Types of outdoor insulation for the house. The choice of insulation for thermal insulation of the outer walls of the house. The better to insulate the house from the outside - standards for the number of layers

In most cases, people are accustomed to insulating houses with inside, although this is not entirely correct. Thermal insulation of walls with external insulation has a number of advantages compared to the internal insulation of an apartment. Insulation installed indoors reduces the usable space of rooms, especially when it comes to corner apartments or private housing construction.

By laying insulation only on the inner walls of the house, not all energy saving problems can be solved. In such a situation, the building outside will continue to freeze and accumulate excess moisture, which after a while can penetrate inside the house. Therefore, it is advisable carry out external insulation. But just before the start installation work you need to learn to understand the main characteristics of external wall insulation.

Advantages of external wall insulation

The main advantages of wall insulation from the outside are saving usable space inside the building, protecting the house from freezing and increasing the overall operational life of the building. At the same time, external wall insulation does not increase the load on the building structure and does not put additional pressure on the foundation.

Special attention deserves warming the house high degree of protection from freezing. First of all, this is due to the fact that the laying of thermal insulation from the inside prevents heat from escaping from the room to the outside, while the walls continue to freeze when negative temperatures. Between interior walls and heat-insulating material forms a zone in which water condenses, accompanying the formation of fungal mold and rapid cooling of the room under the influence of moisture.

Moisture-soaked insulation indoors does not dry out even in the summer heat, creating a permanent zone of water accumulation, which significantly affects the service life of the building. When using external insulation for walls, the point of condensation is shifted towards the heat-insulating layer. The walls, insulated from the outside, do not cool down and retain heat, reducing its loss for a long time. External heat-insulating materials quickly lose moisture, retaining their main characteristics, increasing the operational life of the walls. To the main benefits external wall insulation can include the following characteristics:

• saving thermal energy in winter;
• keeping cool indoors in the summer heat;
• energy savings when heating or cooling the house;
• increase in the operational resource of the house;
• preventing the development of fungal mold;
• the aesthetic component of the external insulation transforms the house.

Another advantage of using external thermal insulation materials can be attributed to the high soundproofing of the room. If in the buildings of the private sector this issue is not so important, then in large metropolitan areas soundproofing of premises remains relevant.

Requirements for external insulation for walls

Conducting outdoor thermal insulation works should be comprehensive. This is because right choice insulation depends on the material from which the structure is built. Yes, for brick houses most often use the familiar foam. In its turn, wooden buildings it is better to insulate with mineral wool. Naturally, the final choice remains with the homeowner. At the same time, choosing outer insulation for walls, you need to pay attention on the following material characteristics:

But regardless of the insulation used and its main characteristics, the main thing is to try to create a rational heat-insulating structure that will avoid a lot of undesirable problems of external wall insulation. In particular, you need take into account external factors, such as rain, snow and other precipitation, as well as a strong temperature difference in winter and summer, which the outer thermal insulation material must withstand.

Varieties of fastening of external insulation

To the most popular ways carrying out installation work on wall insulation with external insulation include the following:

Naturally, each version of insulation has its own characteristics and difficulties of implementation. There are many materials on the market today. combined type, which not only solve the issue of building insulation, but, subject to installation technology, provide waterproofing and fire safety of the building.

Selection criteria and types of external heaters

Regardless of what thermal insulation material the choice of the homeowner will be stopped on, he will cope with the tasks assigned to him. But they all differ in their main characteristics and, of course, in the price, which plays an important role in external insulation. At the same time, you will have to choose from the following typical materials:

• foam or polystyrene boards;
• mineral roll insulation;
• plates or liquid polyurethane foam;
• basalt insulation;
• cellulose insulation material.

If we consider the main differences between external heaters, then they are in the degree of moisture resistance, vapor permeability and heat conductivity. In this case, the first two parameters should be selected based on the climate conditions of the region in which the structure was erected. In turn, the thermal conductivity of the material affects the thickness and installation of insulation, depending on the goals pursued.

Preparatory stage of work on insulation

Having selected a heat-insulating material that is suitable for the price and quality, you can proceed to the stage of external wall insulation. But for starters surface preparation in progress. If necessary, the old plaster is removed in some cases up to the foundation of the building. The result of this work should be Smooth surface brick or stone, it all depends on the material used in construction.

An important role is played by the primer, which is often neglected by people conducting self repair. If differences or other wall defects that exceed a few centimeters are found, they are sealed with mortar. The most suitable primer is deep penetration. To obtain an even thermal insulation layer that will not interfere with the following steps finishing works need in advance install beacons on a plumb line. This will allow you to outline the outer plane of the wall, which will facilitate the installation work.

Self-tapping screws are fixed on the upper edge of the wall surface, to which a construction cord is tied, which is supplied with a load at the end and lowers to the very bottom of the wall. Horizontal ropes are pulled between the extreme cords to form a control grid, which will be the main reference point during installation. external thermal insulation. Then they proceed to fastening sheets of material, the installation of which differs depending on the characteristics of the insulation.

We insulate the wall of the house from the outside with polystyrene foam

Insulation sheets are attached to the wall with adhesive and additionally fixed with dowels. The reliability of the dowels will directly affect the quality of the insulation retention under strong wind loads. In this case, there are two main types of dowels with a standard and extended spacer zone. At the same time, standard fasteners are used to fix polystyrene foam on concrete and brick walls. In turn, it is advisable to use elongated dowels for walls made of porous material – foam block, lightweight concrete, etc..

Plates of polystyrene insulation have one significant drawback - the high combustibility of the material. Although manufacturers were able to solve this problem through the use of new technologies in manufacturing. Therefore, it is the resistance of the material to fire that must be given Special attention when choosing.

After the adhesive composition is applied to the surface of the wall, proceed to fixing the plates. Glue is applied in sufficient volume so that the composition completely fills all the irregularities. The insulation plate is tightly pressed against the wall surface, while excess adhesive solution comes out from under it, falling under the adjacent plate, due to which the joints become more reliable. After that, the plate is additionally fixed with dowels in the corners and in the center of the product. Neighboring joints of plates, as well as dowel caps, are smeared with mastic.

After laying the outer insulation perform reinforcement of the resulting structure. To do this, use a fiberglass mesh, and, if necessary, metal products. The plates are opened with adhesive compositions, on which the mesh is laid, by pressing against the heat insulator. For greater reliability, the mesh is fastened with an overlap. After the adhesive composition dries, it is sanded and proceed to the application of the finish. The most popular is decorative plaster, which, after drying, is opened with a layer of weather-resistant paint.

Liquid polyurethane foam - quality and durability

One of the most interesting and effective ways External wall insulation is considered to be polyurethane foam. The liquid insulation has many advantages over board materials. The preparation of the material takes place immediately before applying the insulation to the wall surface. In addition, polyurethane foam is there some more whole line advantages:

The process of installing polyurethane foam itself consists of spraying a layer of heat-insulating polymers on wall surfaces of any shape, followed by hardening of the insulation. In a special container mixing of two polymers foaming with carbon dioxide. The resulting composition is sprayed from a pistol onto the surface of the wall, covering it with an even layer.

On finishing stage insulation is applied over the heat-insulating layer decorative trim. Thanks to this topcoat, the insulation will be completely protected from exposure external factors environment. Plus, it will improve the aesthetic appeal of the building.

Only by choosing the right material for external wall insulation and only if technological process by installing it, the homeowner can be sure that his house will be cool in summer and warm in winter for a long time.

How to choose the best insulation for the walls of the house outside. The most comfortable for residential premises are the temperature within 20-25ºС and humidity from 50 to 60%. To ensure such a microclimate in the house, it is necessary to take care of the thermal insulation of the walls. The optimal outside is selected taking into account the material of construction and must meet a number of requirements. The main criterion for any thermal insulation material is the coefficient of its thermal conductivity. The smaller this value, the better material prevents heat from escaping into the environment.

Fact! Through the walls, the dwelling loses up to 30% of heat.

How best to insulate the walls of the house

There are two ways to insulate a building - apply internal insulation of the premises or make insulation for the walls of the house from the outside. What is the best heater to use? The answer is hidden in a short expression - "dew point".

Thermal insulation of the room from the outside will ensure the correct location of the dew point

The dew point is the temperature at which condensation occurs. A point with this temperature can be located in the thickness of the wall, inside it or outside. Its coordinates depend on physical properties wall materials, the thickness of their layers, as well as the external and internal temperature and humidity.

Important! The position of the dew point will be more optimal even in a completely uninsulated wall than in one that is only insulated from the inside.

The correct location of the dew point (outside the wall) can only be obtained by installing the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside, selected taking into account the properties of the material and the thermal calculation of the thickness.

The better to insulate the walls from the outside

Each of the types of modern insulation for the walls of the house outside has its own characteristics and price range. But their main differences are:

• low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• minimum values ​​of water absorption and vapor permeability;
• the ability to regulate the microclimate in the room;
• high sound absorption rates;
• ecological cleanliness;
• fire resistance and fire safety;
• resistance to chemical attack;

Comparative table of thermal conductivity of building materials

• resistance to biological and mechanical influences (molds, insects, rodents);
• strength and durability;
• elasticity and lack of shrinkage;
• low weight;
• the possibility of installation without seams, joints, voids;
• ability to fill complex and hard-to-reach areas;
• ease of installation.

It is also important to take into account the way in which the consumer prefers to mount insulation for the walls of the house outside. Video showing the opportunity self-fulfillment Works (as well as other manuals) in our time can be found enough.

The optimal insulation for walls is selected taking into account the material of construction

Water absorption and vapor permeability are taken into account to ensure maximum protection of the premises from moisture and are selected taking into account the characteristics of the climate and depending on the method of installation. Thermal conductivity is used to calculate required thickness thermal insulation material. The most commonly used types of heaters are:

• expanded polystyrene (polystyrene);
• extruded polystyrene foam (epps, penoplex);
• polyurethane foam;
• mineral wool;
• basalt heaters;
• liquid insulation.

Styrofoam is a popular material for insulating the walls of a house from the outside.

Expanded polystyrene (styrofoam)

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene) is one of the modern polymeric insulation for house walls and is used as such in almost all areas of the construction industry: civil and industrial. First of all, this material is distinguished by low coefficients of thermal conductivity (from 0.037 to 0.052 W/m*K, depending on the density) and water absorption, resistance to biological and chemical influences, and high soundproofing and windproof properties. It belongs to the group of environmentally friendly substances and is quite durable: its service life exceeds 50 years.

Fact! A layer of foam plastic with a thickness of 50 mm is equivalent to a wall of one and a half bricks in terms of the degree of heat retention.

Expanded polystyrene - easy to install and has a small weight

Other advantages include flexibility and light weight. This helps to reduce the cost of delivery and installation, ease of work, reduce the load on the walls, which, in turn, eliminates the need for additional strengthening of the foundation. The disadvantage of expanded polystyrene is its combustibility, however, the low price makes it possible to insulate all the walls of the house from the outside with polystyrene foam.

Extruded polystyrene foam (epps, penoplex)

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) is one of the latest generation of thermal insulation materials. In its manufacture, graphite is used in the form of nanoparticles, which increases the strength and energy saving of the product.

Insulation of walls with foam plastic, followed by cladding with siding

The coefficient of thermal conductivity of the penoplex insulation ranges from 0.029 - 0.031 W / m * K. It is mildew resistant chemical substances, insects and rodents, and is an excellent sound insulator. Due to this, it is possible to use penoplex as a heater outside: for walls wooden houses and other buildings, as well as inside: thermal insulation of ceilings (especially when installing "warm" floors), basements, balconies and loggias.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a type of plastic with a cellular foam structure. The mass of cells filled with air is 90% of the total weight of the product. Due to this, the value of the thermal conductivity coefficient of polyurethane foam is one of the lowest - from 0.023 to 0.041 W / m * K.

Liquid polyurethane foam creates an airtight coating with excellent vapor and waterproofing

Polyurethane foam is different high level adhesion with all types of surfaces: concrete, brick, wood, metal - due to which an airtight coating is created with a guarantee of excellent vapor and waterproofing. The seamless method of application (using a compressor and a hose) and high elasticity make polyurethane foam an indispensable material for blown thermal insulation when insulating walls outside of buildings of complex shapes and frame houses. Insulation for walls outside by blowing can be applied at temperatures up to 100ºС, the service life is up to 30 years.

Liquid polyurethane foam can be used as a blown insulation between the wall of the building and the cladding

The only disadvantage of the material is its high cost and the need to use expensive equipment for installation.

Mineral wool (basalt insulation, stone wool, glass wool)

Mineral wool is a product of processing slag (waste from the metallurgical industry) or rocks: basalt and dolomite. Differs in durability, incombustibility, durability, environmental friendliness, elasticity, high degree of sound absorption, ease of installation and low cost. The thermal conductivity of this material is in the range of 0.034 - 0.037 W / m * K.

Mineral wool is characterized by fire resistance, environmental friendliness, high degree of sound absorption and low cost.

For insulation works, mineral wool is used in the form of basalt slabs or in rolls with a wide range of sizes. Mineral wool is used as a heater for the walls of the house outside. The dimensions of the boards produced can be as follows:

• 1000 x 600 x 50 mm;
• 7000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
• 9000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
• 10000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
• 10000 x 1200 x 100 mm.

Expanded polystyrene plates can have docking grooves for ease of installation

Basalt insulation is used in buildings of any purpose, in particular - for insulation in the country, wooden houses and buildings made of timber, brick or foam blocks. It is possible to carry out work with this material at a temperature in the range from -60ºС to +220ºС, which is definitely convenient when mounted on walls from the outside. Insulation in the country, houses made of wood, brick or foam blocks, garages, warehouses and other buildings - this is an incomplete list of the possibilities for using mineral thermal insulation.

It is most preferred to use mineral wool for insulation of the house from the outside with subsequent cladding with siding

It is most preferable to use mineral wool or basalt slabs when installing insulation for the walls of the house outside under the siding. It is also popular to use mineral wool (along with polyurethane foam) to create blown insulation. With this method, with the help of a compressor unit, the material is blown between the wall of the house and the finishing facade, which also serves as a formwork.

Liquid thermal insulation

Liquid heat-insulating materials can be called heaters of a new generation. It is possible to use them both for thermal insulation of metal parts (pipes or frames), and as a heater for houses made of foam blocks. Outside, on the walls, these ceramic multi-component substances look like acrylic paint. However, they differ from paint in the content of vacuumized voids (up to 80%), due to which they acquire the properties of a heat insulator.

Liquid heaters are similar to acrylic paint

Interesting! Liquid heaters have a record low coefficient of thermal conductivity (from 0.0011 to 0.0015 W / m * K). For comparison, the thermal conductivity of vacuum is 0.

With a liquid consistency, these materials do not require professional skills and sophisticated equipment for application to any surface: concrete, brick, metal, wood. They are applied using paint tools: brushes, rollers, airless spray guns - and fill all voids and crevices. After 6 hours of drying, a solid, highly resistant to mechanical stress coating is formed.

Fixing sheets of foam or expanded polystyrene is carried out with special fasteners such as "fungus"

Due to the low thermal conductivity, liquid insulation for the walls of the house helps to reduce heat loss, even if applied from the outside in a thin layer. They protect the surface from weather influences (operational temperature range - from -60 to + 260 ° C), solar radiation and precipitation, and metal parts from corrosion.

Interesting! Water absorption of most liquid heaters within 24 hours does not exceed 0.4% by weight.

Coating with liquid insulation is one of the most effective ways to prevent the formation of condensate and protect industrial or residential premises from freezing, the development of all types of mold fungi.

Ways to insulate the walls of the house from the outside

Most modern heaters are universal and can be mounted outside the house on any walls: wood, timber, foam blocks, red or white brick; as well as for various types exterior finish: plaster, vinyl siding, decorative brick, stone facade slabs. After reviewing all the characteristics, you can choose the appropriate type of wall insulation. Outside, houses made of timber are insulated similarly to buildings made of other materials. Based on the variety of existing thermal insulation materials, for each type of wall, in combination with its finish, is selected the best option Mounting :

1. Installation of insulation under plaster.
2. Three-layer non-ventilated wall.
3. Ventilated facade.

Examples of wall insulation followed by brick cladding

Installation of insulation under plaster

When installing insulation under plaster, for the walls of houses outside, polystyrene foam, basalt insulation boards, sheets of mineral wool or foam insulation are most often used as a heat insulator. The insulation is fixed on the walls of the house from the outside with the help of an adhesive solution and reinforced with a fiberglass reinforcing mesh. Special mounts type "fungus" additional fixation of foam sheets or basalt insulation boards is performed. For the walls of the house outside, plaster is used as a finish (the “wet facade” method) or facing materials.

Insulation system "wet facade"

Three-layer non-ventilated wall

A three-layer non-ventilated wall is formed by the walls of the house from the outside, insulation and facade decoration, laid out taking into account the air gap. This method is used when installing with finishing for the walls of the house outside under the brick. Heaters various kinds are used in this variant, including heat-insulating materials for forced-air installation. This method is used for the insulation of various buildings, both brick or foam concrete, and wooden or timber.

Non-ventilated facade with blown insulation

Facade finishing is carried out with facing slabs, decorative or building bricks.

Ventilated facade

Insulation from a heater for a ventilated facade is assembled from the following layers:

• waterproofing;
• insulation;
• wind protection;
• finishing facade cladding (lining, siding, panels).

The principle of arrangement of a ventilated facade

Installation of insulation as part of a ventilated facade is the most preferred option, since heat losses are minimized due to wind protection. Also, waterproofing provides additional protection of the surface of the walls from moisture. The use of a ventilated facade is possible with most types of buildings, materials and configurations of external walls and varieties facade decoration. This option is most common when installing insulation for the walls of the house outside under the siding. Also, this installation method is the best for warming the outside walls of wooden houses: from a log or from a bar.

Insulated walls can be lined with material for every taste

Regardless of the variety and type of material used as a heat insulator, any of the mentioned installation options should cope with the main tasks - room insulation, wall waterproofing, protection from wind and drafts, as well as heat preservation. The undoubted advantage of most of the materials mentioned in the article is the ability to independently install them as insulation for the walls of the house from the outside. Photo and video clips, as well as other instructions, will be very useful in this case.

Now more and more often the insulation of buildings is used outside. This also applies to private houses and high-rise buildings. By insulating the walls from the outside, you can save up to 50% of energy resources on heating and air conditioning, so that the cost of thermal insulation sometimes pays off in less than five years.

However, before embarking on thermal insulation measures, you need to decide on the choice of insulation, which better fit in a particular case. It is also important to choose which of the methods of insulation from the outside will be more suitable. These are the questions we will consider next.

Why is insulation better outside

External wall insulation is used more often than internal insulation for several reasons.

1. Does not deal with thermal insulation of the living space. This is especially true in small apartments and small houses, because the insulation with sheathing reaches 7-8 cm, which significantly reduces the already small living space.
2. Outside, you can put a much larger layer of insulation, which will, as a result, give a much better heat-insulating effect.
3. External wall insulation is combined with any type of modern finishes, for example, by siding, so that a dilapidated facade can be updated
4. The seams between the slabs are closed in case of insulation from the outside of multi-storey block houses.
5. The building material from which the walls are built is protected, thereby extending its service life.
6. A home insulated from the outside, clad in siding, or plastered with a modern decorative mix will skyrocket in value, so insulation is a good investment.

What technologies are used for external insulation

External thermal insulation provides for several methods, among which the most common are three main methods.

1. Wet insulation technology when sheet heat-insulating material is glued to the wall, followed by additional fastening with dowels with a mushroom-shaped perforated cap. Further, the surface is reinforced with a special fiberglass mesh, which is mounted on a layer of plaster adhesive. After a full cycle of surface preparation, one of the types of decorative plaster coating is applied to it, which, after drying, is painted with tinted water-based paint.
2. Way hinged facade , which is somewhat reminiscent of intra-wall insulation. In this case, the heat insulator is fixed to the existing surface, in the same way as with the method described above. Next, the exterior masonry is erected, which is then plastered and painted. It is possible to make an external masonry from decorative brick to avoid the need for finishing. A ventilation gap is left between the wall surface and the heat-insulating layer.
3. The most popular, especially for external insulation of private houses, is ventilated facade technology. In the case of the implementation of this option, a crate is constructed, which is intended for sheathing with thermal panels or siding. Between the guides of such a frame, a heat-insulating material is laid, which is fastened either in a spacer between the elements of the crate, or with the help of mushroom-like dowels. Outside, a windproof film is fixed, which protects against moisture, including if a hygroscopic heat insulator is used. The last step here is sheathing with siding or some similar finishing facing.

The choice of one of the methods described above depends on the type of building, its number of storeys, the material from which the walls are built. So, with external thermal insulation of the walls of high-rise buildings, it is better to use the “wet” method. When insulating private houses, the construction of a ventilated facade with siding is preferable. Depending on the technology used, preferences for a particular thermal insulation material change.

What types of heaters exist

All the most common thermal insulation materials used outside are divided into natural and polymeric. The first ones include:

• mineral heaters (mineral wool, glass wool);
• cellulose heat insulators (ecowool).

Polymers are:

• Styrofoam;
• penoplex;
• polyurethane foam.

Now let's look at each type in more detail.

Mineral wool insulation materials

Mineral wool is used both for mounting on walls with subsequent finishing decorative plaster, and for arranging a ventilated facade cladding system with siding.

In the first case, mineral wool mats 100x60 cm in size are used, which are attached to the wall with glue and dowels, reinforced with fiberglass mesh, which sits on plaster glue.

The second option involves the construction of a frame, on which siding is sewn as a final cladding. Here it is better to use mineral wool of medium density. Considering that the insulation is capable of absorbing moisture, while deteriorating its thermal insulation qualities, it is necessary both from the side of the wall and from the outside to make waterproofing protection with a special perforated film. Before installing the siding, it is better to make a counter-lattice to ensure that there is a ventilation gap.

Outside insulation with ecowool

For insulation with ecowool, it is also necessary to equip the frame for siding.

First, a crate is made. Then a heater is applied to the wall, which is a cellulose mass mixed in certain proportions with water. Ecowool sticks to the wall, forming a continuous seamless heat-insulating layer. After drying, the excess is removed that is outside the outer plane of the crate. Then a layer of wind protection is laid, a counter-lattice is made and siding or a material similar in function is sewn on.

Thermal insulation with styrofoam and polystyrene foam

These sheet heaters are mainly used for arranging a "wet" facade. They are very convenient in work and subsequent finishing. Due to the fact that foam plastic is much stronger than foam plastic, it is better to use it at the bottom of the building, where there is a high probability of mechanical damage.

Above the level of one and a half to two meters from the surface of the earth, it is more expedient to use polystyrene foam, since it is much cheaper than polystyrene foam and this will help make thermal insulation more economical.

How walls are insulated from the outside with polyurethane foam

The method of thermal insulation using polyurethane foam spraying is in many ways similar to the method of applying ecowool. The scheme is the same - crate, spraying insulation, sheathing with finishing cladding. The difference is that, unlike "breathing" ecowool, polyurethane foam does not let moisture or steam through, so it is not suitable for, say, thermal insulation of wooden walls. But they can be much better than sheet materials to insulate walls made of brick, concrete or cinder block.

In this article, we briefly told you about the materials for wall insulation from the outside, so that you can decide which one is best suited in a particular case.

External thermal insulation gives a much better effect than warming the house from the inside. In addition to the main functions, the insulation protects the walls from precipitation, mechanical damage, weathering and thus prolongs the life of the entire building. Installation of insulation does not require special knowledge or skills, and most homeowners can easily cope with this task on their own. But in order to do everything as efficiently as possible, you need to know what materials there are for insulating walls from the outside, and how to fix them correctly.

Despite the fact that the operating conditions outside and inside the house are strikingly different, in both cases the same materials can be used. However, when choosing a heater, preference should be given to those options that best meet the following requirements:

• increased resistance to shrinkage;
• resistance to mechanical damage;
• resistance to ultraviolet;
• durability;
• ease of installation;
• resistance to insects and microorganisms.

For wooden houses, the vapor transmission capacity of the insulation is also important, because wooden walls should "breathe". As a rule, finishing coatings for facades are designed for long-term operation, and it is too troublesome and not always advisable to remove them every few years to replace worn-out thermal insulation. At the same time, if the insulation under the finish is compressed, cracked, starts to rot or mice gnaw it, it will no longer be able to retain heat, which means that it will not be possible to do without repair. That is why it is so important that the selected material fully meets the specified criteria.

Types of thermal insulation materials

At the moment, the construction market offers the following materials for home insulation:

All of them differ in technical characteristics, installation technology, have different service life. Moreover, each of them is suitable for outdoor use and has its own advantages. Let's consider these materials in more detail.

Mineral wool is made from fine fibers obtained by melting and pulverizing glass, blast-furnace slag or rocks. Depending on the location of the fibers, the structure of the insulation can be corrugated, vertically layered and horizontally layered, have different density and thickness. Each type of mineral wool has its own characteristics:

Mineral wool is produced in slabs and mats with various options coatings - kraft paper, aluminium foil, fiberglass. In terms of cost, basalt insulation is the most expensive, and the higher its density, the more expensive it is.

Benefits of mineral wool:

• the fine-fiber structure promotes the free passage of air and water vapor, so the risk of condensation on the insulated surface is minimal;
• due to the mineral base, the material is not subject to combustion, which means it is additional protection walls from fire;
• the insulation has a relatively high moisture resistance, and therefore effectively prevents the penetration of dampness into the house;
• mineral wool perfectly absorbs sounds and vibrations, and street noise almost does not penetrate into the insulated room;
• the insulation is lightweight, easy to process, thanks to its elasticity, it quickly restores its shape after crushing during installation;
• in mineral wool microorganisms, insects do not develop, rodents do not like it.

Flaws:

• mineral wool has a tendency to shrink, and the lower the density of the material, the faster the deformation occurs. Rigid basalt slabs are the least susceptible to shrinkage, but due to the high cost, not everyone can afford such thermal insulation;
• when wet for a long time, the insulation is saturated with moisture and loses its thermal insulation qualities;
• microscopic fibers are easily destroyed when squeezing and cutting the material, and then settle on the skin, causing irritation, and can enter the eyes and lungs. Glass wool is considered the most dangerous in this regard, but with other types of mineral wool, at least gloves and a respirator should be used.

Popular brands of mineral wool.

Prices for mineral wool

Styrofoam and XPS

Expanded polystyrene insulations are excellent thermal insulators due to their closed cell structure. Almost 98% of the material is air or an inert gas enclosed in sealed cells, so the insulation weighs very little. Both polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam practically do not absorb moisture, which means they are great for insulating foundations, plinths, basements. When thermally insulating facades, these materials serve as the basis for applying plaster.

Advantages:

• polystyrene foam insulation weighs little and is easy to process during installation, so even a beginner can handle it. In addition, such thermal insulation does not exert a large load on the base, which means that there is no need for additional reinforcement of the supporting structures;
• microorganisms cannot develop in expanded polystyrene, therefore fungi and mold are not afraid of the insulation;
• with proper installation, these materials serve for a long time, especially XPS - up to 50 years;
• polystyrene and EPPS are resistant to soap and saline solutions, alkalis, bleach and other chemically aggressive substances;
• installation does not require the use of protective equipment in the form of a respirator or gloves, since the insulation does not emit toxic fumes or small particles, and does not cause irritation.

Flaws:

• expanded polystyrene refers to vapor-tight materials, and therefore cannot be used for insulating wooden walls;
• the insulation is destroyed upon contact with solvents, drying oil, some types of varnishes, as well as under the influence of sunlight;
• soundproofing properties are much lower than those of mineral wool insulation;
• already at + 30 degrees, polystyrene foam begins to release harmful substances- toluene, styrene, formaldehyde and others. When burning, the amount of toxic emissions increases significantly.

On domestic market EPPS of domestic production - Penoplex and Tepleks, as well as polystyrene foam insulation of the Ursa, GREENPLEX, PRIMAPLEX brands are in great demand.

Styrofoam prices

Styrofoam

Cellulose insulation

Cellulose insulation, which is also called ecowool, is made from paper waste and waste paper. Ecowool consists of 80% cellulose fibers, the remaining 20% ​​are antiseptics and fire retardants. The material is densely stuffed into all irregularities and voids and forms a dense seamless coating with high vapor permeability. Installation of insulation is carried out in two ways - dry and wet-glue, and both options can be performed both manually and using a special installation.

The dry method allows you to perform thermal insulation in a short time and immediately proceed to finishing. But at the same time, the coating density will not be high enough, which will lead to shrinkage and the appearance of cold bridges. In addition, dry blowing produces a large number of fine dust and have to work in a respirator.

The wet-glue method provides better adhesion of the insulation to the base, the layer is much denser and more resistant to shrinkage, which guarantees the durability of the thermal insulation. True, it takes time for the material to dry - from 2 to 3 days, and even more in cold or wet weather. And until the layer is completely dry, you can not start finishing.

Advantages:

• environmental Safety;
• excellent heat and sound insulation properties;
• resistance to bacteria, fungi, insects;
• fire resistance;
• long service life;
• affordable price.

• tendency to shrink;
• high hygroscopicity;
• the complexity of doing the work manually.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam, or PPU, belongs to a new generation of insulation and has improved characteristics compared to traditional materials. It is a liquid polymer mixture, which, after application to the surface, hardens and forms a durable coating with a cellular structure. The components are mixed immediately before starting work, and the finished solution is applied by spraying using a special installation.

Advantages:

• the liquid mixture easily fills all the bumps, cracks, recesses, is conveniently applied in hard-to-reach places;
• the material perfectly retains heat and muffles sounds;
• PPU is resistant to chemically aggressive substances, practically does not absorb water, withstands sudden changes in temperature;
• can be applied to any type of surface - wood, concrete, brick, metal;
• the insulation is very light, therefore it does not require strengthening of the supporting bases;
• the average service life is 25-30 years.

• polyurethane foam is destroyed under the influence of sunlight;
• spraying requires equipment and skills to work with it;
• PPU can not be used in areas that are very hot;
• high cost of material and services of specialists.

wall insulation technology

Thermal insulation of the facade can be performed in different ways, depending on the type of insulation. But for all options, a prerequisite is high-quality preparation of the base, because not a single insulation can stop the processes of destruction of wall materials. Consider the methods of insulation with mineral wool and polystyrene foam boards, as the most popular in frequent construction.

Warming with mineral wool

Exterior walls are cleaned of dirt, peeling plaster or paint. They repair cracks and problem areas, be sure to treat the places affected by the fungus. Small irregularities do not need to be eliminated - the mineral wool insulation is mounted using a frame, so all defects will hide inside. Finally, the walls are covered with a waterproof primer with antiseptic properties so that mold does not develop under the thermal insulation layer.

Step 1. The bars for the frame are cut to desired length, treated on all sides with antiseptic impregnation and air-dried.

Advice. The cross section of the bars should be selected taking into account the thickness of the heat-insulating layer. That is, if plates with a thickness of 50 mm are laid in one row, the thickness of the frame should be 5-6 cm, with two-layer laying - at least 11 cm. on the edge.

Step 2 On the walls, markings are made for the frame guides strictly according to the level, holes are drilled for fasteners and bars are installed. The distance between the posts should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the insulation board. During installation, control the location of the elements building level, if necessary, use wooden linings under the beam so that all the racks are in the same plane.

Step 3. Insulation is inserted into the cells of the frame. To do this, the plates are slightly squeezed along the edges, pressed between the racks and released. The material spreads out on its own and densely fills the space. The insulation must be inserted so that there are no gaps between the plates.

Step 4 After filling all the cells from above, the insulation must be closed with a windproof moisture-proof membrane. The membrane is laid with the marked side outward, the sheets are arranged horizontally, starting from the bottom. The membrane is used to fix construction stapler. The top sheet is overlapped by 8-10 cm, and it is recommended to glue the joints with adhesive tape.

Step 5. Filled over the membrane wooden slats counter-lattices 30-40 mm thick to provide an air gap. If this is not done, condensation will accumulate on the insulation, moisture will nourish wooden frame and the design will quickly become unusable.

After that, it remains only to mount top coat, for example, siding or corrugated board. The finish must completely cover the heat-insulating layer so that precipitation does not fall on the plates. Only under such conditions the material will last long and efficiently.

The last step - decorative facade decoration

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

This method of insulation is noticeably different from the previous one. First, the base must be leveled so that the material fits snugly against the surface. Secondly, the installation is carried out without a crate, the plates are attached to the glue and dowels-fungi.

Step 1. Prepared walls are primed with quartz sand, for example, Betokontakt. If the base is porous, the primer is applied in 2 layers.

Step 2 The lower boundary of the thermal insulation is determined and a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of the house. Holes for dowels are drilled according to the marking in increments of 20-30 cm and the starting bar is fixed.

Starter bar fixed

Step 3 To fix the insulation, you need a special glue. You can use canned mounting adhesive, such as TYTAN STYRO 753, or a dry adhesive mix (Ceresit CT 83). The mixture is diluted in clean water according to the manufacturer's instructions, mix until smooth with a mixer at low speed.

They take the first sheet, apply glue on the back side with a continuous strip along the perimeter and in the center. Next, they apply a heater to the wall, resting the bottom edge on the starting profile, check the location with a level, firmly press it to the base.

Step 4 Fix the entire row, tightly joining the sheets together. The next row starts with half a sheet to offset the vertical seams. Excess glue that has come out at the joints is carefully removed with a spatula.

Step 5 When the glue has hardened, each sheet must be fixed with dish-shaped dowels. To do this, carefully drill holes in the wall through the insulation, insert dowels and carefully hammer them with a hammer. 5 fasteners are required per sheet - in each corner and in the center.

Step 6 Next, the adhesive solution is kneaded, applied in a continuous layer on the insulation, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is laid on top and recessed in the solution. Openings and corners are additionally reinforced with corner profiles.

When the solution dries, the surface is sanded, dusted and plastered with a thin layer. Now it remains only to paint the facade or apply decorative plaster.

Prices for Ceresit glue

Glue Ceresit

Video - Materials for wall insulation outside

Video - Insulation of the facade with foam plastic

30% of the heat from the house goes through the walls. This has been proven by research. Therefore, in order to reduce heat loss, it is recommended, and not from the inside. Firstly, internal thermal insulation- This is a decrease in the space of rooms. Secondly, the dew point passes under the insulation, that is, between the wall and the heat-insulating layer. This means that the wall will freeze through, which will affect its technical condition. Today, manufacturers of thermal insulation materials offer a wide range of their products. But the question of which one to choose does not become less relevant. Insulation for the walls of the house outside (price, specifications, installation methods) is the most important component of construction. Therefore, his choice must be approached with special care.

Read in the article

Criteria for choosing insulation for the exterior walls of the house

The main indicator by which you need to make a choice,. The smaller it is, the better. The second criterion is hygroscopicity. This property is referred to as - to absorb moisture. The thing is that moist air vapors that have penetrated inside at low temperatures will begin to turn into ice, which will negate all the characteristics of the heat-insulating material. They learned to deal with this by covering the insulation layer on both sides with vapor and waterproofing films. But this is another material cost. Although in some cases this is not enough.

The third criterion is strength. The outer side of the wall is a section that is often subjected to various loads, including mechanical ones. And although the heat-insulating layer will still need to be closed, this does not mean that the strength of the insulation must be approached from the position - "this is an unimportant component."

The fourth rule of choice is the price of the product. There is a fairly wide range, in which there are both very cheap materials and very expensive ones. Of course, the quality determines the price. But there are offers on the market in which the price-quality ratio is within the optimal limits. Therefore, it is worth understanding all the proposed heaters and choosing not the most expensive, but with good technical and operational characteristics.

Types of thermal insulation materials for wall insulation outside

Thermal insulation for walls outside is a few modern materials belonging to the categories of fibrous and cellular.

1. The group of the first includes mineral wool: stone, glass, slag. The first is made from various rocks, which are melted and drawn into threads, then they are woven in a chaotic manner. For the second, the raw material is glass, for the third, waste from blast furnaces (slags). Three species have an increased coefficient of hygroscopicity.
2. The second group includes polymeric materials, which receive a cellular structure during the production process. It can be closed or open. The first option is better, because such heaters do not absorb moisture.

Consider a few basic insulation for walls outside, denote their technical characteristics.

The table shows those characteristics that are not related to the density of the material. Because manufacturers offer models with different densities, hence the purpose of each brand. For example, P-75 insulation has a density of 75 kg / m³. Such wool is recommended to be used for thermal insulation of surfaces that are not subjected to large mechanical loads. That is, for the insulation of walls outside the house, this option is just right. Although it is necessary to take into account the fact that this material does not have the highest strength. It is optimal for reinforced concrete walls to use PZh-175 cotton wool.

Attention! Mineral wool is produced in rolls and in mats. For thermal insulation of walls, it is better to use the second form of manufacture.

Manufacturers today, for example, offer basalt wool in mats, one edge that compresses well, but straightens out when installed between frame elements. Thus, the material fits snugly to the frame, without creating cold bridges.

Polymer cellular insulation

The most famous insulation from this category is foam. In fact, these are polystyrene plates, in which the source material is only 2%, the rest is air. Hence the good thermal insulation performance, and low strength, and low price.

It should be noted that the foam that is used as packaging cannot be called a heater. That is, speaking of insulation for the exterior walls of the house, one must mean modified polystyrene foam boards.

Modified polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene boards for thermal insulation differ from packing polystyrene with increased density. The second is made by the non-pressing method, hence its low strength characteristics. Styrofoam boards are molded under pressure using high temperatures, due to which their density increases, and, accordingly, their strength.

There is also the so-called extruded polystyrene foam in this category, its prominent representative is the plates produced under the brand name. This is still the same polymer insulation, only the technology of its production is based on the melting of the feedstock, followed by the addition of a foaming agent and pressure molding, or rather, extrusion. This process is called extrusion. Wherein this technology allows you to cast any shape of the product, not just plates.

So, let's compare three foam polystyrene insulation; non-pressed - PSB, pressed - PS, extruded - XPS.

Now, as for the insulation of the house from the outside with foam, that is, a non-pressed model. This material has a high water absorption rate. Therefore, in any case, it will have to be closed. Warming the house outside with Penoplex is an opportunity not only not to close the heat-insulating layer with waterproofing, but also to apply wet types of finishes to it: and.

Again, pay attention to density. All other parameters depend on it. The denser the plate, the higher the quality of its characteristics.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

This is the best insulation with the lowest thermal conductivity - 0.019 ÷ 0.03 W / (m × K). At the same time, the polymer has other high characteristics:

• does not absorb water;
• does not let steam through;
• high chemical resistance;
• attached to any building materials without additional fasteners;
• low G1, some types of PPU are self-extinguishing types;
• material density is 30÷80 kg/m³;
• service life of at least 30 years.

Attention! Polyurethane foam is prepared at the construction site by combining two components: polyol and isocyanate. Mixing with each other, they form a liquid mixture, which is applied to the wall for thermal insulation. In the air, the insulation turns into a solid and durable material.

That is, for carrying out heat-insulating measures with polyurethane foam, special equipment is needed, where the mixing of the two components is carried out. The insulation itself is applied under pressure to the insulated surfaces.

Alternative solutions - liquid wall insulation

The term "liquid insulation" for walls and other structures is just slang among the inhabitants. This material is a mastic or, which includes:

• hollow microgranules in the form of spheres (0.02÷0.1 mm in diameter) made of ceramics, glass, polymers;
• microporous particles of titanium dioxide;
• binder, acrylic or latex is more often used.

Since the consistency of the material is liquid, it is applied to the treated surfaces in the usual ways: with a brush, roller or spray gun. At the same time, a small film thickness is formed on the surfaces - at least 1 mm. And it is enough to talk about thermal protection.

But why such a thin coating creates the effect of warming. Here you need to understand in what ways heat flows through the walls of the house.

1. thermal conductivity of the wall. That is, heat is transferred from a heated material to a cold one. IN liquid thermal insulation Only binding ingredients can transfer heat. And they are only 20% in the volume of insulation.
2. Convection. There are no options here, because in the composition of the heat-insulating material a large volume is occupied by granules filled with air.
3. Radiation. This is the transfer of thermal energy due to the energy state of the substance itself. Inside the mastic, 90% are balls that reflect thermal energy. That is, the material applied to the walls of the house creates the effect of a thermos.

Today, manufacturers of liquid thermal insulation offer different compositions that are used for different building structures. Since materials for wall insulation from the outside are being dismantled, it is necessary to choose a mastic intended for application to the facade of the building. Its name necessarily contains the word "Facade". For example, Korund-Facade, Bronya-Facade. Although many universal thermal paints can be used for thermal insulation of the external walls of buildings.

Here are the technical characteristics of Korund-Facade:

Ventilated facades

IN modern construction two varieties are used:

1. Traditional when applied directly to the wall surface with different ways mounts.
2. ventilated- this is when a gap remains between the wall and the cladding, which acts as ventilation. With its help, wet vapors and condensate are removed from the wall surface.

So in the first case, when the task is to insulate the wall, moisture-resistant materials are used. These include polystyrene foam boards made using extrusion technology. That is, if the question is raised of choosing a heater for the walls of the house outside under, then Penoplex is used. It is simply glued to the wall with a special adhesive composition or fasten with mushroom-shaped self-tapping screws. Polyurethane foam behaves well under wet coatings.

As for ventilated facades, any insulation from the above can be used here. Because this design, firstly, it is a frame, and secondly, it is possible to fix it in the form of a membrane, which will keep the insulation from the negative effects of moisture.

For example, how to properly use mineral wool in ventilated insulated facades.

1. The frame is stuffed onto the wall - these are vertical wooden ones, the distance between which should be slightly less than the width of the basalt mat.
2. A vapor barrier film with sag is laid. That is, it is attached to the frame, but the main canvas must be adjacent to the surface of the wall.
3. Insulation is placed between the elements of the crate.
4. A waterproofing membrane is stuffed over the frame structure.
5. According to the elements of the frame, exactly the same bars are installed and fastened.
6. On them, the cladding is mounted in the form of, and other sheet or panel products.

Three-layer wall construction

This wall insulation technology has been known for a long time. In fact, these are two walls, between which heat-insulating material is laid. The option is very good, but with some requirements specifically for the insulation, because this layer must work for a long time. Getting close to it if replacement or repair is required will be difficult, and often impossible. So there are two main requirements:

1. The material must be resistant to shrinkage. This can only be ensured by polystyrene boards of the PS or EPS brand with a density of at least 45 kg / m³.
2. Water absorption of thermal insulation should not exceed 1%. Referring to tables technical specifications and we see that only polystyrene foam boards made by extrusion are suitable for this requirement.

There are no other options, so Penoplex is used in this technology.

Rules for calculating insulation for house walls

We turn to a very important question, how to calculate the thickness of the insulation. To make it clear, we will consider it using the example of insulating a wall erected from a foam block with a thickness of 30 cm or 0.3 m. Basalt wool insulation, which from the outside will be covered with facing bricks 12 cm (0.12 m) thick.

Input data:

1. The thermal conductivity of the foam block is 0.26 W / (m × K).
2. The thermal conductivity of mineral wool is 0.045.
3. The thermal conductivity of a brick is 0.52.
4. The heat resistance of the region where the house is being built is 3.45 m² × ° C / W. This corresponds to an indoor temperature of +22°C.

R = H / λ , Where

H – material thickness,

λ is its thermal conductivity.

• Rс = 0.3 × 0.26 = 0.078 is the thermal resistance of the wall.
• Rc = 0.12 × 0.52 = 0.062 - This is an indicator for a brick.

The resistance of a region is the sum of the resistances of all the materials used in the construction of the house wall. That is:

R \u003d Rc + Rk + Ru , Where

Ru - this is the heat resistance of the insulation, and it must be found.

It turns out:

Ru \u003d R - Rc - Rk \u003d 3.45 - 0.078 - 0.062 \u003d 3.31.

From the formula: R=H/λ you can display the thickness of the insulation layer: H = R × λ = 3.31 × 0.045 = 0.15 m , or 15 cm, or 150 mm.