How to insulate a frame garage. Do-it-yourself garage insulation from the inside is the protection of your car. Insulation of a metal garage

It is desirable to maintain an optimal microclimate in the garage. If you manage to competently insulate the building, you will significantly reduce heating costs, while the conditions will be quite comfortable for work, technical inspection and car repair. For example, in unstable weather with average temperatures in spring and autumn, you will not need to take care of heating at all, and in cold winters, energy consumption will be much less. Optimal solution - . It is this method that is quite popular, trusted even by experienced motorists.

The secret of foam plastic is its economy and high efficiency as a heater. This can also save you money on construction works, since the owners of the garage will be able to cope with the installation of such a layer of insulation on their own. Today we will learn in more detail how to insulate a garage with polystyrene foam, how it is better to work with the material, how its varieties differ from each other.

Creation optimal conditions in the garage is of great importance. For example, if there are severe colds, and the surfaces are not insulated, the gates can become covered with a large layer of frost. To improve conditions, it is necessary to insulate walls, gates, and not close ventilation. After all, it is thanks to the ventilation openings that excess moisture leaves the room, the formation of condensate and metal corrosion are prevented.

Experts note that in the garage it is desirable to maintain a temperature of at least five degrees Celsius. At the same time, ventilation must also be ensured.

Why styrofoam? Material Advantages

What is the reason for the high popularity of this material? Why do many far-sighted motorists choose to insulate the garage with polystyrene foam? Consider the key advantages of the material.

Styrofoam is a fairly economical insulation. In terms of price-quality ratio, it surpasses many other materials. For example, mineral wool he "overtook" by 50%.
It is quite convenient during the installation process. Even a person without the skills of a builder will be able to cope with the sheathing of the garage with foam sheets.
In terms of its properties, the material in many respects not only resembles the popular mineral wool, but also surpasses it.
The water resistance of this type of insulation plays an important role, since it is in the garage that there is a high probability high humidity but this must be dealt with. After all, condensate is very dangerous for the car, its metal parts. Just with foam, corrosion can be prevented.

Some are confused by the fact that the foam is still a combustible material. And fuel and lubricants are almost always present in the garage. But here the solution is very simple. Now they produce special brands of this insulation, which already contain fire retardants. Such additives provide attenuation, allow you to achieve the proper level fire safety.

Varieties of foam

We will try to learn more about the material and its types, their technical features, advantages and disadvantages, differences. When considering the insulation of the garage with polystyrene foam, it is important to choose the most suitable type of material. Features of the varieties mainly depend on the category of the polymer, because it is he who is the basic component insulation material.

Styrofoam

The most popular, widely demanded type of foam is polystyrene foam. It is quite often used for thermal insulation of garages inside and out. Expanded polystyrene can be extruded, non-pressed and pressed.

When it comes to the insulation of a garage room, in which there are special requirements for the level of fire safety, it is advisable to choose the PSB-S brand. Such material does not support combustion, is resistant to elevated temperatures, and contains effective flame retardants. Besides, given material is safe from an environmental point of view, does not emit toxic substances into the environment.

Let's outline the key advantages of expanded polystyrene.

The material is resistant to the negative effects of chemicals, aggressive environments.
The insulation is not afraid of insects, fungus.
Affordable cost matters a lot.
Processing polystyrene foam is easy.
The level of thermal conductivity is minimal.
It has good soundproofing properties.
It has good resistance to moisture, steam, practically does not pass water.

When Styrofoam is produced conscientiously, it is virtually non-toxic.

Penoizol

Penoizol is a more modern building material. Now he is better known as liquid foam. With its properties, it differs from the usual plates of heat-insulating material, since it is customary to manufacture it right at the construction site. For this, special foam generators are used. When the mixture of insulation is whipped, it is filled with prepared cavities. Then the material hardens. You can make briquettes in advance if you first pour the mixture into prepared forms.

Unfortunately, from an economic point of view, some difficulties may arise with such material, since it can hardly be called budgetary. You will have to competently knead the composition in compliance with the technology, use special equipment. And this will require additional investment.

However, the benefits of penoizol are significant.

Liquid foam guarantees high level thermal insulation. It is this material that has the highest performance in terms of heat resistance among other types of foam.
The minimum service life of the insulation is, according to the most conservative estimates, 40 years.
Of particular importance is complete environmental safety.
The material will allow without additional investments to ensure fire safety, since it does not support combustion.
Penoizol has an increased resistance to biological and chemical negative influences.
Such a heater allows you to maintain a good microclimate in the room due to optimal moisture permeability.

Note! It is necessary to purchase penoizol from reliable, well-established suppliers in the construction market, since this effective material is often faked, violating the technology in the underground production process.

polyurethane foam

This is material from the largest number since. It is famous for its unique adhesion. Usually polyurethane foam is applied by spraying directly onto the walls.

Here are the important advantages of polyurethane foam.

The thermal insulation layer is continuous, seamless.
The space is used rationally, since this heat-insulating material takes up a minimum of space.
The service life is at least 70 years.
The material is non-toxic, environmentally friendly.
With sharp temperature changes, it retains its properties.
Possesses the increased resistance to mechanical influences.

The main disadvantage is the need to use special equipment for applying the material.

Styrofoam insulation outside

A good solution is to use foam as an external insulation. Then cold bridges are not formed in winter, the formation of condensate is prevented. When foam is used for internal insulation It is extremely important to ensure that the room is well ventilated.

Preparing the work surface

Do you have a brick garage? Then the foam will fit just perfect. It will prevent weathering of the seams, extend the life of the walls, improve sound insulation and minimize heat loss. Styrofoam is also perfect for garage rooms made of other building materials.

Before warming, all work surfaces must be prepared. Walls, ceilings, gates must be cleaned of dust, dirt, old plaster. The base under the insulation layer must be clean, durable. Then the foam will be able to fix well. All cracks, chips must be covered with a layer of plaster in order to achieve evenness of the surface.

We mount the foam

When the walls of the garage are insulated from the inside with foam, it is important Special attention devote to the installation of the material. The thermal insulation properties, as well as the service life of the coating, will largely depend on this.

When concrete or brick walls are insulated, 25-density foam with a thickness of 10 cm is usually used. Two layers of 5 cm can be applied. Longitudinal and transverse seams are tied up.

Here is an approximate algorithm of work. If necessary, it can be slightly changed, improved.

Pre-prime the surface to improve adhesion with the adhesive.
Apply glue with medium-sized "blots". You can use a notched trowel.
Sheets are pressed quite tightly.
Cover the wall from the bottom up.
Lay sheets of insulation in a checkerboard pattern.
Use planks attached with dowels to the surface.
Masonry elements are additionally fixed with plastic dowels when adhesive composition completely frozen.

In general, installation is quite simple. The main thing is to be careful, to do everything more carefully so that the insulation layer is continuous.

Garage roof insulation

It also needs to be insulated. Unfortunately, many motorists forget about this. They prefer to make a kind of box out of heat-insulating material, and the roof is left unattended. As a result, you need temperature regime no longer achieve.

Here are some helpful tips.

If you are insulating the ceiling in the garage using foam, you should not drill holes for the bars. Better to use glue.
When the roof consists of reinforced concrete slabs, it is advisable to take care of external and internal insulation.
If you apply foam from the outside, you will have to additionally make a plaster screed. The best solution is to lay a waterproofing layer between the insulation and the plaster. You can use roofing material, film.
Is the crate cracked? Then fix the layers of insulation between the rafters. After that, you can use a waterproofing film.
Do you have a continuous crate, a good truss system? In this case, waterproofing is laid on top, and the insulation is fixed under the crate.
Waterproofing film requires careful attention. Make sure that it does not come into direct contact with the insulation layer if it has a reduced vapor permeability.

The best scheme for insulating the roof of a garage is as follows: waterproofing - thermal insulation - vapor barrier.

Insulating garage doors

It is very important to correctly insulate garage doors. Then there will be no problems with their freezing, the formation of cold bridges. It is also desirable to provide a small door in the gate. This will greatly increase energy efficiency, since it is impractical to run such a wide stream of cold air into the garage every time.

Remember the most important points.

First of all, exclude the influx of cold air through the cracks. All air gaps are eliminated. Joints can be removed using rubber seals, as well as self-adhesive tape.
Ventilation is of great importance. Excess moisture must be eliminated so that condensation does not form, leading to metal corrosion. Good air circulation will eliminate all problems. Please note: there must be special protective nets on the ventilation openings, which will become a reliable barrier to insects, rodents and birds.
If you insulate the gate with polystyrene foam, you should take additional care of aesthetics. For example, use as facing material lining, plastic panels.

Good in the garage will prevent temperature fluctuations, eliminate the possibility of the formation of cold bridges. This is of particular importance in winter time when the air temperature is extremely low, and the gates are so frosted over that it is even difficult to open them.

Video: learning to insulate walls in the garage

Want to know more useful information about the inside? Then this video is definitely for you.

In this video, all the useful information, tips are presented clearly, in the most accessible form.

Attempts to heat the garage without complex insulation lead to one disappointing result - the money spent on heating literally flies out into the chimney, and it does not get warmer in the box. In an unheated building, things are no better - the temperature inside does not differ from the conditions "overboard". But every start of the engine at -20 ° C leads to the same wear as a run of 600 km. To create comfortable conditions in the garage even in winter, you will have to take care of reliable thermal insulation. This is the only way to cut off the cold outside and keep the heat inside.

Insulation options for garages built from different materials

To choose one or another garage insulation technology, you will have to weigh the many pros and cons, “try on” various insulating materials to the features of the building and your own wallet. It will also be required thermotechnical calculation, taking into account the climate in the region, the thickness and material of the enclosing structures. For example, walls made of aerated concrete blocks with a large number of air pores in themselves have good resistance to heat loss. At the same time, metal frame buildings are seriously losing in this regard.

There are three options for insulating a garage:

external;
internal;
combined - the most effective and expensive.

Insulation along the facade is vital for buildings that are prone to accumulate moisture: wooden frames and garages made of porous concrete blocks. In a good way, metal boxes also need to be insulated from the outside, since their dew point always turns out to be inner surface. But it is difficult to do such work on your own, so we will consider this option as an exception to the rule.

It would be right to insulate the garage from the outside - this is the only way to take the dew point outside the building envelope and protect them from soaking when condensation forms

It is also desirable to protect brick and concrete buildings from the outside, but thermal insulation from the inside is cheaper - the right of choice remains with the owner. Here it is necessary to additionally take into account the safety of the materials used for the human body. Of course, there are no absolutely harmless among them - even natural wood is processed chemical impregnation- but you need to strive for it. The safest products are well-known brands that monitor the maximum allowable concentrations of phenols, formaldehydes and styrenes in their materials.

If you use an unheated garage during the winter, internal thermal insulation is still needed. Otherwise, you get a simple canopy with a gate that protects the car from the rain, but not from the cold. But you can refuse external insulation.

Separately, it is worth considering the insulation of the roof of the garage, since a lot of heat is lost through it.. It all depends on the design and availability of the attic. Possible options for roofs of different configurations:

Flat or with a slight slope allows the laying of insulation from above. It is better to use rigid foam boards or extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), and waterproofing from above with roll materials.
The pitched roof is insulated with the same foam or mineral wool laid between the rafters. The latter option is preferable, since it does not require particularly precise sizing and additional fasteners.
In a garage with a cold attic, you can line the ceiling with glass wool rolls - you get reliable and budgetary thermal insulation. The main thing that roofing material well protected it from getting wet, and ventilation ensured the removal of accumulated moisture.

We also allow the option of insulating the ceiling in the garage. The same materials are used here as for wall insulation: mineral wool, rigid polymer plates. This solution allows you to create a continuous "warm" contour without gaps and cold bridges. But it is necessary that from the side of the room it is closed by a vapor barrier that cuts off moist air. Additional waterproofing from above is required.

Having decided on the insulation technology and the features of the enclosing structures of the garage, it is already much easier to choose the material. For example, for a metal box, foam spraying or the formation of a “sandwich” using foam is ideal. Walls made of aerated concrete with a thickness of 300 mm are enough to finish the outside with warm perlite plaster. But most buildings allow the use of simple and cheaper technologies. We offer a kind of TOP of popular types of thermal insulation with a calculation of their number and associated costs for budgeting.

Styrofoam and extruded polystyrene foam

These two related heaters differ from each other in both characteristics and price. But the technology of working with rigid polymers remains unchanged, so we will consider them as one material. Styrofoam is sold in flat sheets of various thicknesses, so all you have to do is calculate the surface area and add 10% waste to calculate the amount you need.

The most reliable is the insulation of structures with foam plastic in two layers. Laying thin slabs with overlapping seams provides wind protection.

Calculation example:

It is necessary to insulate 50 m 2 of walls with foam plastic plates 10 cm thick.
For a two-layer installation, 100 m 2 of hard polymer is needed, but already 5 cm.
Taking into account the margin for trimming and waste, we accept 100 + 10% \u003d 110 m 2.
The largest PSB-S foam sheets are standard size 1000x1000 mm - they will need 110 pcs.
Extruded polystyrene foam has a smaller area of 1200x600 mm (0.72 m 2), that is, it already needs 153 pieces - these are incomplete 20 packs of 8 sheets.

For fastening, you need special glue and polyurethane foam to seal the seams. Dry adhesives are sold in 25 kg bags and have an average consumption of about 4 kg / m 2, that is, in our case, 400 kg or 16 packages of the mixture will be needed. Polyurethane-based adhesive foam is bought at the rate of one bottle per 10 squares - a total of 10 units plus mounting gun.

For reliable adhesion, the area of \u200b\u200bthe adhesive mass after pressing the sheet should occupy 30-40% of the foam surface. In the case of adhesive foam, strips with a width of at least 6–7 mm are applied for this.

As for the consumption of mounting foam for sealing joints, it all depends on the density of laying the insulation panels, as well as the quality of the edges. In addition, this composition is ideal for correcting all the flaws in the insulating layer, so more may be required. Minimum flow for our example - 2 cylinders (about 60 liters of foam). But often the actual volume of the composition at the exit does not correspond to what is stated on the package, plus part of it is outside and must be removed, so this figure should at least be doubled.

This category includes both basalt slabs and cheaper fiberglass. The latter has a very limited scope, since the density of the material is low, and under load it quickly loses volume. The maximum that glass wool is capable of is the insulation of horizontal and flat-slope surfaces from the inside.

Basalt wool is available in a wider range, so it can be used on almost all surfaces, if you choose the right material:

Internal insulation attic floor(e.g. in a garage with attic floor) allows the use of light inexpensive rolls with a density of 30 kg / m 3.
The walls are sheathed from the inside with mats weighing 45–60 kg / m 3.
For systems hinged facades boards with a density of about 70 kg / m 3 are suitable.
External insulation for plastering is carried out with two-layer sheets with a more rigid weaving of the upper fibers with a density of 90 kg / m 3.
Flat roofs for welded insulation or thin screed require the use of expensive boards from 110 kg/m 3 and above.

Mineral wool insulation is not the cheapest option for a garage. But if the building is adjacent to a residential building, it is better to use it for fire safety purposes.

As in the case of foam, laying wool is recommended in two layers, so that the area of insulation when calculating materials is multiplied by 2. In addition, you will need a waterproofing film 200 microns thick and a vapor barrier. Their dimensions will be larger, since all seams must be made with an overlap of 10–15 cm.

Mineral wool insulation usually does not require the use of any fasteners - it is simply inserted into wooden frame from a beam. Here it will take a lot. The length of the lumber is determined by the dimensions of the protected surface, that is, the height of the walls or the length of the slopes of the sloping roof. The number of bars depends on the installation step - it should be 1–2 cm less than the width of the mineral insulation. The “wet” method of insulating the outer walls of the garage does not provide for the construction of a crate - basalt slabs are glued with a special compound applied to their surface. The average consumption of the finished mixture is 9–10 kg / m 2.

When gluing the facades with mineral wool, additional fixation of the plates with dowel-fungi is performed - 5 pieces for each sheet

Mineral thermal insulation in the case of a garage is not suitable only for the floor, although in residential buildings this option is perfectly acceptable. But in boxing, it is impossible to provide it with sufficient protection against moisture, from which the insulation quickly loses its properties and becomes unusable.

"Highly specialized" heaters

Styrofoam and mineral wool choice insulating materials in our market is not limited. However, the use of other heaters is not so widespread, as they have their drawbacks. However, they are also worth paying attention to, since in some cases the use of alternative species thermal insulation may be justified.

Expanded clay is an inexpensive bulk material that is suitable for filling into inter-wall gaps with two-layer masonry, as well as for installing a “warm” floor screed. It has high water absorption and average thermal conductivity of about 0.1–0.18 W/m∙°C.
Foam glass blocks are a good and resistant to many external influences heat insulator, but very expensive. In addition, glass foam blocks are not friendly with cement-based alkaline solutions (adhesives, plasters).
Fibrolite and arbolite are to a greater extent Construction Materials, which certainly have good heat-insulating characteristics (0.08–0.11 W / m ∙ ° С). It is better to provide for the use of cement-bonded particle blocks and slabs at the stage of construction, and then choose heaters for them.

Required Tools

At each stage of work on the insulation of the garage, you need your own set of tools. The list also depends on the selected material, but the main changes will affect cutting fixtures. For example, mineral wool is well cut with a construction knife, but with foam plastic it is easier to manage with a home-made "hacksaw" made of steel wire on wooden handles. You can, of course, use a jigsaw, but in this case the sheets will crumble a lot, so you have to work slowly. The rest of the tool kit is standard.

For surface preparation:

a hard synthetic brush (in some cases, a manual brush or cord brush for angle grinders);
grinder - to remove protruding reinforcement and large protrusions of the main surface;
narrow spatulas for sealing cracks.

For fixing the insulation:

drill / screwdriver;
construction stapler;
notched trowel or mounting gun for adhesives.

In the case when the insulation layer is laid in the crate, do not forget to pick up a tool for making the frame: a jigsaw for a wooden beam, a hacksaw, an angle grinder or scissors for a metal profile.

Instructions for self-insulating the floor in an unheated garage

Most cheap way insulate the floor in the garage - make an expanded clay pillow and pour it with concrete. True, in this case, the finished base will have to be completely disassembled, and the whole process will be time-consuming.

Work order:

Dig a pit in the ground to a depth of half a meter and line it with roofing material with a stop at the walls. Seal the waterproofing seams with bituminous mastic or simply solder.
To a height of 30 cm, fill the pit with expanded clay and cover it with reinforcing mesh.
cook concrete mortar and pour the screed of the required thickness. Try to make a base with a slope towards the gate to divert water.

Do not forget that when installing a concrete floor around the perimeter, it is necessary to leave expansion joints. Use a special PET foam damping tape for this.

Insulation for cement pouring can also be done using foam. It is not necessary to fasten it - it is enough to spread the sheets tightly on a leveled surface, covered with a film, and foam the seams. From above, perform waterproofing again, lay reinforcement and pour concrete mortar.

Under cement screed sheets with a density of at least 25 kg / m 3 are needed

Thermal insulation of the floor in the garage with a cellar

When it comes to a garage with a cellar arranged under it, floor insulation has to be done especially carefully. Much here depends on the design of the floor. Ideally, if it is wooden - the fight against excess moisture in the basement does not give a 100% result, and the array, unlike concrete, not only accumulates moisture, but also willingly gives it away.

The scheme of the insulated floor will look like this:

Waterproof insulation laid between the lags - the lightest foam will do, since there will be no load on it.
Diffusion membrane with one-sided permeability so that the wooden beam can "breathe" through it. At the same time, 10-15 cm lag at the ends remain free.
5 cm high batten - provides a ventilated gap above the insulation layer.
Draft floor from edged boards.

For a garage with a basement - the best option

Such a solution will cut off the cold coming from the basement, and let excess moist air into the garage. Here, ventilation ducts will already be put into operation, preventing dampness from accumulating and destroying wooden structures and the car itself. However, all lumber should also be protected from decay - for this they are treated with antiseptic impregnations and allowed to dry.

To provide better protection bases of the garage from the cold, you can make a “warm” blind area around the entire perimeter from the outside. It will shift the line of soil freezing, and under the building, even in winter, a positive temperature will remain.

Wall insulation with foam plastic from the outside: instructions and photo gallery

Traditionally, before starting work, we prepare surfaces for insulation: we remove exfoliating pieces, repair chips and potholes, and clean the walls from dirt. brickwork or concrete with their absorbent capacity must be additionally treated with a penetrating primer. After that, the insulation is performed in the following order:

Fix a metal corner at the bottom of the walls - it will serve as a support for the rows of foam.
Prepare the adhesive mixture according to the instructions on the package.
Apply the composition to each sheet in one of the ways shown in the photo.
This method is only suitable for polymer adhesives in cylinders. The glue is applied with a notched trowel in a layer of 3–4 mm.
"Blots" of glue should be evenly distributed on the sheet

Do-it-yourself insulation of the garage from the inside will help extend the life of the car. The need for such work arises through sharp temperature fluctuations, which lead to the appearance of condensate. The accumulated moisture settles on the machine, leads to a violation of the anti-corrosion coating. To prevent such situations, it is necessary to insulate the garage or install the heating system.

Why insulate walls

The enclosing structures of a building for a car are made of large-block materials, for example, cinder block or gas block, less often of brick. Depending on the method of laying products, the thickness of such walls will vary from 12 to 30 centimeters. This width is not enough to protect the room from the penetration of cold air. Even when installing a heating system, the difference between the air temperature outside and inside the building will lead to condensation.

There is no need to artificially raise the temperature in the garage to high levels. After hitting the car from a cold street in warm room condensation will certainly appear on its surface, which will lead to corrosion of the metal. The thermal insulation of the garage should be selected and laid in such a way that the difference in temperatures in the room and outside the window is minimal. Optimal performance+5 degrees is considered for a car.

Note! During the insulation of enclosing structures, motorists close up all the cracks, including ventilation holes. score exhaust pipes prohibited, they are used to remove accumulated moisture, help remove carbon monoxide from the room.

Types of thermal insulation materials for garage walls

In the modern construction market there is a huge selection of heaters. Consider the characteristics of the most popular thermal insulation materials:

Mineral wool is supplied to stores in the form of rigid mats with a density of up to 240 kg/m3. Such products are characterized by high resistance to fire, well pass water vapor through their structure (breathe). The only disadvantage of using basalt wool is the need for a vapor barrier film that will protect the product from getting wet. Under the influence of moisture, the insulation loses its properties.
Glass wool is considered a cheaper analogue of mineral wool. Such products consist of hard and prickly fibers, so you need to work with a heater with glasses and mittens. After getting wet, the mats get knocked down and become heavy, so glass wool must be protected from moisture penetration by laying special films or foil.
Styrofoam is considered the most convenient to use heat-insulating material. Products are not afraid of dampness, are easily cut into pieces with an ordinary hacksaw, and have an affordable cost. Garage insulation can be done using an analogue of polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, which will last up to 40 years. The main disadvantages of the products under consideration are combustibility, low resistance to sun rays. Styrofoam unprotected with plaster turns yellow and crumbles.
Another heater for the garage, warm plaster consists of vermiculite or Styrofoam balls. Such materials have good thermal insulation properties, but to obtain maximum effect a thick layer of mortar should be applied to the walls.

Wall insulation from the inside

The choice of insulation, as well as the technology of insulation of enclosing structures, will depend on the material from which the enclosing structures are made. Many motorists are interested in the question of how to insulate a brick garage. First you need to clean the surface of dust and dirt, mount the frame in which the thermal insulation will be laid.

The crate is made from a drywall profile. The guides are fixed on the wall with dowels, which are driven in every 30 centimeters. The distance between the guides must correspond to the width of the insulation boards. For finishing walls, you can use sheets of drywall or asbestos fiber. It is better to use the latest products, because they have a high degree of fire resistance compared to similar material.

Advice! Asbestos fiber is quite fragile, to prevent its destruction as a result of various mechanical influences, reduce the step between the frame guides.

Insulation of the walls of the garage from the inside is carried out using mineral wool or other products made in the form of plates. In this case, the mats are inserted between the guides, their position is fixed with the help of special hooks. After that, they proceed to the installation of a vapor barrier membrane, which must be joined to the cotton wool insulation.

We insulate the garage from the outside, using for this warm plaster or special paint. Carrying out such work shifts the dew point, which will protect the walls from moisture penetration and further freezing. The owner of the building must carry out the installation forced ventilation. Such a system is designed for intensive air exchange.

For insulation of metal walls, insulation of the garage with polystyrene foam is suitable. Expanded polystyrene plates are fixed to the base surface with an adhesive mixture. For reliable fixation of thermal insulation, it is necessary to pre-clean and degrease the metal. The sheets are fixed on the walls with the seams aligned, mounting foam is poured into the gaps. Styrofoam undergoes combustion, so a thin layer of plaster must be applied to its surface.

Metal garage walls are often insulated with polyurethane foam or special paint. In the presence of voids between the frame, insulation is carried out using penoizol. The liquid mass penetrates into the wall through special holes. The foam clings well to the surrounding surfaces, hardens, turning into high-quality and reliable thermal insulation.

How to insulate garage doors

Not everyone knows how to properly insulate a garage from the inside. Effective and reliable thermal insulation of the walls will not be enough, because a significant amount of heat escapes through the gate. The lack of insulation in this design will not allow the garage to warm up to the required temperature. At the initial stage of work, a hole is made in one of the wings and doors are inserted. To reduce heat loss, a thick fabric curtain is fixed in this place.

A transparent polyethylene film with a minimum thickness of 0.8 mm will help isolate the entire plane of the gate. This material is cut into strips 20-30 centimeters wide and fixed above the opening, so that the lower edge does not reach the floor surface by 1-2 centimeters. The strips are attached to wooden beam using stapler staples. Such a heater is very effective - at the entrance to the garage, the driver will see the surrounding space. In addition, narrow strips of polyethylene will smoothly flow around the car and return to their original position.

Some motorists insulate the garage door from the inside with foam. To do this, a crate of wooden bars is mounted on the inner side of the structure and the voids are filled with expanded polystyrene plates. To prevent the penetration of cold air through the gaps, the joints of the thermal insulation are glued with adhesive tape.

To eliminate drafts penetrating through the gate, it is necessary to replace the rubber seals. Condensation forms at the points of contact between the thermal insulation and the metal surface. To prevent destruction, steel is treated with paint or other anti-corrosion compound. Waterproofing substances are applied to other surfaces.

The wooden guide elements of the frame are coated with a primer or heated drying oil, which will protect the material from decay and the effects of fungus. After laying the foam, the surface is cleaned. Finishing the garage door is done with OSB boards or thin boards. It is not advisable to use moisture-resistant products for this, for example, GKL.

How to insulate a garage roof

If the building for the car is separate from the residential building or auxiliary buildings, in addition to the walls, the roof will also have to be insulated. This is due to the fact that warm air much lighter than a cold one, it will rise up and melt the snow, which will lead to a sharp temperature drop and condensation. We learned how to properly insulate a garage with inside, but the process of wall insulation is slightly different from roof insulation.

In the presence of a wooden ceiling, foam plates are used as a heater. Similar products fastened to the base with plastic dowels, umbrellas or ordinary nails. After that, the thermal insulation is covered with sheet materials, such as plywood. Such products are fixed with long screws.

If the walls of the garage are covered concrete slab, it is necessary to mount a wooden or metal carcass from aluminum profile. The guides are attached to the base surface with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into plastic dowels. After installing the frame, foam boards are laid. The joints of the material are sealed with adhesive tape, then the heat-insulating cake is pressed against the skin.

Important! Styrofoam is considered best material for roof insulation. In the case of using mineral wool, additional styling will be required. polyethylene film and vapor barriers.

Floor insulation

If the garage has a cellar for storing conservation, vegetables and fruits, there is no need to insulate the floor. In the absence of such an underground room, insulation is carried out without fail. The easiest way to insulate the floor is with foam boards. The whole workflow is as follows:

vacuum the base, clean it from dirt;
we lay roofing material or plastic film on the base;
we fix sheets of foam of maximum density (the thickness of the cake is not less than 10 centimeters);
we lay waterproofing material and reinforcing mesh;
we install beacons and fill in the leveling screed.

You can argue for a long time whether it is necessary to insulate the garage if it is not heated. Leaving discussions aside, in the article we will tell the adherents of the expediency of this event, how and with what materials the technical room is insulated from the inside.

External or internal thermal insulation - which is better?

When wall insulation is implied, it is equally possible to install heaters both from the inside and from the outside. But, considering the creation of a heat-insulating barrier for a technical room, which is a garage, we will bring cost minimization to the fore. External insulation of wall structures will always be more expensive, since the heat-insulating material requires mandatory protection with cladding or layered decorative plastering. From inside the garage, the insulation layer can be covered with a minimal finish, or left as is - the garage interior does not imply great aesthetic claims.

If the garage is attached to the house and has adjacent walls with the main building, it is logical to make the facade in a single external incarnation. In this case, you will have to do the insulation of the garage at the same time as the thermal insulation of the main building, so the question "from inside or outside" disappears by itself. It remains to solve the problem of thermal insulation of the ceiling. If the roof is shed, it will definitely be possible to insulate the ceilings only from the inside. When the roof involves the formation of an attic space, a layer of insulation can be laid on the floors from the outside - this will be easier and cheaper.

If the garage is a separate building, you want to insulate it, but with minimal cost, walls and ceiling are insulated from the inside. Walls - because it is much simpler, the ceiling - shed roof and in no other way. Using the example of such a garage building, we will consider ways to insulate structures that are in contact with the external environment.

Modern materials for thermal insulation measures

Before proceeding to practical action, you should choose the best insulation, having decided how to insulate the ceiling in the garage and walls. What do we have in the trading network from what would be suitable for our purposes?

Styrofoam is the most affordable and therefore the most popular insulation, especially for creating an external heat-insulating barrier. It is not recommended to use this material from inside residential premises, as it is combustible and at the same time extremely toxic. But it is quite suitable for a technical room, if you act correctly and limit the contact of the heat-insulating material with the electrical wiring as much as possible. The restriction for the use of foam from inside the garage will be the use of various stoves (potbelly stoves) in winter or electric heaters with an open helix.

More reliable in terms of fire safety a modified analogue of polystyrene - extruded polystyrene (foam). The material does not support combustion, although it can melt at high temperatures, releasing toxins into the air. From the point of view of thermal conductivity, foam plastic is similar to foam plastic, but at the same time it is much stronger, absolutely hydrophobic and more convenient to use. The disadvantage is that it is about twice as expensive as foam plastic with a density of 25 kg / m 3. If funds allow, it is more expedient to choose polystyrene - it does not crumble, is durable and garage conditions(humidity, temperature changes, possible mechanical damage) will transfer polystyrene much better.

There is only one option left that is acceptable for insulating the garage - mineral wool, intended for facade "wet" thermal insulation (for decorative plastering). You will need rigid mats with a density of at least 220 kg / m 3, sold in bales of several pieces. Rolled low-density mineral wool in a garage is not quite right (for walls), although it can be used to insulate the garage ceiling, subject to its subsequent cladding along the crate. Mineral wool does not burn, but when insulating walls, it is much more difficult than polymer insulation and requires mandatory plastering (high-density mats) and vapor barrier (loose roll material).

These heaters can be combined. Let's say the bottom row, where there is more humidity and the possibility mechanical damage, perform with rigid, moisture-resistant polystyrene, covering the rest of the area with more materially accessible foam. This move will not affect the thermal insulation in any way - the heat transfer resistance of these polymers is approximately the same.

Another option for a combination of materials. Insulate the main area with foam, in the same place where the wiring (electrical panel, sockets, switches) and, say, the pipe exit from the "potbelly stove", use non-combustible mineral wool. The latter is a little worse as a heat insulator (with the same thickness), but safety is higher, all the more so - about 10% of areas with higher thermal conductivity will not critically affect the overall insulation.

Protecting walls from external temperatures - a simple task for the craftsman

Consider the nuances of the process of thermal insulation of the inner surface of the walls, based on the use of the most probable material- polystyrene. To insulate the garage from the inside with this polymer, you must first select a fastener. This can be polymer cement glue or polyurethane foam in cylinders. The adhesive mixture is suitable only for main walls (brick, cinder block, foam concrete). Foam is more versatile - it sticks perfectly to any surfaces, including metal ones. If the garage is made of metal, the way out is simple - installing insulation with foam.

But there are two types of foam - a conventional sealant used to fill gaps when installing doors and windows, and a special compound designed for mounting polymer heat-insulating boards. Preference should be given to the second option - such a polyurethane composition is more rigid (durable) and practically does not expand (there will be no displacement of foam sheets under the pressure of an increasing volume of polymerizing foam).

Regardless of the fixing material chosen for the installation of foam plastic, the process of installing insulation boards is generally similar. There is a slight difference in surface preparation. If polymer cement adhesive is used, the wall is primed. To use the foam, it is not necessary to prime - it is enough to moisten the surface with plain water (for a metal structure, this rule is also relevant). For high-quality polymerization of any polyurethane compositions, the presence of water is necessary. The abundance of moisture will provide strong adhesion of the foam to the surfaces and a more rigid consistency of the cured polyurethane.

Polymer thermal insulation boards include such sequential actions.

1. Installation of foam begins from the bottom row in one of the corners. First, glue or foam is applied to the insulation board (around the perimeter and in the center), after which the sheet is glued to the wall under the control of direction (rule) and verticality (water level). The installation of the first element should be taken especially responsibly, "probing" the general direction so that the insulation array does not move away from the wall during further installation or rests against base surface. To facilitate the work, you can pull the orientation thread.
2. The next plate is similarly installed side by side, and so on to the opposite corner, where the last sheet will have to be cut to size (we use a construction knife or a regular hacksaw).
3. It is better to install the insulation in a circle, that is, install the first row around the perimeter, then proceed to install the second one. During the installation of the first row, foam or glue fixing the first installed elements, fully or partially seized. The second and third rows (there are unlikely to be more of them) are mounted so that the vertical seams do not match, if necessary, the plates are patterned to the required dimensions.
4. The remaining gaps between the sheets (their formation during installation is a normal process) are filled with mounting foam or pieces of foam (they will be in excess). It is not necessary to attract the plates with dowels - this additional type of fastener is used only for facade insulation.

How to deal with the surface finish of the insulation depends on the aesthetic preferences of the owner and the budget allocated for the event. Lots of options - from conventional plaster before the application of facade technology, tiling or plastic panels.

Insulated ceiling - the solution to half the problem

The garage ceiling, especially with a shed ceiling, is a huge thermal gap, without which the thermal insulation of the walls does not make much sense. Insulation of the ceiling in the garage from the inside is done using the same materials as for the walls, there are two options here, the choice of which depends on the floor material. If the garage is closed reinforced concrete slabs, the same technology is used as on the walls (gluing insulation).

When overlapping wooden structure it is better to make an additional crate, lay thermal insulation and sheathe it with suitable material (lining, decorative panels). How a budget option, you can pull polystyrene or foam plastic with umbrellas to the floor boards (the hat is cut off from the dowel and used in combination with wood screws), if insulation and savings come first, and aesthetics are far in the second.

If the ceiling is insulated in the garage with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene over a concrete floor, the process is generally similar to that described above for wall insulation. The difference is in the preference for this work of polymer cement glue, which makes it possible to immediately securely fix the polymer plates and put them in space in the desired position. Foam when working on the ceiling is less convenient. IN The second feature is that on the ceiling it is desirable to use additional fasteners in the form of umbrella-shaped dowels, especially if plastering or other finishing measures are planned for the installed insulation (additional weight).

If it is decided to create a crate and make not only warm, but also beautiful ceiling, when choosing a material for thermal insulation, mineral wool in rolls is a priority. Yes, you will have to protect it from the side of the roof with moisture-proofing, from the inside - with a vapor barrier film. But mineral wool of low density is not only a good heat insulator, but also perfectly dampens sound vibrations, which is very important for the roof (raindrops, especially hail, falling on the roof, create very loud noise in the absence of sound insulation).

How to deal with garage doors - an easy way, a great result

It remains to protect the gates from external temperature influences (meaning folding metal ones), which have a large area, therefore, they are a significant hole in the insulated garage building. Here, the surface can only be insulated from the inside, and the choice of heaters is slightly less. None of the varieties of mineral wool is suitable for these purposes, since the heat-insulating material can only be glued to the metal surface. In this situation, foam is best suited (the lightest and moderately plastic).

For gluing polymer insulation, two options are used fixing materials: the previously mentioned mounting foam and special glue (liquid nails). Foam in this case is less reliable, as it is rigid (in a frozen form) and tolerates vibration worse. Liquid nails based on plastic polymers are much more reliable, therefore, it is preferable for gluing foam to garage doors. The resulting gaps between the plates and the metal corner are also filled with glue.

Maintaining the right temperature in the garage is the key to a long service life of the car and other tools. In order to keep heat in such rooms as long as possible, it is necessary to properly insulate them, both outside and inside. Fortunately, today insulating the garage from the inside with your own hands has become a fairly simple matter. Almost every car enthusiast can do it.

In our country, most garages are a metal structure that is very difficult to warm up. No matter how actively such a room is heated, its heat loss will be maximum. For such structures, it is necessary to carry out insulation work in the first place.

If we consider a concrete or brick garage, then in such cases it will be much easier to insulate the garage with your own hands, and the result will be many times higher.

To an inexperienced layman it may seem that the main purpose of the thermal insulation works garage premises is an increase in temperature to room temperature (average +20). But such an opinion can certainly be called erroneous. The temperature that is considered comfortable for a person is not suitable for equipment and a car. Sudden thermal changes, when the car drives from frost to heat, cause condensation to form. The moisture that appears settles on the details of the car, which is critical for it. Therefore, the experts concluded that the result of the insulation of the garage should be a temperature of +5 degrees. This indicator is considered as close as possible to the ideal conditions for storing a car.

Another misconception of car owners is that before they insulate the garage from the inside, they close up all the holes and crevices in it that air could penetrate from the outside. At first glance, this decision may seem correct, but it is only at first glance. In fact, quite a lot of harmful substances which are considered hazardous to human health. The same substances are capable of releasing the materials themselves used for the thermal insulation of the garage. In addition, all the moisture that enters the room can only disappear through weathering. This state of affairs suggests that before insulating the garage with your own hands, it is necessary to build a decent ventilation system in it.

If we consider the question: “How to properly insulate a garage - from the outside or from the inside?”, Then the answer will be “Outside!”. The fact is that the insulation of the garage from the outside has a number of advantages over the internal insulation:

It does not steal extra centimeters of usable area;
It completely eliminates the risk of freezing of the premises;
It is not fraught with the influence of harmful substances emitted by heaters in an enclosed space.

All these arguments speak in favor of the external insulation of garage premises, but do not forget about financial side this question - warming the walls of the garage from the inside will cost a little cheaper. However, in this situation, excessive savings will be unnecessary, since we are talking about human health. As mentioned above, before insulating the garage from the inside, ventilation must be done. The second important issue is the materials - they are also not worth saving.

Many people ask the question: "How to insulate the walls in the garage inexpensively?". The answer is simple: “It is cheap to insulate a garage, but is it worth it?”. The fact is that good thermal insulation material will cost more. In addition, when choosing a heater for a garage, it is imperative to pay attention to its characteristics, which must meet specific requirements. After all, all garage rooms are different and each of them may need its own type of thermal insulation.

Here is a list of the main materials used in our country for garage insulation:

This type of thermal insulation has been used effectively for a very long time. Mineral wool allows you to protect the room from the cold, while allowing it to breathe. For garage walls, it is best to use basalt wool, which has the best sound and heat insulation characteristics. The big disadvantage of this insulation material is the fear of moisture. Therefore, when using it, it is necessary to ensure good vapor barrier.

You can also insulate the walls of the garage with the help of this material. Its advantage is its low cost. But glass wool also has a number of disadvantages. These include: the need for maximum protection of the whole body (especially hands and face) during work, the fear of moisture (wet material is not suitable for use) and mandatory isolation.

Today, this material is considered the most popular for insulating houses and garages. The advantages of polystyrene include its relative cheapness, ease of use, resistance to moisture, decay. But he also has his drawbacks - poor breathability, flammability and fear of sunlight. That is why it is better to insulate the walls inside the garage with polystyrene foam, but only special self-extinguishing polystyrene foam must be used for this.

This type of insulation is a roll of foil, on one side of which polyurethane foam is applied. A huge advantage of reflective insulation is its thickness, which allows you to save space inside the room. However, high hopes for this type of insulation should not be placed - the principle of its operation is based on the reflection of heat in its mirror surface, and with induction and convection in the garage, this principle is not effective.

This type of insulation is a plaster with various impurities (expanded polystyrene grains, vermiculites and sawdust) that give it a heat-insulating effect. However, it is worth noting that it is advisable to use this type of insulation only in addition to other heat insulators, since its independent use is impractical. To get the desired effect, you need to apply a very thick layer of insulating plaster.

This type of thermal insulation is also based on the addition of additional substances to the paint composition, which make it possible to retain heat inside the room. Thermal insulation paint can be used on wood, metal and plastic surfaces. Therefore, this type of insulation is ideal for wooden garage, as it will allow the tree to breathe.

Floor insulation

If the garage has a cellar or basement, then in this situation floor insulation will be redundant. If there are no such premises, then any insulation will need to start with floor covering. Consider the three most popular ways of thermal insulation of the floor.

Floor insulation with expanded clay

We are filming upper layer earth to a depth of 45 cm.
We lay out any waterproofing material (for example, roofing material) along the bottom of the formed pit in such a way that it finds another 10 cm on the walls.
Using a cement or gypsum mortar, we install beacons, which will serve as a level.
We fall asleep roofing material with expanded clay with a layer of 25-30 cm.
We remove the beacons and fill the places of their stay with expanded clay.
We lay a reinforcing mesh 10x10cm on expanded clay.
Installing new beacons.
We fill the floor with concrete screed.
Let the mortar dry and set (do not put pressure on the floor for at least a month).

Floor insulation with polystyrene foam under the screed

This type of thermal insulation will allow not to remove the top layer of the earth, but at the same time it will “steal” about 20 cm of height from the room.

Thoroughly clean the floor from debris and dust (preferably with a vacuum cleaner).
We cover the surface of the floor with any waterproofing material(roofing material or dense polyethylene).
We lay foam plastic at least 10 cm thick and C-25 density on the waterproofing. Styrofoam plates should fit as tightly as possible to each other.
We cover the foam with another layer of waterproofing.
We place a reinforcing mesh on it.
Doing concrete screed gender.

Floor insulation with polystyrene foam under a wooden floor

This method of insulation allows you to take away from the room only 10 cm of its height. For its use, you can use polystyrene foam of any density, but the boards should have a thickness of 5 cm. It is also necessary to stock up on a 5x5cm beam.

Thoroughly clean the floor surface from debris and dust.
We build logs from the beam, and between them we tightly lay the foam. The logs should be close to the wall.
We lay a waterproofing material on top of the polystyrene foam.
We cover the floor with a board.

Important! A grooved board is not suitable for such purposes - it needs a very rigid mount.

Wall insulation

There are several ways to insulate the walls of the garage - the choice will depend on the material from which the building was built. Insulation of a brick or concrete garage can be done using mineral or glass wool, polystyrene, for metal structures Styrofoam in slabs, foamed polyurethane foam or thermal insulation paint. Please note that you will most likely need to install .

Insulation of walls with foam plastic under plaster

We clean the surface of the wall from old coatings.
Align the walls with putty.
We prime them.
We nail a wooden plank to the wall, which will serve as a level.
We apply special glue to the foam (10 cm) pointwise or over the entire surface.
We press the polystyrene foam sheet against the wall and additionally fix it with several dowels.
We cover the fixed foam with a thick layer (25-30mm) of glue.
We drown the reinforcing mesh in the glue.
We plaster the entire surface of the wall.

Insulation of walls with foam plastic for drywall, wall paneling

We create on the wall a crate of timber or profiles with a step equal to the size of the foam sheet.
We fix the crate to the wall and ceiling.
We place foam sheets in the resulting windows and fix them with liquid nails.
We seal all the cracks with foam.
We sheathe the crate on the outside with drywall or clapboard.

Wall insulation with mineral wool

This technology is very similar to the previous one - we insulate the walls with the help of crates. The only difference is that the mineral wool on both sides must be carefully lined with waterproofing material.

Before you insulate the walls, it is also desirable to insulate the garage door. First you need to cut a gate in the gate - such a manipulation will help reduce heat loss in the absence of the need to leave the car. Then you can insulate the gate using the scheme used when insulating the walls:

We cover the gate from the inside with a layer of polyethylene;
We nail a wooden frame to them (it is advisable to treat the frame with drying oil or any other antiseptic);
We fill the frame with heat-insulating material;
We sew up the foam plastic with clapboard or plywood (something light).

To enhance the effect of thermal insulation inside the garage, just outside the gate, you can hang a polyethylene tape curtain.

The last step on the way to complete thermal insulation of the garage is the process of warming its roof.

If the roof of the garage is made of wooden planks, then you can attach the insulation directly to it with the help of nails or dowels - "umbrellas".

If the ceiling is made of concrete floors, then it is advisable to use the wooden frame already mentioned above. It is desirable to fasten the frame to the roof with metal corners or self-tapping screws, and the foam to it with adhesive tape or glue. The finished structure must be sewn up with any kind of material - drywall, lining, plywood.

As you can see from the article, it is not so difficult to insulate the garage. The main thing is that the master has patience, a small supply of funds and the right tool.