It is not without reason that the rose is called the queen of flowers, because it pleasantly pleases the eye with its lush bright inflorescences. At the same time, it is quite demanding on growing conditions. Caring for roses includes not only growing flowers in the garden, but also at home. Indoor roses, like garden varieties, require attention: regular watering, fertilizing and loosening the soil.
From this article you will learn how to properly care for different types of roses in the garden and in a city apartment, and photos and videos will help you quickly master the necessary skills.
Indoor rose: care at home
Indoor roses are considered to be quite fastidious crops, and all measures taken to care for them should be taken responsibly. Firstly, they require regular feeding and watering. Secondly, they need good lighting, but without exposure to direct sunlight.
In addition, caring for the culture at home includes regular replanting. Since this plant is developing quite actively, the flower needs to be replanted in pots bigger size as you grow.
Peculiarities
If you know how to properly care for indoor plants and what features should be taken into account when growing, you can decorate your home with a lush and beautiful plant.
The main feature of indoor varieties is that they react negatively to sudden temperature fluctuations (Figure 1). In summer, the room should not be too hot, and in winter it is advisable to protect the plant from drafts. In addition, the plant will react negatively to cold water when watering.
Figure 1. Basic rules for caring for indoor varieties After flowering, you need to remove all dry flowers and buds. They have no decorative value, but take away from the plant the juices necessary for growth. When replanting, great care must be taken, since the roots of the plant are very sensitive and are easily injured.
Basic Rules
If you bought an indoor rose, try to provide it good care at home. There is no need to immediately transplant it into a new pot. The plant needs to adapt to its new home, so at first it is better for the flower to grow in an old pot.
Note: In order for the culture to quickly get used to a new place, it is better to place it on a south or south-east window sill.
Plants are responsive to spraying, so in the evening you can moisten the leaves of the plant with boiled water room temperature. But in hot summers, this procedure should be carried out with caution so as not to cause burns to the leaves.
Another mandatory step in care is feeding. You can use a liquid solution of mullein for this purpose. During the flowering period, fertilizer is applied weekly, and at other times - once every two weeks.
Problems
The main problems during cultivation are related to the fact that this crop is quite demanding in terms of living conditions. For example, if a flower does not receive enough sunlight, it will stop growing and flowering. Therefore, you should try to place the pot in well-lit places, but exposure to direct sunlight should be moderate.
In addition, indoor roses are often exposed to diseases and pests. These flowers are often infected powdery mildew. To combat the disease, spray with a soda solution (two teaspoons of soda per liter of water). Spraying must be done very carefully so that the solution does not get on the soil. It is better to cover the soil during processing. They are also often inhabited by spider mites, and special preparations - acaricides - are used to combat them.
Trimming
The flowering of indoor varieties largely depends on how regularly pruning is done (Figure 2).
All diseased, dry or damaged branches and shoots are removed immediately. If they withered due to illness, you can prevent the spread of the disease, and if the cause was improper care- the plant will receive more nutrients for normal development.
Figure 2. Features of pruning indoor roses After flowering is completed, all faded buds and inflorescences are also removed. They take away the nutrients the plant needs to recover after the active growing season.
Caring for roses in the spring at the dacha
For long-term flowering, plants need proper care: regular pruning and fertilizing, removal of wild growth from grafted plants, mulching and prevention against pests and diseases. One-year-old plants are especially carefully cared for, as this will later affect the quality of the flower.
Young seedlings must be shaped so that in the future the bush will be symmetrical. To do this, pinching is carried out after the appearance of the fourth leaf. In addition, in the first year after planting the bush, all buds are cut off as soon as they reach the size of a pea. This stimulates the formation of new stems and makes the bush symmetrical. In August, the formation is stopped and the bush is given the opportunity to bloom. Figure 3 shows basic guidelines for pruning bushes.
Note: Without pinching shoots and buds, the plant will bloom. This will weaken it and the bush will not grow well.
Pinching is not carried out for climbing, semi-climbing, ground cover and park varieties. However, this procedure is also necessary for adult crops to limit growth. In order for the bush to bloom beautifully, young shoots that drown out the central part of the bush must be cut off.
Figure 3. Recommendations for pruning rose bushes An important step is also pruning. Unlike wild varieties, this procedure is carried out annually for garden varieties to stimulate growth and more abundant flowering.
There are several types of pruning:
- Spring (main) helps to properly form the bush, stimulates abundant flowering and the formation of young shoots.
- Summer performs the function of regulating flowering. For varieties that produce buds several times, after the first flowering period, all inflorescences are removed along with the upper part of the stem. The cut is made above the second or third leaf with a well-developed bud. This saves juices and stimulates the formation of new shoots and leaves. Summer pruning is not carried out only for those varieties that bloom once and form beautiful fruits, or for those from which it is planned to collect seeds. In summer, excess stems are also cut off, drowning out the central part of the bush. During the last flowering, faded buds are not removed, as this may cause unwanted autumn growth.
- Autumn done immediately before sheltering for the winter. Remove all leaves, fruits and buds, as well as cut out all weak and diseased shoots.
In addition, there is weak, medium and strong pruning. Corresponding examples are shown in Figure 4. After winter, the flowers are re-inspected and all dead parts are removed. After this, the main pruning begins. For this:
- Choose 4-5 strong and healthy shoots, located symmetrically. All weak, thin and muffling ones are removed. The remaining branches are shortened a little.
- Plants with flower buds located at the top of the stems do not need pruning.
- For park species, only old and diseased stems are removed, while for climbing species, all shoots are removed except for 5-6 annual ones. But if there are too few of them, you can leave some of the old ones, shortening them by about half.
- Hybrid tea and polyanthus are pruned heavily, leaving only 3-4 buds at the bottom.
Those plants that did not survive the winter well also need severe pruning. In general, the intensity depends on the variety and vigor of the bush.
For pruning, use only sharp pruning shears. If the tool is blunt, it will crush and tear the stems. An uneven cut can become infected and the flower will die. The cut should be positioned at an angle so that water drains from it, since stagnant liquid can become a source of infection. Before pruning, tools are disinfected in a warm solution of potassium permanganate, and the cut is treated with garden varnish.
Figure 4. Main types of pruning: a - weak, b - medium, c - strong, d - removal of wild growth at the root level In grafted plants, wild growth sometimes appears below the grafting site. It can be identified by its thorns and smaller leaves. Such shoots must be removed, as they can lead to the death of the plant. To do this, dig up the ground around the bush a little and remove the growth at the level of the buds located in the ground. If this is not done and pruning is done at ground level, wild buds will throw out several young shoots at once. General recommendations Trimming details are shown in the video.
In spring, regular watering of the bushes begins. Young seedlings that have just been planted are watered once every two days, and those that have already taken root - as the soil dries out (about once a week).
Note: The intensity of watering adult plants depends on the variety, weather and the ability of the soil to retain moisture.
It is especially important to water regularly during flowering and bud formation. If there is not enough liquid, the flowers will be small or begin to crumble. Do not use cold water in hot weather. As a result, the roots lose their ability to absorb moisture and the plant experiences prolonged water starvation.
Note: It is advisable to water with melt or rain water, as it contains less mineral salts. In addition, these flowers tolerate rare but abundant watering better. Frequent application of liquid in small quantities provokes the formation of superficial roots, which are easily damaged during loosening and weaken the plant.
To properly water the crop, make a small hole around the bush and surround it with an earthen roller. Externally, the hole resembles a bowl and prevents water from flowing out when watering. To water one bush, 10 liters of water will be enough. However, in the fall the amount of water is gradually reduced, and then completely stopped. It is important to ensure that the liquid does not get on the flowers and leaves. Also, water the roses better in the morning(Figure 5). You will learn more recommendations on watering from the video.
After each watering, the soil around the bush is loosened to a depth of 5 cm. This allows not only to remove weeds, but also to provide better access of air and water to the roots. The soil is loosened carefully so as not to accidentally damage the roots.
After loosening and watering the soil, it is necessary to mulch.
Figure 5. Proper watering of rose bushes During it, the soil around the treated bushes is covered with loose organic soil with a layer of no more than 8 cm. This manipulation has the following positive features (Figure 6):
- Allows you to preserve and prevent loss of moisture in the soil during summer droughts;
- The amount of weeding and loosening is significantly reduced;
- Protects plants from drying out and overheating during hot and windy weather;
- Prevents soil from silting during heavy rains.
Shredded tree bark, straw, compost, peat or rotted manure can be used as mulch. All these substances not only protect the soil, but also saturate it with useful elements.
Note: It is not recommended to use grass or sawdust, as they may contain weed seeds and pathogens.
As a rule, mulching is carried out in April or May, but sometimes the soil can be covered with mulch in the fall, but before the ground cools. Before mulching, be sure to remove all weeds. After the mulch has rotted, it is mixed with the top layer of soil and mulched again.
Figure 6. Loosening and mulching of garden varieties Roses respond very well to fertilizing. For example, you can use foliar fertilizers, which are applied to the leaves by spraying. The positive effect is noticeable within a few hours. Thanks to the use of this fertilizer, the general form, and the flowers become larger.
In the first year after planting, there is no need for additional fertilizing, provided that fertilizers were added to the soil during planting. After pinching, it is advisable to add liquid organic fertilizers to the soil. In the future, they need feeding annually. As a rule, mineral and organic fertilizers are applied alternately, 6-7 times a year.
Each element included in fertilizers has a positive effect:
- Nitrogen accelerates the growth of leaves and stems;
- Phosphorus accelerates flowering and strengthens roots;
- Potassium improves the quality of buds and flowers;
- Magnesium, calcium and other microelements improve overall health.
Full mineral fertilizer is applied in the spring, when the shelter is removed from the roses for the winter. In summer, both mineral and organic fertilizers are applied. This will have a positive effect on flowering. In late summer and early fall, reduce nitrogen to slow growth before winter dormancy. Common types of fertilizers are shown in Figure 7.
Roses are delicate garden plants that do not tolerate frost well and need shelter for the winter.
Note: Park species are considered the most winter-hardy. They do not need to be covered, but only covered with a layer of earth 20 cm high.
To increase winter hardiness, reduce the number of waterings in the fall, and replace nitrogen fertilizers with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. In rainy weather, drainage grooves are dug around the bushes to drain excess liquid, which can damage the roots.
Figure 7. Popular types of fertilizers (from left to right): liquid, organic and mineral In order for roses to survive the winter well, with the onset of the first frost, all young, fragile shoots, buds and leaves are removed. If left, they will rot during the winter and become a source of disease. For additional prevention, the bushes are sprayed with a solution Bordeaux mixture. Climbing and semi-climbing varieties are pinned to the ground, laid on pine branches (Figure 8). Additionally, each bush is hilled to protect the roots from frost. Examples of shelters for roses are shown in Figure 9.
Note: Roses are covered only after the onset of stable night frosts. Rare drops in temperature do not harm the bushes, but only increase their winter hardiness.
For high-quality shelter for the winter, use the air-dry method:
- A wire or wooden frame about half a meter high;
- A layer of insulation (for example, roofing felt) is laid on top and on the sides;
- Cover the top with a layer of plastic film.
Figure 8. Shelters for climbing and semi-climbing varieties In such a shelter, the plants will be reliably protected from the cold. The ends are left open and covered only after the temperature drops to minus 15 degrees.
Winter shelters can be completely removed only after the ground has completely warmed up and in the absence of night frosts. But you cannot open them too late, since the increased temperature under the film can lead to the death of the plants.
For better adaptation, the opening is carried out gradually:
- First, snow is removed from the film and drainage grooves are dug around the bushes to drain melt water;
- After this, they begin to do short-term ventilation, opening the end parts in warm weather;
- Next, you should make a hole in the top of the shelter;
- When the ground has completely thawed, it is loosened.
Figure 9. Options winter shelters for rose bushes After the soil has warmed up by 15-20 cm, they begin to gradually remove the cover, opening first the ends, then the top and sides. To prevent roses from getting sunburn, it is better to remove the cover on cloudy days or in the late afternoon.
Open bushes must be shaded, and the roots are unearthed only after the earth has completely warmed up. After this, weak and diseased stems are removed, and they are also sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture for prevention.
How to care for an indoor rose in a pot
Hybrid tea, remontant and polyanthus varieties are usually used as indoor roses. In fact, these are the same garden varieties, but smaller in size.
As with growing in the garden, roses kept at home require proper care: good lighting, regular watering and fertilizing. In addition, it is necessary to maintain optimal temperature and humidity conditions (Figure 10).
The soil
The soil in which indoor roses are grown should be nutritious, but not heavy. It is important that air constantly flows to the roots of the plant, so the soil in the pot must be loosened regularly.
If you plan to transplant a flower into a new container, it is better to buy special soil for indoor roses. This substrate is balanced in its main components and does not contain pest larvae or pathogens.
Lighting
I love indoor roses very much sunlight. Therefore, they can be safely placed on a well-lit southern windowsill. However, it should be borne in mind that in hot weather the leaves of the plant should not be sprayed during the day, as this can cause burns to delicate tissues.
Figure 10. Caring for roses in a pot In winter, the length of daylight hours extends artificially. To do this, install fluorescent lamps near the flower and leave them on so that the daylight hours are at least 12 hours.
Temperature
Despite the love for good lighting, indoor varieties very sensitive to temperature conditions. They do not like extreme heat and cold, so in the room where the rose pot is located, it is necessary to maintain a moderate temperature (no more than +20 degrees).
During the rest period, which lasts from October to February, the indicators drop to +5+8 degrees. This is necessary so that the rose gets stronger and does not awaken prematurely.
Air humidity
Along with temperature conditions and demanding soil conditions, indoor roses are very responsive to air humidity. To do this, the leaves are sprayed with boiled water at room temperature (up to two times a day).
Spraying is carried out in the morning and evening so that water that gets on the leaves does not cause burns. Spraying is carried out with special care in hot weather.
Chinese rose: home care
Chinese rose, or hibiscus, is an ornamental shrub with beautiful flowers different shades. Despite the fact that the inflorescences fade after just a few days, the bush constantly produces many new buds, so the bush blooms almost continuously. However, this feature will only be relevant if the hibiscus is provided with optimal care.
The value of hibiscus is that it is considered one of the most unpretentious crops for home. Among the main stages of care are:
- Regular watering: it is necessary to ensure that the earthen ball is always moderately moist. In summer, watering should be more intense, and in winter its frequency should be reduced.
- Liquid should not stagnate near the roots, so a drainage layer must be placed at the bottom of the pot.
- Maintaining an optimal level of air humidity is ensured by regular spraying. But you need to make sure that water does not get on the flower petals, otherwise they will begin to fall off.
- Fertilizing is applied every ten days during the flowering period, and reduced at the end of summer.
An adult plant needs to regularly trim old branches so that new shoots form on the bush. Every autumn, the shoots are shortened by a third of their length so that the plant can better withstand the winter.
Climbing roses: care and cultivation
Growing and properly caring for climbing roses will help you get a strong and healthy plant that will become a real decoration of your site.
Note: Thanks to their flexible climbing stems and lush inflorescences, these varieties are often used to decorate fences, building walls and gazebos.
Care climbing varieties includes a standard set of activities. The bushes need to be regularly watered and fed, as well as prevent diseases and pests. In addition, in the spring, all damaged and dry shoots are removed, and the bush is slightly thinned to stimulate the growth of young shoots and the formation of flower buds.
Figure 11. Options for using climbing varieties for garden decoration The main feature of growing and caring for climbing varieties is the installation of supports (Figure 11). You can use both special metal structures and any available materials. Climbing roses planted near old trees, which will gradually become covered with stems and buds, will look impressive.
Rose stock: planting, care and photo
Rose stock is scientific name ordinary mallow, which is often planted along fences or against the walls of houses. This plant does not grow well in any soil, but the rose stem still requires certain care, like other flower crops (Figure 12).
Figure 12. Planting a rose stem on the site During the flowering period, all wilted buds are removed from the stems, and the stems are shortened to a length of 30 cm. In addition, the stems need to be tied to pegs, since they can break in a strong wind. Mallow prefers moderate watering, but does not like acidic soils. If the soil on the site is fertile, fertilizing may not be necessary. On poor soils, fertilizers are applied about a week before flowering. For the winter, the plant must be covered with dry leaves or spruce branches.
Floribunda rose: planting and care with photos
Varieties of floribunda roses have been developed by breeders. The plants have a bush-like shape, and the flowers are collected in large and medium-sized inflorescences.
Well-lit areas, but with light shading in the middle of the day, are most suitable for planting. If the plant is exposed to intense sun throughout the day, it will quickly fade. It is also not recommended to plant flowers in areas with strong drafts.
Flowers of this type are very sensitive to watering. The most intensive watering is carried out during the awakening of the buds and after the end of the first wave of flowering, when new shoots begin to form on the bushes. In spring, combined fertilizers are added to the soil, which help the plant to awaken faster. In addition, the soil must be regularly loosened and freed from weeds. The earthen circle around the bush can be covered with mulch, which will prevent the soil from drying out and stop the growth of weeds. Anti-aging pruning is carried out annually to stimulate the growth of new shoots. Despite their resistance to cold weather, floribunda roses are recommended to be covered for the winter.
Rose mini mix: home care
Mini mix roses are attractive because they small sizes they are characterized by long and abundant flowering, and the buds can be of a wide variety of shades (Figure 13).
Figure 12. Growing mini mix roses Mini mix roses require fairly abundant watering, and the water should be settled and at room temperature. You can also spray the leaves with water at room temperature, and in winter you can completely replace watering with spraying.
In order for plants to bloom frequently and profusely, they need to be provided with good lighting. To do this, the flower is placed on a south or south-east window, and in winter the daylight hours are extended with fluorescent lamps.
Park roses: care and cultivation
Park varieties are most often grown in summer cottages. These are beautiful and relatively unpretentious flowers, which, however, require some care (Figure 14).
Note: plant park varieties need to be at some distance from each other so that the bushes can be conveniently maintained and covered for the winter.
Park varieties are watered quite intensively, especially in hot summers. However, you need to ensure that the earthen ball does not dry out, but is not too wet. In addition, during the awakening of the buds, the plants are fed, and for the winter they shorten the branches and cover the bushes with dry leaves or coniferous branches.
Tea rose: home care
Tea roses are resistant to adverse factors environment. However, this condition applies only to varieties that are cultivated in the garden. Crops that are grown at home are very finicky and require careful care.
Figure 14. Growing park roses Firstly, there must be enough light and fresh air in the room. Best for this the room will do with windows facing southeast or southwest. If you place a flower on a south-facing window, too intense lighting will cause the buds to dry out quickly and fall off. A comfortable temperature is considered to be +20+25 degrees. It is also necessary to ensure regular watering: the ground should be moist, but not wet. Therefore, when planting such a crop in a pot, be sure to place a layer of drainage on the bottom. In addition, indoor tea varieties are regularly sprayed with boiled water at room temperature, avoiding moisture getting on the flowers.
Many gardeners, first of all, are guided by the advice of their friends on how to care for roses, and in doing so make common mistakes. But in order for a garden rose to develop properly and bloom beautifully, caring for this royal flower must be carried out on the basis of professional recommendations.
Caring for young roses after planting
From the article you will learn how to properly care for roses, starting from the very first year, what procedures need to be performed in different time years, and what is the difference between pruning various types roses
Immediately after the rose seedlings have been planted, it is necessary to provide them with regular, abundant watering in the evening or morning. You should water carefully at the root of the seedling, avoiding erosion of the roots and water getting into the above-ground part. Daily watering is carried out until the plant is completely rooted, then it is enough to water once a week.
Video about caring for roses after winter
Very carefully, every month you need to loosen the ground under the bush, trying not to damage the fragile root system. With the onset of cold weather, the soil around the rose is compacted.
At spring planting roses, pruning of seedlings is done in advance, and if planted in autumn, the shoots are pruned the following spring, leaving about five of the strongest ones. Climbing roses do not need pruning.
In the first summer, all the buds are removed from the rose bush so that the plant develops properly, otherwise the rose simply will not be able to fully provide itself with all the necessary substances. Just when cutting buds, do not remove the leaves - the plant will still need them for photosynthesis. And make sure that no pests appear on the leaves.
In the first summer, all buds are removed from the rose bush so that the plant develops properly.
How to care for mature roses at different times of the year
Spring
Early spring is good for, and the soil is prepared in the fall or at least a month before transplanting. Before the buds open, the planted bushes are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture to protect the roses from fungal diseases.
In April, roses are pruned, removing all blackened and broken shoots to a strong living bud. Also during spring pruning attention is paid to the formation of a symmetrical beautiful bush. All cuts are lubricated with garden varnish.
In April, roses are pruned, removing all blackened and broken shoots to a strong living bud.
Trimming different types roses:
- Must be trimmed annually hybrid tea roses(almost all varieties), since they bloom on growths formed this year. With heavy pruning, all old shoots are removed, middle branches are cut in half, and young branches are cut to three to five buds.
- Floribunda rose varieties also produce flowers on young shoots. Combined pruning produces abundant flowering. In the first year, the bush is pruned by three to five buds, and subsequently the annual shoots are shortened by a third of the length. Three-year-old branches are completely cut off.
- Climbing grandiflora roses They bloom on last year's growths, and therefore only five-year-old branches should be removed. In summer, faded shoots are cut back to the nearest leaf.
- Ramblers bloom once on shoots that have successfully withstood frost. Pruning is done to the ring as soon as the roses have finished blooming. Old shoots need to be pruned so that they do not reduce the flowering of the bush.
- Scrubs also bloom on this year's shoots. Annual shoots are cut by a third and the branches growing inside the bush must be cut out.
- For standard roses, light pruning is enough, and in case of freezing, the branches are pruned to healthy buds.
Hybrid tea roses must be pruned annually.
Summer
Summer care for roses comes down to weeding, periodically loosening the soil, watering and fertilizing. Roses require abundant but infrequent watering, otherwise the root system of the plants will begin to develop close to the surface of the earth, and it can be easily damaged when loosened. On average, five liters of water per watering is enough for one rose bush, but if it is a climbing rose, up to fifteen liters may be required. It is not recommended to use cold and chlorinated water. You can tell that roses don’t have enough water by their small, quickly fading flowers.
Roses are fertilized with complex fertilizers before the start of mass flowering, and in August the bushes are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. The mulch under the bushes needs to be renewed periodically, as it is washed away by rain.
To prevent pests and diseases from appearing on roses, you need to spray the bushes with preparations containing copper in advance, in July.
To prevent pests and diseases from appearing on roses, you need to spray the bushes in advance, in July.
To stimulate abundant flowering, do not forget to remove fading buds. Also in summer, young long shoots should be pruned. And by the end of summer, reduce watering to a minimum.
Autumn
The main task of caring for roses in the fall is preparing the plants for the cold winter. In this regard, they gradually stop watering the roses, leaving only loosening the soil and weeding. The bushes are treated for prevention with one percent Bordeaux mixture. Pruning of faded shoots of climbing roses and most other varieties of roses is carried out.
With the arrival of night frosts, roses must be covered with a prepared dry mixture of soil, sand and peat. In floribunda roses, the stem, cut to 30 cm for the winter, should be almost completely covered with soil mixture; grandiflora and hybrid tea varieties Hill up to a height of 25 cm, tearing off all the leaves and flowers. The top of the bushes is covered with spruce branches, glassine, cardboard, film or sawdust. Groundcover, park and polyanthus roses just need to be trained a little, without pruning or covering them for the winter.
For the winter, climbing, climbing and bush roses need to be shortened by fifteen centimeters, the foliage should be torn off and the shoots bent to the ground, laying a film under them to insulate them from excess dampness coming from the ground. Also attach the film over the bent roses - in this case, spruce branches will not be needed. With the arrival of spring, you will first need to remove the top film, and then remove the film from the ground and tie the rose vines to the supports.
Video about caring for roses
Winter
Before the snow falls, you need to take care to protect your roses from rodents by spreading poison around the bushes. And when enough snow falls, sprinkle it on top covered roses, forming small snowdrifts. At the end of winter, it is recommended to periodically compact the snow around the bushes so that mice, due to lack of food, do not crawl under the shelter and gnaw the bark on the roses.
With the onset of thaws, you can begin to ventilate the rose bushes by temporarily lifting the spruce branches or polyethylene with which they were covered. It will be possible to completely remove the shelter only when the severe frosts end (approximately March-April) and the ground thaws.
Rose is the recognized and undisputed “queen of the garden.” Despite such a high title of this beautiful flower, caring for it is not at all difficult. If you are just planning to organize a rose garden in your garden, but do not know exactly how to grow roses, then in this article you will find answers to many of your questions.
There are many types and varieties of roses and many of them have their own characteristics agricultural techniques that must be taken into account when growing. The basic rules of care are approximately the same - moderate watering, pruning, fertilizing, disease and pest control and shelter for the winter.
Growing climbing roses
How to grow floribunda roses
Planting and caring for ground cover roses
Planting and growing park roses
Rules for growing home roses
Learning to grow roses from cuttings
How to properly cover roses for the winter
The best varieties of climbing roses
The best varieties of floribunda roses
The floribunda rose was developed by crossing musk, polyanthus and hybrid tea roses. Like polyanthas, it is quite resistant to disease and winter-hardy. Compared to hybrid teas, it has a longer flowering period, although it may be inferior to them in elegance.
However, this best decoration garden: the peculiarity of this variety lies in the arrangement of flowers. They grow on a shoot not singly, but as a whole inflorescence (several dozen flowers). Floribunda is easy to care for. Therefore, floribunda rose is often grown to decorate parks and gardens, especially in group compositions.
The floribunda variety includes roses that have large inflorescences and an almost continuous flowering period. They are most similar to hybrid teas both in flower shape and range of colors.
Rose is a plant belonging to the Rosehip family. In the wild, these flowers mainly grow in the temperate climate of the Northern Hemisphere, but in our middle lane In Russia, roses are grown when planting and caring for open ground, as well as at home.
General information
Roses are very attractive and are used not only as ordinary garden plants or houseplants. They are used in garden construction, to make jam from rose petals, as well as rose oil.
Growing up, roses form bushes with their shoots, the height of which differs depending on the type of plant. Some types of roses reach 30 cm in height, while others grow more than two and a half meters.
The branches of the plant are divided into uterine and annual stems. The leaf shape differs depending on the type of flower.
The size of the peduncle also varies among different species. It can be short, or it can grow almost a meter. There are rose flowers various forms and colors, the size varies from a couple of centimeters in diameter to 15-20 cm. The number of petals in flowers is also different, from 5 to 120 pieces.
Roses come in all possible colors - pink, black, white, even blue roses have been bred. And the pinnacle of breeders’ achievements are varieties that change color during flowering.
It is impossible to describe the huge variety of roses. Among cultivated roses, park and garden roses are distinguished; it is also worth remembering indoor varieties. The most commonly grown roses are bush roses, climbing roses, miniature roses, floribunda roses and grandiflora roses.
Rose planting and care in open ground
Roses are quite demanding plants, so planting and caring for them requires knowledge of the characteristics of this flower.
It is best to plant roses in the fall, but not later than mid-season. It is also recommended to purchase material for planting in the autumn, since in the spring they often sell leftovers from last year.
Rose hips are light-loving and you should choose an unshaded place for growing them, but if you have climbing roses, it is better that the midday sun does not burn them. Drafts and north wind have a bad effect on plants, and do not plant flowers in places where groundwater approach high to the surface.
To plant roses, you need to drain the soil, which should be slightly acidic (about 6 pH), fertility is not so important, but it affects the beauty of flowering, so fertile substrates are welcome.
Before planting roses, the seedlings are shortened to 20 cm and placed in water for a couple of hours. A hole for the rose is dug approximately 50 cm in depth, and the depth is made 10 cm deeper than its roots.
The soil from the pit must be mixed with compost. For three shares of soil, one share of compost is taken. It is also worth mixing a little ash into the substrate, and pouring a bucket of water with a heteroauxin tablet into the hole.
The rose is planted so that the grafting site drops four centimeters into the soil, and for climbing roses - ten centimeters.
The flower must be placed in the hole and carefully filled with substrate, trampling it down as the hole is filled. Young plants need to be hilled up to 15 cm and provided with shading for 15 days. Climbing roses spud up to 20 cm.
A distance of at least a meter must be maintained between landing sites.
Not far from the bushes, you need to heat up a small shaft of soil so that the water does not spread when watering.
If the groundwater is too high on your site, then you need to make an elevated flower bed for the roses, otherwise the roots will often rot.
Also, if the soil where you want to plant plants is very clayey, then you need to dig it up with sand.
Planting roses in open ground in spring
Young roses may not withstand very cold winters, so if you live in very frosty regions, plant flowers in the spring. The best period at this time is mid-April and almost all of May.
The planting process in spring is almost no different from autumn. Right before planting, the seedlings should be dipped in clay mash, and after planting, the area should be covered with mulch.
If there is a threat of frost, then the stems must be covered with film, which must be removed for a while every day for ventilation. The time without film should be gradually increased, since the plants are hardened in this way. The film is completely removed when the frost is probably gone.
During the first year after planting, roses go through a period of formation. At this time, the main thing is to pinch the stems to improve bushiness. It is also important in the first half of the summer to remove flower buds as soon as they begin to appear. In the second period of summer, the buds are also removed, but after formation. If you have a climbing rose, then it needs to be supported.
Watering roses
You don’t need to water the flowers often, but only as needed, when the soil dries out. Only first-year plants need regular watering, which should be watered every couple of days.
During the growing season, watering is carried out a little more often so that the green mass develops better. And at the end of summer, on the contrary, watering is reduced. It is preferable to carry out the procedure in the morning. Cold water should not be used.
You need to water the bushes carefully, because water can erode the soil; it is best to use drip irrigation.
Fertilizers for roses
As far as fertilizer goes, the first yearlings do not need to be fed at all. Next, fertilizers must be applied in this way.
In the spring, during the active growth stage, a double dose of fertilizer is applied, then fertilizing is carried out during the appearance of buds, at the end of flowering and before the stems begin to wooden.
In the spring, 20 grams of ammonium sulfate per square meter of soil is used for fertilizer. After a couple of weeks, this fertilizer is repeated. During the formation of buds, fertilizing is carried out using 20 g of ammonium nitrate, 30 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt per square meter.
At the end of flowering, the plant is fed with complex fertilizer, and in the fall with potassium salt with superphosphate, approximately 30 grams per square meter. Among organic fertilizers, chicken droppings, ashes, and manure are excellent. Fertilizers are not applied during the flowering period.
For adult roses, it is possible to fertilize only with organic matter, but do not overdo it, otherwise the plant may produce dense foliage but not bloom.
When to replant roses
Over time, roses grow and lose their beauty and when this happens they need to be replanted. Transplantation is best done in April or October, but spring is still preferred.
Before replanting, the bush is cut to 20 cm, and all leaves are torn off. The bush must be removed from the soil along with the earthen lump. To make it easier to move, the roots are placed on a piece of cloth. You can plant a rose with this fabric; it will rot over time.
Climbing roses are transplanted much less frequently; usually this only happens if a bad place for growing is chosen and if the plant dies in its old place. When transplanting this variety of roses, you need to be more careful, since their roots are more sensitive than others.
Pruning roses
Bushes need to be pruned in spring, summer and autumn. Spring pruning is carried out to form the shape of the bush; in summer it is carried out to clean the bushes from excess buds, withered flowers, and fruits. In autumn, bad stems are removed from the plant.
Pruning is carried out until the buds swell. Only strong branches should be left, of which young ones are preferred.
Old plants need to be pruned more carefully, as they restore the crown worse, and the same applies to flowers planted on poor soil. After the operation, the cut areas must be treated with garden varnish.
In the fall, these rose hips do not require watering or special care other than weeding and loosening the soil.
Preparing roses for the winter
Before winter, they need to be covered with a mixture of peat and sand. Hilling is carried out with the onset of the first frost, and the area is covered with film to prevent precipitation from falling on them.
Before wintering, the leaves are torn off the plants and burned. It is also advisable to treat the bushes with a one percent solution of copper sulfate. When the night temperature drops to -6ºC, roses are insulated with spruce branches.
To prevent rodents from disturbing your plants in winter, you need to scatter poisonous baits throughout the flowerbed.
If you have covered the area with insulation and oilcloth, then from time to time it will need to be ventilated so that the bushes do not get stuck.
Climbing roses should be removed from their supports and lowered to the ground before winter. Old roses do not lie well and therefore, you will need to bend them to the ground gradually. This procedure must be carried out at above-zero temperatures, otherwise the bushes will break. Before wintering climbing rose pinned in the soil, and insulated in the same way as a regular one.
Rose home care at home
If you want to get an indoor rose, then remember that they don’t like cold water and too hot temperatures in the summer.
When buying a plant, you should not rush to replant it; first you need to wait for the rose to get used to the new conditions.
During the period of growing green mass, you need to water the rose well, and other times, watering is carried out a little less frequently, but make sure that the water does not stagnate in the pot.
Rose transplantation is carried out by transshipment during the waxing moon phase. It is necessary to carry out an operation if the plant has filled the entire pot, if the soil in the container with the plant is depleted, or if the plant is old and needs to be rejuvenated.
Good for summer indoor rose will move her to the balcony. You can start putting out the flower after the night temperature becomes warm. At first, the rose needs to be kept in the shade so that it adapts, and then it is moved to diffused light.
For winter, the stems need to be cut so that there are 4 buds on each branch. Pruning can also be done in the spring, before the plant begins to develop. In winter, the flower is watered once every three days and sprayed.
Roses are very sensitive to drafts and protecting the plants with a paper cylinder will be a good solution to this problem (the height of the cylinder is about half the flower).
Propagation of roses by seeds
Roses are propagated by seeds and vegetative methods. Seed propagation is usually used only for wild roses, and not all of them can produce full-fledged seeds.
The material is taken at the stage when the fruits become red. This usually happens in August or a little earlier.
Next, stratification is carried out in wet sand at a temperature of about 3 ºC. With the onset of spring, the seeds are treated with stimulants for better root formation and sown to a depth of two centimeters, and then covered with humus mulch.
When the sprouted roses have a pair of true leaves, they are replanted so that the seedlings are 7 cm apart and the gap between the rows is 20 cm. In summer, the area with young roses must be fertilized with mineral fertilizer.
You need to take care of the bushes until next August, and then they are taken as a rootstock.
Rose propagation by cuttings in summer
Usually, the best results are obtained by propagation by cuttings, which can be done in different ways.
For a simple natural method of rooting shoots in summer, you need to cut the stems in the evening or early morning. Slightly woody shoots or those that will soon begin to bloom or have recently faded are preferred.
You can find out that the stem is ready for propagation by breaking off the thorn on it. If it breaks off easily, then you can use the shoot as a cutting.
The length of the cuttings should be approximately 14 cm, and each of them should have a pair of leaves and buds without flowers. Excess leaves are torn off.
The incision is treated with a means to stimulate root growth and placed in water, to which pieces of a rose leaf are added.
The cuttings are planted directly into the ground, having previously treated the planting holes with a solution of potassium permanganate.
The branches need to be covered with jars that will serve as greenhouses for them. Young cuttings are very sensitive and the daytime temperature should not drop below 25 ºC and the night temperature 19ºC until rooting takes place.
Propagation of roses by cuttings in potatoes
An interesting way is to root cuttings in potatoes. To do this in the spring, you need to dig a shallow trench, about 15 cm, and fill it 5 cm with sand.
Twenty-centimeter cuttings are stuck into potatoes, from which all the eyes need to be cut out, and then they are simply placed in your small moat with sand. At first, seedlings can be kept under glass jars.
It is important to constantly water the cuttings, and once every 5 days, water with sweetened water (2 teaspoons of sugar per glass of water).
How to propagate a rose from cuttings from a bouquet
If you were given a bouquet of domestic roses, then they can be used for propagation. Imported flowers are not suitable as they are treated with preservatives.
All flowers, thorns, buds are removed from the cuttings, and the leaves from below are removed and shortened from above. The stem itself is cut to 20 cm. Next, it is simply placed in distilled water, which is changed until roots appear.
Further procedures do not differ from those described above for conventional cuttings.
Propagation of roses by cuttings in a bag
The finished cuttings are placed in a bag with moist soil, inflated and tied well, and then placed on the windowsill. In about a month, roots should form and the cuttings can be planted.
Replanting cuttings is done before winter, if you want to plant cuttings in the spring or if you received the desired cutting late and it seems difficult to preserve it.
Just dig the shoot into the soil and arrange a dry shelter for it so that the cold does not reach it, and in the spring, plant the cutting.
Propagation of roses using the Burito method
The Burito method is completely unreliable, since root formation does not occur even in 50% of cases. But sometimes it still happens.
The cuttings should be treated with a means to stimulate root growth, and then placed in damp newspaper in a dark, warm place (about 17ºC). You will have a chance that after 15 days the cuttings will form roots, but let's be honest - this chance is scanty.
Rose propagation using the Trannois method
To propagate by this type, you need to cut off the top of the shoot with a flaccid flower and several small leaves. Then it is monitored until the buds from below begin to swell. This indicates that the stem is ready for growing season.
At this time, the cuttings need to be cut to 20 cm, all leaves except the top two should be removed and planted in a well-lit area, several copies at once in one hole. The cuttings need to be covered with a large plastic container, which is not removed until cold weather. The seedlings will need to be watered occasionally and the soil next to them loosened.
This method is also quite unreliable, but still better than the previous one.
Propagation of roses by grafting
They need to be grafted onto young rose hips. The dog rose and its varieties are considered the best for this, but others can also be used. The vaccination is usually done in mid-summer.
To do this, the side stems are removed from the rootstock and its root neck is cleared of soil. A T-shaped incision is made on it into which the cutting is placed. After 20 days, check the condition of the kidney. If it swells, then everything is fine, but if it turns black, then the grafting failed. Before wintering, grafted roses are planted 5 cm above the grafting level.
In the spring, the ground is raked, and the plant on which the grafting was carried out is cut off a centimeter above the grafting site. When the flower begins to grow, it will need to be pinched above the third leaf.
Reproduction of roses by dividing the bush is possible only for ungrafted species
For such propagation, you need to dig up the rose in the spring, even before the buds begin to bloom, and cut it so that each section contains a part of the root and a shoot. The cut areas are powdered with charcoal and then parts of the bush are simply planted like ordinary roses.
To propagate a rose by layering, you need in early spring make a circular cut on the stem that grows from the root collar, and then bend it into the hole, secure it and sprinkle it with moist soil. Next, the soil will need to be moistened until the fall, when the cuttings take root. It will be possible to separate the cub from the mother next spring.
Diseases and pests
The most terrible pests for roses are aphids and spider mites . In the early stages, you can fight aphids by simply cutting off the leaves or crushing the aphids, you can also wash the leaves with soap, but if this does not help, you need to buy an insecticide “for roses and grapes” in a specialized store.
WITH spider mite You can fight with an infusion of wormwood or tobacco, but if the pest has spread too much, it is better to buy a means to combat it. This pest attacks the rose if it grows in dry conditions and lacks moisture.
The rose can also be attacked thrips , cicadas , rose sawfly , but if you properly care for the plant, they will not appear.
Rose diseases
One of the diseases dangerous to roses is bacterial cancer , which can be recognized by growths that gradually harden. This disease cannot be cured and the plant will die.
Inspect the material before purchasing, and also disinfest it before planting with three percent Bordeaux mixture. If you notice growths on the plant, try removing the leaves and processing the cuts copper sulfate, but there is no guarantee that you will have time to help the flower.
Koniothirium This is a disease that affects the bark of plants. It appears in the form of brown spots, which darken over time and “ring” the stem. These shoots must be cut off and burned immediately. Also, if this disease is detected, before winter you need to stop fertilizing the rose with nitrogen and replace it with potassium fertilizers.
powdery rose appears as white spots. Diseased areas should be immediately removed and burned, and the plant should be treated with iron (3%) or copper (2%) sulfate.
Brown spots on the leaves and the falling of the latter indicate black spot . To prevent the development of the disease, you need to fertilize the rose with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers in the fall, and also treat the plant and the area where it is grown with Bordeaux mixture (3%).
Also the rose can get sick gray mold , after which the plant is most often burned. But, if the fungus has not taken hold, then you can try to cure it with Bordeaux solution diluted in water (100 grams per bucket). The diseased plant will need to be treated in this way 3-4 times every seven days.
Possible difficulties:
- If your rose doesn't bloom , then perhaps you simply purchased a weak plant or a variety that rarely blooms. This also happens if the flower lacks light or nutrients. The lack of flowering can be caused by freezing in winter. But the most dangerous reason for the lack of flowering, in which the rose loses its varietal properties, is the wildness of the plant.
- If you notice shoots with small leaves and an abundance of thorns , then cut them off immediately (usually such stems appear from the very bottom of the bush). If you don’t fight them, then over time these shoots take over the entire bush and it runs wild.
- The leaves of the roses are falling they can if they are affected by pests or disease, and besides this, the cause is often hidden in the roots of the plant. The root can rot, and there are also cases of damage by mole crickets or chafer larvae, mice and moles.
- Rose leaves turn yellow , in addition to diseases, may be from a basic lack of useful substances such as: nitrogen, iron and manganese, as well as potassium.
With a lack of nitrogen, the leaves turn yellow alternately. First, this happens to the bottom layer, which falls off after yellowing. Next, the same fate awaits the middle leaves, and then the entire bush. With a lack of potassium, the leaves begin to turn yellow at the edges, and then dry out. If there is a lack of microelements, the veins on the leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow. Another cause of yellowness is excess moisture in the soil.
Agricultural technology for growing roses in open ground in the photo
Agricultural technology for growing roses in open ground involves timely pinching of strongly growing shoots - in this way you can adjust the shape of the bush. Sometimes only one eye under the pruning site produces a shoot that grows very long, which spoils the appearance of the entire plant, especially in. When such a shoot appears in May, it is likely that the first early flower may soon appear at its end.
However, it is better to sacrifice them and pinch out the young shoot, leaving 3-4 eyes, from which new stems will grow, suitable for forming a beautiful crown of the plant. A pinched rose will produce more than one flower in the same year, although somewhat later.
Sometimes a rose shoot ends in a single leaf without an eye. The flower no longer forms here. In order to grow roses correctly, as practice shows, such a so-called “blind” shoot must be cut off above the nearest leaf where there is a healthy eye, and then a new shoot capable of blooming will later grow from it.
If the rose was planted incorrectly and was not properly cared for, it may produce rosehip shoots below the budding site. The leaves of these shoots, in contrast to the leaves of cultivated varieties, are lighter, of a different size and with a different number of leaflets. They have different thorns.
To grow beautiful roses like in a nursery, you need to remove these wild shoots. To do this, you should open the root collar of the bush and part of the roots, and carefully cut out the shoots at the very root. Sometimes an escape is enough, if it is young, just pull it out. However, by cutting it off at the surface of the ground, as is often done, the gardener thereby, on the contrary, awakens the shoot to more intensive growth and branching.
These photos of growing roses and caring for them show how to properly pinch:
Agricultural technology for growing roses in the photo 
Pinching roses in the photo
- Beginner gardeners often have problems - they planted a rose, and after 2-3 years it turned into a “wild one”. Know that a rose bush cannot be reborn into a rose hip. You just didn’t cut out the wild root growth in a timely manner, and it “strangled” the cultivated part of the plant. Pay special attention to roses in the first years after, as later the root is older and less wild growth forms on it.
- When growing self-rooted roses, there is no need to remove wild shoots and the cost of planting material is significantly reduced.
Watch a video on how to grow roses at personal plot:
How to grow beautiful garden roses: proper watering during care
The role of watering when caring for roses is not as great as for other garden plants. Since they send their roots deep into the ground and from there get the necessary moisture, the bushes look fresh and healthy even when the leaves of other bushes wither due to prolonged heat.
But how to grow healthy roses on the plot if the summer drought period has dragged on? This often happens in the southern region in June, July and August. In this case, it is very desirable for roses to be watered at least once a month. The norm is 20-30 liters per plant or per 1 m2 of rose garden area. Self-rooted roses more often need watering, as well as those growing on too light or sandy, permeable soil that does not retain moisture well.
Proper watering of roses is carried out only in the morning and evening hours. The best way to water is by flooding (the hose is placed directly to the bush itself and water is released under low pressure so that it flows out slowly). Short watering with strong water pressure will not help, because the moisture will not reach the roots of the plant, will remain only in the top layer of soil and will quickly evaporate, without benefiting the bushes.
For better preservation moisture and air exchange in the soil after each watering and rain, loosening is necessary.
When watering roses, remember that the less water gets on the leaves, the better; it is advisable not to water them at all. Foliage that remains wet for a long time is more susceptible to infection by fungal diseases (black spot, powdery mildew, botrytis - gray mold, etc.).
Although roses often grow well without watering, know that with sufficient soil moisture, more vigorous and abundantly flowering bushes develop.
How to grow roses in the garden yourself: the better way to mulch the bushes
Mulching plays a major role in the agricultural technology of growing roses - covering the soil around the bush with a 3-5 cm layer of peat and sawdust. What else can you use to mulch roses in the garden? For this purpose, you can use humus, compost or mowed grass. lawn grass. Carry out mulching in the spring, immediately after unhilling and pruning bushes or loosening the soil around uncovered varieties.
To grow roses yourself, as practice shows, mulch material late autumn along with the soil there will be good material for covering (hilling up) bushes. In one or two years sawdust and the mown grass will rot and become good organic fertilizer, like humus, compost and partially peat.
At proper care When growing roses in the garden in mulched areas, the soil structure significantly improves. The soil becomes looser, does not compact when watering, does not form a crust, the number of weeds is significantly reduced, the harmful effects of soil overheating on the root system are eliminated, roots develop better, and less wild shoots (rose hips) appear, on which most varieties are grafted. Mulching is especially effective in areas where there is no possibility of watering.
Growing and caring for roses: proper pruning in spring (with video)
Pruning bushes is one of the important techniques for caring for roses in the garden. The decorative appearance of plants, the splendor of their flowering, the intensity of damage by pests and diseases, and, finally, their durability depend on pruning.
When caring for roses, pruning of roses is done at least three times a year (spring, summer and autumn). The most important pruning is in the spring.
After removing the cover, when the buds swelling on the shoots are clearly visible, the bushes are thinned. This type of pruning of roses in the spring involves removing dying and unnecessary branches and shoots that are not important for flowering. As a result of removing excess shoots, the plant will direct more nutrients to those shoots that can use them with greater effect for flowering.
At the same time correct pruning In the spring of roses, the remaining shoots are also shortened in order to awaken the lower buds to grow, which ensure flowering. In this case, we give the plant the opportunity to direct nutrients to the development of flowers to achieve the highest quality.
When pruning, depending on the group of roses, pruning can be short, medium and long. The cut is made above the eye looking outwards of the bush. In order for the plant to form correctly, young shoots should not grow inside the bush.
How to prune roses to shape beautiful bush? The cut should be completely smooth and pass 0.5 cm above the bud with a slight slope in the opposite direction from it. The cuts must be immediately covered with garden varnish, then moisture will not be retained on them, and the risk of various infections entering through fresh wounds will be reduced. When working, avoid flattening and injuring plant tissues, and do not allow the bark to break.
When pruning short, remove most escape, leaving a stump with about 2-3 eyes. With medium or shorter pruning, 4-8 eyes are left. With long pruning, only the tip of the shoot is removed, and the number of eyes can be indefinite. In this case, the thickness of the shoots plays a role.
Most varieties grown by gardeners require short pruning. They tolerate heavy pruning without any damage to their livelihoods.
When caring during cultivation garden roses hybrid tea varieties - small-flowered and large-flowered and low-growing varieties other groups.
Medium and less short pruning is sufficient for remontant varieties (with the exception of low-growing varieties, which are also pruned short) and some vigorous varieties of hybrid tea and other groups.
When pruning all roses, it is necessary to thin out the bushes. At the same time, weak, deformed (unnaturally twisted), broken, dying shoots, as well as those with signs of damage or. They are cut off at the very base, leaving no stumps. Damaged stems are shortened to healthy tissue (with a white core).
There are four types of spring pruning of roses: preventive, thinning, formative and rejuvenating. Preventive pruning is done in early spring to eliminate fungal diseases. Thinning is carried out in spring and summer, removing old shoots with fading growth and branches growing inside the bush. This pruning helps abundant flowering. It is also used for rejuvenating old park and bushes.
There are three types of shaping pruning: strong, medium and weak.
With strong pruning, 1-2 well-developed buds are left on the shoot, with medium pruning - 3-6, with weak pruning - only the tips of the shoots are removed.
As a rule, heavy pruning is used for polyanthus and miniature roses, medium - for hybrid tea, floribunda and grandiflora roses, weak - for park and climbing roses.
Immediately after spring pruning, preventive spraying is carried out against pests, if the kidneys are dormant, copper or iron sulfate(100-150 g per 10 liters of water), if a green cone has formed (the buds have started to grow) - 3% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (Abiga-Pik, Oksikhom, Copper Oxychloride, etc. .).
The video “Care, Growing and Pruning Roses” clearly demonstrates how to shape a bush in spring:
How to grow roses on the site and how to prune bushes in summer
All roses tend to develop a lot of extra weak shoots. Among them there are “blind” ones that do not bear flowers. Leaving all the shoots on the bush in the summer is useless and even harmful, as they lead to excessive thickening of the bush. How to prune roses correctly in summer? To do this, at the beginning of summer it is necessary to cut into rings (to the base) shoots directed into the bush, underdeveloped and “blind”. And then carry out summer pruning depending on the purpose for which you are growing roses: for flower decoration in the garden or summer cottage or obtaining commercial cut flowers.
In September, you need to stop cutting flowers, and starting from the second half of the month, do not water or loosen the soil around the bushes. Weeds must be removed. Then the shoots will ripen better and wintering will be successful. Even before the first frost, it would be good to lightly cover the roses with loose soil. That's all the preparatory operations.
With the onset of persistent cold weather, before covering the roses for the winter, you need to remove all leaves from the bushes, then trim off diseased, weak and immature shoots and shorten healthy ones to 40 cm.
The second period occurs in late autumn - early winter, when the air temperature is within -2...-3°C. At this time, plant cells are dehydrated, starch turns into sugars and fats, which helps lower the freezing point of plant tissue.
When caring for roses, before covering, the bushes are sprayed with 2% iron sulfate against fungal infections.
In the southern region, it is quite enough to cover the roses with loose soil, making mounds 15-20 cm high.
Hilling up more than 20 cm is impractical, since in winters with frequent thaws it impairs air access to the stems of the bushes.
Most gardeners, when hilling roses, take the soil right there, near the plants. In this case, pits and grooves as deep as a spade bayonet are formed, and the most active part of the root system is damaged and exposed. This ultimately leads to growth inhibition and poor flowering of the bushes, since nutrition is not supplied from the most fertile soil layer.
You should know that the root system of traditional spray roses, grafted on rose hips, develops mainly in the surface horizon to a depth of 50-60 cm. And in the upper layer of soil (8-10 cm), horizontal roots spread to the sides of the bush by 80-100 cm. There are, of course, vertical roots, which go deep up to 1.5 m, but they supply mainly water.
Except mechanical damage roots in the holes formed around the bushes in the autumn-winter months, water stagnates and freezes, causing even more damage to the roots. Therefore, you should not expose the roots of roses.
As shown in the photo, in order to cover roses for the winter, the soil for hilling must be taken from another place or the bushes must be covered with humus, peat, compost, leaf soil, finally, sand, sawdust or leaf litter, and on top with material such as agrotex:
Covering roses under film for the winter (photo) 
In the photo, covering roses for the winter
In central Russia, all groups of roses suffer greatly without special shelter for the winter, and sometimes freeze completely.
South of central Russia, the most winter-hardy are park roses, which do not need shelter for the winter. Then come the polyanthus and hybrid-polyantha roses, which require moderate covering, and then the hybrid tea roses, which require the most careful covering.
How to cover roses correctly so that they overwinter successfully? To do this, another layer of tree foliage or spruce branches is placed on top of the hilling, and sometimes film or roofing felt so that the shelter does not get wet.
When covering roses for the winter, you should not use plastic film, as condensation forms on it, which increases humidity and contributes to the development of fungal diseases. The film does not allow fresh air to pass through, heat stagnates in the sun under it, and the subsequent cold snap has an even more severe effect on the plants.
- Wild roses and once-blooming roses bush roses no special protection is needed for the winter. They are resilient enough to withstand all kinds of bad weather. Even if any of the shoots dies from frost, simply cut it off as low as possible in the spring.
- Newly planted bushes, as well as roses that bloom again, should be covered for the winter (covered with earth to a depth of 15-20 cm).
- Sudden changes in temperature during the winter months are more dangerous for roses than just extreme cold.
The video “How to cover roses for the winter” shows how to protect bushes from frost:
How and when to remove cover from roses in spring
Many novice gardeners are interested in when to remove cover from roses in the spring. This does not need to be done right away. As soon as the soil thaws and shakes out, the hillock that has become compacted over the winter is slightly loosened. This will provide better air access to the plants and will help the cover layer dry out. With the onset of warm weather, rose buds quickly swell and begin to grow. It is necessary to unplant roses not immediately, but in parts, in order to delay the development of roses as much as possible, and most importantly, to protect them from recurring night frosts.
In order to prevent fungal infection at this time, spray the bushes with Bordeaux mixture (3% if the buds are dormant, or 1% if they have already begun to grow). This spraying will help preserve shoots that have become moldy over the winter, but are still alive.
If you know when to remove the cover from roses in the spring, keep in mind that delaying the opening of the bushes is also dangerous, because tender shoots that have sprouted without access to light will immediately be exposed to direct sunlight and wind and may die.
In such cases, the bark gets sunburned, it turns brown, cracks and begins to peel off; the shoots dry out and the plant dies. Therefore, it is necessary to finally unplant the roses on a cloudy day, and if the sun appears, shade the bushes that have begun to grow with non-woven material (agryl, agrotex, green-tex, etc.). Keep this material ready in case you need to cover the bushes at night in case of unexpected frost.
It is known that hybrid tea roses have an increased ability to restore damaged shoots, since the bushes have a large number of“dormant” reserve buds from which new shoots develop. Since spring, such bushes need to be given 1-2 fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizer (urea - 20-25 g per 1 m2 with an interval of 12-15 days), keep the soil moist (in the absence of precipitation - regular watering of at least 10 liters of water per bush). This will contribute to the restoration of vital activity and the rapid regrowth of young shoots in roses.
Severely affected, especially in harsh winters, do not rush to throw away rose bushes in the spring, even if others nearby have already begun to grow, and these are still without signs of life. If they were planted correctly (the budding area is 5-7 cm below the ground level), water the bushes several times with “Kornevin” or “Kornerost”, spray with “Epin” - the roses may move away in late May - early June.
Caring for roses: fertilizer and feeding
An important part of caring for roses is feeding; it is needed to ensure proper nutrition bushes Roses have a good “appetite”. For optimal growth and development, roses require mineral and organic fertilizers. Mineral fertilizers must contain nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and magnesium.
Nitrogen fertilization when caring for roses stimulates the growth of new powerful shoots with beautiful dark green foliage, so it is applied at the beginning of the season. In the fall, roses are not fed with nitrogen, otherwise the young tender shoots that have grown by winter will die at the first frost. It is best to apply nitrogen fertilizers immediately after pruning roses, that is, in April-May. If necessary, fertilizing with nitrogen can be repeated after the end of the first wave of flowering.
Fertilizing with phosphorus when caring for roses is necessary for the development of new roots, the formation of buds and flowers. Considering that superphosphate acts slowly, for it maximum effect It is better to apply in early spring.
Potassium also plays a big role in the health of roses. Its deficiency reduces plant resistance to disease. This element is applied to roses in the form of ready-made potassium fertilizer, best in early July. Among potassium fertilizers, choose fertilizers containing magnesium, another important element for roses (potassium magnesium or potassium magnesium). Yellow leaves with green veins - a sign of magnesium deficiency.
How and what to feed and fertilize roses
Typically, roses need to be fertilized three times a year: at the end of October, compost or humus is applied to the bushes, in April - nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizer, and at the end of flowering - potash.
Before feeding roses, carefully study the information on the calculated doses of fertilizers per 1 m2, which is indicated on the packaging of each fertilizer.
Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers must be alternated with fertilizing with organic matter. Organic fertilizers do not contain mineral salts. They consist of rotted animal waste or plant origin. The effect of such fertilizers is based not only on supplying plants with nutrients, but also on activating biological processes in the soil and thereby enriching it with humus.
Organic fertilizers must first interact with soil microorganisms and be brought into a form that can be better absorbed by plants. Therefore, unlike mineral fertilizers, which are usually absorbed very quickly, organic ones take time to digest.
Organic fertilizers are applied in larger quantities than mineral fertilizers (up to one bucket per bush). But this source of nutrients lasts longer.
How to fertilize roses with manure? It is introduced into the ground in advance, even before planting the seedlings. Manure is filled into upper layer soil, adding approximately 8-10 kg/m2 on light soils and about half of this norm on heavy soils.
The best manure is cow manure. Horseweed is more caustic, it should be used carefully, and in a well-decomposed form (humus).
A good organic fertilizer is not only humus, but also rotted compost and leaf soil from old forest belts, where the top layer of soil up to 10-15 cm thick is removed for fertilizer. This layer is light and very nutritious, it consists of perennial leaf litter.
The selection of photos “How roses are grown” shows what fertilizers are used for these plants:
Fertilizing roses in the photo 
Spraying roses in the photo
During the summer, roses need foliar feeding with solutions of mineral fertilizers (Agro Lux, Zdraven, Mortar, Potassium Humate and other water-soluble compounds in turn). Such fertilizers contain nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and microelements: boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc, etc. These substances not only provide good growth and development of roses, but also increase their resistance to diseases and pests.
In dry years, fertilizers are applied less than in years with heavy rains; nitrogen is used especially carefully.
As a rule, fertilizing should be completed no later than August, so that the rose shoots can ripen well before the arrival of winter.
In the first year after planting, roses are not fed. Knowing how and with what to fertilize roses, remember that they begin to apply mineral fertilizers only from the second year and then do this regularly. In the spring, when the buds open, shoots form, leaves appear and the first flowers form - at this time the plants have a greater need for nitrogen. In summer, roses need fertilizing with potassium and phosphorus for the second and subsequent flowering.
