Insulation of a house made of timber: outside or inside, review of materials and technologies. Insulation of a wooden house made of profiled timber for long-term living Prices for facade panels

The timber from which it is assembled is also used for the construction of load-bearing structures or fences. In fact, it is a log after edging on 2, 3 or 4 sides. Three-sided processing produces timber with front side imitating a log surface.

Beam and whetstone are different concepts. A diameter thickness of less than 100 mm is a block. To assemble a house, the timber must be made of pine (for better air permeability) and have a cross-section of 150x150 or 190x150 mm.

For low-rise housing construction they use:

solid timber (cheap, but burdened with long-term shrinkage in the future);
glued (high-tech, with specified useful properties, and therefore expensive material);
profiled (with a tongue-and-groove connection installed during processing - this removes the internal pressure leading to cracking of the wood).

Profiled timber is made from solid wood or glued from lamella boards. The last option has no drawbacks and belongs to premium-class building materials. This type of lumber differs and by surface treatment method:

profiled timber (German) - “comb”;
profiled timber (Finnish) - with two tenons for connection;
profiled timber with cups - grooves for corner joints;
timber with a smooth front surface;
timber with a convex front surface.

What makes timber the preferred material in private housing construction?

Blessed for design appearance, the ability to play with color and texture.
Simplicity and waste-free construction.
Factory surface treatment suitable for applying finishing materials (drying oils, paints).
Environmentally friendly construction while maintaining a healthy microclimate.
Excellence in operational properties over a rounded log.
Comparative efficiency.

All appearing later flaws houses made of timber are a consequence of violations of the production technology of this material.

No matter how carefully the walls made of profiled timber are assembled, it is impossible to avoid loose fit and cracks. They make the house ventilated and permeable to low temperatures.

That's why important stage construction is the correct insulation of a house made of timber - internal and external.

Insulation of a house made of profiled timber

Traditional tow has now become effective competitors: jute, linen wool, ecowool, mineral wool slabs, fiberglass, expanded polystyrene, thermobasalt. To evenly distribute the insulation between the crowns, tapes made of fibrous materials in the form of a non-woven fabric are used, which are attached to the wood with a stapler or glue.

In choosing insulation worth following not only its heat-saving properties, but also its susceptibility to open fire, fungal and mold damage.

What is meant by “insulation of a wooden house”

Insulating a house made of timber can mean simply protection from blowing, or protection from the penetration of cold air. And we can consider this process as a set of conservation measures internal heat in winter conditions. Each target will require different insulation materials, different technologies implementation of this stage of construction, varying degrees of complexity of the measures taken.

The most simple insulation is caulking the inter-crown cracks. It is carried out in 2 stages: in the first (during the assembly period) pieces of tow are placed between a pair of timber, in the second (after the house has settled) - the tow is tucked into the cracks with a special spatula using a hammer. The process is simple, but labor-intensive and time-consuming.

Insulating the house from the inside

Whatever insulation is used in this case, its primary task of preserving heat is certainly combined with sound insulation from the external environment. Insulating the walls inside should not significantly reduce the size of the premises, so insulation boards are chosen no thicker than 3 cm. They are provided environmental Safety and resistance to destruction by rodents. On top of the insulation, the walls are usually lined with plasterboard.

Technology for proper insulation of a house made of timber from the outside

Insulation works timber house outside, they begin with checking the quality of the joints after reaching the natural moisture content of the timber, selecting a heat insulator and calculating it required thickness(up to 7 cm). Now there is a convenient opportunity to make calculations using an online calculator on the Internet.

Worth considering that insulation work will not greatly affect the dimensions, but can change the appearance of the building beyond recognition, so it is necessary to immediately decide on the type of future cladding (plaster, siding, false beams) and the intended finishing work.

External insulation can be done in the following way:

arrange a suspended ventilated façade;
insulate the outside with polyurethane spraying;
insulate with polystyrene foam.

Required tools for insulation work.

Tape measure and plumb level.
Hacksaw.
Self-tapping screws.
Ladder or scaffolding.
Lumber for sheathing.

Sequence of work on installing a suspended ventilated facade

If the timber used in construction was dry, then curtain façade You can start doing it immediately after the construction of the log house.

First of all, you need to seal the inter-crown cracks (see “caulking”).
The sheathing begins to be assembled from a frame made of bars (50x70 according to the height of the insulation). They are fastened to the wall vertically with nails, in increments along the width of the insulation.
Using ventilated facade technology, the lathing is made in two levels to obtain a gap of 3 cm between the insulation and the finishing coating.
Insulation boards are laid end-to-end between the sheathing structures.
A special material (diffuse membrane) is stretched, securing construction stapler to the sheathing.
Strengthen the finishing material of the facade.

This type of insulation makes the façade stable to any type of atmospheric phenomena, prevents rotting and molding, preserves the ability of wooden walls to “breathe”.

Insulation by spraying polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam- polymer No. 1 adheres well to a clean, oil-free surface. Applied in several passes with special equipment under pressure in a layer of 50 mm on a wall made of timber, it forms a moisture-proof film without seams or cracks and closes the pores of the wood. This covering is removed under the curtain wall façade. finishing material.

The method is very simple and economical, it is carried out without lifting mechanisms and scaffolding. A significant advantage is resistance to open fire, the duration of preservation of heat-protective qualities, resistance to rotting processes and the effects of bacteria.

However, it is necessary to provide when designing a house ventilation system, effectively problem solving vapor permeability of polyurethane film.

Foam insulation

Insulation of a log house with polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) can be done both inside and outside. This is an inexpensive and effective material to use. For insulation work take slabs 5 cm thick and special glue.

Starting profiles are attached horizontally to clean, dry walls below to prevent the cladding from slipping.
Glue is applied both to the foam and to the gluing site, lubricating the joints.
Work is carried out from the bottom up.
The drying time of the glue is 3 days.
After drying, the foam is further strengthened with special dowels.
Subsequent work is carried out after priming the layer.

Shrinkage of profile timber up to 3-4% occurs in the first six months to a year.
When working with insulation, it is important to observe safety measures: eye protection - goggles, hand protection - mittens, respiratory protection - respirator.
The insulation cannot be stored outdoors: getting wet will reduce its heat-protective properties.
Insulation boards can be installed by surprise without additional fasteners if the distance between the sheathing elements is reduced by 1.5 cm.
Spray insulation can be done at temperatures not lower than 10 degrees.
Organic insulation materials are susceptible to destruction by rodents.

Profiled timber attracts many Russians with its affordability and excellent thermal characteristics. However, most of them mistakenly believe that such a house will not have to be insulated. Of course, you want to preserve the unique wooden flavor of the interior and exterior of the building, but comfortable living is more important. There are some nuances when it comes to insulating a house made from profiled timber. We will tell you about them today.

When can you not insulate?

In fact, profiled timber does not always need to be insulated. If a house is being built in a region with a warm climate or for temporary (seasonal) residence, then it does not need insulation. The boards fit tightly enough to each other and are able to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the absence of too low temperatures.

Such a dacha - perfect option for fans of eco-friendly wooden houses. The owners will be able to admire the beauty of the log house both inside and outside in the summer. They will also enjoy pleasant coolness in hot weather and warmth in case of unexpected cold snap.

If the house is being built for permanent residence, then you need to insulate it. It is also definitely recommended to insulate the baths. How to do this depends on the thickness and type of profiled timber.

What types of profiled timber are there?

This material can be very different in cross-section. Thanks to this master, it is easy to select boards for the desired construction.

The thinnest profiled timber reaches 95 millimeters in width and 145 millimeters in height.

The rest are significantly larger than 195x145.

You must understand that even the thickest profiled timber is not able to fully protect from the cold in winter. Especially in the far north. The house needs additional insulation.

In any case, it is necessary to carefully select the material. High-quality profiled timber has a high degree of drying (humidity up to 20%). Compliance with the technology in the manufacture of the material prevents shrinkage and deformation of the walls subsequently. For this reason, even when working with the best specialists they need to be monitored when purchasing timber. You live in the house, and every mistake will later come back to haunt you with problems.

The level of thermal insulation to some extent depends on the chosen profile. It can also be different:

with one spike;

with two spikes;

with beveled bevels;

"comb";

Finnish profile.

Of course, the last option is easiest to install, but in terms of thermal insulation characteristics, the “comb” wins. If you need to build a house in a region with a harsh climate, this is the one they choose.

Stages of home insulation

If you want to minimize heat loss, then you need to take a thorough approach to insulation. It needs a foundation, floor, walls, roof. In each case, you need to take into account the characteristics of the designated elements of the house. Only then will it be possible to make your home truly comfortable.

Foundation

The base of the house is best insulated from the outside. This way you will save money and protect the foundation from freezing and destruction due to sudden temperature changes. In addition, in this case the basement area will be preserved, which is also important.

Internal insulation is permissible only when external insulation is impossible. The house was originally built without external insulation of the foundation, and this omission needs to be eliminated.

Basic materials for external insulation:

polyurethane foam;

extruded polystyrene foam.

Polyurethane foam has excellent hydro, heat and sound insulation characteristics. It is applied using special equipment. The layer of material must be at least 50 millimeters.

Advantages of polyurethane foam:

completing the work does not take much time;

absence of cold bridges in the foundation;

no gaps or seams.

Extruded polystyrene foam takes longer to lay. However, it costs much less and practically does not absorb moisture, which ensures the maximum level of waterproofing.

The insulation must be installed to the freezing depth. This is the most rational use material, money and time.

Installation should be carried out along the walls of the building. This will reduce the depth and degree of freezing.

Floors

Even if the floorboards fit tightly together, over time they dry out and gaps form. To avoid removing the coating and carrying out insulation work in the future, it is better to do everything correctly at the initial stage.

Floor insulation involves the use of not only insulation, but also vapor and waterproofing. The choice of materials depends on the type of floor, so it is better to consult a specialist before starting work.

The most common method of floor insulation is using joists. To do this, logs are installed in a T-shape in the foundation or frame. Shields are nailed to them from below, on which they are installed necessary materials. First there is hydro- and vapor barrier, then insulation, and the third layer is again hydro- and vapor barrier.

The finishing floor is laid after this work has been completed.

Walls

It can be insulated both outside and inside. There is another option for those who do not want to give up the wooden aesthetics of the timber - interventional insulation.

The choice depends on your preferences. Do you want to admire solid wood both in the interior and exterior? Choose interventional insulation. If only the appearance of the house is important to you and you are not afraid of reducing the area of the rooms, insulate the inside. When only the interior matters, and siding or facing bricks seem attractive, then external insulation is best suited.

Materials:

for inter-crown insulation, sheep wool, flax, flax batting or jute are used, the latter option is new on the construction market, which has excellent performance characteristics;

for external insulation you can take polystyrene foam or cotton wool;

for internal - only cotton insulation.

Be sure to install vapor barrier materials to prevent moisture from being absorbed by the insulation. Also take care of ventilation in the house to ensure a comfortable climate in the house.

The ceiling is insulated in the same way as the floor, and the technology for insulating the roof is similar to the thermal insulation of walls. We will not dwell on these points.

It is better to consult a specialist about the details when carrying out insulation work. He will be able to give the best advice in your particular case.

Log houses were once quite common, they were built to accommodate people in small towns and villages, they were erected with funds from the local administration in the countryside. Nowadays, municipal housing is not built from timber at all. But there are enough houses like this left, and private construction is now experiencing a boom in this material. Therefore, insulating a house from profiled timber or ordinary timber is sufficient actual question both for the developer of a new home and for the owner of an old one.

The timber used to assemble houses is also used as a supporting structure. Therefore, its insulation will also have a beneficial effect on its durability as the basis of the supporting structure of the entire house, be it a one-story small house, or a municipal three-story apartment building.

How to insulate a house built using profiled timber

Previously (since ancient times), tow was used to insulate gaps between logs. In the last century, insulation of a house made of profiled timber, when this technology began to be used, began to be carried out using jute fiber and flax wool.

Nowadays, various variations of ecowool, mineral wool slabs, fiberglass slabs, expanded polystyrene, and basalt wool are increasingly used for this purpose.

A uniform layer of insulating fiber in the inter-crown space is ensured using tapes of fibrous materials, which are non-woven fabrics attached to the wood using a stapler or glue.

In addition to interventional insulation, they use outdoor installation insulation both by sheets and by inflatable method. Ecowool, mineral wool, polyurethane foam - everything goes into use.

What is meant by the term “insulation of a house made of laminated veneer lumber”

Insulating a house from laminated veneer lumber can protect the building from drafts or the penetration of cool air. Insulation can also be considered as a set of measures to ensure the preservation of heated air inside the house during winter frosts.

Depending on the specific need is selected best insulation for a log house, the specific technology for organizing this part of the construction process, the varying complexity of the set of measures.

One of the simplest insulation processes is considered to be the process of caulking the roof gaps. Insulation of a house made of profiled timber is organized in this way in several steps:

At the stage of laying the beams, tow is placed between them.
After which (when the log house has already been assembled), the remaining gaps are caulked using a special spatula and hammer, jute-flax fiber or the same tow.

The process is not complicated, but it is labor-intensive and time-consuming. In addition, the worker performing this process must be very careful - this work does not like to be rushed.

The process of insulating walls from the inside

Regardless of what kind of insulation is used for a log house, its initial task is to ensure heat preservation and sound insulation of the interior.

It is worth noting that the insulation must be compact so that there is no significant reduction in the internal space of the insulated premises. Also, the insulation for a log house must be environmentally friendly and resistant to rodent attacks.

After the insulation of a house made of profiled timber from the inside is completed, the structure is closed using plasterboard, wooden/plastic lining or other facing material.
For a detailed article about proper insulation of a log house from the inside, see our website in the “Insulation” section.

Technologies that ensure proper external insulation

Proper insulation of a house made of timber should begin with the need to check the quality of each of the joints, after the beams have dried, select a thermal insulator and calculate the number of layers (the standard thickness of mineral wool is 50 millimeters).

The process of external insulation is carried out in the following ways:

arrangement of a suspended ventilated facade;
insulation with external polyurethane coating;
insulation using foam plastic.

Detailed article about external insulation wooden house look on our website in the “Insulation” section.

Stages of work on arrangement of suspended ventilated facades

Insulation of the façade of a timber house, provided that the timber is dry, can begin upon completion of construction, since there is no need to wait for drying. Work begins with caulking the inter-crown cracks (the process is described above).

The beams are fastened vertically using nails or self-tapping screws. The width between the beams should be slightly narrower than the width of the insulation.

We organize the lathing in two levels to obtain a gap of 30 mm between the surface of the insulation and the finishing coating.

After this, the technology for insulating a house made of timber involves laying insulation boards end-to-end. Following this, the diffuse membrane is stretched and attached to the sheathing using a stapler.

At the finish we install the material chosen for finishing the facade. For more information about the ventilated curtain facade, see the information at the link.

Insulation with polyurethane spraying

Using polyurethane foam, you can create a homogeneous seamless layer, which is primarily required when insulating a house made of timber. Photos of the final layer can be seen here:

One has only to say that the process itself takes place in several stages, and the final layer must be at least 50 millimeters. Next, the insulation layer is covered with finishing materials.

The process of working with insulation materials installed using the inflatable method is well shown in the article “Insulating a timber house from the outside with ecowool.”

The process of insulation with foam boards

Thanks to foam plastic, it is possible to organize both an internal and external insulation layer. Insulating a house made of profiled timber with polystyrene foam is similar to laying mineral wool.

The difference is that when using it, they do not use anchors, but a special adhesive composition, which is applied to prepared, grease-free walls. Just like in previous methods, the insulation of a house made of laminated veneer lumber is completed with the use of finishing materials.

Choosing the best insulation

The best insulation for a log house is this moment two materials:

Ecowool
Basalt wool

Both of these materials have all the necessary properties to be considered the best insulation materials:

They allow water vapor to escape.
They do not burn and do not support combustion.
They are the least environmentally dangerous.
They have excellent, extremely low, thermal conductivity.

The only disadvantage of these two materials is their hydrophilicity; when wet, they lose their heat-insulating properties.

Standard timber section for frame house– 150 x 150 mm or 200 x 150 mm, and this is often not enough to support comfortable temperature in the house in winter due to the thickness of the building walls. Therefore, it is necessary to insulate a log house from the outside, and there are quite a lot of such technologies, as well as modern thermal insulation materials. It is considered an axiom that external insulation is much more effective than internal insulation, and this is true - the dew point moves to a safe place, the amount of condensation decreases, the walls continue to “breathe”, but continue to retain and retain heat in the premises of the house.

Scheme of standard external insulation of working external surfaces of a house

Preparatory work on external walls

Before you start insulating a house made of timber from the outside, you should choose from a range of materials for thermal insulation the one that is optimally suited for a house of a particular design, select the technology for laying it and prepare the surfaces of the walls.

Preparation of wooden beam walls comes down to a visual inspection in order to detect cracks, pockets of mold and rot, peeling of islands of bark, defects in the installation and fastening of doors and windows, etc. Then the walls are caulked or cracks are sealed (if they are found) in another way, for example, they are puttied with a special compound, the walls are treated with an antiseptic and fire-retardant substances. Caulking of the external wall is carried out using one of three well-known special heat insulators, which have proven themselves better than others - tow, flax (flax batting) and jute.

Push the insulation into the cracks with a special wooden spatula with a narrow and thin blade. If you don’t have such a spatula, a metal construction spatula with a blade length of 60, 80 or 120 mm will do.

Caulking of timber walls

There are two ways to caulk the walls: insulating the walls of a log house from the outside, stretched, and laying it in a set.

Stretched thermal insulation of surfaces is done in the presence of narrow gaps, and in a set - wide ones. In the first case, the ventilation facade insulation is stretched along the crack in a thin layer and driven in with caulk and a hammer until the space is completely filled. Laying into a set is carried out by forming balls of insulation from a wooden house to the size of the gap, then tow or jute is driven into the gap in the same way. Thermal insulation of a wooden house always starts from the bottom row.

Choosing thermal insulation material, are based on its operational characteristics:

Thermal conductivity coefficient;
Compressive strength coefficient;
Frost resistance;
The service life indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.

You can choose from the following list:

Fibrous inorganic insulation - glass wool, mineral wool, stone or basalt wool;
Polystyrene foam in slabs and sheets of different densities;
Extruded polystyrene foam (EPP);
Foamed polyethylene (FPE);
Sprayed polyurethane foam (PPU);
Izoplat boards are windproof.

Types of thermal insulation materials for external insulation of a house made of timber

Mineral wool and substitutes

Mineral wool is an excellent thermal insulator, but it is hygroscopic, and this disadvantage makes it a highly specialized material. Or, insulating with mineral wool timber house, it is necessary to create additional layers of steam and waterproofing materials, so using mineral wool is not a cheap pleasure. When choosing to insulate a log house from the outside with your own hands using mineral wool, you should take into account the average annual air humidity in the region and the building materials with which the house is lined on the outside. Another requirement for mineral wool is that the house must have a ventilated façade.

Choose optimal material The table will help:

Styrofoam	Polyurethane foam	Mineral wool	XPS plate
Cellular	Cellular and porous	Fibrous structure	Sealed cellular material
High moisture resistance	High moisture resistance	High moisture resistance	High moisture resistance
Light weight	Light weight	Light weight	Light weight
Density - medium	Density - low	Density - medium	Density - high
	Compressive strength - low	Compressive strength - average	Compressive strength - high
Eco-friendly material	Eco-friendly material, but at temperatures ≥ 500C it evaporates CO2 and CO3	Eco-friendly material	Eco-friendly material
Limited suitability for mechanical stress
Destroys quickly over time	Takes a long time to break down	Durable material	Durable material
Destroyed under the sun	Doesn't break down under the sun	Doesn't break down under the sun	Doesn't break down under the sun

Comparison of materials by thermal conductivity

Foam insulation

Foam is chosen based on its density - high density means low thermal conductivity. The table below will help you correctly navigate the characteristics of polystyrene foam when insulating a wooden house:

A log house can be insulated with any polystyrene foam standard thickness sheet or plate 5 or 10 cm.

Insulation of a log house with polystyrene foam

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam (EPS)

Before you insulate a house made of timber with EPS, think about exceeding the estimate - this thermal insulation material costs much more than polystyrene foam and mineral wool.

EPS is attached to the walls with glue, which should not contain acetone, toluene, water, ethyl acetate and all derivatives of these substances. Therefore, when using this insulation, it is recommended to buy the following glue:

Adhesive foam brand "TechnoNIKOL";
Glue “Ceresit” CT-85;
Adhesive facade composition “Allfix”;
Glue "Bitumast";
Glue “Illbruck PU-010” based on polyurethane;
Adhesive composition "Insta-Stick Universal-145345".

Attaching EPS to wood with glue

Foamed polyethylene NPE

The advantages of NPE over other thermal insulation materials are as follows:

Low thermal conductivity coefficient;
The elasticity and elasticity of the material allows it to be laid on uneven surfaces;
Light weight and low cost.

Foamed polyethylene is produced as insulation high pressure(LDPE) and low (HDPE), the material is foiled with an aluminum layer on one or both sides. IN individual construction The following brands of NPE are most often used:

Insulating harness “Vilaterm”;
Rolled heat insulator in the form of “Thermopol” mats. Mat thickness - 1.5-4 cm;
Roll insulation "Penofol". Has a foil layer on one or both sides.

Foamed polyethylene for log house

When insulating a house with a layer of foamed polyethylene, there is no need to install additional layers of vapor and waterproofing, and this is also a distinctive feature of the material - NPE is non-hygroscopic. And the low cost of foamed polyethylene rolls gives good opportunity save the family budget without losing the quality of work on insulating the house outside.

Izoplat – windproof boards

The manufacturer is Finland, and everyone there knows about frost. Izoplat is made from fibers coniferous trees, without synthetic and harmful additives and additives. Standard sizes products - thickness 12 mm, length - 2700 mm and width - 1200 mm; in terms of heat retention properties, such a 12 mm thick plate is equal to a 44 mm layer of pure wood.

Positive qualities of Izoplat insulation:

Hermetic surface and elasticity, which is why windproof boards cover the walls of the house very tightly;
Thermal conductivity coefficient of Izoplat insulation: λ10 ≤ 0.045 W/m K;
Good vapor permeability allows the building wall to breathe, therefore minimizing the possibility of mold and other fungal diseases;
High moisture resistance due to impregnation of the boards with paraffin;
Noise insulation – 23 dB. For comparison: a three-chamber PVC window has a sound insulation of 47 dB;
With dimensions of 2700 x 1200 x 12 mm and a weight of one plate of 9 kg, quick and easy installation on walls is ensured;
Guaranteed service life - ≥ 50-70 years;
Absolutely environmentally friendly, since the material is natural.

Insulation of external walls of a wooden house with Izoplatom

Basics of insulating a timber house

Wood is a hygroscopic material, so the surface of the walls can be deformed to a fairly large depth. Although profiled laminated veneer lumber is impregnated with moisture-repellent substances, the material absorbs moisture, although in small quantities, but sufficient to cause wall deformations. First of all, deformations manifest themselves in distortions of windows and doors, which have to be additionally insulated or reinstalled.

When insulating a house with Isoplat, you need to create a ventilation gap so that excess moisture comes out of the wood and does not deform it. Then a thermal insulation layer of slabs with decorative cladding made of siding, lining and other similar materials. Therefore, a ventilated facade for timber construction is required.

Scheme of insulation of a timber house "Izoplatom" Methods of attaching "Izoplat" slabs to a wooden surface

The ventilation façade scheme consists of the following layers:

Wall surface;
Wooden or metal sheathing;
Insulation layer;
Vapor barrier;
Ventilation gap;
Decorative protective cladding.

Regardless of the insulation material, be sure to observe the correct layer-by-layer fastening of building materials. And lastly: between the layer of any insulation and the layer of decorative cladding it is necessary to leave an air gap of ≈ 10 mm.

The thermal insulation characteristics of timber with a cross section of 150x150 are not sufficient to ensure comfortable living in a house during the cold winter period. In this regard, the owners of such a building inevitably ask the question: how and with what to insulate the house? According to the rules of heating engineering, external insulation is much more effective than internal insulation. Therefore, first of all, you need to worry about choosing the optimal thermal insulation material for specific conditions, suitable for use outside the house, and find out all the nuances of installation.

At the stage of preparation for external insulation of a wooden building, it is necessary to resolve several issues:

which insulation is better;
how to lay it correctly;
how to prepare the walls of a house.

Regardless of which thermal insulation material is chosen, walls made of 150x150 timber need to be prepared. First of all, it is necessary to conduct a visual inspection and make sure that there are no signs of wood rotting, insects harmful to wood, or the need for additional fastening of timber and finishing elements of window and door openings.

At the same time they decide whether the walls need caulking. If empty cracks are noticed, then they need to be filled with appropriate material before laying the insulation. Caulking walls is a simple, but labor-intensive process. Knowing the rules and tricks of this matter will greatly simplify its implementation.

To eliminate gaps between beams, three materials are traditionally used:

tow;
jute;
flax wool, etc.

In the process of work, craftsmen use special wooden devices in the form of spatulas with a thin blade. But for self-execution An ordinary narrow spatula will do the job.

laying stretched insulation;
laying insulation into the set.

The first is optimal if the gaps are not wide, the second is suitable for deep and long gaps. When caulking, the stretched tow fibers are distributed along the crack in an even thin layer, while driving it into the gap with a spatula. The work must be done slowly and carefully, trying to seal the insulation as efficiently as possible. The tow is driven in layer by layer until the gap is filled.

Laying in a set is done as follows: bunches or balls of tow are formed from the tow, corresponding to the size of the gap, and driven into it using a spatula and a hammer. Regardless of the chosen caulking method, work begins from the bottom of the wall.

Video - How to caulk a house made of timber

Video - Caulking a house made of timber

The choice of material for external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber

The modern market offers many solutions for insulating a wooden house. The choice largely depends on the climatic conditions of the region of residence. For southern latitudes, one insulation will be optimal, for northern latitudes, another. Therefore, when choosing a material, they are guided by its main characteristics:

coefficient of thermal conductivity;
compressive strength indicator;
frost resistance;
service life guaranteed by the manufacturer.

For external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber, the following thermal insulation materials are suitable:

fibrous (glass wool, mineral wool, stone wool, basalt wool);
sheet foam;
extruded polystyrene foam;
foamed polyethylene;
sprayed polyurethane foam;
windproof boards Izoplat.

Mineral wool and its analogues

Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, but has one significant drawback: hygroscopicity. Since wet insulation is not capable of retaining heat efficiently, the use of mineral wool in rolls or slabs requires steam and waterproofing of the walls and foundation of the house. This significantly increases the cost of its external insulation.

When choosing fibrous materials, the following points must be taken into account:

air humidity level in the region of residence;
cladding option external walls building.

The second requirement is due to the fact that laying mineral wool and its analogues requires wall cladding using ventilated facade technology. Therefore, you won’t be able to save on finishing work. If there is any doubt that the mineral wool under the cladding will remain dry, it is better not to use this material.

Prices for mineral wool

Mineral wool

There are many myths regarding this insulation. One of them convinces us that polystyrene foam releases styrene, which is harmful to humans, into the environment. All these claims have long been debunked by laboratory studies. The safety of polystyrene foam is confirmed by the sanitary-epidemiological conclusion 63.01.06.224.P.001216.04.03 dated April 7, 2003, Conclusion 01-188 dated April 25, 2000 by the Research Institute of Hygiene and Health of Children and Adolescents of the Russian Academy of Medical Sciences, Conclusion No. 03/PM8 of the Moscow Research Institute of Hygiene them . F.F. Erisman. Therefore, this insulation can be safely used not only for external, but also for internal insulation.

When choosing polystyrene foam, it is important to pay attention to its density. The higher it is, the lower its thermal conductivity. There is an opinion that the density of polystyrene foam corresponds to the digital indicator of its brand. But this is only partly correct. For example, the density of C-25 foam varies between 15.1-25 kg/m3. The table of its characteristics will provide significant assistance in choosing a material.

For external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber, you can use polystyrene foam of any brand. Manufacturers offer sheets of different thicknesses: 5 cm and 10 cm. When choosing a material, you need to take into account that for facade insulation it is better to buy PSB-S-35 foam plastic 5 cm thick than PSB-S-25 foam plastic 10 cm thick. The cost of these materials almost the same, but the thermal insulation effect will be more significant.

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS)

EPS has almost the same chemical composition as polystyrene foam, but has lower thermal conductivity, higher flexural strength, and lower water absorption. The significant difference in characteristics is due to the production methods of these materials.

EPPS is ideal for external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber. The only disadvantage of this material is its relatively high price. A 2 cm thick extruded polystyrene board is comparable in thermal conductivity to a 3 cm thick sheet of foam plastic and a 4 cm thick layer of mineral wool.

Eps can be glued to the walls of a building, but you need to choose the right adhesive. For styrene-based materials (EPS and foam), the following compounds cannot be used:

based on acetone and any solvents;
petroleum toluene;
water based;
ethyl acetate.

Prices for foam insulation

Foam insulation

This material has long proven in practice its suitability for thermal insulation.

Foamed polyethylene has many advantages. Among them:

low thermal conductivity coefficient;
elasticity;
a light weight;
low cost.

When choosing this material, you should know that it comes in two types: LDPE (high pressure) and HDPE ( low pressure). Products made of foamed polyethylene come with one-sided and double-sided foil.

The most popular are the following:

Materials made from foamed polyethylene are advantageous in that they do not require a vapor and waterproofing layer. This is due to their absolute non-hygroscopicity. Therefore, when covering the external walls of a building with foamed polyethylene, you can save a lot.

Spray polyurethane foam

Sprayed polyurethane foam differs from the above materials not only in the installation method.

It has many other advantages:

extremely low thermal conductivity: 0.023 - 0.03 W/m*K (this is significantly lower than that of mineral wool and foam);
environmentally friendly;
does not require vapor and waterproofing;
there is no need for additional fastening of the heat insulator, as the foam, when applied, firmly adheres to the wall;
when applied, it forms a continuous layer, eliminating the possibility of the appearance of cold bridges.

All this is done by sprayed polyurethane foam. the best material for external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber. The only drawback of this method is its high cost. Spraying polyurethane foam requires not only special equipment and skills to work with it. Therefore, you will have to pay not only for the material, but also for the services of specialists.

Windproof boards Isoplat based on wood fiber

Scandinavian windproof boards are made from softwood fiber and are 100% natural thermal insulation material. No chemical binders, glue or resins are used in their production. In this case, a slab with a thickness of 12 mm is equal in thermal insulation to 44 mm of wood.

The main advantages of Izoplat windproof boards:

Tightness. Due to their elasticity, the slabs fit tightly to the walls, and breaks in the windproof layer are excluded.
Thermal insulation. Will not shrink throughout its entire service life and is guaranteed reliable insulation home during the entire service life. Coefficient. thermal conductivity of the material λ10 ≤ 0.045 W/mK
Vapor permeability. The slab is a “breathable” material, due to which excess moisture leaves the house and mold and mildew do not form in the walls.
Resistance to atmospheric moisture. The stove is impregnated with paraffin, due to which it is not afraid of any precipitation, dampness or temperature changes.
Soundproofing. A windproof board of even minimal thickness will provide sound insulation of about -23 dB.
Simple and quick installation. The size of the slabs is 2700x1200x12 mm, weight is only 9 kg.
Guaranteed service life of more than 50 years. Actual use over 70 years.
Eco-friendly and natural, 100% like wood itself.

Prices for isoplast

Isoplast

Rules for external insulation of a wooden house

The walls of a wooden house are built from a very hygroscopic material. Wood can absorb moisture and at the same time become deformed. Although construction timber has a low humidity coefficient, impact environment inevitably changes this indicator. Therefore, in wooden houses you can observe deformation of the walls. It is insignificant, but inevitably affects the geometric shape of window and door openings.

When externally insulating a house made of 150x150 timber, it is necessary to take into account that a ventilation gap is required through which moisture will escape from the wood. Thus, no harm will be caused to the walls. It is necessary to build a facing layer over the insulation laid on the outside of the building. That's why best technology insulation of a house made of timber - installation of a ventilated facade.

His circuit diagram includes installation of several layers of materials (direction from wall to street):

wall;
lathing (frame);
heat insulator;
vapor barrier membrane;
ventilation gap;
facing material.

Regardless of what kind of insulation is used, it is necessary to follow the order of laying the materials and do not forget that there must be a gap of at least 1 cm wide between the heat insulator and the cladding.

Installation of a ventilated facade, installation of lathing and insulation

Step 1: installation of spacers

To install spacer strips, use bars with a cross section of 20/20 mm or edged board 20-25 mm thick. To fasten wood, nails or wood screws are used. The optimal step is 60-80 cm.

Step 2: installation of vapor barrier membrane

Vapor barrier film is sold in rolls. Laying the canvases begins from the bottom of the wall and gradually moves upward. The vapor barrier is secured with a construction stapler with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

Prices for vapor barrier materials

Vapor barrier material

Step 3: installation of the sheathing

The same material is used as for the installation of the 1st tier: bars or boards, but the thickness of the lumber should be different: 5-10 cm and correspond to the thickness of the selected insulation. Boards (bars) are attached not horizontally, but vertically. It is important to take into account that the distance between the sheathing posts must correspond to the width of the insulation.

Step 4: laying insulation

Mineral wool sheets or foam sheets are placed in the space between the posts of the 2nd tier of the sheathing. They are attached to the wall of the house using plastic dowels with a wide dish-shaped cap.

Step 5: installation of windproof membrane

The windproof film is laid in the same way as the vapor barrier film. It is attached to the sheathing using counter-battens.

Step 6: installation of facing material

The following can be used as finishing material:

metal or vinyl siding;
facade cement-bonded panels;
lining.

Prices for facade panels

Facade panels

High-quality external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber will provide a comfortable microclimate in residential premises and will reduce the cost of heating the building.

Video - How to insulate a house made of timber from the outside

Video - Insulating a house with mineral wool

The peculiarities of the Russian climate - strong winds, heat and frost, rain - one way or another, require home insulation. Let's consider how to insulate a house made of timber in accordance with regulations and heat saving standards.

In general, insulation should begin during the manufacture of the log house, laying the inter-crown seal after each row of logs. Wood is a natural material that dries out and shrinks over time. Therefore, a year later, after the walls of the log house have dried and settled, repeated work on window sealing and thermal insulation is carried out.

Materials

Only natural plant fibers are used, which are not based on any artificial additives. They provide an environmentally friendly atmosphere and do not emit harmful substances And unpleasant odors, isolate sounds well.

All cracks and corners of the building are caulked with sealants made from natural plant fibers.

Auxiliary materials

Experts do not recommend finishing the insulation of a timber house with plaster. The reason is that as a result, the natural ventilation of the wall from the outside is impaired, which makes the wood more susceptible to rot and decay. You need to prepare the following materials for work:

hydrobarrier;
bars for the frame with a width corresponding to the heat insulator;
the insulation itself is mineral wool, polystyrene foam, glass wool in rolls or slabs;
finishing - siding or lining.

It is possible to insulate a house from the inside or outside only after the natural shrinkage of the tree has been completed. This usually occurs within a year of operation.

Classification

Can be made from timber the following materials: swamp moss, jute, made from the shoots of this plant and resistant to rotting; tow made of flax fiber and inter-crown felt. Expanded polystyrene products are best used last, since long-term use of the structure may result in destruction of the layer and the appearance of fumes containing harmful phenolic compounds.

Inter-crown felt is produced in three types: jute inter-crown felt - 90% made of jute, 10% - flax, flax felt (flax batting) made from highly purified flax fiber and flax-jute inter-crown seal - half made of flax fiber, half of jute fiber.

About interior decoration

The insulation for the interior finishing of timber can be almost any kind. The most widely used are mineral wool materials from the manufacturers ROCKWOOL, URSA, ISOVER. It is believed that they have better sound insulation, low thermal conductivity, and low hygroscopicity.

Properties of mineral wool

The fibers of the material are made from basalt, a particularly strong rock. The big advantages of mineral wool are its resistance to mold, fungi, insects, and the ability to withstand temperatures above 1000°C.

In addition, mineral wool fibers have good vapor permeability, which allows vapors to evaporate rather than accumulate in the walls. An important quality of mineral wool is the absence of toxic substances in its composition.

The thickness of the applied insulation slabs depends on the width of the walls of the house itself. For example, for a 150 mm beam it would be correct to use only 5 cm of mineral wool. Thinner slabs are mounted in two continuous layers. The joints must be covered to enhance the heat-saving effect.

Types of mineral wool

URSA mineral wool is a mixture of dolomite (mineral) with quartz sand. Its main advantages are high elasticity and flexibility (facilitate installation) and excellent thermal insulation characteristics (the thermal conductivity coefficient of such insulation is 0.032 W/mK).

For the walls of ventilated facades, the Ursa FACADE material is used in the form of semi-rigid fiberglass slabs, covered with black high-density fiberglass. Additionally, the boards are treated with water-repellent agents. Thanks to all these qualities, there is no need to install windproof films.

ROCKWOOL mineral wool is made from basalt rocks impregnated with a hydrophobic mixture - the chaotic arrangement of mineral fibers ensures high strength. Such material contains a minimal amount of binders. ROCKWOOL is not subject to deformation during operation. It is produced in a variety of forms - rolls, slabs, mats of various thicknesses and areas, which also differ in the degree of rigidity.

ISOVER mineral wool is made from glass fiber and is characterized by excellent heat saving properties, dimensional stability and durability. The upper surface of such plates is covered with fiberglass, so they do not require the use of diffuse membranes. When carrying out two-layer insulation, such material acts as the top layer.

Preparation for use

The thickness of the insulation used depends on what wood the house is built from and what technology is used:

for chopped logs, at least 15 mm of insulator is laid;
for laminated veneer lumber, a layer of 5 to 10 mm is sufficient.

All work on sealing the walls must be carried out simultaneously along the entire crown to avoid distortion of the frame. All cracks must be sealed both inside and outside. Before carrying out work, the log house is carefully inspected, all cracks are identified and caulked. Particular attention is paid to processing the corners of the log house. Window caulking alone is clearly not enough.

Insulation from the inside

After the walls have been sealed, work is carried out to internal thermal insulation dwellings. They consist of laying a layer between the walls and the material for interior decoration. The latter is often used gypsum fiber or drywall. For internal insulation, insulation with a vapor barrier is used, which prevents fumes from permeating it.

Insulating a house made of timber from the inside has the following risks:

wood cracking and condensation may form;
rotting of the log house;
reduction of usable area of the room and deterioration of the interior.

Insulation from outside

The best option for insulating a wooden house would be to create a ventilated facade system with an air gap - the rising currents themselves will remove unnecessary moisture. This system has high heat-protective qualities and ensures dry walls.

It is necessary to pay attention to the sealing of windows and doors, floors, installation of interfloor ceilings and attics. Floor insulation is carried out by laying a layer of waterproofing and heat insulation, on top of which a layer of vapor barrier is placed.

Beginning of work

To begin with, the entire surface of the walls is well treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. After processing, gaps and cracks are eliminated at all joints and between the timber. Gaps are eliminated with polyurethane foam or sealants, which are used when laying a log house. More often it is flax batting, jute fiber or tape tow.

After sealing all the gaps, vertical load-bearing slats are placed on the walls. The distance between them is left slightly smaller than the width of the future insulation material. This is done for easier and tighter entry into the structure.

Laying

Between the supporting rails, starting from the underside of the wall, sealing plates are laid. The slabs are secured using anchor fasteners, with the joints located close to each other and to the edges of the sheathing.

The second frame row of beams is attached in a horizontal direction. In the gaps between them are installed mineral wool slabs. In this case, the upper slabs must overlap the joints of the underlying layer. The second layer of heat insulation is also strengthened with anchors. In addition, the densely elastic structure of fiber boards itself contributes to sufficient reliable installation material between the sheathing beams.

A diffusion membrane is fixed to the surface of the insulation, permeable from inside for steam and air, but completely closed from the outside to wind and external moisture. This layer will perfectly protect the insulator and the wood underneath from adverse weather conditions.

Thermal insulation in regions with high humidity It would be appropriate to supplement it with a vapor barrier film. In this case, the vapor barrier is installed directly on the surface wooden beams walls.

Ventilation layer and finishing

The frame for exterior finishing must be fixed so that there is an air gap between the finishing layer and the heat insulator for ventilation of water vapor. After all, external moisture will inevitably condense on the surface of the insulation, which should be able to evaporate.

External facade finishing is mounted on the frame. This can be lining, siding or panels made of polymers. You can decorate the building with a block house - a polymer that imitates wood with its texture and pattern. It is important to prevent heat loss through other areas - roof, floor, foundation, windows, doors.

Attic, doors and windows

The technology for insulating the attic of a wooden house is as follows:

a vapor barrier layer is laid on the false ceiling of the attic;
insulation is laid on top - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene;
A layer of waterproofing is laid on the insulator and a sheathing of boards is installed.

The ideal option for installing doors and windows is the use of two-chamber metal-plastic or wooden double glazed windows And double doors, as well as the mandatory presence of an entrance vestibule. Finally, before choosing a method of thermal insulation for a log house, it would be correct to make sure that such a procedure is necessary in principle.

Houses made of timber, due to their environmental friendliness, are a popular option for private construction. But although they heat up quickly enough and have good thermal insulation properties, insulation of a log house is an urgent need for most households.

Installation of insulation on the walls of a house made of timber Source nd-prime.by

Differences between old and new technologies

Wooden construction in Rus' is a centuries-old tradition. For centuries, houses were built exclusively from log houses, from massive round and semicircular logs, the thickness of which was sufficient for good thermal insulation. Just like today, the tree dried out over time, and cracks appeared between the logs. But earlier there were other ideas about the beauty of the facade, so ordinary wood moss was used to caulk cracks. It landed in the cracks between the logs and over time reliably filled the entire space between them.

IN modern construction issues of economy come to the fore and force the use of timber, the thickness of which does not always meet the requirements of the developed standards. If the cross-section is insufficient, complete freezing occurs in winter, which means that the walls of the house are not able to retain heat. In addition, over time, the wood begins to dry out, causing heat loss to increase even more.

This is what a timber wall looks like after the wood has dried Source bredmozga.ru

Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation in a log house

Thrifty owners are looking for ways to properly insulate a house made of timber so that they can spend less money on heating in winter. This can be done in two main ways: from the inside and from the outside, and external insulation is preferable for a number of reasons.

Features of insulation from the inside

With internal insulation, the positive effect of heat saving is offset by the disadvantages:

Part of the usable area is inevitably lost due to the installation of a frame under the insulation.
The thermal insulation layer hides the “living” wooden walls and the rooms lose their unique charm.
Due to external winter cooling, unprotected wooden wall the dew point shifts to internal insulation. Condensation occurs, mold appears, and it is difficult to control the condition of the wood.

Video description

What happens to the wall if the insulation is not properly insulated from the inside - in the video:

Insulation of walls from the outside: advantages and disadvantages of the method

Most often they resort to it, keeping in mind the obvious advantages compared to internal insulation:

The usable area of the internal space is preserved;
External works do not change the family's daily routine.
The facade of the house is reliably protected from sudden temperature changes, which extends the life of the building.
Correct selection materials do not disturb the microclimate of the rooms (the house “breathes”).

You can decorate the facade to your liking or improve the appearance if the wood has darkened over time.
If the technology is followed, the wood will be additionally protected from damage.
Ease of monitoring the work of the construction team.

The main disadvantage of external insulation is the need to carry it out good weather– in cold and damp conditions there is no point in doing this.

Three main insulation methods

Any insulation of walls involves attaching a layer of insulation and structures holding it to it. Several methods have been developed for this purpose and each of them has its own advantages and implementation features.

The principle of wall insulation is the creation of an additional protective “pie” Source lestorg32.ru

Hinged ventilated facade

This technology itself was developed as a decoration for the facade of a house, but since the installation procedure involves attaching a layer of mineral wool or a similar material to the wall, this method can be considered as insulation.

Advantages of using ventilated facades:

Long service life (up to 50 years), excellent heat and sound insulation.
Easy to install.
Wide choose facing material of various colors.
The dew point moves outward.

Installation technology:

Pre-treatment of lumber is carried out with compounds that prevent rotting and make the tree unattractive to insects.
A sheathing is attached to the outside of the house, onto which a sheet of hydro- and wind protection is placed. Air circulates freely in the space between the sheathing slats, due to which condensation or moisture that appears in other ways will be removed from the insulation.
The sheathing is leveled with a plumb level.
Next, slats are placed on the sheathing, the distance between which should correspond to the width of the heat insulator. The height of the slats is selected accordingly - for middle zone In Russia it is recommended to use insulation with a thickness of at least 70 mm.

A feature of the ventilated facade is that a gap is left between the insulation and the cladding Source builderclub.com

Insulation mats are placed between the slats, secured with dowels.
Then bars with a thickness of at least 5 cm are additionally stuffed onto the slats so that there is always a gap between the insulation and the cladding.
Cladding (siding) is installed.

Laying insulation under siding.

There are practically no fundamental differences from the previous technology - insulation is also used here and is also used outside decorative coating. But if the very name of the ventilated facade indicates the place of its use, then in any case the entire house is covered with siding.

Installation nuances taking into account the selected material:

The distance between the slats is set equal to the width of the mat if foam or sheet extruded polystyrene foam is selected.
The distance between the slats is set to 10–15 mm less than the width of the mat if mineral wool is used. This must be taken into account when calculating the amount of mineral wool.
According to the technology, wool slabs are mounted by surprise; polymer slabs are placed in cells, the joints are treated with polyurethane foam.
When using mineral wool, a waterproofing layer (diffuse membrane) is additionally installed on top. It is not needed when using fiberglass or polystyrene.

Covering a log house with siding Source stroyfora.ru

Polyurethane foam spraying method

The principle of this technology is clear to anyone who has seen how they work with polyurethane foam. The difference here is that the volumes of material required to create a thermal insulation cushion are much larger, so a spray gun using compressed air from a compressor is used to process polyurethane foam. Advantages of the technology:

Easy to use and high speed application of thermal insulation mixture on large surfaces.
Excellent adhesion (adhesion) to most building materials, long-term preservation of properties.
Environmental friendliness, fire resistance and protection against rotting of the treated surface.

Spraying of insulation can be done on any prepared surface Source keeninsulation.com

Types of insulation

The choice of insulation for outdoor work is quite wide and each of them has distinctive features, which must be taken into account when choosing:

Mineral wool

Available in three varieties - stone (basalt), glass and slag. All have similar properties: fire-resistant, non-flammable, chemical and biological resistance. Other advantages of the material include vapor permeability, environmental friendliness and high sound insulation.

The downside is that cotton wool attracts rodents and does not dry completely when wet.

It all depends on the skills of the builders, but usually insulating the outside of a house with mineral wool is easier to do using mats than rolls - the latter are not always convenient to deploy on vertical walls.

Laying mineral wool slabs in lathing Source remontik.org

Slab styrenes (foam plastic, polyurethane foam)

Polystyrene foam is the cheapest option, lightweight and porous, with low hygroscopicity and excellent thermal insulation. The main disadvantages are considered to be flammability (releases toxins when burned), fragility and instability when exposed to ultraviolet radiation.

Video description

In this video we will take a closer look at insulating a house with polystyrene foam. How safe is polystyrene foam?:

Extruded polystyrene foam

It has a special porous structure, tolerates low temperatures well and is unsuitable for microorganisms. The material is durable, easy to install (slabs), and does not absorb water. Disadvantages: Highly flammable and releases harmful toxins.

Polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam are similar in appearance Source lineyka.net

Ecological sprayed styrene (ecowool and polyurethane foam)

Such insulation materials are expensive due to the method of application; required for processing large surfaces special installation and work experience. For small areas of complex shape (cracks near pipes, windows, between slabs), polyurethane insulation in cylinders is offered.

"Warm" plaster

Light granule mixture complex composition(glass, cement and hydrophobic additives), which is not flammable, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, protects the facade well from moisture and is easily repaired.

Subtleties of insulating timber walls

Insulating a log house from the outside under siding cannot be started whenever you want - before this, the following conditions must be met:

Work on installing insulation can begin only after the log frame has completely shrunk - often this period can be one and a half to two years.
It is prohibited to carry out work if the façade has not been treated with an antiseptic. Ignoring this rule will lead to the appearance of fungus and rot.
Before insulating a house made of timber from the outside, it is necessary to prepare the facade: seal not only wide cracks, but also small cracks. To do this, you can use putty, polyurethane foam or similar materials.
Good thermal insulation timber house requires careful selection of material and calculation of its quantity. It is necessary to consider how the thermal insulation material will be combined with the wood of the timber itself.
To choose the right insulation, you need to take into account the size of the building, the quality of the frame and seams.

Some insulation is installed without lathing Source obustroen.ru

Tools and materials for thermal insulation of buildings

To insulate a house without being distracted by searching for tools and materials, builders need to prepare the following:

bubble or laser building level, you can also use a plumb line;
tape measure, square or metal ruler;
hammer, construction knife or hacksaw, screwdriver;
facade dowels, tape, chalk, polyurethane foam, antiseptic;
dry slats, insulation;
vapor and waterproofing film;
material for final cladding.
sprayer for treating wood with protective compounds

Treating a wooden wall with an antiseptic Source mybesedka.ru

On our website you can find a list of companies providing home insulation services, among the houses presented at the exhibition is Low-Rise Country.

General progress of thermal insulation installation

All steps for insulating a house made of timber using any of the described methods are always schematically the same and are performed in the following sequence:

to ventilate the first layer of insulation, a sheathing of wooden planks is mounted on the wall;
a frame is placed on the sheathing to fix the insulating material
installation of insulation;
installation of additional sheathing and frame (if double insulation is used);
laying an additional layer of heat insulation;
fastening a diffusion membrane, which will provide water and wind protection.
installation facade finishing(lining, siding) with an air gap.

Of course, in the end, insulation will hide the beauty natural material, but the solution here may be to decorate the house with a block house.

In general, the insulation of a house made of timber, carried out according to the rules, will make it possible to save on heating in the future. Despite the apparent simplicity of the entire process, there are enough a large number of pitfalls that will definitely come out during installation. As a result, if you do not have the proper qualifications, then it is better to order the work to be carried out by professionals, because supervising the construction site is much more pleasant than climbing the walls yourself.

Master of Architecture, graduated from Samara State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering. 11 years of experience in design and construction.

Wood, compared to brick or concrete, has higher thermal insulation characteristics, but in cold climates, even a wooden house requires insulation. You can fix the thermal insulation material outside and inside the room with your own hands.

Insulating a log house from the inside allows you to preserve the unique facade made of natural material.

Material selection

To properly insulate a house, you need to choose the right material for wall insulation.

One of important factors is that insulation is carried out indoors, so the requirements for environmental friendliness and safety are more stringent than for insulation outside.

The material must not contain toxic components and cause allergic reactions.

Internal and external insulation of timber

The following materials can be used as the main materials for insulation:

mineral wool;
ecowool;
Styrofoam;
insulation with extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
foamed polyethylene.

When building a house from timber with your own hands, special attention is paid to the origin of raw materials for building materials. If naturalness is important, the most the best option will be used, which is made on the basis of cellulose and allows the walls to “breathe”.

The most commonly used materials include expanded polystyrene (both extruded and foam) and mineral basalt wool. When insulating with penoplex or polystyrene foam, it is important to remember that it deprives the walls of the ability to pass air.

For a normal microclimate in the room, you will have to think about additional ventilation.

When working with your own hands mineral wool need to remember additional measures ah protection. These include protective clothing that covers arms and legs, protective masks, goggles and gloves. The same applies to polyurethane foam.

Preliminary thermal insulation of a timber house

Preliminary insulation of walls

Immediately after construction, wood shrinks, so wooden house for the installation of partitions, interior decoration and insulation begins after a year, when shrinkage is greatest.
Immediately after construction, caulking is performed. For work, jute or linen insulation is used. It is correct to start caulking from the bottom crown and carry out work along the entire perimeter of the walls. If you do the preliminary insulation with your own hands first of one wall and then of the other, the shrinkage of the house may occur unevenly. After a year, the main insulation begins.

Preparatory stage of work

Wall treatment

If you plan to insulate the walls of an existing building, you need to make sure they are in good condition and free from serious defects. It is necessary to check the condition along the entire perimeter of the building. In places where there are significant gaps due to drying out of the wood, it is recommended to caulk the walls again.

After eliminating significant deficiencies, minor irregularities are corrected and the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust. If necessary, antiseptic treatment of walls is applied.

Due to the low resistance of the material to fire, it is also necessary to treat the wood with special compounds that prevent fire - fire retardants.

In damp rooms, to prevent damage to the walls, they are additionally protected with waterproofing compounds.

When insulating with penoplex, you do not need to use additional waterproofing.

Insulation technology

Do-it-yourself wall insulation work is carried out in the following order:

installation of a waterproofing layer;
installation wooden frame for fastening insulation;
heat-insulating material;
vapor barrier film;
finishing.

To increase the thermal insulation characteristics when insulating with penoplex, polystyrene foam or mineral wool, you can apply a layer of “warm” plaster.

This highly effective composition with a thickness of 20 mm can replace 60 mm of ceramic brick or 40 mm of wood.

The waterproofing is rolled out along the perimeter of the walls and secured with a construction stapler. Next, install the sheathing under the insulation:

first, the corners of the house are leveled and L-shaped racks are made;
Next, the sheathing is made of bars with a section of 50 by 50 mm.

The sheathing ball is assigned based on the width of the insulation. When insulating with penoplex or polystyrene foam, the clean distance between the bars should be 60 cm. If mineral wool is used, the distance is reduced to 58 cm for a tight fit to the surface of the boards.

Installation of mineral wool

The material is secured using special anchors. They can be made of plastic or metal. To secure mineral wool, it is recommended to use disc-shaped metal dowels; they will ensure reliable connection of fairly heavy slabs to a vertical surface, since they are characterized by increased strength.

Installation of expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene includes penoplex and polystyrene foam. These materials can be secured using plastic dowels or adhesives. It is important to choose the right adhesive for polystyrene foam. If you plan to carry out work in wet areas, it must be resistant to water. The adhesive composition for walls should not contain the following components:

solvents;
formaldehyde;
gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuel;
aggressive resins.

If this requirement is not met, adhesive composition can destroy the insulation and worsen the thermal protection of the building. It is best to choose those compositions whose packaging indicates the possibility of use for polystyrene foam.

Insulation of floors and roofs

Only 50% of the heat loss of the entire building occurs through the walls.
To ensure maximum thermal protection, you will also need to insulate the following structures:

floors on the ground;
covering the first floor with a cold basement;
attic floor, if there is a cold attic;
roof in the presence of an attic floor.

Insulation is carried out mainly with the same materials as the walls. In the case of mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam, manufacturers produce various products, intended for different types designs. This must be taken into account when choosing a material.

General insulation of the house

Important points when insulating

It must be remembered that all of the above heat insulators, except mineral wool and ecowool, violate natural ventilation rooms because they do not allow air to pass through. To ensure a normal microclimate, the following measures can be taken:

regular ventilation of premises;
forced ventilation device.

If all installation rules are followed and additional measures are taken to ensure normal temperature and humidity conditions in the premises, insulating a house from timber will allow you to significantly save on heating and avoid frequent repairs.