Homemade rocket stoves. Do-it-yourself rocket stoves. Making a camping garden stove

Drawings and videos of the rocket furnace required for DIY installation

Do-it-yourself jet furnace: diagram, drawings, step-by-step instructions for making a rocket furnace and more + video

The jet stove or rocket stove came about as a result of a departure from the tradition of building space heating equipment. It is considered an economical heat generator, the design of which is elementary. Therefore, many are thinking about building a jet furnace with their own hands.

Description, advantages and disadvantages of the rocket oven

A heat generator for heating the air in a room is called a rocket stove or a jet stove, because during operation, in case of excessive air intake, it makes special sounds. This noise can be mistaken for the roar of a jet engine. In normal mode, the equipment operates with a barely audible rustling sound.

The rocket stove serves as a home heating and cooking device. It takes about 6 hours to burn one batch of firewood in such equipment, more than in a standard metal stove. The reason for this is the creation of a heat generator based on a furnace with upper combustion.

The flame from the jet furnace can escape

The advantages of the rocket oven include:

independence from fuel energy;
simplicity of design, consisting of affordable parts, connected in a matter of minutes;
the ability to produce a lot of heat, despite the quality of the loaded fuel.

The jet furnace also has some disadvantages:

manual control, which implies constant monitoring of equipment operation;
danger of getting burned, because the walls of the equipment become extremely hot;
inexpediency of use in the bath, because it will not be possible to warm it up.

Kinds

A unit that emits a rocket hum during operation happens:

portable (a unit of metal pipes, buckets or a gas cylinder); Portable rocket furnaces are mass-produced by the industry
stationary (created from fireclay bricks and metal containers); Such an assembly is more difficult to build than a metal furnace
equipment for heating air with a stove bench. The stove bench is equipped behind the rear wall of the furnace

Portable structures are made in large batches, because they are used for hiking. The basis of these heat generators is a pipe made up of several segments.

True, such structures, unlike units based on fireclay bricks, are not reliable. The walls of refractory blocks increase the heat transfer of the jet furnace.

If desired, you can add a couch in the form of a sofa or bed, decorated with clay or sawdust.

Details and operation of a jet heat generator

An elementary rocket furnace is a device of two pipe fragments connected by a branch at an angle of 90 degrees.

The combustion chamber in this heat generator is usually a zone in the horizontal part of the structure.

But sometimes the fuel is placed in the vertical section of the apparatus, for which the rocket furnace is constructed from two pipes of different lengths, mounted vertically and connected by a common horizontal channel.

Primary and secondary air passes through the furnace

The functioning of the jet furnace is based on two actions: the unhindered passage of wood gases through the pipe and the afterburning of gases produced during the combustion of fuel.

Wood chips and firewood are placed in the furnace of this heat generator after a highly flammable material like paper has ignited there. A container with water or other contents is placed on the open section of the pipe.

At the same time, a small space is left between the structure and the installed tank, which is necessary to create traction.

The processes occurring inside a stationary jet furnace resemble the operation of pyrolysis heating units.

Calculation of parameters (tables)

The volume of the furnace should be determined with skill, because it is he who affects the power and amount of heat generated by heating equipment.

When calculating the dimensions of reactive heating equipment, an indicator of the inner diameter of the drum D is used, the value of which can vary within 300–600 mm. You also need to know the cross-sectional area of the drum.

To determine this indicator of a rocket furnace, use the formula: S = 3.14 * D2 / 4.

The main dimensions of the jet furnace are presented in the table:

Particular importance is attached to the length of the flue with a stove bench. The maximum allowable indicators are shown in the table:

The volume of the secondary ash chamber is also an important indicator, depending on the volume of the drum and the primary chimney.

Building materials for the construction of a non-standard furnace

The production of jet heating equipment will require the presence of:

barrels with a volume of 200 liters and a diameter of 0.6 meters, an empty cylinder from under liquefied gas or buckets of tin to build a furnace drum;
square or round steel pipes 2-3 mm thick, which are needed to create a blower, a combustion chamber and a primary chimney;
fireclay crushed stone and furnace clay as heat-insulating materials;
adobe, which serves as an outer coating layer;
fireclay bricks;
sand from the bottom of the river;
pieces of sheets of zinc-coated steel or aluminum for the manufacture of covers and doors;
asbestos or basalt cardboard, which performs the tasks of a sealant.

Of the tools for the construction of a rocket furnace, you will need a welding machine. And if you plan to make heating equipment out of bricks, you will have to take:

Master OK;
mortar blade;
pick hammer;
stitching;
an acute-angled sledgehammer;
level;
plumb;
roulette.

Preparing for the assembly of heating equipment

When choosing a place for a rocket furnace, they are guided by some rules:

reactive heating equipment is placed only in a room with an area of at least 16 m²;
without floorboards under the oven, equipment installation will be easier;
above the structure that gives heat, it is forbidden to place wooden beams;
if it is understood that the chimney will go through the ceilings, then the heating equipment is placed in the middle of the house;
the heat generator cannot be installed near the outer contour of the house, otherwise the room will lose heated air;
the jet device must not be placed near the walls and partitions of their wooden materials.

To make it convenient to put fuel in jet heating equipment, it is more reasonable to put it front side opposite the entrance. It is important to leave at least a meter of unoccupied space around the rocket stove.

IN small house builders advise allocating a place in the corner for the stove. In this case, the firebox should be directed in one direction, and the stove bench (if it is made) in the other.

The stove stands on a special platform that protects the floor from high temperatures.

Having found a suitable site for a rocket furnace, they begin to prepare it for construction work. If boards are laid on the floor in the house, then in the place where the equipment will be installed, they will need to be removed. A hole is dug under the open floor, the bottom of which must be pressed.

Before construction works a special solution should be mixed. It consists of sand and clay combined in a ratio of 1:1. Water will be needed so much that the building materials acquire the consistency of sour cream, that is, ¼ of the amount of dry ingredients.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for making

If it is planned to make a rocket furnace from a gas cylinder, then you can not be afraid of difficulties. The steps to create equipment from such building materials are quite simple:

from a cylinder with a volume of 50 liters, the upper part is cut off in order to build a kind of cap;
The balloon is cut at the top and bottom
focusing on the instructions in the drawing, all parts of the product are welded to each other, that is gas bottle, a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm (future chimney), a pipe with a diameter of 7 cm (internal channel) and another pipe with a diameter of 15 cm (firebox);
Dimensions are in mm
the space between the two pipes is filled with a material that retains heat, for example, sand, which has been carefully calcined, that is, cleaned of organic substances;
legs are welded to give stability to the structure.

To build a rocket stove with a stove bench, which involves the use of bricks, you need to act differently:

The area for arranging the firebox is deepened by removing 10 cm of soil. The combustion chamber is formed from fireclay bricks. A formwork is created along the contour of the manufactured structure. To make the base strong, it is recommended to lay a reinforcing mesh or metal bars in it;
The platform will harden in about two days
The structure is poured with liquid concrete. Then they wait for the solution to harden, and finish the job. Bricks are laid in a continuous line, creating a platform for the furnace. After that, the walls of the structure are formed, exposing several rows of brick blocks;
They equip the lower channel of the structure, while one line of bricks is laid across to block the combustion chamber. The blocks are placed, leaving the vertical channel and the opening of the firebox open;
Two sectors of the furnace at this stage of construction must be open
They find a body from an old boiler and cut off the top and bottom covers on it. At the bottom of the resulting pipe, a flange is installed through which a horizontal heat exchanger will pass. Parts need to be connected to each other with a continuous weld;
Work requires diligence
An outlet pipe is inserted into the barrel, after which they take a brush for metal and scrape rust from the walls of the container. The cleaned barrel is treated with a primer, and a little later - with paint that is resistant to high temperatures;
The horizontal chimney is connected by welding to the side outlet - the future ash pan. To facilitate its cleaning, a sealed flange is mounted;
Spread the flame tube of refractory bricks. At the same time, a channel with a height and width of 18 cm is formed inside the structure. While doing this, they constantly use building level, which allows you to control the verticality of the product;
The height of the pipe is predetermined
The flame tube is covered with a protective casing, and the resulting gaps are clogged with perlite. The lower area of the vertical channel is sealed with wet clay, the function of which is to prevent spillage thermal insulation material on the floor;
From the boiler, on which the top and bottom were cut off, a fuel tank is formed. A handle must be welded to it;
To improve the appearance, the structure is treated with adobe putty, consisting of sawdust and raw clay. The first component of the composition serves in the same way as crushed stone in concrete, that is, it prevents cracking of the furnace walls. It is recommended to apply adobe putty on top of perlite backfill;
They create the facade of the furnace, for which the furnace circuit is laid out of stone, bricks, adobe and sand. The wrong side of the structure is filled with crushed stone, and the front side is filled with adobe mixture, which makes the surface perfectly even;
On the previously created base put a casing of metal barrel. The lower branch pipe of the tank is directed towards the bench. The bottom of the structure is treated with raw clay, which will ensure its tightness;
A channel from a corrugated pipe is brought to the combustion chamber. It will serve as a link between the firebox and the atmosphere from the outside;
At this stage, the oven looks almost finished.
A test kindling of the furnace is carried out, looking at how the gases are removed from the horizontal chimney. After that, the heat exchanger pipes are connected to the lower branch pipe installed on the red brick platform;
The furnace is supplemented with a pipe for removing smoke. The junction of the chimney and the heat generator is sealed with refractory coating and asbestos cord;
Using clay and adobe, the couch is given the desired shape. Only the horizontal section of the structure is left unsealed, which will then be used during cooking.
The furnace functions as a whole system

Design improvement

A stove bench with a flue inside is not the only option for upgrading a rocket furnace. The design can be improved with a water jacket connected to heating system in which water circulates. It is desirable to give this part of the structure the appearance of a coil, created from copper pipe swirling on the chimney.

This design provides even more warmth.

Another way to improve the jet furnace is associated with the organization of the flow of heated secondary air into the flame tube. This will increase the efficiency of the heat generator, but will lead to the deposition of a large amount of soot in the primary chimney. Therefore, it is better to make sure that the drum cover can be dismantled if necessary.

The subtleties of operating an unconventional furnace

The rocket furnace is heated by analogy with the upper combustion heat generator. It turns out that the kindling of equipment called a rocket must be carried out according to certain rules:

the main raw material for the furnace of the unit should be laid only after the structure has warmed up well, for which, first, sawdust or paper is placed and set on fire in the blowing sector;
they necessarily react to the muffling of the hum coming from the furnace - they put a large batch of fuel into the combustion chamber, which will ignite on its own from the red-hot residues of sawdust;
the process is closely monitored, that is, after laying firewood, the damper is fully opened, and after a while, when the equipment makes a hum, it is covered to produce a sound similar to rustling;
as necessary, the damper is covered more and more, otherwise the furnace will become filled with an excess volume of air, which will disrupt the pyrolysis inside the flame tube and lead to the creation of a strong hum.

Since the reaction furnace was originally designed for use in field conditions, its design is extremely simple. This allows you to cope with the manufacture of the unit to the usual home master. But, despite the apparent lightness, the rocket stove is supposed to be assembled, taking into account the correct ratio of parameters. Otherwise, the equipment will be unproductive.

Ksenia Zubkova
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Source: //legkovmeste.ru/stroitelstvo-i-remont/otoplenie/reaktivnaya-pech-svoimi-rukami.html

Do-it-yourself rocket stove - instructions!

Unfortunately, in our country, almost no one knows about the rocket stove. Meanwhile, such a design is extremely useful in a number of cases due to the almost complete absence of soot during operation and the high combustion temperature.

Jet Furnace

rocket furnace

Today we will talk about how a do-it-yourself rocket stove is made.

Principle of operation

Hot gases instead of a chimney enter a special hood, where they burn out (hence the absence of soot). At the same time, the temperature rises even more, and the pressure, on the contrary, decreases. The cycle is constantly repeated and soon the furnace enters the combustion mode with maximum thrust (the strength of the latter depends on design features and installation quality).

rocket furnace

The temperature in the bell can reach 1200ᵒС, as a result of which all waste is burned almost without residue, and the exhaust consists mainly of carbon dioxide and water vapor.

Note! Thanks to this, the chimney can be laid under the floor or through some kind of heating structure (couch, for example, or a bench). What's more, the hot hood can be used for water heating, cooking, fruit drying, etc.

Jet furnaces

The benefits include:

high efficiency;
lack of soot;
high temperature;
the possibility of using cones, damp branches, dry plant stems as fuel - at a temperature of 1200ᵒ almost everything burns;
low fuel consumption - about four times lower than in the standard design.

Types of rocket furnaces

There are several types of rocket (or jet, as they are also called) furnaces.

Portable structures from tin containers (paint cans, buckets, etc.). Great helpers on the construction site or on a hike that can be made in just a few hours.
Furnaces made of refractory bricks and metal barrels, intended for heating heat-intensive masses. They feature a horizontal chimney installed underground and an external riser to provide draft.
Fully brick structures are used for air heating gender. They consist of several chimneys at once.

Note! Due to the complexity of the implementation of the third option, only the first two will be considered in this article.

Making a jet furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

In this case, work traditionally begins with the preparation of everything necessary.

Making a jet furnace from a brick and a metal barrel, blueprint

Stage 1. Materials and equipment

For construction you will need:

fireclay brick;
steel barrel 200 l;
chimney pipe;
metal brush;
old barbeque;
fireproof paint;
bayonet shovel;
expanded clay;
fittings;
adobe;
perlite;
cement mortar;
trowel. Production of a jet furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Stage 2. Preparation

Step 1. A pit is pulled out in the floor (if possible) with a depth of about 30-50 cm. This is necessary so that the level of the horizontal chimney does not rise much.

Step 2. The steel barrel will serve as a cap for the furnace. First, the barrel is fired and cleaned of soot wire brush and then painted with refractory paint.

Note! The paint is applied only after the chimney outlet flange is installed.

Stage 3. Foundation

Step 1 Formwork is being prepared for the future foundation.

Step 2. In the place where the firebox will be, several bricks go deep into the ground.

Step 3. Steel reinforcement is laid on the bottom.

Step 4 Bricks are laid around the lower point of the combustion chamber according to the level.

Step 5. The base is poured with concrete mortar.

Making a jet furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Stage 4. Masonry

After the mortar has dried, you can proceed to laying the rocket furnace.

Note! To do this, you need to use only refractory clay.

Step 1. On the first tier, the masonry rises, leaving only a hole for the combustion chamber.

Step 2. At the second level, the lower channel of the furnace is formed.

Making a jet furnace from a brick and a metal barrel

Step 3. On the third channel, it is covered with masonry in such a way that two holes are obtained - for the combustion chamber and the vertical channel.

Note! Bricks after laying can not be hewn - they still have to be hidden with adobe and expanded clay.

Step 4. Preparation for laying the vertical channel. In addition to the barrel itself, this will require an old water heater of about 150 liters.

A flange is built into the barrel for connecting the chimney. Here it is desirable to install a tee for cleaning the chimney.

Step 5. Using the "boot" method, the ascending part of the structure is placed. The internal section of this part should be approximately 18 cm.

Step 6. A cut of the water heater is put on the ascending part, and the voids between the walls are filled with perlite. The upper part of the perlite is sealed with chamotte clay.

Step 7. The base of the furnace is lined with bags filled with sand, the base of the casing is coated with clay. The voids between the bags and the body are filled with expanded clay, after which the base is finished with the same clay.

Step 8. The chimney is connected, an inverted steel barrel is put on the ascending part.

Step 9. A trial run of the furnace is carried out, after which the barrel is painted with fire-resistant paint.

Making a jet furnace from a brick and a metal barrel, a diagram

Stage 5. Chimney lining

Step 1. The chimney is lined with sandbags and covered with expanded clay.

Step 2. The construction is given the appropriate shape with the help of fireclay clay.

Note! The rocket furnace needs a lot of oxygen during operation, so it is recommended to run an air duct from the street.

It remains only to install the old barbecue in the neck of the firebox and close it with a lid. The seams are sealed with clay. Everything, the brick rocket oven is ready for operation.

Stove stove, built on the principle of a rocket stove

Stove stove, built on the principle of a rocket stove, diagram

Stove stove, built on the principle of a rocket stove, foundation

Stove stove, built on the principle of a rocket stove, masonry

Making a camping garden stove

In this design, as in the one described above, the principle of operation is to isolate the fire and direct the thermal energy to the right place.

Stage 1. Preparing everything you need

To prepare a portable rocket stove you will need:

two tin containers of different diameters;
a couple of corners;
steel clamps ø10 cm;
pipe from of stainless steel for a chimney;
small-sized crushed stone;
Bulgarian;
scissors for metal. Making a camping garden stove Making a camping garden stove Making a camp garden stove In the second bucket - the bottom of the rocket stove we cut a hole for the pipe We cut the metal into petals and bend inside the bucket Direct flow Direct flow We fill the bucket with small gravel We put on the second bucket-lid on the pipe of the rocket furnace From the wire we bend the burner for dishes From the wire we bend the burner for dishes We melt the rocket oven

Stage 2. Assembly of the structure

Step 1. A lid for the structure is made from a smaller bucket. To do this, a hole is made in it for the chimney (the cover is not removed). In this case, it is better to bend the “petals” inward - so the pipe will be more securely fixed.

The lower half of the bucket is cut off with a grinder.

Step 2. A hole is cut in the bottom of the other container for connecting the firebox. The tin is cut with scissors into "petals" and bent inward.

Step 3. The forward flow is assembled from a pipe and a pair of corners. Then the pipe is inserted into the bucket and connected there to the "petals" with a steel clamp. Everything, the forward flow of the rocket furnace is ready.

Step 4. The space between the forward flow and the walls of the bucket is covered with fine gravel. The latter will perform two functions in the design at once - thermal insulation and thermal accumulation.

Step 5. The second bucket (lid) is put on the jet furnace.

Step 6. The burner for dishes is bent from steel wire.

Note! Instead of a burner, you can install three bricks.

Step 7. It remains only to paint the structure with heat-resistant paint (preferably gray or black). For melting, the forward flow outlet will be used.

Mini jet oven

Reactive mini-oven, kindling

Rules for the operation of rocket furnaces

Rocket stoves, as well as other designs long burning, need to run on a warm pipe. And if this is not so important for the second version of the furnace, then for the first option a cold chimney will only lead to unnecessary burning of fuel. For this reason, the structure needs to be preheated - fired with sawdust, paper, etc.

It is also worth noting that the jet furnace is unable to self-adjust, so at first the blower opens completely, and is covered only after the structure starts to hum strongly. In the future, the supply of oxygen gradually decreases.

About the rocket stove in the bath

Jet wood stove with sun lounger

Many, probably, were interested in the question - is it possible to use a jet furnace in a bath? It would seem that it is possible, because it is quite easy to equip a heater on a tire.

In fact, such a design for a bath is not suitable. For light steam, you first need to warm up the walls, and only then, after a while, the air. For the latter, the furnace must be a source of convection and thermal radiation (IR). This is the problem - in a rocket furnace, convection is clearly distributed, and the design does not provide for losses due to thermal radiation at all.

Do-it-yourself rocket stove

conclusions

Be that as it may, but today in the manufacture of rocket furnaces there is more intuition than real accurate calculations, therefore, this is an almost limitless field for creativity.

We also suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video instruction for the manufacture of a rocket furnace.

- Do-it-yourself jet oven

Source: //svoimi-rykami.ru/stroitelstvo-doma/pechi_i_mangaly/pech-raketa-svoimi-rukami.html

Do-it-yourself rocket stove made of long-burning bricks: drawing, instruction, photo

A rocket stove made of long-burning bricks, despite its simple design, can solve a number of problems for owners of summer cottages and private houses. These include not only the functions of heating and cooking, but also the creation of an original interior and comfort in the room.

Principle of operation

During the thermal decomposition of solid organic fuel, gaseous substances are released, which also decompose and turn into wood gas in the process, which, when burned, has high level heat transfer.

In conventional solid fuel stoves, wood gas goes into the pipe along with the gas, where it cools and settles on the walls in the form of soot. In a rocket-type furnace, due to the horizontal channel, the gases move more slowly, do not have time to cool down, but burn out, giving off a large amount of heat.

In models of jet heating devices of complex design, heated air and gas passes through a number of internal channels. Then they move to the upper part of the body, under the hob, where it burns out completely. For such a rocket, there is no need for additional blowing. The draft in them is created due to the chimney, and the longer its length, the more intense the upward flow.

Principle of operation

In this diagram, the principle of operation of a rocket stove with a stove bench

Advantages and disadvantages

Rocket furnaces long-term combustion have the following advantages:

high efficiency - not less than 85%;
high speed of heating the room - 50 m² will become warm in less than 1 hour;
the absence of soot - the exhaust during the combustion of fuel does not form soot, but is formed in the form of steam and carbon;
the ability to operate on any type of solid fuel;
low consumption - fuel consumption by a rocket stove is 4 - 5 times less than a conventional stove under equal conditions: burning time interval and heating temperature;
the possibility of arranging a warm bed;
the duration of heat retention in a well-heated structure without adding fuel - up to 12 hours.

There are many advantages to such a furnace, but there are also bad sides.

The disadvantages include:

manual method of controlling the heating device - fuel burns out quickly, and it is required to report it regularly;
heat heating of some structural elements threatens to burn the owners in case of accidental contact;
the heating rate does not allow the use of a rocket oven for baths;
the aesthetic component of such a device is not for everyone and is not suitable for any interior;
the danger of carbon monoxide penetration into living rooms.

materials

Do-it-yourself building materials for the construction of a long-burning rocket furnace are selected depending on the calorific value of the fuel. For laying the main part of the body, a simple red oven brick is usually used. The firebox and the furnace bunker are lined with fireclay bricks.

If it is planned to use high-calorie fuel (for example, coal), then refractory bricks are used for the construction of almost all parts of the structure. The masonry elements are fastened with an aqueous solution of a mixture of sand and clay.

Regardless of the type of design for a long-burning rocket furnace, you will need to buy furnace fittings:

blew;
grates;
furnace doors;
intermediate cap;
chimney pipe.

Tools

To build a rocket-type furnace with your own hands, you need to prepare in advance a set of tools for work, which should consist of:

trowels for scooping up and distributing the solution. It is more convenient to work with a tool with a handle slightly shifted to the side;
picks or hammers - picks for hewing individual parts of bricks;
grinders with diamond disc for cutting solid blocks into quarters and halves;
mallets with a rubber tip for leveling bricks in masonry;
twisted cord - moorings;
building level;
square and tape measure;
shovels.

You also need to stock up on two containers for preparing a solution, concrete and a metal mesh for sifting ingredients.

How to do it yourself?

Before you make a rocket furnace, you need to decide on the place of its installation, with the dimensions of the future design, and develop a diagram. The technology of masonry itself is quite simple, any novice builder can master it.

The simplest design of a rocket stove can be built from 20 bricks in a summer cottage and used to heat food brought from home.

Location selection

Before starting construction, the first step is to choose a place. Rocket-type brick ovens are recommended to be placed closer to front door. In this case, the ash after cleaning will not need to be carried through the entire room, which will positively affect the overall dust content of the room.

It is also desirable that at the exit of the pipe there are no rafters located closer than 40 cm to the chimney. And yet, the stove should not be adjacent to outer wall at home, so that expensive heat does not go to heat the street.

Solution preparation

Cement mortar under the influence of high temperatures quickly cracks, therefore, only a mortar consisting of clay and sand is used for laying brick heating devices.

Their proportions are determined experimentally, depending on the quality of the clay. Most often in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3, and the higher the fat content of the clay, the less it is added to the solution.

First, the clay must be soaked, filtered, and then sand is introduced. The resulting solution should have the consistency of thick sour cream. You can check the level of its viscosity in the following way:

place a wooden stick or trowel handle into the mixture;
remove the tool and shake well;
check the thickness of the adhering layer: if less than 2 mm add clay, more than 3 mm - sand.

The preparation of the mortar must be approached with all responsibility, since only a plastic mixture of the required density can fill all the irregularities of the bricks and ensure their strong adhesion.

Masonry rocket stove of 20 bricks

Ordering a rocket furnace for 20 bricks

An example of a brick rocket stove

Masonry rocket stove with stove bench

A brick rocket stove, even equipped with a bench, is small. The order shown in the figures (below) allows you to assemble the structure without using metal products. Only the doors will be iron. Subsequently, the body can be coated with clay to give it more rounded shapes.

row number	Number of bricks, pcs.	Description of masonry	Drawing
1	62	Formation of the furnace base	(click to enlarge)
2	44	The formation of the base of the channels for heating the couch along the entire structure. Fastening mortgages for mounting a cast-iron door
3	44	Repeating the contour of the second row
4	59	Complete channel coverage. The beginning of the formation of a vertical smoke channel and a furnace
5	60	The construction of the couch	(click to enlarge)
6	17	Continuation of laying the smoke channel
7	18
8	14
9; 10	14	Smoke channel formation	(click to enlarge)
11	13
12	11	The beginning of laying the chimney pipe. From here begins the channel through which the air from hob drop down to move to the couch
13	10	The end of the formation of the surface under the hob. Laying asbestos gasket, which is covered with sheet steel.	(click to enlarge)
14; 15	5	Closing the chimney channel and forming a low wall between the bench and the hob.

After completing the masonry work, the home-made rocket stove must be dried, carefully, by heating at low intensity. First, no more than 20% of the firewood norm is laid in the firebox, and the device is heated twice a day for 30-40 minutes.

According to this scheme, the stove is heated until it outside surface won't get rid of wet spots. Drying, depending on the dimensions of the device, may take from three to eight days. During this time, the room should be well ventilated, especially in summer.

Accelerating drying can lead to cracking of the masonry, that is, the device will become unsuitable for further heating.

Ready view

You need to start a brick rocket stove only with a warm chimney. For a small device, this property is not so significant, and a larger stove for a cold pipe only uses firewood in vain.

Therefore, before loading the fuel rate after a long break in operation, the rocket stove must be heated with paper, dry shavings, straw, etc., placing them in a blower with the door open. When the hum in the stove lowers its tone or subsides, then you can load all the fuel into the furnace, it should ignite by itself from the already existing fire.

A rocket stove with a bed is not a fully self-regulating device for external conditions and fuel energy efficiency. Therefore, at the beginning of the furnace with a regular amount of fuel, the blower door is left in the open position. After the stove starts to hum strongly, it is covered to a position where the sound emitted is barely audible.

Only dry wood can be used to heat the stove, wet wood will not allow the stove to warm up to the desired temperature, which can lead to reverse draft.

Conclusion

The brick jet stove is becoming an increasingly popular heating appliance for small buildings both temporary and permanent residence. This is explained by the simplicity of execution, the cheapness of the material, the duration of autonomous operation and the high heat transfer of this design.

This device, despite our brave space achievements, is still not widely known in our country. And for sure, only a few are interested in how to make a rocket furnace with their own hands, because they do not understand the principle of its operation.

This is a relatively new word in the domestic heating environment, which came from Germany. The key to unprecedented popularity in the homeland is a simple cheap design, coupled with high efficiency and with the slightest absence of signs of soot. Considering that it is not difficult to make equipment on your own, we will tell you how to do it, we will give drawings, recommendations from specialists, videos and photos.

Principle of operation

Oddly enough, but the very name "rocket furnace" has nothing to do with space or rockets themselves. The only analogy that can remotely remind of this is a jet of flame rising up in mobile installations.

The design feature of the furnace is the presence of a bell, where flue gases enter and where the final combustion of the sludge takes place. Under the cap, the temperature already during the first 2 hours rises to 1000 0 C, as a result of which everything burns without sediment, and the exhaust is formed only in the form of steam and carbon. In this case, gases circulate freely through the channels without forced draft, which is usually created by a chimney.

This design allows you to use the stove not only for heating the room, but also for heating food or water (on the hood). If the chimney is run through a certain part of the room, up to the sunbed, it will also heat up.

Among the main advantages of rocket furnaces are the following:

high efficiency - 85%;
very fast heating of the room - 50 sq.m. in 45-60 minutes;
the absence of soot and, as a result, soot deposits - at temperatures above 1000 degrees, everything burns out without residue;
the ability to use any solid fuel;
minimum flow- at the same temperature and duration of burning, a rocket furnace consumes 4-5 times less fuel than a conventional furnace.

The simplest rocket works according to the direct combustion formula - these are mobile structures that are easily assembled in field conditions literally from improvised materials and are also easily dismantled.

The simplest design from a barrel or gas cylinder

If we are talking only about the first stages of self-manufacturing of a rocket furnace (see video), then it is still worth starting the acquaintance with the simplest design. The camp stove is presented in the form of a bent pipe section, where the fuel chamber and the ash pan are combined.

For fuel, a steel plate is welded to the bottom, at the bottom of which a hole is cut for air suction.

It is possible to use any straight cylindrical container for manufacturing - the drawing of the rocket furnace shows how the direct combustion process takes place.

Video 1 A simple construction of a portable cooking rocket oven

Brick rocket stove in 20 minutes

If you have 20-30 bricks on hand, you can make a simple rocket stove with your own hands in just a few minutes. Moreover, no adhesives are required for masonry.

Lay out of brick, as shown in the photo, a vertical combustion chamber. At the same time, the dishes are placed on the hood in such a way as not to impede the movement of the emitted gases

Do-it-yourself rocket-type brick oven:

For this design to work well, a warm pipe is needed. This term among stove-makers refers to the preliminary run of chips and paper so that the pipe warms up. IN cold pipe there will be stagnation of gas, which makes heating difficult. And if the pipe is warm, then when the firewood is ignited, a powerful draft appears in the channel.

For reference. In the above simple designs from a gas cylinder or pipe, there is a significant drawback - the vertical loading of firewood. Each time you have to move firewood into the chamber when they burn out and only after that put it on. Stationary rocket furnaces on coal or long-term combustion already provide for a vertical bookmark, which greatly simplifies operation.

Long burning rocket stove

Photo 6 The design of a stationary furnace-rocket

Do-it-yourself rocket jet furnace scheme

In order to make such a unit with your own hands, you need to decide on the dimensions and structural elements.

How a rocket works:

As can be seen from the drawing, the diameter of the cap (D), which covers the top of the pipe, and its cross section (S) are taken as the basis.

Based on these indicators, the dimensions of the rocket furnace are calculated:

the height of the drum is 2 of its diameter;
the height of the clay coating is 2/3 of the height;
coating thickness - 1/3 of the diameter;
sectional area of the pipe - 7% of its transverse section;
blower area - 1/2 pipe section;
the flame tube horizontally and vertically must be the same;
ash pan volume - 4-6% of the drum height;
the cross-sectional area of the external chimney is a double cross-section of the pipe.
thickness of the insulating layer (adobe cushion) under the outer chimney 60 mm;
the thickness of the coating of the stove bench is 1/4 of the diameter of the drum;
outer pipe height - 4000 mm;
the length of the flue directly depends on the diameter of the drum. If for its manufacture they took a metal container with a diameter of 50-60 cm and a volume of 200 liters, then the length of the flue pipe will be at least 6 meters. If the diameter is half as much, then the bed should be made up to 4 meters.

If you are making a stationary rocket furnace with your own hands, be sure to pay attention to the lining of the top of the pipe. This is necessary to isolate the brazier from the walls of the furnace in order to prevent overheating of the walls. Fireclay bricks can be used for lining.

Photo examples of the original performance

It is noteworthy that not only the walls, but also the lining itself need protection. In order to protect it from combustible gases, you can create a metal sheathing and fill it with river sand. For this purpose, you can use any metal object at hand - a barrel, a bucket, galvanization.

The sand is poured into the bucket layer by layer, with each layer watered abundantly for proper compaction. When the protection is filled with sand to the top, leave for 7-10 days to dry.

The lining of the brazier is done much faster - fireclay bricks are laid on the clay mortar, and the space between the latter and the wall will also have to be covered in layers with sand - with water and drying time.

Pipe lining scheme

All further work on the installation of a jet-type rocket furnace continues only after not only the lining has dried, but also the clay protection, which is applied over the upper cut.

Before making a stationary structure, practice on a traveling sample. After the first experience, it will become clear even if you have not read books for rocket furnaces.

Disadvantages of the heater

Often this device is used to heat food or water - indeed, a huge amount of heat, a red-hot cap, why not take advantage of this idea? However, connecting a water circuit in order to heat the whole house, and not a room, is impossible. The design is so simple that any intervention, including the coil, will disrupt the course of work.
Surprisingly, on such light mobile the device for heating is absolutely not suitable for either a bathhouse or a garage. Even with its high efficiency, the camping installation will not heat the air in the steam room to the required minimum. And in a garage or warehouse, it is not recommended to use appliances with direct open flames.

In this article, we will give an example of a camping installation, for which no masonry or finishing materials are needed.

Necessary materials:

2 buckets;
stainless steel pipe;
river sand or crushed stone for lining.

Step 1. Cut a hole in the sidewall of one of the buckets along the diameter of the pipe at a height of 5 cm from the bottom. The height should be enough to fill the bucket with gravel or sand.

Step 2. Divide the pipe into 2 parts - a short loading section and a pancake knee-chimney.

Step 2. Insert the pipe into the hole in the bucket.

Step 4. Cut, by analogy with item 1, a hole in the bucket, but already directly in the bottom. The hole diameter corresponds to the pipe diameter. Insert the pipe.

Step 5. Pour sand or gravel into the bucket, which will act as a heat accumulator of the flame tube.

Step 6. Making legs or stands. For this, ordinary reinforcement is suitable, which is bent under pressure and the base is cut out.

Rocket stove from a gas cylinder

This is a sophisticated improved version, for the manufacture of which you will need an already used gas cylinder and a 4 mm rectangular pipe.

The scheme remains exactly the same with the only exception that combustible gases are discharged from the side through the hole, and not from above, as happens with marching samples.

If there is a need to cook or heat food, the upper part of the cylinder with a tap is cut off, and a flat plate is welded on top.

Video 2 We make a do-it-yourself rocket stove

A do-it-yourself rocket stove, drawings of which most home craftsmen would probably like to have in their archive, can be made, in principle, even within one day, since its design is quite simple. If you have skills in working with tools, reading drawings, stocked necessary materials, then making a simple stove of this type will not be difficult. It should be noted that it can be made from the most different materials, which are at hand, but a lot will depend on where the oven is planned to be installed. The rocket stove has a slightly different principle of operation from other heating devices, and can be either stationary or portable.

Stationary rocket stoves are installed inside the house along the walls or on the area reserved for cooking in the courtyard of the house. If the stove is installed indoors, then it is able to heat a room up to 50 square meters. m.

Portable versions of the rocket stove are usually very small and can easily fit in the trunk of a car. Therefore, when traveling, for example, to a picnic or to a dacha, such a stove will help to boil water and cook dinner. Moreover, the fuel consumption in the rocket stove is quite small, even dry branches, splinter or grass tufts can be used as it.

The principle of operation of the rocket-type stove

Despite the simplicity of the rocket stove, its design uses two principles of operation that the developers borrowed from other types of solid fuel stoves. So for her effective work the following principles are taken:

The principle of free circulation of gases released from the fuel through the created furnace channels, without the forced creation of a chimney draft.
The principle of post-combustion of pyrolysis gases released during the combustion of fuel in the mode of insufficient oxygen supply.

In the simplest designs of rocket ovens, which are used only for cooking, only the first principle of operation can operate, since it is rather difficult to create the necessary conditions for pyrolysis and the organization of gas afterburning in them.

To understand the constructions and understand how they work, you need to consider some of them in turn.

The simplest design of a rocket stove

To begin with, it is worth considering the simplest device of a direct combustion rocket furnace. As a rule, such devices are used only for heating water or for cooking, and only in the open air. As can be seen from the figure below, these are two pipe sections connected by a right angle bend.

The furnace for such a design of the furnace is the horizontal part of the pipe, and fuel is laid into it. Often the furnace has a vertical loading - in this case, for the manufacture the simplest stove three elements are used - these are two pipes of different heights, installed vertically and connected from below by a common horizontal channel. The lower pipe will serve as the firebox. For the manufacture of a stationary version of the simplest design scheme, a brick is often used, installed on a heat-resistant mortar.

To achieve higher efficiency, the furnace was improved, and it appeared additional elements, for example, the pipe began to be installed in a housing, which enhances the heating of the structure.

1 - outer metal body of the furnace.

2 - pipe - combustion chamber.

3 - a channel formed by a jumper under the fuel chamber and designed for free passage of air into the combustion area.

4 - the space between the pipe (riser) and the body, densely filled with a heat-insulating composition, for example, ash.

The heating of the furnace is as follows. First, a light combustible material, for example, paper, and when it flares up, wood chips or other main fuel are thrown into the fire. As a result of the process of intense combustion, hot gases are formed that rise along the vertical channel of the pipe and go outside. On the open section of the pipe and install a container for boiling water or cooking.

An important condition for the intensity of fuel combustion is the creation of a gap between the pipe and the installed container. If its hole is completely blocked, then the combustion inside the structure will stop, since there will be no draft, which provides air supply to the combustion area and raises the heated gases up. To avoid problems with this, a removable or stationary stand for the container is installed on the upper edge of the pipe.

This diagram shows a simple design, on the loading opening of which a door is installed. And to create thrust, a special channel is provided, which forms the lower wall of the combustion chamber and a plate welded at a distance of 7-10 mm from it. Even when the firebox door is completely closed, the air supply will not stop. In this scheme, the second principle is already starting to work - without active oxygen access to burning wood, the pyrolysis process can begin, and the continuous supply of "secondary" air will contribute to the afterburning of the released gases. But for a fully-fledged process, one more important condition is still missing - high-quality thermal insulation of the secondary afterburner chamber, since certain temperature conditions are necessary for the combustion process of gases.

1 - air channel in the combustion chamber, through which blowing is carried out with the furnace door closed;

2- zone of the most active heat exchange;

3 - ascending flow of hot gases.

Video: a variant of the simplest rakten furnace from an old cylinder

Improved Rocket Furnace Design

The design, intended both for cooking and for heating the room, is equipped not only with a furnace door and a second body, which serves as a good external heat exchanger, but also with an upper hob. Such a rocket stove can already be installed inside the premises of the house, and the chimney from it is brought out into the street. After carrying out such a modernization of the furnace, its efficiency increases significantly, since the device acquires a lot of useful properties:

Due to the second outer casing and insulating heat-resistant materials that thermally insulate the main furnace pipe (riser), hermetic closure of the upper part of the structure, the heated air retains a high temperature for much longer.

In the lower part of the body, a channel for supplying secondary air began to be mounted, successfully carrying out the necessary blowing, for which an open firebox was used in the simplest design.
The smoke pipe in a closed design is not located at the top, as in a simple rocket furnace, but at the lower rear of the case. Due to this, the heated air does not go directly into the chimney, but gets the opportunity to circulate through the internal channels of the appliance, heating, first of all, the hob, and then diverging inside the body, providing its heating. In turn, the outer casing gives off heat to the surrounding air.

This diagram clearly shows the whole process of the furnace operation: in the fuel hopper (pos. 1) there is a preliminary combustion of fuel (pos. 2) in the mode of insufficient air supply "A" - this is regulated by a damper (pos. 3). The resulting hot pyrolysis gases enter the end of the horizontal fire channel (pos. 5), where they are afterburned. This process takes place due to good thermal insulation and the continuous supply of "secondary" air "B" through a specially provided channel (pos.4).

Further, hot air rushes into the inner pipe of the structure, called the riser (pos. 7), rises through it under the "ceiling" of the body, which is the hob (pos. 10), providing its high-temperature heating. Then the gas flow passes through the space between the riser and the outer shell-drum (pos. 6), providing heating of the shell for further heat exchange with the air in the room. Then the gases go down and only after that they go into the chimney (pos. 11).

In order to achieve maximum heat transfer from the fuel and provide the necessary conditions for the complete combustion of pyrolysis gases, it is important to maintain the highest and most stable temperature in the riser channel (pos. 7) For this, the riser pipe is enclosed in another pipe larger diameter- a shell (pos. 8), and the space between them is tightly clogged with heat-resistant mineral composition(pos. 9), which will serve as thermal insulation (a kind of lining). For these purposes, for example, a mixture of kiln masonry clay with fireclay sand (in a ratio of 1: 1) can be used. Some craftsmen prefer to simply fill this space very tightly with sifted sand.

Increasing the efficiency of heat extraction in rocket stoves

To increase the efficiency of the rocket stove, other designs with more efficient heat extraction were developed, both for using the device in outdoor conditions and for indoor use - for space heating or water heating.

Stove stove

For cooking or preparing food for the winter, stoves are made that are arranged according to the principle described above, but have an expanded hob that allows you to install several containers at once.

In this model of a rocket stove, a vertical pipe with a top-loading firebox built into it with a door is located under the hob. Therefore, hot air heats it directly, and in order for the entire panel to be hot, the heated gases, gathering under the panel, are directed to a horizontal channel passing under its entire surface and connected to a vertical section of the chimney.

Additionally, the design is equipped with legs, which gives it stability and reliability. It should be noted that when such a stove is not used for its intended purpose, it can be used as a regular garden table.

In addition to this outdoor model, several types of structures have been developed for indoor use, allowing you to effectively heat rooms or heat water.

Rocket oven with water circuit

The rocket furnace with a water circuit consists of the following elements:

The furnace is installed on a solid concrete base, in order to avoid distortions and deformation of structures.
The lower part of the structure, which includes the furnace compartment (pos. 2) and the fire channel, is laid out from fireclay bricks (pos. 1). The furnace has a vertical loading. At the bottom there is an ash pan (pos. 3) with a side door for regular cleaning of the furnace from accumulated ash.

The vertical channel (riser) (pos.4) is made of steel pipe, which is put on in a thick layer of thermal insulation (pos. 5) and an outer metal case.
A heat exchanger assembly with a water jacket in the walls (pos. 6) and horizontal plates creating a kind of labyrinth (pos. 7) is hermetically fixed on top of the outer casing to ensure maximum heat exchange area and time.

Attempts are being made to install a water register in this place. However, as practice shows, this approach is impractical - the temperatures here due to the afterburning of pyrolysis gases are very high, and the pipe register has every chance of quickly burning out.

Hot air, passing through the heat exchanger, bending around the metal plates, heats the entire massive block, and the metal gives off heat to the water circulating through the water jacket.
Further, the cooled gas flow goes into the chimney (pos. 8).
Water circulation occurs through a heat accumulator (pos. 9), which may well be made from an old boiler or other closed container with valves for connecting cold and hot water. The option of connecting a heating radiator is not excluded, although, in truth, such a furnace is unlikely to justify itself in such a role.
Hot water from the heat storage tank through a pipe connected to it (pos. 10) can be directed to the points of water intake for domestic needs.

Such a rocket stove is perfect for installation in a country house or in a private house, where it is possible to connect such a heat storage tank to the system. autonomous water supply. The stove will help to significantly reduce the cost of heating water and heating, since this model does not require a large amount of solid fuel or connecting it to some additional energy sources.

Rocket stove with bench

Another way to effectively use a rocket stove is to equip a fairly massive structure with a heated bench. It should be noted that such a bed can take the form of a bed or a sofa, successfully replacing these pieces of furniture, since by laying a mattress on its surface, you can comfortably settle down for a day or night rest. The bed can be made of brickwork or stones and clay mass.

The design of this version of the rocket furnace consists of the following components and elements:

A lid-closed furnace with vertical fuel loading with a secondary air intake chamber located in its lower part.
The furnace passes into a horizontally located fire channel, at the end of which pyrolysis gas is burned.
The hot gas flow rises along the vertical channel (riser) to the hermetically sealed "ceiling" of the housing, where it gives off part of the thermal energy to the horizontal stove - the hob. Then, under the pressure of the hotter gases following it, it diverges into the heat exchange channels, giving off heat to the surfaces of the drum, and goes down.
In the lower part of the furnace there is an entrance to the horizontal pipe channels that run under the entire surface of the bed. Moreover, one, two or more turns of a corrugated pipe can be laid in this space, in the form of a coil, through which hot air circulates, heating the bed. This heat exchange pipeline is connected at the end to a chimney pipe led out through the wall of the house.

It should be noted that in the case of making a bed made of brick, the channels can also be laid out of this material, without the use of metal corrugated tubes.
The heated stove and stove bench, giving off heat to the room, in themselves will serve as a kind of “battery”, capable of heating an area of up to 50 m².

The metal drum of the furnace can be made of a barrel, a gas cylinder or other durable containers, and also made of bricks. Usually the material is chosen by the craftsmen themselves as far as financial possibilities and convenience of work.

A rocket stove with a brick bed looks neater and is somewhat easier to install than a clay version, but the material costs will be about the same.

Video: one more original solution increasing the heating efficiency of the rocket furnace

We fold a rocket stove with a stove bench out of brick

What is needed for work?

The brick heating structure proposed for execution is designed on the principle of a rocket stove. The size of the structure with standard brick parameters (250 × 120 × 65 mm) will be 2540 × 1030 × 1620 mm.

It should be noted that the structure is, as it were, divided into three parts:

The furnace itself - its size is 505 × 1620 × 580 mm;
Furnace compartment - 390 × 250 × 400 mm;
Bed 1905 × 755 × 620 mm + 120 mm headrest.

For laying the furnace, the following materials will be required:

Red brick - 435 pcs.;
Blower door 140 × 140 mm - 1 pc.;
Cleaning door 140x140 mm - 1 pc.;
The furnace door is desirable (250 × 120 mm - 1 pc.), Otherwise there is a risk of smoke in the room.
Cooking stove 505 × 580 mm - 1 pc.;
Rear metal panel-shelf 370 × 365 mm - 1 pc.;
Asbestos sheet 2.5 × 3 mm thick to create a gasket between metal elements and bricks.
Chimney pipe, 150 mm in diameter, with a 90 ? outlet.
clay and sand for mortar or a ready-made heat-resistant mixture. It should be noted here that for 100 bricks laid flat, with a joint width of 5 mm, 20 liters of mortar will be required.

The design of this top-loading rocket furnace is quite simple, trouble-free and efficient in operation, but only if its laying is done with high quality, in full accordance with the order.

In the absence of experience in the work of a bricklayer and stove-setter, but a great desire to independently install such a heating device, it is worth making sure, and for starters, lay down the structure “dry”, without mortar. This process will help you figure out the location of the brick in each of the rows.

In addition, in order for the seams to be of the same width, it is recommended to prepare sizing wooden or plastic slats for masonry, which will be laid on the previous row before laying the next one. After setting the solution, it will be easy to remove them.

Under the laying of such a furnace, it is necessary to have a flat and solid foundation. Despite the fact that the design is quite compact, and its weight is not as large as, for example, that of a Russian stove, a floor made of thin boards is not suitable for its installation. In the event that the floor, although wooden, is very durable, before starting laying under the future furnace, it is necessary to lay and fix heat-resistant material, for example, asbestos 5 mm thick.

Ordering a brick rocket stove with a stove bench:

Illustration	Short description operation being performed
	The first row is laid out solid, and the brick must lie in strict accordance with the pattern shown in the diagram - this will give strength to the entire base. For masonry, 62 red bricks are required. The diagram clearly shows the connection of all three sections of the furnace. The corners on the side bricks of the facade of the firebox are cut off or rounded - so the design will look neat.
	Second row. At this stage of the work, internal chimney channels are laid, through which the gases heated in the furnace will pass, giving off heat to the stove bench bricks. The channels are connected to the combustion chamber, which also begins to form in this row. The first brick of the wall separating the two channels under the stove bench is cut obliquely - this “nook” will collect unburned combustion products, and the cleaning door installed opposite the bevel will allow it to be easily cleaned. For laying a row, 44 bricks are required.
	On the second row, the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are mounted, which are necessary for periodically putting the ash chamber and internal horizontal channels in order. The doors are fixed with wire, which is twisted on the ears of the cast-iron elements, and then laid in the seams of the masonry.
	Third row. It almost completely repeats the configuration of the second row, but, of course, taking into account the laying in the dressing, and therefore it will also require 44 bricks.
	Fourth row. At this stage, the channels passing inside the couch are blocked with a continuous layer of bricks. A furnace opening is left, and a channel is formed that will heat the hob and discharge combustion products into the chimney. In addition, a rotary horizontal channel is blocked from above, which discharges heated air under the stove bench. For laying a row, you need to prepare 59 bricks.
	Fifth row. The next step is to cover the couch with a second cross layer of bricks. The chimney ducts and the furnace also continue to be removed. For a row, 60 bricks are being prepared.
	Sixth row. The first row of the headrest of the couch is laid out, and the part of the stove begins to rise, on which the hob will be installed. It still has chimneys. For a row you need 17 bricks.
	Seventh row. The laying of the headrest is being completed, for which bricks cut obliquely are used. The second row of the base under the hob rises. For masonry, 18 bricks are required.
	Eighth row. The construction of the furnace with three channels is being laid. It will take 14 bricks.
	The ninth and tenth rows are similar to the previous, eighth, laid out in the same way, alternately, in dressing. 14 bricks are used for each row.
	11th row. Continuation of masonry according to the scheme. This row will take 13 bricks.
	12th row. At this stage, a hole is formed for installing the chimney pipe. The hole brought under the stove is supplied with a brick cut obliquely for a smoother flow of heated air into the adjacent channel leading to the lower horizontal channels located in the bench. 11 bricks were used per row.
	13th row. A base is formed for the slab, and the central and side channels are combined. It is through it that hot air will flow under the stove, and then flow into a vertical channel leading under the stove bench. 10 bricks are laid.
	13th row. On the same row, the basis for laying the hob is being prepared. To do this, along the perimeter of the space in which two vertical channels were combined, heat-resistant material - asbestos - is laid.
	13th row. Then, a solid metal plate is laid on the asbestos gasket. In this case, it is not recommended to install a hob with opening burners, since when they are opened, smoke can enter the room.
	14th row. The arranged hole for the chimney pipe is blocked and the wall separating hob from the bed area. Only 5 bricks are used for a row.
	15th row. This row that raises the wall will also require 5 bricks.
	15th row. On the same row, in continuation of the back wall, next to the hob is fixed metal shelf which can be used as a cutting board. It is attached to brackets.
	15th row. The picture-scheme is well modeled how the hob can be used. In this case, the pan is placed exactly on that part of the stove that will warm up first of all, since a hot air stream will pass under it.
	After completion of all the work described in the order, a chimney pipe is built into the hole, from the back of the furnace, which leads out into the street.
	From the back, the design also looks quite neat, so it can be installed both near the wall and in the middle of the room. Such a stove is perfect for heating in a country house. If the stove and chimney are decorated finishing materials, then the building can become an original addition, and very functional, for any private house. As you can see, the corner formed under the cutting shelf is very convenient for drying and storing firewood.
	To fully consider the design, you need to see its projection from the end side.
	And the last figure shows well what should happen as a result of the work done, if you look at the stove from the side of the bench.

In conclusion, I would like to emphasize that the design of a rocket stove can be called one of the simplest and most affordable for self-manufacturing, in comparison with other heating devices. Therefore, if such a goal is set - to acquire a stove in the house, but experience in such work is clearly not enough, then it is best to choose this particular option, since when building it, it is difficult to make a mistake in the configuration of its internal channels.

Let's say right away: a rocket stove is a simple and convenient wood-fueled heating and cooking device with good, but not exceptional parameters. Its popularity is explained not only by the catchy name, but more so by the fact that it can be made with your own hands and not by a stove-maker or even a bricklayer; if necessary - literally in 15-20 minutes.

And also by the fact that, with a little more work, you can get an excellent stove bench in the house without resorting to the construction of a complex, expensive and cumbersome Russian or bell-type stove. Moreover, the very principle of the device of the furnace-rocket gives great freedom to design and the manifestation of creative abilities.

Rocket stove - wood-fired device

But perhaps more remarkable is the "jet furnace" by the huge number of associated, at times completely absurd inventions. Here, for example, are a few pearls snatched at random:

"The operating principle of the furnace is the same as that of the MIG-25 ramjet engine." Yes, the MIG-25 and its descendant MIG-31 did not sit down near the ramjet engine (ramjet), as they say, and did not sit down in the bushes. On the 25th and 31st there are bypass turbojet engines (turbojet engines), four of which then pulled the Tu-144 and still pull other cars. And any furnace with any jet engine (RD) is technical antipodes, see below.
"Reverse jet furnace". Is this a tail-first stove, or what?
“But how will she blow such a pipe?” A naturally aspirated stove does not blow into the chimney. On the contrary, the chimney pulls out of it, on natural draft. The higher the pipe, the better it pulls.
“The rocket stove is a combination of a Dutch bell-type stove (sic!) with a Russian stove bench.” Firstly, there is a contradiction in the definition: a Dutch oven is a channel oven, and any bell-type oven is anything but a Dutch oven. Secondly, the couch of the Russian stove warms up in a completely different way than the rocket stove.

Note: in fact, the rocket stove was nicknamed so because in the wrong firing mode (more on that later), it emits a loud whistling rumble. A properly tuned rocket stove whispers or rustles.

These and similar inconsistencies, of course, are confusing and prevent us from making a rocket furnace properly. So let's figure out what is true about the rocket stove, and how to use this truth correctly so that this really good stove shows all its advantages.

Furnace or rocket?

For complete clarity, we still need to figure out why a stove cannot be a rocket, and a rocket cannot be a stove. Any RD is the same internal combustion engine, only the outflowing gases themselves act as pistons, connecting rods with a crank and transmission. In a reciprocating internal combustion engine, already at the moment of combustion, the high temperature of the working fluid creates great pressure, which pushes the piston, and it already moves the whole mechanics. The movement of the piston is active, the working fluid pushes it to where it tends to expand itself.

When fuel is burned in the RD combustion chamber, the thermal potential energy of the working fluid is immediately converted into kinetic energy, like that of a load falling from a height: since the exit to the nozzle is open to hot gases, they rush there. In RD, pressure plays a subordinate role and nowhere exceeds a few tens of atmospheres, this, for any conceivable nozzle cross section, is not enough to disperse a flashlight to 2.5M or put a satellite into orbit. According to the law of conservation of momentum (momentum), an aircraft with a RD at the same time receives a push in reverse side(recoil momentum), this is jet thrust, i.e. thrust from recoil, reactions. In a turbofan engine, the second circuit creates an invisible air shell around the jet. As a result, the recoil momentum is, as it were, contracted in the direction of the thrust vector, so the turbofan is much more economical than a simple turbofan.

There is no conversion of types of energy into each other in the furnace, therefore it is not an engine. The stove simply distributes the potential thermal energy properly in space and time. From the point of view of the furnace, the ideal RD has an efficiency of 0%, because it just runs on fuel. From the point of view of a jet engine, the furnace has an efficiency = 0%, it only dissipates heat and does not pull at all. On the contrary, if the pressure in the chimney rises to or above atmospheric (and without this, where will the jet thrust or active force come from?), The stove will at least smoke, or even poison the residents or start a fire. Draft in the chimney without pressurization, i.e. without the expenditure of energy from the side, it is provided due to the temperature difference along its height. Potential energy here, again, is not converted into any other.

Note: in a rocket propellant rocket engine, fuel and oxidizer are fed into the combustion chamber from tanks, or they are immediately filled into it if the rocket engine is on solid fuel. In a turbojet engine (TED), the oxidizing agent - atmospheric air - is injected into the combustion chamber by a compressor driven by a turbine in the exhaust gas flow, the rotation of which consumes a certain fraction of the energy of the jet stream. In a turboprop engine (TVD), the turbine is designed so that it takes 80-90% of the power of the jet, which is transmitted to the propeller and compressor. In a ramjet engine (ramjet), air is supplied to the combustion chamber by hypersonic velocity pressure. A lot of experiments were carried out in the ramjet, but there were no production aircraft with it, there is not and is not expected, the ramjet is painfully capricious and unreliable.

Can or not can?

Among the myths about the rocket stove, there are not entirely absurd, and even somewhat justified. One of these misconceptions is the identification of the "racquet" with the Chinese kan.

As a child, the author had a chance to visit the Amur region, in the region of Blagoveshchensk, in winter. There were a lot of Chinese there in the villages even then, who were scrambled in all directions from the cultural revolution of the Great Chairman Mao and his completely frostbitten hungweibins.

Winter in those parts is not Moscow, frost at -40 is a common thing. And what struck and aroused interest in stoves in general was how Chinese fanzes were heated by kanami. In Russian villages, firewood is transported by carts, smoke is a pillar from the chimneys. And all the same, in the log hut, not in a children's girth, by morning the corners were frosted over from the inside. And the fanza is built like a country house (see the figure), the windows are covered with a fish bladder or even rice paper, bunches of chips or twigs are placed in the kan, but the room is always warm.

However, there are no subtle heat engineering tricks in the canal. This is the usual, only small, kitchen stove with a lower exit to the chimney, and most of the chimney itself is a long horizontal channel, a hog, on which a stove bench is arranged. Chimney, fire safety sake - outside the building.

The effectiveness of the kan is determined primarily by the thermal curtain it creates: the couch goes around, if not the entire perimeter from the inside, except for the door, then 3 walls for sure. What once again confirms: the design and parameters of the furnace must be linked to those of the heated room.

Note: The Korean ondol oven operates on the principle of a warm floor - a very low stove bench occupies almost the entire area of the room.

Secondly, in the very cold, the Kans were drowned with argal - dried droppings of ruminants, domestic and wild. Its calorific value is quite high, but argal burns slowly. In fact, an argal fire is already a long-burning stove.

It is not in the Russian custom to stick twigs into the oven every now and then, and our peasants abhorred cooking on animal feces. But travelers of the past highly valued argal as a fuel, collected it along the way and carried a supply with them, diligently protecting it from getting wet. N. M. Przhevalsky, in one of his letters, argued that without the argal, he could not have carried out his expeditions in Central Asia without loss. And for the British, who were disdainful of the argal, 1/3-1/4 of the personnel of the detachments returned to the base. True, he was recruited from sepoys, Indian soldiers in the English service, and pandits - spies recruited from the local population. One way or another, but the highlight of the rocket stove is not at all in the couch on the hog. To get to it, you will have to learn to think in an American way: all the primary sources on the rocket furnace are from there, and utter speculation is generated only and only by misunderstanding.

How to deal with rockets?

From our point of view, one should study the original technical documentation of rocket furnaces with caution, but not at all because of inches-millimeters, liters-gallons and the subtleties of American technical jargon. Although they also mean a lot.

Note: A textbook example is "Naked conductor runs under the carriage". Literary translation - a naked conductor runs under the car. And in the original article from Petroleum Engineer, it meant "Bare wire runs under the crane trolley."

The rocket stove was invented by members of survival societies - people with a peculiar way of thinking, even by American standards. In addition, they were not bound by any standards and norms, but, like all Americans, they always automatically converted everything into money, taking into account their own benefit; a person with a different worldview in America simply does not get along. And instinctive self-interest inevitably gives rise to egocentrism. He by no means excludes good deeds, but not out of a spiritual outburst, but out of the calculation of dividends. Not in this life, but in that one.

Note: How much the average inhabitant of the greatest empire in history is afraid of everything can only be understood by talking with them long enough. And sociopsychologists go out of their way there, convincing that living, languishing in fear, is normal and even cool. The rationale is clear: intimidated biomass is easily predictable and manageable.

Without heating and cooking, of course, you will not survive. What is an oven for? For the time being, for the time being, the survivors were content with camping stoves. But then, according to the Americans themselves, in 1985-86. they were greatly impressed by two films that were released with a short interval and triumphantly went around all the screens of the world: the Soviet science fiction parody of the entire human race "Kin-dza-dza" and Hollywood's "The Day After", about the global nuclear war.

The survivors realized that after the nuclear winter there would be no extreme romance, but there would be the planet Plyuk in the Kin-dza-dza galaxy. It will be necessary to be content with the newly appeared plukans "ka-tse" in small quantities, bad, expensive and difficult to access. Yes, all of a sudden someone hasn’t watched “Kin-dza-dza” - like a match in Plukansky, a measure of wealth, prestige and power. It was necessary to invent your own furnace, none of the existing ones is designed for a post-nuclear spit.

Americans are very often endowed with a sharp mind, but a deep one is found as the rarest exception. A completely normal and with an IQ above the average, a US citizen may sincerely not understand how it doesn’t reach another that he himself has already “caught up” and how someone else may not like what suits him.

If an American has already understood the essence of an idea, then he brings the product to its possible perfection - what if there is a buyer, you can’t sell raw iron. But the technical documentation, which looks beautiful and neat, can be drawn up in fact extremely carelessly, or even deliberately distorted. And what is it, this is my know-how. Maybe I'll sell it to someone. Whether there will be a plus, or not, but for now the know-how is worth the money. In America, such an attitude to business is considered quite honest and worthy, but there a clinical alcoholic at work will never miss a stopper and will not drag a couple of bolts home to the household. On that, in general, the whole of America stands.

And the Russian breadth of the soul is also a double-edged sword. Most often, our master simply understands from a sketch how this thing works, but in the details it turns out to be careless and overly trusting in the source code: how is it for a crafty brother to deceive his own. If you don't have something, then you don't need it. It seems clear how everything is spinning there - already my hands itch. And there, perhaps, until it comes to a hammer, chisel and related literature, still count and count. Yes, even important points may be omitted, veiled, or deliberately false.

Note: an American acquaintance once asked the author of this article - how did we, the really stupid ones, elect the very smart Reagan as president? And you, really smart, tolerate a slobbering senile with dyed eyebrows in the Kremlin? True, then in America no one in a bad dream would have imagined that in the next century a black citizen with a Muslim name would settle in the Oval Office, and his first lady would dig a garden near the White House and grow turnips there. Times is changing, as Bob Dylan once sang for a completely different reason ...

Sources of misunderstanding

There is such a thing in technology - the square-cube law. Simply put, when something changes in size, its surface area changes squarely, and its volume changes cubed. Most often, this means that changing the overall dimensions of the product according to the principle of geometric similarity, i.e. You can't just keep the proportions. With regard to solid fuel stoves, the square-cube law is doubly valid, because fuel is also subject to it: it releases heat from the surface, and its reserve is contained in the volume.

Note: a consequence of the square-cube law - any specific design of the furnace has a certain allowable fork of its size and power, within which the specified parameters are provided.

Why, for example, is it impossible to make a potbelly stove the size of a refrigerator and with a power of about 50-60 kilowatts that way? Because the potbelly stove, in order for it to somehow warm, must itself be heated inside to at least 400-450 degrees. And in order to warm up the volume of the refrigerator to such a temperature at a given heat transfer, firewood or coal needs as much as it does not fit in it. There will also be no sense from a mini-potbelly stove: the heat will leave through the outer surface of the furnace, which has grown relative to its volume, and the fuel will not give it away more than it can.

The square-cube law acts triple on the rocket furnace, because she is "licked" in an American professional way. With our kondachka, it is better to stay away from her. Here, for example, here in Fig. American development, which, judging by its demand, many of our craftsmen take as a prototype.

The original blueprint for the mobile rocket oven

With the fact that the exact grade of refractory clay (fire clay) is not indicated here, ours will sort it out. But, to be honest, who noticed that, judging by the absence of an external chimney and the presence of transportation holes (carrying pipe), this stove is mobile with an open firebox? And most importantly, the fact that a 20-gallon keg with a diameter of 17 inches (431 mm with change) went to her drum?

Judging by the structures from Runet, no one at all. They take this thing and adjust it according to the principle of geometric similarity to a domestic 200-liter barrel with a diameter of 590 mm on the outside. Many guess to arrange a blower, but the bunker is left open. Are the exact proportions of vermiculite with perlite for lining the riser and forming the furnace body (core) not indicated? We make the lining homogeneous, although it will be clear from what follows that it should consist of insulating and accumulating parts. As a result, the furnace roars, the fuel eats only dry, and a lot, and even before the end of the season, it overgrows with burning inside.

How was the rocket oven born?

So, already without fiction with futurology, the survivors needed a stove to heat the house, operating with high efficiency on low-quality random wood fuel: wet wood chips, twigs, bark. Which, moreover, will need to be reloaded without stopping the furnace. And most likely it will not be possible to dry in a firewood shed. Heat dissipation after heating needs at least 6 hours to get enough sleep; getting pissed off in a dream on Pluka is no better than in America. Additional conditions: the design of the furnace should not contain complex metal products, non-metallic materials and components that are required for the manufacture of production equipment, and the furnace itself must be available for construction by an unskilled worker without the use of power tools and complex technologies. Of course, no supercharging, electronics and other energy dependencies.

They immediately took a couch from the kan, but what about the fuel? For a bell-type furnace, it requires high quality. Long-burning furnaces work even on sawdust, but only dry, and do not allow shutdown with additional loading. Nevertheless, they were taken as a basis, they were very attracted by the high efficiency achieved simple ways. But in an attempt to make the "long stoves" work on bad fuel, another circumstance became clear.

What is wood gas?

The high efficiency of long-burning furnaces is achieved largely due to the afterburning of pyrolysis gases. Pyrolysis is the thermal decomposition of solid fuel into volatile combustible substances. As it turned out (and the survivors have their own research centers with highly qualified specialists), the pyrolysis of wood fuel, especially wet fuel, continues for a long time in the gas phase, i.e. The pyrolysis gases that have just been released from the wood still require quite a lot of heat to form a mixture that can burn out completely. This mixture was called wood gas, woodgas.

Note: in Runet, woodgas has created more confusion, because in American vernacular, gas can mean any fuel, cf. e.g. gas station - gas station, gas station. When translating primary sources without knowing the American technical, it turned out that woodgas is just wood fuel.

Before that, no one saw wood gas: in conventional furnaces, it is formed immediately in the furnace, due to the excess energy of fiery combustion. The designers of long-burning stoves came to the conclusion that the primary air must be heated, and the exhaust gases should be retained in a significant volume over a large mass of fuel, simply by trial and error, so they overlooked the wood gas.

It turned out not so when firing with bundles of twigs: here the primary pyrolysis gases were immediately dragged into the chimney. Wood gas could have formed in it at some distance from the furnace, but the primary mixture had cooled by that time, pyrolysis stopped, and heavy radicals from the gas settled on the walls of the chimney like soot. Which quickly tightened the channel completely; amateurs building rocket furnaces at random are well familiar with this phenomenon. But the survivors eventually figured out what was going on and made the right oven anyway.

Who are you, the Rocket Stove?

There is an unspoken rule in technology: if it seems that it is impossible to create a device according to the given requirements, then read, smart guy, school textbooks. That is, go to the basics. In this case, to the basics of thermodynamics. Survivors do not suffer from sick pride, they turned to the basics. And found main principle operation of his furnace, which has no analogues in others: slow adiabatic afterburning of pyrolysis gases in a weak flow. In long-burning furnaces, afterburning is equilibrium isothermal, requiring a large buffer volume, subject to the square-cube law, and the energy reserve in it. In pyrolysis gases in the afterburner expand almost adiabatically, but practically into free volume. And now - learn to think in an American way.

How does a rocket oven work?

The scheme of the final fruit of the labors of the survivors is presented on the left side of fig. Fuel is loaded vertically into the bunker (Fuel Magazine) and burns, gradually settling down. Air enters the combustion zone through the blower (Air Intake). The blower must provide an excess of air so that it is enough for afterburning. But not excessive cold air did not cool the primary mixture. With vertical loading of fuel and a blind cover of the bunker, the flame itself acts as a regulator, however, not very effective: when it flares up too much, it pushes the air out.

The device of rocket furnaces

Further things already non-trivial begin. We need to warm up, and with good efficiency, a large stove. The law of the square-cube does not allow: the meager heat will immediately dissipate so much that the pyrolysis will not reach the end, and the thermal gradient from the inside to the outside will not be enough to transfer heat into the room; everything will whistle through the trumpet. This law is harmful, you can't break it in the forehead. Okay, let's see in the basics, if there is anything there that is not subject to him.

But how, there is. That same adiabatic process, i.e. thermodynamic without heat exchange with environment. There is no heat exchange - the squares are resting, and the cubes can be reduced even to a thimble, even to a skyscraper.

Imagine a completely isolated volume of gas. Let's say it releases energy. Then the temperature and pressure will begin to rise until the energy release stops, and will freeze at a new level. Great, we burned the fuel completely, hot flue gases can be released into a heat exchanger or heat accumulator. But how to do it without technical difficulties? And most importantly - how, without violating the adiabat, to supply air for afterburning?

And we will make the adiabatic process non-equilibrium. How? Let the primary gases immediately from the combustion source go into a pipe covered with high-quality insulation with a low intrinsic heat capacity (Insulation). Let's call this pipe for ourselves a flame or a burning tunnel (Burn Tunnel), but we will not sign it (know-how! You can’t catch up - give money for consulting drawings! Without theory, of course. Who sells the fixed capital at retail.) On the diagram, so that not accused of "opacity", denoted by the flame.

Along the length of the flame tube, the adiabatic index changes (this is a non-equilibrium process): the temperature will first drop slightly (wood gas is formed), then it will increase sharply, the gas will burn out. It is possible to release it into the accumulator, but we forgot - what will pull gases through the flame tube? Supercharging means energy dependence, and there will be no exact adiabat, but something mixed with an isobar, i.e. the efficiency drops.

Then we will lengthen the pipe by half, keeping the insulation so that the heat does not go in vain. We bend the “idle” half up, making the insulation weaker on it; how to keep the heat seeping through it, we will think a little later. In a vertical pipe, a temperature difference will appear along the height, which means thrust. And good: the thrust force depends on the temperature difference, and with an average in the flame tube of about 1000 degrees, it is not difficult to achieve a difference of 100 at a height of about 1 m. So, while we have made a small economical potbelly stove, now we need to think about how to use it warmly.

Yes, it does not interfere with additional encryption. If we call the vertical part of the flame tube the primary or internal chimney (Primary or Internal Vent), then they will guess the main idea, we are not the smartest in the world. Well... let's call the primary chimney the most common technical term for vertical pipes with upward current - the riser (riser). Purely American: correct and incomprehensible.

Now let's recall the heat transfer after heating. Those. we need a cheap, always available and very capacious heat storage. There is nothing to invent here, the adobe (Thermal Mass) was invented by the primitives. But it is not fire resistant, it does not hold more than 250 degrees, and we have about 900 at the mouth of the riser.

It is not difficult to convert high-potential heat into medium-potential heat without loss: you need to give the gas the opportunity to expand in an isolated volume. But, if the expansion is left adiabatic, then the volume will need to be too large. And that means - material and labor intensive.

I had to bow to the basics again: immediately after leaving the riser, let the gases expand at constant pressure, isobarically. This requires heat to be removed to the outside, about 5-10% of the heat output, but it will not disappear and will even be useful for quickly warming up the room during the morning fire. And further along the course of gases - isochoric cooling (in a constant volume); Thus, almost all the heat will go into the battery.

How to do it technically? We cover the riser with a thin-walled iron drum (Steel Drum), which will also stop heat loss from the riser. The “drum” turns out to be a bit high (the riser sticks out a lot), but it doesn’t matter: we will cover it with the same adobe for 2/3 of the height. We attach a stove bench with an airtight chimney (Airtight Duct), an external chimney (Exhaust Vent), and the stove is almost ready.

Note: the riser and the drum that covers it look like a furnace hood over an elongated hail. But the thermodynamics here, as we see, is quite different. It is useless to try to improve the bell-type stove by building on a high loft - only the extra material and work will go away, and the stove will not get any better.

It remains to solve the problem of cleaning the channel in the couch. For this, the Chinese have to break the kan from time to time and remake it, but we are not in the 1st century. BC. we live when kan was invented. We will arrange a secondary ash pan (Secondary Airtight Ash Pit) with a sealed cleaning door immediately after the drum. Due to the sharp expansion and cooling of flue gases in it, everything in them that did not burn out immediately condenses and settles. The cleanliness of the external chimney is guaranteed by this for years.

Note: the secondary cleaning will have to be opened once or twice a year, so you don’t have to fool around with the latches. Let's make a lid sheet metal on screws with a mineral cardboard gasket.

small rocket

The next task of the designers was to create a small furnace on the same principle. continuous burning for cooking during the warm season. In the heating season, the drum cover (Optional Cooking Surface) of a large oven is suitable for cooking, it heats up to about 400 degrees. The small rocket stove was supposed to be portable, but it was permissible to make it with an open firebox, because. when warm, you can cook outdoors or under a canopy.

Here the designers took revenge on the square-cube law, forcing it to work for themselves: they combined the fuel tank with the blower, see Fig. at the beginning of the section on the right. It is impossible to do this in a large furnace, fine adjustment of the furnace mode as the fuel settles (see below) will be impossible.

Here, the volume of incoming primary air (Primary Air) turns out to be small relative to the heat release area, and the air can no longer cool the primary mixture until pyrolysis stops. Its supply is regulated by a slot in the cover of the hopper (Cover Lid). The 45-degree hopper optimizes the oven's auto-adjustment for standard cooking routines, but it's harder to make.

Secondary air for afterburning wood gas in a small oven enters through additional holes in the mouth of the riser or simply flows under the burner if there is a cooking vessel on it. If a small furnace is close to the limit size (about 450 mm in diameter), then an optional secondary woodgas frame may be needed for complete afterburning.

Note: It is not possible to supply secondary air to the mouth of the riser of a large furnace through the holes in the drum (which would increase the efficiency of the furnace). Although the pressure in the entire gas-smoke path is lower than atmospheric pressure, as it should be in the furnace, flue gases will be emitted into the room due to strong turbulence. Here their kinetic energy, harmful to the furnace, affects; this, perhaps, is the only thing that makes a rocket stove related to a jet engine.

The small rocket stove has revolutionized the class of camping stoves, especially camping stoves. A wood chip stove (a Bond stove in the West) will help to cook a stew or wait out a snowstorm in a one-two-man tent, but it will not save a group caught on a spring campaign by a belated bad weather. A small rocket furnace is only a little larger, it can be quickly made from nowhere, but is capable of developing power up to 7-8 kW. However, we will talk about furnace-rockets from anything we will talk further.

Also, the small rocket oven has spawned many improvements. For example, Gabriel Apostol provided it with a separate blower and a wide bunker. The result was a stove suitable for the device of a compact and rather powerful water heater, see the video below. The large rocket furnace was also modified, we will talk about this a little at the end, but for now let's dwell on more significant things.

Video: a water heater based on a rocket stove designed by Gabriel Apostol

How to fire a rocket?

A rocket furnace with long-burning furnaces has a common property: they need to be launched only on a warm pipe. For a small one, this is not essential, but a large one on a cold chimney will only burn fuel in vain. Therefore, a large rocket furnace, before loading regular fuel into the bunker after a long break in the furnace and kindling, must be accelerated - fired with paper, straw, dry shavings, etc., they are placed in an open blower. The end of acceleration is judged by a change in the tone of the hum of the furnace or its subsidence. Then you can load fuel into the bunker, and its ignition will occur by itself from the accelerating fuel.

The rocket furnace, unfortunately, does not apply to furnaces that are completely self-adjusting to the quality of the fuel and external conditions. At the beginning of regular fuel combustion, the blower door or the bunker cover in the small furnace is fully opened. When the stove hums strongly, cover it "to a whisper." Further, in the process of burning, it is necessary to gradually cover the access of air, guided by the sound of the stove. Suddenly, the air damper slammed shut for 3-5 minutes - it's okay, if you open it, the stove will flare up again.

Why such difficulties? In the process of burning the fuel, the flow of air into the combustion zone increases. When there's too much air, the furnace roars, but don't get excited: the excess air now cools the primary gas mixture, and the sound is amplified as the steady swirl in the riser clumps into a clump. Pyrolysis in the gas phase is interrupted, no wood gases are formed, the furnace consumes too much fuel, and carbon deposits from the soot cemented by bituminous particles are deposited in the riser. This, firstly, is a fire hazard, but most likely it will not come to a fire, the riser channel will quickly overgrow with soot completely. And how to clean it if you have a non-removable drum cover?

In a large furnace, a spontaneous change of regime occurs abruptly, when the top of the sticks drops to the bottom edge of the bunker, and in a small furnace, gradually, as the fuel mass settles. Since an experienced housewife does not leave her for a long time when cooking on the stove, the designers considered it possible, for the sake of compactness, to combine a bunker with a blower in it.

With a large oven, this trick will not work: a high riser pulls very strongly, and the air gap is needed so thin (and it also needs to be regulated) that it is impossible to achieve a stable furnace mode. It’s easier with a separate blower: the mass of fuel, rounded in section, is easier for air to flow around from the sides, a too-flamed flame pushes it there. The stove turns out to some extent self-regulating; however, within very small limits, so you still have to manipulate the blower door from time to time.

Note: for the sake of simplicity, it is impossible to make a bunker of a large furnace without a tight lid, as is often done. Due to the unregulated additional air flow through the fuel mass, it is unlikely that it will be possible to achieve a stable operation of the furnace.

Materials, dimensions and proportions, lining

Now let's see what a home-made rocket stove should be from the materials available to us. Here, too, we need to look back: not everything that is at hand in America is also with us, and vice versa.

Of what?

For a large stove with a bench, more or less reliable experimental data is available for products with a drum from a 55-gallon drum with a diameter of 24 inches. 55 gallons is 208-plus liters, and 24 inches is almost exactly 607mm, so our 200-litre is fine without additional conversion. Keeping the parameters of the furnace, the diameter of the drum can be halved, up to 300 mm, which makes it possible to make it from 400-450 mm tin buckets or a household gas cylinder.

Pipes will go to the blower, bunker, furnace and riser different sizes, see below, round or profiled. So it will be possible to make an insulating lining of the furnace part from a mixture of equal parts of furnace clay and fireclay crushed stone, without resorting to brickwork; we will talk about the riser lining in more detail below. Combustion in the rocket furnace is weak, therefore the thermochemistry of gases is gentle and the thickness of the steel of all metal parts, except for the gas pipeline in the stove bench, is from 2 mm; the latter can be made from thin-walled metal corrugated, here the flue gases have already completely exhausted both in terms of chemistry and temperature.

For external coating, the best heat accumulator is adobe. Subject to the dimensions indicated below, the heat transfer of a rocket furnace in adobe after combustion can reach 12 hours or more. Other parts (doors, covers) are made of galvanized metal, aluminum, etc., with sealing gaskets made of mineral cardboard. Conventional oven fittings are not suitable enough, it is difficult to ensure their tightness, and a slotted rocket oven will not work properly.

Note: it is desirable to equip the rocket stove with a view in the external chimney. Although the gas view in the high riser seals the common smoke path tightly, strong winds outside can prematurely draw heat out of the couch.

Dimensions and proportions

The basic calculated values to which the rest are tied are the drum diameter D and its cross-sectional area along the inside S. Everything else, based on the size of the available iron, is determined as follows:

Drum height H - 1.5-2D.
Drum coating height - 2/3H; for the sake of design, the edge of the coating of the design can be made oblique curvilinear, then 2/3H must be maintained on average.
The thickness of the coating of the drum is 1/3D.
The cross-sectional area of the riser is 4.5-6.5% of S; it is better to stay within 5-6% of S.
The height of the riser - the larger the better, but the gap between its edge and the drum tire must be at least 70 mm; its minimum value is determined by the viscosity of the flue gases.
The length of the flame tube is equal to the height of the riser.
The cross-sectional area of the flame tube (fire pipe) is equal to that of the riser. It is better to make a fire pipe from a square corrugated pipe, so the furnace mode will be more stable.
The cross-sectional area of the blower is 0.5 from its own firebox and riser. A more stable furnace mode and its smooth adjustment will be provided by a rectangular corrugated pipe with sides 2: 1, laid flat.
The volume of the secondary ash pan is from 5% of the initial volume of the drum (excluding the volume of the riser) for a furnace from a barrel to 10% of it for a furnace from a cylinder. Interpolation for intermediate drum sizes is linear.
The cross-sectional area of the external chimney is 1.5-2S.
The thickness of the adobe cushion under the external chimney is 50-70 mm; if the channel is round, it is considered from its lower point. If the bench is on wooden floors, the pillow under the chimney can be halved.
The height of the bed coating above the external chimney is from 0.25D for a 600 mm drum to 0.5D for a 300 mm drum. It can be less, but then the heat transfer after heating will be shorter.
The height of the external chimney is from 4 m.
Permissible length of the flue in the couch - see next. sec.

The maximum thermal power of a barrel rocket furnace is approximately 25 kW, and a gas cylinder furnace is about 15 kW. Power adjustment - only by the size of the fuel load. By supplying air, the oven is put into operation, and nothing more!

Note: In the original survivalist ovens, the riser cross-section was taken as 10-15% S, based on very wet fuel. Then, in the same place, in America, rocket stoves with a stove bench for a bungalow appeared, designed for air-dry fuel and more economical. In them, the riser section is reduced to the recommended ones and here 5-6% S.

Riser lining

The efficiency of the rocket furnace largely depends on the thermal insulation of the riser. But American lining materials, alas, are not available to us. In terms of stocks of high-quality refractories, the United States has no equal, where they are considered strategic raw materials and are sold with caution even to proven allies.

Of our available materials for heat engineering, they can be replaced with light fireclay bricks of the ShL brand and ordinary self-digged river sand with a large admixture of alumina, correctly laid, see below. However, these materials are porous, in the oven they are quickly saturated with soot. Then the stove will roar with any air supply, with all the consequences. Therefore, we need to surround the riser lining with a metal shell, and be sure to cover the end of the lining with furnace clay.

Lining schemes for 3 types of furnaces are shown in fig. The bottom line here is that with a decrease in the size of the drum, the proportion of its direct heat transfer through the bottom and the unlined part increases according to the square-cube law. Therefore, while maintaining the desired thermal gradient in the riser, the lining capacity can be reduced. This makes it possible to correspondingly increase the relative cross section of the annular descent of the flue gases in the drum.

Riser lining schemes in rocket furnaces

For what? Firstly, the requirements for an external chimney are reduced, since the outer traction pulls better now. And since it pulls better, then the permissible length of the hog in the stove bench falls more slowly than the dimensions of the furnace. As a result, if a stove from a barrel warms up a bench with a pine forest up to 6 m long, then half the size from a cylinder is 4 m.

How to line with sand?

If the riser lining is fireclay, then the remaining cavities are simply covered with building sand. River self-digging for lining entirely of sand does not need to be carefully prepared, it is enough to select large debris. But they pour it in layers, in 5-7 layers. Each layer is compacted and sprayed until a crust forms. Then the whole backfill is dried for a week, the upper edge is covered with clay, as already mentioned, and the construction of the furnace is continued.

balloon rocket

From the foregoing, it is clear that it is more profitable to make a rocket stove from a gas cylinder: less work, fewer unsightly parts in sight, and the stove heats up almost the same. A thermal curtain or underfloor heating in Siberian frost will heat a room of 50 square meters with a power of 10-12 kW. m or more, so here, too, a balloon rocket turns out to be more profitable, a large one from a barrel rarely has to be launched on full power with maximum efficiency.

Craftsmen, apparently, also understood this; at least some. For example, here in Fig. - drawings of a balloon furnace-rocket. On the right is the original; the author, it seems, was wisely versed in the initial developments and, in general, everything turned out right for him. On the left - the necessary improvements, taking into account the use of air-dry fuel and warming up the couch.

Drawings of a rocket stove from a gas cylinder

A fruitful idea is a separate supply of heated secondary air. The furnace will be more economical and the flame tube can be made shorter. The cross-sectional area of its air duct is about 10% of the riser cross-section. The furnace always works with the secondary fully open. First, the mode is set with a primary valve; finely adjust the hopper cover. At the end of the furnace, the furnace will roar, but here it is not so scary; the author of the design provides for a removable drum cover to clean the riser. She, of course, should be with a seal.

Rockets from anything

Canned

Scheme of a rocket furnace from cans

Tourists, hunters, and fishermen (many of them members of survival societies) soon converted the small rocket stove into a camping stove made from empty tins. It was possible to reduce the influence of the square-cube to a minimum by applying a horizontal fuel supply, see the diagram on the right. True, at the cost of some inconvenience: the sticks need to be pushed inward as they burn out. But the furnace mode began to hold iron. How? Due to the automatic redistribution of air flows through the blower and over / through the fuel. The power of a jar rocket furnace is in the range of 0.5-5 kW, depending on the size of the furnace, and is regulated by approximately three times the amount of fuel loading. The basic proportions are also simple:

The diameter of the combustion chamber (combustion chamber) is 60-120 mm.
The height of the combustion chamber is 3-5 of its diameters.
The cross section of the blower is 0.5 from its own combustion chamber.
The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is not less than the diameter of the combustion chamber.

These proportions are very approximate: changing them by half does not prevent the stove from working, and the efficiency in the campaign is not so important. If the insulation is made of wetted sandy loam, as described above, the joints of the parts can simply be smeared with clay (left pos. in the figure below). Then the stove, after 1-2 fires, will acquire strength, allowing it to be transported without any special precautions. But in general, any of the improvised non-combustible materials will do the insulation, next. two pos. A burner of any design must provide a free flow of air, 3rd pos. A rocket stove welded from a steel sheet (right pos.) with sand insulation is twice as light and more economical than a potbelly stove of the same power.

Compact Rocket Furnaces

brick

Brick rocket stove

We will not expand on large stationary rocket furnaces: in them all the initial thermodynamics goes to pieces, and they are deprived of one of the main advantages of the original furnace - ease of construction. We will talk a little about rocket stoves made of bricks, clay or stone fragments, which can be made in 5-20 minutes when there are no tins at hand.

Here, for example (see the video below), is a completely thermodynamically complete rocket stove of 16 bricks laid dry. The voice acting is English, but everything is clear without words. A similar one can be folded from fragments of bricks (see Fig.), Cobblestones, fashioned from clay. For 1 time, a stove made of greasy earth is enough. The profitability of all of them is not so hot, the height of the combustion chamber is small, but it’s enough for pilaf or urgently to warm up.

Video: 16 brick rocket oven (eng)

new material

Scheme of the Shirokov-Khramtsov furnace

Of domestic developments, the Shirokov-Khramtsov rocket furnace deserves attention (see the figure on the right). The authors, not caring about survival in a plus, used a modern material - heat-resistant concrete, adjusting all thermodynamics to it. The components of refractory concrete are not cheap; a concrete mixer is needed for mixing. But its thermal conductivity is much lower than that of most other refractories. The new rocket furnace became more stable, and it became possible to release some of the heat outside in the form of infrared radiation through heat-resistant glass. It turned out a rocket stove - a fireplace.

Do rockets fly in the bath?

Isn't a rocket stove suitable for a bath? It seems to be possible to arrange a heater on the drum cover. Or flowing instead of a couch.

Unfortunately, the rocket oven is not suitable for a bath. To get light steam, the sauna stove must immediately warm up the walls with thermal (IR) radiation, and immediately, or a little later, the air, by convection. To do this, the oven must be a compact IR source and a convection center. The convection from the rocket furnace is distributed, and it gives little IR at all, the very principle of its design eliminates significant radiation losses.

In conclusion: rocket stove-makers

In successful designs of rocket furnaces, there is still more intuition than precise calculation. And therefore - good luck to you too! - a rocket oven is a fertile field for craftsmen with a creative streak.published

A rocket stove is a popular option when it comes to creating a do-it-yourself unit that can heat a room or become like a stove for camping. Drawings and diagrams of a similar design should be available to people who love tourism.

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It is not difficult to create a stove with your own hands - it will take a little time, suitable tools, materials that are resistant to open fire and strong heat. Such a stove has several features, differences that make the stove a profitable option for manufacturing.

A stationary camping rocket stove is installed as indoors (cottages, country houses) along the wall, and on a special platform, including in open space. Suitable for quality heating premises with an area of 45-50 m2 (taking into account the presence / absence of partitions, walls, separate rooms, ceiling height).

About design

The Robinson Rocket Furnace consists of the following elements:

Fuel tank.
A pipe for the removal of the generated smoke.

Design feature - the fuel bunker is located not only vertically, but also horizontally, at an angle. The method of placement depends on the desire of the person, the features of the structure in which the finished furnace will be installed.

It looks like a rocket stove from a pipe

It can also be used such an option in which the fuel bunker will be located between the chimney and two elements horizontal section pipes. This is done in order to lengthen the surface heated during the combustion of fuel, thereby increasing the efficiency and heating time of the room.

The usual schemes for creating furnaces are:

A firebox located vertically and connected to the chimney by a piece of pipe (its length may be different). The section connecting the elements is used for cooking (hob).
A firebox located directly next to the pipe (the scheme is used when the furnace must act as a heating unit).
A firebox fixed at an angle to the pipe (for the convenience of laying fuel in a special compartment).

The stove can have two fireboxes at once. Feature - their location on the sides of the structure in a vertical position. Pipes should be with a large section size. The purpose of the furnace is to heat a container with liquid, which is installed on a special stand (this option is used to supply hot water).

Design options

General principle of operation

The principle of operation of all types of construction - rockets is approximately the same:

Solid fuel (firewood) is put into the furnace.
Ignition is in progress.
In the process of heating under the action of a flame and combustion, gases are produced.
Their movement along the vertical section of the pipe begins.
The supply is provided by a special channel through which the “secondary air”, which is already heated, quickly moves.
The heated gases rise to the base of the tube.

The basic principle of operation is similar to pyrolysis boilers. As a result, the maximum possible temperature is reached at the exit from the furnace, in the upper part of the structure. It is also used for heating, heating water, cooking. For convenience, you can make a special platform for placing containers by attaching it to the top of the pipe.

A big and significant advantage for the user of a rocket stove is its efficiency - firewood, as well as other types of solid fuels, are consumed little, the efficiency is high (about 65%). In order to improve the quality of functioning, it is enough to throw sawdust, paper, branches or dry grass into the firebox.

The simplest version of the rocket furnace

A simple rocket-type camp stove is distinguished by ease of self-manufacturing, saving time and resources during use, compact size and dimensions. All work will take 2-3 hours to prepare tools and materials, which is very convenient in a hike or summer cottage.

A design feature that must be taken into account is that the lower part of the unit, which acts as the bottom of the fuel chamber (grate), must be made movable. This is done to facilitate the process of laying firewood and loading them into the furnace bunker.

If chips are used, then the sliding structural element is a convenient stand in the process of laying fuel in the furnace. Additionally, the movable part greatly facilitates the process of cleaning the unit from ash.

A simple rocket stove from a pipe

Preparation of materials

To make a rocket furnace, you will need to purchase:

A pipe with a square section (15 cm × 15 cm × 3, 40.5 cm) - 1 pc.
The pipe is also square in shape (it is optimal to choose 15cm × 15cm × 3, 30 cm) - 1 pc.
Steel strip (recommended dimensions 30cm × 5cm × 3 mm) - you need to buy 4 pieces of such elements.
Another version of a steel strip (with ideal parameters for work 14cm × 5cm × 3 mm) - 2 pcs.
Grid, also made of good metal (steel) (choose dimensions 30cm × 14cm) - 1 piece.

Additionally, you will need to buy a steel bar (3: 5 mm) - 2.5 meters in order to make the grate yourself if desired. A high-quality do-it-yourself Robinson oven is a minimal cost of finance, a little attention and time.

Tools

For all necessary work you will need:

Bulgarian.
Welding.
Metal scissors.

Drawing

Work is carried out according to the scheme and drawing indicated below:

Drawing of the simplest rocket furnace from a profile pipe

Manufacturing instructions

All creation work heating device should be carried out in stages. The guide to action consists of several steps that must be followed sequentially:

Square pipes must be cut into blanks of the size required according to the drawing.
Make markings on them, taking into account the fact that one of their edges will need to be cut off (the cut angle is 45 degrees). The work is done by a Bulgarian.
The resulting pipes will need to be carefully welded - the result should be a design that resembles a boot in shape.

When making a Robinson oven with your own hands and using drawings, it is important to follow the recommendations on the dimensions of the parts that are contained there. The next steps will be:

Cuts are made (on top of the pipe or on its sides) - the dimensions are 20 mm deep and 3.5 mm wide (a stand for installing containers will be installed in them).
A steel strip (which has parameters of 30cm × 5cm × 3 mm) 1 piece from the purchased ones must be cut exactly in half.
Mark the second remaining strip of steel (also with parameters 30cm × 5cm × 3 mm) exactly in the middle.
Weld to it for high-quality performance of all stages of work, elements on both sides of the cut strip (a cruciform shape should be obtained).
Steel strips (dimensions to be chosen 30cm × 5cm × 3 mm) - the remaining 2 pieces and the remaining pieces 14 cm long, a frame is welded that will be retractable.
The elements are not welded side by side, but overlapped.

On top of the already finished frame, using a spot welding machine, a finished grate (purchased additionally / specially) or parts of a good steel rod cut to the desired length are attached. The distance at which the parts are attached is 1 cm. Then, a stand is installed on top of the pipe, the grate is pushed into the furnace hopper. The main work on the production of the furnace can be considered completed.

Now comes the stage of verification and test behavior. It is required to put a little solid fuel into the furnace and melt the furnace, if there are no problems in its operation, you need to wait until all structural elements have cooled completely. Finally, the furnace can be painted to protect the parts from corrosion. For this, heat-resistant paint is used. You can increase the comfort of operation by welding a handle to the combustion chamber door.

Oven "Robinson"

Convenient and functional, the Robinson Rocket Stove is an excellent option for use on a hike or in the country. It is also not difficult to make it using drawings and diagrams. With your own hands, you can easily create a unit that will be very similar to the factory one.

Oven "Robinson"

materials

To make a quality heating product on your own, you will need to purchase the following materials:

Sheet of steel (for the manufacture of the body of the furnace hopper with a size of 15 cm × 10 cm × 30 cm) - 1 piece, thickness 3 mm.
Plates made of high-quality steel (at least 3 mm) material parameters are 30 cm × 15 cm - you will need to take 2 of them.
Strong steel plates with indicators of 10cm × 30 cm - according to the classic version of the project, 2 pieces are required.
Plates, also made of good steel 10 cm × 15 cm - 1 piece.
Metal plate parameters: 15cm × 20cm × 3 mm - 1 piece (for making a blower).
A pipe with a diameter of 10 cm (height 60 cm) - 1 piece (metal).
Segments from reinforcement with a diameter of 7 or 8 mm - 1.2 meters (required for the manufacture of a grate grate).
Rings with a diameter of at least 3 cm - 3 pcs.
Vertical riser (10 cm) - 1 pc.
Ring with a diameter of 11 cm - 1 pc.
Nuts (part value d13 is selected) - 3 pieces.
A piece of steel pipe with a thread - they are needed for work 3 pcs.

Tools

Bulgarian.
Welding.
Marker.
Metal scissors.

You also need to have protective goggles and gloves.

Drawing

Do-it-yourself Robinson camp stove is assembled according to the following drawing:

Drawing of the Robinson furnace

Step-by-step instruction

All major work will require accuracy, attention, but will not take much time - about 3 hours with preparation. The main actions involve the following steps:

Preparation of a plate that will separate the firebox from the blower in the finished structure - you will need to weld pieces of reinforcement to it (a distance of 1 cm from each element) - as a result, you get a grate.
For convenience, a grate is attached to the plate available among the materials for manufacturing, after which, using a welding machine, you need to securely attach the received element to the side and rear walls of the future furnace. Feature of the work: before starting welding, you need to step back from the bottom along the edge of 30 cm.
The next step in the work is welding the corner elements of the joints of the rear and side walls of the combustion chamber.
Then the bottom of the chamber is welded.

After these stages, you should proceed to the final steps. Here, actions such as attaching nuts are performed, which are needed to make the oven stand stably. Further, legs are attached to them, if desired. Then the actions are:

The firebox cover, if it is provided for by the selected drawing option, is attached to the body (welding is used).
The next step is marking the pipe (for this purpose, you will need to use a bright metal marker).
After that, a cut is made at an angle of 30 0 (a regular oval is obtained in outline).
Each of the mandatory pipes from the set of materials must be attached with an oval-shaped hole exactly to the middle of the roof of the structure.
You will need to circle the pipe (with a marker).
The resulting pattern is needed in order to cut a hole along its contour (work is carried out using welding, the voltage may need to be increased).
Then a pipe is welded into the resulting hole, it must be placed vertically according to the scheme.

At the end, the legs are attached (optional), the first test run is carried out (with a minimum of a solid fuel element). If you want to paint the structure, then before that you need to completely cool the entire structure.

Finished homemade oven "Robinson"

Design improvement

A convenient do-it-yourself Robinson camp stove assembled according to the scheme can be improved.

The first thing that can be done is to weld a door with a handle to the main structure in order to be able to control the amount of heat generated or the amount of firewood in the firebox. It will not open to the side, but up.

The best option is to make a damper that will open in several positions:

down or left;
then to the right.

Such a damper must be installed in the corners welded in advance on the walls, the dimensions are selected 1X1 cm or, as an option, to increase -1.5 cmX1.5 cm.

Additional ways to improve the Robinson furnace - increasing the thickness of steel for the combustion chamber with 3 to 5 mm.

For a section where labor passes vertically, a square rather than an oval hole can be used.

The stand and legs can be created from various materials, using the most convenient options.

The last thing you can do is weld a wide metal plate to the firebox or attach metal corners to the pipe to put a water container on them. This way you get a rocket stove with a hob.

Rocket stove with hob

Antoshka oven

This popular version of the tourist-camping type of stove will require a little more time for independent production. The rocket stove of the Antoshka model is distinguished by its convenient design. A feature of this type of furnace is the presence of an additional plane heated during the operation of the unit.

It is also a stand for a container (hob) and an amplifier for heating the room. Therefore, the Antoshka stove can be used to provide hot water country house or tourist camp.

Antoshka oven

materials

In order to make the stove yourself, you need to purchase the following set of materials:

Square pipes (with material parameters of 15 cm × 15 cm × 3 mm. The length is also taken into account, which in this option should be 40.5 cm) - 1 pc and (15 cm × 15 cm × 3 mm, also the length of the element is 18 cm) - 1 pc and (10 cm × 10 cm × 3 mm, with a product length of 60.5 cm) - 1 pc.
Plate metal / steel (30cm × 15cm × 3 mm) - 1 pc.
The plate is also made of good, heat-resistant metal (the parameters should be as follows - 15cm × 15cm × 3 mm) -1 pc.
High-quality metal corner (5 cm × 5 cm × 3, length 30 cm) - 1 pc.
Larger metal corner (5cm × 5cm × 3, length 40.5 cm) - 1 pc.

Additionally, reinforcement / rod with a diameter of 8 mm is required, the length of the material in this embodiment is 30 cm - such rods will need to be purchased 4 pcs.

To make a grate with your own efforts, you will need reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm, its length is 17 cm - 8 pieces. It is important not to forget to purchase triangular metal scarves that you will need to use to install the hob, the steel in them should be 3 mm - 2 pieces.

Tools

To carry out all the necessary work, you will need, as in the previous version:

Bulgarian.
Welding (for reliable fastening of all elements).
Marker.
Scissors for metal (for working with small elements).

You also need to have protective goggles and gloves.

Manufacturing steps

To make the Antoshka oven, you will need to do:

Mark the pipe available in the materials (place it vertically).
Then make neat cuts on it, performing them at an angle of 30 0.
Cut a hole in the back of the pipe intended for the firebox, the size of which is 12 × 10 cm.

Second part of work:

At the bottom of the element, it is also important not to forget to cut a hole, the size of which will increase slightly and will be 15 × 15 cm according to the drawing.
Next, you need to connect these two elements.
The rear wall of the firebox must be welded with a plate prepared in advance for this, made of fire-resistant and high-quality steel.

After that, segments of metal rods must be welded to the lower hole of the Robinson rocket furnace variation from the outside. The distance at which the work is carried out is 1-1.2 cm. Further work involves the following actions:

For the manufacture of such a part of the heating unit as the blowing chamber (air intake), a segment of 18 cm in size is used, which is part square pipe. Without it, the operation of the furnace as a whole is not allowed for safety reasons.
It needs to be cut at an angle of 30 0 (as a result, the size of this part of the structure is 10 × 18 cm).

The resulting part should have a bottom and two walls. It is best to put it on stands - this is how comfort is achieved for subsequent work. They are made of metal corners, attached by welding to the bottom of the structure.

Firebox future furnace(upper hole) - the pipe available in the material package is welded to it or otherwise attached (if there is no welding). It is important to fix it in a strictly vertical position. It is important to remember here that maximum accuracy is required.
Triangular-shaped products made of metal (it’s better not to save on quality here) must be placed on edge, which will increase the stability of this part of the structure to create the necessary combination of elements.
Then they are welded / attached to the pipe and additionally to the top of the structure.
The creation of the unit continues by welding a plate measuring 3 dm × 1.5 dm × 3 mm to the edge of the furnace hole, which is located at the top (front in relation to the master doing the work).

The final part of the creation: you need to weld corners to the top of a vertically located pipe - this will be a stand on which a container is installed for cooking or heating food. The reinforcement must be bent (90 0 - semicircle), the resulting corners are welded to the pipe on four sides at a distance of 30 cm from each other.

Conclusion

Robinson oven has various options for the manufacture of. This is not only a good option for heating a small house or camping campsite, but also a real hob that can provide hot food. Additionally, using a DIY Robinson stove, which has a mount for a water tank, you can provide hot water.

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