Proper pruning shapes the bush in such a way that each branch has enough light and air for normal fruiting. Autumn pruning frees the bush from fruit-bearing shoots and relieves the plant of the need to feed them during the dormant period. However, if for some reason you were unable to prune in October or November, reschedule it for late winter or early spring - from late January to early April, when the snow has melted and the air temperature has risen to at least -8 ºC, will remain at this level for several days. Avoid pruning in cooler temperatures or on a day when it is snowing or raining, and try to complete the process by the time the bushes begin to bud.
Sanitary pruning is carried out when the need arises, regardless of the time of year.
Pruning berry bushes in winter
Contrary to the claims of many gardeners, pruning in February, if done in necessary conditions and in compliance with the rules developed for this procedure, does not lead to negative consequences, just like pruning in March. As you know, the beginning of sap flow accelerates the healing of wounds and cuts, especially since at this time there are no leaves or flowers on the bushes, and all the plants’ energy goes into healing the damage caused by pruning. There is practically no other work in the garden in winter, so why not relieve yourself of a busy spring schedule, by pruning trees and shrubs at the end of winter?
Wait for the desired temperature and snow melting, since in some cases you need to trim the branches of the bush to the very surface of the soil, and proceed to sanitary pruning: remove frozen, mutilated, broken, dried branches, diseased and pest-affected branches, as well as tops and shoots from the bushes. The shoots are removed at the root, and when pruning mature branches, stumps must be left to prevent the tissue from freezing at the cut site. These stumps can be removed in the spring. Bushes are trimmed with pruning shears and a garden saw.
Pruning fruit bushes in spring
In addition to sanitary pruning, which maintains the health of the bush, formative or rejuvenating pruning may be necessary. Best time pruning that forms the bush - autumn, but you can do this work in the spring, just before the start of sap flow. Each species has its own plant formation scheme, and we will briefly remind you how to prune berry bushes, the most popular in amateur gardening.
Pruning raspberries in spring
Raspberry varieties that bear fruit once per season are pruned as follows:
- two-year-old branches that will no longer bear fruit are cut to the ground;
- Of the annual shoots, 10-12 of the most developed ones are left, the rest are removed;
- all weak shoots are cut out;
- the tops of the shoots remaining after pruning are shortened to 2.2-2.5 m, and if the bush is not tall, then the tops are cut by 10-15 cm.
Remontant raspberry bushes are cut off completely at the root, and it is better to do this in the fall.
Pruning black currants in spring
Pruning blackcurrant branches is somewhat more difficult than pruning raspberries, since the bush consists of branches different ages, and each branch can actively bear fruit for up to five years. Blackcurrants are trimmed according to this pattern:
- the number of old branches cut out annually should be equal to the number of new branches left from the basal shoots: 3-5 old branches are cut out, they should be replaced by 3-5 new branches;
- Every year it is necessary to cut out those branches whose age has reached five years;
- When removing old and unnecessary new branches, make sure that the remaining branches do not interfere with each other, do not cross, do not lie on the ground and are conveniently located.
Pruning red and white currants in spring
Red currant branches can bear fruit for 7-8 years, but the main harvest is formed on branches aged from 2 to 5 years. It is necessary to ensure that on a bush formed from 12-15 branches there are branches of different ages, otherwise a year may come when all the branches will have to be cut out. Of the new shoots, 3-4 of the most developed ones are left annually to replace the removed seven-year-old branches.
Pruning gooseberries in autumn
Gooseberry bushes are formed in almost the same way as currant bushes: the bush should have 15-20 branches of different ages. The main harvest comes from branches aged from four to seven years, so mainly those shoots that have reached the age of seven, as well as weak and extra shoots of the first year, are cut out. Do not shorten those annual shoots that you decide to leave - this will reduce the yield of the bush.
Pruning honeysuckle in spring
Of all garden shrubs honeysuckle is the most light-loving, and therefore it needs mandatory annual pruning. In the first years, remove only strong tops and root shoots, but as soon as the bush gains volume, begin thinning the crown. Try to keep an adult bush in the following parameters: height - 2-2.5 m, diameter - from 1.5 to 2.5 m. Short weak shoots, branches that have stopped growing, old, thickening and cross-growing branches must be pruned. Pruning old branches can significantly rejuvenate the bush, and if aging has taken hold most crowns, cut the entire plant to the base and form a new bush from the root shoots.
Pruning rose hips in spring
Rosehip is not very popular in summer cottages, it's a pity. Its bush attracts the eye with its beauty and nobility, and the buds, leaves, fruits and even roots have healing powers that humanity has used since time immemorial. The rosehip reaches a height of 1 to 3 m; its bushes can be either compact or spreading. Rosehip is light-loving and picky about soil composition. After planting, the rosehip seedling is pruned short, leaving 2-3 buds on each branch, after which the plant is freed from pruning for two years. In the third year, sanitary pruning of the bush is carried out, removing root shoots, weak ones lying on the ground, broken and extra branches, and strong ones are pruned at a height of 20 cm. When the newly grown shoots reach a length of 70 cm, their tops are pinched. Starting next year, it will be necessary to normalize the number of branches, of which there should be about 20 in total. In the future, branches older than 5 years will be cut out, and new shoots will be formed to replace them from strong growth.
Pruning chokeberry in spring
By its nature, chokeberry is a typical shrub, although it is often formed into a tree. But it’s not so difficult to regulate the number of branches in a bush and not force the plant, turning the bush into a tree. After planting, cut off all the branches of the seedling at a height of 10-20 cm, and leave 3-5 strong shoots from the basal shoots that appear next year, cutting them so that they are approximately the same length as the branches of the bush. Cut the rest of the growth to the ground. Next year, add 3-4 more basal shoots to the bush. With this number of branches you can finish the formation - for a chokeberry bush it is quite enough to have about 10 branches.
When the bush is formed, make sure that sunlight could penetrate into the very depths of the crown, otherwise it would be difficult to achieve normal branching and the formation of flower buds in chokeberry. The most productive chokeberry branches are 8-10 years old, so plan pruning based on this, and prepare strong root shoots in advance to replace old branches. Every year you will have to replace only 2-3 old branches.
Pruning ornamental shrubs
There are two types of pruning ornamental shrubs– regular, which forms the correct crown and stimulates abundant flowering, and rejuvenating, prolonging the life of the plant. The timing and nature of pruning depend on the type of shrub. In relation to pruning, ornamental shrubs are divided into three groups:
- deciduous shrubs growing not from the base of the bush, but along the perimeter of the crown - common barberry, chaenomeles, bladderwort, flowering turf, flowering dogwood, cotoneaster, magnolia, euonymus, mackerel, daphne, cherry laurel, Syrian hibiscus, viburnum, serviceberry and others;
- deciduous shrubs that bloom on last year's shoots in spring or early summer - spring-flowering spirea, large-leaved hydrangea, weigela, forsythia, deutzia, Japanese keria, tamarix, colquitzia, jasmine, mock orange, blood-red currant, lilac and others;
- deciduous shrubs blooming on the shoots of the current year - paniculata and tree hydrangea, David's buddleia, willow spirea, Japanese, Boumalda and Douglas.
Plants of the first group require minimal sanitary pruning in early spring, before the start of sap flow, weakened, diseased, inward-growing crowns and intersecting shoots are removed. Sometimes living shoots are slightly shortened to make the bushes more decorative.
Shrubs of the second group pruned immediately after flowering - the faded shoots are shortened by about a third so that the plants grow new ones. Try not to cut the shoots at the same height every year, otherwise, over time, thick growths will form on them, due to which the plant cannot develop new shoots. If you begin to form the crown of a shrub of the second group in the spring, you can remove all future flowers, since the flower buds of these plants form on last year’s shoots. When rejuvenating pruning, all shoots are cut at soil level.
Some early flowering plants of the second group require radical pruning after flowering - willow, gorse, three-lobed almond. They need to be pruned to strong new shoots or to the ground, and next year they will bloom more luxuriantly than before.
The third group is represented by late-flowering shrubs that form flowers in summer or autumn on the shoots of the current year, so pruning them in early spring is quite justified. And the more the bushes are pruned, the more abundant their flowering will subsequently be. This pruning is not carried out annually, but once every three to four years, but between heavy prunings, from time to time, still remove old branches and shorten the shoots to the required height so that the bushes look neat.
For any type of pruning, you may need a garden saw, a lopper, a pruning shear with two blades, a garden knife for trimming annual growth, a hedge trimmer for performing formative pruning and trimming hedges, a ladder, garden pitcher or rannet paste. All instruments must be sharp and sterile. A day after pruning, treat sections with a diameter greater than 7 mm with garden varnish or wound-healing paste.
Proper formative pruning is always a beautiful hedgeBeginning gardeners often face the problem of poor growth and flowering. ornamental plants. One of the main reasons is the lack of regular pruning.
When to prune ornamental plants
The procedure should be carried out until the buds appear and sap flow begins.
- In the southern regions, where climatic conditions allow, formative pruning can begin at the end of February.
- In the Moscow region, pruning should be completed by the end of March.
- In the northern zone of Russia, it is recommended to wait until the beginning of April.
At temperatures below 10 C, pruning is not recommended: the tree crumbles and the wounds do not heal well. Tools you may need: pruners, loppers, hedge trimmers, garden knife. A chainsaw or pruning saw is useful for trimming large branches.
Trimming technology
- Before starting work, you should select unnecessary branches, draw a pruning plan and carry out it in stages so as not to remove anything unnecessary.
- On thick branches, a cut is made along the fibers, and on the opposite side, in the direction of the cut, a longitudinal cut is made to avoid breaking. This prevents the bark from breaking and promotes rapid wound healing.
- If the cut is large, it is covered with garden varnish. The layer must be at least 5 mm so that the wound does not dry out and infection does not get there.
- In adult, two-year-old shrubs, thick old branches are cut out, reducing the density of the central part. In this way, you will prolong the youth of the plant, as the branches will be renewed.
- To improve the intensity of growth and the number of flower buds, periodic cutting of branches through one should be done. This will also help to form a beautiful, unthickened shrub with high decorative qualities.
- Decorative hedges are thinned twice a year: in the spring before the sap begins to flow and in mid-summer, to remove rapidly developing branches and give shape. This prevents the appearance of empty gaps and promotes uniform growth of shoots. The rule for all ornamental shrubs is: the more often you cut them, the thicker they grow.
Deciduous shrubs that grow along the edge of the crown require minimal care. These are common barberry, cotoneasters, cinquefoil, and viburnum. In the first years they need to be shortened to the same height of approximately 1.5 m.
Adult shoots of shrubs undergo sanitary pruning at the root, selecting old and damaged branches. If this is not done, the plants will become dense, elongated, and look unkempt.
Deciduous ornamental shrubs that bloom on last year's shoots require extensive pruning. These include lilac, blood-red currant, and large-leaved hydrangea. Biennial, non-flowering and damaged branches are removed after flowering. If you prune earlier, the tree may not produce flower buds at all, and there will be no buds on it.
Growing shrub plants on local area, cottage or garden, Special attention pay attention to proper care. Pruning shrubs often goes by the wayside, and in vain. After all, as the bushes grow, they become voluminous and their crowns lose their attractive appearance. Therefore, pruning them is an important agrotechnical measure. It is carried out in compliance with deadlines and taking into account the specifics different types crops Read about this in the article.
How is pruning done?
There are two ways to carry out the procedure:
- Shortening branches.
- Thinning the bush.
Both methods have the same goal - to redistribute nutrients throughout all branches. This stimulates them to begin to grow intensively. In the process of pruning, the buds become smaller, as a result of which the path from the roots to the leaves is shortened, and the growth of the plant increases.
Branches are shortened when it is necessary to partially remove the upper part of the shoot. Thanks to this procedure, the thickness of the branches increases, young shoots grow quickly, and the buds develop intensively. Thinning is carried out when all branches need to be removed. This type of pruning of shrubs does not allow them to thicken, preventing the appearance of pests in them and the development of various diseases.
What types of pruning are there?
It depends on what result is expected from this procedure. In general, there are several types of shrub pruning:
- Sanitary.
- Formative.
- Rejuvenating.
So that the bush pleases for a long time lush flowering, lush greenery, beautiful crown, it is important to perform all types of pruning, alternating them depending on the timing.
Sanitary pruning
All shrub plants undergo this procedure. It is held in the autumn. Its main goal is to prevent infectious processes to which plants are exposed and prevent them from rotting. The procedure for pruning shrubs is simple. It is necessary to remove all damaged and broken branches, and to ensure that the crown is well ventilated, it should be thinned out. To do this, some of the immature branches growing inside the bush need to be cut off at a level of two to three centimeters above the bud.
Formative pruning
In autumn, this procedure is carried out only for summer-blooming shrubs. If you prune plants that bloom in spring, their decorative properties will significantly deteriorate, since the flowers form on last year's shoots. With the help of molding pruning of shrubs, ordinary plants are turned into decorative ones, for which several shoots with great strength growth.
In some shrubs, the root shoots grow quickly, which makes them too wide, so during formation you need to remove shoots around the perimeter. But you shouldn’t be too zealous, as this can affect the density of the plant’s crown; it will become loose and unsightly. First of all, weak branches coming from the roots are removed. It is also possible to trim strong shoots directed into the bush that interfere with the growing ones nearby. strong branches. The most correct thing would be to leave those shoots that will be replaced by sick or old ones in the future.
In shrubs with poor winter hardiness, the formation of dry branches is a common occurrence. They should be removed during pruning. The cut should be made above the level of the second bud from the base. If individual branches have fallen down and spoil the decorative appearance of the bush, you need to get rid of them. During wintering, the upper shoots may freeze, although the lying branches are not affected by the frost. In this case, you just need to tie them up and leave them.
Anti-aging pruning
It is carried out on mature shrubs so that their flowering is more luxuriant. Anti-aging pruning is also carried out on plants with an annual growth of less than seven centimeters. This procedure involves shortening old branches. After it, dormant and accessory buds activate their growth. The timing of pruning shrubs is extended over time. This can be done starting from the last month of winter and ending in April, as well as in August and September.
The rejuvenating procedure consists of cutting off the branches by 30% from the very top after the end of the flowering period. To make it even more abundant, remove one, the oldest branch in the bush. Shrubs should be rejuvenated once every two years.
Indications for radical rejuvenation
This procedure is necessary if the bush is no longer able to produce both strong and weak shoots. In this case, all branches are cut at the same level with the ground. But if the plant was formed on a rootstock, then the cut is made 10-15 cm above the graft. This is the only way to make the buds activate and produce new growth of shoots. After one or two seasons, weak and poorly placed branches are pruned.
Ornamental shrubs
They are grown for use in landscape design. Pruning of ornamental shrubs is carried out to give them an attractive appearance. The first procedure is carried out during planting, in the spring. The shoots of young seedlings are shortened by 10-15 cm. Three to five buds are left on each. New shoots will grow from them within the first year. During autumn pruning shrubs get rid of broken, diseased, dry shoots and those lying on the ground. If during the first year the growth of the bush was weak, all shoots are cut off at a level of three to five centimeters above the ground.
In the second year of life, the bush forms several powerful branches. In autumn it is necessary to carry out sanitary pruning. The cut must be made at the very base. If necessary, this pruning is repeated in the spring. But it should be carried out until the buds swell and the juice begins to flow.
In the future, when carrying out pruning, it should be remembered that only during the first year of life the branches grow quickly, then the rate of their growth decreases, and by five to six years of life it stops altogether. The formation of the crown of shrubs ends in the fourth or fifth year after planting.
The ratio of shoots on a bush-type plant
Looking at a bush, it is very difficult to determine “by eye” how many and what kind of shoots it has. But it probably won’t hurt to know their age ratio. Each bush has four to five one-year-old branches, three-four two-year-old branches, two or three three-four-five-year-old branches. Old branches that are more than five or six years old are completely removed.
When forming an ornamental shrub, it should be remembered that when removing shoots, their physiological state, strength and direction of growth are taken into account. Therefore, the above ratio can always change, but this does not mean that the bush is formed incorrectly.
Hedge trimming
The appearance of such a structure made from growing shrubs depends on how it will be formed during the first year after planting. Gardeners often do not attach importance to this and do not prune plants for several years, leaving this procedure for later.
Without pruning at the beginning of growth, the branches of the bush will stretch upward, and the hedge in its lower part will be bare. To prevent this from happening, during the first year of the plant’s life, you need to cut out all the shoots at a level of 15 cm above the ground surface. Powerful root layers will begin to grow.
A year later, you need to do the same pruning again, which will help form the crown correctly. If its density is insufficient, severe pruning will be required next year. In the third year of the bush’s life and in all subsequent years, only cosmetic pruning should be done, since strong basal growth will finally form.
Curly trimming
In landscape design, the most fashionable were once alpine coaster, well-groomed lawns. But as time goes on, the fashion for landscaping is changing. Currently, a new trend in this direction has become very popular - figured pruning of shrubs, which is one of the types of garden creativity and is called topiary. Skillful hands masters transform shrubs into masterpieces that decorate not only gardens and parks, but also palaces. Unusual figures are created, usually from evergreen or small-leaved plants. The crowns of bushes and trees are pruned using geometric shapes.
Cone
This shape is the easiest to trim. It will be easier to give it to a plant if it is naturally cone-shaped. The haircut should start from the crown, from its top, gradually going down. To make the cone proportional, poles are used. They are placed next to the trunk on four sides, and the tops are collected slightly above the crown. It turns out to be a pyramid. Those branches that extend beyond its contour are cut off. This geometric shape is suitable for barberry and juniper.
Ball
This geometric figure can be obtained by pruning bushes such as laurel and gooseberries. The process is labor-intensive, but it can be made easier if you make a wire template in advance, which is a ring with a handle. The main condition is that the width of the device must be smaller than the crown. The ring is attached to the bush, and excess branches are cut off. If the plant has a naturally spherical shape, you just need to maintain it.
Spiral
This element is very effective, but also quite difficult. It can be used on shrubs that have a cone shape. There are two ways to trim the plant to form a spiral:
- Using regular tape that needs to be wrapped around the crown. The areas of the plant located between the turns are trimmed. Great care is needed here.
- Another method is carried out using a stick, which is inserted into the ground at a close distance from the bush and tied to it. You need to take a rope, fix it at the very top of the stick and lower it in a spiral downward. The shoots need to be cut down to the trunk, which is considered the main one, following the shape outlined by the rope.
Gardening Tools
They are needed for “trimming” plants whose branches have different thicknesses. Therefore, tools for pruning bushes are for various purposes.
- Secateurs are devices that are used to cut branches with a diameter of up to two and a half centimeters. They come in two types: with curved and straight blades. The operating principle of the first type is similar to that of scissors. The main goal in working with it is to cut a thick shoot efficiently, without gaps. To do this, the tool must be well sharpened and have a gap between the blades. The second type of pruning shears has a straight blade; during operation it rests against the plate, or more precisely at its end. The advantage of this mechanism is that there is no need to check the gap between the blades, but the disadvantage is the inability to get to hard-to-reach places.
- Lopper. This tool easily copes with thick shoots with a diameter of five centimeters. With its help, you can remove branches deep in the lush crown, where other tools cannot reach. Its variety is a rope lopper, which is used for trimming branches growing at a fairly high altitude.
- Saw. It is used to remove branches that are too thick. The teeth of the saw reach a height of five to seven millimeters and are set wide enough so that they do not become clogged with wood during work.
- The knife is the most sought after garden tools, it is used to trim and clean thin branches, cut off bark, and correct crooked cuts.
- Scissors for trimming bushes. Gardeners use them to form a figured crown and decorative hedge. With their help, shrubs are given an interesting shape.
- Stepladder is garden tools, without which it is difficult to care for the bush. The ladder should be stable and its legs should be widely spaced. This way it will be more stable.
What to feed after pruning?
Regardless of the season of the procedure, plants need increased nutrition, since it is at this time that the vegetative mass increases. The indication for fertilizing the soil is to reduce the concentration useful substances in it. Plants especially need nitrogen and potassium at this time. You can use a solution you prepare yourself. Take potassium nitrate (three spoons) and water (10 liters). Everything is mixed, after which the bush is watered to the very root with this mixture. You can use nitrophoska or a mixture of urea and ash in a proportion of 30 and 100 g, respectively, per bucket of water.
If pruning of shrubs is carried out in August or September, the plants are in dire need of phosphorus, since the active formation of the root system occurs during this period of time. Fertilizer is scattered over the surface of the soil into the plants. Its application is combined with watering.
The most effective feeding of both decorative and fruit bushes is an infusion of compost. To do this, half a kilogram of organic matter is diluted in 10 liters of water, left for two to three days and watered the plants in the evening, when the sun has set. If the summer is hot and long time the drought continues, first tree trunk circles watered with plain water and then with a solution.
We trim shrubs and decorative ones too)))
From the point of view of the condition of trees and shrubs, spring is a very suitable time for pruning, especially severe, since severe frosts have already passed and all branches damaged by frost and mechanically broken are noticeable. In the same time it must be carried out until the buds swell and even more actively begin to bloom!!!
About pruning fruit trees and berry bushes, we have already written earlier, so now we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the features of its implementation by decorative gardeners.
All ornamental shrubs require timely and correct pruning, aimed at removing dead and damaged shoots, restraining rapid growth and forming a beautiful crown (by cutting and thinning), stimulating flowering, as well as rejuvenating old bushes.
In relation to ornamental shrubs, there are 3 types of pruning:
- sanitary
- formative
- rejuvenating.
Almost all shrubs need sanitary pruning. Formative is needed by the majority. There are only a small number of shrubs that do not require formative pruning. An annual sanitary pruning every spring is enough for them, during which all weak, frozen, intersecting shoots are removed. An example of such picky individuals is golden currant, Van Gutta spirea
The main task of pruning ornamental shrubs – achieve maximum decorative effect, for the sake of which these plants are grown in the garden.
The method of pruning shrubs depends on the characteristics of each type of plant.
The range of ornamental shrubs is very diverse, therefore the principles of pruning them are different - depending on the characteristics of their species. Therefore, before you start pruning, you should decide which group according to the type of pruning this shrub belongs to..
Sanitary pruning
Rice. Sanitary pruning of ornamental shrubs
- removing diseased, drying, broken, hanging down, intertwined branches;
- removal of coppice and top shoots (raising the crown);
- cuttings of "pins";
- formation of a uniformly translucent and ventilated crown.
Rice. Timing for sanitary pruning of ornamental bushes.
This type of pruning is best considered using the example of vines. By tying the shoots to guide sticks or cords immediately after planting, we take the first step towards the formation of its branches. In the first summer, the plant develops rapidly, forming new shoots and, while they are still flexible, they are given the desired direction of growth and carefully secured to supports. In the spring, the first pruning is carried out, side shoots cut to a suitable bud, and unnecessary ones are cut off entirely; places that are too thick are thinned out in depth. Next spring, several new shoots are formed from dormant buds at the places where the side shoots are cut, to which we give the desired direction of growth, and which already at this stage allows us to predetermine the basic shape (skeleton) of the plant.
Rice. Formative pruning.
Anti-aging pruning
Rice. Rejuvenating pruning decorative bushes(scheme according to Luchinsky)
Quite conventionally, all types of shrubs can be divided into beautifully flowering (this can also include shrubs with beautiful fruits: cotoneaster, barberry, etc.) and decorative deciduous .
Pruning flowering shrubs
Flowering shrubs are grown for their magnificent flowers, so the main purpose of pruning them is to achieve abundant blooms.
According to pruning features beautiful flowering shrubs should be divided into three groups.
First group
The first group includes shrubs, which do not form replacement powerful shoots from the base or lower part of the crown. Annual growths of these shrubs appear along the perimeter of the crown.
Of the most common garden plots plants, such shrubs include, for example: common viburnum, varietal lilac, cotoneaster, common barberry, mackerel, serviceberry, magnolia (star and Sulanja), Japanese quince (chaenomeles), Syrian hibiscus and many others.
Ornamental shrubs of the first group require minimal pruning.
In the first years after planting, it is very important to form the plant’s skeleton from strong branches. To do this, early in the spring (during the dormant period), all weak, intersecting and incorrectly located shoots that spoil the appearance of the plant should be removed.
Rice. Pruning shrubs of the first group: in the first year after planting, weak and intersecting and incorrectly located branches are removed; in the second and subsequent years, only incorrectly located, dead, diseased and damaged branches are pruned.
Pruning mature bushes usually comes down to removing shrunken, damaged and diseased branches. If necessary, some living shoots are also removed or pruned in order to maintain the symmetry of the branches and the desired decorative look bushes
Second group
Second group includes shrubs, that bloom on last year's shoots(on last year's growth of branches).
Such shrubs, for example, include: weigela, deutzia, large-leaved hydrangea, tamarix, Japanese kerria, colquitia, stephanandra, forsythia, mock orange, three-lobed almond, some types of spirea (mainly early flowering ones - spirea Wangutta, Thunberg, sharp-toothed, nippon, oak leaf) and others.
Shrubs in this group usually bloom in spring or early summer. Given the rapid growth of these shrubs, their seedlings should be planted in the garden before they are two, or at most three, years old.
Planted plants are pruned very sparingly – limited to the removal of weak and damaged branches, as well as gentle pruning (a few cm) of skeletal branches to a strong bud. Immediately after flowering, the faded branches of these shrubs are pruned, leaving strong developing growth, and thin and weak growths are removed.
Rice. Pruning shrubs of the second group: a - in the first year after planting (in spring); 6 - autumn of the first year; in subsequent years.
And in subsequent years, pruning of shrubs of this group should be carried out immediately after flowering. Trim faded branches, leaving the best lower young growths and at the same time forming a beautiful crown of the bush to your taste. You should also regularly trim down to the ground a fourth or fifth of old branches that have become unproductive - this will ensure the appearance of young powerful shoots from the base of the bush.
It should be noted that pruning many shrubs included in the second group has its own nuances.
Nuances of pruning the second group
For example, in Kerria japonica, faded branches should be pruned to the ground or to strong young shoots.
Should be pruned fairly heavily after flowering and triloba almond.
Garden hydrangea (especially at a young age), on the contrary, is pruned purely “cosmetically” - only weak and damaged shoots are removed. And in adult hydrangeas, only part of the old stems are removed in order to stimulate the annual formation of strong replacement shoots. At the same time, it is advisable not to cut off even faded hydrangea inflorescences from the bush, since in winter they provide certain protection to the growths and flower buds from damage by frost. Therefore, it is better to remove faded hydrangea inflorescences in early spring.
Third group
The third group includes shrubs, that bloom on the shoots of the current year .
Of the common plant species, this group includes, for example, abundant blooming in summer types and forms of spirea (spirea Boumalda, Japanese, Douglas, willow), as well as David's buddleia, tree and paniculate hydrangeas.
In early spring, mature shrubs of this group are heavily pruned so that they develop powerful shoots - then they will bloom profusely in summer or early autumn. If this is not done, the plants will quickly thicken and take on a neglected appearance. At the same time, without pruning, the quality of flowering of adult shrubs of the third group gradually decreases.
It should be especially emphasized here that in the first year after planting, young 2-3 year old seedlings of these shrubs are not pruned as much as in subsequent years (to ensure the normal development of their still weak root system).
After rooting and formation of a young plant, in the future, shrubs of this group are pruned annually and heavily in early spring. In this case, all last year's growth of shoots is pruned to well-developed buds above the older part of the stem.
If after a few years the main lignified branches thicken, they are thinned out, maintaining the decorative appearance of the bush.
Pruning decorative deciduous shrubs
This group includes types and forms of ornamental shrubs with original foliage, For example:
- white-edged form of white pig,
- golden form of black elderberry and spirea Bumald,
- Thunberg barberry,
- red-leaved forms of hazel,
- barberry,
- skumpii,
- vesicular carp (Spiraea viburnum)
- and other plants.
When to prune decorative deciduous trees
Ornamental deciduous shrubs must be pruned annually in early spring, and pruned quite heavily. They do this to cause active growth young shoots and their leaves have achieved the maximum decorative effect, and appearance the bushes were kept neat.
A few words from the author
It should always be remembered that correct pruning- this is just one of the components of a multifactor technology for growing ornamental shrubs, which involves right choice and location in the garden, correct, timely and regular care:
- watering,
- feeding,
- removing weeds and mulching the soil,
- pest and disease control,
- protection of heat-loving plants for the winter.
Prepared by Alexander Zharavin, agronomist
Every bush needs shaping and pruning - just like any person needs a haircut at least occasionally. Without pruning fruit and ornamental shrubs, their aesthetic qualities and ability to bear fruit are lost. In addition, overgrown plantings inhibit other crops on the site, preventing them from receiving required amount light and moisture. How to properly trim decorative and berry bushes so that your garden is always well-groomed and productive?
Terms and rules for pruning ornamental and fruit bushes
The main reason for the wide popularity of shrubs is their relatively simple care. Most of them do not require regular replanting and tolerate cold winters in the middle zone. Certain types of shrubs are moderately shade-tolerant and, even in the shade, grow, bloom and bear fruit.
At the same time, in addition to the basic work associated with the cultivation of shrubs (fertilizer, watering, digging the soil, mulching, treatment), the success of their cultivation largely depends on another agrotechnical technique.
We are talking about shaping and pruning ornamental and berry bushes – correctly and in a timely manner. These procedures are the most in effective ways regulation of the processes of growth, development and flowering of shrub plants.
Shaping and pruning shrubs with your own hands includes shaping the crown, starting from being in the nursery and in the first years after planting them on permanent place. Shrub pruning is carried out at different age periods.
Pruning usually weakens or enhances plant growth, speeds up or slows down flowering and fruiting, improves or creates the desired crown shape. Pruning plays an important role in the prevention of various diseases of shrubs and in significantly reducing the number of pests.
Properly applied shaping, and subsequently pruning, contributes to the longevity of plants, its decorative effect, and fruit crops- obtaining high and regular yields. How to prune shrubs so that they bloom profusely and bear fruit well? When is the best time to prune shrubs?
Most shrubs begin to form in the nursery, before planting in a permanent place. They are formed in the form of a highly branched bush. The second time for pruning shrubs is in the second year after planting, they undergo low pruning, at a height of 5 - 7 cm from the root collar.
If you know how to prune shrubs correctly, you can increase the bushiness of plants by creating additional shoots from dormant buds located below the cut point. This is especially important for such species as honeysuckle, lilac, hawthorn, buckthorn, hazel, which are predisposed to develop a central shoot to the detriment of the lateral ones. At the same time, barberry, spirea, cotoneaster, and cinquefoil bush well even without pruning. However, to give the bushes better shape and to enhance tillering, these species should also be heavily pruned, removing all shoots at a height of at least 1/3 from the soil surface. According to the rules, pruning of shrubs in spring should be done before buds begin to bloom.
How to prune berry bushes and when is the best time to do it?
Shrubs, unlike trees, are for the most part less durable, and their life is often only a few dozen years. Elderberry black good care lives up to 50 years, while red elderberry, snowberry, meadowsweet, and mock orange live less than 15 - 25 years. How to determine when is the best time to prune bushes? Usually the gardener himself determines whether he likes the plant or not, hence the need for pruning. It's not even enough for a man to someone who knows the plant, it is easy to identify defects that need to be eliminated: damaged or broken branches, dry and rubbing shoots, rotting branches, protruding branches, especially on trimmed hedges.
Before pruning berry bushes, it is very important to determine the reasons for the unsatisfactory condition of the plants. It is known that plants are most vulnerable when they are not properly cared for, that is, they are insufficiently provided with nutrition, moisture, and lack air and light. Weakened plants are more likely to be attacked by pests than healthy ones. Therefore, before pruning ornamental or berry bushes, you need to identify disease-damaged or dead branches and remove them first - this will allow the bushes to grow, bloom and bear fruit normally.
The degree of pruning can be very different: from removing faded flowers from lilacs or roses to trimming large skeletal branches of fruit crops, as well as rejuvenating pruning of old bushes. It should be remembered that pruning for plants is the same surgical operation, and before starting it, the gardener must know exactly whether it is necessary and what he wants to achieve with this operation. It is very important for the further normal development of shrubs to carry out their formation and pruning in early age to give the plant in the future optimal shape crowns
Different types of plants react differently to pruning, since the shape of the crown of the bush is of great importance, which can be either pyramidal, or spherical, or creeping, etc. For example, Hungarian lilac, cotoneaster, honeysuckle have new shoots after low pruning occur along the entire length of the branches, and in rhododendrons, yellow rose low pruning causes the death of entire branches and even the entire bush, since these plants do not have the property of budding on the lower old branches.
Quite often in middle lane In Russia, and especially in the Moscow region, ornamental shrubs suffer from winter frosts or late spring or early autumn frosts. Winter damage plants are very diverse: death as a result of the formation of ice in the tissues of shrubs, and the appearance of frost holes and cracks on the shoots, and the death of flower buds, and the freezing of individual branches, roots or parts of the crown.
Significant damage to shrubs, and primarily to berry plants (raspberries, gooseberries), is caused by winter drying out.
Measures to combat plant freezing include, first of all, the correct choice of site for planting shrubs, careful care and proper preparation of plants for winter. Various pests and diseases worsen the condition of plants, which significantly weaken the winter resistance of plants. Therefore, regular watering is one of the conditions for good overwintering of plants.
To protect the root system and lower part of the shoots from freezing, soil mulching and snow retention should be used. To do this, it is safest to pour 15-20 cm of soil at the base of the bush. You can use spruce branches, straw or well-rotted compost. This should be done depending on the weather in late November - early December. It is much more difficult to create protection for shrubs that have a tall trunk, and especially for tall trunks of roses, apple trees and some other plants. Young flexible trunks should be bent, fixed, giving a horizontal position, and covered with earth. In the spring, after the end of frost, the plants are freed from shelter and, as necessary, the damaged areas of the bush are pruned.
How to properly prune ornamental shrubs for hedges
Hedges serve equally both to delimit areas and to decorate them. For constructing a high wall along a fence, the most suitable are hawthorn, sea buckthorn, turf, viburnum, tall rose hips, etc. Spireas (oak-leaved, middle, Vangutta), currants, cotoneaster, honeysuckle, mock orange, bay laurel, and barberry are especially suitable for medium-height hedges. For low borders, up to 1 - 1.2 m, it is best to use Boumalda spirea, Thunberg barberry, holly mahonia, Japanese quince, boxwood, privet, purple willow, common holly, etc.
IN Lately gardeners most often plant and form hedges of a strict geometric shape, mostly rectangular or slightly tapering at the top. With such pruning, the hedge becomes bare more slowly, as it receives maximum light, air and water in the form of precipitation. Such a fence reliably closes the area from prying eyes, protects it from the wind, and also gives the area the most well-groomed appearance.
Plants that form a large number of root shoots and, accordingly, shoots - these include fieldfare, steppe cherry, wolfberry, derain, downy sumac, etc.
When installing a hedge, it is very important to purchase high-quality planting material. When buying seedlings in containers or bags, check general state plants. Seedlings should be the same height, with dark green healthy foliage. Brown foliage and one-sided growth indicate the poor quality of these plants.
Seedlings with an open root system should be examined especially carefully.
A bad sign is the presence of dried, damaged or poorly developed roots in seedlings and their one-sided development.
It is best to trim hedges with electric or manual shears.
To maintain the architectural, geometric shapes given to hedges, it is necessary to carry out regular haircuts. In the first years of crown formation, it is important to achieve good branching over the entire height of the plant being formed.
It's best to get a haircut late autumn(October-November) and early spring (March - April). How to trim hedge from deciduous shrubs? They are cut very low, leaving up to 10 cm of the current year's growth. The next year, the resulting shoots are shortened again and this is done to the designed size of the fence.
Some shrubs require frequent pruning; the need for it can be determined by the thickening of the crown.
How and when to prune vines
The great advantage of vines is the ability to use them to beautifully decorate unsightly walls of buildings, dying trees, verandas, gazebos, trellises, arches, etc. In general, vines are indispensable for vertical gardening. Different types of vines have a wide variety of adaptations that allow them to be strengthened on any support.
Pruning vines is an effective technique for preserving the decorative appearance of plants and regulating their growth vigor.
The need for pruning is explained by the fact that these plants are not able to independently maintain the vertical position of the stem, so they use various buildings, trees, rocks, etc. as support.
Lianas need to be pruned like all other shrubby plants. climbing plants, which bloom on last year's growth (March - June), are pruned immediately after flowering, while weak and thickening shoots and, first of all, faded branches are removed.
All species that bloom on the current year's shoots, such as honeysuckle and clematis, are pruned in early spring. This allows the plant to produce a large number of young, flowering shoots.
Deciduous vines grown for their beautiful leaves and shoots, especially leaves with rich autumn color, e.g. girl's grapes, should be pruned only in late autumn, in October - November.
When should you prune vines whose leaves do not fall off in the winter? Evergreen vines should be pruned in early spring.
Lianas used for vertical gardening of gazebos, sheds, and walls require pruning in the spring - in late March - early April. At the same time, all branches and shoots that go beyond the limits provided for by the project are removed and give these places a sloppy appearance. When planting certain vines in the garden, you should not expect that in the very first years they will show all their splendor. Beautiful, highly decorative plants will show their potential only after a few years.
How to prune shrubs beautifully: do-it-yourself curly pruning (with video)
The best examples of curly pruning of shrubs are considered to be the so-called living sculptures. To create various shapes from shrubs, it is very important to ensure that they are evenly covered from top to bottom with leaves or pine needles.
In order to perform curly pruning of shrubs with your own hands, you need to choose the right plants and shape them accordingly.
The easiest way to have a living sculpture in your garden is to purchase shrubs in the sculptural form you desire. The best sculptures are made from evergreens such as boxwood, privet, holly, cherry laurel, and bay laurel. However, in central Russia, most species of evergreen plants in open ground In winter they freeze or die. Therefore, only coniferous and deciduous shrubs are suitable for creating living sculptures in the garden. For small figures it is very good to use spirea, honeysuckle, elm, cotoneaster, barberry, mahonia, Japanese quince, etc.
Small-leaved linden, hawthorn, spruce, hazel, small-leaved elm, apple berry and some others are quite suitable for creating larger figures.
Figures formed from evergreens, and above all boxwood, look very beautiful. How to prune shrubs beautifully to create living sculptures from them? Plants should be formed in an appropriate container so that they can be transferred to heated rooms for the winter. The plants from which the sculptures will be formed are planted on fertile, permeable soils in bright places in the garden. Decorative pruning Making shrubs with your own hands to form living sculptures from deciduous plants is done in early spring or at the end of shoot growth.
Watch a video of pruning shrubs to create living sculptures:
How to prune shrubs and photos of garden pruning tools
To shape and trim ornamental shrubs, you must have the appropriate tool and know the rules for using it. The quality of equipment is also of great importance for work.
Garden tools must meet the following requirements:
- have comfortable handles and be sharp;
- be as easy and safe as possible to work with;
- withstand significant loads, especially when cutting old thick shoots.
How to prune shrubs to give them the required form? The main tools for pruning ornamental shrubs are different kinds pruners, loppers, garden shears, garden saws, garden knives, as well as electric saw for trimming bush hedges. And among the auxiliary devices we can highlight garden ladders, putty and gloves for work.
Most often, gardeners use a garden tool for pruning and shrubs, such as pruning shears. It is indispensable for shortening shoots and cutting out branches that thicken the crown. The diameter of the branches cut with pruning shears should not exceed 1 - 2 cm. In gardening stores you can buy pruners with long handles, suitable for cutting branches up to 3 - 4 cm thick. For cutting high-lying branches, rod or pole loppers are used, which are driven using a rope. The blades of such loppers must be well sharpened.
To remove old, fruit-bearing shoots of currants, gooseberries and other berry crops, it is best to use pruners with long handles - they are especially good for cutting branches in dense berry bushes.
Garden shears have long handles and long knives (40 - 50 cm); they are especially convenient for cutting tall hedges.
The most important tool for a gardener is garden saws, which are used to cut out dry, diseased or broken shoots, as well as branches that thicken the crown. They are especially often used for rejuvenating shrubs.
Garden knives consist of a handle and a blade; they must always be sharpened, as they are used for cleaning uneven cuts, cutting bark and trimming thin branches.
These photos show the shrub pruning tools that every gardener needs to have:
