The better to sheathe a wooden house from the outside: materials, photos, reviews. Sheathing with clapboard outside the house is just Cladding a house with clapboard

In the photo - the beginning of work on sheathing the house with wooden panels

Clapboard sheathing on the outside of the house is a great choice for those who decide to improve the exterior of the house, as such a finish will allow you to change its appearance. In addition, the use of eurolining as sheathing material will improve the properties of insulation, in particular sound and heat.

This article will tell you not only how to sheathe a house with clapboard from the outside, but also help you choose the right material.

Types of panels by raw material

In total, there are two main types of lining, depending on the feedstock - wooden and PVC. It is possible to talk about which option should be preferred, and, only by studying their features.

Features of plastic outer lining:

long service life (no decay process);
no need for care;
external plastic lining is not affected by the environment.

Features of wooden lining:

elegant design;
high levels of sound insulation;
thermal conductivity is low.

Wooden lining, also known as lining for exterior finish, can be divided into a simple variant and . The separation takes place taking into account the use of estimated data for comparison with generally accepted standards.

The main standard for the production of this material is GOST 8242-88, abroad DIN 68126. At the same time, import indicators are somewhat different from Russian ones due to the external indicators of wood, more deliberate geometric properties, which cannot but lead to the fact that the price of the material is significantly higher.

The basics of choosing eurolining

Before you start choosing a material for sheathing, you should study a few rules:

To avoid further deformation of the material, which occurs as a result of shrinkage and leads to the formation of cracks, you should choose the type of lining, the humidity of which will lie in the range from 10 to 15%;

Tip: Ask the seller to confirm the declared humidity - if he refuses, there is reason to think about the advisability of buying.

Be sure to inspect the material for wormholes and foreign spots;
The number of knots in the selected material should be minimal.

Note! Sheathing the house with clapboard from the outside should be made from a material created from conifers, since hardwoods (not counting aspen) are not suitable for outer skin.

Installation stages

Vapor barrier fasteners;
Installation of the frame itself;
Installation of thermal insulation;
Carrying out waterproofing;
The construction of the frame of the second;
Exterior lining .

Vapor barrier fastener

Initially, you should choose a material that will act as a vapor barrier, usually roofing material, aluminum foil, or even ordinary plastic wrap is used for this purpose.

When starting a simple painting, you should observe some nuances:

The entire surface is pre-treated grinder. It requires the presence of fixed sandpaper (grain 40-25-80 or 120);
In the case of using oil paint, it is necessary to apply drying oil in two layers, and apply the paint only after it has completely dried.

Results

Despite the fact that everyone can take advantage of the opportunity to sheathe a house with clapboard from the outside, this process requires certain physical and time costs. Great analogue wooden finish will be plastic outer lining.

On our site you can find a large number of videos that allow you to take out some valuable tips and step-by-step instructions.

There are many types of finishing works and ways to improve the appearance and condition of your home. One of the solutions is lining the house with clapboard!

You will find the stages of this work, which includes the choice of material and step-by-step actions, by reading this article.

Variety of lining

What is a lining? This is a long wooden plank, ready for use after numerous woodworking jobs. The thickness of such a board is usually no more than 20-22 cm. This standard lining, but there is this type of material, but already consisting not of wood, but of plastic (plastic lining).

Each of the proposed materials is undoubtedly practical and each is endowed with its own qualities and advantages.

Let's talk about plastic outer lining!

artificial material, which this lining consists of, does not rot, which means that this material is very durable!
The smooth surface and special composition of this product is not exposed to the aquatic environment, which means that it has water-repellent properties!
And since we already talked about water repellency above, it's time to say that this material is the best in caring for it, which means it is very easy to wash (clean).
The service life will also please you very much 25-30 years - this is very decent!

Let's talk about the usual classic wooden lining known to everyone!

Good appearance, you can safely sheathe a house with it or interior spaces!
If your house is located in close proximity to the highway, railway or a noisy enterprise (institution), then, of course, the best material in soundproofing is this lining!
The low thermal conductivity of this material will help keep your home warm in winter and cool in summer.

If you decide to choose the second type of lining, then you should know that it can be of several types! These species differ only in the place of production (Russia, Europe). Because of this, the price of this product also varies! The one made in Russia is much cheaper, has simple design, and the European one is complex in geometric design and made of more expensive materials, and therefore more expensive.

When choosing a lining, you must be extremely careful

Pay attention to humidity, if it is less than 8-15%, then this will lead to drying out of the material and significantly reduce the service life.
It is also worth looking at the number of different knots and notches, choose those boards that have much less of this flaw!
If you see small black or blue dots, then you should refuse such material, because it has undergone fungal infections!

When choosing, consider what kind of wood given material; undoubtedly, coniferous material will be the best!

Let's proceed to the stages of cladding work

vapor barrier
Attaching the frame for the vapor barrier
Installing a vapor barrier in this frame
Fixing the vapor barrier
Installing the second frame
Exterior lining

First stage

Vapor barrier can be several materials (roofing felt, polyethylene film, aluminum foil).

the main task this stage work to create ventilation of the facade of the house using a film. To do it correctly, you need to attach narrow (2.5 cm) slats to the house at a small distance from each other (usually they are attached at a distance of about a meter). With the help of a stapler, the vapor barrier layer itself is attached. And to ensure the ventilation itself, it is necessary to make small cuts (they are made below between the rivers)

Second phase

From small boards we make a frame for thermal insulation. The boards are attached to the wall vertically on their side, the distance between which we attach the boards should be slightly less than the insulation that you purchased.

Third stage

When installing thermal insulation, it must be taken into account that the layers of wool should not have any gaps between them, lay the sheets in two layers, and close the joints of the first layer with the second. The frame was made a little smaller because the thermal insulation itself will be located in the frame without special fasteners (on its own).

Third stage

We install waterproofing on top of the thermal insulation, in the form of a special film. It keeps moisture! This film, like thermal insulation, must be laid in two layers, also fix the joints with adhesive tape, and attach the first layer with a stapler. Please note that the film must be laid with the rough side to the lining.

Fourth stage

The next frame is attached to the boards of the lower frame, on top of all insulating coatings. Leave a small space between the new slats and the waterproofing layer to allow condensation to escape.

Nail a metal mesh to the bottom of the remaining space to protect against various pests.

Fifth stage

Now we cover with clapboard! It's worth starting from the bottom. The first board should be placed spike down. Be sure to check its horizontal level.

Fasten with nails.

The next board should be firmly installed with a blow into the groove of the previous one. We fix it. Let's continue to do the same!

When the entire lining is installed, you must nail the boards vertically at the corners of the house, overlapping one on top of the other. We also make platbands for doors and windows, and only after all the work is completed, start painting! You can use a special liquid (impregnation), it will protect the facing layer from external influences. But sand your home before painting.

As you can see, this type of work is not difficult at all and you do not have to put in a lot of effort!

The facade of a residential building must be finished with decorative building material in order to be not only practical, but also beautiful. Special requirements are imposed on the coating according to building codes and regulations. Clapboard for exterior decoration is a modern and inexpensive material, thanks to which you can realize many design projects with your own hands. It is increasingly preferred by owners of private country house where they live seasonally or permanently.

The appearance of a building trimmed on the outside with clapboard does not need to be monitored regularly. The lining is not exposed to the adverse effects of weather conditions and is resistant to severe frosts.

If you plan to sheathe housing with your own hands, then before purchasing, you need to familiarize yourself with technical specifications, indicated by the manufacturer, the type of raw material from which the wooden lining is made, as well as evaluate the appearance of the product. High-quality lining can be inexpensive, without visible external damage on the surface of the boards.

For finishing the house outside, noble woods such as ash, larch, oak are better suited. But the cost will be higher due to the excellent quality and durability of products.

Natural material for finishing a residential building outside is a guarantee of a good microclimate inside. At first glance, the trim panels attached to the outside are not related to the living space itself, but this is a misconception. A tree with an excess of moisture absorbs it, with a lack - gives it away. Approaching such a structure, you can feel the light aroma of oak or ash, which creates an aura of warmth and comfort.

It's nice to be in a house trimmed with clapboard

Among the main advantages of lining for finishing a wooden structure are:

safety;
high environmental performance;
heat and sound insulation;
good aesthetic data;
does not present difficulties in processing;
does not require regular care;
under the panels you can hide communications and wires.

You can sheathe a building with your own hands, you need to follow the technology (correctly and consistently lay each plank). It does not take much time and effort, after a week you can evaluate your efforts and start operating the house as before. A large number of tools are also not required - special nails and a hammer, as well as consumables (putties, glue, sandpaper).

Varieties of wood material

There are two broad categories wooden panels for outer cladding: lining and eurolining. The first option is produced by domestic manufacturers, manufactured in accordance with GOST 8242-88. The usual lining has an affordable price, but the range cannot be called wide. The standard dimensions of the board are 150x6000 mm and should not exceed these parameters. The thickness varies and is in the range of 12-25 mm.

Suitable ordinary or eurolining

A foreign analogue is considered a higher quality building product. The buyer can choose a board of various configurations to make an exterior finish. wooden house. The building stores will offer the following types:

standard,
landhouse,
block house,
American.

The most popular and beautiful version of eurolining is a block house. This type has an affordable cost and is considered universal, it is used for indoor and outdoor work done by oneself or by a team of professionals.

How to choose lining for outdoor work

If you need to pick a budget option for sheathing, lining made of fir, spruce or pine is suitable. It is of high quality, light weight and long term use. Parameters for evaluating lining:

the highest grade has no defects on the surface (knots or roughness, resin pockets, cracks);
it is worth paying attention to the traces of the vital activity of insects;
the color should be light;
absence of putrefactive areas.

All defects are carefully considered by the buyer on the spot, by their number per unit area it is possible to confirm the grade of the board. The more unsightly areas, the cheaper the lining will cost to finish the outside. If there are no defects on the wood at all, it is an extra-class building material that is in demand among consumers.

High-quality wall paneling for house cladding outside

You need to purchase products by conducting preliminary calculations. It is better if the amount of raw materials is 10% more. Usually in hardware store the buyer is given the opportunity to independently choose from a large package of boards containing the least number of flaws. If on the surface wooden product there are small black stains or large areas of a similar shade - most likely, she was in a humid room for a long time or was subjected to thermal effects. Failure to comply with the storage and drying technology adversely affects the operational properties of the product.

Wood processing before cladding

It is not worth starting covering the walls of the structure immediately after purchasing a sufficient amount of material. Be sure to impregnate the boards from the inside with a special antiseptic solution. This is a guarantee that after sheathing the house, wood-boring bugs will not start up under the decorative strips, mold and fungal deposits will not appear, because these factors significantly affect the durability of wood.

Bribes in this process and ease of installation. Mounting method - tongue-and-groove. It is advisable to build a crate from wooden beams- this will give you good result and perfectly smooth walls. Under the crate, if necessary, lay a heater.

Insulation and crate under the lining

The existing small holes from the knots can be repaired with your own hands, after the house is sheathed. For this purpose, a polymer type putty should be applied. After it hardens, it is necessary to carefully clean these places with medium grit sandpaper. If you take too rough material, distinct scratches will appear on the surface of the wood.

Upon completion of the stripping stage, it is necessary to apply impregnation of the desired shade to the outside of the lining. Lacquer will help to give a glossy shine (you can give preference to a colorless version; brown-golden warm colors are also in fashion). In addition to aesthetic data, coating with paint or varnish composition helps the material to be more resistant to adverse weather conditions and high humidity.

A house properly sheathed on the outside looks very attractive and has no flaws.

No. 1. What are the main advantages of wooden lining?

All the basic properties of the material depend on the nuances of its manufacture. Wooden lining is produced from solid wood at timber processing enterprises. Lining is a cut board 7-20 mm thick with planed surfaces. The width of such material is 90-150 mm, the length can vary widely. Once upon a time, railway cars were sheathed with thin long wooden planks with selected quarters, which is where the name came from.

The raw material for lining can be any kind of wood, and the main distinguishing property of the material is considered the presence of a groove and a ridge, through which the installation is carried out. All this allows us to talk about numerous advantages of lining:

excellent thermal and sound insulation properties;
small coefficient of thermal expansion;
due to the low weight, ease of transportation and installation is achieved, and there is also no need to strengthen the foundation;
due to the tongue-and-groove mounting method, it is possible to assemble the skin without slots;
the appearance of the wooden lining is chic, it allows you to bring comfort to the interior or highlight the building when facing the facade;
strength and durability;
environmental friendliness, because the tree undergoes a minimum of processing operations.

Among the cons can only be called a good ability to support combustion, but subject to the rules fire safety material and your health is not in danger. A wooden lining costs, of course, more expensive than its plastic counterpart, but it will also serve much longer, being resistant to physical stress.

No. 2. What is the difference between ordinary lining and eurolining?

On the construction market, you can find both ordinary wooden lining and material with the prefix "euro". The latter is significantly superior to conventional lining in a number of performance indicators. So, the main differences are as follows:

size. The Soviet-style lining is much thicker, and its thickness can reach up to 25 mm, the thickness of the euro lining is 13, 16 or 19 mm. The width of eurolining is maximum 120 mm, ordinary - up to 150 mm;
lock. The protrusion of the lock in eurolining is about 8-10 mm, which allows the elements to hold securely, even with strong changes in temperature and humidity. In an ordinary lining, the lock is often quite tiny, so the lamellas diverge during operation;
Availability ventilation holes on the back of the eurolining, which prevent the formation of cracks during temperature changes. There are no such grooves on ordinary lining;
humidity. Eurolining is forcibly dried to reach a moisture content of 10-15%, which ensures the absence of any deformations during transportation, installation and operation of the finished coating. The humidity of a conventional lining reaches 20-25%, which negatively affects both the process of working with it and its behavior during operation;
appearance. Since eurolining is manufactured in accordance with strict European standards and on European equipment, its front side is always smooth. If there are knots on it, they are carefully processed. Manufacturers usually have several types of profiles. Elements of the castle are exactly joined to each other. Ordinary lining rarely boasts such an ideal appearance and clarity of the interlock, often its surface is rough and fleecy;
eurolining is sorted into classes. Depending on the presence of defects on the wood itself and defects acquired during processing, as a rule, four classes are distinguished.

It is clear that when euro-class lining appeared on the market, many builders began to use it. Nevertheless, ordinary lining can also be used and is sometimes used for external cladding, and in cases where the quality of the finished surface and its appearance are not so important, and the task of saving comes to the fore.

No. 3. What size wagon do you need?

The first thing to be determined is lining length. You need to proceed from what surface you will sheathe, and strive to generate a minimum of waste. It is clear that shorter lamellas are suitable for a balcony, and lining with a sufficient length is needed for cladding the facade or walls in the room. It will not be difficult to select the necessary material, since the lining is sold in increments of 10 cm, ranging from 30 cm to 6 m. When making calculations, it is also worth considering that often even the highest quality material needs to trim the edges.

Width is chosen depending on the design idea, but it is worth considering the fact that a narrower lining will be more stable. The wider the material, the more prone to warping. IN Lately often used interesting way- a combination of lining of different widths, due to which an original effect is achieved.

As for lining thickness, then here, first of all, the conditions for the further operation of the material are taken into account. If the walls are sheathed indoors, then the lightest and thinnest lining with a thickness of 12.5 mm is quite suitable. Material up to 16 mm thick can also be used under these conditions. If we are talking about facade cladding, when the lining also presses a thick layer of insulation, then it is better to choose a thicker material - it will be more durable, reliable and durable. Suitable lining with a thickness of 18.5-22.5 mm.

When choosing, you may notice in the store the so-called wooden lining spliced along the length. Such material consists of several parts, which are carefully selected according to the pattern and color, but at the same time they can have different lengths. With micro-thorn connection, special adhesive composition and high pressure individual elements turned into a solid board. According to its main characteristics, such material does not differ from solid lining, and even surpasses it in some properties, because it turns out to be as stable as possible, and temperature and humidity have little effect on it. Technological features production does not allow making such lining with a thickness of less than 15 mm. In addition, some are afraid to use such material in saunas and baths, as they are afraid of the influence chemical substances glue, which, under the influence of high temperatures, may begin to stand out.

No. 4. Which wood is best?

In fact, any wood can be used to make the lining, but the properties of the lining will differ in many ways, as will its price. Cheaper lining is not always worse, since the choice of material should be based on the conditions of its operation. As for the color of wood, its choice is a purely subjective opinion.

All lining, which is present on the modern market, can be divided into two main types:

lining made of coniferous wood;
lining from hardwood wood.

Softwood It is distinguished by a high content of resins and essential oils, due to which it resists the formation of fungus and withstands high humidity. Such material has found a wide scope, excellent for external cladding, but completely unsuitable for saunas and baths. Under the influence of high temperatures, resin begins to stand out, and this process can continue for a long time. Not only does the material become sticky, it can also ignite spontaneously. However, spruce and pine wood in the Nordic countries is used for arranging saunas, but the material is deresined.

Most often, the following conifers are used for the manufacture of lining:

pine. It has a nice pattern, high strength, is inexpensive, but from time to time it needs to be varnished so that the material does not start to darken;
spruce. Wood has excellent thermal insulation properties and a pleasant shade;
larch. Very resistant to external influences, does not warp even with significant temperature fluctuations, is resistant to pests;
cedar. Expensive wood with excellent performance properties, color from yellowish to coffee.

hardwood less durable, but do not emit tar and heat up poorly, which allows them to be used in baths and saunas. They require regular processing, otherwise, under the influence of external factors, they will change their color and deteriorate. The most popular hardwoods:

oak. The most durable and strong, resistant to decay, dense, with a beautiful wood pattern, but such material also costs a lot;
Linden. Wood has excellent sound-proofing qualities and a delicate pleasant aroma; it is often used for finishing baths;
ash. Due to its high hardness, such wood does not crack at all. Color - dark yellow;
black alder has a pleasant light coffee color, resistant to moisture.

Separately, it is worth noting that only low-density wood is suitable for a bath, otherwise the material will get very hot, which can result in burns.

No. 5. Which lining profile is better?

Modern manufacturers produce lining with a different section profile. In addition, the size and shape of the lock, the nature of the front and back surfaces, and some other parameters may differ. All this affects not only external characteristics lining, but also on the scope of its application.

To date, the most popular lining with the following profiles:

traditional eurolining with angled edges. After assembly, it forms visible seams due to the enlarged tenon;
lining softline slightly rounded corners, recommended for use in saunas and baths;
calm. Such a lining forms a barely noticeable seam, since there are no recessed shelves near the spike. Corners can be either sharp or rounded. In the first case, it is possible to achieve the effect of a massive wall, so some manufacturers position such lining as an imitation of timber;
loungehouse. In such a lining, the front side does not have a smooth surface - multiple patterns are created on it due to curly milling. The pattern can be of varying degrees of complexity, and such lining becomes a real decoration of the interior. There is also a cheaper analogue - lining with a carving effect. Drawing on such material is applied due to hot stamping;
lining blockhouse and siding imitate log and siding, respectively;
double-sided lining- quite an interesting and not yet very common solution. The tongue and groove are exactly in the middle, and both sides receive the same treatment, so during installation, the specialist can choose which color and pattern is best. The only negative is the lack of ventilation holes, so this material is not very suitable for baths.

No. 6. What type of lining is better to choose?

To determine the type of lining, it is customary to use the European DIN type standard, but some manufacturers use different GOSTs and self-developed specifications, which is why it is so easy to make a mistake when buying and it is so important to look not only at the marking, but also at the quality of the material itself.

The type of lining is determined after manufacture, since materials of different grades are produced on the same equipment using the same technology. Later, the lining is sorted depending on the presence of knots, blue spots, cracks, non-prongs and resin pockets. As a rule, four classes of lining are distinguished:

extra or premium. This is an ideal lining without knots and cracks, and rough, blue or roughness is allowed only on the back;
class A. There may be knots no more than 1 cm in diameter (no more than one per linear meter), blind small cracks, which are often puttied by the manufacturer, and other minor defects can only be on the back;
class B. The diameter of the knots can reach a third of the width of the lamella, their number is not limited. There may also be open pockets, small through cracks;
class C. This, roughly speaking, is the rest of the lining, with a large number of defects, cracks, knots, with blue spots and rough edges on the front surface.

As for the scope of use, only class C lining is not allowed for finishing. The material of other classes has almost the same operational properties and the choice comes down to personal preference. Not everyone likes extra class lining, as it looks faceless and boring.

No. 7. Is it possible to distinguish low quality lining?

It is not always worth blindly trusting the class indicated on the packaging - it is better to examine the material with your own eyes. Pay attention, first of all, to the packaging. It is undesirable to use stretch film, since such storage negatively affects the moisture content of the lining. Of course, it is better to inspect the goods before buying, but if the material is packed in a film, then it will not be possible to examine it, and it is unlikely that they will be allowed to open the packaging. The only way out is to buy one or two packages and check the quality. If everything is fine with the lining, then the products already purchased will come in handy, and if not, then you will insure yourself against larger financial losses.

The geometry of the product should not be broken - the lining lamella should be even. Even a small arc indicates that the material was stored incorrectly, and if such a board can be mounted, it is unlikely that it will last a long time, and will most likely soon leave the castle. You also need to see the castle. It should not have knots and cracks, but it is better to take a kleimer with you and check the reliability of the future connection. At specialized points, there should be an instrument that measures the humidity of the lining, so you should not refuse the opportunity to check the real indicator. It should not exceed 15%.

No. 8. Which manufacturers can you trust?

Of course, the name and reputation of the manufacturer plays a significant role in the choice. Large companies will not risk their name and produce low-quality products. It is worth noting that today there are a lot of domestic companies on the market that produce lining of excellent quality. Imported products are present, but only in small quantities, so we will not divide manufacturers into foreign and domestic, but will give a general list of the best.

LUNAWOOD

A young Finnish company founded in 2002. Today it is the world leader in the production of thermal wood, developing its own innovative methods, constantly improving. Wood that has been processed high temperature and steam, loses nutrients, becomes resistant to all weather conditions, deformation and decay. The company mainly uses pine wood, and the products are widely represented on the domestic market.

"Astar"

Domestic company operating since 2004. For the production of various wood products, we use European equipment, which, together with the professionalism of our employees, allows us to produce products that meet European standards. The company's product range includes eurolining of different grades and with different parameters - from extra class to class C, with a length of 1.8 to 3.6 m.

"Karelia"

The company was founded in 2004, and at that time it carried out work on the construction of wooden objects. Since it was not so easy to find high-quality material on the market, it was decided to create our own production. Today it is equipped with the most modern equipment, high-quality raw materials are used here, and constant quality control is carried out. The lining is produced from different breeds, with different profiles and parameters, so finding the right material is not difficult.

"Vyatka pine"

Fully non-waste production founded in 1999. Equipped with Italian and German equipment, it has repeatedly received prestigious awards. Here the assortment is constantly increasing, and the production of lining occupies a key role. It is made from pine wood, and the manufacturer offers lining with different type profile and settings.

PromMax

One of the leaders among domestic lumber producers. Among the advantages of the company is a huge range, reasonable prices, modern equipment and the opportunity to personally inspect the products for their compliance with the declared class. The company offers eurolining from pine and spruce, as well as from aspen, which is perfect for arranging baths and saunas.

Clapboard appeared on the building materials market relatively recently, but has already managed to gain popularity. It provides a great appearance, is easy to install and highly durable.

Finishing the facade of the house with clapboard

Exterior decoration of the house

Today, clapboard facade cladding can be found on residential buildings, bathhouses, administrative buildings and shops. Such popularity is due to a number of advantages of this finishing material, including:

excellent thermal insulation properties;
protection from external factors (rain, wind, snow);
ease of installation;
soundproofing;
thermal insulation;
light weight;
variety of material and color palette;
increase the life of the building.

Types of lining for facade work

Facade panels are made of plastic, metal, fiber cement, wood.

Unambiguously define the best lining difficult. The choice always depends on the operating conditions and the purpose of the building. Before choosing a cladding, specialists must take into account the climatic features of the area, the type of structure and its operational properties.

In order to make a competent comparative characteristic of the lining, one should consider its features in terms of such parameters as cost, durability, service life and safety.

Sometimes the fundamental factor when choosing a wall paneling is the cost of building material. However, cheap does not mean good.

Popular wooden lining

Of course, wood has a higher price and the cost of such panels depends on the type of wood and class. Today on the market there is a wide choice of eurolining class "A" or "Extra". More durable wood, strict quality control and the difference between defects causes a fairly high price.

The most common is the lining of class "B" pine, which is great for sheathing country houses, terraces, and baths.

Lining classes

Plastic (vinyl) lining will cost an order of magnitude cheaper, but at the same time, it does not provide that natural appearance that many people like so much.

The service life depends on the features of operation. Atmospheric precipitation, temperature, air humidity and other criteria have a direct impact. Therefore, when choosing the type of distillation, all these factors should be taken into account.

Plastic lining is not at all afraid of moisture, but at the same time it does not have sufficient resistance to temperature changes. Vinyl tolerates exposure to UV radiation, but does not tolerate mechanical impact from the outside. Any small impact is enough and the integrity of the panels can be broken.

Vinyl siding

The popularity of vinyl panels determines the diversity color solutions, allowing you to select the appropriate range for the style and exterior of the building. The scope of vinyl products is very wide, they are widely used in facing balconies, loggias, arbors. But low frost resistance makes this material undesirable when facing houses in climatic zones with strong temperature fluctuations.

Vinyl siding example

The tree is characterized by increased strength to mechanical damage, is not afraid of sudden changes in temperature, but does not like moisture. Specialists treat wooden lining with special protective compounds to improve its performance. Wood creates an atmosphere of warmth and comfort that no other material can convey.

If we talk about safety, then vinyl lining is not subjected to fire-resistant impregnation. When burning, vinyl melts, evaporating harmful substances.

Wood trim is an excellent solution for a bath, terrace or private house. To increase the fire resistance, the boards are pre-treated with a special impregnation. The unique structure of the tree, its healing properties and environmental friendliness determines the wide demand for this material.

With improper care, the tree quickly loses its properties. It can crack and deform. For this purpose, before installing this material, experts carry out a thorough treatment with special antiseptic and hydrophobic mixtures. This prevents the appearance of mold, fungus and protects the wood from moisture penetration. As for the care, the wood is hard to wash and clean. Over time, it can change the shade and lose its original freshness.

Comparison of plastic and wood siding

Plastic, on the other hand, is easy to care for. It is enough to wipe with a damp cloth or apply cleaning agents and the vinyl looks like when it was originally clad. Despite the high resistance to FU rays, the plastic may lose color brightness over time, which does not affect its operational properties.

Vinyl clapboard is often called laminated type panels, which perfectly imitate the structure of wood, fake diamond or metal, which allows you to embody any design idea.

Vinyl siding under the ship board

brick siding

Thus, the following advantages can be distinguished from plastic lining:

low weight;
resistance to ultraviolet radiation;
manifold colors;
long service life;
ease of care;
ease of installation.

Peculiarities

Wooden lining- these are panels of certain dimensions with a tenon-groove fastening. For production coniferous and deciduous breeds of wood are used. The most popular material for the production of wooden lining is pine, spruce, ash, alder and linden. You can rarely find oak lining, which is explained by its high price.

Larch lining

Standard board sizes:

board thickness can vary from 12 to 25 mm;
width - up to 150 mm;
length - up to 6000 mm.

Siding dimensions

Eurolining, which is one of the varieties of wooden lining, is characterized by higher strength and best quality execution. It belongs to class A, the quality standard regulates the presence of no more than one knot for every one and a half meters of the board. Higher requirements are imposed on its production, respectively, and the price of such material is much higher. Eurolining "Extra" class eliminates any knots and cracks and is one of the most expensive materials.

Standards for wood defects and processing defects for front side products

Eurolining sizes have more stringent standards:

there are four types of width 80, 100, 110 or 120 mm;
board length varies from 500 to 6000 mm;
thickness can be 13, 16 or 19 mm.

Styling stage wooden planks preceded by a special treatment with an antiseptic to prevent the occurrence of mold and fungus. Antiseptic treatment significantly increases the service life facing material and increases its strength and wear resistance.

Antiseptic for lining

Colorless antiseptic for lining

What should be considered when choosing a wooden lining?

When choosing wooden boards as a building cladding, you need to pay attention to the following criteria:

type of wood (pine, spruce, larch);
wood class (extra, A, B, C);
wood drying method. The strength of the material and its service life depend on this. For high-quality drying of lining, special drying chambers are needed. This, of course, increases the cost of the product, but such material will also serve much longer.

Metal lining often referred to as metal siding. This material has a smooth surface that does not require additional processing and painting.

metal siding

Metal lining has a high service life (about 50 years), withstands strong temperature changes, does not corrode. But this material also has disadvantages. Metal lining is not flexible. The variety of colors, imitation of wood or stone makes this type of wall paneling a fairly versatile and popular building material.

Siding "L-Beam" (metal, coating "Ecosteel")

Types of laying

There are two ways to fasten the lining: vertical and horizontal. Before choosing a method, you should consider that vertical cladding will visually increase the height of the building exterior.

Vertical board on the facade frame house

Vertical siding

Horizontal, on the contrary, will visually increase the facade in breadth. Before buying material, calculate how many boards you will need for one and the other method. Consider the width and length of the bars to minimize waste.

Facing the facade with clapboard horizontally

Choosing a mounting method: disadvantages and advantages

There are several types of fastening the lining to the facade of the house. Each of them has its pros and cons, and the choice of method should be dictated not only by the lining material, but also by operational features.

Kleimers are a universal way of fastening a facade board, which is characterized by high speed and simplicity. If demolition is planned in the future facade decoration, then it is better to use this method.
Kleimers for lining
Screws.
Nails.
You can use a construction stapler as a fastener, but it does not provide such reliability and fixation.

A set of tools you may need:

electric drill;
screwdriver;
hacksaw for wood or electric jigsaw;
roulette;
construction stapler;
hammer;
rule;
level (water or alcohol).

Tools for mounting wooden lining

In addition to high-quality and reliable tools, you will need the following consumables:

dowels 6x80 mm;
kleimers;
stapler staples;
nails 20 mm;
finishing nails 50 mm;
Finishing nails
lining itself;
plinth skirt;
metal shimmer

Outflows for the basement of the foundation
decorative corners (external, internal or universal);
timber for the construction of the crate (50x50 mm). It must be thoroughly dried;
Beam for crates
self-tapping screws.

What work to do first?

Before construction works you need to carefully treat each board and timber with an antiseptic.

Lining processing

Please note that many antiseptics contain a coloring pigment that will affect the decorative function of the lining. If you want to preserve the natural color of the wood, it is recommended to process only the inside of the material, and varnish the outside after laying. If the facade is being prepared for painting, it does not matter and both sides can be treated with an antiseptic.

Let the lining dry well so as not to impair its technical characteristics.

Cladding the facade with wooden clapboard: step by step instructions

The process of lining a building with clapboard is quite simple. Even without experience, but at the same time clearly following the instructions, you will be able to do the finishing work yourself.

Products in the package: lining

Before you start finishing work, you need to take care of the thermal insulation of the house. We choose the material for insulation. There are several types of insulation for external cladding on the market today: mineral wool, glass wool, polystyrene foam, cellulose insulation.

Heaters

In order to finish the house with clapboard and at the same time carry out thermal insulation work, it is necessary to mount the crate of the building. This will create the necessary air space between which you can lay an additional layer of insulation. All electric wires and ventilation ducts are also hidden under the crate. In addition, the crate provides proper ventilation, which significantly increases the service life of the facade finish. If the wall surface is perfectly flat and no additional insulation of the house is required, then the finishing strips can be nailed directly to concrete wall dowel-nails.

Preparing walls for framing

Step 1. It is necessary to thoroughly clean the wall surface from any dirt and peeling fragments of paint, plaster. This can be done with a spatula.

Cleaning the old facade

Step 2 We remove all protruding structures and parts from the facade (door trims, window frames, visors, etc.). Those parts that cannot be dismantled must be cut with a grinder with a diamond wheel.

Step 3 We close up all cracks, large holes cement mortar or putty on wood and let dry well for a day.

Video - Repair cracks on the wall of the house

Step 4 After complete drying, it is necessary to carefully treat the facade with an antiseptic substance and prime it well. This will prevent the spread of mold, fungus on the walls. Antiseptic also serves as an excellent protection against termites and other harmful insects.

Priming and antiseptic walls

Installation of a two-layer crate

For the installation of the crate, it is necessary to choose dry weather, and the timber that will be used for construction must be dried and treated with an antiseptic. Drying of the material must be carried out for at least two weeks, since the maximum allowable moisture content of the timber can be 15%.

Treatment of timber with an antiseptic by full immersion for 1 minute

For the crate of the house, a wooden or metal profile is suitable, but it is better to tie the choice of material to the lining itself. If you plan to clad the facade with wood, then it is better to take wooden beams as the material for the crate. This will simplify the wiring diagram. If the crate is planned for metal siding, then you can choose a galvanized profile 28x27 mm.

Profile galvanized PPN 28x27 mm

Sometimes builders create a combined version of the crate. A wooden crate is created around the perimeter of the entire house, and a metal profile frame is built for the basement floor in order to protect the structure from moisture as much as possible, because it will be elevated near the ground.

Since we are considering a scheme for fastening a wooden lining, we will also use wood as a material for the construction of the crate.

Scheme of the device of a wooden crate for siding

Step 1. Horizontally mount a wooden beam

If the crate is created on a wooden house, then it is necessary to create a sliding structure (we use corners with vertical holes).

Fastening the beam to the facade

The distance between the bars should be 40 cm. If you decide to lay mineral wool slabs for insulation, then focus on the width of the slab, reducing or increasing the fastening step. We fix the crate on U-shaped suspensions in order to achieve the most even surface.

Lathing installation. Bar attachment option

Horizontally fixed bars

Step 2. We carry out work on thermal insulation

We take a heater and lay it between the wall of the house and the created wooden structure.

Insulation laying

Step 3. Create a wind and hydro barrier

For this, we take a special protective film and fix construction stapler over the grid. We apply the film with an overlap of 10-15 cm in order to avoid violation of thermal and waterproofing.

Vapor barrier installation

Step 4. We mount the counter-lattice

This is necessary to ensure proper ventilation. Now we mount the counter-lattice vertically, with a step of 40 cm. We fasten a wooden lath 50x10 mm to the existing crate with nails. All this is done in the vertical direction, since the cladding is supposed to be horizontal.

The crate is set according to the markings, which are stretched threads

The crate is fixed over the vapor barrier

Construction of a single-layer crate

If the insulation of the house is not expected, then you can limit yourself to installing a single-layer crate.

Stages of installation of the crate

Step 1. We check the level of wooden bars and build a vertical structure from them. To do this, we fasten the bars with U-shaped suspensions at the corners of the house with a distance between the fasteners of 50 cm. We check their verticality with a level.

Now we take 3 cords (the length is equal to the length of the wall) and connect these bars with three laces (top, middle and bottom). This will further facilitate the removal of a flat plane. You can use a rule for this purpose. This tool facilitates the alignment of the cords exactly on the plane.

Step 2 After the laces are pulled, we begin to build the rest of the crate in a vertical position in increments of 40-50 cm. The laces in this case will be beacons for setting the plane. Reiki should not protrude beyond the lace and change its tension.

Step 3 After the whole structure is built and checked by the level, we remove the laces and proceed directly to the lining of the facade with clapboard.

Sheathing for siding

Pictured is a siding sheathing. Wooden linings were used to level the timber

The bars are fixed with hangers

Horizontal installation of wooden lining

This type of fastening involves movement from top to bottom. This will protect the sheathing material from moisture and dirt. We use clamps (metal staples) for fastening to ensure the reliability of the cladding and aesthetic appearance. In addition, it greatly simplifies and speeds up the process of finishing work.

Scheme of installation of wooden siding, insulated facade

Step 1. We take the first rail of the lining and nail it to the upper beam of the crate under the roof. To avoid cracking the board, drive the nail at a 45 degree angle. You can pre-wet the nail to reduce the chance of damaging the board. For installation, it is better to use finishing nails 50 mm long.

Step 2 Now we insert the clamp into the bottom groove of the first board and nail it with 20 mm nails. This is done so that the top board does not start to “play” during subsequent installation.

Installation of lining from top to bottom

Step 3 We take the next board of the lining, insert it into the groove of the first board and fix it from below again with a kleimer along the bars of the crate. The kleimer must be fastened with 20 mm nails using a hammer, but in order to facilitate the process and protect your hands, use a "spacer". To do this, take a 100 mm nail, turn it upside down and put a 20 mm nail into the head with a hat.

Step 4 The last board is cut to size and inserted into the groove of the previous board. But there is a small nuance here. If you cut the board exactly to the size of the remaining gap, then we will not be able to get it into the groove of the previous lining. Therefore, it must be cut 1.5 cm shorter. This will allow you to easily insert it into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees, press it against the crate and press it with the mount from the bottom up until it is completely fixed.

Step 5 Now we nail the 50 mm panel with a nail (as in the case of the first board) to the crate at the bottom of the last board.

Nails for mounting wooden lining

Step 6 The final touch is the installation of a plinth skirt, which will close the junction gap. We fasten the base skirt with 50 mm nails or galvanized screws with a press washer 30 mm long.

Step 7 We close the corner outer joints with decorative corners using 50 mm nails. To hide the presence of fasteners as much as possible, you can use a little trick. To do this, we do not hammer the nail to the end, bite off the hat with wire cutters and drive it in with a cloth flush with the corner. The fastener pitch must be at least 50 cm on both sides of the corner.

Scheme of installation of wooden siding

Finishing the facade with wooden clapboard, horizontal method

We produce vertical cladding: step by step instructions

The main difference between this laying is that the crate is carried out in a horizontal position, and the lining will be sewn vertically.

Important! When choosing the material and type of installation, consider the size of the wall. With vertical cladding, it is necessary to take into account the length of the lining so that there is no horizontal seam around the entire perimeter of the building. It is necessary to clad the walls with a checkerboard offset, or install a panel strip.

The first lining board is laid from the corner. On the back side of the groove it is necessary to fix the clamps. We fix the first one on both sides (the front part is 50 mm nails, and the back part is a kleimer).
Checking the evenness of the frame and installation of siding panels
Next, the next plank is put on the spike with a groove, as in the case of horizontal cladding. To prevent the lining from falling during installation, fix it with an additional 50 mm nails in the upper and lower parts. Before taking each next lining, it must be carefully checked by the level, otherwise it can “play”, creating unnecessary gaps.
Installation of panels with clamps
After we have installed the entire lining, we proceed to decorating. To do this, take a corner and fasten it with 50 mm nails to the outer corners of the house. In order to hide the attachment points, remove the nail heads with wire cutters. To do this, the nail does not clog completely, the cap is cut off and reaches the plane.

Lining, mounting options

Vertical cladding with plastic clapboard: step by step instructions

You will need the following materials:

dowels 6x80 mm;
stapler staples;
plastic lining;
plinth skirt;
decorative plastic corners (external, internal or universal);
bars for the construction of the crate (50x50 mm);
self-tapping screws;
glue for plastic;
U-shaped hangers.

Step 1. We mount the crate of the building. If insulation is planned, we make a double crate (see above). If the house does not need an additional heat-insulating layer, we limit ourselves to a single-layer crate.

Lathing, photo

Step 2 We take a plastic lining and fasten the outer part with self-tapping screws to the crate. Do not forget that the laying of plastic panels is carried out strictly perpendicular to the crate. We cut the plastic panel according to the necessary measurements with a hacksaw.

Start profile

Fixing the first panel

The panel rests against the starting profile

Step 3 Inner part we fix the lining with a construction stapler to the beams of the frame. Always check whether the entire surface of the panel has entered the lock to prevent further deformation of the wall and loss of integrity.

Installing the second panel

Screw driving

Step 4 We insert the next board into the fasteners and fix it with a stapler to the crate in increments of 40 cm.

Step 5 The finishing panel is fixed with a screw with a press washer. After that, apply a decorative corner and fix it with glue.

finish plank

penetration mounting holes in the last panel

Clipping the last panel

vertical siding

Facade finishing example

At the end of the article, we suggest that you carefully read the video instructions on how to properly install the lining to the facade of the building.

Video - Sheathing a frame house with clapboard, using the example of one wall

Video - Installation of overlapping siding on a wooden frame

In the photo - the beginning of work on sheathing the house with wooden panels

This article will tell you not only how to sheathe a house with clapboard from the outside, but also help you choose the right material.

Types of panels by raw material

In total, there are two main types of lining, depending on the feedstock - wooden and PVC. It is possible to talk about which option should be preferred, and how plastic differs from wood, only by studying their features.

You can sheathe the house with plastic panels

Features of plastic outer lining:

long service life (no decay process);
no need for care;
external plastic lining is not affected by the environment.

Features of wooden lining:

elegant design;
high levels of sound insulation;
thermal conductivity is low.

Clapboard made of wood

Lining made of wood, also known as lining for exterior decoration, can be divided into a simple version and eurolining. The separation takes place taking into account the use of estimated data for comparison with generally accepted standards.

The manufacturer is obliged to indicate the conformity of products with regulatory documents

The basics of choosing eurolining

Before you start choosing a material for sheathing, you should study a few rules:

To avoid further deformation of the material, which occurs as a result of shrinkage and leads to the formation of cracks, you should choose the type of lining, the humidity of which will lie in the range from 10 to 15%;

Checking humidity with a moisture meter

Tip: Ask the seller to confirm the declared humidity - if he refuses, there is reason to think about the advisability of buying.

Be sure to inspect the material for wormholes and foreign spots;
The number of knots in the selected material should be minimal.

Note! Sheathing the house with clapboard on the outside should be made from a material created from coniferous species, since hardwoods (not counting aspen) are not suitable for external sheathing.

Conifers are preferred

Installation stages

Vapor barrier fasteners;
Installation of the frame itself;
Installation of thermal insulation;
Carrying out waterproofing;
The construction of the frame of the second;
Exterior lining .

Vapor barrier fastener

Initially, you should choose a material that will act as a vapor barrier, usually roofing material, aluminum foil, or even ordinary plastic wrap is used for this purpose.

Upholstery with vapor barrier film

A prerequisite is the presence of ventilation of the facade of the house, for which the vapor barrier layer is nailed directly to the rails nailed to the wall. Reiki should be fixed at a distance of one meter, and their width should be approximately 2.5 centimeters. For additional ventilation, holes (20 mm) are made at the bottom and top between the slats.

Frame installation

The frame can be made with your own hands from boards, fixing them to the wall of the building in a vertical position. The thickness of the boards should be in the range of 40-50 mm, and the width should be about 10 centimeters.

The distance between the boards must be left less than the width of the insulation sheets by 1-2 centimeters.

Installation of thermal insulation

Thermal insulation placement is a further stage, which requires finishing the house with clapboard from the outside.

It happens through the following steps:

The installation of mineral wool layers occurs without gaps between them;
To achieve this, it is necessary to lay two layers of mineral wool at the same time, 50 mm thick;
The main feature of the masonry is that the joint of the lower plates is covered by the middle of the upper layer, while, due to the natural elasticity, no additional fasteners are required, which can be seen from the photo.

Installation of waterproofing

In the photo - the use of waterproofing materials

In order to prevent moisture from penetrating the house, a waterproofing film should be installed, which is mounted on top of the thermal insulation layer;
Film fastening is carried out by means of construction staples to boards;
Leaving an overlap of about 5-10 cm, you should glue it with adhesive tape, which will allow you to get the best effect.

Attention! To obtain the ideal ratio, the hydrofilm should be laid with the smooth side towards the insulation.

Installing the frame under the finishing sheathing

According to the steps that the instruction above says, then you should start installing the second frame.

Laths should be nailed onto the boards of the first frame on top of the hydrofilm. Their thickness should be 2-3 cm, width 0.5 mm. This enables additional ventilation and removal of condensate on the hydrofilm;

Frame from a bar under the panels

To prevent rodents and insects from entering the space below, it should be clogged with a metal mesh.

Finishing the outer layer by lining

The final stage is the outer cladding of the walls with clapboard:

The process begins with the preparation of boards desired length, you should start from the bottom, while the starting board has grooves up, a prerequisite is the use of a level to ensure its even position;
After making sure that the board is fixed, you should attach it with nails (clamps). The workpiece must be leveled before fastening;

Installation on clamps - clamps

Next, the second sheet of lining is installed according to the standard groove-thorn system. In order for the spike of the upper board to fit snugly into the groove of the bottom, a wooden hammer should be used;
Having fixed the second board, you should insert the rest.

Some installation secrets are shown in the photo

After the lining from the outside has undergone complete installation, they proceed to the vertical fixation of the boards at the corners of the boards. Here, the obligatory moment is the presence of an overlap when one comes to the other.

Window casings are formed along a similar path, the pediment is most often sheathed by horizontally fixing the boards. Only after the completion of the entire plating process should you start painting.

An analogue of simple painting can be a coating with a special liquid, which acts as an impregnation for lining outside. It allows not only to protect the tree from any external influences, including insects, but also preserves the natural color of the wood. See also what characteristics a painted lining has.

When starting a simple painting, you should observe some nuances:

The entire surface is pre-treated with a grinding machine. It requires the presence of fixed sandpaper (grain 40-25-80 or 120);
In the case of using oil paint, it is necessary to apply drying oil in two layers, and apply the paint only after it has completely dried.

Results

Despite the fact that everyone can take advantage of the opportunity to sheathe a house with clapboard from the outside, this process requires certain physical and time costs. A great analogue of a wooden finish will be a plastic outer lining.

On our site you can find a large number of videos that allow you to take out some valuable tips and step-by-step instructions.

Sheathing the house with clapboard outside is the most popular type of its decoration. This is due to the availability and simplicity of methods that allow you to give any design an absolutely finished look.

It is the protection of a wooden house from external factors that increases the life of any building for many years. The article will tell you how to properly sheathe a house with clapboard from the outside.

Types and features of lining

Before you sheathe the house outside with clapboard, you need to familiarize yourself with its types. For finishing the house, materials made of plastic and wood are used.

Advantages of wooden lining:

Lovely appearance, which allows you to create interior decoration, and beautifully sheathe the outside.
High degree of sound insulation.
Just the installation is done.
natural material, which is ideal for a country house.
Low thermal conductivity.

Clapboard for exterior cladding of the house is most often used plastic or vinyl.

Advantages of plastic material:

Durability. Correct installation protects the wooden structure from the process of decay.
Resistance to influence of different temperature.
Does not support combustion.
Weather resistant. Not subject to corrosion.
Simple and fast installation, this allows you to complete the construction in a short time, without involving specialists.
Ease of home care. The material does not require special processing, which is used for wood panels.
Presentable appearance that creates a glossy Smooth surface. The building looks especially beautiful with the right color.
Water repellency. Under the influence of precipitation in the form of rain or snow, plastic does not deteriorate.
Affordable price.

The disadvantages of plastic include:

Very low resistance even to small mechanical stress and pressure, from impacts, dents can remain on the material.
On surfaces lined with plastic panels, decorative elements will not be able to be fixed qualitatively.

When choosing options for external finishing with clapboard, it is necessary to determine its type, depending on the shape of the material profile.

The lining can be:

A panel that has a simple shape, imitating a wooden beam.
Calm, has a fairly smooth surface, on which, after installation, grooves are practically not visible.
Eurolining, which has a tongue-and-groove connection and an enlarged spike, which increases its drainage and ventilation properties.
"American", the presence of a notch on the inside, allows you to simulate the laying of boards with an overlap.
Block house. These are panels that have a convex surface on the outside, in appearance resemble a log building.

The photo shows some types of panels.

Tip: When choosing a material for the exterior cladding of a house, you need to pay attention to the use of lining specifically for external works. It is possible to distinguish them from the panels used indoors only by their qualitative characteristics, it is difficult to distinguish them in appearance.

How to make a crate for lining

Finishing the clapboard of the house outside begins with the installation of a crate for it. This design is a frame for attaching panels.

Facade PVC lining can be mounted on a crate made of wooden beams about 60 millimeters wide and about 27 millimeters thick. For the same purposes, a metal profile is also used.

By type of crate can be:

vertical.
Horizontal.
With counter-lattice device. This design is for:

ensuring good ventilation of the space under the skin;
placement of a layer of thermal insulation. It is used only when installing a wooden crate.

Tip: When choosing the right option, you should be guided by the location of the panels of the finishing material. When placing material elements horizontally, the crate is performed vertically and vice versa.

To fix the metal profile, tools are needed:

Scissors for cutting metal.
Screwdriver.
Building level.
Plumb.
Construction corner.
Roulette.
Electric impact drill.

The work instructions are as follows:

UD support profiles are installed.
The elements are fixed on the extreme sides, which are located perpendicular to the details of the crate.
Intermediate components of the structure are inserted and fixed.
Along the edges of door and window openings, parallel to them and along the perimeter of all protruding elements that are not to be sheathed, additional parts are installed.
The location of the fixing dowels must be provided in increments of 15 to 25 centimeters, which will ensure the reliability of fastening metal profiles to the base.

Tip: For an uneven wall, use substrates for fasteners. In this case, it is necessary to accurately determine their height. Otherwise, when attaching the profile, it will bend, and it will be impossible to align the part.

The main profiles of the crate are inserted into the guides with the ends and fixed at the edges with screws. It is best if these are special screws with a tip like a drill.
Additionally, you can use mounting hangers, which will give the profile, and as a result of the entire structure, greater rigidity.
The edges of the hangers are bent at an angle of 90 degrees and fastened at the profile installation points.
The profile itself is installed and fixed to the guides.
The bent wings of the suspensions are screwed.
The excess part of them, protruding above the profile, is cut off.

How to make a wooden crate for lining

For work you will need the following tools:

Hacksaw.
Electric jigsaw.
Electric drill.
Screwdriver.
Screwdrivers.
Chisel.
Hammer.
Building level.
Roulette.
Construction plumb lines.
Building corner.

Construction materials:

Beam, for the device of the crate.
Board for substrates.
Boards for the construction of the frame.
To fix the beam to the wall - screws and dowels.

Finishing the outside of the house with clapboard begins with marking the places for installing the extreme details of the frame.

Tip: During installation, you should carefully control the location of the bars or boards around the perimeter, the quality of the entire frame depends on this.

Substrates are used to level the surface or some parts are processed to form a single plane in one level. For example, the bars can be undermined or combed the base of the building. The choice of option is influenced by the type and size of the irregularities. If they are all over the wall, it is better to take substrates. To determine the distance of the beams from the wall, the highest point located on the surface is determined, and from it the position of the parts in the frame begins with a margin of up to three millimeters, which are necessary to level the unevenness of the beams themselves used in the crate.
With screws in increments of approximately 25 centimeters, the bars are fixed around the entire perimeter of the crate.
Door and window openings and protruding parts of the walls along the perimeter are upholstered with the same elements, which makes it possible to securely fix the edges of the cladding parts.
Mounted intermediate bars. At the same time, they should not be rigidly attached to the frame elements, especially if the wood is poorly dried. Rigid fixation of parts during thermal deformation or changes in humidity can cause a change in their position in the skin. It may break general form and reduce the rigidity of the entire structure.
When using substrates, the edges of the beam are attached, and the correctness of its position is controlled by the level and plumb lines.

Tip: All wood used in the manufacture of crates should be treated with protective compounds with fire retardants and antiseptics, which will prevent the appearance of rot, fungi, protect against excessive moisture, and reduce the possibility of fire.

What are the advantages of ventilated facades

Ventilated PVC cladding has several important advantages.

These include:

Heat saving. When installing thermal insulation on external walls, the heat storage capacity increases significantly. Ventilated facade lining on a building is an opportunity to create an energy-saving surface on it. In terms of energy consumption, residential buildings with such systems installed on them are approximately 30% more economical than those without such systems.
Long service life. Without repair, a ventilated facade can last up to 50 years, depending on the materials used. With a specially designed scheme for fastening the structure, thermal deformations are absorbed, which can appear during daily and seasonal fluctuations in atmospheric temperatures. This leads to internal stresses in the cladding material and in load-bearing elements, which can provoke the appearance of cracks and even the destruction of the cladding.
Facades can be sheathed all year round. In this case, there is no need to use solutions and adhesives. External factors do not have any influence on the timing of the production of works.
This design well protects the building from dampness and harmful atmospheric aggression. The presence of an air gap is a fundamental difference from other types of building cladding. With the help of a ventilated facade, any moisture is removed, and in the presence of a pronounced aggressive environment, the hinged structure helps to create reliable protection that will counteract the negative factors that destroy the elements of the supporting structures of the building.
A wide variety of architectural forms and solutions of such facades.
They allow you to create a comfortable microclimate in the building with your own hands. The device of thermal insulation and the presence of an air ventilated gap contributes to an increase in the preservation of heat from the outer walls. In summer, the ventilated façade acts as a sun shield, most It reflects the heat that enters the house, which reduces the load on air conditioners. In the cold season, heat is retained inside, reducing the load on the heating system.
The surface is leveled outer wall. Panels can be installed on the wall from:

concrete;
brick (see);
tree;
metal structures.

The surface does not need to be leveled. When installing a hinged ventilated facade system, brackets are used, which can vary in length.

Fireproof. Materials for the manufacture of ventilated facades do not burn or burn weakly, have a low ability to form smoke, and the toxicity of combustion products is low-hazard.
Environmentally friendly. There are no additives and components harmful to health.
Easy to dismantle. Design hinged facades facilitates the dismantling of a certain part of the facade elements. By replacing the damaged element of the cladding, the consequences of an accident or other damage are easily eliminated.
Increased sound and noise insulation.

What are the ways of mounting lining

Finishing the house with clapboard outside is performed different ways panel fixings.

For this are used:

Kleimers. They are clamps having the form of a tongue-and-groove connection. In this case, the panel is securely pressed against the wall, the next part closes the groove of the previous one, which makes the fastener completely invisible. The clamps themselves are fixed special self-tapping screws or nails, but are used for mounting lining made of wood or MDF.
Ordinary nails.
Decorative screws.
Staples, as for furniture upholstery. Are applied at installation of plastic lining. They are fastened with a special gun, the wall is sheathed very quickly.

In detail, how the lining of the house is done from the outside, considers the video in this article. After high-quality sheathing of the house with clapboard, it acquires a noble and attractive appearance, and additional protection from adverse external factors.

If you decide to improve the appearance of your home, then clapboard cladding outside the house is a good choice. Such exterior finish will not only make the walls of the house more beautiful, but also improve their heat and sound insulation properties.

You will learn how to choose the material and how to sheathe the house with clapboard from the outside in this article.

Types of lining

It is divided into 2 main types: plastic and wooden. Each has its own characteristics.

Speaking about the plastic outer lining, it is necessary to highlight the following features:

durability(not subject to decay);
unpretentiousness(does not require complex care);
excellent water repellency(outer plastic lining is not exposed to a humid environment).

The classic wooden lining has its own distinctive features:

presentable appearance;
soundproof properties;
low thermal conductivity.

Wooden lining for exterior decoration is also divided into ordinary and. This is due to different standards in the production of these boards.

In our country, they are produced according to GOST 8242-88, abroad according to DIN 68126. Imported timber differs from Russian timber in its grade and external parameters. As well as more thoughtful geometry, higher quality workmanship. Because of this, its price is much higher.

How to choose lining

When choosing this building material, you must adhere to the following simple rules:

The moisture content of wood should not be more than 10-15%, otherwise, over time, it will dry out, which will lead to an increase in the gaps between the boards.
It is necessary to choose boards without fungal infections, without wormholes.
Give preference to material the minimum amount knots.

Advice!
Use wood from coniferous trees. Hardwood material (except aspen) is not suitable for lining the house with clapboard from the outside.

Stages of work

Installation of vapor barrier;
Frame installation;
Placement of thermal insulation;
Fixing waterproofing;
Installation of the second frame;
outdoor.

Vapor barrier installation

As a vapor barrier, polyethylene film, aluminum foil or even roofing material can be used. Its task is to ventilate the facade of the house under the film. To do this, wooden narrow slats 2.5 cm wide are vertically attached to the wall at a distance of one meter from one another.

A vapor barrier layer is nailed to the fixed rails. Then, at the top, as well as at the bottom between the rails, holes with a cross section of 20 mm must be made to ensure ventilation.

Frame installation

Further, with our own hands, from boards with a thickness of 40 mm to 50 mm and a width of 10 cm, we make a frame. To do this, we attach them to the wall of the house vertically on their side. We set the distance between the boards 1-2 cm less than the width of our insulation (mineral wool sheets).

Placement of thermal insulation

The next step, which requires finishing the house with clapboard outside, is the placement of thermal insulation.

Mineral wool slabs must be installed so that they do not have gaps between them.
To do this, lay 2 layers of mineral wool with a thickness of 50 mm each.
We lay the plates so that the joint of the two plates of the lower layer is closed by the middle of the plate of the upper layer. Because the slabs are quite resilient, they will be held between the boards without additional fastening (see photo).

Fixing waterproofing

A waterproofing film must be fixed on top of the thermal insulation layer. It lets steam through but retains water.
Having laid the film, we fasten it with staples to the frame boards.
To achieve the best effect, it is necessary to leave an overlap of about 5-10 cm and glue it with adhesive tape.

Advice!
To achieve the desired effect, the waterproofing film must be laid with the rough side towards the lining, and the smooth side towards the insulation.

Installing the second frame

The next stage of work, as our instructions say, is the installation of the second frame.

To do this, on the boards that form the first frame, on top of the waterproofing layer, we nail slats with a thickness of about 2-3 cm and a width of 0.5 mm. This is necessary for ventilation and removal of moisture that forms in the form of condensate on the waterproofing film.
The space formed below must be closed with a metal mesh to prevent the penetration of rodents and insects.

Lining outside

So, the final stage remains - the outer cladding of the walls with clapboard.

To do this, we cut the boards to the desired length and start the sheathing from the bottom. We have the first (starting board) spike down, and the groove up. We check its horizontalness with the help of a level.
If everything is normal there, we fix it with nails or special clamps. If deviations from the horizontal axis are observed, then we first align our workpiece, and then we fix it.
We insert the next board from above into the groove of the previous one. We strike from above with a mallet (wooden hammer). This is necessary so that the spike of the upper board fits snugly into the groove of the bottom.
After that we fix it. Similarly, we insert all the other boards.

When the lining is mounted outside, it is necessary to fix the boards in the corners of the house. We fix them vertically, and one should find on the other, forming an overlap.

Similarly, it is necessary to make platbands for windows. The pediment can be sheathed horizontally, fixing the boards in the same way. After the main part of the work is completed, it is necessary to start painting.

The surface of the boards can be painted or coated with a special liquid. Special impregnation for lining on the outside will preserve the natural color of the tree, while protecting it from negative external influences.

If, however, you still decide to paint, we recommend that you adhere to the following tips:

Before painting, process the entire surface to be painted with a grinder, with sandpaper fixed in it (grain 40, 25, 80, 120).
If you plan to paint, then first apply 2 layers of drying oil. After it is completely dry, proceed to painting.

As you can see, sheathing a house with clapboard from the outside is not so difficult, although this process requires a lot of time and effort. If you are interested in this type of finish, by the way, plastic outer lining will look especially good, proceed to implementation. And if you want to know more, we recommend watching a variety of videos on our website on this topic.

The better to sheathe a wooden house from the outside: materials, photos, reviews. Sheathing with clapboard outside the house is just Cladding a house with clapboard

Types of panels by raw material

The basics of choosing eurolining

Installation stages

Results

Variety of lining

Let's talk about plastic outer lining!

Let's talk about the usual classic wooden lining known to everyone!

When choosing a lining, you must be extremely careful

Let's proceed to the stages of cladding work

First stage

Second phase

Third stage

Third stage

Fourth stage

Fifth stage

Varieties of wood material

How to choose lining for outdoor work

Wood processing before cladding

No. 1. What are the main advantages of wooden lining?

No. 2. What is the difference between ordinary lining and eurolining?

No. 3. What size wagon do you need?

No. 4. Which wood is best?

No. 5. Which lining profile is better?

No. 6. What type of lining is better to choose?

No. 7. Is it possible to distinguish low quality lining?

No. 8. Which manufacturers can you trust?

LUNAWOOD

"Astar"

"Karelia"

"Vyatka pine"

PromMax

Types of lining for facade work

Peculiarities

What should be considered when choosing a wooden lining?

Types of laying

Choosing a mounting method: disadvantages and advantages

What work to do first?

Cladding the facade with wooden clapboard: step by step instructions

Preparing walls for framing

Video - Repair cracks on the wall of the house

Installation of a two-layer crate

Construction of a single-layer crate

Horizontal installation of wooden lining

We produce vertical cladding: step by step instructions

Vertical cladding with plastic clapboard: step by step instructions

Video - Sheathing a frame house with clapboard, using the example of one wall

Video - Installation of overlapping siding on a wooden frame

Types of panels by raw material

The basics of choosing eurolining

Installation stages

Frame installation

Installation of thermal insulation

Installation of waterproofing

Installing the frame under the finishing sheathing

Finishing the outer layer by lining

Results

Types and features of lining

How to make a crate for lining

How to make a wooden crate for lining

What are the advantages of ventilated facades

What are the ways of mounting lining

Types of lining

How to choose lining

Stages of work

Vapor barrier installation

Frame installation

Placement of thermal insulation

Fixing waterproofing

Installing the second frame

Lining outside

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