden look can be made of solid wood, this indicates the strength of the material. This design is not inferior to metal in terms of reliability and strength, and the design is more original. You can put a door made of oak, larch, paneled material is considered a simpler design.
At proper insulation door leaf, it is possible to provide reliable protection of the room from the penetration of cold. To perform the work, insulation sheets and sealing tapes are used, which are fixed in the opening. The door of a wooden type is original, and has the appearance of a natural material.
When purchasing entrance doors for a private house, it is necessary to decide a number of questions: price, reliability and. We will consider all the existing options, as well as the pros and cons. We will tell you what you need to pay attention to when buying a door, the main requirements.
Doors should not only protect against penetration, but also delay cold air from the street.
Here an important role is played by the properties of the material itself, as well as design features and methods of insulation. Most often, doors are: - made of metal, - made of PVC profile, -.
More often they buy metal doors or metal-plastic structures, due to their high resistance to fires. But there are a number of problems that should be foreseen in advance:
Many manufacturers cover the outer part of the door with a special composition, it helps to protect the door from external influences and mechanical damage.
The door structure can be steel, and the frame is made of a bent profile (very resistant to burglary), pipes (any non-standard door can be made) or from a corner (lowest price).
Features of thermal insulation
It is possible to use various types of insulation. Sometimes this can be done on your own, but before starting work, carefully read the instructions about the properties of the material and the features of its installation.
The warmest are wooden door panels. But you must remember that they quickly dry out and deform. For such doors, it is often necessary to do preventive maintenance, remove everything and gaps.
Whatever the doors are: metal or wooden, but they have one common feature - this is the goal, between the door leaf and. It is through it that most often cold air enters the house. Outside, tube insulation is usually glued around the entire perimeter. It is sold in strips of various widths. The more clearance you have, the thicker the insulation is bought.
IMPORTANT: The threshold plays an important role in thermal insulation. It should cover the gap under the door well. When installing, also remember that it should not interfere with opening and closing.
Insulation: types and properties
Entrance metal door
Most often, owners purchase metal doors. This is due to the fact that they are practically not subject to mechanical damage and weather conditions, they are not afraid of fire.
When choosing doors, you need to think about the design. The best are steel sheets with a thickness of 1.5 to 2 mm. The thicker - the tougher and stronger.
IMPORTANT: the more stiffeners inside the structure, the better door retains its shape.
Stiffeners are:
- - transverse (elements are arranged horizontally) - resist twisting, because of this it cannot be bent door corners,
- - longitudinal (ribs are arranged vertically) - resist punching or pushing from the box,
- - combined (ribs located both horizontally and vertically) - the best option.
There are doors that are not only covered with a sheet of metal from the outside, but also from the inside. Most often, the elements are fixed by welding.
Armored doors are considered the most reliable. These doors are made using the same technologies as safes. To prevent the door from being pierced by bullets, a concrete solution is poured inside. Also provide special constipation.
If you decide to buy a door, pay attention to the thickness, it should be more than 1.2 mm. Chinese variants are very easy to cut with an ordinary knife.
The box must also be strong and reliable. Choose to become for its manufacture or purchase from 1.3-1.5 cm.
If you decide to put a reinforced door, then the hinges must also be strong. Usually they install ball, safe, ordinary or with a bearing. The number of hinges depends on the size, material, finish of the door itself. The minimum quantity is 3 loops. Ideally, if they are located from the inside.
To place the door to be removed by force, it is provided with pins at the end of the canvas. In this case, even if the hinges are cut off, the door will still remain closed.
Entrance doors can be insulated in several ways:
- Tambour. In addition to the main metal door, they put another door made of any material. The tambour does not allow to freeze because of the temperature difference. This is a very time-consuming process and if the house has already been built, it is almost impossible.
- Door with electric heating. Along all the contours of the canvas, the boxes install the cable. Even in severe frosts, such a device protects against icing and freezing. On such doors you will not notice condensation. With this option, be prepared for higher electricity bills.
- With thermal break. Manufacturers make multilayer from heat-insulating materials. It has the same properties as the cushion of air in the vestibule. Great option, which also saves space in the apartment, but it is quite expensive.
- by the most the easy way is a rig or canopy. This option will not only protect your door, but also give you the opportunity to easily open the door during rain and not get wet. Usually, a porch is laid in the project, on which a family of several people can fit.
FOR REFERENCE: Thermal break is a phenomenon that occurs on materials that have different thermal conductivity. Most often, PVC, expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, isolon with foil are used. These materials do not pass cold air currents. Wherein inner part the door stays warm even at outside temperatures of -25C.
Exterior finish
When choosing a door model, take into account the style of your entrance. In direct contact with the street, choose a material that is not afraid of temperature changes. When upholstering the fabric, make sure that it is not afraid of temperature changes, as well as precipitation.
- I do not recommend using chipboard or PVC boards. These materials are afraid of water and snow.
- If you decide to paint the canvas, then get hammer paint. Most often it is used in harsh climates.
- Vinyl plastic withstands temperatures up to -20 C, if the temperature is lower, the material becomes brittle.
- To add sophistication, you can take ship panels that are resistant to water. Most often these are oak, pine or alder panels.
Wooden entrance doors
If earlier it was believed that wooden doors are the least suitable, then due to technological changes, with the advent of new components, the situation has changed. Consider several options for doors with an "influx".
The first option: for manufacturing they take pine, oak, beech or ash. The thickness of the canvas is from 0.8 to 1 cm. Penoplex or polyurethane foam is used as a filler. Coated with paint or varnish.
Let's consider what an "influx" is - this is an element from the profile that is needed to apply the seal. It fits into the box and closes the gap. Why is it necessary?
- Cold air, water or snow do not penetrate into the gap. No freezing.
- Materials for sealing can be placed at a great distance.
- The light opening does not decrease, as in ordinary doors. These couple of centimeters will be very useful to you if you decide to bring furniture or household appliances of large sizes into the house.
Standard series: different in that the door is first assembled and only then painted. This is usually the cheapest option. In this variant, all adjoining parts and inner surface left without paint.
Baguette 80/100 - there are a couple of differences from the previous series. Baguette frame, which gives solidity, in this version, you can paint all the elements before assembly. The frame is also well attached, you can use hidden fasteners and not damage the varnish layer. You can make a blind door or supplement it with a double-glazed window. A rather expensive option and not all openings can be made a door.
To fix the door, it is best to use the following canopies:
- Screw-in - with a weight of up to 30 kg per loop. After a few foreheads, sagging is possible.
- Overhead - for weights up to 50 kg per loop. Very reliable, but not always aesthetically pleasing.
- Mortise.
pros:
Cons of wooden doors:
- They can be cracked faster than metal ones.
- A wooden door will be lighter.
- Thermal conductivity is 0.15, which is almost 300 times less than that of metal.
Manufacturers
Insulated doors are now produced as Russian manufacturers, as well as foreign ones. most famous company is "Torex". For more than 25 years she has been manufacturing metal doors. It applies innovative technologies, it has many patents and certificates.
Doors with increased strength can be purchased at Elbor. This is a large distribution network that produces durable, environmentally friendly and burglary-resistant doors.
"Medved" manufactures durable, heat-insulating doors. This company employs many highly qualified specialists, as well as a lot of innovative equipment.
The Bostion-S company gives a guarantee to all buyers. Moisture resistant, very safe and with a long service life. The company makes it possible to make unique options for any order.
For more than 20 years "Stal" has been manufacturing metal doors for the lowest purposes. Because of this, they are highly sought after and beautiful to look at.
