We warm the facade. Which insulation is better to choose for facade plaster and how to calculate the thickness of the insulation. Technology "Vinyl siding"

Finishing the terrace in a private house (photo)

The veranda is a small room attached to the house. It can be open or glazed (closed). It is used both for agricultural needs and for recreation. How to insulate a veranda winter residence from the inside with your own hands and what materials are best to choose for these purposes? Find out the answers to these questions below.

What to look for when warming the veranda from the inside?

Let's decide how to properly insulate will allow you to make it a full-fledged living space for the winter. You can use it absolutely at any time of the year. Before starting work, it is necessary to think over absolutely all the nuances: the option of insulation, material for thermal insulation, places for installing insulation. At the same time, it is possible to lay insulation from the inside and outside.

Insulation of the veranda wooden house possible subject to the following conditions:

Installation is possible only if there is good ventilation.
In cool weather, the heating should always be on in the veranda.
Additional wall insulation cannot exceed a thickness of 55 mm.

Modern in the interior

Overview of materials used for internal insulation

Now the construction market presents a wide variety of materials for thermal insulation of premises. They differ in performance and cost. So, let's figure out how to insulate the veranda from the inside?

Styrofoam is the most popular type of insulation in many areas of construction. It features light weight, good rigidity, stable performance even in long-term use, easy installation and can be installed with or without a frame. The disadvantages of polystyrene include its high fire hazard and attraction to rodents. This is a significant disadvantage for warming the veranda in a private house.
When using foam, there is no need to build another waterproofing layer.

Scheme of insulation of the walls of the veranda with foam
Penofol is recommended by many experts. This is a modern and high-quality thermal insulation material, it can be used in conjunction with other types of insulation or without them. Penofol is ideal for warming all buildings in a country house. It has a low vapor permeability. The material is environmentally friendly. It is possible to mount it yourself without any problems.
Floor insulation with penofol
Another popular heater - mineral wool. It can also be used to insulate any buildings in the private sector. It is possible to use mineral wool for rooms intended for winter use. To mount a heat-insulating layer of mineral wool, you will need to equip the frame. Such material, four to five years after installation, will lose its density, and this will inevitably lead to the loss of thermal insulation properties.
Basalt wool is an analogue of mineral wool. She also gradually loses thermal insulation properties. It differs from mineral wool in greater safety from an environmental point of view.
Expanded polystyrene combines all the advantages of foam insulation at once. It has good strength and is easy to work with. Even a novice in this business can equip a heat-insulating layer with expanded polystyrene. However given material has a high sound transmission.

Expanded polystyrene belongs to the category of non-combustible materials.
Glass wool surpasses all the materials listed above in terms of strength and elasticity. It can be purchased in roll form. Working with it is quite simple, but it is necessary to use means to protect hands, eyes and face, as well as respiratory organs. Therefore, along with glass wool, you will need to purchase goggles and a respirator. Glass wool has little strength, so it can sag a lot over time. Such material is absolutely fireproof.

We warm the closed veranda with our own hands

In this block, we will discuss how to properly insulate the veranda from the inside with your own hands. Consider the features of insulation of walls, ceiling, roof, floor, doors and windows. Before starting work, it will be necessary to purchase all materials and tools, seal windows and doors.

Preparatory work before insulation

There are many ways to insulate the veranda with your own hands. We will talk about the most popular methods among people. The list of required tools includes: stapler, construction knife, paint roller, hacksaw, paint brushes, screwdriver. In addition to the selected thermal insulation material, you will also need to buy: a door seal, mounting foam, vapor barrier film, self-tapping screws, gypsum, wooden beams.

When preparatory work finished, it's time to make a warm living room out of a cold veranda.

Wall insulation on the veranda

It is worth starting the insulation of the walls on the veranda with the installation of the frame (metal or wood). The wooden frame is made of slats and bars, and metal carcass made of galvanized profile. The latter is most suitable for the insulation of drywall structures. The technology for mounting the frame is the same when using the materials listed above and is as follows (an example of installing a wooden frame).

To mount the frame, you need to install the upper and lower wooden bars, filling the distance between them with the help of intermediate bars. They are mounted only horizontally.
Before mounting on the wall, the beam must be treated with an antiseptic to protect against rot and mold. Use mineral wool.
It is possible to fasten the frame to the walls of the veranda using self-tapping screws, a puncher and a screwdriver. In this case, the method of fastening the beam directly depends on the material of the walls.
Control horizontal mounting timber with the help building level. The width of the frame cells will always correspond to the dimensions of the insulation boards. In case of dense laying, you can reduce the spacing of the cells by 3 mm. During the installation of the frame, there should be no cracks and gaps. Stack insulation for the veranda entirely, removing all unnecessary only after installation. When the heat-insulating layer is installed in the crate, it will be necessary to pull the vapor barrier film with an overlap to the frame bars.
At the joints of the film, you need to stick a metallized adhesive tape. The procedure will protect the heat-insulating layer from moisture.
To improve the quality of insulation, you can install a gasket made of penofol between the wall and the heat-insulating layer.
The final step will be the installation of the frame skin, it will protect the inner layer and perform an aesthetic function. For these purposes, it is possible to use wooden lining, MDF panels or PVC panels.

Ceiling and roof insulation

Internal insulation of the veranda involves the obligatory laying of a heat-insulating layer on the ceiling. The principle of the work practically does not differ from the methodology of wall insulation. The main difficulty is that all installation work you need to carry out a canopy. Doing all this alone is almost impossible.

First, dismantle ceiling covering and apply a waterproofing film to the draft surface of the ceiling. Next, you need to build a frame from a bar according to the same principle as for walls. In the gaps between the bars, you can make a heat-insulating layer. The top is covered with a vapor barrier film. Finishing can be done using drywall or lining.

Most of the heat escapes through the roof. To reduce heat loss, high-quality insulation is required. To do this from the outside is possible only at the stage construction works. Roof work from the inside is only possible through the ceiling.

Floor insulation on the veranda

How and with what to insulate the floor on the veranda? One of the most popular plank floor installation schemes is as follows.

Fill the floor with expanded clay or small gravel.
Pour a small layer of sand on top and compact it.
Next do reinforcing mesh with a section according to your project.
A concrete layer with a thickness according to the project is poured from above.
After the floor has dried, lay a waterproofing layer, for example, roofing material.
On top of the roofing material you need to lay wooden logs impregnated with antiseptics.
Between the lags it is necessary to carry out a heat-insulating layer.
After insulating the floor on the veranda in a wooden house, you should proceed to laying the final coating.

Insulation of windows and doors

The best option is to install double glazing PVC. If this is not possible, then you can do the insulation of existing wooden frames.

Preparatory work should be carried out in the following order:

You also need to insulate door frame so that it does not pass through the joints to the veranda cold air. Do this with the help of batting: remove from the hinges and fill slightly protruding rollers from above and below, and then beat them tightly, securing with a stapler or small nails.

Heating options for a closed veranda in winter

Having answered the question of how to make a warm veranda with your own hands, let's look at the most popular and available options heating covered veranda in winter.

Insulation of the summer veranda - does it make sense?

To make out summer veranda a full-fledged room suitable for living in winter will require careful warming of the veranda with your own hands from the inside and outside. The only “viable” option is to make a frame or. But then you have to spend some money Money: first for the installation of double-glazed windows, and then for insulation using heat-insulating materials.

When insulating a summer veranda, it should be borne in mind that the installation of a heat-insulating layer leads to a shift in the dew point. This is the cause of the formation of fungus, mold. Therefore, it will be necessary to lay a waterproofing and vapor barrier layer

In the house - a great thing in the warm season. But with the onset of cold weather, the owners suddenly notice that the corners of the extension are frozen and blackened, the wallpaper is damp, and in general the veranda can no longer cope with the cold from the street. It's time to think about how to insulate the terrace next winter, especially if this part of the room is planned for living.

Summer veranda in the house - a great thing in the warm season

We solve the problem in a complex

It's a big deal, it requires a comprehensive approach. Simply put, you will have to insulate the veranda with your own hands from top to bottom, from the basement to the roof.

So that everything is at hand, we will prepare:

hammer;
nails;
putty with spatulas;
masking or construction tape;
roulette;
hacksaw;
screws and nails;
pencil.

To insulate the veranda, you will need a hammer, nails, putty with spatulas, masking or construction tape, a tape measure, a hacksaw, self-tapping screws and nails, a pencil

Materials will have to be purchased as the stages of work are completed.

We insulate windows and doors

Even in normal warm apartment the lion's share of the heat escapes if it comes through from the windows. On the veranda, all the more so, the windows give huge losses. If you have old wooden windows installed, do not skimp on new double-glazed windows, they are worth it. If it is not possible to replace the windows, the gaps in them should be sealed as much as possible. For this, ready-made adhesive strips of foam rubber or, at worst, masking tape are suitable, they can be used to seal windows and survive the winter. In old windows, you need to double-check the condition of the outer glazing beads, replace rotten or broken ones, put the glass on a sealant and press it with new glazing beads.

Ready-made adhesive strips of foam rubber are suitable for window insulation.

Doors should also be insulated in the first place, laying a special insulating strip of rubber or adhesive foam along the diameter.

ceiling insulation

It is very important to isolate the ceiling from the roof of the house. good insulation will help not only in the cold winter, but also save from the heat in the summer. It is usually cheap and easy to make. The easiest way is to plaster the ceiling, because plaster reduces the moisture content of the surface and creates an additional layer of insulation.

Choosing heat insulators, you need to give preference to non-toxic materials. Cardboard is effective, but it has bad qualities - it has excellent combustibility and absorbs moisture.

Vermiculite and other mineral wool have good insulating properties. These insulators are safe to use, do not burn, are affordable and always in stock. construction stores. It is convenient to use this insulation in the form of plates, but first you should lay a layer of vapor barrier in the form of roofing material.

Good insulation will help not only in the cold winter, but also save you from the heat in the summer.

One of better ways Ceiling insulation is called laying a foamed foil polymer, it is able not only to retain heat, but also not to let in moisture.

Layers of insulator are laid between the ceilings. Among the most exotic ways keep heat from being lost through the ceiling called plastic bottles. If you collect them, tie them tightly together and lay them in the form of mats over the ceiling, then they will become a kind of traps for the cold and create a barrier to heat loss.

We warm the bottom

Speaking of floors, we mean insulation from the side of the foundation - insulation of space near the ground, insulation of the foundation and the floor itself.

Step 1. Expanded clay-earth option.

Traditionally, making the foundation for the terrace, the owners of the houses continue the line of the old foundation. And it, as a rule, is brick or concrete. Having excellent strength, these materials suffer from one drawback - they are cold. Both the cement base and the concrete slab draw heat from the room. Thus, losses through the foundation base make up one fifth of all heat losses.

It is possible to isolate the veranda from the cold underground in a wooden house with a layer of earth or expanded clay. This is usually done during the construction of the terrace - along the line of the tape base, the middle is covered with insulation. At the same time, the earth is free, but it does not have very high thermal insulation properties. Expanded clay is expensive, but it has good properties keep warm.

It is possible to isolate the veranda from the cold underground in a wooden house with a layer of earth or expanded clay

Step 2. "Gray" the foundation.

In cold winters, the ground near the foundation freezes, causing it to shrink, and expand when it thaws. So the foundation “plays” several times during the winter, which leads to the formation of cracks and the destruction of the foundation in the house. To avoid this, you need to cut off the foundation base from contact with the outer layer of the earth. To do this, the foundation must first be dug to the very bottom. Then smear with bitumen or special bitumen-polymer mastic. Allow to dry and stick sheets of polystyrene foam or other heat insulator based on polystyrene on top. The foundation is covered with polystyrene sheets to the very top, including the basement. For work, polyurethane glue is used, while the sheets must be glued very carefully, pressing them along the edges so that the so-called cold bridges are not preserved and there is no moisture access to the base in the house.

IN Lately many types of sprayed insulation have appeared on the market for materials for construction work and repairs. This material is a polyurethane foam mass in cylinders, which gives a very good insulation effect. It is applied to the wall, and after spraying, the foam solidifies after some time, turning into a dense and durable crust. She has one minus - the price.

Step 3. We warm the floors.

In private households, there is an eternal problem - it blows from the underground, cold feet. Not without insulation. Usually the problem is solved by laying underfloor heating under the screed - electric or water. In an unheated extension, you have to solve the problem in a different way:

pour the underground with crushed stone, then pour sand and tamp everything;
lay a reinforcing mesh or metal bars on top of the sand; pour a small screed - no more than 5 cm;
coat the hardened cement with mastic to give water-repellent properties. Even easier - to lay roofing material, fastening the strips with bitumen mastic;
lay wooden logs impregnated with an antiseptic composition, and spread any of the heaters between the logs. Blow through the joints mounting foam.
Lay the floor from the boards, pre-treated with an antiseptic and dried.
Insulation. So that the boards do not rot from dampness, do not forget about the vents, they must be in the foundation and placed below the floor.

To make the walls warmer

The largest area of contact with cold is at the walls. You can insulate the veranda from the outside and from the inside. Insulation of the veranda from the inside is done if the building is finished outside with expensive quality materials which are a pity to open.

Insulation of the veranda from the inside is done if the building is finished on the outside with expensive high-quality materials that are a pity to open

How to insulate the veranda from the inside:

IN wooden walls oh, you need to close up all the cracks.
Fill the laths of the crate at intervals equal to the width of the insulation boards, this will allow you to sew the wall evenly and without gaps.
Attach a film for moisture insulation to the rails with a stapler.
If interior finishing with drywall is planned, then at this moment it is necessary to mount a crate of metal profiles.
Lay mineral wool slabs in the gaps of the profiles, you can use mounting dowel-umbrellas.
Fix the waterproofing film over the heat insulator with a stapler.
Mount gypsum boards on the metal profile.
Putty and paint the walls.

Outside insulation methods

If it is possible to insulate the walls from the street, then it is better to do so. Firstly, it will help to save the previously made interior decoration. Secondly, it is more profitable in terms of heat preservation. Such outdoor materials as brick and concrete not only do not heat, but under certain conditions are able to take heat from interior. Therefore, the task is to isolate more thermally conductive materials, such as brick, concrete, less thermally conductive, such as, for example, mineral wool, basalt or cellulose insulation foam or other polystyrenes.

You can insulate walls from the street like this:

fixing heat insulator plates with glue, followed by finishing with plaster;
installation of a three-layer non-ventilated wall (fixing the insulation on the wall with an air gap, laying in one brick);
installation of a ventilated facade (a layer is sewn onto the wall waterproofing material, then - a layer of insulation, wind protection and finishing in the form of siding or lining).

Modern production technologies building materials offer new developments for insulation, which may have their own installation conditions. Some of them, including ventilated facade technologies, allow insulation work to be carried out even in the cold season, as they do not involve the use of adhesives.

In the diagrams below you can see examples of how wooden, as well as brick and concrete walls.

Progress

Prepare the wall surface: remove completely old layer insulation or plaster, reaching a brick, block or wooden wall.
Level the surface. Seal the potholes with mortar, and clean the protrusions to smoothness.
Clean the walls of dirt and dust, prime the surface.
Set beacons, they will help determine the surface of the outer edges of the insulation.
To make it easier to navigate when installing insulation boards, it is recommended to make a control grid, for it, fill screws along the top of the wall, tie plumb lines to them, these will be vertical guides. Horizontal guides will be threads stretched horizontally.
Start installing tiles.

If you work with polystyrene foam, then laying should begin with the installation of a small lower shelf, the first sheet is glued to it. Next, the sheets are glued with an adhesive and alternately applied to the wall under level control. When the first layer dries, the next one is mounted, and the joints of the plates should be half displaced.

In the corners of the wall and near the windows, the foam plates are additionally fixed with a metal corner in all other sheets, the sheets are also fastened with anchors in the form of "fungi" - in the center and at the corners of the sheets. The joints of the plates are fixed with a reinforcing tape for plastering. Next, you need to fix the reinforcing mesh on the plates and you can start plastering work.

Important! Expanded polystyrene is good for insulating brick and concrete walls, however important condition the quality of work will be the preliminary drying of the wall. This will prevent the accumulation of moisture under the insulation layer. After all, as you know, polystyrene foam does not have good vapor permeability, so after you sew up the walls with insulation, it will be difficult to remove dampness from under the plates.

Warming with basalt, mineral wool or cellulose materials is carried out along the crate, which is mounted wooden slats. A prerequisite is that the sheets of insulation should be slightly larger, literally a couple of centimeters, than the cells of the crate. This will make the insulation tight, without gaps. Anchors are installed at the corners of the cells for better fixing of the insulation. On uneven wall it is better to use two-layer heaters. At the same time, a soft layer must be mounted against the wall, which will hide irregularities. A reinforcing mesh can be installed on top of the insulation layer and plastering work can be done (when using, for example, mineral wool). Or make a three-layer ventilated facade: fixing a film over the insulation as a windscreen, fill horizontal crate and then sheathe the walls with siding, clapboard, or overlay with bricks.

Below is a diagram of insulation with mineral wool slabs.

Scheme of warming the veranda with mineral wool slabs

Warming the veranda from the inside with your own hands is quite in demand in the harsh climate of Russia. Owners often want to make an additional room warm in their country house or in their home. Otherwise, the unheated veranda will freeze and become damp, and because of this, the finish will quickly begin to deteriorate.

A competent approach to the construction of the veranda requires its insulation even at the beginning of construction. But if the house was bought, do-it-yourself warming of the terrace should be done if necessary.

Warming of the veranda is carried out in any season of the year.

The building can be finished:

Outside. Such work is best done only in good weather: when it is easier to work, and the materials used will not be damaged.
From within. This method is relevant in cool and even cold weather. In this case, you can immediately:

insulate the veranda;
prepare a good base for interior decoration.

After the room becomes warm, you can gather here in winter with the whole family and friends over a cup of warm coffee.

What material is chosen for insulation

The best option for finishing the veranda can be:

Minvata.
Styrofoam. But in case of unexpected contact with fire, quite dangerous carcinogens will be released, which should not be ignored. However, the relatively low price makes the material affordable for warming such a room. Polyfoam is a budget option.
As additional material you can use a foam pad. Its metallized layer will be able to reflect cool air from the street, and heat will remain inside the veranda. This material is a high-tech, heat-insulating agent consisting of a layer made of polyethylene foam and high-quality aluminum foil covering it. Such a "reflected" layer can also be used as a separate independent thermal insulation. But for maximum effect, to preserve heat, it is necessary to combine foam phenol with other types of heaters.
Polyurethane foam, basalt wool, resole foam are considered effective options for insulating a building with your own hands.. These materials do not burn.

More about insulation

How to insulate the foundation

Tip: For the veranda, you should choose the same type of foundation as the main building - concrete slabs, monolithic concrete or strip base.

The base material absolutely does not block the cold coming from the ground in winter, so the foundation can freeze through. Through it, heat loss reaches up to 20%. There are several ways to insulate a cold veranda, namely its base.

It could be:

Backfilling with earth or expanded clay of the internal space.

Such options are used only in the construction of the veranda, when foundation work is carried out. For this:

the formwork is removed;
the entire internal site is covered with expanded clay or earth, which will be very cheap, especially when excess soil remains after construction. But at the same time, the quality of its heat saving is low.

A layer of expanded clay does not allow moisture and frost to pass into concrete slab. Expanded clay has greater thermal insulation, but it will need to be purchased, which will increase costs.

Tip: To isolate the base, a double layer should be made: the first is covered with soil, and then expanded clay pebbles are laid.

Pasting with polystyrene foam.

In the presence of heaving soil, it is necessary to carry out external insulation of the foundation walls with expanded polystyrene. This is due to the deformation of the base, which occurs due to the expansion of the soil in volume during periodic thawing and freezing.

In this case, the insulation layer plays the role of an insulator, relieving the base from direct contact with the ground, and blocking frost. The entire outside surface concrete, including the basement.

Tip: Before the polystyrene foam is glued, the entire foundation must be covered with mastic for waterproofing, as shown in the photo.

The order of work is as follows:

Polystyrene is laid on the outside of the foundation, which is dug up to the very foundation.
The first row is mounted on a gravel bed.
The base is smeared with bituminous polymer mastic, for a waterproofing layer.
After drying, expanded polystyrene plates are glued.
The adhesive composition is selected polyurethane, which is applied in dots or the entire sheet is lubricated.
Between the plates, the joints are taken with glue, which will make it possible to avoid cold bridges and save the base from cracks into which moisture can penetrate.

Most new way external insulation - polyurethane foam spraying. It consists of liquid components and is sprayed onto the foundation with special equipment. After complete curing, the coating acquires density, becomes monolithic and sufficiently durable.

According to its characteristics, the composition is not inferior to extruded polystyrene foam, although the cost of work is much higher. At the same time, there are no joints, which improves the quality of thermal insulation.

How to insulate floors

Closest to the ground, in addition to the foundation, are the floors. Their insulation must be performed without fail in order to avoid the appearance of black spots of dampness in the corners.

On the verandas, the floors are usually poured with concrete. When planning a heating device using the "warm floor" system, it should be carried out on initial stage floor fillings.

In this case it is better to choose electrical system activated as needed. At sufficiently low temperatures, the water floor may freeze, and freeze only in the spring, or the coating will need to be dismantled to warm up the existing pipes.

Upon availability on the veranda old tiles, insulation can be placed directly on it.

The procedure for insulating floors in an unheated room is as follows:

The entire area of the underground is covered with gravel.
Sand is poured on top and carefully compacted.
Rebars are laid out for reinforcement or a mesh is laid out, which will protect the concrete from cracks.
Is being done concrete screed five centimeters thick.
After the fill hardens, a waterproofing layer is created. The easiest way is to make a screed coated with water-repellent mastic. However, a less expensive option is to lay roofing sheets and fasten them bituminous mastic or rolled, pre-heating them with a burner.
On top of the waterproofing, logs impregnated with an antiseptic are mounted, and a heater is laid between them, which can be mineral wool foiled on one side. The foil prevents infrared radiation from leaving the room, with which a lot of heat escapes. Insulation rolls are laid after installing all the logs.
Insulation can also be performed with polystyrene foam. At the same time, the joints between the plates are blown with mounting foam, and the excess material is cut off after drying.
Boards or decking are laid.

Tip: All wooden details must be carefully treated with antiseptics that protect them from decay, and then painted with a protective composition.

To avoid dampness, which is very afraid of the tree, organized good ventilation. To do this, ventilation vents are made in the foundation, located below the floor level.
Insulation is placed with the foil up, which prevents heat from reflecting back to the veranda.
Underground decking does not require ventilation - it does not deteriorate due to temperature changes and the appearance of dampness. Decking is a board, but previously treated with compounds at the factory. For its manufacture, larch is used, it is not afraid of frost and moisture. This material is usually lined open terraces. But, the cost of such flooring is quite high.

How to insulate the walls of the veranda

The walls of such a room are usually insulated from the inside, and from the outside only to give the veranda a presentable look.

When insulating wooden walls, you must:

Close up all the cracks in the building.
On a tree, fill a vertical crate from the bars with a step of elements up to 0.5 meters.

Tip: When stuffing the rails, measure the width of the insulation, and then fill them exactly according to its dimensions. In this case, all the plates will fit snugly against the crate.

Mineral wool is installed between the slats, which is fastened with dowel-umbrellas.
A waterproofing film is fixed on top with a stapler.
The surface is finished with clapboard, siding or other finishing material(cm. ).

Do-it-yourself veranda insulation from block walls:

They are glued to the walls with a special adhesive composition polystyrene boards, additionally they are reinforced with dowel-umbrellas.
The same glue is smeared on top of the plates and a reinforcing mesh is attached to them.
After the final drying, the walls are covered with decorative plaster.
Surfaces are painted.

Before the veranda is insulated from the inside, it is necessary to carefully caulk all the cracks.

The procedure for insulating the terrace with your own hands is as follows:

The crate is stuffed.
A waterproofing film is fixed with a stapler, it will protect the insulation from moisture from the street.
A metal frame is mounted, on which drywall will then be attached.
The frame is filled with mineral wool.
The laid insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film.
Installed drywall.
The finish coat is carefully applied.

Tip: The distance between the elements of the metal profile on the frame should be equal to the width of the insulation sheets.

How to insulate the veranda from the inside with foam can be seen in detail in the video in this article. Each owner of his house decides for himself how to insulate the veranda from the inside. The main thing is that it is warm and cozy here.

How to check the tightness of the installation of windows and doors

If we insulate the veranda with our own hands, we must make sure that there is no heat loss from windows and doors. When installed on the veranda of the old wooden windows, you will need to carefully check their tightness.

For this:

Attention is drawn to the quality of the installation of glazing beads, which you just need to pull.
If they cracked or began to stagger, all glasses must be removed, the grooves cleaned, and then coated with silicone sealant on their surfaces.
Glasses are inserted back and sealant is applied along the edge.
Clamped with new glazing beads.

At the joints of the window opening and the frame, you need to walk with an ordinary metal ruler. Where it passes freely, there are gaps that must be sealed with mounting foam. The entrance door is checked in the same way.

How to insulate the ceiling of the veranda

A significant part of the heat can escape through the ceiling, which requires its insulation. The best option laying out between the beams of a foil foam polymer can become, which will simultaneously retain heat and prevent moisture from passing through.

You can also use mineral wool, but in this case the first layer will be roofing material, and serve as a vapor barrier, and insulation boards are laid on it.

A few nuances when warming the veranda

To insulated veranda to the house with large window frames was as warm as possible, the installation of a triple frame structure is recommended.

Besides:

Before warming the veranda, you need to take care of fire safety buildings. To do this, non-combustible materials must be selected.
In case of fire, a veranda not protected by fire-resistant materials, even with a small fire, can flare up and catch fire in a very short time.

Performing the insulation of the veranda on your own will not be great work, the main thing is to determine in advance what and how to insulate.

In order to insulate an extension to the house, you will need a good thermal insulation material. Optimum solution for internal and external insulation – mineral wool boards. They are great for insulating walls and ceilings from boards, they have good thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, durability and are inexpensive. For internal works you need a heater with a thickness of 50-70 mm.

Insulation of walls and ceilings of the extension from the inside

List of required materials:

Waterproofing film to protect the insulation from moisture.
Fasteners and metal profiles for the construction of the frame and plasterboard cladding.
Wooden slats with a section of 5 x 2 cm.
Gypsum boards for final wall cladding with a thickness of 9.5 to 12 mm.
Putty for processing joints between plasterboard sheets.

Stages of warming:

Creation of a crate for fastening thermal insulation. On the surfaces that we insulate, we fill the prepared slats or boards with a distance slightly less than the width of the heat-insulating panels.
Heater installation. Between the bars we place mineral wool. So are the walls.
Waterproofing. We cover the entire insulated surface with a vapor barrier membrane, overlapping the edges. We fix the film with staples on the bars of the crate.
Frame for drywall sheets. We fasten vertical and horizontal metal profiles, creating a frame for the final sheathing.
GKL sheathing. We install drywall on walls and ceilings.

Note. In principle, other material can be used instead of drywall for sheathing. It could be wooden lining, plywood, OSB or GVL. Choose what suits you best in terms of external and internal characteristics.
Joint processing. Using putty, we cover the joints between the plates, we clean them.
Cosmetic finish. The finished surface can be painted, wallpapered, tiled or any other finishing materials.

Features of wall insulation from some materials

Walls made of foam concrete blocks are warm due to the huge amount of air bubbles contained in foam concrete, but additional insulation work is indispensable, otherwise heating costs will be too high. Insulation from the outside is much more expensive, because lining is needed. Proper insulation walls from the inside implies good vapor barrier and ventilation of the insulation layer on both sides.

It is recommended to avoid highly absorbent, fibrous, moisture-permeable insulation materials. These measures are necessary to reduce humidity in the extension and prevent freezing of the walls. When installing insulation, it should be borne in mind that cold penetrates into the room through the joints.

Mineral wool is not suitable for foam concrete blocks; expanded polystyrene sheets require additional docking. The best insulation such walls - spraying polyurethane foam. It prevents the formation of condensate. For education required thickness insulation layer should be used wooden crate. The metal profile creates cold bridges. A waterproofing layer is fixed on top of the foam with slats, and then drywall is fixed. The dew point is located at the point of contact of the polyurethane foam and the extension of the foam blocks or inside the polyurethane.

The disadvantages of polyurethane spraying are the high price and the need to attract special equipment and trained specialists.

Insulation of the walls of the frame extension from the outside

We make the external insulation of the extension to the house from the frame according to the same principle as the internal one. First, a vertical frame of wooden beams. The distance between the boards should be about 50 cm, slightly less than the width of the insulation. Mineral wool blocks are tightly inserted between the beams, which are covered on top with a layer of waterproofing. The film is reinforced with staples around the perimeter of the frame. At the final finishing stage the surface is covered with siding.

Outside or inside, which is more effective

Benefits of internal insulation

in one step they insulate the ceiling, floor, walls;
work can be performed in any weather conditions;
Simplicity - insulated surfaces are accessible over the entire height.

Cons of internal insulation

The freezing point during internal insulation is shifted into the wall, which contributes to its faster destruction. In addition, if the extension room already has fine finish, decorative coating will have to be dismantled.

Benefits of outdoor insulation

displacement of the freezing point into the insulation, due to which the rate of destruction of the walls decreases;
the inner living area of the extension is retained;
lack of debris from construction work indoors;
the possibility of using the extension during work, the way of life is preserved;
additional protection of wooden walls from getting wet.

Minus external insulation

concrete floor insulation

List of materials you will need:

insulation - mineral wool boards;
vapor barrier;
scotch;
damper tape;
reinforcing mesh;
screed solution.

Stages of insulation

On concrete base a layer of vapor barrier film is applied. The joints of the insulation for the overall tightness of the layer must be carefully glued with adhesive tape.
Insulation boards are laid on top of the waterproofing material. It is important that the blocks fit snugly against each other, there are no gaps and cracks left.
The entire room around the perimeter is glued with damper tape. This is necessary to compensate for expansion of the screed.
On top of the mineral wool insulation, another layer of vapor barrier is applied and then a reinforcing mesh.
The screed is poured. Its thickness must be at least 3 cm.
After complete drying of the surface, any topcoat is applied.

Floor insulation on beams

List of materials - what you need:

wooden boards, logs;
insulation;
vapor barrier coating;
clay mortar;
plywood.

Stages of work

Fasten smaller transverse joists to the floor beams. Lay the boards on the logs with a rough solid deck to prevent heat from blowing out. Coat the coating with a thick clay solution, wait for it to dry and apply a layer of vapor barrier on top. Lay between the log of the insulation plate, cover it with another layer of vapor barrier. From above, cover the surface with boards or plywood. On the resulting wooden floor lay a decorative coating to your liking.

Roof insulation

In order to properly insulate the roof of an extension to the house, the following principle should be observed: all layers of the insulation cake must provide moisture insulation from the outside and vapor permeability from the inside. For thermal insulation of roofs, foam plastic, foam plastic, polyurethane foam are used, but mineral wool and other fibrous insulation are best suited in combination with membrane films to remove water vapor.

Types of insulation - features, characteristics

Mineral wool. It has low thermal conductivity, is fireproof, durable, flexible, resistant to temperature and chemical substances. In addition, mineral wool insulation provides good sound insulation. Cons - a frame is required for installation, after some time of operation, it becomes denser, loses thermal insulation performance.
Polyurethane foam is produced in three types: flexible, dense, sprayed. PPU is easy to install, lightweight, resistant to biological and chemical environments. Cons - an expensive price, it quickly ages from ultraviolet radiation, deforms from mechanical stress, has a low vapor permeability, which accumulates moisture, which has a detrimental effect on the walls of the house.
Penofol - environmentally friendly, flexible, easy to install. The material has low vapor permeability and high resistance to combustion. Cons - thin, overly soft. Expanded polystyrene has low weight, sufficient rigidity, it is easy to assemble and cut. This is a very strong, wear-resistant material. Cons - does not tolerate high temperatures from 100 degrees, has low soundproofing qualities.
Basalt wool is a fibrous material that is identical to mineral wool in its properties and performance characteristics. Cons - during operation it is compacted, which increases thermal conductivity.
Styrofoam - light and hard, does not lose its operational properties even after prolonged use, can be mounted both frameless and wireframe. Insulation with low vapor permeability and hygroscopicity. Cons - combustible, rodents love.
Moss, flax, tow - used for insulation without breaking appearance the buildings. Such materials are, of course, environmentally friendly. Cons - specific, difficult to install, of interest to animals, birds that build their nests from them.

Warming the extension with your own hands is always better to start with the walls. How to insulate the extension, whether it will be external or internal insulation, depends on the size, characteristics of the room and the personal tastes and preferences of the homeowners. The process of warming itself does not take much time, and the cost of materials for such work will not hit the budget.

Everyone who has Vacation home, it does not matter whether it is a simple country house or a respectable cottage, over time the thought comes that it would not be bad to slightly increase its usable area. Someone needs a garage, someone is ripe for a bath, but someone just lacks a few square meters for the device in front of the entrance to the house of a small vestibule. Everyone's goals are different. But there is only one way to achieve these goals, in the vast majority of cases: this is the construction of a small one-story extension, closely adjacent to the main building.

And, which is very surprising, but, nevertheless, is a fact - all the owners of the houses want to make this extension as soon as possible (until the summer is over). And everyone makes the same mistakes over and over again. One of the most common mistakes, or rather, avoidance is the installation of poor-quality thermal insulation of the attached premises. This error is indeed widespread, and is explained very simply. Not all summer residents and gardeners, by virtue of their profession, are associated with construction, and therefore forgetting in the summer about the need to insulate the walls of the room for them is a couple of trifles. The most interesting thing is that everyone who, for some reason, did not insulate the walls of a wooden extension during construction, will have to do this sooner or later, and therefore, they will have to spend time collecting and studying relevant information. Therefore, if you feel that the construction of your extension is just around the corner - take a couple of minutes and read this article to the end.

So, we are learning to insulate the premises of an already erected extension.
First of all, it is necessary to determine how the room will be insulated - from the outside or from the inside. Modern building materials and technologies make it possible to do this and that. However, in relation to the dacha sector, the simplest and most economical option is internal insulation. On that we will decide - we will insulate our extension from the inside.

The next step is the choice of insulation. For an extension, a sufficient thickness of the insulation is 50-75 mm. The most favorite type of insulation among summer residents is mineral wool boards. I will not waste my and your precious time on detailed overview relevant segment domestic market building materials, but I will immediately indicate those manufacturers that produce the best (in terms of the price-quality ratio) thermal insulation materials based on mineral wool:

ISOVER;
Rockwool;
"URSA";
"Izorok".

Price for 1 sq. m of mineral wool insulation from the above manufacturers lies in the range of 65-90 rubles.

Dealt with the heater. But one heater is not enough. Here is a list of other materials you will need for internal insulation our extension:

Wooden blocks (slats) of rectangular section 5x2 cm in size;
Pasting waterproofing (film or membrane), necessary to protect the insulation from moisture ingress. The cost of waterproofing is approximately 20-40 rubles per 1 sq. m.;
Plasterboard sheets (GKL) with a thickness of 9.5-12.5 mm for the outer finishing sheathing of insulated walls. The average cost is 70-80 rubles. for 1 sq.m.;
Profiled and fastening metal elements (for the manufacture of the frame and fastening sheets of plasterboard);
A little putty for sealing joints between drywall sheets.

The materials are complete. All that is left is to mount them correctly. The procedure for proper insulation of the extension is as follows:

Lathing device: nailed to inner surface walls and ceilings of our premises are wooden blocks or boards (see item 1 of the list of materials) with a step of 50-75 cm (the step size is equal to the width of our heat-insulating boards);
Installation of insulation: on the crate of wooden bars we lay mineral wool boards (both on the walls and on the ceiling);
Waterproofing device: the surface of the mounted insulation boards is glued over the entire area with waterproofing (see item 2 of the list of materials);
Installation of a frame for gypsum boards (see item 4 of the list of materials): on top of the waterproofing coating of walls and ceilings, we mount horizontal and vertical metal profiles, on which the outer plasterboard sheathing will subsequently be held;
Sheathing of walls and ceilings with plasterboard sheets (see item 3 of the list of materials);
Sealing joints between sheets of drywall with putty, followed by stripping;
Finishing the inner surface of walls and ceilings (optional): painting, tiling or any other type of finish to your taste.

That's actually all! The total cost of materials for insulating the premises of a wooden extension with an area of 3x4 m and a height of 2.7 m is approximately 8-10 thousand rubles.