Classic brick fireplaces. Building a fireplace: types, place in the interior, design, coordination, manufacturing

Fire has always been at the service of man, and continues to be. But in most devices it is hidden from the human eye: it is located either in the depths of heating boilers or under dishes on the kitchen stove. But man’s instinctive craving for an open fire has never disappeared, which is why there is a constant desire to build a fireplace in one’s home. Those people who know how to do this - master stove makers, in the understanding of many people, have some kind of sacred knowledge that is inaccessible to the common man, although in fact the design of fireplaces is based on the laws of physics and engineering. And, in principle, anyone can comprehend this science - how to lay out a fireplace with your own hands. All you need is great desire and patience.

General information about fireplaces

A fireplace is essentially a stove, only its design is simplified. In most cases, it has an open firebox and its design is less massive, so it accumulates much less heat than a stove. The smoke channel of the fireplace is straight, without smoke circulation, the fuel burns faster than in a stove and a significant part of the heat flies out into the chimney. We can say that the fireplace has more of a decorative and aesthetic function than a heating one, but this in no way detracts from its advantages. An important advantage fireplace is the ability to very quickly heat a room with radiant heat from a burning flame. A large volume of oxygen burning in the firebox contributes to the supply of fresh air, provided that it is properly organized forced ventilation. Rooms where the fireplace is lit periodically will always be dry and free of musty odors, even in the absence of a main heating system.

Looking for how to do decorative fireplace with your own hands?
We invite you to familiarize yourself with step by step guide About, . In addition, in this material The process of finishing a fireplace with stucco and the stage of connecting the LED strip is shown in detail!

Modern fireplaces with a closed firebox can already be called a mini-oven, since they have convection heating of the air. The efficiency of such fireplaces is much higher, they burn fuel more completely and efficiently, they can heat not only one room, but even a small house. If the owners want to enjoy contemplating an open fire, the door can be opened, and in some models even raised.

Open fireplace design

Before you start arranging a fireplace, it will be useful to find out which structural elements it consists of, and their purpose. A cross-sectional diagram of the fireplace is shown in the figure.

Firebox or the firebox (3) of the fireplace - its main part, which is a niche made of fireproof material - fireclay bricks. This is where fuel combustion occurs.
Portal(5) – frames the firebox and performs a decorative function.
Under(2) – the lower part of the firebox is also made of fire-resistant material.
Grate(it is not visible on the diagram) serves to maintain fuel and supply air from below.
Ash pan(1) is designed to collect ash and is most often made in the form of a metal box.
Pre-furnace platform(12) limits sparks from the firebox from reaching the floor and is an element of fireplace decor.
The rear inclined part of the firebox (4) is also called mirror. Its task is to reflect heat from the firebox into the room. Mirror shapes smoke tooth(6), which is also called jib or smoke cornice. This important detail the fireplace prevents the mixing of air flows, soot loss and the penetration of smoke into the room.
Hilo(7) or smoke collector, collects combustion products from the firebox and transfers them through smoke neck(9) and retraction(10) in chimney (11).
Gate valve(8) or gate blocks the flow of cold air into the room from the street when the fireplace is not working, and also regulates draft.

Enter the requested values and click “CALCULATE THE DIMENSIONS OF THE CHIMNEY CHANNEL”

DIMENSIONS OF THE FIREWINDOW OF A FIREPLACE (or a stove with an open firebox)

Width L, millimeters

Height h, millimeters

PLANNED CHIMNEY PIPE PARAMETERS

Height, meters (from firebox to top)

Channel cross-sectional shape

For round and square chimneys, the calculator will show the recommended size - diameter or side length, respectively (in millimeters). At the same time, do not forget to promptly, when entering data, indicate the section shape in the appropriate field.

With a rectangle it is somewhat more complicated, since there may be options with the length of the sides. Therefore, for these cases it will be indicated optimal area section (in square centimeters), which can then be easily reduced to the linear parameters of the sides.

The final result is, of course, indicative, since it is almost always reduced to the standard dimensions of brickwork or manufactured pipes for chimney ducts. However, it will not allow you to make a serious mistake with your choice - you will always have the opportunity to choose the option that is closest to the calculated value.

At self-construction It is best to choose a ready-made standard project for the available space. As a rule, in such developments all the nuances are taken into account, and the proposed schemes themselves are already proven practical work designs.

Choosing a fireplace location

Construction of a fireplace requires considerable effort and investment. Money and so that all this does not go to waste, it must be properly placed in the room. First, let's look at how a fireplace can be located:

Fireplace built into the wall (A). Such a structure is usually erected during the construction of a house, or a section of the wall will have to be dismantled, which is very difficult. Such fireplaces have the advantage that they do not occupy the usable area of the heated room.
A wall-mounted fireplace (B) will already require space for its placement.
A corner fireplace (B) is very convenient in square-shaped rooms.
An island or free-standing fireplace (E) is very convenient to place in the geometric center of large rooms. His firebox may be open Withone side, but there are modern fireplaces in which the firebox is open with two, three and even completely open fireplaces.

Island fireplace - a modern and original solution

Now let's look at what places you can place a fireplace:

It is better not to place a fireplace in rooms smaller than 12 m2.
For any type of placement, the fireplace portal should be directed towards the center and there should be no obstacles on this path.
The fireplace should not be placed in air flow paths: between windows and doors, between two windows, etc.
There is no need to place the fireplace on the paths of people.
For built-in, wall-mounted and corner fireplaces There should be at least 1 meter of free wall space to the left and right of the fireplace.
The best place to place a fireplace is built-in or wall-mounted near the internal main walls of the room.

Materials for constructing a fireplace

The successful operation of even a perfectly built fireplace will largely depend on the materials that were used in its construction. The main one is brick. When fuel burns in a fireplace, the temperature in its firebox can reach 900 °C, which places increased demands on materials. Therefore, they use a special solid so-called stove brick, which can be of two types:

Red solid stove brick can withstand temperatures up to 1000 °C. In addition, it is very energy-intensive, it is capable of receiving, accumulating and distributing a large number of thermal energy. The brand of brick must be at least M200, the dimensions must not differ from the standard 250*120*65 mm by no more than 2 mm. When you hit a brick with a hammer, it should produce a clear and ringing sound.
Fireclay solid brick is used in places where the temperatures are highest and there is direct contact with fire. That is why the fireboxes of the fireplace are laid out with this kind of brick. In its production, special dense fireclay clays are used, which make up approximately 70% of its composition. Fireclay brick is able to withstand high temperatures for a long time, accumulate and transfer heat. The dimensions of fireclay bricks may differ from standard ones, as can be seen from the table. Fireclay bricks of a special shape are also produced for laying fireplace arches.

When choosing a brick, you should not trust the assurances of the manufacturer and seller that absolutely all bricks are of the same high quality. You should personally check each brick upon purchase. It will take a lot of time, but the result will please you for many years. What to pay attention to:

You need to hit the brick with a hammer. It should produce a ringing sound; fireclay bricks produce more of a metallic sound.
The actual dimensions should not differ from the standard ones by more than 2 mm.
Upon external examination, if films similar to mica were noticed on the surface, this means that temperature regime The firing of the brick has been disrupted and should not be selected.
The color of both red and fireclay bricks should be even over the entire surface. A good fireclay brick should have straw yellow color, and white indicates insufficient firing.
When choosing, be sure to look at the split bricks from the same batch. Red brick should not have foreign inclusions or darker areas. The internal structure of fireclay bricks should not be much darker than the external surface. At strong impact Using a hammer, the fireclay brick should split into large pieces.

The number of bricks is determined from the data of a specific project. Each fireplace project must include a calculation of the materials used. In this case, one must be guided by the fact that even half or a third of a brick should be considered whole when purchasing. The total number of bricks of each type should be 10% more than calculated, as there will be an inevitable battle.

In order to lay out you will also need special fireplace equipment, which can be purchased at construction stores or in the markets. Its dimensions are selected to match the existing fireplace design. Such equipment includes a grate, an ash pan and a gate valve for the required section of the chimney.

Mortars for laying fireplaces

Conventional cement-based masonry mortars are absolutely unsuitable for laying fireplaces. The point is that when exposed to high temperatures All solids have the property of expanding. The expansion of brick and cement-sand mortar is different, so inevitable cracks will appear, the connection between the mortar and the base will be disrupted and, in the end, such masonry will inevitably collapse.

The basis of masonry mortars for stoves and fireplaces is clay and sand - those materials that are contained in the composition of bricks. The percentage of components is not a constant value, it depends on the quality and fat content of the clay, so each time the composition of the solution is selected empirically. Cement can also be included in solutions, but its amount is relatively small.

The solution must have a structure uniform throughout the entire volume, normal plasticity, and have no lumps. Only such a solution will have good adhesion to the brick, will not crack when dry, and shrinkage will be moderate.
A solution that is too greasy is most tempting to use, as it is easy to level and apply, and it is easier for them to make a thin and beautiful seam. But in the future these temptations will “come out sideways” - there will be a very large shrinkage.
Lean clay and solutions based on it have little plasticity, practically no shrinkage, and subsequently the seams from such solutions crack and fall out.

For masonry mortar, use only clean fine sand, sifted through a 1.5 * 1.5 mm sieve. The amount of sand in the solution is determined empirically by making several samples with different volumetric sand contents. Experienced stove makers immediately accurately determine the quality of the solution, while inexperienced ones can use the test. To do this, a ball with a diameter of 5 cm from the solution in its raw form is placed between the boards and compressed.

Checking the plasticity of the solution, b - normal plasticity

If cracks begin to appear almost immediately, then the solution has low plasticity.
If cracks appear when compressed by 1/3 of their thickness, then plasticity is normal.
If cracks begin to appear at ½ and further, then the plasticity of the solution is excessive.

Video: Testing the solution

Each experienced stove maker has his own know-how and secret recipes for preparing solutions, which they are reluctant to share. To be honest, beginners don’t have much chance of preparing the correct solution right away. The best solution would be to use ready-made mixtures specifically designed for laying fireplaces. In this case, the quality of the solution is guaranteed provided that the manufacturer's instructions are strictly followed. It should be noted that the mixtures for laying the firebox and external walls of fireplaces and stoves may vary.

Necessary tools and accessories

To lay a fireplace you will need a certain set of tools, some of which are typical, others special. So, what you will need:

Pickaxe (A) - it is necessary for splitting bricks.
Kiln hammer (B) - also designed for splitting bricks, but a pickaxe does this more accurately. A hammer is also convenient for straightening bricks.
Construction rule (B) - it is convenient for them to level concrete base foundation, and also monitor the correctness of the masonry.
Wooden spatula (D) - will be very helpful when grinding and kneading the solution.
Construction level (D) - to check the horizontal and vertical planes.
Washing brush (E) – needed for cleaning surfaces from sand and dirt before laying, removing mortar, and wetting surfaces.
Pliers (F) - needed for working with metal wire used in fastening furnace equipment and strengthening masonry.
Lead or zinc scriber (Z) – it is needed for marking tiles.
Squealer (I) - needed for chopping tiles. It is a piece of pipe that is used to strike a knife instead of a hammer.
Scribbling rod (K) - made of metal, intended for marking.
Rasp file (L) - needed to remove sagging from the brick when adjusting it.
Square (M) – will help check the correctness of the drawn angles.
Plumb (H) – the most best tool to check verticals.
Rubber mallet (O) - needed when laying bricks for tapping bricks on a mortar bed.
Chisel (P) – can be useful for dismantling old masonry.
A set of trowels (trowels) of different sizes (P) - necessary for laying and leveling the mortar, removing its excess, filling cavities in the masonry.
Joining ( WITH) – is necessary for sealing joints between bricks and giving them a finished aesthetic appearance.

In addition, you will need a container for mixing the mortar, a container with water for soaking the bricks, shovel or construction mixer. You may need a grinding wheel to grind the brick.

In order to give the brick the required form, chamfer, round corners - professionals use a stone-cutting machine. But all these operations can be performed using angle grinder machines (grinders) and stone discs for dry cutting. The working methods are shown in the video.

Video: Techniques for working with a grinder for stone processing

To lay the upper rows of the fireplace, you will need a construction platform called “ trestles” or a pair of smaller trestles, on which a flooring of boards is laid. This decking can be stood on or placed next to necessary tool and materials.

Fireplace foundation equipment

Brick fireplaces are massive structures, weighing more than a ton. Therefore, if the load-bearing capacity of the floor in the house is not capable of bearing such loads, then the fireplace definitely needs a foundation. Experts recommend making a foundation for a fireplace at the stage of building a house and not connecting it with the foundation of the house, since they perform different tasks and bear different loads.

To equip the foundation you need:

Mark the location of the fireplace and the place for the foundation, taking into account that the opening in the floor should be 15-20 cm wider than the structure of the fireplace.
Dismantle flooring and the floor structure itself. If the floor is thin concrete screed, then use a hammer drill or jackhammer to dismantle it.
Dig a pit 50-60 cm deep and thoroughly clean the bottom.
A layer of coarse sand 10–15 cm thick is poured into the bottom of the pit, then this layer is spilled with water and compacted.
A 10 cm layer of crushed stone is poured, which is also compacted.
Formwork is installed from edged boards. The dimensions of the foundation should be 5 cm larger than the dimensions of the fireplace. The upper edge of the boards is leveled at 140-150 below the level of the finished floor.
First layer concrete mixture It is prepared in the proportion of cement/sand/crushed stone = 1/3/4 and filled with concrete in a layer of 15 cm.
It is advisable to lay a mesh frame made of reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm in increments of 10 cm on the first concrete layer.
The second layer is poured with cement sand mixture in a ratio of 1:3 and is leveled from above along the ends of the boards using the rule.

Complete maturation of concrete occurs within 28 days. Periodically, the top of the foundation should be watered and covered. plastic film. This will prevent the concrete from cracking.
A continuous row of bricks on cement-sand mortar is laid on top of the concrete according to the diagram presented below for the 1st row. It covers in two layers roll waterproofing: roofing felt, Technoelast, Uniflex or other. Another row of bricks is laid on top of the waterproofing layer (2nd row according to the diagram), which should reach approximately the level of the finished floor. When laying out these rows, special care must be taken to ensure that all sizes and horizontal surfaces are consistent.

Brick fireplace laying

The one proposed for DIY construction has quite simple design, which is very good for the first independent experience. It is intended for rooms with an area of 12-13 m2 adjacent to brick main walls. For this fireplace you will need 415-420 pcs. solid refractory brick. Fireclay bricks can be used for the combustion part.

The façade and vertical section of the fireplace are shown in the drawing.

Before you start preparing the mortar for masonry, you need to carefully study the detailed order diagrams that must be there. Even master stove makers top class do not hesitate to use procedures. What do you need to prepare for laying?

It is better to draw the order diagram or print it on a large sheet of paper where you can mark the rows.
Bricks are selected for each row - each one must lie in its place. Those stones that have smooth and beautiful edges should be used for.
According to the scheme, all bricks are cut to size using a grinder or stone-cutting machine and brought to the required size on a grinding wheel or grinding disc. All seams must be the same - 5 mm. It is best to use wooden slats of this thickness, which are laid between the rows. Rails of calibrated sizes can be found in model shops.
This is how all the rows of the future fireplace are sequentially formed, which must be laid out “dry” right up to the beginning of the chimney. In this case, you need to control the verticals and horizontals of all rows.
Particular attention should be paid to the formation of the inclined back wall - the mirror, so that its surface turns out to be smooth transition, as well as a transition in the smoke chamber.
After the entire structure up to the chimney has been assembled “dry,” it is disassembled, but before that, each fitted brick is numbered on the surface and on the diagram, for example: 17–4, which means the 17th row, 4th brick. The rows are folded separately from each other.

This operation takes a lot of time, but it is worth it, since during laying an inexperienced master can spend a very long time adjusting the bricks.

Laying begins by preparing the mortar. A self-prepared solution should be prepared in advance, and the dry mixture should be prepared immediately before use according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

The first two rows of the fireplace were laid out during the construction of the foundation.
Before laying the brick, soak it in a container of water for several minutes until bubbles stop coming out of it. Dry brick will “pull” water from the mortar, reducing its strength.
To form a 5 mm seam, it is necessary to apply the mortar to the brick with a trowel in a layer of greater thickness 7-8 mm, and then, tapping with a rubber mallet, form the desired seam. If this does not work, then the brick is removed, a new batch of mortar is applied and laid again.
First you need to lay out the outermost bricks, achieve them correct position horizontally and vertically, and then the internal bricks are laid out along them. The thickness of the seam can be checked using a piece of wooden strip, and the horizontalness is checked building level. If necessary rubber mallet the position of the brick is adjusted.
Areas marked in order gray, are cavities between bricks. They can be filled with sand, broken bricks or mortar.
The dressing of the seams of the brickwork is already taken into account in the ordering diagram.
After laying the brick, excess mortar is removed with a trowel, and then can be wiped with a brush and a rag. Dried mortar is very difficult to remove from the surface of a brick.
After 3-4 rows of bricks have been laid, you can use jointing to form smooth and beautiful seams between the bricks. Excess solution is removed with a brush and rag.
The sixth and seventh rows of masonry form a niche for the ash pan and stops for the grate. If necessary, grooves are made in the brick for laying the lattice.
Every few rows, the verticality of the structure is checked using a plumb line.

From the 14th row, the formation of the slope of the rear part of the firebox begins. This needs to be given special attention. If necessary, lay the row “dry”, make an exact adjustment, and then lay the masonry with mortar.
The metal corner for the portal lintel should be laid through an asbestos gasket.
After laying the 19th row, you should immediately form a cushion of cement-sand mortar 1:3 on the surface of the “tooth”.
From the 19th row, the formation of the inclined wall of the smoke collector begins, which requires care and accuracy.

From the 34th row, the fireplace structure turns into a formed chimney.
The gate valve is mounted between the 35th and 36th rows of brickwork.

The fluffing to pass through the ceiling is done on the 37th and 38th rows. With a different ceiling height, this can be easily changed.

Putting the fireplace into operation

A finished fireplace cannot be started immediately; you need to give it time to dry. Usually 12-14 days are enough for this. In this case, all valves must be open. After this time, there is no need to immediately put a large load on the fireplace, but do it gradually, with a small amount of firewood. This will allow residual moisture to evaporate from the masonry mortar.

The fireplace model described above has been successfully used in more than one home and has proven its worth. Therefore, if you strictly follow all the recommendations, then even if you have no skills, everything should work out the first time. Well, if you are not sure own strength, then you can invite a master stove maker and work as an apprentice for him. The acquired skills in a difficult but interesting task - laying fireplaces - will be simply priceless and will definitely come in handy in later life.

Video: Construction of a brick fireplace

Video: Laying a fireplace

A classic wood-burning fireplace gives a home a unique coziness and charm, but many consider it too expensive, believing that laying a brick fireplace with your own hands is a job for professionals. In fact, this task is not so difficult, it is enough to find a suitable drawing or ordering diagram, stock up on materials, and a real fireplace with crackling wood in it will appear in your home.

Any construction work begins with a project, and before you start building a fireplace, you need to decide on the size and shape of your fireplace, because not only its appearance, but also your safety depends on them.

What size fireplace is considered ideal? There is no definite answer to this question; you will have to focus on the size of the room, classic proportions and standard brick size.

Determine the dimensions of the firebox. To do this, measure the area of the room and divide it by 100. For example, for a living room with an area of 30 square meters A combustion chamber area of 0.3 meters is sufficient.
Finding the depth of the firebox. In relation to its width, the depth should be 1.5-2.5 times less. So, for a selected firebox area of 0.3 meters with a depth to width ratio of 1:2, the depth will be 37.5 cm - one and a half bricks, and the width 75 cm - three bricks.
Find the height of the firebox. It should be 1.5 times greater than the width: for a firebox three bricks wide, we take a height of just over a meter, which corresponds to 14-15 rows of masonry.
We determine another important parameter - the area of the smoke hole. It should have a ratio to the firebox area of 1:10 or 1:15. The chimney itself can be slightly wider, but the height of the straight section should not be less than 3 meters and more than 5 meters, otherwise it will be difficult to achieve stable draft.

The easiest way is to use ready-made drawings of brick fireplaces - in this case, you will not have to draw the layout yourself and will be able to avoid unpleasant surprises when lighting. From the proposed options, you will have to choose the fireplace that is most suitable in size and shape, after which you can purchase the material and get to work.

Ready-made order schemes

Necessary materials:

red ceramic brick – 300 pieces;
fireclay bricks – 130 pieces;
oven clay or fire-resistant masonry mixture - a couple of bags;
quarry sand – 4 bags;
cement – 1 bag;
metal corner and steel strip - 3 pieces of 1 meter each;
stove door for cleaning the chimney;
stove damper.

Brick fireplace diagram english style and its dimensions are shown in the figure.

Scheme of an English brick fireplace with a straight chimney - photo

The general techniques for laying fireplaces are very similar, so the article discusses the most difficult option– English brick fireplace with slanting hood. You can learn how to lay bricks from, and masonry simple fireplace for beginners it should not cause difficulties if you carefully study our recommendations.

Requirements for the fireplace foundation

The stability of the fireplace depends not only on the masonry, but also on the reliability of its base. The foundation for the fireplace must be poured separately from the foundation of the building, otherwise damage to the hearth and chimney may occur due to seasonal soil shifts. If the fireplace is installed at load-bearing wall, between strip foundation At home and at the base of the fireplace, they make a compensation cushion of sand - they fill it between the foundations and spill it with water.

The height of the base under the fireplace should be such that the first row of masonry is at the level of the finished floor. The foundation pit can be shallow, but on heaving soils a sand and gravel cushion with a thickness of at least 0.5 meters must be made. A layer of sand and gravel compensates for soil shifts and prevents the capillary rise of water from it, which ensures waterproofing of the foundation itself and the walls of the fireplace.

The foundation is poured from M150-M300 concrete with mandatory reinforcement. The formwork is made from boards or plywood, fastening the panels with self-tapping screws. The size of the foundation to be poured must exceed the dimensions of the fireplace on each side by 10 cm. Drawings of brick fireplaces, as a rule, contain required sizes, and when pouring the foundation you can safely use them.

After pouring the foundation, the concrete should be kept until it reaches critical strength for about 5-7 days, after which you can begin marking and laying the fireplace, having previously laid a double layer of additional waterproofing - roofing felt.

Fireplace laying + instructions and video

The laying of an English-style fireplace with a straight chimney is carried out strictly according to the diagram. Before laying begins, the wall behind the fireplace is thermally insulated with a metal sheet or thick foil, and wooden structures additionally treated with a fire retardant solution for interior work. You should also take care of the fireproof flooring in the front of the fireplace, where sparks and embers can enter.

Laying a brick fireplace - photo

Before laying begins, the bricks are sorted, putting aside those that have cracks and chips. They can be used for laying the foundation. Before each stage, it is convenient to lay out the bricks dry, cut them, and sand them.

Red ceramic bricks are briefly soaked in water before laying, but refractory bricks cannot be wetted; dust and dirt are wiped off its surface with a damp cloth. This measure promotes more uniform drying of the masonry mortar. The order of a brick fireplace with explanations is presented in the drawings.

The base of the fireplace (rows 1 and 2) is made of solid red brick. Its area is 1140 by 1270 mm, two rows of masonry with dressing. Before starting laying, it is necessary to check the level of the foundation; if necessary, small unevenness can be leveled by increasing the thickness of the seam. The foundation is laid using a cement-sand mortar, the ratio of cement and sand is 1:2 - 1:3. Rows 3 and 4 are laid out similarly according to the scheme, while the bottom of the firebox in row 4 is made of fire-resistant bricks with fire-resistant mortar. The ratio of clay and sand should be such that the solution does not stick too much to the trowel or spatula, but also does not slide off it.
The next stage of laying the fireplace is the construction of the firebox walls. They are laid in accordance with the order, with the inner walls being laid out from refractory bricks on clay mortar, the outer walls - from ceramic bricks, on cement-sand mortar or on a mixture of clay and sand with the addition of 10-20% cement. The bricks forming the rear corners of the firebox are cut diagonally with a grinder. This shape of the firebox promotes better heat transfer.
Ordinal masonry of the fireplace - the first 4 rows
The firebox installation is completed. In the twelfth row, to complete the framing, a corner and a steel strip are installed on top of the masonry according to the diagram and order. The rear part of the twelfth row is made of interlocking bricks, cut at an angle so as to form a vault.
Ordinal masonry of the fireplace - 5, 6, 7, 8 row
Rows 13 to 16 form the fireplace arch and gas tooth - a protrusion in its upper front part that prevents backdraft and smoke from entering the room. The fifteenth row forms a narrowing of the chimney, due to which increased smoke pressure and increased draft are created. Next, the chimney expands, and in row 16 a cleaning door is built into it, through which accumulated soot is removed. The inner surface of the chimney is still made of fireclay bricks, the outer surface is made of red ceramic.
Row 13-16 fireplace masonry - photo
The next stage is the laying of a gradually tapering chimney and chimney. It is carried out according to the scheme, while the seams are carefully rubbed with inside hand and immediately wipe them with a damp cloth to remove any remaining solution. Any roughness on the walls of the chimney will later lead to the accumulation of soot in this place.
The last stage is laying the fireplace chimney. The lumen of the pipe is narrowed to one brick and blocked in the 25th row with a damper.
make a brick pipe of the required height. The fireplace is dried for 2-5 days at room temperature, after which they begin to slowly heat, achieving uniform heating and sintering of the clay solution on which the firebox is placed. This will prevent it from crumbling and extend the life of the fireplace. After laying and heating, you can begin.

Video - DIY brick fireplace

A real fireplace evokes strong associations with home comfort, the peaceful atmosphere of a winter evening and an aristocratic atmosphere. Making a brick fireplace with your own hands is a labor-intensive task, but doable. To do this you need to find suitable scheme masonry, choose quality material and strictly follow all steps of the technological process.

Main design elements

A traditional fireplace is an open stove of simple design, equipped with a chimney hood. The aesthetic appearance of a home has reverse side medals - low level of heat transfer. The maximum efficiency reaches only 25%, the rest of the heat leaves the room through the pipe. Therefore, the decision to make a brick fireplace in the room should be accompanied by additional installation heating equipment. Regardless of the chosen drawing, the construction of the structure must ensure:

high-quality traction and absence of smoke;
heat generation at a level close to the maximum value for such a device;
aesthetic appearance, matching the interior and size of the room.

The main elements of a brick fireplace in some respects coincide with the design of the stove:

Construction begins with the arrangement of a fireplace table, which must be made of refractory brick or concrete. It is located between the floor and the combustion chamber.
A pre-furnace platform is installed in front of the fireplace made of steel sheet; this will prevent the floor from catching fire if sparks or embers fall out.
The external opening of a brick fireplace, located on the front side and performing a decorative function, is called a portal. It can be made in different shapes: semicircular, rectangular or other.
The firebox is a fuel combustion chamber. Its bottom is called the bottom; it rises 15-30 cm above the floor.
The function of distributing air flows is performed by the grate. It also serves to accommodate fuel material.
An ash pit is a collection point for waste and debris after fuel combustion.
A smoke cornice must be made above the firebox for protection and as a decorative element.
A gas threshold is designed to prevent smoke and soot from entering the room where the brick fireplace is located.
Making a smoke collector and chimney for a brick fireplace is also a prerequisite. The rear wall of the smoke collector is equipped with a smoke tooth. Its main purpose is to limit sudden changes in air flow and delay soot falling from above.

The combustion chamber, whose dimensions expand towards the portal, allows you to achieve a maximum increase in the heat transfer of a brick fireplace and the release of heat flows into the room. For the same purpose, the rear wall of the firebox is equipped with a metal sheet made of steel or cast iron. At a height of two meters, it is necessary to make a furnace valve, the task of which is to regulate the draft force. After the fireplace burns out, it is closed to prevent cold air from entering the room.

Note! Deep firebox large sizes provokes a decrease in the efficiency of a brick fireplace, which is already characterized by low performance.

Placement and standard proportions

An important condition for the high-quality operation of a brick fireplace is the choice of location. Experts recommend doing it near end wall. Alternatively, you can arrange the corner between end wall And internal partition premises. It would be a serious mistake to make a fireplace opposite the windows. This will provoke the formation of drafts and reduce the level of heat transfer. The area of the room where you plan to make a brick structure must exceed 12 m2. Another prerequisite for fulfillment is the installation of a reliable and solid foundation, which we will talk about a little later. If you decide to make a brick fireplace on the second floor, work to additionally strengthen the floors is inevitable.

desire to do home made of brick requires strict adherence to standard proportions between structural elements, namely:

The area of the smoke opening should be less area fireboxes by 10-15 times.
To ensure good draft, a straight section of the chimney must be made within 3-5 meters. In this case, the pipe above the roof should rise at least 1 m, optimally 2 m.
The dimensions of the combustion chamber and the area of the room have a ratio of 1:100, that is, for a living room occupying 30 m2, it is enough to make the firebox in a brick fireplace 0.3 m2.
The width of the combustion chamber in relation to the depth is increased by 1.5-2.5 times, and the height is 1.5 times greater than the width.
For the pre-furnace area, a metal sheet of 0.35x0.5 m is sufficient.

The approximate ratio of brick fireplace elements depending on the size of the room is shown in the figure below:

Preparatory process

To make a brick structure yourself, as a rule, use standard projects. Prepared order schemes provide verified calculations. It is better to draw them yourself on millimeter sheets; the drawing of each row is done separately, indicating the exact parameters and location of the bricks. They start drawing the order from the base.

A clear diagram of the future fireplace allows you to make a preliminary calculation of the required materials. In the masonry you will need not only whole bricks, but also their individual parts. All bricks for the future fireplace are thoroughly inspected for compliance with the following requirements:

surface - smooth;
corners - whole;
When struck with a hammer, the sound is monotonous.

Note! Whitish spots and melting are a sign of a malfunction in the firing process.

The approximate material consumption for a medium-sized brick fireplace is as follows:

fireclay bricks - 130 pcs.;
ceramic products - 250-350 pcs.;
fireproof mixture for masonry - approximately 3 bags;
purified quarry sand - 4 bags, it is better to choose with a grain size of 0.2-1.5 mm;
cement grade above 200 - 1 bag;
crushed stone for pouring the foundation with a fraction of 3-7 mm;
reinforcing bars 70 cm long and 8-10 mm thick - two dozen;
steel strip and angle;
damper and cleaning door.

Work order

IN ideal, it is better to make a foundation for the fireplace from bricks at the stage capital construction. The decision to complement a furnished room with a home is associated with labor-intensive costs, but the task is doable.

Foundation

It is necessary to make a foundation for the fireplace regardless of the general foundation of the house. The procedure includes the following steps:

A small pit is prepared, 0.5 m deep, its width and length exceed the dimensions of a brick fireplace by a total of 30-35 cm.
Depending on the soil moisture, a sand-gravel mixture or just sand is poured onto the bottom.
On top of the smooth gravel, it is necessary to make a wooden formwork, the dimensions of which exceed the dimensions of the future brick fireplace by 15-20 cm. Do not forget to use a level to level the edges.
The reinforcing bars are laid crosswise, the joints are fixed using welding. Depending on the estimated weight of the brick fireplace, the height of the formwork must be made at least 15 cm.
For pouring, prepare a solution consisting of sand, cement and gravel. After the mixture has dried, the gap between the old floor and the fireplace foundation is filled with clean sand, which acts as a deformation compensator. The foundation must be made below the floor level by 5-7 cm.

At least 48 hours are allotted for the foundation to harden, after which you can proceed to building a brick fireplace with your own hands.

Advice ! A week before laying the fireplace, the clay to form the joints must be soaked in a large container and stirred periodically.

Brickwork

Each brick needs to be briefly soaked for a quarter or a third of a minute before laying. This must be done to eliminate air jams. The sand for the solution is pre-sifted. It is important to make the mixture of clay and dried sand to the correct consistency for laying a fireplace. You can check this by forming a small sausage with a diameter of 2 centimeters from the solution. The optimal density of the solution will be evidenced if the figurine does not crumble and does not stick to the skin.

A layer of roll insulation is laid on top of the foundation, under the dimensions of the future brick fireplace. A drawing of the adjacent side of the structure is applied to the wall. The sawn-off parts of bricks must be walled up in the mortar; they are not allowed to come out from the outside. When laying a brick fireplace, you should regularly check the horizontal and vertical levels of the corners, as well as the compliance of the diagonals. This can be done using a plumb line or level and a tape measure.

Working according to the selected ordering scheme includes the following steps:

The foundation should be laid using a mortar consisting of sand and cement. The lower part of the firebox includes rows 1 to 3.
For the bottom of the firebox, refractory bricks and the same mixture are used. The ash pan is located in the 4th and 5th rows.
The fireplace surround is formed in the next two rows.
From the 8th to the 12th row, the fireplace walls are laid, fire-resistant material is used on the inside, the outer walls must be made of ceramic bricks. The 12th row of masonry is completed with a frame in the form of a steel strip and a metal corner.
The smoke collector is located between rows 13 and 19. At the very beginning, you need to make a smoke tooth; from the 15th row, the fireplace chimney begins to narrow. A cleaning door is installed on row 16.
From rows 20 to 25 the fireplace chimney is laid. On the 25th row it is necessary to make a stove damper.

It is advisable to make the seams thin in height, this will reduce the risk of cracking of the mortar during operation. In the core and depth of the masonry they may be slightly thicker. The installation of each fireplace brick is accompanied by the removal of excess mortar.

Important ! The inner surface of the fireplace walls must be made smooth, otherwise in the future it will hum and premature destruction will begin. Roughness in the chimney provokes excessive accumulation of soot.

After completion of the work, the brick fireplace needs to be dried for 5 days, after which you can begin gradually heating it. This will ensure uniform sintering of the clay solution and prevent it from crumbling in the future. After this, they move on to finishing work.

Building a fireplace is not an easy task and is usually left to a professional stove builder. However, any craftsman familiar with brickwork(), it is quite possible to independently make a fireplace for a summer house or home. If you follow the technology, it will turn out beautiful, not smoky, and warm the room well. It’s worth starting with the simplest, straight fireplace model.

Project and materials

First you need to decide on the location of the fireplace. Usually it is located at external wall room or in the corner between the outside and internal wall, as the back of the fireplace gets very hot. You should not build a fireplace directly opposite a window or front door, since in this case drafts are provided.

The size of the fireplace and its proportions depend on the room in which it is located. So, for rooms with a volume of 40-80 cubic meters. the fireplace opening should be equal to 1/50th or 1/70th, that is, about 0.2-0.4 m2. In linear dimensions it is approximately 36*45 – 52*77 cm.

The height of the fireplace also depends on the depth of the combustion hole; the ratio should be 1:2 or 2:3. A deeper firebox leads to low heat transfer, and a shallower one leads to smoke in the room. For a fireplace with a combustion opening area of 0.2 sq. m. it will be 18-24 cm, for 0.4 square meters. – 26-35 cm.

The size of the chimney is also related to the area of the firebox. It should be 8-15 times smaller, on average 10 times, that is, 0.02 and 0.04 m2. respectively. This area is provided with a size, for example, 14*14 or 14*27 cm, for round pipe the diameter is 8-14 cm. The length of the chimney is from 4 to 5 meters.

Domestic side walls The fireplace inserts are placed at an angle, turning them outward. The back wall is tilted forward from about one third of the height. A smoke chamber is located on top of the firebox. Between them there is a so-called “pass” - a ledge with a cornice that prevents sparks and soot from entering the chimney, and smoke from entering the room.

Another important parameter on which the size depends is the parameters of the brick. His standard sizes– 6.5*12*25 cm. Considering the seam thickness is 3-5 mm, you can choose the following sizes for fireplaces:

for a room of 10 sq. m. – height 5 rows (38.5 cm), width 2 bricks (53 cm), depth 1 brick, pipe 14*14 cm,
for a room of 15 sq. m. – height 6 rows (46 cm), width 2.5 bricks (66 cm), depth 1.5 bricks, pipe 14*27 cm,
for a room of 20 sq. m. – height 7 rows (53.5 cm), width 3 bricks (79 cm), depth 1.5-1.75 bricks, pipe 14*27 cm.

To avoid mistakes when laying a fireplace, “ordering” is done on checkered paper - a drawing with the exact arrangement of bricks in compliance with proportions. They begin to draw from the base of the fireplace, placing the bricks edgewise or flat. The lower part of the firebox consists of 2-3 rows of bricks. Having an accurate layout, you can calculate required amount bricks, taking halves and quarters for whole bricks, you need to add 5% of the quantity for breakage and defects.

To provide fire safety The back of the fireplace and pipes must be insulated to prevent fire. To reflect heat on the wall behind the fireplace, you can attach a thin a metal sheet height to the mantelpiece.

To lay the fireplace, solid stove bricks are used, which are also called fireclay bricks. It can withstand repeated heating up to 1000 degrees, is not subject to deformation and retains heat well. The solution is prepared from sand cleared of debris with a fraction of 0.2-1.5 mm; it must be washed from dust in water. Also used are oven clay or blue, Cambrian, cement grade M300-400, crushed stone with a fraction of 2-4 cm, more details. In addition, you will need a metal smoke damper and 20 rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm and a length of 70 cm for reinforcement.

Preparatory work

At the first stage, the foundation of the fireplace is poured. It should not be connected to the foundation of the house, but should be slightly separated from the walls. The area of the foundation should be slightly larger than the area of the fireplace base, with a margin of 4-6 cm on all sides. The distance of 5-10 cm between the foundation of the house and the fireplace is filled with sand.

For the foundation, a hole is dug 10-15 cm larger than its expected size, its depth is about 60 cm. A layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick is poured onto its bottom, leveled and compacted. Then, along the perimeter of the pit, formwork is installed, protruding 10-15 cm above the pit, lined with roofing felt for waterproofing, and concrete is poured into it with a cement to sand ratio of 1:3. The concrete is poured gradually, vibrates well, the surface is leveled and smoothed. The poured foundation is covered with plastic wrap on top and left to dry for a week. The upper edge of the foundation should be located 6-7 cm below the level of the future floor covering.

Masonry

When the foundation is completely dry, roofing material is laid on it in 2 layers. A few days before the main work, the clay is soaked and prepare the mortar for masonry according to all the rules. To lay the first row, it is better to add a small amount of cement to the solution, 10-30% by weight of the solution.

Bricks are calibrated in advance, selecting those closest in size for each row. Before laying, the bricks are immersed in water for a few minutes so that when they dry, they do not draw moisture from the mortar. The first row is often laid edgewise, then its shape is checked with a level and a square. It is necessary to check the verticality of the corners of each row using a level or plumb line, and its horizontalness. To check the equality of the diagonals, use a tape measure or string. The thickness of the seams should be 3-5 mm. Laying a fireplace is a painstaking job, as high demands are placed on its quality.

The first three rows are the base of the fireplace, 4 and 5 are the ash pan, 6 and 7 are the bottom and frame of the fireplace. Further along the 13th row inclusive, the walls of the fireplace are formed, 14-19 - the smoke collector, 20-25 - the chimney. The entire process of laying a fireplace can be watched in the video.

When laying the base and continuous rows of the fireplace, use a trowel or trowel. It is better to lay out the firebox and chimney manually in order to additionally test the solution and control its quality. The solution is applied to the middle of the brick, leaving the edges free. All rows are laid out according to the diagram; for convenience, they can be numbered. Particular attention is paid to the laying of the firebox and chimney channels, so it must be airtight and even, because it cannot be plastered. Excess mortar is immediately removed, and the finished masonry is wiped.

A beautiful curved arch of the fireplace is formed by gradually layering bricks up to 5-6 cm in each row. For curved lintels, temporary formwork is used - a circle, which is fixed with supports under the future arch. The laying begins with a brick located in the center and continues symmetrically in both directions.

When laying a chimney, periodically check its verticality, since deviation can lead to smoke in the room. The chimney, like the base, is laid using a mixture of clay and cement. The fireplace pipe must be insulated for fire safety purposes. To do this, a barrier and an overlap are installed in the place where it passes through the roof.

Fireplace finishing

Blemishes in masonry can be masked by lining the outside of the fireplace natural stone, plastering or painting. If the work is done well, then you can simply “embroider” the empty seams and clean the surface of excess mortar.

The clay used for laying the fireplace allows you to disassemble the row several times, achieving best quality. Slowness and control at every stage of construction will help you make the first fireplace the real center of the house and a source of pride for the owners.

Thinking about building or purchasing country house, almost every owner dreams of a beautiful fireplace. They add graceful and romantic sophistication to the interior and allow you to truly enjoy the atmosphere home comfort. In this article we will tell you in detail how to make a fireplace with your own hands, and our step-by-step instruction will allow even a beginner to cope with this difficult job.

Any fireplace, no matter what size or shape it is, consists of the following main parts:

firebox;
ash pan;
grate;
portal (body);
chimney.

The combustion chamber, in turn, can be open or closed. If you have chosen a fireplace with a closed firebox, then the design will include additional elements: gate, transparent doors made of heat-resistant glass.

The efficiency, service life and reliability of the fireplace are also affected by the materials from which it is made. You can build a fireplace entirely from brick, making the firebox part from heat-resistant (fireclay) material, and the rest of the structure from red ceramic.

Or you can purchase a ready-made cast-iron firebox, around which you can build a casing, a portal and a brick chimney.

Of particular importance is good thermal insulation combustion chamber, because if a fireplace is erected in a house made of wood, there is a high risk of fire. Therefore, great attention should be paid to the thermal insulation of the fireplace and the protection of the flooring, walls, and roof.

There are several classifications of fireplaces: according to appearance portal, in shape and size of the firebox.

If the width of the portal does not exceed 51 cm, then such a fireplace is classified as small.

Width up to 63 cm – medium.

Over 63 cm - for large fireplaces.

The combustion chamber is made of steel or cast iron. Purchasing a ready-made firebox will greatly facilitate the process of building a fireplace. In addition, a closed cast iron firebox looks very stylish in a modern interior.

Some experts recommend posting inner part cast iron or steel combustion chamber with fireclay bricks in order to minimize the contact of metal with fire, especially when it comes to steel. Under the fuel chamber, as a rule, there is a fuel basket.

Work processes in the fireplace occur as follows:

Logs and firewood are placed in the combustion chamber on the grate and set on fire.
The intensity of combustion is controlled by a slide valve, which opens or blocks access to oxygen. At open type fireboxes, the intensity of combustion can be adjusted only by the amount of firewood.
As wood is burned, the ash is collected under the grate, in a special ash pan, which must be cleaned regularly. The ash pan can be built-in, or it can be made retractable design, which will greatly facilitate the operation process.
Gases from burning logs are removed through special pipe outside. You can equip the chimney with a forced draft, which is a fan. In this case, you can regulate the draft by turning the fan on or off, which will increase the heat transfer of the fireplace.

The fireplace chimney can be made of steel or brick. You can also find ready-made ceramic structures on sale today, but their construction requires special skill.

When developing a fireplace design for your home, great attention should be paid to fire safety measures.

The construction of a fuel chamber is one of the most difficult and critical stages of work. The firebox is located under the chimney. Special role plays the fireplace tooth, which is integral with the back wall of the firebox.

Base

As for the reason, in itself it can have a completely different size and shape. This is a structural part that is located under the fuel chamber. It depends only on the owners where exactly the firebox will be located: below the floor or at the level of the kitchen table.

The lower the firebox is located, the more heat it will produce, taking in the cold part of the air from below.

It is preferable to make a firebox under which it is located at floor level, but this is not always possible. In a multi-storey modern cottage, it is impossible to build a fireplace of this configuration, because the ash pan must be located under the stove. Ideally this is working basement where the foundation is being built.

But you can implement another version of the ash pan by placing it below the hearth of the fireplace with a pull-out system. Then operating the fireplace will not cause any difficulties at all.

Special attention should be paid to the inclination level back wall fireplace.

Here the opinions of experts are divided into 2 camps. Some argue that it should be built strictly vertically. Others insist on building the back wall of the fireplace at an angle of 300 inward. Why is this tilt necessary?

The masonry of the fireplace also depends on the size of the combustion chamber. So for structures with increased heat transfer, it is necessary to place the walls “on edge”. The slope of the rear wall of the firebox provides improved heat reflection into the room area.

Portal

There are two options for covering the portal: straight and arched. In this case, the radius of the arch should be equal to half the width of the portal.

The arch is the most reliable portal covering. It transfers the entire vertical load of the top row of masonry. According to their shape, they, in turn, are divided into 3 types: arched, straight and semicircular.

A semicircular arch is ½ part of a circle. This option is the simplest and most reliable. The radius of curvature is equal to ½ part of the width of the firebox.

The beam arch is flatter than the semi-circular arch and is best used for wide fireboxes. Or, if you are forced to limit the height of the firebox.

Onion arch

The arched arch is not ½ of a circle, but only 1 sector of it.

And finally, a straight arch is suitable if you need a direct overlap of the fireplace portal. Despite its simple appearance, it is considered the most difficult to manufacture. Here it is necessary to very accurately calculate the angle of the brick cut.

The firebox located under the firebox usually has a rectangular or trapezoidal shape, and above the firebox there is an outlet where smoke rushes when wood burns.

A small bridge or overlap is built in front of this mouth, and a “tooth” is built behind it. Above the firebox there is a smoke bag (smoke collector), where smoke is collected and directed up the pipe. To regulate this flow, a damper is installed in the front part.

Types of fireplace: configuration and location

When starting a project to install a fireplace in your home, you first need to think about its location.

There are several options for placing this heating unit:

The following factors must also be taken into account:

Basic rules for building a fireplace

In order for the fireplace to serve for a long time and delight you with its warmth, you must strictly follow the basic rules when constructing it:

A brick fireplace is built on a separate foundation.
To lay the firebox, you must use exclusively fireclay (heat-resistant) brick, which should not be tied to the main one.
In the places where the door and ash pan are installed, it is necessary to lay an asbestos cord and leave a gap for the expansion of the metal.
The inside of the combustion chamber should not be plastered.
The rear wall of the fuel chamber should be positioned at a slight angle.

Don't forget about fire safety, because any structure that runs on solid fuel poses an additional risk.

The main point of fire safety in arranging a fireplace in country house or at the dacha is to install cuttings in the path of smoke.

If the wall is adjacent to the fireplace, then a heat-resistant material (basalt fiber, asbestos, felt, etc.) must be laid between it and the heating unit. The thickness of such an overlap should be at least 20-25 mm.

If the fireplace is installed on wooden floor, then it is necessary to lay a metal sheet around the perimeter or cover it with ceramic tiles with an indentation of 30-35 mm on each side.

Within a radius of 150 mm from the chimney, where it passes through the ceiling, it is necessary to organize reliable thermal insulation from a double layer of clay-impregnated felt or asbestos fiber.

The chimney must operate autonomously with only one fireplace.

There are also certain fire safety rules when operating a fireplace:

Do not raise the fireplace to maximum temperature.
Carry out systematic cleaning of the fireplace from ash and soot.
The safe distance between the fireplace and the nearest flammable objects must be at least 70 cm.
Use only suitable fuel for your country fireplace.

Calculate the dimensions of the fireplace correctly

When designing and creating a drawing of a future fireplace, it is very important to correctly calculate its width and height.

Dimensions of elements, mm	Room area
	12 m2	15 m2	20m2	25 m2	30 m2	40m2
Portal width	400	500	600	700	800	900
Portal height	420	490	560	630	700	770
Firebox depth	300	320	350	380	400	420
Rear wall height	at least 360
Rear width	300	400	450	500	600	700
Smoke collector height	570	600	630	660	700	800
Section of a chimney with a rough inner surface	140*270	140*270	270*270	270*270	270*400	270*400
Section of a chimney with a smooth inner surface	140*140	140*270	140*270	270*270	270*270	270*270

The size of the firebox depends on the area of the room. There is a simple formula that will allow you to correctly perform all the calculations:

We measure the area of the room and divide it by 50.

The resulting value is the size of the combustion window.

To heat small room 20 square meters, a fireplace with a firebox opening of 0.50 m2 is quite enough.

We also suggest using the table to correctly calculate all the necessary parameters for your future fireplace.

After calculating the width of the firebox, you need to decide on its depth. The heating efficiency of the fireplace directly depends on this parameter. According to the standard calculation formula, it is equal to 2/3 of the height of the firebox.

If you ignore this factor and, for the sake of appearance, decide to increase the depth of the firebox, this will directly affect the heat transfer of the fireplace.

Almost all the heat received from the combustion of wood will go through the pipe to the street. In this case, the fireplace will serve more of a decorative function, delighting you with the beautiful glow of the fire. You will only have time to add firewood to the firebox.

When the depth of the combustion chamber is reduced in relation to its height, there may be a risk of smoke in the room.

In addition to the correct calculation of the firebox, great attention must be paid to the arrangement of the chimney, on which fire safety and good draft depend.

According to SNiP standards, the diameter of the chimney must be at least 150:170 mm. If you have chosen a chimney with a rectangular cross-section, then its width should be equal to 1/10 of the size of the combustion chamber.

The height of the chimney should not be less than 5 meters. But sometimes, with high floor heights, you will need to raise the chimney even higher. In this case, we focus on the roof ridge and the pipe outlet location.

The figure shows how to correctly determine the height of the chimney.

Therefore, carefully calculate all these parameters before you start building a fireplace with your own hands.

How to make a fireplace with your own hands: step-by-step instructions and procedure

We provide a diagram of the laying of a fireplace with a fuel chamber of the following size:

The width of the portal is 62 cm.

Height – 49 cm.

The depth of the fuel chamber is 32 cm.

The chimney cross-section is 26*26 cm.

We will lay out the back part of the structure from ½ of a brick, and the sides from a solid one.

Step 1. Sketch and drawing

Whatever size and configuration you choose for your fireplace, you need to complete drawings and sketches before you start building it.

Drawing a sketch and completing the drawing.

Having decided on the place where you want to place the future fireplace, draw a drawing on paper. Now decide on the size of the unit and calculate each side. Do detailed drawing. Make sure that the smoke exhaust system will not reach the ceilings or beams. Decide on which side the vent will be located and what type of firebox there will be.

We prepare tools and materials.

You immediately need to decide what kind of cladding you will cover the fireplace with. If the structure is being prepared for jointing, then you need to purchase a red ceramic brick. If you plan to decorate with clinker tiles, then you can buy a more budget option.

We offer detailed diagram construction of a red brick fireplace with a stone firebox.

For this we need:

Fireclay refractory brick for the combustion chamber (not lower than M200).
Red ceramic brick for the entire fireplace. – 250 pcs (not including pipes). You can additionally take 10% of the total quantity, taking into account defects and errors.
Mortar for laying the foundation (cement, fine sand, gravel and water).
Mortar for laying bricks.
Roofing felt for foundation waterproofing.
Boards for the construction of formwork.
Grate.
Blower.
Metal door.
Damper.
Metal rods and wire for reinforcement.
Metal wire 0.8 mm for dressing.
Asbestos cord.

Prepare the following tools:

Trowel for laying bricks.
Tape measure and marker.
Rule.
Grinder for turning bricks.
Building level, protractor and plumb line.
Stapler.
Shovel and bayonet shovel.
Bucket for solution.
Construction mixer or drill with attachment.
Rubber hammer for laying bricks.
Construction hammer for erecting formwork.

Step 2. Preparatory work

Construction of the foundation.

Particular attention should be paid to the construction of the foundation, since all further operation of the fireplace depends on its reliability.

When arranging the foundation in a cottage in use, you must immediately take into account the location of beams, roof lintels, rafters, etc.

Do not save time and effort and make a separate foundation for the heating unit, so that when shrinking, the general foundation for the house does not deform the structure of the fireplace.

When arranging a foundation for a fireplace at the zero cycle of building a house, this process will not cause any particular difficulties. You simply carry out the work of constructing the base of the fireplace according to a single scheme:

— excavation of soil to the freezing depth.

— creation of formwork;

— making an underlying layer of sand and crushed stone;

— waterproofing using roofing felt or polyethylene;

— reinforcement with metal rods;

- pouring the foundation on 2 bricks to the finished floor;

— technological break 20 days.

We have previously discussed in detail. The layout of the foundation for the fireplace is no different.

It’s another matter if you decide to build a fireplace in an already used house. This process will be accompanied by the stage of dismantling the floor covering at the location where the fireplace is installed.

To do this, use a marker to measure the required size of the fireplace according to the drawing, make a 15-20 cm indentation on each side and use a grinder to cut a hole in the floor.

Place the used boards aside and begin digging into the soil. Next, proceed according to the standard foundation pouring scheme.

After raising the base of the fireplace to the level of the finished floor, you will need to beautifully design the gap between the floor covering and the stone structure.

Advice! No matter how carefully you work, during the process of laying a fireplace, dust and dirt will inevitably form in the house. Before you start construction work, cover all furniture and floors with plastic.

Work to ensure fire safety.

When arranging a fireplace in wooden house, it is very important to protect the walls adjacent to it from overheating.

You can lay an asbestos sheet between the fireplace and the ceiling, or you can line the wall with ceramic tiles.

Preparing bricks for laying.

After the foundation has completely dried and set, you can begin construction.

Select all the bricks, sort them by size and soak the part you will be working with. at this stage. This must be done so that it does not absorb moisture from the masonry mortar.

Before building a fireplace, according to the procedure, even experienced stove makers first lay out the bricks “dry”. This way you will be able to see all the difficult places that you will encounter and avoid serious mistakes that will be difficult to correct later.

Advice. When laying out the rows “dry”, number each row on the bricks and put a serial number. This way you will complete the task faster.

Step 3. Laying the fireplace

The fireplace must be built on a foundation that is well waterproofed. To do this, measure the size of the structure on a sheet of roofing felt, cut it out and lay it in layers on the base.

Now you can start laying the fireplace itself. To lay a fireplace, use a mortar that is also suitable for laying stoves.

Soak the red clay in a trough of water for several days.

To prepare the solution, combine 8 parts sand and 8 parts clay, add 1 part water and mix thoroughly with a construction mixer.

Now let's check its readiness. The consistency should resemble thick sour cream. If it turns out too liquid, you can add a little sand.

Dip the trowel into the solution and see whether the mixture flows off it or not. If it glass, leaving a thin layer of 2-3 mm, then the solution is ready. If it turns out thick, dilute with water.

In order to clearly erect the fireplace vertically, you can pull plumb lines. They will serve as a kind of beacon by which you will navigate.

The 1st row is the base of the fireplace.

The correct layout of the entire structure depends on it. For this row it is better to use masonry mortar with a small addition of cement. The recommended seam thickness is 5 mm. Check the level horizontally and diagonally, determine the angles with a protractor. They must be strictly 90 0.

If you want to shape the base of the fireplace unusual look, then you can lay bricks on the edge on the basement row. The base must be raised 25-28 cm to the level of the finished floor.

Maintaining the same thickness of the seam when laying a fireplace is not so easy, especially for a beginner. There is a little trick. Use for reference wooden slats 0.5 cm thick.

Make sure that the masonry mortar does not come into contact with front side, after all, we are building a fireplace “for paneling.” After finishing the work, it will be troublesome to wipe off the frozen solution.

When placing a brick on the batten, press it gently with your hand and tap it over the entire plane with a rubber hammer. This way it will sit and grip well. Make sure that the solution is not squeezed out of the cracks.

The wooden slats are removed after 3-4 rows of bricks have been laid.

2nd row. It is laid out similarly to the first one with red brick, according to the diagram. We completely fill this row with bricks.

3rd row. Here we begin to build the bottom of the fuel chamber, laying fireclay bricks on the edge. There is no need to bind fire brick with red.

We install the grate, taking into account the gap for metal expansion of 3-5 mm.

Row 4 – we begin to form the firebox. When laying several rows, wipe the bricks with a damp cloth to help the mortar adhere better. Here in this row we install the fuel chamber door. Consider the gap for metal expansion.

The door, for reliability, is mounted on a metal mustache, which is placed in the seam between the rows of bricks.

In the 5th row we install a blower.

8 row. We tilt the rear wall of the firebox at 30 0. This element is also called the “mirror” of the fireplace.

9-14 row. Let's start forming the arch.

The ceiling of the portal is largely determined by the design of the fireplace. This part of the work will not cause any particular difficulties.

The most simple option there will be the use of steel corners on which the bricks are placed. But with such masonry it is better to tile the fireplace in the future decorative material, which will close the steel corner.

Considering that we chose the option “with a fireplace panel,” we will not use this method.

In order to accurately make a semi-cylindrical arch, it is necessary to make a circle from a sheet of plywood.

We draw a circle on the sheet with a compass, divide it into 2 parts of the required radius (1/2 part of the width of the firebox) and cut out 2 semicircles using a grinder.

Place these 2 parts of the circle on the floor and insert 11 cm long blocks of wood between them. Fasten the structure with self-tapping screws. The circle is ready.

All bricks must be ground onto a wedge. How to accurately determine the wedge size. You can, of course, calculate it using a formula, or you can use a proven method manually.

Place the circle on the floor and attach 1 brick to it.

Take the thread and stretch it from the center of the circle to the upper left corner. Draw a pencil along the stretched thread.

Do the same procedure with the right side - this way you get a batch of bricks with measured markings for the wedge. All that remains now is to carefully cut off the markings with a grinder. Be sure to number the bricks first so you can easily place them in the correct order.

Lay out the arch symmetrically, bringing the bricks from the corners to the center.

15-18 row. Making a fireplace tooth. This is the name of the protrusion in the fuel chamber, which prevents precipitation and ash from entering the fireplace and improves draft.

Step 4. Construction of the chimney

Chimney laying

Row 19-20. We are building a chimney.

21-22 row. We continue to build the chimney. In row 22 we install a fireplace damper.

23 row we make fluff, giving the structure a shape swallowtail. The fluff or “otter” is done in the place where the chimney pipe is in maximum contact with the roof.

The height of the fluff can vary from 29 to 36 cm. A drain is placed above the fluff, which is laid out until it comes into contact with the roof. The size of the riser and chimney pipe must match.

There is a metal umbrella on top of the chimney to protect from precipitation and debris.

Step 5. Cladding work

In order to grout the fireplace joints, add clean sifted river sand to the clay solution and mix thoroughly. This mass should be thick and plastic.

Step 6. Putting the fireplace into operation

Considering that the fireplace is laid with wet bricks, before the first kindling, the structure must be thoroughly dried.

Natural drying occurs in the first week. To do this, simply open the door of the ash chamber and the firebox. And in the second week, you need to light the fireplace every day and not bring it to maximum heat. Check traction.

Instructions for laying a fireplace with a cast iron firebox and a metal chimney

The advantage of installing a chimney pipe made of steel (in our case, sandwich pipes) is that it can be removed through the wall. This greatly expands your options for placing a fireplace in your home.

To build such a fireplace, you will need the same tools as in the previous instructions, and from the materials you need to prepare:

Cast iron firebox with glass.
Sandwich pipe set.
Silicone sealant.
Clamps, tee.
Elbow 45 0 or 90 0 (depending on the location of the chimney structure).
Bracket for supporting the chimney pipe.
Mineral wool (to insulate the passage of pipes through ceilings).
Protective umbrella for the pipe (from precipitation and debris).

The arrangement of a separate foundation is carried out in a standard manner with the deepening of the soil, the construction of formwork and cementing.
Insulation of walls from the fireplace. The fireplace cannot be mounted close to the wall. Therefore, between wooden wall The fireplace next to which the fireplace will be placed must be lined with super insulation. If space allows, you can build an additional thin wall from sand-lime brick. Please note that in this case the wall must be built on the same foundation as the fireplace. Take this into account when designing. The size of the wall should exceed the size of the fireplace by 50-70 cm on each side.
Laying the base (2 rows are laid with solid bricks).
Construction of a pedestal - we lay out 4 rows of red brick in the shape of the letter P. If you have chosen a wide firebox, then the width of the pedestal should also be increased. Use cement-clay mortar when laying bricks. The pedestal will increase the heat transfer of the fireplace, because cold air will climb from below and, passing through the firebox, rise up.
Ash pit installation.
On the 4th row of bricks, we make grooves using a file, and insert metal corners into them with the edges up.
We lay the 5th row of bricks, which will be the base under the firebox. We apply a layer of fireproof mastic on it.
We install.
You will need an assistant for this job due to the heavy weight of the structure. It is necessary to carefully lower the fuel chamber from bottom to top, at a distance of 5 cm from the back of the wall. While the mastic or fire-resistant glue has not hardened, check the degree of horizontal inclination with a building level. At this stage, you can still correct errors.
from sandwich pipes.
Brick lining of the firebox. After the firebox is connected to the chimney, it is necessary to cover it with bricks using heat-resistant glue or cement mortar.
When lining the firebox, it is very important to take into account the thermal gap of 5 mm between the cast iron wall and the outer casing. The order in this case is not important, since, in essence, you are building a brick box according to the dimensions of the finished firebox. At the stage of finishing the chimney, it is very important to ensure that the lining does not rest on the pipe.
Lining the chimney with plasterboard. Immediately according to the scheme, a frame is erected from metal profile, onto which drywall is screwed with self-tapping screws.
It needs to be insulated from the inside thermal insulation mats from non-flammable material. In this case, they should be attached with the foil side to the firebox and chimney.
We cover the outer part with plasterboard.
Facing works. Any fireplace can be beautifully decorated facing material: clinker bricks, decorative stone, plaster, etc. After the cladding work has been completed, the flooring can be completed. Keep in mind that parquet or laminate cannot be laid close to the fireplace. The distance must be at least 80 cm.
Drying the fireplace and heating it.

When all the work is completed, you can decorate the fireplace with a stylish, hand-made fireplace.

It’s unlikely that anyone would argue that you can look at the flickering fire in the fireplace for an infinitely long time.

And if everything is strictly followed according to our instructions, then such a fireplace will delight you not only by creating a special aura of home comfort, but will also provide warmth, heating the house.

To make it easier for you to understand how to build a fireplace with your own hands, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with detailed video instructions.