Mixer      04.03.2020

Hozblok from gas silicate blocks. A barn from foam blocks: how to build with your own hands. Why is it profitable to build a barn from blocks

Various non-residential buildings on the site, no doubt, are needed, they include the barn, which we will build today on their own using foam blocks.

Why foam block

Of course, there is a huge temptation to simply ignore this moment, because we just have a barn, and in fact we should not be interested in what we will build it from. Nevertheless, this is a room in which you can arrange a warehouse for certain food products, tools, and equipment.

That is, we can still impose certain requirements on the internal atmosphere.

So, the construction of a barn from foam blocks allows us to talk about the following features of the material:

  • thermal insulation how important this is for a barn depends on its purpose.
  • Ease of use. We will consider this point in more detail below.
  • Relatively low cost.

Where to begin

Of course, we are not talking about any project here, but we still need to do some sketches and calculations.

Our building will not stand on the ground, we need a simple foundation - to fill it in, to calculate the amount of material. Decide on a construction site.

  • We select the parameters of the foam block. Let it be standard size 200x300x600 mm.
  • Consider the perimeter of the barn. We have it 4x3, that is, 14 meters.
  • The wall area will turn out, with a height of 2.5 meters, 35 square meters.
  • The standard amount of material per square is approximately 5.6 blocks, which means we need 196 blocks.
  • Next, we subtract the area of ​​​​the door, the window, if any, and we already get a completely accurate version of the number of foam block products.

Important! This instruction allows us to calculate without jointing, which, however, will turn out to be minimal if we use special glue.

In terms of masonry, we are almost ready, but we still need fittings for laying in walls and a set of simple tools:

  • Roulette and corner.
  • A pair of trowels and a hammer.
  • Twine for guides and a weight for a vertical plumb line.
  • Wood saw.

Foundation

For this:

  • We dig trenches 30 cm wide and 30-40 cm deep.
  • According to technology, we fill the bottom with sand and tightly ram.
  • We install reinforcement, it can be metal with a cross section of 8 mm.
  • We install the formwork, 15-20 centimeters above the ground level, the shed of foam blocks with our own hands should rise slightly above the soil, since foam concrete easily absorbs moisture.

We also knead concrete in standard proportions, one portion of cement for four portions of sand and gravel. In total, we will get at the level of 1.8 cubic meters of concrete, and this can be poured on our own. That is, there is no question of a mixer.

A small volume will allow us to pour everything at once, therefore, this will only add strength to the entire base.

In a few days we will remove the formwork and carry out waterproofing. This is a prerequisite, foam blocks should not constantly gain moisture from the foundation. For waterproofing, we use a simple mastic, with which we prime the base in several layers and cover the top with roofing material.

Important! In principle, laying can be carried out after 3-5 days. The concrete has already fully bonded by this point, and the additional load that will be the masonry of the walls, on the contrary, will only strengthen the foundation.

masonry

The principle of laying a foam block structure is not much different from a brick one, however, of course, there are some differences:

  • Seam size. This is the first thing that immediately catches your eye. Such an insignificant thickness of the seam is achieved by the fact that we have glue, and it allows you to make masonry with a joint of 3 mm.
  • Rows, we, as in the masonry of the house, must be connected with metal mortgages. In any case, the barn must have strong walls.
  • We are working with the level and along the guides, trying not to deviate.

The ease of masonry and convenient material parameters allow even one person to build a barn in one day, at least the walls can definitely be erected.

The question of how to build a cinder block shed can practically be closed: however, we still have at least a few things to do.

First, the construction of a lintel over the doorway. This can be done in several ways, but if we still have concrete, we can simply pour it with rebar. There is no concrete left, you can put a jumper in the form of two steel corners or buy a cast concrete column.

The roof remains. But here we will make everything very simple:

  • We waterproof the upper row of masonry and install a bar on it, it is possible with a section of 100 mm.
  • We make the second parallel wall one row higher and also lay the throw.
  • Now we make a crate, perpendicularly setting a beam with a cross section of 50 mm, in increments of a meter.
  • We cover everything with simple plywood.
  • We cover the plywood with roofing material.
  • We install slate sheets, as the simplest inexpensive option, just the price will be minimal.

Advice! The sides can be laid with foam blocks, cutting them under right angle, since they are cut with a simple hacksaw for wood.

Conclusion

If you are interested in this, and you are ready to proceed, then in the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Where does each summer resident begin the arrangement of his site? With the construction of a barn that provides minimal comfortable conditions. It is in such an economic non-residential premises that there are tools for working on the ground, others necessary fixtures and materials. It is possible, of course, for construction works hire professionals. But it will be much more economical to build a barn with your own hands.
We suggest choosing foam blocks as the main material.
Why foam blocks? What is special about this material? What distinguishes it from the rest: brick, plastic, wood?

Advantages and disadvantages of a foam block for construction work in the country

  1. Foam concrete is lighter (11 kg) than brick, but it is not inferior in strength. The construction will not be as heavy as if it were made of expanded clay concrete blocks.
  2. Quality concrete. Frost-resistant, sound-proof material, and its heat-shielding properties are several times higher than the properties of bricks.
  3. The porous material has good thermal conductivity, unlike plastic. The microclimate in the barn will be like in a wooden building.
  4. Unlike wood, it does not rot, does not burn. long time(up to 8 hours) can be exposed to fire without destruction.
  5. Processing a cellular stone is quite simple with the help of conventional tools, so it is easier for summer residents to lay it than wood or brick.
  6. Construction will not take much time, since the size of the finished blocks is relatively large (20x30x60 cm). By the way, if you make foam blocks yourself, you can cut concrete elements from a monolith of a given size.
  7. Relatively cheap, economical material.

Nevertheless, it must be borne in mind that with all the advantages, the foam block has a number of disadvantages:

  • the strength of the blocks is limited, so they should not be used for the construction of tall structures and must be transported carefully;
  • it easily absorbs moisture;
  • after laying the foam blocks, the building must be additionally plastered due to the unsightly appearance of concrete and the need to protect it from low temperatures.

By the way, foam concrete was invented not so long ago, only 100 years ago. By adding to the usual cement mixture foaming agent, received a qualitatively new building material. It consists of small cells-air pockets, so it has good thermal conductivity.

Types and brands of foam concrete

There are natural and synthetic foam blocks (aerated concrete).

  • Natural cellular stone is the result of the mechanical addition of organic (protein) foam; concrete filled with air bubbles. Completely safe, environmentally friendly material, unlike synthetic. It is placed on a cement-sand composition.
  • Synthetic foam concrete, gas silicate. In addition to sand, it includes lime, aluminum powder and water. The cellular structure of the material is formed due to chemical reactions with gas release. Unlike foam concrete, it undergoes thermal firing in a kiln. The result is equal ready blocks. Possesses the expressed qualitative characteristics of foam concrete blocks. It is laid on glue, which also distinguishes it from foam concrete blocks. It belongs to the 4th class in terms of the content of harmful substances.

Foam concrete grades were distributed according to the degree of density, highlighting the main 3 types:

  1. heat-insulating;
  2. structural;
  3. structural and thermal insulation.

TO preparatory stage construction should be taken very seriously - the quality of the future barn of foam blocks depends on it.

The first stage of preparation for the construction of the building

  1. First you need to think about what size hozblok you will build, what are you going to put there, except garden tools. If you plan to store a walk-behind tractor, other mechanical and power tools, they will need a separate place.
  2. If you want to keep animals, perhaps in cages, the layout will also be special.
  3. A separate place is also necessary for fertilizers - organic, chemical. Figure out how much the building will have functional areas And will there be a workshop?
  4. Solve the problem with the presence of windows. Will they be full-fledged, or just make a small glass block window. How many entrances do you plan - one or two.
  5. Shed for a summer residence, of course, simplest design. But it is still desirable to theoretically prepare for construction. Choose a project that suits you, a diagram, a drawing. Such information is provided in large quantities by relevant sites on the Internet.
  6. In the same place, first read how to build a barn from foam blocks.
  7. Then choose the most comfortable spot location of the building. Usually it is placed near a residential building: it is convenient to go for inventory.
  8. Be sure, when choosing a place, it is necessary to take into account the presence of electrical underground wiring, sewer system and build as far away from them as possible.
  9. Calculate the dimensions of the block shed. We offer a variant of the most convenient utility building, with a total size of 600x300 cm, two isolated zones 200x300 and 400x300 cm. This room will house both a workshop and cages for animals.

The second stage of preparation for the construction of the building

  • This stage begins with the choice of the type of foundation. Most often built utility rooms from foam block, brick, stone on a belt monolithic foundation. If the soil in the country house is soft or the building will be very heavy, you can’t imagine a better tiled foundation.
  • Make a formwork for pouring the foundation.
  • Consider which roof - shed, gable or straight choose. We recommend building a gable. It is built at different angles of inclination of the slopes (at the request of the owner). Of course, a roof with a lower slope withstands gusts of wind better, but then the attic that forms after the construction truss system, will be low. It can be a useful room where food, things, utensils are stored. The height of the roof and the size of the attic will depend on you, up to the arrangement of the room on the second floor.
  • Decide on roofing material. The slate roof will be more economical option than metal tiles.
  • Calculate how many foam blocks you will need. This is easy to do, knowing the size of the structure. You also need to calculate the number of rows of future masonry. Divide the height of the barn by the height of the block to get the number of lanes. Do not forget to subtract the dimensions of window and door openings from the total calculations so as not to purchase extra material.
  • To build a roof, you need to prepare materials:
    • wooden beam for floor beams (100x50 mm - 20 pieces);
    • timber for rafters (section 100x50 mm - 20 units);
    • mauerlat (150x50 mm - 2 pieces);
    • unedged board for screed rafters (100x25 mm - one);
    • thermal insulation - 3 rolls;
    • metal bars 10 - 12 mm for the foundation.

First you need to make the front, rear and side overhangs. Thoroughly measure the width and length of the base of the building to determine their linear size, which must be made 0.5 meters larger than the base. In this way, you can avoid getting moisture on the surface of the barn, as the edges of the roof will hang over the walls.

barn construction

When preparatory work finished, we begin to build a barn of foam blocks with our own hands.
We perform the work sequentially according to the instructions:

  1. Preparation of the strip foundation. After leveling the surface intended for construction, we make markings. The width of the required trench, which we will dig along the perimeter, should be 30 cm, the depth should be from 50 cm to a meter, depending on the degree of soil freezing in winter (below the freezing level). We fall asleep in the ditch in uniform layers, first sand, then gravel, then gravel (total height up to 25 cm). We compact each layer. Then we lay a layer of waterproofing material so that it covers the trench completely.
  2. We install the formwork (its edges should be above the level of the trench). We fix the formwork with supports. It must stand firmly during pouring.
  3. Then we lay a mesh of reinforcement or a frame of metal rods in the trench.
  4. We fill with concrete. For pouring, choose a warm sunny, but not hot day. Concrete screed will dry for over a month. From time to time it must be sprinkled with water to avoid cracking.
  5. After the foundation has dried, clean concrete pavement from dirt, close up filling defects, cover with roofing material (or waterproofing).
  6. Before laying the blocks, we prepare a sand-cement mortar (1: 3).
  7. We start laying from the corner of the future barn along the perimeter of the foundation. It is advisable to use a corner foam block with an ideal angle. We check the construction level and plumb line for the correct construction of each row.
  8. Please note that the thickness of the seams is no more than 30 mm.
  9. In order for the walls to be strong, reinforcement bars are placed on the blocks of each 3rd row.

Do-it-yourself installation of a gable roof of a barn

A barn was laid out of foam blocks. The roof is erected after the cement adhesive has hardened in the following sequence:

  1. On the top row of the foam block wall we put waterproofing material- roofing material, folded in 2 layers. From above we fix the Mauerlat - wooden bars 50x150 mm.
  2. We expose extreme farms. We align them, strengthen them with the help of temporary stops (with a board that is nailed to the wall during the construction of the house), fasten to the Mauerlat. We stretch the twine between the gables, creating a direction for installing the following trusses.
  3. We assemble the rafters on the ground, after cutting out a gap for attaching to the Mauerlat, then we lift and mount it with metal fasteners.
  4. We lay roofing insulation on top of the rafter system - a hydro-barrier film membrane. Layers of waterproofing overlap one another by 7 cm, fastened with a stapler.
  5. The counter-rail is mounted with self-tapping screws, then the crate, after which you can put roofing material also overlap.

After completing the main work, you can begin to insulate the outer walls of the built barn, perform internal works, barn equipment with drains.

Hozblok project - visualization

As a building material for outbuildings, both designers and independent developers often provide one or another type of concrete stones. Sufficient strength and low price speak in their favor, and the fact that, thanks to the enlarged format, you can quickly and without any special skills of a bricklayer build walls with your own hands.

In particular, we will look at how to build a foam block from foam blocks. Although, the information provided by us may be useful in other cases.

What is a hozblok

IN Lately The hozblok is increasingly called an ordinary barn. But this is not entirely true, since the term "block" refers to a structure or structure consisting of several parts, or having a double size.

Accordingly, it is much more correct to call a hozblok such a structure that combines two or more functions for household purposes: a shed-garage, bath-summer kitchen, chicken coop. It can only be a barn, but double, designed for 2 owners.



Why combine?

Such a combination allows you to take up a minimum of space for construction, which is why today this is how outbuildings are most often designed. And given that two functional buildings will have common wall, then the savings will be expressed not only in square meters, but also in rubles.

Of course, if you have a large enough plot and there is no need to save money, you can pay attention to summer kitchen projects from foam blocks, build a gazebo, a chicken coop, or separately from this material.




Which of the above objects would not be a priority for you will be the same. The only thing for a bath is to take into account the wet operating mode of operation, which requires proper interior decoration.

In other cases, for household buildings, it will be enough only to protect the walls from constant wetting from the outside. But first things first.

Building dimensions

As for the parameters of buildings, then everything is individual, and depends on the specific purpose:

  • If you want to just build a barn with one interior, then it can be quite compact - for example, 3 * 4.5 m.
  • When you want to make a hozblok with several pantries, an area of ​​18m2 will be enough. Accordingly, the length and width of the building along the axes will be 6 * 3m, as in the photo.



  • If a garage or carport is attached to the utility block, then the dimensions of the car must also be taken into account. A passenger car requires at least 24m2 of area (6m in length and 4m in width). Accordingly, taking into account these parameters, the total size of the building should increase.
  • When there is a garden-garden on the site, you can not do without a basement in which you can store crops and harvesting. It is very convenient to make it under the barn, because:
    1. firstly, the presence of a ground structure helps to maintain a stable temperature in the dungeon;
    2. secondly, it is better than looking for a separate place for a cellar or arranging it under a residential building.
  • When constructing a utility block with a cellar, the building must be divided into two parts:
    1. In one half, in which garden tools and other tools are stored, an ordinary door will lead;
    2. In the second half, where the entrance to the cellar is located, the door should be barn - so that you can bring bags and boxes on a wheelbarrow, and not carry them on yourself.

The picture above shows the version with the most optimal parameters the building itself, and the size of the openings for doors and windows. Next, your attention is invited to a small instruction that tells how to build a hozblok. It will help to understand this issue and the video in this article.

Building a hozblok

Most often, the owners decide to build outbuildings from foam blocks when this material was used to build the main house and there was a surplus. In this case, you have to build from what is, without thinking about the selection of stones in size. Otherwise, the question of block sizes arises.

Note: If you purchased a project of a utility block from foam blocks, then it will also contain an explication of materials - including their types and parameters.

  • In principle, many manufacturers produce only one, the most popular version of foam concrete wall products: 600 mm long, 200 mm thick and 300 mm high.
  • But if you wish - if, for example, you need to make thicker walls, you can find other options (250, 300 or 400 mm thick). For you can take products with a thickness of 100-120 mm.
  • In addition to the blocks themselves, for the construction of walls you will need a masonry mixture. If it is important for you that it is warm in the building - for example, if you are building a room for winter keeping of poultry, a garage or a bathhouse, then it is better to use special glue for masonry.

Note: Since perlite sand is added instead of quartz sand as a filler in the adhesive mixtures for cellular blocks, the joints are the same in terms of thermal conductivity as cellular concrete.

If, on the site, just a barn, a fence or a gazebo made of foam blocks will be built, then it is quite possible to use the usual one for masonry. cement-sand mortar.

Foundation for masonry

Before you start building walls, you need to take care of a reliable support for them. There may be several options - but it depends on what exactly you will build.

Foundation type Its advantages as a support for a farm building

If, for example, you will build a garage with a barbecue area, a gazebo or summer kitchen, it would be most convenient to pour concrete slab, which will not only serve as the basis for masonry, but will also serve as a floor. However, this is the most time-consuming and expensive option.

Monolithic tape is cheaper because:
  • The foundation is not poured under the entire building spot, but only along the contour of the walls;
  • The thickness of the floors poured over the ground is half the height of the slab;
  • The floors can not be filled at all, but made frame.
  • It will take less time to fill.

Note: True, you still have to wait 28 days until the concrete reaches the required strength.

He was blinded from what was - a prefabricated-monolithic version

You can simplify your task if you take large-format hollow blocks to build the foundation, which will serve fixed formwork. Their advantage lies in the fact that they take on part of the load on themselves and you can start laying in a week, and not wait a whole month.

Please Note: Submit strip foundation maybe made of bricks. For this, only a full-bodied clay version is used, but in no case a silicate or hyper-pressed brick, or the foam block itself.

In the same way as for a shallow foundation, the walls of the basement can also be laid out, if one is provided under the utility block. When using hollow blocks, their cavity can be filled with concrete and reinforced for reliability. When you need to insulate, expanded clay is simply poured into the cavity.

Note: If foundation blocks are used for this purpose, then they will not need an additional foundation device. If the blocks are wall, then under them it will be necessary to fill in a tape or the same slab at the bottom of the pit.

There are frequent cases when all the previous options are not suitable for the simple reason that water is close in the ground, or you have to build on difficult terrain. In these situations, there is only one salvation - piles.

There are quite a few types of them, but it is unlikely that anyone will hammer reinforced concrete under the barn. There is a great option for this - metal screw piles. They are tied around the heads with a wide channel, the back of which will serve as an excellent base for masonry.

Construction of masonry and its protection

After your foundation is ready, you can start building walls. Regardless of the type of base, it is necessary to lay a roll of waterproofing material under the masonry.

And it is better if it is glued to concrete with mastic. This immutable rule is used not only when working with foam blocks, but also for any other wall materials.

  • Even if the blocks are mounted on glue, the first row is laid on the DSP. This makes it possible to level out all the uneven surfaces of the foundation.
  • First, corner blocks are laid, and a mooring cord is pulled between them, which will be a guide for further masonry.
  • The position of the blocks is leveled, adjusted with a rubber mallet.
  • To continue further work, the first row needs to stand for a day to gain strength.
  • From the second row, you can already lay the blocks on the glue, but you can continue to use the solution for the utility block.
  • After bringing the masonry to the required height, you will need to make a roof for your hozblok, which can be either single-pitched or gable or hip.
  • Create slope on pitched roof it is possible due to differences in the height of opposite walls, or you will have to mount wooden racks for this purpose.


In any case, the main bearing element roofing is a Mauerlat beam, which is mounted directly to the top of the masonry. To do this, an armored belt is preliminarily arranged along the perimeter of the walls, into which metal threaded studs are embedded. It is due to them that the beam will stay on the walls.

The design of the roof already depends on which version of it will be built. You can cover it with absolutely any material - but it is better if it is similar to that used for other buildings on the site.

And in conclusion about the protection of the walls. Foam concrete belongs to the category of cellular concrete, and they are quite hygroscopic due to the porous structure. Therefore, it is desirable to protect the outside of the masonry from moisture. At a minimum, it can be a hydrophobic impregnation or plaster.

Ideally, sheathe walls of foam blocks using a ventilated facade system. As in the case of the roof, the same option as on the facade of the house will look ideal, but you can choose something else: siding, profiled sheet, plastic lining.

No one Vacation home or the cottage is not complete without outbuildings. And many, before building a residential building, first of all decide to build a barn from foam blocks with their own hands. It is your work that will save up to 50% of the cost of the entire building on construction.

Why from foam blocks?

And really, why exactly from foam blocks? Are there few other building materials from which you can build various buildings, including sheds. Of course there are, and a lot. But foam blocks differ, first of all, in their technical specifications, which are not, for example, in brick or wood. To put it simply, the foam blocks combined many of the properties of brick and wood, since they:

  • With impressive dimensions, they have a small mass, which reduces transportation costs and labor intensity of work.
  • The dimensions of the foam block and low weight make it possible to erect buildings and structures 3-4 times faster than from bricks.
  • have good thermal insulation properties, due to a large number air chambers in its structure. The thermal conductivity of the foam block is almost 4 times lower than that of a brick.
  • Foam blocks have good vapor barrier, which makes it impossible to develop such negative phenomena as mold and fungi.
  • Products made of foam concrete are easy to process, you can cut the foam block with an ordinary hacksaw.
  • Foam concrete is not subject to combustion, it is environmentally friendly, since it does not contain harmful chemical impurities that could release unwanted odors and harmful substances into the atmosphere.

The website site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the required number of foam blocks.

However, do not think that this material does not have flaws. There is one which is that the foam block shed requires exterior finish, since foam concrete, having porosity, can absorb moisture, as a result of which, under the influence of temperature changes, its structure will collapse.

The first steps towards building a barn

If you decide to build a barn with your own hands from foam blocks, first of all you need to decide on its functionality - whether this building will be used to store household equipment, a home workshop, or it is planned to settle living creatures there. Based on the functionality of the barn, it is necessary to make a drawing of the future structure, where to indicate the dimensions, mark the window and door openings, partitions.

According to the drawing, it is easier to calculate the required amount of materials. Now it's up to the small - you need to choose a place where your barn will be located. Naturally, you do not need to build it in front of the house. It is better to place it on the side or behind a residential building, but not too far from it.

After the volumes have been calculated and the material has been purchased, you can proceed to the foundation. We choose, since the blocks, although they are light in weight, nevertheless, the building is being built capital and requires reliable and solid foundation.

Foundation device

According to the size of the barn, the site is cleared and removed upper layer fertile soil. Under bearing walls a trench is dug about 70 cm deep and 50 cm wide. The bottom of the trench must be leveled horizontally and a gravel-sand cushion 10–15 cm high must be made. The backfill must be shed with water and compacted.

After that, you can expose the formwork in which you want to install the reinforcing cage. For the manufacture of the frame, it is better to choose reinforcing bars of a periodic profile with a diameter of 8–10 mm. If for connection individual elements If the frame uses a knitting wire, then the frame can be mounted directly in the trench. But it is more convenient to make a welding structure on the ground near future construction. Pieces of concrete, red brick or pebbles 5 cm high are substituted under the frame from below. The same is done from the sides of the frame. Instead of the above materials, you can use pieces of foam that are tied directly to the frame. In this way, a protective concrete layer 4-5 cm thick is created, which will protect the reinforcement from corrosion..

The concrete mixture is placed in the prepared structure and bayoneted. That is, it is pierced with a sharp object - a stick or a reinforcing bar so that the concrete settles as much as possible and fills all the voids. The finished foundation must stand for 28 days. And only after that you can start building a barn from foam blocks.

How to properly lay foam blocks

The principle of laying foam blocks is no different from technology brickwork. In the same way, it is necessary to observe the horizontality of the laid out rows and the verticality of the walls. For this, there is a building level and a plumb line. Before starting laying, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing from a strip of roofing material on the foundation.

First of all, the corners are drawn out and a mooring is already stretched between them - a cord that allows you to keep the row horizontal, as shown in the photo. Foam blocks can be laid on a cement-sand mortar or on a special glue. In the case of using a traditional mortar, the seams between the blocks will be larger, and if glue is used, the thickness of the seams can be reduced to 3-4 mm, which will reduce the risk of heat leakage through the seams.

When laying, it is necessary to observe the dressing of the seams. This means that there must be a whole block above each connection of two blocks in the next row. The protruding mortar or adhesive is carefully removed from both the internal and external surfaces of the walls. When installing the block in its place, you should use rubber mallet but not with an iron hammer.

If required according to the project, lay out internal walls, then their binding to the outside is carried out by laying a metal mesh or iron anchors in the joints.

After the walls are laid out to the desired height, the next stage in the construction of the barn will be the construction of the truss system and the roof.

How to make a barn roof

If the project provides for, then the front wall of the barn must be made higher than the back in order to comply with the specified roof slope. But it is better to choose a gable roof, in this case there will be extra space in the attic where you can store a supply of hay for animals or other things. Besides gable roof and looks more attractive, and due to the larger attic space in the barn itself it will be warmer. After all, air is also a good heat insulator.

For the device of the truss system, a Mauerlat is laid on top of the walls - a wooden beam on which the rafter legs will rest. A layer of roofing material is also laid under the Mauerlat, and the beam itself, the cross section of which is usually kept within 150 × 150 or 200 × 200 mm, is attached to the walls by means of bolts or anchors. They fit on the Mauerlat cross beams floors that will be the basis of the barn ceiling and attic floor.

The rafter legs are assembled on the ground in a similarity of a triangle, which is fastened in the upper part cross bar. After that, the structures rise up and are installed alternately with their fastening with temporary struts and jibs.

top of all rafter legs connected by a ridge board. After that, the lathing step is performed, which is selected depending on the roofing material used. All wooden elements must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants to prevent wood decay and protect buildings from accidental fire.

It remains to lay the roofing material, insert windows and doors and make the floor. All this is carried out according to traditional proven technologies and should not cause difficulties in execution.

For the construction of a barn, they undertake, if necessary, to find a place for garden tools, building materials or old things that may still come in handy. It is worth a little work, and in a self-made outbuilding, you can even shelter animals or create a small workshop. In order for these plans to be put into action, it is only necessary to choose the right material, for example, foam blocks.

Pros and cons of building from foam blocks

The foam blocks used as a material for the construction of a barn have the following advantages:

  • excellent thermal insulation (no worse than natural wood), due to the porous structure;
  • excellent frost resistance associated with the ability of the pores of the material to redistribute water in the event of freezing;
  • excellent sound insulation - the result of the formation of tiny cavities inside the blocks;
  • normal air exchange, which removes vapors and protects the material from damage by mold;
  • high fire safety, because the foam blocks do not ignite;
  • simplicity installation work, due to the size of the material (large foam blocks are stacked easier and faster than small bricks);
  • relatively low weight, which allows not to put a lot of pressure on the foundation;
  • low cost compared to bricks;
  • environmental friendliness associated with the harmless composition of the material, which includes sand, cement and foaming agent;
  • ease of cutting, because foam blocks can be easily divided into parts using a saw.
  • Inside the barn, made of foam blocks, it will be warm even in winter, because given material has a porous structure

    If we consider the negative points, then experts say the following about foam blocks:

  • the material is not ideally strong, which is why it is unrealistic to build a building with a height of more than 10 meters from it;
  • raw materials can crumble and crumble during transportation;
  • ineffectual appearance forces to resort to cladding, which leads to additional costs;
  • the material can collapse if it is not protected from the cold by the necessary heat insulators.
  • The advantage of the foam block sometimes becomes a disadvantage: the porous structure collapses in severe frost

    Preparatory work

    In order for the construction of a barn from foam blocks to go smoothly, you need to carefully prepare for it: draw up a drawing and indicate on it all the necessary dimensions.

    barn project

    To make the barn as convenient as possible, it is better to take on the construction of a building measuring 6x3 m.

    A barn with dimensions of 6x3 m is considered the most popular option, as it is quite spacious and does not take up much space.

    In a room 3 m wide and 6 m long, it will be possible to create two compartments with dimensions of 2x3 m and 4x3 m. Thanks to the arrangement of these rooms, the versatility of the shed can be achieved. For example, a building can be both a livestock shelter and a workshop.

    In a 6x3 m shed, you can create 2 rooms - one spacious for storing large items and one small for auxiliary purposes

    It is more reasonable to make the roof of the barn gable. The rafter system, which forms a roof with two slopes, allows you to create an additional attic compartment in the utility room. It can store fruits and grains.

    The height of the roof depends on how the outbuilding is used. If you need a barn with 2 floors, then the roof with two slopes is made as high as possible.

    For a shed, a roof 3 m high may be enough, because under it it will already be possible to put boxes of vegetables without any problems

    Calculation of the amount of material

    In order not to be mistaken in the amount of material used to build a barn, one should refer to mathematical formulas. Before calculations, you need to find out what are the parameters of the purchased material, and decide on the height, width and length of the future room.

    For the construction of a barn, a foam block with dimensions of 200x300x600 mm is suitable, because it weighs little and guarantees the strength of the walls

    Suppose they are going to build a building of foam blocks with parameters of 20x30x60 cm on the site. At the same time, it was decided that the barn would be 6 m long and 2.5 m high. In this situation, the computational steps should be as follows:

  • They will find out how many foam blocks are required to be purchased for one row of masonry, for which the perimeter of the barn is divided by the length of one foam block: 2 (6 + 3) / 0.6 \u003d 30 pcs.
  • Calculate how many masonry lines should turn out. For this, the height of the utility building is divided by the height of the block (2.5 / 0.3 = 8.3 rows). The number of rows is rounded to the nearest whole, i.e. up to 9.
  • Find out the total number of foam blocks to create all masonry lines: 9 30 \u003d 270 pcs.
  • It is taken into account that there will be windows in the barn, therefore, such a number of elements are subtracted from the total number of foam blocks building material, which could take up space in the openings. Let's say it is planned to make two windows in the barn. Their estimated dimensions are 50x50 cm. It follows that in one window hole fits 1.6 blocks in length (0.5 2/0.6=1.6) and 3.3 blocks in height (0.5 2/0.3=3.3). It is allowed to create two windows, then the resulting figures are rounded off and added: 2 (2 + 4) = 12.
  • They take into account that doors will appear in the barn, therefore, from the total number of foam blocks, the amount of building materials that could be in doorways. Suppose that in the barn it was decided to make several doors 2 m long and 60 cm wide, including a double entrance group. It turns out that for one doorway 7 foam blocks are required in height (2.0:0.3=6.66) and 1 foam block in length (0.6:0.6=1). And to create the second one, double door you will have to use 2 foam blocks in length (1.2: 0.6 = 2) and the same 7 foam blocks in height. Based on the above calculations, you can calculate how many blocks are occupied by the space intended for placing doors: 1 7 + 2 7 = 21.
  • Find out the exact amount of material that could be placed in the area of ​​​​windows and doors. For this purpose, the figures obtained earlier are summed up: 21 + 12 = 33. After that, the number of blocks needed to build a barn with windows and doors is calculated. To do this, extra elements are subtracted from the total amount of building materials: 270–33 = 237.
  • Next, calculate required amount building materials for the construction of the roof of the barn. This is about wooden bars and boards that will become elements of the supporting structure of the roof, as well as external material, such as red metal tiles.

    Turning to the calculation of the amount of roofing materials, it must be borne in mind that the length of the overhangs at the back, front and side should be 50 cm more than the length and width of the base. If this condition is not met, then the walls of the building will be covered with snow and poured with rain.

    When building the roof of a barn, you will need not only boards and roofing material, but also a waterproofing sheet and fasteners

    During construction gable roof you will need the following materials:

  • 20 wooden beams 3 m long and 10x5 cm in section for the manufacture of rafters;
  • 17 boards for lathing details with a section of 10x2.5 cm and a length of 6 m;
  • 20 bars with a section of 10x5 cm and a length of 4 m, which will later become floor beams;
  • 2 beams with a section of 15x5 cm and a length of 7 m to create a Mauerlat;
  • a board with a section of 10x2.5 cm and a length of 3 m, used for crossbars of rafter legs;
  • 3 rolls of insulating material;
  • a set of screws and nails;
  • metal corners, that is fasteners providing connection of rafter legs with floor beams.
  • The subtleties of choosing a foundation

    The type of foundation is chosen, focusing on the building materials from which it is planned to construct the building.

    The choice of foundation is influenced by the material of the walls of the barn, because heavy blocks must be placed on a solid foundation.

    Foundation types

    For utility buildings, it is customary to create one of the following foundations:

  • columnar, because it avoids unforeseen costs, is being built in a short time and is perfect for frame-panel houses;
  • screw - only possible variant for construction on soils characterized by softness, heaving, high sand content or high humidity;
  • tape monolithic, the construction of which is seriously considered when they are going to build a brick, stone or concrete building;
  • tape block, because it is great for buildings on dense and hard soils, is not inferior in strength to a monolith, but at the same time much cheaper.
  • The choice of foundation based on the type of soil on the site

    When deciding on what basis to put a barn of foam blocks, you need to carefully analyze the soil at the construction site.

    It is on the composition of the soil that the choice of foundation mainly depends, because the foundation always interacts with the soil

    Consider the following nuances:

  • If the soil is sandy, you will have to do everything possible so that the created foundation is not damaged by the displacement of the earth under the influence of showers and melting snow. Concerns about the integrity of the foundation will not arise only if a tape monolithic, screw or slab foundation is built on soil with a high content of sand.
  • If an excessive amount of clay and sandy loam is found in the soil, one must be prepared for the fact that the earth will freeze to a greater depth, and quicksand will appear in it, which deprive the soil of the necessary density.

    Clay soil requires the creation of a particularly reliable foundation that will not move under the influence of frost heaving forces.

  • If the earth for the most part consists of gravel, you can calm down, because the soil with such a composition freezes slightly and is stable. Gravel soil is a real find for those who are planning to put a barn on a foundation of individual supports.
  • If the ground is rocky or solid, then there is nothing to worry about. On it you can safely build any foundation. The only thing that should not be installed in such a land is screw piles.

    Only screw piles cannot be immersed in rocky soil, and other types of foundation are quite suitable for it.

  • The nuances of choosing a heater

    Although the foam block barn itself is a kind of thermos, it, like other buildings, requires additional protection thermal insulation material. The insulation will insure the room from cooling the walls and crumbling foam blocks.

    The material that serves as a barrier to the cold must be laid on the ceiling and on the floor, outside and inside the foam block shed. This is especially true if the building is located in an area where the cold temperature lasts for a long time.

    The barn can be insulated from above and below, outside and inside, thereby creating a barrier to heat escape

    When they are going to insulate a barn from foam blocks, they make a choice in favor of one of the following materials:

  • mineral wool;
  • Styrofoam;
  • expanded polystyrene;
  • cork plate;
  • penofol;
  • polyurethane foam;
  • expanded clay (exclusively for the floor).
  • The outer side of the walls of the barn is insulated with mineral wool, if necessary, within a limited budget. But this material attracts not only by its low cost, but also by its good ability to lock heat into a lock. Mineral wool can let in vapors, which makes it a material that ventilates both foam blocks and the space behind them. And this type of insulation does not ignite and does not deteriorate for a long time.

    Mineral wool is considered inexpensive and quality material to insulate the walls of the barn

    However, some facts may make you change your mind about insulating the barn with mineral wool:

  • the material functions well only if it is reliably protected from moisture, and saturated with moisture, it loses its ability to hold warm air;
  • it is important to lay the insulation strictly according to the instructions, otherwise it will shrink excessively, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation;
  • installation of mineral wool can only be done by wearing a respirator on the face.
  • Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene

    Styrofoam and polystyrene foam have the same base, but differ in their characteristics:

  • density (for polystyrene - only 10 kg per m³, and for expanded polystyrene - 40 kg per m³);
  • water absorption (polystyrene foam practically does not absorb water and steam compared to polystyrene foam);
  • composition (foam inside contains granules, and polystyrene foam is a completely homogeneous material);
  • cost (styrofoam costs less and is therefore often used to insulate walls from the outside).
  • Styrofoam is in high demand, as it is easily glued to walls and is cheaper than polystyrene foam

    Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene are not comparable with mineral wool, because these heaters do not let noise through themselves and continue to function without problems under the influence of low temperatures. The ability of foam materials to retain heat is also significantly better than mineral wool.

    They resort to cork as a heater, taking into account the following features of this material:

  • reliable soldering with the surface with glue;
  • excellent thermal insulation due to the cork structure;
  • the ability to create a barrier to noise;
  • no need for finishing;
  • minimum requirements for the surface for insulation, which can not be plastered perfectly smoothly.
  • Cork attracts the attention of many, because it combines the properties of insulation and finishing material.

    Penofol is called foamed foil polyethylene, capable of retaining almost 100% of warm air in a building. Since this material has such a unique ability, it is actively used as a heater for interior walls.

    It is customary to insulate walls with penofol indoors, since it has a small thickness

    Penofol installation involves fastening beams with a section of 1x1 cm to the walls. They form a lattice, in the cells of which the cut fragments are placed. thermal insulation material. The seams between the layers of insulation are sealed with aluminum tape.

    Any place in the house, not excluding the roof and internal walls, can be insulated with polyurethane foam. The material has become popular due to the simple installation technology. Polyurethane foam is not attached to the wall, but is sprayed on it without the use of an adhesive. Therefore, this insulation is firmly connected to the surface when its structure hardens.

    Polyurethane foam has earned a good reputation, as it is characterized by the following advantages:

  • during application to the wall, it turns into a continuous surface without joints;
  • does not pass heat through;
  • it weighs little, due to which it does not require additional strengthening of the truss structure;
  • is not damaged by compression and tension, as it consists of cells;
  • serves about 50 years, if not subjected to mechanical stress;
  • does not ignite;
  • dense and airtight, which is why it does not need to be protected by a vapor barrier membrane;
  • creates a barrier to the wind;
  • does not become prey to mice and insects;
  • does not become moldy, since it practically does not absorb moisture;
  • acts as a shield when exposed to sounds from the outside;
  • safe for humans, because its composition is devoid of toxins;
  • sold at a reasonable price.
  • Polyurethane foam applied to the wall in an unusual way- spraying

    The thermal insulation of polyurethane foam is much better than the ability to retain heat from all other materials. A 5 cm layer of this insulation functions in the same way as 8 cm of foam or mineral wool laid in a 15 cm layer.

    Polyurethane foam is extremely flame resistant. Unlike other heaters, this material deteriorates only if it is in close proximity to a fire source. Polyurethane foam never ignites.

    When the floor is insulated with expanded clay, an ideal layer is obtained that does not let warm air out of the building. This material is customarily poured exclusively on concrete surface, on which a lattice of bars with a section of 15x10 cm is laid. A space of 60 cm must be left between the structural elements.

    Expanded clay is usually covered with an area under the subfloor, which significantly speeds up the process of warming the room

    Expanded clay, consisting of granules, fills the cells of the crate created on the floor. The resulting layer of insulation is leveled in such a way that the loose material is only under the collected from wooden elements design. Expanded clay is covered with a vapor barrier film, and later - with a subfloor, that is plywood sheets or oriented strand board.

    List of tools

    To build a barn from foam blocks should be using:

  • roulette, building level, square and ruler for measurements;
  • concrete mixers or a drill equipped with a mixer to prepare the concrete mixture;
  • containers for liquid concrete;
  • bayonet shovels with which you can dig trenches;
  • shovels designed for mixing and supplying concrete;
  • large watering cans like water containers;
  • pump and flexible hose required for supplying cement mortar;
  • stairs;
  • hammer;
  • spatula;

    When building a barn from foam blocks, you will need a wide spatula that will allow you to quickly apply plaster

  • self-tapping screws and nails;
  • screwdriver.
  • Step-by-step instructions for making a barn from foam blocks

    Starting the construction of an outbuilding, the first step is to prepare the construction site. The site is cleared of debris and made perfectly flat. After that, they proceed to the construction of the foundation and other works.

    Foundation for building

    Most often, the foundation for a barn made of foam blocks is made tape. This type of foundation is created in stages:

  • The construction site is marked along the perimeter of the building under construction. This task is coped with with the help of a long rope and pegs.
  • A trench is dug along the line of pegs installed in the ground, the bottom of which should be 50–100 cm from the soil surface, that is, deeper than the freezing level of the soil. The standard trench width is 30 cm.

    Under the strip foundation of a barn with two rooms, markings are made along the perimeter of the building and under the inner wall

  • The bottom of the trench is hidden behind a layer of sand 10 cm thick. The so-called pillow should turn out to be dense, so it should be well spilled with water and compacted.
  • Another material is laid on the sand - gravel. A layer 10 cm thick is formed from this building material.

    Sand and gravel are evenly distributed and pressed into dense layers

  • On top of the layers of sand and gravel, a material is laid that protects the created backfill from moisture that can get into it from liquid concrete. The waterproofing film is used in such a way that it covers not only the gravel, but also the walls of the trench.
  • Boards or metal sheets assembled into a formwork - a form filled with concrete. It is important to make the auxiliary structure so high that it extends beyond the surface of the earth and rises to the top edge of the plinth of the building being erected. In order to avoid accidental displacement of the formwork, its walls are fixed by means of clamps, spacers and struts.

    Formwork boards are strengthened, and metal rods are laid inside to strengthen the foundation.

  • Inside the auxiliary structure, a frame of metal rods is laid, the task of which is to strengthen the base being created. Elements designed to make concrete as strong as possible should have a diameter of 10–12 mm.
  • The frame, assembled from metal parts, is poured with liquid concrete of the M-250 grade at one time.

    The formwork can be removed when the concrete is fully cured.

  • It is forbidden to fill the formwork with concrete if it is bad weather or unbearable heat outside. Otherwise, the composition will not be able to harden within the set period, that is, 4 weeks.

    Walling

    To build the walls of a barn from foam blocks, follow these steps:

  • The concrete base for the construction of walls is cleaned of dust.
  • See if there are any defects on the concrete surface. Identified inconsistencies, such as sharp protrusions, are eliminated.
  • A waterproofing sheet is laid on the concrete foundation. For this purpose, ruberoid is usually used. suitable material also considered hydroisol.
  • To glue the foam blocks together, prepare a solution consisting of one part of sand and three parts of cement.

    Blocks are laid in the same way as bricks, that is, they must overlap the seams

  • The first foam blocks are laid at the corners of the foundation. The following masonry elements are placed between them. One foam block must be connected to another seam no more than 3 cm thick.
  • The first line of laid foam blocks, like all subsequent rows, is checked for evenness.
  • Having created a third line of foam blocks, lay out metal rods. Reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm is necessary to strengthen the walls. It is customary to use it every time when it is required to lay the next fourth row of blocks.

    Metal rods are placed before laying every fourth row

  • Video: features of laying foam blocks

    Roof installation

    The construction of the roof is started, making sure that the mortar between the foam blocks has hardened. The roof should be built in stages:

  • The blocks laid last are protected by two layers of roofing material and are connected to the Mauerlat bars by means of metal studs. It is important that the studs are installed evenly at a distance of 1.2 meters from one another.

    Mauerlat bars are laid only after the blocks are covered with waterproofing material

  • The construction of the rafter legs is assembled on the ground. Each element of the truss system is created, focusing on a previously made template, on which the necessary grooves are made.
  • First of all, two end trusses are placed on the walls of foam blocks, creating gables. Their position is corrected if necessary. To strengthen the farms, temporary stops and a board nailed to the wall of the building are used.

    All gables are set according to the level of the stretched twine, otherwise the roof will not be even and tight

  • Between the installed extreme trusses at the level of the board that will become the ridge, twine is pulled on both sides (at the completion points of the truss system).
  • The extreme farms are tightly connected to the Mauerlat. Marks are left on it, which will help to arrange the following elements of the truss system. Only after that, the rest of the farms are placed on the base of the roof. At the same time, attention is paid to a previously created landmark - a stretched twine.
  • The supporting structure of the roof is covered with a waterproofing membrane, and a crate of bars with a section of 5x6 cm is placed on top of it. The created base is covered with metal tiles.

    Roofing material is attached to the crate with a screwdriver and special roofing screws.

  • Wanting to make the attachment points more rigid, it is wiser to use metal fasteners. Parts made of wood will cope poorly with the task, as they gradually dry out, preventing the nails from providing the necessary rigidity of the joints.

    Building insulation

    It is preferable to insulate the barn from the outside and cover it with plaster, which gives the building a finished look.

    The task of warming the barn is performed as follows:

  • The surface is cleaned of dirt and leveled if there are protrusions on it.
  • The walls are treated with a primer.
  • Armed with dowels and anchors, planks are fixed on the prepared surface, which will become a support for the first line of foam sheets.
  • Glue is prepared by mixing P22 grade polymin and cold water. The composition is turned into a homogeneous mass using a drill, on which a mixer is mounted. To obtain the desired consistency, the solution is left for 5 minutes.
  • The foam board is treated with glue. The composition is smeared around the entire perimeter, retreating from the edges of 3 cm. At the same time, it is not applied in a continuous line, but gaps are left that will ensure air circulation. Glue is applied to the central part of the slab with strokes of about 10 cm in diameter.

    The adhesive composition is not smeared over the entire surface, but applied pointwise

  • The foam board treated with glue is pressed against the wall with such force that the glue does not flow out of the material.
  • Fasteners can be installed at the joints of the plates, thereby connecting two adjacent elements of the insulation material to each other

  • Slopes of windows and doors are protected from displacement by means of perforated aluminum squares.
  • All foam plates attached to the walls are covered with glue, forming a layer 3 mm thick. On it, using a large spatula, put a reinforcing mesh. It is immersed in the adhesive evenly.
  • After a few days, during which the glue must harden, the insulation is covered with plaster.

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