Hello readers! Haven't blogged in a while. The season of installing and adjusting windows before winter has begun. Everyone wants to warm up.
So, many customers are interested in how we fix plastic windows. I will say right away that there is no single fastening.
It all depends on the location of the window. Therefore, we can use anchors or plates. In general, I got tired of answering the same questions and I decided to put them in one article, a link to which will be given to all my new clients.
I hope you find this information useful too. Read, meet.
The choice of fasteners for windows primarily depends on the material of the wall into which you will mount your window:
- Brick;
- Tree;
- Aerated concrete, foam concrete, cinder block;
- Concrete.
Secondly, on the type of construction and installation specifications:
- Loggias;
- Entrance doors;
- Window;
- Stained glass.
How to fix plastic windows. Types of fasteners
1. Anchor or frame dowel. It happens with a diameter of 8 mm, but practice shows that the optimal diameter of the frame dowel is 10 mm. In my opinion, the most reliable and convenient fasteners for windows.
It has different lengths: 72 mm, 92 mm, 112 mm, 132 mm, 152 mm, 182 mm, 202 mm. Used like this:
IN window frame a hole is drilled with a metal drill with a diameter of 10 mm. Then, a hole in the concrete is drilled with a hammer drill, right through the frame.
I consider it optional. Because, as for the dowel cap, there is even a special decorative cap. And the fastening strength in both cases is almost the same.
For each type of window profile, especially the popular one, a certain type of anchor plates is produced. But since, according to the technology, the plates need to be screwed to the window frame, any plates for windows can be used (only for the sake of economy, of course).
By the way, about screwing the plates into the frame. There are so-called crab plates. That is, they cut or snap into the profile.
So, if there is a quarter in the opening, many installers do not screw such plates. The window will not fall out, and this is the most important thing. After all, a quarter holds a window.
It must be said that there are cases (at present less often) when window installers, grossly violating the installation technology, do not use fasteners at all. Just fix the window with wedges and pour mounting foam.
I hope that such cases will pass you by.
3. Wood screws. Used to fasten windows to wood. The cheapest fasteners, and this is probably the only plus.
4. Concrete screw. Used in my opinion only in Europe. I went to the professional store "Krepezh" in St. Petersburg, where you can buy a lot of things, talked with the sellers. They don't have those screws.
How to fix plastic windows in a brick?
Brick is a good building material. But fixing plastic windows into bricks is sometimes problematic. What is the actual difficulty?
If you use a frame dowel, then it is better to drill holes in the frame for this dowel not in advance, but in place.
This is necessary in order to get the anchor directly into the middle of the brick, and not into the mortar between the bricks. So, of course, no one does (I, by the way, too). It's a waste of time after all.
Frame dowel, it is advisable to choose the longest possible length (minimum brick entry 6 - 10 cm). If the brick is hollow, then use the 202nd anchor.
You can use anchor plates in brick if you are sure that the brick is not hollow. But even a solid brick is of poor quality. And it will be very difficult for a non-professional to fix a plate into it.
How to fix plastic windows in a tree?
An ideal option for fixing windows for wood is anchor plates. And no one can convince me of this. Frame houses or timber, only plates.
From my bitter experience I will tell you how I fixed the windows with screws into the upper part of the box in a house made of timber. And there was casing, and a gap of about 4 cm. A year later, the beam began to sit down, and these screws, together with the beam, went straight into the double-glazed windows.
As a result, several double-glazed windows were replaced under warranty. Got into money. After this incident, if I use screws, then only in exceptional cases, and only in the side parts of the window frame.
By the way, even during construction frame houses, professionals do not recommend the use of hardened screws. Wood is a living material and when moving, the screws break, and the nail, for example, bends. The same principle applies to the anchor plate.
Anchor plates for wooden houses good for the following reasons:
- Fast installation;
- Compensates for thermal expansion;
- Do not affect window structures during shrinkage.
How to fix plastic windows in aerated concrete?
The aerated concrete wall is loose. Can be mounted on a frame dowel with a maximum length of 202 mm. This is the easiest and fastest way.
But it is more correct to fix plastic windows on anchor plates through a special dowel for aerated concrete. It's a little longer and more difficult. In addition, you need to buy or have a hex bit in your arsenal.
How to fix plastic windows in concrete?
If you mean concrete good quality, from which, for example, jumpers are made over window openings, then drilling such concrete with a diameter of 10 mm under a frame dowel is difficult, but possible.
In this case, it is better to use anchor plates. But panel and block houses are just more efficient to mount on a frame dowel. It's more reliable and faster.
At the beginning of the article, I said that the choice of fasteners for windows also depends on the type of construction. So I want to talk about such a type as the glazing of loggias and balconies.
As a rule, window fasteners fall into the very edge of the top concrete slab or to the edge of a brick bottom and side wall. Therefore, attaching loggias to the edge of the wall on a frame dowel can be quite dangerous.
Anchor plates, this is a great way out of the situation.
And finally, I would like to say about the big plus of anchors, which is at the same time a minus for anchor plates.
When the window frame is attached to the anchor, at the time of drilling, you set only one vertical plane to the level. And adjust the second vertical plane after inserting the anchor.
During fastening with anchor plates, you will have to set two vertical planes at once and only after that make holes with a puncher. This requires a certain skill and skill.
Plastic window structures are rapidly replacing their wooden counterparts from the market. If you also decide to replace the old windows with more modern designs, you will not hurt to read the instructions for self-installation of new PVC windows. Professional installers charge quite a lot of money for such work. Does it make sense to overpay if you can handle all the tasks yourself?
It is assumed that before starting the installation, you have already decided what size of windows will suit you, what configuration new systems should have, what fittings you will order, etc. Deal with the solution of these issues on your own or with the help of a consultant of the company to which you decide to entrust the manufacture of plastic windows.
Immediately before starting installation, you need to decide whether you will fasten the windows through the frame or use the method that involves the use of special fastening "lugs".
The first option is more common. However, it may seem inconvenient to you for the reason that before starting the installation, you will need to remove the hinged doors from the frame, and remove the double-glazed windows from the deaf doors.
The second option is more convenient for self-installation - you don’t have to disassemble anything, therefore, the risk of damage to the structure and violation of its tightness is minimized.
When choosing the second method, find yourself an intelligent assistant in advance. The window in the assembly weighs quite a lot, and installing it yourself is incredibly difficult.
Preparatory work
Right before the start PVC mounting windows you have to perform a number of important preparatory work.
Site preparation
When ordering windows, specify when they will be delivered to you. Start preparing the site shortly before the delivery of the windows.
First step. Move all furniture and appliances away from the window opening.
Second step. Cover the floor and radiators protective film or thick fabric.
Third step. Organize your workplace so that nothing interferes with you, and everything you need to install the window is at hand.
First step. Remove the sashes and dismantle the double-glazed windows if you prefer the method of fixing through the frame.
To remove the double-glazed window, carefully pry off the fastening bead with a simple chisel and, with a careful blow on the same chisel, snap the fastener out of the groove. First, pull out the vertical fixing glazing beads. Then, in the same order, get rid of the horizontal fasteners.
In order not to get confused in the future, be sure to mark the fasteners. Their size may differ slightly, but even a difference of a fraction of a millimeter will be enough for gaps to appear.
Second step. Tilt the window frame. The double-glazed window will independently come out of the mounting grooves. Carefully place the removed double-glazed window against a wall or other stable surface at an angle.
Third step. Remove the plugs from the canopies of the wings and unscrew the fixing bolts. Next, you need to release the upper part of the swing window sash. To do this, turn the knob "for ventilation". Get the hook located in the lower canopy.
As a result, you will get a “bare” frame with jumpers.
Fourth step. From the inside of the window frame, prepare holes for the anchor. Place holes around the perimeter of the product so that there are at least 3 attachment points on each side, and at least two at the bottom and top.
The diameter of the anchors for fixing windows is 0.8-1 cm. To create holes, use a drill of the same diameter.
If the plastic window is fixed using special "lugs", the disassembly of the structure can be ignored. In such a situation, all preparation comes down to fixing the fasteners from the kit to the frame with screws.
Video - How to remove glass from a PVC window
Window dismantling instructions
First step. Remove or tear out the sashes, depending on the design of the window.
Second step. File the box and frame at several points.
Third step. Pry off each part of the structure with a crowbar and remove the frame from the opening. In some situations, it is more convenient to immediately find two-hundred nails, due to which the window is held, and pull them out.
Fourth step. Remove the heat-insulating and sealing materials that appear under the box.
Fifth step. Dismantle the old slopes with a puncher. If the slopes are in good condition, you can not touch them. At this point, be guided by your plans for the further design of slopes.
Sixth step. Pry and dismantle the old window sill.
Seventh step. Get rid of the cement backing under the window sill and at the bottom of the window opening. A perforator will help you with this.
Eighth step. Collect construction debris in suitable containers and take it to the trash. Take the remains of the dismantled window there.
Ninth step. Align the ends of the opening, clean them of dirt. Prime surfaces.
Tenth step. Relevant only for residents of old wooden houses. Lay waterproofing material around the perimeter of the opening. In some situations, it is required to additionally install a wooden reinforcing box.
If necessary, the dimensions of the opening can be reduced using cement screed. At this point, be guided by the conditions of your particular situation.
Installing and pinning a new window
Proceed with the installation of a pre-prepared window.
First step. Lay special plastic substrates or wooden bars at the bottom of the opening. Select the dimensions of the substrates in such a way that their upper faces are connected in a straight horizontal line.
Substrates are laid in the corners and in the center of the opening.
Second step. Install a “bare” or assembled frame on the substrates, depending on the window installation method you have chosen. The substrates do not need to be dismantled, they will continue to perform their supporting function.
Without substrates, the window can simply fall out. Anchors, no matter how often you check and tighten them, will still loosen under the weight of the structure. Therefore, for additional strengthening of the substrate system, it is necessary to place not only at the bottom, but also along the side faces, closer to the top of the opening.
Third step. Check the horizontal position of the window structure using an ordinary water level.
If deviations are found, add pegs or get rid of unnecessary elements of the substrate.
Fourth step. Check the vertical position of the window. The detected deviations are eliminated in the same way as in the previous step.
Fifth step. Proceed to fixing the window with anchors in accordance with the chosen method of fixing.
Fastening by the method "through the frame"
First step. Take a puncher and directly through the holes prepared in advance in the frame, drill similar holes for fasteners in the wall.
Second step. Fasten the lower part of the structure from two sides. To do this, you need to insert and fix the anchor, but you do not need to immediately complete the fastening to the end.
Third step. Make sure the window is vertical. Immediately correct the deviations according to the pattern already familiar to you. If everything is fine, drill holes in the center and top of the window frame with a puncher. Insert and tighten the anchor. Information about required quantity fasteners were given earlier.
Fourth step. Recheck the window for evenness. Get rid of deviations immediately if they are found.
Fifth step. Tighten the anchor all the way. Do not overtighten them, as the frame can be deformed from excessive tension.
Video - How to install a PVC window
Plate fastening
In this case, special plates will be used to fix the window. They are placed on one or two sides of the window block. The plates are made of thick metal and look like "ears". In such elements, holes for anchors are initially provided.
With this mounting method, you need to bend the mounting plate into a step. The "ear" of the plate should fit as closely as possible to the wall surface. The second part of the plate is bolted to the frame.
Fastening is carried out with the same anchors. The window is fixed in the same order: bottom first, then top and middle. At each stage of installation, be sure to check the evenness of the placement of the structure. Without respect for the vertical and horizontal levels, your window simply deforms over time.
Assembly and final check of the window
After fixing all the anchors, proceed to the assembly of the window, if you originally disassembled it. The process is performed in the reverse order of disassembly.
First step. Insert the double-glazed windows into the window frame and fix them with glazing beads, first at the top, then at the bottom, and finally on the sides. A rubber mallet will help you snap the glazing beads.
Second step. Hang back and fix the swing sashes accordingly. Follow the reverse order of dismantling them.
Make sure the flaps move normally. In the normal state, the sash does not make any unauthorized movements when it is opened 45 degrees and 90 degrees.
Third step. Complete the check and seal existing gaps between the walls and the newly installed window. Fill the gaps with special mounting foam in cylinders.
On this, the main work on the installation of PVC windows by hand is considered completed. In the end, you just have to install a plumb line, window sill, mosquito net and make slopes at your discretion.
Installing a window sill (Read the article about installing a window sill with your own hands). Wetting with water. Dedusting
Installing the window sill Laying out the cement mortar
Window sill installation. Wetting with water. Dedusting
Window sill installation. Alignment. Grout
Window sill installation. Drying
Window sill installation. Finished work
Successful installation work!
The technology of installing plastic windows in brick house differs from the rules for installing PVC profile products in concrete or panel walls. It is important to understand these differences before starting installation work and avoid mistakes.
Installation of plastic windows requires a set of tools and consumables.
Plastic windows in a brick house can be installed on anchor plates or bolts. Their dimension depends on the depth of the quarters into which the product will be attached, as well as the quality of the brick from which the walls are laid. It can be gas silicate, foam concrete, etc.
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkRy0THGINA
If the installation is carried out in a secondary housing stock, before installing the window, you must first remove the old frame from the opening. This will require:
- removing sashes from hinges;
- removal of the old;
- dismantling of the window sill and low tide;
- removal of roofing felts and tow, once used to insulate the opening;
- beating old plaster, if necessary, alignment of the geometry of the opening.
Required for dismantling small size crowbar. If the frames are massive enough, then to facilitate the scrapping process, you can use hand saw on wood or with a jigsaw.
To drill holes for fasteners, you need a puncher, to fasten the frame to the anchor - a screwdriver. You will also need a construction knife with replaceable blades, level, good quality construction pistols for foam and sealant.
What materials are needed to install a plastic window?
Installation of plastic windows is a multi-stage process. At each stage, it is necessary to use various consumables:
- mounting wedges;
- professional foam;
- PSUL or acrylic sealant;
- waterproofing tapes;
- anchor plates or bolts.
- cyacrine;
- sealant.
Mounting wedges are needed to level the level, if necessary, they are placed under the stand profile.
Mounting foam — insulating material to fill the installation seam, i.e.
space between wall and window frame. Professional pistol foam must comply with temperature regime season in which installation is planned plastic window.
PSUL (pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape) is glued around the perimeter of the window frame and expands from the street side of the seam - from the edge of the frame to a quarter. It looks like gray foam. If there are no quarters, a special acrylic sealant will be required.
A waterproofing tape made of membrane material is placed under the ebb for ventilation and protection of the bottom seam from moisture.
Sealant is needed to fill the seams where the window sill adjoins the slopes and the window frame.
How to fix a window in an opening?
The rules for installing plastic windows are explained in detail by GOST R 52749-2007 “Mounting window seams with vapor-permeable self-expanding tapes. Specifications". This state standard prescribes that before you start installing a window in an opening, stick a PSUL around its perimeter.
This self-expanding material is self-assembly ny layer that cannot be covered with plaster, putty, paint over. Otherwise, the insulating material will not perform its functions.
When inserting the frame into the window opening, you should adhere to the tolerances. The deviation of the window frame in the horizontal and vertical plane should be no more than 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, but not more than 3 mm for the entire height of the window.
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4zdj8hP5As
The frame is attached to brick wall By the following rules:
- from inner corner frame to the first fastener vertical distance should not exceed 150-180 mm;
- from the impost to the fastener horizontally, this distance is recommended at 120-180 mm;
- vertical anchors - with a gap of 700 mm for white plastic windows and 600 mm for laminated profiles.
The inserted block must be checked for deviation from the level and foamed around the perimeter.
Assembly seam device
PSUL along the perimeter and foam insulation are only 2 parts of the three-layer filling of the assembly seam described by GOST.
After foaming the frame, it is necessary to remove the installation wedges from under the support profile and fill the voids with foam. For better adhesion, the inner surface of the window opening can be moistened with a spray before foaming.
Before installing the outflow from the outside, a waterproof vapor-permeable tape should be glued. The ebb is screwed to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The edges of the tide must be bent to the outer slopes to avoid moisture getting under it.
On the inner side of the window along the perimeter (except for the lower horizontal part of the frame) a vapor barrier is glued, which provides an additional sealing layer to the mounting joint and isolates it from moisture. Such a tape is produced in various widths and can be glued both under wet finishing of slopes (plaster) and under dry (slopes made of expanded polystyrene or plastic). Issue and universal tapes under slopes.
A vapor barrier is also installed under the window sill: a full-butyl tape with a foil layer.
We collect the installed window
The frame installed in the opening and foamed around the perimeter must be assembled.
Double-glazed windows are inserted into the deaf, non-opening parts. To fix (fix) the installed double-glazed window, you will need a medium-sized Plexiglas hammer. The glazing beads are cut at an angle of 45° and inserted into the frame along the perimeter of the double-glazed window with some effort. In order for the glazing bead to finally snap into place, it must be lightly knocked out with a hammer.
If installed window block has opening doors, you need to hang them on the hinges. It is not difficult to cope with this task, since modern window fittings are very easy to operate.
But putting the sash in place is not enough. You should check its performance and, if necessary, adjust it in the hinge part using a special adjusting key.
To check how accurately the level of the plastic window is, you need to open the sash. If by inertia it does not slam shut or open wider, then the block is installed correctly.
Installing window sills and slopes
The installation of wooden windows, like plastic ones, cannot be considered complete if a window sill is not installed. The window sill is snapped into place and attached to the support profile.
If voids under the window are found during dismantling, you can fill them with insulation, for example, rolled or tiled, and then install a window sill.
For final finishing opening you need to understand how to properly install the slopes. They can be plastered or assembled from expanded polystyrene sandwich panels.
With the latter option, the panels are cut to size in place, taking into account the geometry of each slope. A U-shaped plastic profile is screwed to the frame close to the slopes, otherwise called the starting one. A panel is inserted into it. The voids are foaming.
Foam is a sealant made of polyurethane foam, which, due to its properties, takes a certain time to fully expand and harden. Typically 1 to 24 hours.
In places where they adjoin the wall, sandwich panels are closed with a decorative profile, most often of an F-shape.
The junctions of the slopes and the frame to the window sill are sealed with sealant.
Who is responsible for window installation?
Mount PVC profile window and install wooden window— is not the same thing. Installing windows in a brick house is associated with certain nuances. Required to have all essential tool, including adjusting keys for window fittings, as well as a supply of fasteners and special mounting tapes.
It is equally important to choose the right mounting foam and sealant. As an alternative to the latter, one can use the so-called liquid plastic. This is a special adhesive-sealant that hardens very quickly, but also creates a particularly strong sealed seam.
If you are not sure that you can handle the installation yourself, it is better to enlist the help of specialists.
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMBqdgWXysU
In this article I will tell you in detail how to install plastic windows with your own hands. I will give a semblance of instructions for installing windows, which includes dismantling the old window and all the subtleties of how to properly install plastic windows in an old or new window opening.
Does it make sense to install plastic windows with your own hands
I will say right away that there is nothing complicated about how to install a plastic window yourself. It does not require special skills or expensive professional equipment. The technology for installing plastic windows is quite simple and consists of dismantling the old window and installing a new one. In terms of time, the dismantling of the old window takes from 30 to 90 minutes, and the installation of a new plastic window in its place takes an average of 2 hours (the average window is up to 2x2 m in size). In total, it will take you 2.5-3.5 hours to replace one window. Agree, it's not much. So, if you wish, approximately in one weekend, you can replace the windows yourself with your own hands, changing 2-3 windows a day. Savings in this case will be about $ 40-60 per window. This is how much window replacement services cost today. Sometimes the installation price is set as a percentage of the cost of new windows and ranges from 10 to 40% of the cost of new metal-plastic windows in different regions and companies. The dismantling of the old window and the delivery of a new one, as well as the finishing of the slopes, if you order the installation of new windows from them, are most often done free of charge.
If you still decide to entrust the installation of windows to builders, then below I will list the guarantees that you have the right to demand:
- if you buy windows yourself not from an installation company, then you can only be guaranteed for: seams, their filling (with foam, silicone), verticality and horizontality of the corresponding parts and window performance for about a year after installation;
- if you buy windows in the same place where you order installation work, then you will also be provided with a guarantee for fittings, on average it is 1 year, a maximum of 3-5 years for elite expensive windows.
When installing windows with your own hands, you have the right to demand a guarantee for fittings from the organization where you buy the windows. And the responsibility for the seams and their filling remains on you.
I will say one thing for sure, if you have one free weekend, hard work and a desire to save money, then following the recommendations that I will describe below, you will be able to replace the windows in your house no worse than any installation team. Moreover, the word "team" is applicable to the installation of windows, very conditional. Since, in fact, the installation is performed by 1 person, and another one simply supplies tools and holds the window at the right time.
Correct measurement of a plastic window
To order plastic windows from the seller, you need to make preliminary measurements.
To do this, you must first determine what kind of window opening you have - with or without a quarter. For clarity, in the figure below I show a schematic view of the opening with a quarter (A) and without (B).
Scheme of a window opening with a quarter and without a quarter
We measure windows without a quarter
Installation of windows without a quarter is as follows. If your house is new, then the windows are mounted in an empty window opening. And in order to order a window, you need to subtract 5 cm from the size of the opening vertically - this will be the height of your window. And subtract 3 cm from the size of the opening horizontally - this will be the width of your window. Subsequently, when installing the window yourself, these 3 cm will be filled with mounting foam (1.5 cm on each side of the window). And 5 cm is 1.5 cm from the top of the window for filling with mounting foam and 3.5 cm for the window sill under the window.
You also need to make measurements of the length and width of the window sill and the outer ebb and add at least 5 cm to these dimensions so that the window sill “cuts” a little on the right and left into the wall. For an inexperienced installer - you can take 20-30 cm in reserve, the excess is cut off during installation. In general, window sills and ebbs come in unified widths (10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 cm) and lengths (up to 6 m), but you, in any case, must provide minimum dimensions to bring you the most suitable window sill and outflow from available.
We measure windows with a quarter
We measure the size of the window opening horizontally between the quarters at the narrowest point. Add 3 cm to this size (1.5 cm on each side of the window). This will be the width of our window. And vertically, we simply measure the distance from the bottom of the opening to the upper quarter, do not add or subtract anything to it. This will be the vertical size of our window. We measure the window sill and the ebb in the same way as in the version of the opening without a quarter.
Thus, we get 6 sizes:
- window height;
- window width;
- window sill length;
- window sill width;
- tide length;
- tide width.
Plastic window dimensions
If your house is not new, and an old window is still installed in the window opening, then measurements are made in the same way. Only for the window opening, you take the outer dimensions of the window frame, as it will need to be dismantled.
When ordering a window, be sure to specify whether the kit includes:
- windowsill;
- plugs are intended for plastic window sills. When ordering them, you need to tell us what the width of the window sill will be (overhang from the wall). There are 300 and 600 mm, but this is a total length, this includes two ends on one leg, and if, for example, the total length of the overhangs does not exceed 300 mm, then a plug will suit you - a 300 mm plug;
- installation profile (aka - installation profile, sweet clover, heel, window sill profile, etc.);
- fasteners for windows - anchor plates.
If not, they must be ordered separately.
Also, when ordering a window, in addition to its size, you will also be asked for such important characteristics as:
- window profile type: 3, 4 or 5-chamber;
- type of double-glazed window: 1, 2, 3-chamber;
- window opening method: blind, with opening, tilt-and-turn with ventilation, tilt-and-turn with ventilation and micro-ventilation.
Methods for installing plastic windows, their pros and cons
To date, there are two ways to install metal-plastic windows: installation of windows with unpacking and installation without unpacking the window.
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Scheme of the device of a plastic window
So, the window installation method with unpacking involves preliminary disassembly of the window: glazing beads are removed, double-glazed windows are removed from the frame and set aside for the duration of the window frame installation, then the frame is attached to the wall through dowels, after which double-glazed windows and glazing beads are installed back.
Installing a window with "unpacking"
Installation without unpacking does not require the removal of double-glazed windows and glazing beads, since the frame is attached to the wall not through, but with the help of pre-fixed on it outer surface fasteners.
Installing a window without "unpacking"
At the same time, the method of installing a window with unpacking has several disadvantages.
For example, installation with unpacking sometimes leads to fogging of the double-glazed window during operation. Removal and re-installation of glazing beads, especially without such experience, often affects their appearance (visible scratches, chips). Double-glazed windows during the installation of windows must be placed in a place that is safe for their integrity, otherwise they can be accidentally broken, especially if left near the installation site. The installation method itself is more laborious and takes longer than installation without unpacking (on average, installation of each window will take 30 minutes longer, and if you install plastic windows for the first time, then about 60 minutes).
Installation of plastic windows without unpacking is devoid of the above disadvantages, since the double-glazed window does not need to be removed from the frame.
Now, as for the strength of the attachment. The unpacking method is considered more durable, especially if the frame is fixed through to the wall with large long anchors. Therefore, it is worth stopping if:
- Are you planning to install windows on the 15th floor? high-rise building and higher. On such high floors, there is a lot of sail and gusts of wind, especially if the house borders on lower buildings. Below 15 floors, windows can not be unpacked.
- If your windows are very large (2x2 m or more), then it is better to choose the method of fastening with unpacking or combined. Balcony block can be fixed without unpacking.
In private houses, where windows are usually installed in standard medium sizes, and the number of floors rarely exceeds 4 floors, of course, it is better to choose the method of installing metal-plastic windows without unpacking. Fastening strength without unpacking will be more than enough.
And given that our site is devoted to private construction, then we will analyze in detail a method of fixing a plastic window that is more suitable for low-rise construction - without unpacking.
window installation tool
- screwdriver;
- level;
- foam gun;
- polyurethane foam at the rate of 1-3 cylinders per 1 window (it is difficult to say exactly, as it depends on the size of the window and the filling of the cylinder);
- perforator;
- silicone gun;
- set of hexagons;
- jigsaw;
- stationery knife;
- pencil;
- roulette.
The sequence of installation of plastic windows
In order to understand how to install the window correctly, - to I will briefly list the main stages of installation, after which we will dwell on the main stages in detail:
- we dismantle the old window (with it a window sill, if necessary);
- preparing a new plastic window to installation;
- we apply markings on the window frame in the places of subsequent fastening;
- fasten fasteners to the window frame;
- we make recesses in the window opening in places where fasteners will be attached;
- set the plastic window according to the level;
- fasten the window to the window opening;
- we fix the ebb (it can also be mounted at the very end);
- pre-adjust window fittings;
- we foam the gaps between the frame and the window opening;
- install a window sill;
- We carry out the final adjustment of window fittings.
Dismantling the old window
- On deaf windows, we take out the glazing beads, then the glass. On opening windows, remove the sashes from the hinges. If the windows in the sashes are held firmly, then the sashes can be removed directly with them. If the windows are very old, the frames are movable diagonally, then for safety reasons it is better to remove the glass from the sashes beforehand.
- We make cuts in several places of the frame. For this it is better to use ordinary saw. Sometimes for such purposes they use a grinder with a circle on concrete (there will be a lot of smoke). Very important! In this case, it is categorically impossible to cut with an ordinary circle for metal, since it can jam, or even break. And given that the disk spins at an average speed of about 7000 revolutions per minute, this is very, very dangerous. It is also categorically impossible to insert a disk with teeth on a tree into a grinder.
Making cuts when dismantling an old window wooden frame
Then, in parts, we take it out with a crowbar, a puncher with a “shovel” nozzle or other improvised tools.
Dismantling an old wooden frame with a puncher and scrap
Sometimes a wooden frame is left if it is in good condition. But it is better to dismantle it and attach it to the wall material. Then the size of the light window will be larger, and the fastening will be more reliable than to wood, and the wooden frame will not rot over time.
- We dismantle the old window sill. If it is wooden, then we deal with it in the same way as with wooden frame: make a cut and take it out in parts with a crowbar. If it is concrete, then we break it with a jackhammer, if there is such a tool, if not, then with a hammer and a crowbar or, again, a grinder with a circle on concrete. If your window sills are concrete, in good condition, and they suit you, then you can leave them. But it is important to remember that the plastic window sill is "warmer". Also, if you leave the old window sill, then there is almost always a large gap between it and the window frame, and even if it is sealed with a mixture using a mesh, then cracks are inevitable. The way out, in this case, is one - to seal the window sill on top with tiles.
- We clean the window opening from debris and dust.
Preparing a plastic window for installation
If the window is openable (not blind), then during installation, the window must be in the closed position. This is very important, because if the window is open, for example, for ventilation, then the foam with which we will later fill the space between the frame and the window opening will bend the frame in a semicircle. In the closed position, the window must be at least 12 hours after foaming. Then you can open. In order for the window to be definitely closed, it is advisable not to install the handle until the window is installed. Otherwise, one of your household members will be able to unknowingly open the window when you leave for a couple of minutes. If there is no handle, then there will simply be nothing to worry about.
Do not remove the protective tape from the window surface until the end of the window installation process, and if you finish the slopes, then until the finishing work is completed.
Installing a plastic window
- We apply markings on the window frame in the places of subsequent fastening. Fastening is carried out from all 4 sides of the window frame every 70 cm. Sometimes they are fastened less often, but we do not recommend more than 100 cm. The indentation of the extreme fastener from the corner of the window frame is usually done in the range of 5-15 cm.The only thing is that you can not attach the frame from below if you have a window with a support profile.
Scheme and photo of the appearance of the stand profile
- We fasten fasteners to the window frame. Fasteners are attached to the window frame in such a way that the self-tapping screw is fixed in the metal located inside the frame (metal bent channel). For this, it is better to take special self-tapping screws - for metal (diameter 4 mm). They come immediately with a drill on the end. If you use ordinary screws, then first you need to make a hole in the frame with a drill with a diameter of 4 mm (4-5 cm long), and only then you can fix fastener using a standard self-tapping screw with a diameter of 5 mm.If the windows are large (2x2 m or more), then the drill is 8 mm in diameter, and the self-tapping screw is 12 mm in diameter.Special anchor plates can be used as fasteners. Sometimes they are also attached to U-shaped drywall hangers.
Fasteners for mounting a window in a window opening
But their cost is approximately the same - from $ 0.05 (when buying in bulk) to $ 0.15, and the thickness of the metal, at the same time, is often different: the anchor plate usually comes in a thickness of 1.1-1.5 mm, and the U-shaped suspension from 0.5 to 1 mm. The thicker the metal, the better.
Fasteners for a plastic window, made of U-shaped suspensions
- We make recesses in the window opening in the places where the fasteners will be attached. To do this, we insert the frame with fasteners already fixed to its surface into the window opening. In those places where the fasteners will be attached to the opening, we knock out recesses according to the size of the fastener and to a depth of 2-4 cm (to the wall - brick or stone). We will drown the fasteners in them. We do this so that later it will be easier to finish the slopes. No need to throw an extra layer of plaster to hide the fasteners.
Recesses knocked out in the window opening for fasteners
Important: if you have a window without a mounting plate, then inserting it into the opening, you need to raise it to the height of the window sill, so that later the window sill can be brought under the frame, and not fastened to the joint with the window frame. To do this, place blocks of wood, pieces of foam or bricks under the frame. If the window is with a mounting plate, then this is not necessary. The mounting plate just raises the window frame to the height of the window sill. It is not necessary to fasten the mounting plate to the frame, it is usually supplied already fixed.
- Set the window to level. To do this, in the right places we put under the frame, for example, wooden wedges (bars right size). Wedges are always located strictly under transverse parts frames: under the horizontal part along the vertical line, and vice versa. We expose the wedges in the following sequence: First, the bottom two, which will set the lower edge and, accordingly, the upper one into the horizon.At this stage, it is convenient to temporarily fix the top anchor plate so that the window does not dangle. Then two on top, which will secure the frame up and down. And only then, the remaining wedges to the left and right, and always on both sides and from the bottom and top of the window. If there is an impost, then it is also necessary to wedge it, and it is also necessary to control that everything vertical racks were on the same plane. The installation of wedges takes the longest time in the installation. As a result, the frame should be set exactly both vertically and horizontally. This work is easier to do together: one holds the window, the other puts wedges under the frame.
Installing a window by level
- Fasten the window to the window opening. After the window is perfectly aligned with us, we can finally fix it in the window opening. Windows are usually fixed with dowels, sometimes with anchors. Anchoring is considered more durable, but also more expensive. So here the choice is yours. I will say one thing - a dowel hammered into concrete can withstand a load of 60 kilograms. So in this case, as for me, it is more than enough. Dowels are used with a diameter of 6-8 mm, a length of 75-80 mm. For fastening to wall materials such as hollow brick, shell rock and foam concrete, anchors with a diameter of 6-8 mm are used. For fastening to a tree - self-tapping screws with a diameter of 8 mm.
- We fix the ebb (it can also be mounted at the very end). It is advisable to install the ebb under the window to prevent water seepage at the junction of the ebb with the window frame. But if it is not possible to fix the ebb under the frame, then we attach the ebb to the window frame with self-tapping screws for metal with a diameter of 4 mm, a length of 9 mm.
- Pre-adjust window fittings. Windows are adjusted using hexagons in the area of window hinges. As a result, the sash should open and close freely without touching the rest of the window. Plus, if you open the sash, then it should not close itself (as it usually happens with the refrigerator door) or open, but should remain in the position in which you left it. Sometimes a window, when closing / opening, can strike at the places where the locking fittings are installed. To fix this, you just need to unscrew the screw on this element and move the element itself 0.5-1 cm higher or lower.
- We foam the gaps between the frame and the window opening.
Filling the space between the frame and the window opening with building foam
It is very important here that the filling be 100%, without voids and interruptions. At the same time, if the gap between the window and the opening is more than 2 cm, then it is desirable to foam several times with a break of 1-2 hours. Then the expansion of the foam is not a "disastrous" factor. And saves foam that would have to be cut off. If windows are installed at a temperature lower than +5 degrees, then winter or all-season mounting foam should be used. If the temperature is above + 5 degrees, then the usual summer polyurethane foam will do.
After the foam hardens, it must be covered from ultraviolet radiation. Since this can already be called part of the slope finishing work, this work can be postponed until the slope finishing. But if you do not plan to finish them at all, or, if you plan, but later than in a month, then it is better to close the foam immediately, since under the open rays of the sun the foam will become unusable. We close it either with a strong cement-sand mortar (cement: sand - 1: 2), or with tile glue (for example, Ceresit SM 11), or else special tape PSUL(vapor-permeable self-expanding sealing tape). The only thing is that the tape is quite expensive (about $3 per m.p.), so the first two options are used more often.
Window sill installation
- Usually window sills come in standard lengths and widths, i.e. with a margin in length and width. So it needs to be trimmed first. To do this, you can use an electric jigsaw, grinder, saw with small teeth.
Trimming the window sill to the desired level
- Then we move the window sill to the stand profile (it should be). Then we set the window sill to a level, placing wooden blocks, pieces of eps, bricks or even laminate trimmings under it.
Installing a window sill by level
It is better to install the plugs so that they go into the wall. And it is advisable to stick them with super glue, since acrylic and silicone do not stick them.
As a result, your window sill should be level in two horizontal directions and not sag anywhere (check by pressing with your hand). Sometimes the window sill is installed with a slight slope "from the window". This is done so that the condensate that may form on the window does not flow under the window. And if you do such a slope, then it is very small, only about 3 degrees.
Load plastic window sill heavy object
If the window sill is not loaded, then the foam will bend it up.
Blowing construction foam cavity under a plastic window sill
- 24 hours after foaming, the remaining foam protruding from the cavity under the windowsill is cut off with an ordinary clerical knife.
- Sometimes, due to the unevenness of the window sill, after its installation, a small gap remains between the top of the window sill and the window frame. It needs to be filled with silicone. Wipe off silicone residue immediately with a rag. But given that silicone sometimes blackens with time from a fungus, and spoils appearance windows and window sills, it is better to prevent the appearance of such a gap. This can be done by screwing Z-shaped galvanized plates to the window sill profile before installing the window sill. Having rehearsed with trimming the window sill, you can achieve a snug fit of the window sill. Also, such plates simplify the exposure of the window sill.
Z-shaped plates made of galvanized steel for setting a snug fit between the window and the frame
Final window adjustment
Now you can screw the handle to the window and remove the protective tape from its surface. If the slopes are still to be finished, then it is better to remove the protective tape after they have been finished.
The most common mistakes when installing windows
There are few of them, but all of them ultimately affect the life of the window, as well as the convenience of its operation:
- The window is mounted with glazing beads outward. Such a mistake leads to the fact that you can easily and silently enter the house by simply removing the glazing beads from the window and removing the double-glazed windows.
- The window is not level. As a result, the window does not open and close properly.
- The mounting foam is not covered with anything and left open under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. As a result, the foam becomes unusable.
Open mounting foam
- They take measurements incorrectly, or simply fix the window low, and as a result, the window sill does not fit under the window. It has to be attached to the window frame.
- The window is not fixed with anything, simply by blowing out the space between the window frame and the opening with mounting foam. If the opening is with a quarter, then this leads, at most, to the appearance of cracks on the slopes, since the “foam” mount cannot even be called a mount. Such a connection is mobile, especially over time. If the window is without a quarter, then as a result the window may simply fall out, I am personally familiar with one such example. So it's important to remember - foam is not a fastener. The window must withstand loads and without foam.
I hope that this article will help you save money on installing plastic windows in your house, as well as do this simple job correctly and without errors so that your windows serve you for a long time. If you decide to turn to the services of an installation organization, then it will be easier for you to understand what the builders do at each stage of installation, which will allow you to control the process competently.
Note: All prices are for 2011.
Today, the owners of houses and apartments are massively replacing old wooden windows with practical and durable PVC structures. And this choice is justified for a number of reasons:
- Due to the increased thermal insulation, material costs for heating are significantly reduced.
- high functionality and modern materials allow you to refuse additional work for window maintenance: tinting frames to give them an aesthetic appearance; caulking cracks for window insulation for the winter; release of the window from the insulation in the spring; pulling gauze on the sashes to protect against mosquitoes and other midges and other work that is implied during the operation of wooden window structures.
- Sealed double-glazed window well isolates the room from noise, allowing you to save home comfort and protecting the peace of the owners.
- Designs have a long service life while maintaining impeccable functionality and aesthetic appearance.
- The cost of a plastic window is lower than a similar wood product. For example, the price of an unpainted double wooden frame without glass measuring 120x90 cm is 3,600 rubles, and a plastic window is 5,500 rubles. However, a wooden window will still need to be glazed and painted, and these are additional costs of time and materials. Whereas the plastic window is already ready for installation.
Those who are going to take up the installation of plastic windows with their own hands often lack basic knowledge of how to do it correctly. Therefore, we present this article here in the form of instructions to help owners who want to do the installation themselves.
Installing plastic windows has a number of nuances. For example, PVC windows are not so universal designs. And their use has a number of limitations. So, it is not recommended to use plastic windows in cold rooms without heating (verandas, canopies, attics, garages, baths, etc.). Incidentally, window manufacturing and installation companies prefer not to talk about this. In addition, problems may arise when installing PVC window profiles in multi-storey buildings above the 4th floor.
When choosing a contractor to replace windows in a house, you may encounter the fact that the masters simply will not delve into the intricacies of this issue. Those who are in control of the situation and can cover it comprehensively are few.
To begin with, let's try to deal with the question, does it even make sense to install PVC windows with your own hands? Contrary to popular belief, installing windows is not that difficult. You don't need to stock up to do it. professional equipment and develop special experience over a long period of time. The installation procedure itself consists of two stages:
- dismantling of the old structure;
- installation of a new plastic window.
Usually, dismantling takes from 0.5 to 1.5 hours. Direct installation of the window (we take an average window measuring 2x2 m) will take another couple of hours. It turns out that to replace one window, it will take a maximum of three and a half hours. Therefore, for Saturday-Sunday, you can freely change at least 2 windows without resorting to the help of specialists. Considering that installers charge $40-60 for each window installation, we get quite good savings. Some companies set the cost of installation as a percentage of the cost of windows. For different specialists, this amount varies and is about 10-40% of the price that is proposed to be paid for windows. Also, specialized companies, when ordering windows from them, can deliver free of charge. new design to your home and dismantling.
Trusting the installation of windows to specialists, you can demand the following guarantees:
- when buying windows from a third-party company, installers provide a guarantee only for installation seams and their filling, the correct geometry individual elements and functionality of the window structure within 1 year after the work performed. Since self-assembly practically deprives you of the warranty for window structures, you need to be more careful in choosing products. It is better to prefer windows made at the factory, in compliance with all technical requirements and conditions. Handicraft products are a “pig in a poke”, the quality and functionality of which can bring an unpleasant surprise. In this regard, for the purchase of window structures, it is advisable to contact directly production company operating in the market long time and has good reviews from numerous customers. By the way, if you order windows in winter or spring (i.e. out of season), you can get a significant discount;
- when purchasing windows from a company that carries out installation work, the customer receives a guarantee for fittings - from one to 5 years (the more expensive the windows, the usually longer term guarantees);
- if the windows are installed with your own hands, then the guarantee for fittings must be requested at the place of purchase of the structures. You will have to take full responsibility for the quality of the seams.
Installation of pvc windows with your own hands should be done if available:
- a couple of free days (as an option - days off);
- diligence and desire to learn something new;
- desire to save.
If all of the above is present, then the recommendations outlined in this article will allow you to successfully replace the windows in the house, making it no worse than a professional installation team. Actually, a whole team is not required to install the window; two people will be enough, one of whom will perform the installation, and the other will hold the structure and serve the right tools. Despite the apparent complexity, self-installation of PVC windows is a fairly simple process, which is a combination of several simple operations performed in a given sequence. Before proceeding with the installation, you need to order a window, and for this you need to correctly perform preliminary measurements. So…
Window measurements: everything you need to know
First, we determine the type of window opening.
It can be of two types: either with a quarter or without a quarter.
We take measurements of the window without a quarter
A clean window opening is the easiest to measure. Such an opening is found only in a new house. We measure the opening itself in a vertical plane and subtract 5 centimeters from the resulting figure. We have height. Of these 5 centimeters, 1.5 centimeters will be filled with mounting foam at the top of the window, and 3.5 centimeters are laid for installing the window sill. Similarly, we measure the opening in the horizontal plane, subtract 3 centimeters for the gaps (1.5 cm each on the right and left) and get the width of the window.
Next, we measure the length and width of the ebb and the window sill. To the obtained dimensions, you need to add from 5 to 20 centimeters in order to “embed” the window sill a little into the wall on both sides. If you get down to business for the first time, then lay down the dimensions of the window sill more - during installation, all unnecessary will be cut off. As a rule, window sills and ebbs have a uniform width (10-60 cm) and length (up to six meters). With minimal dimensions, installers will be able to select and bring the most suitable parts.
We make measurements of a window with a quarter
Width: we measure the opening in the horizontal plane between the quarters and add three centimeters to the resulting figure (one and a half centimeters from each side). Height: measure the distance from the bottom edge of the opening to the edge of the top quarter. Nothing needs to be added or subtracted from the resulting figure.
The window sill and low tide are measured, as in the first version.
As a result, after all the measurements made, we should have recorded:
- window height and width;
- length and width of the tide;
- length and width of the window sill.
When replacing old windows, the previous structure is located in the opening, which means that it is impossible to measure the opening itself. Therefore, it is necessary to take measurements from the window frame, which will subsequently be dismantled.
When ordering a window, try to find out what comes with the windows. The following elements are usually included:
- windowsill;
- end caps. In order to choose the right plugs, it is necessary to indicate the width of the window sill (the protruding part from the wall);
- installation profile;
- anchor plates - structural fasteners.
If these parts are not included in the kit, you will have to purchase them additionally.
In addition to dimensions, other data may be required:
- profile type (number of cameras);
- double-glazed window option (number of glasses and air chambers);
- window opening type. The most common: swing, swing-out with ventilation, combined. In addition, in some cases blind windows are installed without the possibility of opening. The type of opening is determined by the fittings installed in the structure. The ease of use, functionality and durability of the window depend on the type and quality of the fittings. There are several types of window opening. For convenient ventilation, the window should be equipped with tilt-and-turn fittings. Deaf versions of the sashes are unsuitable for ventilation, ordinary folding ones without turning are inconvenient.
Thermal conductivity and sound insulation of the window: so that noise and cold do not get into the house
Thermal conductivity of plastic windows
In addition to the manufacturer, when choosing a window, it is also necessary to take into account such a quality as the thermal conductivity of the structure. According to SNiPs and territorial building codes, the heat transfer resistance coefficient of a window varies depending on the climatic conditions of the region of residence. Structures that are installed in residential premises should not have a heat transfer resistance lower than indicated for a particular region of residence.
Thermal conductivity directly depends on the design and type of glass used in double-glazed windows. If you order windows with energy-saving glasses, then the thermal insulation of structures increases by 10-15%. The cost of energy-saving glasses is about 250 rubles. for 1 sq. m.
The thermal conductivity of the window may decrease due to poor-quality installation, less often - factory defects. Very often, in the process of illiterate installation, a chip or crack occurs on a double-glazed window, and the design loses one of its main qualities - tightness. Visually, this manifests itself as fogging inner surface glasses. As a result, the room will become colder in winter, and the house will have to be heated more.
To improve the thermal conductivity parameters of the window, it is possible to prepare a support profile. From the point of view of thermal conductivity, the stand profile is the weakest point in the window structure. To fix the drain, it will have to be drilled, which will further worsen the thermal conductivity parameters. To normalize the heat-shielding qualities of the window, the internal volume of the stand profile can be filled with mounting foam. This should be done a day before installing the window so that the foam is completely frozen. Foaming of the stand profile by GOST is not provided, window companies also do not practice this operation.
Soundproofing properties of plastic windows
This parameter is essential if there is a busy highway near the house or Railway. However, it is always more pleasant if external noises from the street do not penetrate inside the house. And this is impossible to achieve without high-quality soundproofing of the window.
How to install PVC windows: to unpack or not to unpack - that is the question!
When installing windows, you need to choose the type of installation - with unpacking (unpacking) or without unpacking. Do you want to understand how these two methods differ from each other? Take a look at the scheme of the plastic window.
- Frame- one of the main elements of the window. The frame is formed from a reinforced PVC profile and several sealed chambers. The number of cameras can vary from two or more.
- double glazing- the largest element of the window, occupies about 80% of its area. It is a hermetic structure consisting of glass. Depending on the number of glasses and air gaps between them, it can be single-chamber, double-chamber, etc. The double-glazed window fits snugly to the frame due to the seal.
- Glazing beads- parts that allow you to mechanically fix the double-glazed window to the frame.
- Impost- a separator, thanks to which the window is divided into several shutters. There are single-leaf, double-leaf, three-leaf, etc. designs.
- blind sash- sash without opening mechanism.
- Transom- opening sash.
- Podokonny(other names - bottom, mounting, stand) profile – load-bearing element window construction. It is necessary for correct installation and fastenings inside the premises of a plastic window sill and an external drain.
- accessories- all moving parts of the structure designed to open, close, fix the transom when ventilating the room.
Window installation method with unpacking
(in some regions the term "unpacking" is used, the essence is the same). This method is based on a preliminary disassembly of the structure: glazing beads and double-glazed windows. After the through fixing of the frame to the wall, all removed elements are installed again.
To quickly and correctly unpack the structure, you need a strong knife or chisel. We insert a knife blade or a chisel between the glazing bead and the frame, gently knock the glazing bead out of the groove with gentle blows on the handle until a gap appears. Then we bend the knife (chisel) and push the elements apart with the wide side. We consistently do this with all the glazing beads that hold the double-glazed window in the sash. It is not recommended to do this procedure with the sharp end of the knife, as the risk of damaging the window or glazing bead increases. To remove the double-glazed window, be sure to wear gloves, otherwise you will injure your hands on sharp corners designs. If the window is not deaf and there are sashes, remove them. If there is a transom in one of the wings, it is easier to remove it as an assembly without removing the double-glazed window. Everything, the design is ready for installation.
Disadvantages of the method: more time consuming, lasts longer than installation without unpacking (on average, 30-60 minutes are added for each window). Often, in a window installed in this way, fogging of a double-glazed window occurs. In addition, the appearance of glazing beads (scratches, chips) may be damaged if they are inaccurately removed / installed. It is important to perform all actions clearly and carefully. After removing the packages, you need to put them in a safe place where there is no chance of accidentally hitting them and breaking them.
Advantages and scope of the method: installation of windows with unpacking is more reliable and gives a strong fixation of the frame to the wall. This method should be chosen in the following cases:
- it is planned to fix windows in multi-storey buildings (from the 15th floor). When installing windows on the lower floors, where there is no windage and gusts of wind, they can not be unpacked;
- Significant structures are to be installed. However, in this case, combined installation is allowed (the balcony block is attached without unpacking).
Window installation method without unpacking
This method does not require disassembly of the structure. That is, it is not required to remove double-glazed windows and glazing beads. The frame is attached to the wall not with dowels, but with fasteners pre-installed outside the wall.
Advantages and scope of the method: installation of windows without unpacking saves time, reducing the process as much as possible. This method is recommended to be used where there is no need for increased fastening strength: when replacing standard windows in private houses, as well as, as mentioned earlier, in multi-storey buildings below the 15th floor.
Installation of windows with and without unpacking: sequence, features, professional advice
The installation of plastic windows is specific, therefore, to perform this work, a special set of tools and materials is required, without which it is practically impossible to install windows correctly and accurately. If it is not possible to buy the necessary things in a specialized store, you can contact a window company - professionals will definitely find what they need.
- building plumb line and level
- screwdriver and perforator
- drill with a set of drills
- gun and mounting foam;
- hacksaw or jigsaw
- small crowbar or pry bar
- gun for silicone
- chisel or wide-bladed knife
- mounting wedges
- tape measure and pencil
- roll waterproofing material
- iron sheets (galvanized) and metal shears (required for self-manufacturing plums)
The main stages of installing PVC windows:
- dismantling of the previous structure and window sill;
- preparing a new window for installation;
- frame marking for subsequent fastening;
- fixing fasteners to the frame;
- making holes for fasteners;
- leveling the plastic structure;
- fixing the structure in the opening;
- installation of the ebb (can be performed at the end of the process);
- intermediate adjustment of fittings;
- foaming of cavities between the window opening and the frame;
- window sill installation;
- final adjustment of fittings.
Each of the stages of installing a plastic window should be considered separately.
Dismantling of old window structures
Preliminary stage: preparing the window for installation
Windows with movable sashes are mounted closed. When installing a window in open form there is a risk of deformation of the structure (the foam that will fill the gap between the opening and the frame can bend the frame). After foaming, the window is left for 12 hours, during which it must not be opened. And to avoid accidental opening of the sash, you can postpone the installation of the handle until the window is installed.
It is not recommended to remove the tape with which the window surface is sealed to protect it from damage until the installation of the structure and finishing of the slopes is completed.
PVC window installation sequence
Mark on the frame of fasteners
We retreat from the corner of the frame 5-15 centimeters and outline a place for the extreme fixing element. You need to fasten the frame from 4 sides, the fasteners are located after 70-100 cm. If a stand profile is used, then the frame is not attached from below.
Fixing fasteners on the frame
Fasteners include self-tapping screws, anchor plates, U-shaped hangers for drywall.
Anchor plates and suspensions have the same cost - $ 0.05 (wholesale), $ 0.15 (retail). However, anchor plates are thicker than hangers. When buying, give preference to products made of thicker metal.
Fasteners must be firmly fixed in the metal frame of the frame. In order for the element to be well fixed, self-tapping screws must be taken for metal. Such products have a drill at the end and a diameter of 4 mm. You can also use simple self-tapping screws, only in this case you must first mark the holes in the frame with a drill.
Making recesses for fasteners
We place the frame with fasteners attached to it in the window opening, then we knock out recesses in the opening in the appropriate places (depth 2 - 4 cm, width similar to the size of the fasteners). Fasteners will be drowned in these recesses later. By following this procedure, we will make it easier for ourselves to finish the slopes.
Tip: when installing a window without a mounting plate, place blocks of wood or other dense material under it so that it rises to the height of the window sill. Then it will be possible to fasten the window sill not to the window frame, but under it. If there is a mounting plate, the frame will automatically rise to the desired height. Usually the mounting plate is already fixed on the frame and does not need additional fixing.
Alignment to the level of the window structure
This stage is the longest in the entire window installation procedure. However, by aligning the window in the vertical and horizontal plane, we automatically give it the correct rectangular shape. To level the structure, you need wooden wedges or bars that are placed under the frame. A pair of lower wedges is set first, and you can immediately fix the window on top with an anchor plate. Next we put two wedges at the top, then left and right at the bottom and top of the window. If there is an impost, a wedge must also be placed under it. During these actions, it is important to ensure that the vertical racks do not deviate into another plane. It is convenient to align the window with two people, when one supports the structure, the second inserts the wedges.
Fastening a window to an opening
Having achieved a perfectly even position of the window, i.e. having set it correctly in level, we can proceed to fixing the structure. To do this, use dowels (diameter 6-8 mm, length 75-80 mm) or anchors (diameter 6-8 mm). The latter have a higher cost, but provide a more secure fixation. They are recommended to be used if the wall consists of shell rock, brick or foam concrete. mount on anchor plates is used if the unit design contains a thermal insert and the frame in the mounting plane cannot be mechanically fixed. The dowel, driven into concrete, is able to withstand a load of up to 60 kg, which is quite enough to fix the window. For wooden walls you can use self-tapping screws with a diameter of eight millimeters.
Tip: do not immediately tighten the screws on the sides of the frame completely, leave 1 cm to the stop. It is not necessary to screw in the construction screws in the upper part of the structure at all. The frame will not go anywhere, and you will have the opportunity to check the uniformity of the gaps on the sides and, if necessary, move the frame in one direction or another. After the final fastening, it will be more difficult to do this. If the uniformity of the gaps is satisfactory, the horizontal / vertical structure is maintained, you can completely fix the frame by screwing in the screws from above and tightening the remaining screws on the sides. After that, it is worth checking the horizontal and vertical structure again.
Fixing the ebb of the plastic window
Installation of ebbs can be done at the very end. Ebb can be bought ready-made, or do it yourself. It is best to fix this element under the window - this will prevent the penetration of water where it connects to the frame. Upon completion of the installation of the drain, the space between it and the profile is filled with foam. In the absence of the possibility of fixing the ebb under the frame, it is fixed directly to it, for which 9 mm metal screws are used.
Intermediate hardware adjustment
It is necessary to tighten or loosen the window hinges so that the sash moves silently and freely when opening and closing. The open sash must not close on its own. Properly adjusted hinges will allow it to stay in the right position.
When moving, does the sash “stripe” where the locking hardware is installed? Slightly move this element a little lower or higher.
Foaming the gaps between the opening and the frame
It is important to fill the gaps so that there are no voids left. Large gaps (more than two centimeters) are foamed in several stages, the interval between which is two hours. With this approach, there is no danger that the foam will deform the window when it expands. In addition, the consumption of mounting foam is saved, there is no excess that has to be cut off, and the quality of the mounting seam improves.
Since the foam hardens under the influence of atmospheric moisture, a lack of humidity in the room can lead to poor-quality polymerization. To avoid this, you need to lightly sprinkle water on the area between the window opening and the frame before foaming, and after filling the cavity, spray the surface of the foam itself with water. If the air temperature during installation does not exceed five degrees, then winter or all-weather foam is used. In warmer weather, summer polyurethane foam can be applied.
After the polymerization of the foam, it is necessary to protect it from exposure to ultraviolet radiation. This stage can be combined with slope finishing. But if you don’t want to make slopes yet, or plan to do it later, then the foam must be closed immediately, because it quickly collapses due to exposure to direct sunlight. In this case, we prepare cement-sand mortar at the rate of 1 part of cement and 2 parts of sand, or dilute the tile adhesive and cover the foam with any of these materials. Also available at hardware store PSUL tape (vapor-permeable self-expanding sealing tape) and close the mounting foam with it. However, the cost of the tape is quite high (from $ 3 for running meter), so the first options are used more often.
Window sill installation
1. Cropping. Window sills have a standard length and width and have a good margin, both in length and width. Before installation, the window sill is cut with a jigsaw, grinder or saw with small teeth.
2. Alignment by level. We move the window sill to the stand profile and set it on a level using wooden blocks or other improvised materials.
We close the side sections of the window sill with end caps. It is better to glue the plugs on the ends with super glue.
By pressing lightly on the window sill with your hand, we make sure that it does not sag. In some cases, the window sill is not installed evenly, but at a slight angle (no more than 3 degrees) “from the window”. Thanks to this slope, possible condensate does not flow under the window.
We foam the cavity under the windowsill.
After foaming, we put something heavy on the surface of the window sill (you can use polyethylene bottles with water, books) and leave in this form for 0.5 days.
If you do not press down the window sill with a load, then it will bend upwards under the influence of foam.
3. One day is enough for the foam to completely harden. After that, its remains, ugly sticking out of the gap under the windowsill, must be cut off with a clerical knife.
4. If the window sill initially had irregularities, then during installation a gap may remain between its upper part and the frame. It is carefully filled with silicone. It should be borne in mind that this material has low biostability and may turn black from fungus. The gap will not appear if, in advance (before installation), galvanized iron plates in the shape of the letter “Z” are fixed on the window sill profile. In addition to the fact that these plates will allow you to tightly grind the window sill, they will simplify the task of leveling it.
Final adjustment of the window
At this stage, you can remove the protective tape from the window structure and finally screw the handle. If finishing slopes is delayed, then do not remove the tape until all finishing work is completed.
Possible errors when installing windows
We list here the mistakes that are often made when installing windows and can adversely affect the usability and service life of the structure:
- Installation is carried out with glazing beads outwards. This reduces the burglary resistance of the window, since in this case the glazing beads can be easily removed from the outside and the double-glazed window can be pulled out.
- The window is poorly aligned, making it difficult to open and close.
- Mounting foam is not protected from the rays of the sun, as a result of which it collapses.
- Due to incorrect measurements or too low fastening of the window structure, the window sill cannot be placed under the frame and must be attached directly to it.
- The window structure is not fixed by any fasteners and is held only by mounting foam. Then cracks may appear on the slopes, since foaming is not a full-fledged fastener. Over time, it loses strength and the window becomes so mobile that it can fall out.
We hope that after reading the article you will be able to successfully cope with the installation of PVC windows. And even if you decide to apply to assembly organization you will be able to understand and control this process at all stages.
