We insulate the facade. Which insulation is better to choose for facade plaster and how to calculate the thickness of the insulation. Vinyl siding technology

Finishing a terrace in a private house (photo)

The veranda is a small room attached to the house. It can be open or glazed (closed). It is used both for agricultural needs and for recreation. How to insulate a veranda for winter accommodation from the inside with your own hands and what materials are best to choose for these purposes? You will find out the answers to these questions below.

What should you pay attention to when insulating the veranda from the inside?

Let's decide how to properly insulate it and make it a full-fledged living space for the winter. You can use it absolutely at any time of the year. Before starting work, you need to think through absolutely all the nuances: insulation option, material for thermal insulation, places for installing insulation. In this case, it is possible to lay insulation from the inside and outside.

Warming the veranda wooden house possible subject to the following conditions:

Installation is only possible if there is good ventilation.
In cool weather, the heating should always be on in the veranda.
Additional wall insulation cannot exceed a thickness of 55 mm.

Modern in the interior

Review of materials used for internal insulation

Nowadays the construction market offers a wide variety of materials for thermal insulation of premises. They differ in performance characteristics and cost. So, let's figure out how to insulate the veranda from the inside?

Polystyrene foam is the most popular type of insulation in many areas of construction. It is characterized by low weight, good rigidity, stable performance characteristics even with long-term use, ease of installation and the possibility of installation, both with and without a frame. The disadvantages of polystyrene foam include its high fire danger and attractiveness to rodents. This is a significant disadvantage for insulating a veranda in a private house.
When using polystyrene foam, there is no need to construct another waterproofing layer.

Scheme for insulating veranda walls with polystyrene foam
Penofol is recommended by many experts. This is a modern and high-quality thermal insulation material; it can be used in conjunction with other types of insulation or without them. Penofol is ideal for insulating all buildings in a country house. It has a low degree of vapor permeability. The material is environmentally friendly. You can install it yourself without any problems.
Floor insulation with penofol
Another popular insulation is mineral wool. It can also be used to insulate any buildings in the private sector. It is possible to use mineral wool for rooms intended for winter use. To install a thermal insulation layer made of mineral wool, you will need to equip the frame. Such material will lose its density four to five years after installation, and this will inevitably lead to a loss of thermal insulation properties.
Basalt wool is an analogue of mineral wool. She is also gradually losing thermal insulation properties. It differs from mineral wool in being safer from an environmental point of view.
Expanded polystyrene combines all the advantages of foam insulation. It has good strength and is easy to work with. Even a beginner in this matter can install a thermal insulation layer with polystyrene foam. However this material characterized by high sound transmittance.

Expanded polystyrene belongs to the category of non-combustible materials.
Glass wool is superior in strength and elasticity to all the materials listed above. It can be purchased in roll form. Working with it is quite simple, but it is necessary to use means to protect your hands, eyes and face, as well as the respiratory system. Therefore, along with glass wool, you will need to purchase safety glasses and a respirator. Glass wool has little strength, so it can sag greatly over time. This material is absolutely fireproof.

We insulate a closed veranda with our own hands

In this block we will discuss how to properly insulate a veranda from the inside with your own hands. Let's consider the features of insulation of walls, ceilings, roofs, floors, doors and windows. Before starting work, you will need to purchase all materials and tools, seal windows and doors.

Preparatory work before insulation

There are many ways to insulate a veranda with your own hands. We will tell you about the most popular methods among people. The list of required tools includes: stapler, construction knife, paint roller, hacksaw, paint brushes, screwdriver. In addition to the selected thermal insulation material, you will also need to buy: door seal, mounting foam, vapor barrier film, self-tapping screws, plaster, wooden beams.

When preparatory work finished, it's time to turn a cold veranda into a warm living room.

Insulation of walls on the veranda

You should start insulating the walls on the veranda with the installation of a frame (metal or wood). The wooden frame is made of slats and bars, and metal carcass made from galvanized profile. The latter is most suitable for insulating plasterboard structures. The technology for installing the frame is the same when using the materials listed above and looks like this (an example of installing a wooden frame).

To install the frame, you need to install the upper and lower wooden bars, filling the distance between them with the help of intermediate bars. They are mounted only horizontally.
Before installation on the wall, the timber must be treated with an antiseptic to protect against rot and mold. Use mineral wool.
Fastening the frame to the walls of the veranda can be done using self-tapping screws, a hammer drill and a screwdriver. In this case, the method of fastening the timber directly depends on the material of the walls.
Control horizontal installation timber using building level. The width of the frame cells will always correspond to the dimensions of the insulation boards. In case of dense installation, you can reduce the cell spacing by 3 mm. There should be no cracks or gaps during the installation of the frame. Lay down insulation for veranda entirely, removing everything unnecessary only after installation. When the thermal insulation layer is installed in the sheathing, you will need to pull the vapor barrier film overlapping to the frame beams.
You need to stick metallized tape along the joints of the film. The procedure will protect the thermal insulation layer from moisture.
To improve the quality of insulation, you can install a gasket made of penofol between the wall and the heat-insulating layer.
The final stage will be the installation of the frame sheathing; it will protect the inner layer and perform an aesthetic function. For these purposes, it is possible to use wooden lining, MDF panels or PVC panels.

Insulation of ceiling and roof

Internal insulation of the veranda requires the obligatory laying of a thermal insulation layer on the ceiling. The principle of carrying out the work is practically no different from the methodology for insulating walls. The main difficulty is that everything installation work need to be carried out under a canopy. Doing all this alone is almost impossible.

First, dismantle ceiling covering and apply a waterproofing film to the rough surface of the ceiling. Next, you need to build a frame from timber according to the same principle as for the walls. A thermal insulation layer can be made in the gaps between the beams. The top is covered with a vapor barrier film. Finishing can be done using plasterboard or lining.

Most of the heat escapes through the roof. To reduce heat loss, high-quality insulation will be required. Doing this from the outside is only possible at the stage construction work. Work on the roof from the inside is only possible through the ceiling.

Insulation of the floor on the veranda

How and with what to insulate the floor on the veranda? One of the most popular plank floor installation schemes is as follows.

Cover the floor with expanded clay or small crushed stone.
Pour a small layer of sand on top and compact it.
Next do reinforcing mesh with a section according to your project.
A concrete layer of thickness according to the design is poured on top.
After the floor has dried, lay a waterproofing layer, for example, roofing felt.
You need to lay it on top of the roofing felt wooden joists, impregnated with antiseptics.
A thermal insulation layer must be placed between the joists.
After insulating the floor on the veranda in a wooden house, you should proceed to laying the finishing coating.

Insulation of windows and doors

The best option is to install PVC double glazed windows. If this is not possible, then you can start insulating existing wooden frames.

Preparatory work should be carried out in the following order:

You also need to insulate door frame so that it does not pass through the joints onto the veranda cold air. Do this using batting: remove from the loops and stuff slightly protruding rollers on top and bottom, and then beat tightly, securing with a stapler or small nails.

Options for heating a closed veranda in winter

Having answered the question of how to make a warm veranda with your own hands, let's look at the most popular and available options heating closed veranda in winter.

Insulating a summer veranda – does it make sense?

To make out summer veranda a full-fledged room suitable for living in winter will require careful insulation of the veranda with your own hands from the inside and outside. The only “viable” option is to make a frame or. But then you will have to spend some money Money: first for the installation of double-glazed windows, and then for insulation using thermal insulation materials.

When insulating a summer veranda, it should be taken into account that the installation of a heat-insulating layer leads to a shift in the dew point. This causes the formation of fungus and mold. Therefore, it will be necessary to lay a waterproofing and vapor barrier layer

It's a great thing to have in the house during the warmer months. But with the onset of cold weather, the owners suddenly notice that the corners of the extension are frozen and blackened, the wallpaper is damp, and in general the veranda can no longer cope with retaining the cold from the street. It's time to think about how to insulate the terrace next winter, especially if this part of the room is planned for living.

A summer veranda in the house is a great thing in the warm season

We solve the problem comprehensively

This is a big matter and requires an integrated approach. To put it simply, you will have to insulate the veranda with your own hands from bottom to top, from the subfloor to the roof.

To have everything at hand, let's prepare:

hammer;
nails;
putty with spatulas;
masking or construction tape;
roulette;
hacksaw;
screws and nails;
pencil.

To insulate the veranda you will need a hammer, nails, putty with spatulas, masking or construction tape, tape measure, hacksaw, screws and nails, pencil

Materials will have to be purchased as stages of work are completed.

We insulate windows and doors

Even in normal warm apartment The lion's share of heat evaporates if it comes through from the windows. On the veranda, even more so, the windows cause huge losses. If you have old wooden windows installed, do not skimp on new double glazed windows, they are worth it. If it is not possible to replace the windows, you should seal the cracks in them as much as possible. Ready-made adhesive strips of foam rubber or, at worst, masking tape are suitable for this; they can be used to seal windows and survive the winter. In old windows, you need to double-check the condition of the outer glazing beads, replace rotten or broken ones, put the glass on sealant and press it with new glazing beads.

Ready-made adhesive strips of foam rubber are suitable for insulating windows.

The doors should also be insulated first, by laying a special insulating strip of rubber or adhesive foam rubber along the diameter.

Ceiling insulation

It is very important to insulate the ceiling from the roof of the house. Good insulation It will help not only in the cold winter, but also save you from the heat in the summer. It can usually be done cheaply and simply. The easiest way is to plaster the ceiling, because plaster reduces the moisture capacity of the surface and creates an additional layer of insulation.

When choosing thermal insulators, you need to give preference to non-toxic materials. Cardboard is effective, but it has bad qualities - it has excellent flammability and absorbs moisture.

Vermiculite and other mineral wool have good insulating properties. These insulators are safe to use, do not burn, are affordable and are always in stock. construction stores. It is convenient to use this insulation in the form of slabs, but first you should lay a layer of vapor barrier in the form of roofing felt.

Good insulation will help not only in the cold winter, but also save you from the heat in the summer.

One of the best ways Ceiling insulation is called laying foamed foil polymer; it is capable of not only retaining heat, but also not allowing moisture to pass through.

Layers of insulation are laid between the ceilings. Among the most exotic ways retaining heat from loss through the ceiling is called plastic bottles. If you collect them, tie them tightly together and lay them in the form of mats on top of the ceiling, they will become a kind of cold traps and create a barrier to heat loss.

We insulate the bottom

When talking about floors, we mean insulation from the foundation side - insulation of the space near the ground, insulation of the foundation and the floor itself.

Step 1. Expanded clay-earth option.

Traditionally, when making a foundation for a terrace, home owners continue the line of the old foundation. And it, as a rule, is brick or concrete. Having excellent strength, these materials suffer from one drawback - they are cold. Both the cement base and the concrete slab draw heat from the room. Thus, losses through the foundation constitute a fifth of all heat losses.

You can isolate the veranda from the cold underground floor in a wooden house with a layer of earth or expanded clay. This is usually done when building a terrace - along the line of the strip base, the middle is covered with insulation. In this case, the land is free of charge, but does not have very high thermal insulation properties. Expanded clay is expensive, but it has good properties keep warm.

You can isolate the veranda from the cold underground floor in a wooden house with a layer of earth or expanded clay

Step 2. “Warm” the foundation.

During cold winters, the ground near the foundation freezes, causing it to shrink and expand when it thaws. So the foundation “plays” several times during the winter, which leads to the formation of cracks and destruction of the foundation in the house. To avoid this, you need to cut off the foundation from contact with the outer layer of the earth. To do this, the foundation must first be dug to the very bottom. Then coat with bitumen or special bitumen-polymer mastic. Let it dry and stick sheets of polystyrene foam or other polystyrene-based heat insulator on top. Cover the foundation with polystyrene sheets to the very top, including the base part. For the work, polyurethane glue is used, and the sheets must be glued very carefully, pressing them along the edges, so that the so-called cold bridges are not preserved and there is no access of moisture to the base of the house.

IN Lately Many types of sprayed insulation have appeared on the market of materials for construction and repair work. This material is a polyurethane foam mass in cylinders, which gives a very good insulation effect. It is applied to the wall, and after spraying, the foam hardens after some time, turning into a dense and durable crust. It has one minus - the price.

Step 3. Insulate the floors.

In private households, there is an eternal problem - it blows from the underground, and it’s cold on your feet. You can't do without insulation. Usually the problem is solved by laying heated floors under the screed - electric or water. In an unheated extension, you have to solve the problem in a different way:

fill the subfloor with crushed stone, then add sand and compact everything;
lay a reinforcing mesh or metal rods on top of the sand, pour a small screed - no more than 5 cm;
coat the hardened cement with mastic to impart water-repellent properties. It’s even easier to lay roofing felt, fastening the strips with bitumen mastic;
lay wooden logs impregnated with an antiseptic composition, and place any insulation between the logs. Blow out the joints polyurethane foam.
Lay the floor from boards, pre-treated with an antiseptic and dried.
Insulation. To prevent the boards from rotting from dampness, do not forget about vents; they must be in the foundation and placed below the floor.

To make the walls warmer

The largest area of contact with the cold is near the walls. You can insulate the veranda from the outside and inside. Insulation of the veranda from the inside is done if the building is decorated with expensive materials from the outside. quality materials, which are a pity to open.

Insulation of the veranda from the inside is done if the outside of the building is decorated with expensive high-quality materials that would be a shame to open

How to insulate a veranda from the inside:

IN wooden walls oh we need to seal all the cracks.
Stuff the sheathing slats at intervals equal to the width of the insulation boards; this will allow the wall to be sewn smoothly and without gaps.
Attach moisture-proofing film to the slats using a stapler.
If you plan to finish the interior with plasterboard, then at this moment you need to install a sheathing made of metal profiles.
Place mineral wool slabs in the gaps of the profiles; you can use mounting dowel umbrellas.
Secure the waterproofing film over the heat insulation using a stapler.
Mount plasterboard finishing boards on the metal profile.
Putty and paint the walls.

Methods of insulation from the outside

If it is possible to insulate the walls from the street, then it is better to do so. Firstly, it will help save previously done interior decoration. Secondly, it is more beneficial in terms of heat conservation. External materials such as brick and concrete not only do not heat up, but under certain conditions are also capable of taking heat from interior space. Therefore, the task is to insulate more thermally conductive materials, such as brick, concrete, with less thermally conductive materials, such as, for example, mineral wool, basalt or cellulose foam insulation, or other polystyrenes.

You can insulate walls from the street like this:

attaching heat insulation boards to glue followed by finishing with plaster;
installation of a three-layer non-ventilated wall (attaching insulation to the wall with a gap for air, laying one brick);
installation of a ventilated facade (a layer of waterproofing material, then - a layer of insulation, wind protection and finishing in the form of siding or lining).

Modern production technologies building materials offer new developments for insulation, which may have their own installation conditions. Some of them, including ventilated facade technologies, allow for insulation work even in the cold season, since they do not involve the use of adhesives.

In the diagrams below you can see examples of how insulation of wooden, as well as brick and concrete walls.

Progress

Prepare the wall surface: remove completely old layer insulation or plaster, reaching the brick, block or wooden wall.
Level the surface. Fill potholes with mortar and scrape off any ridges until smooth.
Clean the walls from dirt and dust, prime the surface.
Place beacons; they will help determine the surface of the outer edges of the insulation.
To make it easier to navigate when installing insulation boards, it is recommended to make a control grid, fill it with screws along the top of the wall, attach plumb lines to them, these will be vertical guides. Horizontal guides will be threads stretched horizontally.
Start installing the slabs.

If you are working with polystyrene foam, then you should start laying by installing a small bottom shelf, and glue the first sheet onto it. Next, the sheets are glued with an adhesive and applied one by one to the wall under level control. When the first layer has dried, the next one is installed, and the joints of the slabs should be shifted by half.

In the corners of the wall and near the windows, foam plastic boards are additionally secured with a metal corner; in all other sheets, the sheets are also secured with anchors in the form of “mushrooms” - in the center and in the corners of the sheets. The joints of the slabs are fixed with reinforcing tape for plastering work. Next you need to attach the reinforcing mesh to the slabs and you can start plastering work.

Important! Expanded polystyrene is good for insulating brick and concrete walls, however an important condition quality of work will be pre-drying the wall. This will avoid the accumulation of moisture under the insulating layer. After all, as you know, polystyrene foam does not have good vapor permeability, so after you cover the walls with insulation, it will be difficult to remove dampness from under the slabs.

Insulation with basalt, mineral wool or cellulose materials is carried out over the lathing, which is installed wooden slats. A prerequisite is that the insulation sheets should be a little larger, literally a couple of centimeters, than the sheathing cells. This will make the insulation tight, without gaps. Anchors are installed at the corners of the cells for better fastening of the insulation. On uneven wall It is better to use two-layer insulation. In this case, a soft layer needs to be mounted to the wall, which will hide the unevenness. You can install a reinforcing mesh on top of the insulation layer and do plastering work (when using, for example, mineral wool). Or make a three-layer ventilated facade: fixing a film over the insulation as a wind barrier, stuff horizontal lathing and then cover the walls with siding, clapboard, or cover them with brick.

Below is a diagram of insulation with mineral wool slabs.

Scheme of insulating the veranda with mineral wool slabs

Do-it-yourself insulation of the veranda from the inside is quite in demand in the harsh climate of Russia. Owners often want to make an additional room warm in their country house or in their home. Otherwise, the unheated veranda will freeze and become damp, and because of this, the finish will quickly begin to deteriorate.

A competent approach to the construction of a veranda requires its insulation even at the start of construction. But if the house has been purchased, insulating the terrace with your own hands should be done if necessary.

Insulation of the veranda is carried out in any season of the year.

The building can be finished:

Outside. It is better to carry out such work only in good weather: when it is easier to work and the materials used will not be damaged.
From the inside. This method is relevant in cold weather and even cold weather. In this case, you can immediately:

insulate the veranda;
prepare a good base for interior finishing.

After the room becomes warm, you can gather here in winter with the whole family and friends over a cup of warm coffee.

What material is chosen for insulation?

The best option for finishing the veranda may be:

Minvata.
Styrofoam. But if it unexpectedly comes into contact with fire, quite dangerous carcinogens will be released, which should not be ignored. However, the relatively low price makes the material available for insulating such a room. Polystyrene foam is a budget option.
As additional material You can use a foam pad. Its metallized layer will be able to reflect cool air from the street, and heat will be retained inside the veranda. This material is a high-tech, heat-insulating product consisting of a layer made of foamed polyethylene and high-quality aluminum foil covering it. This “reflected” layer can also be used as a separate independent thermal insulation. But for maximum effect To preserve heat, it is necessary to combine penophenol with other types of insulation.
Effective options for insulating a building with your own hands are polyurethane foam, basalt wool, and resole foam.. These materials do not burn.

Details about insulation

How to insulate a foundation

Tip: For the veranda you should choose a foundation of the same type as the main building - concrete slabs, monolithic concrete or strip base.

The base material does not at all block the cold coming from the ground in winter, so the foundation can freeze through. Through it, heat loss reaches up to 20%. There are several ways to insulate a cold veranda, namely its base.

It could be:

Filling the internal space with earth or expanded clay.

Such options are used only when constructing a veranda, when foundation work is being carried out. For this:

the formwork is removed;
the entire internal area is covered with expanded clay or earth, which is very cheap, especially when there is excess soil left after construction. But at the same time, the quality of its heat conservation is low.

The expanded clay layer does not allow moisture and frost to pass through concrete slab. Expanded clay has greater thermal insulation, but it will need to be purchased, which will increase costs.

Tip: To insulate the base, you should make a double layer: the first layer is filled with soil, and then expanded clay stones are laid.

Pasting with polystyrene foam.

If there is heaving soil, it is necessary to perform external insulation of the foundation walls with polystyrene foam. This is due to the deformation of the base, which occurs due to the expansion of the soil during periodic thawing and freezing.

In this case, the insulation layer plays the role of an insulator, saving the base from direct contact with the ground and blocking the frost. The entire outside surface concrete, including the base.

Tip: Before polystyrene foam is glued, the entire foundation must be covered with mastic for waterproofing, as shown in the photo.

The work order is as follows:

Polystyrene is laid on the outside of the foundation, which is dug out to the very foundation.
The first row is mounted on a gravel bed.
The base is coated thoroughly with bitumen-polymer mastic for a waterproofing layer.
After drying, polystyrene foam boards are glued on.
The adhesive composition chosen is polyurethane, which is applied in dots or smeared on the entire sheet.
The joints between the plates are glued, which will make it possible to avoid cold bridges and rid the base of cracks into which moisture can penetrate.

Most new way external insulation – polyurethane foam spraying. It consists of liquid components and is sprayed onto the foundation using special equipment. After complete hardening, the coating acquires density, becomes monolithic and quite durable.

According to its characteristics, the composition is not inferior to extruded polystyrene foam, although the cost of the work is much higher. There are no joints, which improves the quality of thermal insulation.

How to insulate floors

Apart from the foundation, the floors are closest to the ground. Their insulation must be carried out to avoid the appearance of black spots of dampness in the corners.

The floors on verandas are usually poured with concrete. When planning a heating device using a “warm floor” system, it should be done on initial stage pouring floors.

In this case it is better to choose electrical system, switched on as needed. At low enough temperatures, the water floor may freeze and freeze only in the spring, or the coating will need to be dismantled to warm up the existing pipes.

If available on the veranda old tiles, the insulation can be placed directly on it.

The procedure for insulating floors in an unheated room is as follows:

The entire underground area is covered with crushed stone.
Sand is poured on top and compacted thoroughly.
Rods for reinforcement are laid out or a mesh is placed, which will protect the concrete from cracks.
Done concrete screed five centimeters thick.
After the pour has hardened, a waterproofing layer is created. The easiest way is to make a screed coated with water-repellent mastic. However, a less expensive option is to lay roofing felt sheets and fasten them together bitumen mastic or roll them, pre-heating them with a burner.
Logs impregnated with an antiseptic are installed on top of the waterproofing, and insulation is placed between them, which can be mineral wool foiled on one side. The foil prevents infrared radiation from leaving the room, with which a lot of heat evaporates. The insulation rolls are laid after all the joists are installed.
Insulation can also be done with polystyrene foam. In this case, the joints between the plates are blown with foam, and the excess material is cut off after drying.
Planks or decking are laid.

Tip: Everyone wooden parts must be carefully treated with antiseptics to protect them from rotting, and then painted with a protective composition.

To avoid dampness, which the tree is very afraid of, organize good ventilation. To do this, ventilation vents are made in the foundation, located below the floor level.
The insulation is placed with the foil facing up, which prevents heat from being reflected back onto the veranda.
Decking does not require ventilation in the underground - it does not deteriorate due to temperature changes and the appearance of dampness. Decking is a board, but previously treated with compounds at the factory. Larch is used to make it; it is not afraid of frost and moisture. This material is usually lined open terraces. But, the cost of such floor covering is quite high.

How to insulate veranda walls

The walls of such a room are usually insulated from the inside, and from the outside only to give the veranda a presentable appearance.

When insulating wooden walls, you must:

Seal all cracks in the building.
Place a vertical sheathing on the tree using beams with element spacing of up to 0.5 meters.

Tip: When stuffing slats, you should measure the width of the insulation, and then fill them exactly to its dimensions. In this case, all the slabs will fit tightly to the sheathing.

Mineral wool is installed between the slats, which is secured with dowel umbrellas.
The waterproofing film is fixed on top with a stapler.
The surface is finished with clapboard, siding or other finishing material(cm. ).

Insulating a veranda with your own hands from block walls:

They are glued to the walls with a special adhesive composition polystyrene foam boards, they are additionally strengthened with dowel umbrellas.
The same glue is applied on top of the slabs and a reinforcing mesh is attached to them.
After final drying, the walls are covered with decorative plaster.
Surfaces are painted.

Before insulating the veranda from the inside, all cracks must be carefully caulked.

The procedure for insulating a terrace with your own hands is as follows:

The sheathing is being filled.
The waterproofing film is fixed with a stapler; it will protect the insulation from moisture from the street.
A metal frame is mounted, onto which the drywall will then be attached.
The frame is filled with mineral wool.
The laid insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film.
Drywall is being installed.
The finishing coat is carefully applied.

Tip: The distance between the metal profile elements on the frame should be equal to the width of the insulation sheets.

How to insulate a veranda from the inside with polystyrene foam can be seen in detail in the video in this article. Each owner of his home decides for himself how to insulate the veranda from the inside. The main thing is that it is warm and cozy here.

How to check the tightness of windows and doors installation

If we insulate the veranda with our own hands, we must ensure that there is no heat loss from windows and doors. When installed on the veranda of old wooden windows, you will need to carefully check their tightness.

For this:

Attention is drawn to the quality of installation of the beads, which just need to be pulled.
If they crack or begin to wobble, all glass must be removed, the grooves cleaned, and then their surfaces coated with silicone sealant.
The glass is inserted back and sealant is applied along the edge.
They are pressed with new glazing beads.

At the joints of the window opening and the frame, you need to go over it with a regular metal ruler. Where it passes freely, there are cracks that must be sealed with polyurethane foam. The front door is checked in the same way.

How to insulate a veranda ceiling

A significant part of the heat can escape through the ceiling, which requires insulation. The best option It can be a matter of laying out foil-coated foam polymer between the beams, which will simultaneously retain heat and not allow moisture to pass through.

You can also use mineral wool, but in this case the first layer will be roofing felt and serve as a vapor barrier, and insulation boards are laid on it.

A few nuances when insulating a veranda

To have an insulated veranda to a house with large window frames was as warm as possible, it is recommended to install a triple frame structure.

Besides:

Before insulating the veranda, you need to take care fire safety buildings. For this purpose, non-combustible materials must be selected.
In the event of a fire, a veranda that is not protected by fire-resistant materials, even with a small amount of fire, can flare up and catch fire in a very short time.

Insulating a veranda yourself won’t be an easy task. a lot of work, the main thing is to determine in advance what to insulate and with what.

In order to insulate an extension to your house, you will need good thermal insulation material. The optimal solution for internal and external insulation – mineral wool slabs. They are excellent for insulating walls and floorboards, have good thermal conductivity, are moisture resistant, durable and inexpensive. For interior work you need insulation with a thickness of 50-70 mm.

Insulation of walls and ceilings of an extension from the inside

List of required materials:

Waterproofing film to protect insulation from moisture.
Fasteners and metal profiles for frame construction and plasterboard cladding.
Wooden slats with a section of 5 x 2 cm.
Plasterboard sheets for final wall cladding with a thickness of 9.5 to 12 mm.
Putty for processing seams between plasterboard sheets.

Warming stages:

Creation of lathing for attaching thermal insulation. On the surfaces to be insulated, we fill prepared slats or boards with a distance slightly less than the width of the insulating panels.
Installation of insulation. We place mineral wool between the bars. So are the walls.
Waterproofing. We cover the entire insulated surface with a vapor barrier membrane, overlapping the edges. We fix the film with staples on the sheathing bars.
Frame for plasterboard sheets. We fasten vertical and horizontal metal profiles, creating a frame for the final cladding.
GKL covering. We install drywall on the walls and ceiling.

Note. In principle, instead of drywall, you can use other material for sheathing. It could be wooden lining, plywood, OSB or GVL. Choose what suits you best in terms of external and internal characteristics.
Processing of joints. Using putty, we cover the joints between the plates and clean them.
Cosmetic finishing. The finished surface can be painted, covered with wallpaper, tiled or any other finishing materials.

Features of wall insulation made of certain materials

Walls made of foam concrete blocks are warm due to the huge number of air bubbles contained in the foam concrete, but additional insulation work cannot be done, otherwise heating costs will be too high. Insulating the outside is much more expensive because it requires cladding. Proper insulation walls from the inside requires good vapor barrier and ventilation of the insulating layer on both sides.

It is recommended to avoid highly absorbent, fibrous, moisture-permeable insulation materials. These measures are necessary to reduce humidity in the extension and prevent freezing of the walls. When installing insulation, it should be taken into account that cold penetrates into the room through the joints.

Mineral wool is not suitable for foam concrete blocks; expanded polystyrene sheets require additional joining. The best insulation such walls - spraying polyurethane foam. It prevents the formation of condensation. For education required thickness insulation layer should be used wooden sheathing. The metal profile creates cold bridges. A waterproofing layer is secured on top of the foam with slats, and then drywall is attached. The dew point is located at the point of contact between the polyurethane foam and the foam block extension or inside the polyurethane.

The disadvantages of spraying polyurethane are the high price and the need to attract special equipment and trained specialists.

Insulating the walls of a frame extension from the outside

We do external insulation of an extension to a frame house according to the same principle as internal insulation. First, a vertical frame made of wooden beams. The distance between the boards should be about 50 cm, slightly less than the width of the insulation. Mineral wool blocks are tightly inserted between the beams, which are covered with a layer of waterproofing. The film is strengthened with staples around the perimeter of the frame. At the final finishing stage the surface is covered with siding.

Outside or inside, which is more effective?

Advantages of internal insulation

insulate the ceiling, floor, walls in one step;
work can be performed in any weather conditions;
simplicity - insulated surfaces are available throughout the entire height.

Disadvantages of internal insulation

The freezing point during internal insulation shifts into the wall, which contributes to its faster destruction. In addition, if the extension room already has finishing, decorative coating will have to be dismantled.

Advantages of external insulation

displacement of the freezing point in the insulation, due to which the rate of destruction of walls decreases;
the internal living space of the extension is preserved;
no debris from indoor construction work;
the possibility of using the extension during work, the way of life is preserved;
additional protection of wooden walls from getting wet.

Disadvantage of external insulation

Insulation of concrete floor

List of materials you will need:

insulation – mineral wool boards;
vapor barrier;
scotch;
damper tape;
reinforcing mesh;
screed solution.

Stages of insulation

On concrete base a layer of vapor barrier film is applied. The insulation joints must be carefully taped to ensure the overall tightness of the layer.
Insulation boards are laid on top of the waterproofing material. It is important that the blocks fit tightly to each other, there are no gaps or cracks left.
The entire perimeter of the room is covered with damper tape. This is necessary to compensate in case of expansion of the screed.
Another layer of vapor barrier and then a reinforcing mesh is applied on top of the mineral wool insulation.
The screed is poured. Its thickness should be at least 3 cm.
After the surface has completely dried, any topcoat is applied.

Floor insulation on beams

List of materials - what you will need:

wooden boards, logs;
insulation;
vapor barrier coating;
clay mortar;
plywood.

Stages of work

Attach smaller transverse joists to the floor beams. Lay the boards on the joists with rough, continuous flooring to prevent heat from escaping. Coat the coating with a thick clay solution, wait until it dries and apply a layer of vapor barrier on top. Place insulation boards between the joists and cover it with another layer of vapor barrier. Cover the surface with boards or plywood on top. Lay a decorative coating to your liking on the resulting wooden floor.

Roof insulation

To properly insulate the roof of an extension to a house, the following principle should be observed: all layers of the insulation cake must provide moisture insulation on the outside and vapor permeability on the inside. For thermal insulation of roofs, polystyrene foam, penoplex, and polyurethane foam are used, but mineral wool and other fiber insulation in combination with membrane films for removing water vapor are best suited.

Types of insulation - features, characteristics

Mineral wool. It has low thermal conductivity, is fireproof, durable, flexible, temperature resistant and chemical substances. In addition, mineral wool insulation provides good sound insulation. Cons: a frame is required for installation, after some time of operation it becomes compacted and loses its thermal insulation properties.
Polyurethane foam is produced in three types: flexible, dense, sprayed. Polyurethane foam is easy to install, lightweight, and resistant to biological and chemical environments. Disadvantages - expensive price, quickly ages from ultraviolet radiation, deforms from mechanical stress, has a low vapor permeability indicator, which is why it accumulates moisture, which has a detrimental effect on the walls of the house.
Penofol is environmentally friendly, flexible, and easy to install. The material has low vapor permeability and high combustion resistance. Cons: thin, overly soft. Expanded polystyrene has low weight, sufficient rigidity, and is easy to install and cut. This is a very durable, wear-resistant material. Cons – can’t stand it high temperatures from 100 degrees, has low soundproofing qualities.
Basalt wool is a fibrous material whose properties and performance characteristics are identical to mineral wool. Disadvantages - during operation it becomes compacted, which increases thermal conductivity.
Foam plastic is light and hard, does not lose its operational properties even after prolonged use, it can be mounted either frameless or frame method. Insulation with low vapor permeability and hygroscopicity. Cons: flammable, loved by rodents.
Moss, flax, tow - used for insulation without disturbing appearance the buildings. Such materials are certainly environmentally friendly. Disadvantages: they are specific, difficult to install, and are of interest to animals and birds that build their nests from them.

When insulating an extension with your own hands, it is always better to start with the walls. How to insulate an extension, whether it will be external or internal insulation, depends on the size, characteristics of the room and the personal tastes and preferences of the homeowners. The insulation process itself does not take much time, and the cost of materials for such work will not hit the budget.

Everyone who has Vacation home, no matter whether it is a simple country house or a respectable cottage, over time the thought comes to mind that it would not be a bad idea to slightly increase its usable area. Some people need a garage, some are ready for a bathhouse, while others are simply missing a few square meters to install a small vestibule in front of the entrance to the house. Everyone's goals are different. But in the vast majority of cases, there is only one way to achieve these goals: this is the construction of a small one-story extension, closely adjacent to the main building.

And, what is very surprising, but nevertheless a fact - all home owners want to complete this extension as quickly as possible (before summer is over). And everyone, in a hurry, makes the same mistakes. One of the most common mistakes, or rather, avoidance, is the installation of poor-quality thermal insulation of the attached room. This error is truly widespread, and can be explained very simply. Not all summer residents and gardeners, by virtue of their profession, are involved in construction, and therefore, in the summer, forgetting about the need to insulate the walls of the room is a piece of cake for them. The most interesting thing is that everyone who, for some reason, did not insulate the walls of a wooden extension during construction will still have to do it sooner or later, and therefore will have to spend time collecting and studying the relevant information. Therefore, if you feel that the construction of your extension is not far off, take a couple of minutes and read this article to the end.

So, we are learning how to insulate the premises of an already erected extension.
First of all, it is necessary to determine how the room will be insulated - from the outside or from the inside. Modern building materials and technologies make it possible to do both. However, in relation to the dacha sector, the simplest and most economical option is internal insulation. That's what we'll decide - we'll insulate our extension from the inside.

The next step is choosing insulation. For an extension, a sufficient thickness of insulation is 50-75 mm. The most favorite type of insulation among summer residents is mineral wool slabs. I will not waste my and your precious time on detailed review relevant segment domestic market building materials, but I will immediately indicate those manufacturers who produce the best (in terms of price-quality ratio) thermal insulation materials based on mineral wool:

"ISOVER";
"Rockwool";
"URSA"
"Izorok."

Price per 1 sq. m of mineral wool insulation from the above manufacturers is in the range of 65-90 rubles.

We sorted out the insulation. But insulation alone is not enough. Here is a list of other materials you will need for internal insulation our extension:

Wooden blocks (slats) of rectangular cross-section measuring 5x2 cm;
Pasted waterproofing (film or membrane), necessary to protect the insulation from moisture. The cost of waterproofing is approximately 20-40 rubles per 1 sq. m. m.;
Gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKL) 9.5-12.5 mm thick for external finishing cladding of insulated walls. Average cost - 70-80 rubles. for 1 sq.m.;
Profiled and fastening metal elements (for making a frame and fastening gypsum board sheets);
A little putty for sealing joints between plasterboard sheets.

The materials are complete. All that remains is to mount them correctly. The procedure for properly insulating an extension is as follows:

Lathing arrangement: nail to inner surface the walls and ceilings of our premises are wooden blocks or boards (see item 1 of the list of materials) with a step of 50-75 cm (the step size is equal to the width of our thermal insulation boards);
Installation of insulation: we lay mineral wool slabs along the sheathing of wooden blocks (both on the walls and on the ceiling);
Waterproofing device: the surface of the installed insulation boards over the entire area is covered with waterproofing (see paragraph 2 of the list of materials);
Installation of the frame for gypsum boards (see paragraph 4 of the list of materials): we install horizontal and vertical ones on top of the waterproofing coating of walls and ceilings metal profiles, on which the external plasterboard sheathing will subsequently be supported;
Covering walls and ceilings with gypsum plasterboard sheets (see clause 3 of the list of materials);
Sealing joints between sheets of drywall with putty, followed by cleaning;
Finishing of the inner surface of walls and ceilings (optional): painting, tiling or any other type of finishing to your taste.

That's all! The total cost of materials for insulating the premises of a wooden extension with an area of 3x4 m and a height of 2.7 m is approximately 8-10 thousand rubles.