Making a universal workbench for the workshop with your own hands. Homemade wooden workbench: description, drawings, photos Drawings with detailing carpentry workbench

Since ancient times, skilled craftsmen have sought to equip workplace as comfortable as possible and, in modern terms, ergonomic, which was considered the key to not only fast and efficient work, but also safety. In this regard, premises intended for repair and handmade, were filled with all kinds of tables, shelves and drawers, the original material for the manufacture of which was wood. Over time, cheaper metal gradually replaced wood from the construction arena and began to be used for the manufacture of machine tools, metal furniture and various auxiliary equipment, especially relevant in a construction workshop. Since the goods offered by stores often do not correspond to the specified characteristics, and sometimes cost the same as industrial equipment, in our article we will share simple tips and we'll tell you how to do it wooden workbench with your own hands.

The main purpose and typical characteristics of the workbench

Regardless of its design features, a workbench is a work table, necessarily characterized by massive dimensions and stability, and intended for processing structures and products with a wide variety of dimensions. Designing carpentry workbench, it is important to remember that the dimensions of the processed products directly depend on the dimensions of the workbench, while it is practiced to process products as manually, and with the use of power tools - drills and electric planes. A typical layout of a standard woodworking bench consists of the following elements:

A work surface made from a solid board with a thickness of at least 60 mm. To make the lid, experts advise giving preference to hard wood, such as oak or beech, using which you will not have to periodically change the working surface of the workbench, which is due to the high wear resistance of the material.
A vice designed for securing workpieces. They are installed on the front surface of the cover. Massive workbenches provide for the installation of several vices, separately designed for fastening small and large parts. Large vices are made of wood, while when choosing a vice of small dimensions, it is better to give preference to metal structures.
Bench supports are designed to improve stability general design, which are connected by longitudinal strips. To make them, it is advisable to use soft wood, linden or pine.
In the space under the workbench, on supports, you can install drawers designed for tools and any other work accessories.

Carpentry workbench: types of design

When developing a workbench project, it is important to take it into account design features, whether it will be installed permanently in the workshop or will be presented as a mobile structure. If you prefer a mobile design, the optimal solution would be to lighten it due to the material used, which should be less thick. The mobile workbench can also be modified with a collapsible table top, as well as folding legs. In connection with the listed features, three types of workbenches are distinguished:

Mobile workbench designed for small repair work and manipulations with wood blanks;
A stationary workbench used for processing massive wood pieces and heavy boards. It is easy to manufacture, but is “tied” to one place;
A collapsible or “transformable workbench” is convenient due to its collapsible design, which facilitates the process of replacing individual parts, and also increases the mobility of the entire structure. You can find out how to make a retractable workbench in specialized guides.

Carpentry or metal workbench: differences

In addition to the classification presented above, workbenches differ in their purpose. There are carpentry and metalworking workbenches. Since creation mechanic's workbench is associated with a number of difficulties, in this guide we will tell you how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands.

Dimensions and location of the workbench

In the process of creating a workbench, it is important to choose the right location. It should be in close proximity to natural light sources, if any. Local light sources will also not be superfluous. We must not forget about electrical sockets, which should also be close to the workbench. All wires located in work area, it is preferable to include corrugated pipe or box

Before starting to build a workbench, experts recommend deciding on its final height. To do this, you need to lower your arms down, after which your palms are parallel to the floor. The distance between the floor and your palms is the very height of the desktop that is most convenient for you. Since homemade workbenches are often designed for a single workplace, the length of the table is 1.5 m and the width is 0.8 m.

How to make a workbench video

How to make a workbench in the garage: selection of materials

The selection of material for the manufacture of a workbench is an important stage of the entire work, which determines the final strength and stability of the structure being constructed. Before you make a carpenter's workbench, let's talk about the rational choice of materials needed for its manufacture. According to experts, the optimal material for constructing a workbench is planed timber, which is suitable for making a frame frame and legs.

Ideal dimensions of planed timber:

for legs - 100x70 mm;
for jumpers - 100x50 mm;

For the tabletop, it is better to choose boards 5 cm thick, or solid canvas, such as old wooden door or chipboard characterized by a laminated surface. It is important to know that it is better to give preference hard rocks woods such as oak, maple and beech.

How to make a workbench table? Sequencing

Making a workbench includes several stages, the most fundamental of which are:

Base assembly;
Installation of countertops;
Installing equipment on a workbench.

Base assembly

Foundation like structural element workbench, represents wooden frame, fastening of which is carried out in such a way that the structure meets all the requirements of rigidity and stability. For these purposes, it is necessary to install a horizontal jumper between the legs of the workbench, and in the middle, along the entire length of the structure, it is important to install a frame. Both the lintels and the drawer are fixed at a distance of 40-50 cm from the floor. Subsequently, they can be used not only to strengthen the structure, but also to install shelves and drawers for improvised tools. When constructing the base, the beams are secured using a tongue-and-groove connection, and in those places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. It is preferable to first prepare the grooves and tenons, according to the existing drawing, and only then glue the joints of the beams with wood glue.

If you're building a permanent workbench, one or more pieces of the frame can be attached to the wall, adding even more strength to the final structure.

Making a countertop and installing it

When thinking through the stages of making a tabletop, we must not forget that it should be slightly larger than the base. From previously prepared thick boards, a massive shield of the previously indicated dimensions is knocked together, for fastening which long nails are used, driven into the inside of the boards. The boards used are pre-fitted to each other to prevent debris from getting into the existing cracks. For the installation of the countertop, the use of materials for the manufacture of which pressed chips were used is excluded, since they do not meet the requirements for its stability. Several transverse bars are nailed to the tabletop, for which it is necessary to provide grooves in the base. Horizontally oriented slats, which are needed for sliding the drawers, are attached to these jumpers using self-tapping screws.

The tabletop is attached to the base with bolts. To do this, a recess is made in the upper part of the base bars using a chisel, and holes are drilled in the tabletop for bolts, the heads of which are recessed into the lid by drilling recesses of the appropriate diameter in the tabletop. In order to avoid injury from falling wood chips during subsequent work, the tabletop is sanded several times and coated with drying oil.

Equipment installation

TO installed countertop attach a vice, for installation of which recesses should be provided in the end of the tabletop. In the place where the vice is installed, plywood is attached to the underside of the tabletop. When installing a vice, first lay it down, mark where it will be attached, and then secure it with nuts and bolts. Remember that the vise should not be positioned on the edge, which will cause gravity to shift as you work.

In addition to the vice, the classic equipment for the workbench are wooden clamps, a high-power stationary drill, and certain varieties turning equipment, milling element. In a dacha setting, it will also be useful to install an angle grinder and a circular saw. When installing equipment on a workbench, it is important to think through all the details of convenience and safety, and also check the strength of all fasteners. If the equipment operates from electrical network, it is important to correctly calculate the power of simultaneously connected equipment, as well as correctly carry out the connection itself.

How to design and make a universal workbench?

This article did not examine in detail the process of making a metal workbench, and also does not explain how to make an iron workbench due to the complexity of this process, however, we consider it necessary to consider an option that involves combining metalwork and carpentry workbenches, which is especially important in conditions country houses and plots.

To do this, make the same workbench as given in the instructions, but slightly increase the working surface area. Sometimes this may require strengthening the base through the use of additional frame elements. When the tabletop is installed, one half is covered with a sheet of thin of stainless steel, which is secured with self-tapping screws. IN ideal cover not only the upper part of the tabletop, but also its end elements.

Working area for home handyman, of course, can be purchased at a specialty store. But such a place will not be imbued with authenticity and individuality, and will not convey the character and mood of the owner. That’s why we suggest you make a carpentry workbench with your own hands. It is also called plumbing or universal. Get ready, the process is not quick. It is important to choose the right materials, calculate the dimensions, and perform accurate assembly.

However, we note in advance that even if you create your own carpentry workbench, you are unlikely to be able to make luxurious solid wood furniture on it, especially with an antique effect. Therefore, if you need such pieces of furniture, we advise you to look at the page http://derevmaster.ru/starinnaya-mebel of the website owned by Ruslan Koryshko’s Workshop. They have been manufacturing various products here for many years. wooden products for home and garden.

A carpenter or mechanic processes small objects from 1 centimeter and large ones that reach a length of 3 meters. It is inconvenient to tinker with such units “on your knees”; the quality of such work is unlikely to be worthy. Therefore, before starting work, any self-respecting carpenter or mechanic will prepare a workplace.

Structurally, it is a table with shelves and drawers for tools. A vice is usually placed on the table, which helps to fix the object for further processing.

In appearance, you can make a metalworker's (carpenter's) table with your own hands:

mobile. It is easy to move and does not take up much space. But it is not intended for storing tools; the working area is small;

A mobile workbench takes up little space, but is inconvenient to use

stationary. Installed in workshops, garages, specially equipped rooms. Made from steel or wood. Cannot be moved or disassembled. Plenty of space for storing tools, a wide working area;
modular. Assembled from several parts. It can be made higher or lower, narrower or wider, shorter or longer at the request of the owner. Takes up a lot of space. Inconvenient to use, according to professionals.

If you need a metalworker's (carpenter's) table for regular work within one room, then the best choice– stationary design. It consists of the following parts:

support. These are, in fact, vertical and horizontal bars that hold the tabletop and equipment;

The support of the workbench must be reliable to support the weight of the tabletop and tools

work area (table top) or workbench board. There are grooves and notches on it. They are needed to fix the item that will be processed. The tabletop is massive, strong, reliable;
vice, box. They press the object to the surface, which makes work easier. The optimal number of vices on one table is two;
shelves. Serve for storing equipment.

The following video will tell you about the variety of workbenches:

What will be useful?

It’s easier at home (to assemble a metal structure you will need welding machine and skills) to assemble a structure from wood - beech, hornbeam or oak. They are considered the most durable and wear-resistant.

Expensive material (from 3 thousand rubles per linear meter) needed for a table top. Savings in this case will lead to annual (or more frequent) replacement of the surface.

Oak, hornbeam or beech are used for up to 10 years. Pine or linden is used for support.

It is better to make the tabletop from beech, hornbeam, oak. These are the most stable and wear-resistant materials

In order to assemble a mechanic with your own hands, you will need:

plywood 2 centimeters thick, measuring 2.5 by 1.5 meters. The smoother the sheet, the more attractive the working area looks;
solid wood 5-6 centimeters thick, 1.5 meters long, 0.75 meters wide;
4 beams 1 meter high, 10 centimeters wide, 10 centimeters long;
8 bars 70 centimeters high, 6 centimeters wide, 6 centimeters long;
two-meter board for shelves.

Equipment:

drill;
saw;
clamps;
quick-drying glue;
level;
bolts and nuts;
self-tapping screws;
square

In some cases, a tarlap may be useful. This indispensable tool to hold objects.

Manufacturing stages

Paradoxically, in order to make a simple carpenter's table do it yourself, no drawings required. We make a folding universal workbench with our own hands step by step:

Let's assemble the table. The plywood sheet needs to be divided into 2 parts. The dimensions of each of them will be 1.25 by 0.75 meters. This is the base of the table. Now the 2 parts are connected to each other using superglue. One is placed on top of the other, with glue between them. This strengthens the surface. Plywood is a rather fragile material, which is why it is laid in two and sometimes even three layers. To prevent the parts from moving before they are fixed in one place, a load weighing about 30 kilograms is placed on them. For additional fixation, the sheets are fastened with clamps; they are removed one day after fastening the plywood.
The plywood base is laid on a wooden base. Thus, the array is protected from negative influences various instruments and strengthen it. Sometimes (this is not necessary) pieces of plywood are also glued along the perimeter of the array. Their thickness is equal to the thickness of the array plus the plywood base.
Let's assemble the base (bed). 4 beams 1 x 0.1 x 0.1 meters are vertical legs. 8 beams with dimensions of 0.7 x 0.06 x 0.06 meters will serve as the lower and upper tie between the legs (it is necessary for the stability of the structure). The area where the screed and the leg are connected to each other with self-tapping screws or bolts (at the discretion of the master) must be treated with super glue.
A tabletop is installed on the frame. The parts are fastened together with self-tapping screws, the seams are reinforced with superglue and bolts and nuts.
A board is placed on the lower screeds, which is adjusted to size; the same is done with the upper screed; you get two spacious shelves where it is convenient to store tools. The board is secured to the ties with self-tapping screws. The metalworker's (carpenter's) table is ready.

This is the simplest metal workbench; the dimensions can be changed according to the needs of a particular craftsman. A vice is placed on the surface. They are secured using self-tapping screws or bolts. Do-it-yourself carpenter's vices for a workbench are made from the following parts:

support;
moving part;
metal guides;
running screw;
knobs for rotation.

But it’s still easier to purchase a vice in a specialized store. In order to turn parts, you need time, expensive equipment and professional skills.

In order to make a complex workbench with your own hands, you will definitely need drawings. What to consider when drawing a drawing of a mechanic's workbench with your own hands:

compartments that will be located in the table cabinet;
sockets for placing stops that hold long objects;
additional vice;
table installation location.

Examples of drawings:

Drawing of a workbench with tool storage area

Drawing of the simplest workbench

Operating rules

Any carpentry (mechanism) workbench will last a long time if you follow following rules its uses:

keep away from moisture. Wood quickly absorbs liquid, swells and cracks;
The table must be varnished before commissioning. At least the simplest one. Price per can of varnish in hardware store– from 200 rubles. The varnish will increase the service life of the workbench by 2-3 times;
regularly clean from dirt;
put tools back after use;
wipe up spilled chemical liquids and oil to prevent premature wear of the countertop;
if the table is stationary, then it should be in one place. It is not advisable to constantly move it; the support will quickly become loose.

Finally

The main thing is correctly calculated dimensions. If you make a bench with your own hands, the drawings are drawn up only in strict accordance with the dimensions. It is important that the table is not too low or high, narrow or wide. It must suit the parameters of a specific user.

Think about high-quality lighting. Great option in this case, fluorescent lamps.

You can also learn how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands from the following video:

Every home craftsman can make a carpentry workbench with his own hands. This work takes a lot of time, but the benefits from a well-equipped workplace outweigh both labor costs and investments in building materials. In this article you will find complete information on the independent construction of workbenches for carpentry work.

Carpentry workbench – workplace optimization

Convenient working surface will be useful to any master. And a carpenter needs an equipped work area more than other specialists. After all, he will have to tinker with large-sized workpieces, the length of which reaches 3 meters, and in this case he cannot do without a well-designed work area. Even a simplified folding workbench allows you to process timber or boards and assemble products from the resulting blanks. A large table top with stops makes it possible to fix the lumber in any position, processing not only the surfaces, but also the edges of the timber or board. A special vice will help secure workpieces during sawing, drilling or connecting several elements.

In addition, in the drawers and shelves of the workbench you can store parts of future products, tools and all sorts of household items. Moreover, not only a wooden carpentry version, but also a metal workbench assembled on the basis of steel corners can be turned into convenient storage. At the same time, a craftsman who is not too familiar with construction can make a carpentry workbench with his own hands, organizing and optimizing the space in the workroom. To do this you will need general drawings or an understanding of the workbench structure, Construction Materials And step-by-step instruction for assembly. You will find all this below in the text.

Types and design of workbenches for carpenters

In modern carpentry, only three workbench designs are used. Firstly, the mobile option - portable design, which can even be installed on the balcony. This model will also be useful for those craftsmen who want to get a universal workbench for metalwork and carpentry work. The main advantage of this option is small sizes, the main disadvantage is the small storage area. You can’t put all the tools in such a table.

Secondly, a stationary workbench is an option for a full-fledged workshop. To place this model you need a spacious room, but it will fit into large garage. This workbench can be either wooden or steel - it is possible to assemble any structure, because there is no need to move it. The main advantage of the model is its wide functionality, coupled with ample storage space. The main disadvantage is the dimensions and the need for a large volume of building materials.

Third, modular design– workbenches of this type occupy an intermediate position between stationary and mobile options. The model structure allows you to extend and shorten the carpentry table, legs and other elements. Therefore the main advantage this option– a combination of optimal dimensions and functionality. And the main disadvantage is the complicated design. Build modular metal workbench It’s not so easy to do it yourself, and you may have problems with wood.

As a result, the optimal model for self-construction the stationary option should be recognized, since the mobile one does not provide all the benefits, and the modular one is too complicated during assembly. Moreover, regardless of belonging to one of the varieties, any workbench contains the following structural elements:

Support (bed, frame) - a system of vertical and horizontal beams that hold the tabletop, workpieces and tools.
Working surface (tabletop) - in the language of professionals, this element is called a workbench board. All the necessary grooves and recesses for stops are made in it, which are useful for fixing the workpieces being processed. Therefore, such a board must be massive and reliable.
The front vise and box are essentially huge clamping blocks that compete with clamps. They fix the workpieces at an angle to the plane of the work table, pressing them against the side edges of the table top. Moreover, a folding workbench has only one vice, while a stationary one has at least a couple of clamping blocks.
Shelves are storage places that are located under the countertop.

And all these parts, with the exception of some metal clamping block parts (screws and nuts), are assembled from wood, which simplifies the selection of structural materials for building a workbench.

What materials are needed for assembly - getting ready for work

You can build a carpentry or plumbing workbench with your own hands only if you get the following materials:

Plywood sheet with a thickness of 18-20 millimeters and total dimensions of 2.5 × 1.25 meters. Moreover, try to choose a perfectly flat sheet, without bubbles or dips on the surface - it will go on the countertop.
Beam 10×10 and 6×6 centimeters. The frame will be assembled from these elements, therefore, we need about 4 meters of “ten” (for the legs and crossbars) and at least three meters of “six” (for the strengthening elements). At the same time, try to choose timber without knots and cracks.
Boards 2 meters long - they will come in handy when assembling the tabletop. And upon completion of them you can.

In addition, we will need the following tools: a drill with feather and ordinary drills, circular saw (circular), clamps, glue Moment(for wood), square, level, bolts with nuts and furniture screws with corrosion protection. After all these materials and tools have been purchased and taken to the place of placement and assembly, you can build a workbench out of wood with your own hands, based on our step-by-step instructions.

DIY assembly - step-by-step instructions

Before you do it, try to read these instructions from beginning to end, going over in your head all the assembly steps described below. If you understand the entire procedure, then self-production workbench will take up a minimum of your personal time. Moreover, our step-by-step instructions are designed for people with minimal experience in carpentry. Well, the assembly process itself looks like this.

At the first stage we assemble the table. For this plywood sheet shorten to 1.52 meters circular saw and divide into two parts. As a result, two blanks with dimensions of 1.52 × 0.61 meters remain in the hands of the master. They will serve as the basis for the countertop. And the remaining part 0.98 × 1.25 will be useful to us in the future. The next stage is gluing the solid workbench table from two plywood blanks. To do this, you need to lubricate their surfaces with glue and, folding the plywood boards, tighten them with clamps, and you can put a 30-kilogram weight on the central part. Moreover, three 1.5-meter boards need to be placed under the clamps, ensuring a tight fit when placed along the long edge of the sheet.

In addition, you need to take into account the fact that when gluing, the plywood sheets must be connected with their convex sides (when overlapping each other), otherwise the entire array will unfold into an arc, which is undesirable. Next we move on to strengthening the 36mm laminated wood. To do this, we need to cut strips 15 centimeters wide from the remains of the plywood panel and glue them around the perimeter, with reverse side countertops. The result should be a table 54 millimeters thick, consisting of three 18 mm layers of plywood. Moreover, the amplifier strips will play the role of stiffeners.

After this, we cut the array to dimensions of 1.5 × 0.6 meters. This step will allow you to trim the ends, eliminating overlays and protrusions that formed during the assembly of the tabletop from three layers of plywood. The trimming itself is carried out with a circular saw at low tool feed. The circular saw must be moved very slowly along the plywood, otherwise you will get torn edges. The next stage is the assembly of the vertical elements of the frame. To do this, we saw a 10×10 centimeter beam into four 0.9 meter long sections. We get vertical supports. And as the legs (the lower tie between the vertical beams) and the drawer (the upper tie) we will use a 6x6 centimeter beam, cutting out the corresponding grooves in the legs. The places where the legs and drawers are attached should be coated with glue and reinforced with bolts or self-tapping screws.

Next, we must install vertical supports at the location of the workbench and assemble the entire frame, tightening them with horizontal longitudinal ties. They can be made from 6x6 cm timber, secured in a tenon or overlap, with bolts or self-tapping screws.

We will lay shelves made of 1.5-meter boards on the lower screeds, and a tabletop on the upper ones. Therefore, before attaching the ties, we must trace the vertical and horizontal of the assembled frame. Otherwise, the table will be tilted. The tabletop is fastened to the frame using 8 mm self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be recessed into the holes drilled feather drill. Before fastening, the table is pulled to the upper longitudinal ties and drawers with clamps.

This completes the assembly of the table, and we can move on to installing the vice. Moreover, not everyone can make a carpenter's vice for a workbench with their own hands. Therefore, we suggest that beginners pay attention to ready-made models, the installation of which occurs in the following sequence: we screw the fixed jaw of the vice to the end of the table, and fasten the threaded element to it. We pass two threaded guides through the holes in the movable jaw and screw them into the fixed jaw. We insert handles into the heads of the guides, by rotating them you can move the moving part of the vice towards the stationary one.

After completing the installation stage of the vice, you can use the workbench at your discretion. Moreover, round or rectangular holes for stops can be cut in the tabletop as needed, placing them as you see fit.

The general principle of the development of materials processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make parts for more precise ones using inaccurate equipment. And it all started with a workbench; prototypes of it are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but will also simplify, facilitate the work and improve its results.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make themselves workbenches on which, figuratively speaking, you can smash a tank with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repeating industrial prototypes in a design for your own use, designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years or more, is one of the typical mistakes in developing workbenches of your own design.

The second is neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “game” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations have a particularly strong effect on workbenches on a metal frame.

The third - repeat carpentry or metal workbenches; perhaps with some modifications to suit your needs. Meanwhile, there are many designs of workbenches for home/amateur work of various types. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, conversely, universal, temporary, made from scrap materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper, in accordance with the range of needs and/or hobbies of the craftsman. Secondly, how to make a workbench general purpose or universal for special conditions use - in a cramped garage, for carpentry at a construction site from scrap rubbish, at home for small precision work, for children.

About universal workbenches

Among the branded products, which are sometimes quite expensive, you can find “universal” workbenches in the form of a carpenter’s bench with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vice on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for their installation, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” factory-made workbench

This is a wrong decision not only because wooden table top carpentry work deteriorates. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. Wood soaked in them becomes much more flammable. Self-ignition is also possible; Remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oily rags in production. Approach to designing a tabletop (boards, lids) universal workbench another one is needed based on the type of work it is primarily used for - fine or coarse, see below.

Work bench

In the West, amateur/home workbenches with a stacked table top framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a “work bench” are shown in Fig. Under the fitter, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pad.

The bench workbench dampens vibrations well; It can be made from pine or spruce. But the design is complex, and it is inconvenient to work with long materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then a garage and a mechanic's workbench. Next, we will try to combine them into a universal workbench and see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

Workbench composition

A workbench of “our” type (conditionally, since it is impossible to accurately establish its origin) consists of:

A bench (in carpentry workbenches), or a bed (in metalworking benches), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
An apron on which the tool is hung. An apron is not a necessary accessory for a workbench; it can hang on the wall or be replaced with a cabinet, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the installation location and type of work within the range of 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

The lid and shelf are most often made at the same time, one-piece, and are simply called a lid, a workbench board or a tabletop. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on a base (bed, substrate) made of wood. In a metalworking workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and the ingress of technical fluids. In a carpentry workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, twists, etc. defects) solid fine-grained wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) also serves as a shelf; in a workbench for the home, for the sake of simplifying it, without sacrificing quality, it is possible to have 2 -layer construction, see below.

The traditional design of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the carpentry shelf. This comes from the master craftsmen of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed/bench that you should start developing your workbench, no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

A stationary wooden workbench has advantages over one on a steel frame not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. Workbench on wooden base can be broken, but if the wood used is seasoned and impregnated, it will never bend. Secondly, wood perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops in a factory? And the overall strength and stability of the frame home workbench Coniferous industrial wood of ordinary quality will fully provide.

The design of a wooden workbench frame made from 120x40 boards is shown on the left in Fig. Permissible static load – 150 kgf; dynamic vertically downward for 1 s – 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on 6x70 self-tapping screws in a zigzag (snake) pattern with a distance from the edge of 30 mm and a pitch of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; the snakes on both sides of the package are made in mirror image. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel angles on self-tapping screws; the edge ones - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the tenons of the posts and, on the outside, with corners.

If timber 150x50 or (180...200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in Fig. The load-bearing capacity will increase to 200/750 kgf. And from timber 150x150, 150x75 and (180...200)x60 you can build a frame capable of bearing 450 kgf in statics and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: Any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and metalworking workbenches. Under the joinery, a box-shaped lid is placed on it (see below), and under the fitter, a tray from a 60x60x4 angle with welded 4-mm strips above the intermediate beams is placed. A wooden cushion is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

All wood workbench, no need for welding work to make it, you can do it according to the following pattern. rice. The “trick” here is the tabletop, glued together from 75x50 lumber and fastened with ties. If the timber is oak, then permissible load– 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts – timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

It happens the other way around: metal is more accessible than wood, and welding is available. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in Fig. Materials – corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Boxes are made of galvanized steel. Disadvantage - it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs; the structure will lose its ability to bear dynamic loads.

For a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench according to the diagram at the top right, made of corrugated pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3, is suitable. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120...150)x40.

Shelf – steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x(30...35) self-tapping screws, a pair at each edge of each board, and along the outer boards - in increments of (60...70) mm. Only in this design will the workbench show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: the lid is turned over under the joinery wooden side up or adjust as described below. A bench vise is mounted on a wooden pad, but is not secured with a clamp. A collet anchor for an M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice pad from below, and a through hole is drilled in the cover for it. A 60x2 washer is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vices.

For carpentry

The cover of a carpenter's workbench, unlike a metalworker's one, is tightly attached to the bench and is box-shaped for overall rigidity. The best option fastenings for a non-dismountable workbench - steel angles and self-tapping screws. The underbench can also be a steel frame from those described above.

How a traditional carpentry workbench works is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it on pos. B. The bench board (in this case it is a separate device) is used to work with long pieces. The support in its groove is made from a wedged piece of board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and secure it into the sockets with bolts with conical heads. The traditional design of a carpentry bench is shown in pos. G, but – see above.

It is possible to reduce the cost of the carpentry workbench cover by making it 2-layer, pos. Q. Then high-quality hardwood boards will only be needed for the shelf. They lay it by laying the boards with “humps” of annual layers, alternately up and down, to avoid warping. The shelf flooring is first glued together with PVA or carpentry glue, tightly compressed with a clamp or wrapped with a cord; put on the pillow using the same glue. The lid skirt is assembled separately using glue and through tenons (inset in pos. B) and attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Carpentry vice

Solid wood carpenter's vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some comments are necessary here.

First, you need to place 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the cushion (wood 4x4x1 cm). Secondly, if the nut is not custom-made or purchased, then at least temporarily acquire a set of taps for the thread you are using. In this case, do not try to use a screw that is too thick for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is quite enough.

The nut of a homemade clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to recess it into the clamp pad, this way there is less chance that the nut will break off when clamped. But welding will cause the thread to go ugly; you can’t get rid of it with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be passed with taps according to the complete pattern, as when cutting: first tap - second - third (if included in the kit).

Note: The nut welded to the base must be allowed to rest for 2 hours before passing the thread so that the residual deformations “settle down.”

Vise and joinery for mechanics

The vice on the bench is installed in the corner (see inset in the figure) so that as much as possible most of dynamic loads during metal processing fell vertically on the corner post. Location cross beams and intermediate vertical posts of a workbench with a stationary vice, it is advisable to make them slightly asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with the vice. The vice is also installed starting from the corner:

A collet anchor is driven into a wooden corner post under an installation bolt, and a tall nut or threaded bushing is welded into a metal one (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
If the fastening unit is welded, the threads are threaded with taps, as in a homemade nut in a carpentry vice, see above;
Place the vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark the holes for fastening points 2, 3 and 4;
The vice is removed and drilled through holes 2, 3 and 4;
Place a vice on bolts 1, 2 and 3;
For fastening to bolt 4, place a jib U from wooden beam from 60x60 or professional pipes from 40x40. It is not necessary to secure the jib, but it must rest from the bottom against the upper frame (frame) of the bed, but not against the table top!
Finally attach the vice to bolt 4.

Note: Stationary power tools are also secured in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

A workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the lower surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; plugs from plastic bottles, they endure a tight fit many times.

Workbench for garage

It is impossible to make a workbench in a garage with an optimal width for the ergonomics of the workspace - the dimensions of a standard box of 4x7 m with a car parked in it do not allow it. Long ago, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined to be 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and it is more or less possible to work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor removed for rebuilding) turns out to be unstable, so it is attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall workbench“rings back” stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

A diagram of the structure of one section of a garage workbench is shown in Fig. This design uses an ingenious method of additional vibration damping: cells of the lid frames and the bottom shelf of the edge farthest from the corner different sizes. The installation accuracy of the crossbars is +/– 1 cm. For the same purpose, the lid and bottom shelf are made of L Chipboard thickness 32 mm and covered with linoleum instead of steel. Its durability is sufficient for garage work; can be easily replaced.

Fastening to walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Recess into a stone wall is 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the self-tapping screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already wall-mounted, and the wall-mounted one is on the left in Fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood is 10-12 mm. Opening for the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling machine” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the shavings fall directly onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench cabinet with a lifting tabletop in it, on the right in the figure; it will fit in the house for fine workmanship(electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on cardboard. To fold, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, perhaps a folding workbench box would be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box

Home station wagon

At home they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, model making, watchmaking, artistic sawing from plywood, etc. For small, delicate work, a universal workbench is suitable, drawings of which and its accessories are given in Fig. The durability of the working surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the tabletop is covered with linoleum. The bench vise for this workbench needs to be small, with a screw clamp fastening.

More about plywood

In general, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because... she calls back well. If the board cushion of the bench is made from plywood, then to its underside you need to glue a frame (frame) also made of plywood to its underside, see fig. Then it is advisable to first cover the upper (working side) with linoleum without a lining, and then lay the steel on it.

The younger shift

Another case when making a workbench board from plywood is justified is a student workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not beat him too much in vain, but work carefully. For the same purpose, masters of the past deliberately gave their students bad instruments.

Workbenches for the dacha

When country house or other lung wooden structure It’s still just under construction, there’s no time for bench-widths, you need at least something on which you can carry out simple carpentry work. For such a case, you can whip up a carpentry workbench for a summer house from scrap materials, on the left in Fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we make good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on arranging the dacha, a mini-workbench will be useful, on the right in Fig. With minimal material consumption and an extremely simple design, it is sufficiently stable for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, because the middle of the bench board is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will be foldable and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed along with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a dacha inhabited permanently or all summer, with a craftsman owner, by the way, you will need a more complex but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.

This woodworking bench has a sturdy frame, a durable work surface and plenty of storage compartments. convenient storage tools and devices. You will make the main structure with your own hands in two days, and you will add various useful additions gradually.

Tools for work

To process solid wood and sheet materials you will need the following tools:

Hacksaw.
Electric planer.
Circular saw.
Grinder machine.
Drill and drill bits.
Clamps.
Screwdriver.
Pencil.
Square.
Roulette.
Brush.

Carpentry workbench frame

Take even pine boards without large knots with a cross-section of 50x150 mm. Dry the raw lumber: the lower the moisture content of the boards, the less likely the structure will warp. The carpentry workbench in question is designed for comfortable work masters with a height of 170–180 cm. To change the height of the structure, make the legs higher or lower.

Table 1 - list of frame parts

Name	Finish dimensions, mm	Material	Quantity
Name		Material	Quantity
Leg detail
Lower spacer
Upper spacer
Cross leg
Cover cross member
Longitudinal leg
Longitudinal drawer
Bottom shelf
Table top spacer

All elements of the base of the carpentry workbench are paired, so mark two parts of the same length on a 150 mm wide board at once.

Saw all the wooden pieces to length, with the exception of the spacers: it’s easier to cut the short ones already planed, and the long ones should be sawed off later “in place.”

Measure the width of the board, subtract the thickness of your circular saw blade and divide the result in half. Set the calculated size on the measuring scale and make sure that the saw blade is perpendicular. Unfold the boards exactly in the middle.

Plan and process parts sandpaper medium grit.

File the bottom spacers and sand the ends. After cleaning the surfaces from dust, apply glue to the small leg and to the end of the leg.

Squeeze the parts together with a clamp, wipe off the squeezed out glue and drill holes with a countersink drill.

Fasten the workpieces with 6.0x70 screws. Prepare the remaining legs of the woodworking bench frame.

Bevel the bottom ends to reduce the likelihood of the wood splitting when the workbench moves.

Prepare the joints connecting the legs with the longitudinal legs for gluing. Fasten the parts with screws, setting a right angle.

Screw all four legs into place.

Place the frame halves and longitudinal drawers on the floor, measure the length of the upper spacers.

File the parts and secure them with glue and screws.

Collect at flat surface top frame of a carpentry workbench. Fasten the bars with wood glue and 6.0x80 mm screws, drilling guide holes for them.

Collect bottom trim workbench, I use clamps and auxiliary boards for convenience.

Replace the top frame and level the entire structure. Connect the frame parts with screws.

Cut from sheet material 16 mm thick bottom shelf and secure it to the bars

Workbench table top for carpentry work

Use sheets of MDF, chipboard or plywood 16–20 mm thick for the workbench cover. Glue the slabs in two layers and get a tabletop 32–40 mm thick.

Drawing and arrangement of the workbench cover: 1 – edge strips (birch, maple); 2 – working surface (hard fiberboard); 3 – load-bearing board (chipboard, plywood or MDF).

For the countertop you can take chipboard sheets left over from unnecessary furniture. For example, the walls of a wardrobe will do. Take them as a base and add small pieces so that the carpentry workbench lid measures 670x1940 mm.

Place narrow slabs toward the back wall and toward the center of the workbench. Place large sheets in top layer countertops. Glue the cut pieces together.

Fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws, deepening them into the countersunk holes. Trim the edges with a hand-held circular saw 20mm from the edge.

Align the tabletop with the frame and secure with screws.

Sharpen slats for edge trims. Saw off the 45° bevels and cut the planks to length. Place a piece of fiberboard on the lid of the workbench, add a flat panel on top and secure it all with clamps.

This makes it easier to attach the pads. Align the ends with the edges of the tabletop and press the rail against the panel - the top plane will be flush with the workbench lid. Holding the bar with one hand, drill pilot holes and secure the parts with screws.

Move the device to the other side and install the remaining pads. Sand the slats with a sander.

Drill a hole in the corner of the slab so that the fiberboard can be easily pushed out of its recess when replacing it.

Clean the surfaces from dust and cover the wooden parts of the frame with stain. Place the fiberboard in the recess of the lid. If you are using pieces of material, secure them with double-sided tape. Place a carpenter's vice on your workbench.

Boxes for storing tools in a carpentry table

When filling the space under the carpenter's workbench lid, use modular principle. It’s easier to make individual blocks and more convenient to change them later when you need space for a new tool. There will be a certain waste of material, but the weight of the workbench will increase and its stability will be enough to work with power tools.

Scheme of organization of storage places: 1 – box full extension; 2 – spacious plywood box; 3 – chipboard container; 4 – wide box; 5 – compartment for portable tool box; 6 – space for cases and workpieces.

Use boxes from old furniture

Select suitable sized junk boxes desk or chest of drawers.

Sign wooden elements and carefully separate them. Clean the glue from the spikes and eyes.

Trim the planks to width, removing worn corners and cracked grooves. If the original bottom of the box is flimsy, prepare thicker plywood or fiberboard. Make new grooves on a circular saw.

Assemble the box “dry”, adjust the parts if necessary. Clean the surfaces and glue the structure. Use mounting angles to accurately assemble right angles.

Once the glue has dried, sand the corners and sides of the box, securing it in place for ease of work.

Prepare guide strips and calculate the dimensions of the module.

Calculation of a block for three drawers

File the bottom, top and side panels. Screw the guide rails with screws.

Assemble the panels into a module and test the movement of the drawers. Place the block inside the workbench with supports underneath it.

Drill pilot holes, countersink and tighten the screws. Attach the chipboard to the top beams and to the legs of the workbench.

Install front covers on the drawers. Having marked the location of the housing, secure it with one screw. Insert the drawer into place and adjust the position of the panel. Carefully remove the drawer and tighten the remaining screws.

Secure the remaining linings - the module with wide drawers is ready.

Carpentry table compartment for portable box

The middle module is made to the full height of the bench to enhance the rigidity of the carpentry workbench. For the body, take 16 mm thick chipboard and cut out two sides, a bottom and a lid.

Middle module housing: 1 – frame diagram; 2 – side wall; 3 – lower and upper panels.

Attach the guide strips to the sides, assemble the frame with screws and install it close to the right block.

Prepare the parts for the drawer.

Drawings of box elements: 1 – long wall; 2 – short wall; 3 – bottom; 4 – front pad; 5 – rail.

Use a circular saw to select grooves in the walls, which can be done with a regular disk. Set the cutting depth to 6 mm and the width to 8 mm. Run all four parts through. Slide longitudinal stop saw blade to 2 mm and make a test cut. Check the groove and adjust the stop if necessary. Run the rest of the workpieces.

Assemble the module and install the rails underneath that protect chipboard edges from chipping and providing a smoother ride.

Secure the front panel with screws and place the drawer in place.

How to make modules with convenient drawers

The design of the housings of these modules is identical to the previous designs. The retractable container placed on roller guides is made taking into account the installation gap, so its width will be smaller internal size housings by 26 mm (for common guides with a thickness of 12 mm).

Module structure and box parts: 1 – assembly diagram; 2 – back and front walls; 3 – front panel; 4 – bottom; 5 – side walls.

Before assembling the housing, attach the limiting bars to the sides. wooden slats and metal guides.

Installation diagram of guides on the walls of the housing.

Secure the finished module under the workbench lid.

To install the drawer rails, unclip the latches and pull out the small rails.

Fasten the parts to the walls. Determine the required distance from the edge to the guide yourself based on the specific design and the 10 mm gap between the wall of the box and the top panel of the frame.