Mixer      03/05/2020

How to make a big pond How to make a pond on the site with your own hands: step by step instructions. Pond from the bath

Not big pond able to decorate and diversify any suburban area. And it will be even more pleasant if you build such a pond with your own hands. It may seem complicated, but with quality instructions, there should be no problems.


Floating flock of ornamental fish the best decoration pond

Traditionally, work begins with preparatory activities.

Stage 1. Decide on the place and size

First, we determine the place in which the decorative pond will be located. To do this, we take into account the following points:

  • there should not be trees near, because their roots can damage the bottom of the structure, and the leaves can clog the water;
  • the place should be open, as well as illuminated by the sun for at least 6 hours a day (this will increase the intensity of algae reproduction without infringing on terrestrial plants);
  • if possible, it is desirable to leave room for future expansion of the pond;
  • the area of ​​the reservoir should not exceed 3% of the total area.

In a word, than less area, the easier it is to construction works. In terms of depth, the reservoir is divided into three levels:

  • for plants near the shore;
  • shallow water for winter-hardy water lily;
  • a deepening in which fish will winter (if we breed them).

Note! It is undesirable to make the reservoir too deep - it is quite enough to make a deepening of 1.6-1.8 meters (that is, below the freezing level of the soil). The area of ​​deepening should not exceed one fifth of the entire pond.


Stage 2. Decide on the material

There are a lot of materials that can serve as the basis for a decorative pond, but the most popular of them are the options below.


Due to the fact that the construction of a decorative reservoir from a mold can hardly cause any difficulties, we will consider the second construction option in more detail.

Prices for finished ponds and bowls for ponds and fountains

Ready-made ponds and bowls for ponds and fountains

Stage 3. We prepare consumables

The work will require:

  • PVC film;
  • ruberoid;
  • stones are round;
  • rope;
  • stone slabs;
  • shovel;
  • sand;
  • bricks;
  • fine gravel.

Having prepared everything you need, proceed to the next step.


Stage 4. Dig the pit

Step 1. First, we create a sketch of the future reservoir on a scale, indicating the dimensions and width of the curtains (shelves for plants, that is, the upper step of the structure). This will help to avoid possible difficulties not only during construction, but also when planting.

We also think over the accent of the composition - a large original stone, for example, a sculpture or just a tree.

Step 2. With the help of a rope or sand, we outline the intended contour of the reservoir. Be sure to check that all the banks are at the same level, after which, using a shovel, we cut the turf along the perimeter of the pond.



Step 3. Now let's get started earthworks. First, we dig a pit to a depth of the first level (about 30-40 cm) and mark a line from which it will be buried to the second mark (90 cm). Next, we create the deepest level (up to 1.8 meters if we plan to breed fish), extract the last portion of the soil.

Note! It is recommended to regularly check the level of the banks during the digging of the pit. In the absence of a water level of the appropriate length, you can take a simple long board and attach a 50-centimeter device to it.

Step 4. To dig a reservoir, it is advisable to use the services of specialists in this kind of work, accompanied by a small excavator, because this work is quite difficult. But if it was decided to do this stage of work with your own hands, then you should be prepared for the fact that moisture will accumulate in the pit and you will have to dig in dirty slurry. A pump can be used to remove water (but only specially designed for pumping liquid with solid particles). Nearby, you can dig another hole to dump water into it.



Step 5. Carefully inspect the bottom of the finished pit for branches, sharp stones and anything that can damage the film. We check the horizontality of the banks, if necessary, align them.


Step 6. Along the perimeter of the pond, we dig a ditch 20 cm deep to fix the film. Then, using a rope, we measure the dimensions to determine the required size of the film, add 0.5 m on each side.

When carrying out earthworks, you may encounter the problem of where to put the earth from the pit. An excellent solution to this problem is to raise the level of the site by evenly distributing the soil over the entire garden area. Another option is also possible - to use the land for the construction of an alpine slide.

Stage 5. We lay the film


Step 1. We cover the bottom of the pit with a 15-centimeter sand "cushion", carefully tamp it down.

Step 2. To protect the PVC film from damage, we lay a layer of roofing material (we overlap).

Step 3. We cover the bowl of the reservoir with a film. We do it freely, with a small margin along the banks. We press the ends of the film with bricks.


Note! To increase the elasticity of the film, it is advisable to carry out laying on a sunny day - under the influence of temperature, the film will stretch better and easily bend around all the protrusions of the pit.

Step 4. We fill the pond with water, but we are in no hurry to cut off the excess film. It is necessary to wait approximately 24 hours for the PVC coating to take its final volume. Then we cut the film, lay its edges in a pre-made trench, turn it up and fill it with rubble.





Note! Often the width of the film is not enough for the whole pond. In such cases, several pieces are interconnected by soldering.

Prices for various types of pond films

Pond film

Stage 6. We equip a decorative pond

Step 1. In order to prevent the earth from shedding into the bowl of the reservoir, we strengthen the edge. This can be done with:

  • stone blocks;
  • plastic pipes nailed to pegs.

We lay out the edge with natural stone (although brick, tile, and other materials can also be used), decorate with a group of boulders or one large block.

Step 2. We lay out the bottom of the reservoir with rubble or stones. Then we place the pre-prepared plants in plastic containers and arrange them in curtains. It is advisable to use plants that saturate with oxygen (such as hornwort, water lily, swamp, etc.). After that, the pond can be finally filled with water.

Note! For correct selection hydrochemical preparations and a pump, it is necessary to measure the volume of the reservoir. To do this, when changing the water, read the water meter readings before / after the filling procedure.

Step 3. We can make a small stream for the permanent circulation of water - this will prevent the latter from stagnation. To do this, we raise the source slightly above the level of the reservoir and set it to supply water from the bowl. We plan to decorate the mouth of the stream, for which you can use:

  • stones;
  • containers made of glass or clay;
  • vegetable planting.

Step 4. Install at the bottom of the reservoir, stretch the pipes to the source and connect them to the cleaning filter. The latter must be pressure, that is, with the provided reverse cleaning, since it is much more efficient than usual.



All, ready! It remains only to regularly clean it from dirt, use special means, revitalizing the water and preventing the excessive spread of algae, as well as remove plants on winter time.

When building a pond, it is difficult to avoid some mistakes, especially the compositional plan. For this reason, you need to be aware of the common mistakes gardeners make.

Plant growing zonesPlants
coastal zoneConifers, elderberry, ferns, meadowsweet, lilies of the valley, bergenia, etc.
CoastlineGubastik, fluffy, marigold, veronica handrail, highlander snake, forget-me-not, etc.
Plants for decorating shallow water (up to a depth of 5-20 cm.)Calamus, reeds, umbrella susak, cattail, arrowhead, etc.
Deep water plants 30-150 cmWater lily, jug
Plants for decorating the surface of the water (floating on the surface of the water)Duckweed, water paint, telorez


Finally, planning independent construction pond, first practice - make, for example, a miniature pond, and only then move on to larger compositions. This will greatly increase your chances of success.





Good luck with your work!

Video - Creating a pond in the country


Everyone loves to relax on the water various types, be it a river, a lake or an ordinary pond. In the summer, it is nice to feel the cool air, relax to the sound of the murmur of water. Imagine how great it would be to have something like this in permanent and personal use? For example, having a small plot of land and a holiday house, bask by the pond. In addition, a do-it-yourself small pond will always please the eye with its aesthetics and cleanliness. If you think about it, this idea is quite feasible.

Tools and materials:
1) a pair of hands and a shovel.
2) cement mixture.
3) pegs and a hammer.
4) pond mold or rubber sheet.

As usual, we start everything with a choice suitable place. The main enemies of such an invention will be the sun and trees. From warm rays, the water will bloom, and the root system of the tree can damage the structure of the reservoir. Avoiding these factors, we are looking for a vast territory for the pond. You can think in advance that in the future you want to decorate or expand the boundaries of the reservoir. Install all kinds of decor: bridges, fountains, etc.

We decide on the material that we need.

1) If the boundaries of the pond will be large enough, then it is best to choose a special butyl rubber sheet. Polyvinyl chloride film is also suitable. Long term services, durability, will help to transfer the pond to the next generation (from 10-35 years) without any problems. This method will allow you to make a pond of any shape that the summer resident wants. There are no special restrictions on further work.

2) If we have a small territory, then it is advisable to stop at the finished form. Polyvinyl chloride or more durable plastic. Everything will depend on the financial capabilities of the buyer. One thing: the pond will be limited by the size of the acquired form. At the same time, there is one very significant plus: the speed of work will increase significantly. It is enough just to dig a pit of the desired shape and install it inside.

In our case, the pond was dug under the film, so we will consider this method in detail.

Construction stages:

1) Pit.

The first step is to create a pit. We didn’t have the opportunity to take the excavator into operation, so we had to make do on your own. The size of the pond was not so huge as to rub the palms into the blood with a shovel. Initially, having driven pegs into the ground to mark the contours of the reservoir, terraces dug out. Their depth was approximately 30 cm and width - 20 cm. After this is over, we proceed to the main bowl. The slope of the coast should be approximately 45 degrees, and the minimum depth should be 60 cm. If you do not take into account these rules, then the artificial reservoir will completely freeze in the winter and heat up excessively in summer. This is in case some flora and fauna for special connoisseurs will be launched into the pond. All living things cannot survive sudden changes in temperature. To fix the purchased film, a ditch almost 20 cm deep breaks out along the perimeter of the reservoir.

2) Alignment.
After the foundation pit is ready, the bottom of our reservoir must certainly be leveled. All stones are removed, whether it is a barely noticeable trifle or large cobblestones. We can use them for decorative framing. However, they can damage the coating we are laying from the inside. The surface of the film is covered with washed sand by 5 cm. Fulfillment of this condition will protect the film coating from damage and extend its life, and, consequently, the life of our product.

3) Coating.
The next step is to lay (in our case) butyl rubber. We take the length and width of the cover, depending on the size of the pond. For its length and depth. The latter is doubled. Let it be better to have a little left than not enough at the most crucial moment. To fix the film along the edges of the reservoir, we measure a half-meter margin. We lay the canvas inside completely freely, working only with its edges, fixing them with cobblestones. You can just take something heavy.

4) Water.
We fill the resulting structure with water, slowly remove the stones and cut off the edges of the film. We are waiting for 24 hours for the water, with its weight and volume, to help the coating take the necessary shape along the pit we dug. After waiting, cut off the remnants, leaving a quarter of a meter for decoration. You can do more, here everyone is guided by their own imagination. The blind area must be laid on cement mortar, be it brick, stone or simple tile. In the future, along the perimeter, you can install a fountain or a bench, plant moisture-loving plants. This completes the production.

One of the brightest tools in landscape design is decorative pond. Of course, most of the suburban areas are limited to the traditional six acres, and the owners simply cannot build a large pond, but because of this, you should not give up the dream of acquiring an artificial pond. As for the technical part, it will not become an obstacle, but subject to good instructions and desire. So, today we will find out how to make a pond in the country with our own hands step by step.

First, you should find out what purpose the construction of the pond on the site will pursue. From this point of view, water bodies can be divided into four large groups.

Table number 1. Classification of artificial reservoirs by functionality

Group nameShort description

They are an element landscape composition and are intended, first of all, to decorate a particular area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden. Near such reservoirs, active recreation is not provided.

They are deeper and often decorated with fountains, bridges, sometimes equipped with lighting. Similar ponds are built near the house or gazebos, benches with awnings are placed nearby. Therefore, it is quite obvious that such reservoirs are the heart of the recreation area for residents of the house.

This option is suitable not only for avid fishermen, but also for families with children - the latter will enjoy watching bright fish while relaxing in nature.

They are also artificial summer cottages and not only perform an aesthetic function, but also provide an opportunity to freshen up or even swim (it all depends on the size).

Then, based on the goal and our capabilities, we proceed to the choice of style, location, size and shape.

Second phase. Deciding on style

An artificial pond can be made in one of two options, and each of them also has a great many modifications.

Table number 2. Styles of artificial reservoirs

NameShort description

This name accurately reflects the essence - these are structures that differ in clearly defined outlines. The shape of the pond, correct in terms of geometry, is suitable for those areas that are decorated in the style of minimalism, high-tech, modern or classic. But, characteristically, the shape can be not only rectangular, but also square, round, oval, broken.

They are more popular, because they are characterized by naturalness and irregular outlines of the coast, which means that they bring a person closer to nature. The shape of the reservoir here depends only on personal preferences, but the more complex it is, the more difficult it will be to lay the film (more on this later).

The relief of the site also plays a big role in choosing the style. So, if the surface is sufficiently even, then the shape of the pond can be any. If there are irregularities and drops on the site, then they need to be given Special attention, but they make it possible to additionally equip a cascade or waterfall. In addition, against the background of all this, say, an artificial slide will look great.

Also, the reservoir can be slightly raised above the ground. In this case, the construction technology will differ only in the arrangement of the foundation, which will prevent possible distortions of the bowl.

When creating such a reservoir, earthwork is minimized, and it will be much easier to take care of it.

Note! If the reservoir will be built with a fountain, then preference should be given to a high design.

Third stage. Choose a place

Let's start with the fact that we place the reservoir in the most suitable place, so that it is possible to admire our creation from anywhere in the site. That is why when choosing we take into account several important factors.

  1. Land area. Not only the size of the pond, but also its shape directly depend on it.
  2. illumination. It is preferable to place an artificial reservoir in a shady place where exposure to direct sunlight does not exceed five to six hours a day, otherwise some of the water may simply evaporate. Moreover, in sunlight, biological activity can develop, which is unlikely to beautify the pond. Therefore, having chosen a specific place on the site, we observe the solar regime for several days.
  3. Relief. The shape of the pond depends on it, and it also simplifies the device additional elements(for example, fountains).
  4. Level ground water, soil composition. These indicators affect not only the depth of the reservoir, but also the complexity of the work and the need for additional consumables.

Note! The greater the depth of the pond, the more illuminated the place it should be placed. If the reservoir is intended for fish, then we take the location even more responsibly, since the oxygen content in strongly heated water decreases.

  1. Expandability. Do not forget about the perspective, so on the one hand we leave free space.
  2. Visibility. It is desirable to arrange the reservoir so that it can be seen from the house and places of rest.
  3. Power supply. If a fountain or lighting is additionally equipped, then we think over electrification in advance. It is better to lay wires even during development, and underground and in a reliable protective corrugation. There should be small access hatches at the junctions.
  4. Reflection. The pond will look more attractive if the surface reflects the sky or beautiful buildings rather than some commercial building.
  5. Landscaping. The vegetation near the pond is, of course, beautiful, but the leaves will pollute it and form silt. Moreover, the root systems of trees can lead to damage to the waterproofing layer.
  6. Compatible with general design and other objects.

We begin work in the spring - so we will have enough time for the reservoir to "take root" on the site.

Fourth stage. Deciding on sizes

It is difficult to say that a large pond will cost more than a small one, since there are a lot of nuances here. So let's look at the key points.

1. Dimensions. They depend on the location of the reservoir. Many say that the pond should be an average of 3-10% of the total area of ​​the site, although there can be no clear recommendations in this case. As for the length and width specifically, they depend not only on the area land plot but also on our capabilities. After all, we will dig a hole under the reservoir by hand.

2. Depth. It depends on the purpose of creating a reservoir, as well as its size.

3. The difficulty of the content. The larger the pond, the easier (no matter how paradoxical it may sound) to take care of it.

4. Zoning. The reservoir is divided into the following zones:

  • coastal (from 10 cm to 40 cm), which will serve as an entrance and for planting a plant;
  • shallow (from 40 cm to 100 cm), where crops that grow deeper will be planted (for example, winter-hardy water lily);
  • deep-water (more than 100 cm) - it is required only in those reservoirs where fish breeding is planned; the area of ​​this zone depends primarily on the number of fish, but on average it should be more than 20% of the total area of ​​the reservoir.

5. Biological balance. In any case, living creatures will settle in the pond, which means that it is necessary to provide such conditions so that it can clean itself. No oxygenation or chlorination of water is provided here. It is worth remembering: no more than ½ of the entire area can be allocated for plants.

Note! The lowest point should be lowered below the freezing line of the soil, especially if you plan to breed fish - so they can survive the winter in non-freezing water.

Fifth stage. Choosing materials

The next question to be dealt with is the choice Supplies. There are many options on the market today that can be used to create an artificial reservoir. Let's consider them.

concrete pond

The most expensive option, which, nevertheless, allows you to operate the reservoir for quite a long time. Although concrete pouring is more suitable for arranging a pool.

Finished plastic container

This option is more suitable. A form made of fiberglass or PVC allows you to build a pond in record time and use it for up to 30 years (the specific period depends on the quality of the container).

The procedure itself will consist of only four steps:

  • dig a pit;
  • set the form;
  • fill the remaining voids with sand;
  • we plant plants, fill the reservoir with water.

The disadvantage of this method is the difficulty of transportation (if the volume is large) and the need for basic installation knowledge (otherwise the bowl may be damaged). Moreover, plastic containers degrade over time under the influence of UV radiation.

Note! It is preferable to use a fiberglass bowl, which is reinforced with rubber - this design is more reliable and suitable for repair.

Polymer film

In terms of the shape of the pond, this option provides simply unlimited possibilities. by the most available material is polyethylene film although it won't last long.

PVC film has a longer service life, with proper installation it can last up to ten years.

Perhaps the most reliable option. For ponds with rocky bottoms and great depths, it is recommended to use a butyl rubber (EPDM) membrane, which has a service life of up to 50 years. In addition, this material is able to withstand repeated frosts.

There are a few folk ways the manufacture of a reservoir in which improvised materials are used. Let's get acquainted with the most popular of these methods.

Pond from an old bath

Great option, because a bath is a container that was originally intended to hold liquid. The bath can be painted in bright colors and placed in a picturesque corner of the site or, alternatively, deepened into the ground.

Tire Pond

An easy way to create a mini-pond on the site. The manufacturing process is shown in the photo below.

Pond from a basin

An even easier way. The basin is able to retain water well, so it can be installed in the same way as a bath. With proper decoration, such a mini-pond will be an excellent decoration of the yard.

Note! Not only the aesthetic characteristics of the pond, but also its service life depend on the choice of material. It is desirable that the selected material is environmentally friendly.

Sixth stage. We prepare the equipment

To create a simple artificial reservoir, we need a level, a cart with a shovel, a cord, a hose that is used for watering, and pegs.

If the pond is more technologically advanced, then you will need the following equipment:

  • cleaning filter;
  • sterilizer (it will remove algae so that the water is clear);
  • pump for pumping / pumping water;
  • aerator for oxygen saturation (especially important when breeding fish).

Seventh stage. We create an artificial reservoir

There are plenty of materials that can be used to create a reservoir, but we will focus on PVC film. The fact is that it is cheaper, it takes better desired shape, it can be repaired, and specific knowledge or skills are not required for operation.

Step 1. First, choose the color of the film. There are several possible options here.

  1. Black film - it will turn the bottom into a mirror (plants, clouds, etc. will be reflected).
  2. Cream, blue- so the reservoir will look more like a pool, and the fish on a light background will be more clearly visible.
  3. brown- will imitate the soil of natural reservoirs. Great option for a landscape pond.

Also, when choosing a film, we pay attention to the composition (PVC is more durable than PE) and thickness (for a pond, material thicker than 0.5 mm is required). Moreover, the greater the depth of the reservoir, the greater should be the thickness of the film. No less important is resistance to UV radiation and mechanical damage.

Note! If the depth of the pond exceeds 1.5 m, then we use butyl rubber. Such a film is resistant to stretching, deformation and UV, moreover, it can withstand temperatures of 40-80°C.

  • pond width + (depth x 2) + margin (55-60 cm) = material width;
  • pond length + (depth x 2) + stock (55-60 cm) = material length.

For gluing, we will use a special glue (for example, "Tagnit") or adhesive tape (Quick Seam 3).

Step 3 The next step is to create a schema.

First, draw it on paper, and then transfer it to the ground. We indicate the dimensions of the steps or "shelves" for plants - this will avoid possible problems. For marking use sand or flexible garden hose(preferably a bright color).

After that, we cover the marked area with a piece of light film and examine it from different angles. We make adjustments if necessary.

Step 4. Roem a pit. To do this, perform the following steps.

  1. First we remove the sod.
  2. Then we dig the pit itself. At the same time, we move from the edges to the center, delving into the required places - it’s more convenient. For laying stone and decorating, we equip a ledge with a depth of 60-70 cm.
  3. We remove the soil, and with it the roots, stones, debris and everything that can damage the film. By the way, you can make an alpine hill out of the excavated earth.

When carrying out earthworks, we pay attention to ensuring that the banks of the future pond are located on the same line. If a waterfall is created, then we maintain the required height difference.

Note! If a large level is required, we can make it ourselves. To do this, lay the usual level on a long, flat board.

Step 5 We lay the underlay. We carefully tamp the bottom of the finished pit, after which we proceed to the waterproofing layer, which will prevent the penetration of water into the soil.

The substrate can be made in several ways:

  • we cover the bottom with stones and fill it with sand (this kind of waterproofing will lose its properties in a few years);
  • we lay a layer of geotextile, which we fill up with sand (it will cost a large amount);
  • stacking pvc film(the most reliable way, so let's focus on it).

Step 6 Next, we lay the film, preferably on a sandy "cushion" (the latter will prevent damage by stones and other dangerous objects). It is advisable to lay on a hot day - heating up, the film becomes more pliable.

This may cause problems with the formation of folds. We try to make one large fold, and not a large number of small ones, then glue it or press it down with stones. The film must be loose, loose.

For its fastening, a swarm along the perimeter of an additional trench. We lay the film there, after which we fall asleep crushed stone. Next, we fill the trench with large stones with a flat bottom (so that the film does not tear). We lay the walls with round stones (flat ones will slide). At the end, we fill the pond with water - we serve it without pressure, directing it to the center of the pit. After two days, cut off the excess film.

Step 7. We strengthen the coast. Their slope depends on the type of soil: if it is sandy, then the walls should be sloping, if we are talking about clay or black soil, then vertical. The optimum slope angle should be approximately 45°.

The fortification itself depends on the type of coast.

If they are gentle, then you can use:

  • geomat;
  • geogrid;
  • polymer geogrid.

You can also use a regular chain-link mesh by filling its cells with soil with seeds perennial grass(for example, clover). There is another option - to strengthen the coast with shrubs or plants.

If the coast is steep, then we can use:

  • piles;
  • gabions;
  • retaining walls.

It can also be effectively strengthened with the help of biological methods (planting). Ideally, biological methods gains should be combined with engineering.

Eighth stage. Making an artificial pond

There are several ways decorative finishes reservoir. To make it a full-fledged design element, use one or more of the following methods.


As a conclusion. Features of care

Finally, a few words about further care behind an artificial reservoir.


Video - Creating a pond from a film

How nice in the heat summer time spend a few hours by a shady pond or lake! Of course, it's great if there is one in the neighborhood. However, most often we spend free summer days in the country, and not everyone has the money for a big Vacation home and landscape design services. In this case, there is nothing left but to make a pond with your own hands, especially since it is not so difficult.

It all depends on your imagination, the size of the site and what is at hand. With a little effort and Money, then the country pond will not only delight you, but also cause burning envy among your neighbors.

The size and shape of yours primarily depend on the area allocated for these purposes. But the larger the area of ​​the pond, the easier it is to take care of it - a small one needs to be cleaned more often. If you plan to have fish and plant a lot aquatic plants, then a small reservoir will not suit you either, because it is very difficult to maintain the correct eco-balance in it.

by the most the best place for a home pond there will be an open part of the site, at the same time protected from strong winds. Do not place the reservoir in a well-lit place: the location should be such that Sun rays do not fall into the water for more than 6 hours in a row, otherwise it will bloom, and only frogs can live there. Dubious prospect, right? At the same time, if the lighting is insufficient, the plants will develop slowly, and a beautiful corner for relaxation will not work.

If you decide to equip a small fountain, you will definitely need a pond diagram in order to properly connect the pump and other equipment. With a little effort, you can sketch out the plan yourself. Of course, in this case, it will be necessary to consider the proximity of the location of the power supply network.

Do not place your home pond under the crowns of trees. Firstly, this will lead to additional water pollution with fallen leaves, and the pond will have to be cleaned much more often, and secondly, tree roots can damage the reservoir bed, and it will dry out quickly.

And, of course, the whole idea will become useless if you cannot enjoy beautiful view from the window or from the terrace, so when planning to make a pond on the site with your own hands, do not forget about the aesthetic side of the issue.

Home pond on a rigid basis

If you are a supporter of solid, durable construction, then you can approach the process on a grand scale: dig a foundation pit of sufficient size and with the help of metal fittings and cement to cast a reinforced concrete bowl of the pond. Such a design, of course, will cost a lot, but it will last for many years (at least 30). If you are not an adherent of a global approach, you can get by with an easier and cheaper option.

So, how to make One of the most elementary ways to make a dream come true is a ready-made “bowl”, which can be purchased at the store. Perhaps the main disadvantage of this option is that you can come up with your own original form the reservoir will not succeed, you will have to be content with the proposed assortment.

by the most inexpensive solution is a plastic pond of small size, from 4 to 8 m 2 . Of course, there are larger molds, but they already belong to the category of pools and are much more expensive. When choosing a container, you should definitely pay attention to its depth - it should be at least 0.8-1 meter. In summer, the water in such a pond will warm up completely, and all its inhabitants will be comfortable, but in winter such a pond will not freeze to the bottom, which is also very important.

If you decide to organize a pond on the site with your own hands and want to use a ready-made base for this, then first of all you need to study the materials from which the molds are made - there are also a few nuances here.

The simplest and cheapest option may be a regular plastic container, but it has its drawbacks. First of all, you need to be very careful during transportation and installation - such a tank can crack even with a slight bend. Plastic also tends to break down. sunlight, which means that the service life of such a product is not too long - 5-10 years.

If you want your pond to last longer, choose forms made of special reinforced plastic - they have a much longer service life (up to 20 years). Such tanks are more plastic and less exposed to ultraviolet radiation.

The highest quality and, of course, the most expensive are products made of rubber-based fiberglass. This form is resistant to temperature changes, does not collapse from exposure to sunlight and does not release into water harmful substances, which is very important for the inhabitants of the reservoir. Such a tank will serve for more than 30 years, in addition, it can be repaired, which extends the time of use by an almost unlimited period.

Building ponds from a fiberglass bath is a simple process, and its result is quite aesthetic, as these forms come in different colors, and some even have a coating imitating stones, sand or small pebbles. This allows you to beautifully mask the edges of the reservoir and give it the most natural look.

We build ourselves

So, in order to build a pond on the site with your own hands, first of all you need to decide on the location and shape of the reservoir. Decided? Let's start construction work:

  1. To begin with, we mark the contour of the pit. It is very easy to do this - set the shape to the right place and outline its silhouette using the usual bayonet shovel, tightly pressing the cutting into the edge of the tub.
  2. Add about 20 cm to the resulting contour to fill the plastic pond with sand.
  3. If you have acquired a form with ledges, then each level must be marked and dug separately, from larger to smaller, while remembering to add 10-15 cm on each floor for a sandy substrate.
  4. When the pit is ready, its edges should be well leveled and compacted, all glass, stones and tree roots should be selected. Failure to do so may damage the mold. Then you need to pour and carefully compact the sand with a layer of at least 10 cm - this will save your pond from subsidence.
  5. Install plastic mold and make sure that it is level, for this you can use the rule. Then carefully fill the pond with water to about a third, being careful not to budge it.
  6. Fill the gaps between the edge of the pit and the mold carefully with sand. At the same time, you need to make sure that there are no voids left. Why periodically water the soil with water, but try not to make the pressure too strong.

For a week after installation, regularly water the ground around the pond and add sand as needed. After the subsidence of the soil stops, you can completely fill the reservoir, decorate the edges of the pond bowl with stones, flagstone and plant ornamental plants.

Country pond made of flexible materials

Now let's talk about how to make a pond on the site, if it is not possible to purchase a ready-made container or you want to equip a large pond of a bizarre shape.

by the most budget option in this case, ordinary polyethylene with a thickness of at least 500 microns will be used. However, despite the fact that it is quite inexpensive, there are quite a few disadvantages of such a coating. The fact is that polyethylene is a rather thin material, it is very easy to damage it, and under the influence of sunlight it becomes completely brittle and quickly collapses. A pond on a polyethylene substrate will last you a maximum of 2-3 years.

PVC film for the pond - the material is also not too expensive, but much more durable, such a coating can withstand 8-10 years. Polyvinyl chloride coating can be ordinary and two-layer, in which a woven mesh is laid for strength. Of course, PVC has the same disadvantages as polyethylene - it is destroyed by ultraviolet radiation, it is easily cut and torn, but, unlike the latter, it can be repaired. For this, special kits are sold. Besides, pvc is better stretches, and after filling the pond with water, most of the folds stretch and straighten out over time.

The most expensive, but at the same time, the highest quality is a coating made of butyl rubber: the service life of such a material is about 50 years, and it does not care about the sun's rays. In addition, butyl rubber is not afraid of low temperatures, so you do not have to drain the water from the pond in winter. This is a very flexible and plastic material that can withstand significant loads, so if you decide to equip a spacious pond unusual shape, you simply cannot do without it.

We mark the pit

To equip a pond on the site with your own hands, you will need:

  • pegs;
  • rope;
  • film coating;
  • geotextile or felt;
  • sand;
  • crushed stone or large pebbles;
  • shovel;
  • special kit for film coating repair;
  • bricks;
  • garden hose for watering;

With the help of twine and pegs, you need to mark the desired shape of the pit and proceed with earthworks. If you are planning to set up a pretty pond large sizes, you can bring an excavator. In the process of work, it is necessary to ensure that ledges and slopes alternate, this will make the banks of the pond more stable. It is also necessary to provide terraces (at least 30 cm wide) for planting plants. Descents from one level to another must be made quite gentle, with an inclination angle of up to 45˚.

It is worth remembering that the depth of the pond should not be less than 80 cm, otherwise in winter the water in it will freeze to the bottom, and its inhabitants will die. Thus, you need to dig a pit, about 15-20 centimeters larger than the estimated size of the reservoir. This is necessary in order to be able to fill the terraces and the bottom of the pond with sand, in order to avoid subsidence and damage to the film. The sand cushion must be carefully leveled and compacted, after removing all pebbles, sharp sticks and plant roots from the bottom.

Drainage and waterproofing

When the drainage cushion made of sand is ready, we proceed to the next stage of work. In order for the pond film to remain intact for as long as possible, geotextiles should be laid on a layer of sand, preferably in 2 layers. Next, we straighten the film itself and fix it on the banks with bricks or large stones. Do not try to straighten and expand all the folds - let the water do it for you.

We place the flexible one in such a way that its end is in the center of the future reservoir, and we begin to supply water, making sure that the pressure is not too strong. As the pond fills with water, partially release the edges of the film and straighten it along the slopes of the pit. After the reservoir is filled to the brim, leave it for 1-2 days. During this time, under the weight of water, the film will straighten out and fill all the voids.

After it completely sags, you need to cut off the excess parts, leaving at least 40-50 cm for arranging the banks. The edges are fixed with pegs or special metal shackles, and then masked with flagstone, large stones and pebbles. It's time to install the pump, decorate the hoses from the fountains and start planting plants.

Pond above the ground in the country

When there are kids in the family, one of the main problems when building a pond is how to make the pond safe. It is best if such a reservoir is slightly raised above the soil surface. Firstly, it greatly facilitates its care, and secondly, the risk that small children or pets accidentally fall there is significantly reduced.

In this case, you can not do without a reinforced concrete foundation. Dig a pond pit in its deepest part, form terraces for plants, as well as in the previous case. On the banks of the reservoir, using wooden formwork, fill in the concrete foundation of the desired height; for strength, it can be reinforced with a metal mesh. After the foundation is completely dry and settled (this will take at least two days), the formwork can be removed, and the inner walls can be plastered to smoothness. This will help prevent tearing of the film. We line the bottom of the pit with it and fill the bowl with water. At the same time, we fix the edges of the material so that they are behind the concrete fence. After the pond is full, let the water settle, cut off the excess film, fix it and decorate the edges of the bowl.

Inventory: what you need

Of course, the construction of ponds is not an easy task, but what can you do for yourself, because if everything is organized correctly, the result will please the eye for more than one year.

However, it is not enough to build a home pond - you also need to take care of it. Here are some technical tools that will be very useful to you:

Rules for the care of a country pond

The pond in the garden is, of course, very beautiful, but if you do not want to become the happy owner of a personal swamp in which frogs croak in the evenings, then you need to properly care for it. First of all, you need to ensure that the water in it does not bloom. Of course, it is best to purchase a special purification system, but this, unfortunately, is not a cheap pleasure. However, there is another, more available remedy: take a bag of canvas and stuff it Place such a "surprise" under the water, and there will be practically no algae at the bottom of the pond.

It is also necessary to carefully monitor the cleanliness of the reservoir - regularly remove debris from the surface and add water as it evaporates. If your pond has small size, then for the winter period it is recommended to completely drain it, and for large tanks it is necessary complete cleaning at least 2-3 times a year, while the water must be completely pumped out.

From what's at hand

And what about those who do not allow the size of the site to accommodate even a small pond? Do not be upset: a small pond can also be equipped in the front garden, adapting a trimmed one for this purpose. metal barrel Or just a big bowl. Such a mini-pond can even be placed on the balcony of a city apartment, decorating the container with glued pebbles or mosaics. Of course, you won’t hear the murmur of a fountain near such a “reservoir”, but you are provided with coolness and lush greenery of aquatic plants.

An artificial reservoir on a private plot can become a source of not only aesthetic, but also gastronomic pleasure. With some effort to breed fish, you can get a good help in providing yourself and your loved ones with a valuable fresh product. And if you approach the matter on a grand scale, then earn. After all, doing everything with your own hands in the country at home is not so difficult.

Types of fish are selected in accordance with the breeding conditions. The determining factors are air temperature and water composition. The type of pond is essential - flowing or stagnant. When selecting varieties, one should take into account the coexistence of breeds, competition for food. The most unpretentious and productive are:

  • Carp or carp- heat-loving, but resistant to temperature fluctuations. The diet is vegetable food and mixed fodder. Enters puberty in 1-3 years, depending on temperature environment. Varieties - scaly, mirror and leathery.
  • - a large relative of the carp. Reaches a weight of 50 kg or more. Motherland - Far East. It eats a large amount of plant food, is used to clean overgrown reservoirs.
  • black carp- similar to white, but feeds on molluscs. Scales of dark color. Well sanitizes ponds from pests of other species.
  • White and motley carp- very similar up to 3 summer age. Then the motley appear spots on the scales. Reach 50 kg. The white carp feeds only on plants. Motley is more unpretentious.
  • buffalo- looks like a carp, the birthplace of America. According to the growing conditions, it is similar to carp, but the meat is palatability much more valuable.
  • channel catfish- omnivorous, large, thermophilic. Motherland America. With proper feeding, it has a very pleasant taste of meat.

Less productive, but well amenable to breeding in a man-made pond, are:

Golden and silver carp are unpretentious, fast-growing. Can interbreed with other fish species. Gaining weight up to 5 kg. Feels good even with unfavorable composition of water.

Trout, pike, tench, sturgeon are also bred in artificial reservoirs.

Grass carp is a type of freshwater fish suitable for pond breeding.

Advantages and disadvantages of home fish farming

An important advantage of breeding in a homestead economy is the ability to obtain for personal consumption or sell all year round products in high demand.

Fish meat contains a lot of valuable substances and vitamins. Fresh catch has excellent taste.

The capital investment required to start fish farming is not very high. The complexity of cultivation is from 3 to 5 hours a day. Weather conditions when using an artificial reservoir slightly affect the growth of individuals.

Major investments are made in initial stage. It is necessary to build a pool or dig a pond.


The main expenses for breeding - at the initial stage in the manufacture of the pond

Their type and size are determined by the financial capabilities of the owner and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site. The minimum depth of an artificial reservoir is 1-1.5 m. The volume is calculated from the estimated number of individuals settled in the pond. One fish 10-15 cm long should have at least 50 liters of water, i.e. in one cubic meter reservoir can peacefully coexist no more than 20 copies.

Types of breeding pools

The quality of the water in the mini pond, its chemical composition depend on the source of the pond filling. It also determines the temperature, the presence of food and the oxygen supply of the aquatic environment.

What type of filling the reservoir exists:

  • Stream or river. Water in the reservoir comes from natural sources through the supply channel. The excess is removed by the outlet channel. The content of oxygen and plankton in a pond with such filling is favorable for breeding, because. closest to natural conditions.
  • Spring. Pure water with a high oxygen content is most favorable for breeding fish different breeds. For a source of food in the territory adjacent to the reservoir, daphnia pits are arranged - small small depressions for the reproduction of plankton. They communicate with the main body of water. Daphnia move to the pond and serve as food for fish.
  • Atmospheric. In the absence of rivers, streams and springs, the source of moisture is rain and melt water. Well-heated water is favorable for the development of vegetation and living organisms.
  • closed water supply. The use of ponds without external sources water was made possible through the use of special equipment: pumps, filters, ultraviolet sterilizers, etc. When constructing a reservoir, special attention should be paid to waterproofing the bottom.

Pond for fish with stream filling

How to make a pond with your own hands

Having decided to arrange a fish pond on the site, you need to determine its location, area and method of construction. If there are no natural sources of filling, the reservoir is built using a closed water supply.

How to choose the right site

The place for the pond must meet the conditions:

  • be away from noisy places and highways,
  • be shaded by trees, but not under them, because falling leaves pollute the water,
  • not be located in a lowland, because there is a risk of contamination by runoff rainwater,
  • have a source of electricity for water purification filter equipment and oxygen enrichment plants.

Necessary tools and materials

The most durable is a pond with a concrete bottom. Its device requires significant material and labor costs, which will pay off with interest in the process of long operation.

To build a pond you will need:

  • rubble,
  • sand,
  • cement,
  • grids of reinforcement with a diameter of 3-4 mm and a cell of 30x30 cm,
  • board formwork,
  • roofing material or other material for waterproofing the bottom and walls,
  • tubes for inlet and outlet openings,
  • waterproofing additive for plastering the bottom and walls.

The technology of creating an artificial reservoir in the country

  1. Mark the size of the pond on the ground. For this, pegs and a cord are used. For fish breeding, the shape of the pond does not matter.
  2. Digging a pit by hand or using an excavator. The optimal depth is 1.5-1.8 m, the angles of inclination of the walls are 20 °.
  3. Before concreting, preparations are made from sand and gravel with tamping of the bottom.
  4. Lay waterproofing from roofing felt or film with its output to the surface of the earth.
  5. The first layer of concrete is poured to the bottom with a thickness of 10 cm, tamped and sunk reinforcing mesh all over the bottom.
  6. The second layer of concrete is being poured.
  7. Install the formwork for the walls of the pond. IN ready-made they should be 10-12 cm thick.
  8. Reinforce and pour concrete walls of the reservoir.
  9. Concrete surfaces are covered with plaster with a waterproofing additive or liquid glass. The wall treatment material must be safe for the life of fish.
  10. Install necessary equipment: pumps, filters, oxygen water enrichers.

For a successful wintering of fish, a wintering well should be provided. It is arranged from asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 80 cm or ordinary reinforced concrete rings. In a well buried to the mark of 2.7 m, covered wooden shield, the fish will not freeze and will not die from a lack of oxygen.

Even a beginner can build a pond with his own hands. Fish farming will not take much time if the process of stocking, fattening and catching is established. Even if the purpose of fish farming is not to generate income, this activity will bring benefits and pleasure.