How to run a wire over an installed tile. Stages of installation of warm electric floors under the tile. Varieties of floors under a tile

Wiring in the bathroom must be safe and at the same time functional. The old standard, when a lamp is installed in the middle of the room, and sockets and switches are taken out of the room, has not been practiced for a long time. To date, there are waterproof electrical accessories and automation that will completely protect a person from damage. electric shock. Next, we will talk about how to conduct electrical wiring in the bathroom with your own hands and what requirements are placed on it.

Primary requirements

What do you need to know? First of all, according to electrical safety, a bathroom or shower room is divided into 4 zones, which are numbered from 0 to 3.

Wherein:

• 0 - bath volume, shower tray, sinks and other places where there is water.
• 1 - around zone 0. These are adjacent walls to the bath, sink, etc.
• 2 - located at a distance of 60 cm from the edge of the bathroom, for non-rectangular containers - within a radius (shower) of 60 cm from the edges of zone 0.
• 3 - considered safe (conditionally).

If all the requirements are met, then you will not encounter any problems regarding electrical safety in the future.

Installation instructions

Step 1 - Create a Circuit

First you need to decide on the wiring diagram in the bathroom. You must consider what electrical appliances will be installed, what type of lighting is chosen, and no less important point- what kind of heating will be present.

1. The junction box, for reasons of electrical safety, must be installed outside the room.
2. Over the entire area, at least three outlets must be placed: for, for a hair dryer near the mirror and for electric boiler or boiler (if present).
3. The switch, by analogy with the box, is displayed in the next room, next to the front door.
4. As we have already said, automation is installed on each group of wires separately: sockets, lamps, powerful equipment.
5. The electrical wiring in the bathroom is laid in the wall under the ceiling, parallel to the floor. To the outlets, the line descends perpendicularly, strictly down. If you decide to make a hanging or stretch ceiling, wires can be passed through it (between the profiles or under the film).

You should pay attention to the fact that all sockets and switches must be at a safe distance from the water source - at least 60 cm. Consider this fact so as not to endanger your life.

Having drawn a wiring diagram in the bathroom, you can proceed further - to counting the amount of materials.

Step 2 - Choose accessories

On this stage it is necessary not only to select suitable wiring elements, but also to determine their technical characteristics.

In order to make electrical wiring in the bathroom with your own hands, we recommend choosing the following materials:

• Three-core cable, copper, with a cross section of 2.5 mm 2 for sockets and 1.5 mm 2 for lamps. If you have a powerful instantaneous water heater or an electric boiler, then calculate the cable cross-section for it by current and power. The best option would be to use a foreign cable, however, the Russian analogue of VVGng-LS will be a good replacement for price and quality.
• Dowel clamps for .
• Waterproof sockets and switches, with IP rating of at least "44" and splash-proof cover. Also, the products must have a grounding contact.
• Waterproof, it is better to use spotlights if possible, because. they are easier to install, look neat on the ceiling, and can also run on 12 V.
• For the potential equalization system, power wire 1 * 6. Additionally, you need to purchase tips.

Step 3 - Getting Started

So, for starters, it is necessary, according to the wiring diagram in the bathroom, to independently create special grooves in the walls - strobes, for laying the cable. Recesses also need to be made for sockets, switches, junction box. To do this, you can use a drill with a special crown, with a diameter of 68 mm.

Further, the socket boxes and the box are installed in their seats and securely fixed with a solution.

After that, you need to fix the wiring in the strobes yourself using the dowel clamps or grandfather's method- grab with a solution every 20 cm. The ends of the cable are stripped of insulation and threaded to the sockets.

Now you can install the cores of sockets and switches in seats. We draw your attention to the fact that it is better to fix the decorative cover after the entire repair, so that it does not get dirty during the work.

When the wiring is fixed in the wall, you can proceed to the RCD with your own hands. Do not rush to connect them, because. you will first need to check the correct wiring in the bathroom.

When the wiring in the room is completed, you need to check the line for presence with a multimeter. If it is missing, you did everything right and you can proceed to decorative trim walls.

Only one remains important nuance, to which a serious approach should be ensured - you need in the bathroom. To do this, we take our single-core copper wire and connect the case together washing machine, boiler, sinks, tubs and risers of cold and hot water. All these "points" must be connected to the ground bus installed in your input shield.

Please note that if there is no ground bus in the shield, be sure to use a safe one with a PE wire.

It should also be noted that it is best to use for heating, which can be easily laid on the floor on your own. That's the whole technology of electrical work. As you can see, you can do the wiring in the bathroom with your own hands, because. the device of the system is nothing supernatural!

Finally

Currently popular are hanging plasterboard ceilings, and plastic panels. If you decide to use them, it will only make it easier electric installation work. The fact is that when wiring in the bathroom under false ceiling it will not be necessary to create strobes, but simply lay the cable in a protective corrugated pipe as shown in the photo. The corrugation, in turn, is fastened with clips to the profile without any problems.

Another important point that I would like to draw your attention to is the lack of grounding in the apartment shield. Indeed, it happens that the ground wire may be absent. In this case, you must definitely use a new, three-wire, after which it is imperative to make a potential equalization system.

That's all I wanted to tell you about how to make electrical wiring in the bathroom with your own hands. We hope that the information was useful for you and useful in electrical work!

Similar material:

The technology of laying an electric underfloor heating under a tile is quite laborious, but even an inexperienced person can do it. So that readers of "" can independently install the heating cable (or thermomat), then we will consider detailed instructions with a connection diagram and a video!

Which option to give preference?

Underfloor heating from the network can be represented by a heating cable or a thermomat. We discussed in detail the advantages and disadvantages of each of them in the corresponding article. Now let's briefly talk about which option is better to choose.

An electric underfloor heating from a cable under a tile is cheaper, but at the same time, the calculation of its length and the installation itself are more difficult. It is recommended to use it if you can sacrifice the height of the ceiling (because the screed will be thicker).

As for the heating mat, it has a number of advantages, because in fact, it is an improved version of the explorer. The design feature is that the same cable is already placed on a special fiberglass mesh, which allows you to maintain an even pitch between turns.

In addition, the convenience of the thermomat is that to calculate the material, you just need to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and, based on given parameter choose the right size roll.

It is up to you to decide which option to give preference to, but we still recommend using the installation of an electric mat, in addition, this option has many positive reviews on the Internet.

If you decide to choose heating mats for installing underfloor heating, we advise you to pay attention to the products of the EKF company, and in particular to the UYUT underfloor heating system. You can choose heating mats exactly for your conditions - ready-made kits vary in size and power. Choice of mechanical or electronic temperature controller with weekly programming function. Speaking about the thermomats themselves, I would like to highlight the full shielding of the current-carrying conductors, due to which the floor surface is evenly heated. You can find out more about EKF heating mats by clicking on the link: https://ekfgroup.com/catalog/sistemy-obogreva/sistema-teplyy-pol.

Laying technology

In this article, we will consider laying a warm electric floor under tiles using a heating cable, as well as a special mat. Preparatory work will be similar, the difference will be only in the main process.

We prepare the surface

First you need to remove the old flooring and clean the surface of debris. If there are no defects, you can do without a screed (rough). In the event that the floor has irregularities, it is necessary to initially level them with a solution, with a thickness of 3 to 7 cm.

Schema creation

Before calculation work, it is necessary to draw up a diagram for connecting an electric underfloor heating under a tile, on which to mark the step of laying wires or a heating mat.

• at least 10 cm must be retreated from the walls;
• in places where furniture without legs is installed, as well as household appliances laying the material is prohibited (heat dissipation will be difficult, and the entire warm air will return back to the conductor, which will cause it to overheat and fail);
• it is not necessary to lay the material in a straight line, you can carefully cut the mesh to bend the track in the right direction (this option allows you to reduce energy consumption by focusing heating only on the necessary areas).

Material calculation

If you decide to make a warm floor under the tiles with your own hands as the main heating, it is necessary to carry out the calculation taking into account that a heater with a power of at least 140-180 W is required for 1 m 2. For an auxiliary heating system, you can use a power of not more than 140 W / m 2 (80 W is also possible, it all depends on how well the room is insulated).

All you need is to calculate the area of ​​the room (length * width) and subtract from this value the area occupied by furniture without legs and household appliances (because it is forbidden to lay material under them). As a result, you will get a useful heating area. After that, based on the result obtained, the required total power of the heating element and its length are determined. The linear power of one meter of heating cable can vary from 16 to 21 W/m.

For example, if the area of ​​the room is 10 m 2 and you have chosen a heater with a power of 100 W/m 2, then the result will be a total required power of 1 kW. We choose a cable of 20 W / m, the length of which should be 50 m (1000/20).

The thermostat is selected according to the same principle, based on the usable area and required power. Additionally, you need to purchase a mounting tape, with which the heater will be attached to the concrete screed.

Checking old wiring

As you understand, for a room with an area of ​​​​25-30 m 2, you will need a sufficiently powerful electric underfloor heating under the tile, which will put a noticeable load on. You must exercise and determine if your wiring is suitable for the new heating system. If it turns out that the diameter of the cores does not match, it is necessary to use a new, more powerful one. Also check that circuit breaker and RCD corresponded to the new current load.

Surface thermal insulation

Now we turn to the installation and the first thing to do is to qualitatively insulate the surface for laying the electric floor heating. This will affect the efficiency of using the system, as well as its economy. The best insulation in this case, penofol is considered - roll material with self-adhesive layer and foil coating. All you need is to glue the butt joint over the entire concrete surface, after which the joints should be sealed with foil tape. It should be noted that penofol should go a few centimeters onto the walls to increase the thermal insulation of the room.

If you want to slightly reduce the height of the room, then instead of penofol, you can put another insulation, for example, polypropylene or expanded polystyrene.

At the end of the robot, it is recommended to glue a damper tape around the perimeter of the walls on top of the insulation, the purpose of which is to compensate for the expansion of the coating when heated. You also need to put a metal mesh on top of the heat-insulating layer, which will prevent direct contact with the heater and will simplify the process of installing an electric underfloor heating under the tile.

Temperature sensor installation

To monitor and control the system, it is necessary to install a special thermostat and temperature sensor. The thermostat is a regulator (mechanical or electronic) with which you can set the optimal temperature regime, as well as the system on/off time. It is mounted in the wall, next to the sockets.

As for the temperature sensor, it must be installed in the floor itself. To do this, a special strobe is created in the wall from the thermostat, which is directed strictly vertically to the ceiling. Next, the sensor is placed in a corrugated pipe and led to the temperature control point of the electric underfloor heating under the tile. This place is the middle between two turns of the cable, while there should not be any intersections near. The corrugation protects the sensor from damage, and also allows access to it at any time (for example, when it fails). For reliability, it is recommended that the end of the corrugation that will be in the screed be filled with sealant so that the solution does not get inside.

Control check of a heater

Before laying a cable (or mat), it is necessary to measure its resistance. This value should not differ from the passport data by more than 10%. To do this, you need to use a special device - a multimeter (shown in the photo below), which also determines where the phase is, if absent. If the resistance corresponds to the nominal, then it is possible to install an electric underfloor heating under the tile.

Cable fastening (or thermomat)

Now that the surface is already fully prepared, it is necessary to fix the heating element. If you use a cable, fasten with a mounting tape, as shown in the photo:

The distance between the turns must be the same over the entire area, otherwise the electric heating of the floor will be uneven. Heating mats are easier to install, because the distance between the turns is maintained along the entire length. All that is needed is to spread the material according to the diagram and connect it correctly to the thermostat.

When the laying of the electric underfloor heating under the tiles is completed, it is necessary to check the correct connection by measuring the resistance with a multimeter. The resulting value should match the one you measured before laying.

Filling the screed

To do concrete mortar You need to prepare the following ratio of materials:

• 4 parts of sand;
• 1 part cement;
• 5 pieces of crushed stone;
• 0.6 parts of water;
• 1% by weight of cement special plasticizer (gives the solution elasticity).

It should be noted that the amount of water must be small, otherwise cracks in the screed may occur. As for expanded clay and perlite, it is strictly forbidden to add them to the solution, because. these materials disrupt heat transfer and are one of the causes of conductor overheating.

The thickness of the screed cake should be from 3 to 5 cm. It is not recommended to go beyond these values. After pouring, you must wait until the solution has completely solidified. Despite the fact that the screed will harden in a couple of days, it will completely dry out only after 4 weeks (or maybe more). Until this time, it is forbidden to turn on the electric floor heating.

We also draw your attention to the fact that a screed is required only if a heating cable is used. The thermomat can immediately after laying serve as a base for tile adhesive.

Laying tiles

After the screed has set (2-3 days), you can move on to tiling the floor without wasting time. It is recommended to do this only if you have experience, because you need to ensure that the surface is strictly horizontal. The tile "sits" on a special glue, after which the installation of an electric underfloor heating under the tile is considered complete!

That's the whole do-it-yourself laying technology. We recommend that you watch the video in which you can see some of the nuances of the event:

Video instructions for installing a warm electric floor

Heating cable laying

Also read:

Masters "with gray hair at the temples" remember how open wiring was done thirty years ago, they saw what changes took place in technology fifteen years ago and can compare with in modern ways open wiring. So that you also have something to compare with and make it easier to make decisions, we will do short review all existing and existing methods.

It is now so beautifully called, but before it was the only option for open wiring. It was used not only in the bath, but also in residential premises. The wires were fixed on porcelain insulator rollers.

For this wiring electric wires must be only single-core, the cups are fixed at a distance of no more than ten centimeters, plus one at each turn. The wires had to be twisted, and this is a long and tedious task. In addition, white insulation became dusty and dirty for a short time, it was very often settled on permanent place residence of various spider bugs.

Today, open wiring by the described method is mounted only by great lovers of antiquity, who do not know what it will look like in a few years.

More good option, electrical cables were hidden in plastic pipes, which looked much better on the walls. In addition, plastic pipes served additional protection from mechanical damage.

Disadvantages - the complexity of installation and routine maintenance. Electricians still remember how difficult it was to pull cables through pipes, especially if there were turns.

Often the pipes were cut, and after pulling the cables, they were connected with couplings. Another significant drawback is the great complexity during production. repair work. Due to the low cost, open wiring in plastic pipes is still used quite often today.

Open wiring in the cable channel

According to most professional electricians, the most the best option open wiring. In essence, it can be called open only by the technology of laying cables; in appearance, it bears little resemblance to the usual options; rather, it can be called semi-open.

Manufacturers produce a huge number of options both in terms of the number of cables and the method of fixation, overall dimensions and availability of additional accessories. The advantages include ease of installation, durability, safety of operation, versatility of use, the presence of numerous special additional fittings. Additional elements solve issues with internal and external corners, turns, connections of sockets, switches, mounting boxes, etc.

It is on this type of open wiring that we will dwell in the article. Before directly considering the issues of fixing cable channels, you should learn a little about their varieties and technical capabilities.

Cable channel prices

cable channel

Types and features of channels

Cable channels are classified according to several important features.

Video - How to choose and install a cable channel

The main parameters when choosing a cable channel are the cross section and the number of cables that are planned to be laid in the network. Of course, you need to pay attention to the appearance, try to choose an option that would harmonize as much as possible with existing interior bath rooms.

Stages of wiring in a cable duct

Step 1. Draw a plan for the placement of electrical networks, appliances and equipment.

Estimate several options, consider the possibility of increasing the power and the number of electrical fittings. Depending on the maximum total power of all consumers electrical energy, select the cable diameter. To facilitate the choice, be guided by table No. 1.

Experienced electricians do not keep all the values ​​in their heads, they only remember that 1 mm2 of a copper cable section is designed for 1.3 kW of power at a voltage of 220 V, and 1 mm2 of an aluminum cable holds only 0.5 kW at the same voltage. What follows is simple arithmetic. If a section of 2.5 mm2 is indicated on the sheath of a copper cable, then it can be used to connect current consumers with a total power of 2.5 × 1.3 = 3.25 kV. Always round up and use this cable for 3.0kW.

Practical advice. For a bath, it is quite enough to buy an ordinary plastic box with dimensions of 40 × 25 mm, a cable that can withstand power up to 10 kW easily enters it. In the implementation there are boxes made under ceiling plinth or skirting board. Perfect solution, but it needs to be thought out even before finishing the walls or floor. We recommend that the central wiring be mounted above the floor and the terminals below lighting, mounting boxes, sockets and switches to do from below. But this is not for everyone, you can use other mounting options electrical wiring.

You should be drawn as a general circuit diagram electrical wiring starting from the introductory switchboard, as well as a separate circuit for each bath room.

Choose fasteners depending on the material of the walls. Under the tree you need self-tapping screws, under drywall special hardware and brick dowels.

Each manufacturer of cable channels produces a wide range of additional elements: internal and outside corners, triangles, plugs, couplings, mounting boxes, sockets, switches, etc. Carefully count the nomenclature and the total quantity, we advise you to take a few pieces in stock. They cost a penny, it will end up being much cheaper than going to the store again to purchase the missing items.

Step 2 Make a markup. For example, we will take a bathhouse, in which the walls are already fully sheathed and flooring is laid. There remains only one option for open wiring in cable channels - over the walls. It is better to do the wiring near the floor, in this case it is much easier to drill holes and fix the cable channel. Working under the ceiling all the time with outstretched arms is tiring and uncomfortable. Moreover, you will have to hold a rather heavy drill and a screwdriver in your hands.

Experienced electricians on the walls make markings only for mounting boxes, switches and sockets, cable channels are installed immediately without drawing preliminary lines. They take a section of the channel, put it against the wall, set the level from above (or from the side) and adjust the spatial position. Then, with one hand, they hold the box, and with the other hand they drill holes in the bottom for the hardware with a drill. This is quite difficult, you need not only to have experience, but also to be able to optimally organize the installation process. We will tell you how to make detailed markup for beginners, this will help to avoid annoying mistakes.

Hardware prices

set of hardware

How to mark up cable channels

You need to have a water level, a blued rope, a ruler and a pencil.

Do not be afraid to use blue - broken lines will be covered with a cable channel. Start marking from the switchboard, while at the same time take into account not only the characteristics of the cables and the placement of sockets, mounting boxes, switches, etc., but also the layout and purpose of the premises.

The markings and calculations are completed, you can proceed with the installation.

Step 3 Fastening cable channels. Mounting methods depend on the material of the walls and the material of the finishing sheathing. Let's consider each option in detail.

Prices for building level

construction level

Fastening cable channels to plasterboard boards

Gypsum boards consist of two layers of paper with gypsum in between. The material is relatively new and is very popular among professional construction companies - it is easy to work with, it is very technological, etc. But consumers cannot say so much about this material. good words- the strength of gypsum boards is below any criticism. Remove paper from drywall and it will crumble, any tangible force on drywall does not remain without visible damage to the surface. Accordingly, it is rather problematic to attach cable channels to such material. It makes no sense to use screws (albeit special ones). It is necessary to “overdo it” a little while screwing, as the thread in the plaster will scroll and the fastening strength will approach zero.

On such walls, we recommend using only plastic cable channels, the use of aluminum is highly undesirable. You need to fix the plastic with liquid nails, in the most critical places you can additionally use special screws.

Practical advice. Due to the fact that gypsum boards have a decorative finish, it must be checked for adhesion with liquid nails. Not all types of paints and not all types of wallpaper are suitable for gluing. First, in some secluded place, glue a small piece of a plastic box and check the strength of the bonding in a day. Everything is fine - you can use this technology.

Apply liquid nails to the box with reverse side a thin layer, the application strip should be wavy to increase the adhesion area. There should be just enough glue so that during the pressing of the cable channels it does not protrude beyond their perimeter. To increase the reliability of fastening, you can additionally fix it with self-tapping screws.

Fastening cable channels to brick walls

A complex and time-consuming option, you must use dowels. The advantage of dowels is high reliability, but in our case, no tangible physical stress on the channels is expected, the advantage becomes unnecessary, and large labor costs remain. How to fix cable channels on dowels?

1. Put the cut blank of the channel in place of fixation, drill holes in the bottom with a drill for metal at a distance of 15 ÷ 20 centimeters. Drill holes carefully, only the end of the drill needs to be deepened into the wall. In this way, markings for installing dowels on the channel and wall are simultaneously made.

   

2. Take away the channel, change the drill to the winning one, switch the drill from drilling mode to punching mode. Pobeditovoy drill make holes for the dowels.

   

   

   Important. Drill carefully, select the correct diameter of the drill. It should be a few tenths of a millimeter smaller than the diameter of the plastic element of the dowel. This element should enter the hole with little effort.

3. Put in place plastic cable channel, align the holes in it and the wall, insert plastic elements dowels, hammer in the metal dowels.

   

If the wall is uneven, then choose places for drilling holes in convex sections, so you can avoid visible deformation of the cable channel. Wrong - not a problem. Most metal dowels are threaded, you can unscrew them a little, loosen the pressure against the wall and thereby correct the deformation that has appeared.

In all places where individual sections of cable channels are cut or joined, additional elements to be connected must be fixed. This general rule for all ways of fixing cable channels.

Professional installers for fixing cable ducts to brick or concrete surfaces use a pneumatic gun and special nails. But a pneumatic nail gun is expensive equipment; it is not advisable to purchase it for one bath.

Air nailer prices

pneumatic nail gun

Fastening cable channels to wooden walls

For baths - the most common option, fastening is carried out with screws, the length of the screws is approximately 1.5 ÷ 2 centimeters. You can first drill holes in the cable channel on a flat plane at a distance of up to twenty centimeters, and then use them for fixing. It's easier, but longer. If there is practice construction works, then the screws can be screwed simultaneously into the bottom of the cable channel and the wall.

Problems may arise during the laying of open wiring on walls upholstered with clapboard. The boards of the lining have a profile, the screws should be fastened carefully. If the self-tapping screw hit the convex section of the profile - excellent, you can fully tighten it. If you have to screw the self-tapping screw into the concave part of the profile, do not tighten the self-tapping screw to the stop, make sure that it does not violate the linearity of the plastic channel.

We have already advised buying special additional elements for passing external and internal corners, wiring at right angles, tees, etc. All joints can be cut at right angles, the cut may not be perfectly even. Overhead elements will close problem areas, the connection will be beautiful, work will be significantly accelerated. You can cut a plastic cable channel with a hacksaw for metal, special assembly scissors or a circular grinder (grinder) with a metal disc.

And what to do if for some reason there are no additional elements, how to cut the channel so that the connection is not striking?

First, use standard long channels, do not rush to cut them into pieces. You should always have all the segments at hand, among them you can choose the one you need in length and not touch the whole one. It will be necessary for this to shift the outlet a few centimeters in one direction or another - there is nothing to worry about.

If you need long time store the purchased cable channels, then lay them on a flat plane, do not allow direct sunlight to fall on them. Over time, all plastics under the influence of sunlight darken and lose their plasticity. Do not believe the manufacturer's advertisements about "total resistance" to UV rays due to modern technologies, various innovative additives do not completely protect plastic from such influences, but only slow down the processes of physical aging.

Mounted cable channel

In a modern bathroom, there are necessarily lamps, sockets, fans, a washing machine, less often boilers and other household appliances. About 20-30 years ago, the electrical wiring in the bathroom was not as loaded as it is now. However, in addition to the load, the power grid is also in conditions of high humidity. All this requires special care and compliance with all norms and rules during installation with your own hands.

A wet floor or wall conducts current, since any moisture is an excellent conductor. In order to avoid various incidents and injuries in the future, the following rules must be observed:

1. Lay electrical wires only under the finishing elements.
2. The wiring must be in a corrugated sleeve.
3. Junction boxes, connectors, twists, terminal blocks are prohibited inside the bathroom. Use only solid pieces of cable coming from the outer box.
4. It is forbidden to place sockets and mechanisms for adjusting lighting at a distance closer than 70 cm to the bathroom, sink, water pipes, shower room and closer than 90 cm to the floor.
5. Sockets are bred separately from fans and lighting.
6. Pay attention to devices, lamps, sockets and switches: they must have an IP 44 protection class or higher.

Installation steps

Tools

Before starting work, you need to acquire some tools, namely:

• wall chaser, drill or puncher;
• Phillips and slotted screwdrivers, as well as a probe screwdriver;
• tape measure at least five meters;
• level;
• chisel with a hammer;
• pliers;
• tape and a knife.

If in some places it is not possible to use a wall chaser or a puncher, you can make gates (cavities) with a hammer and chisel.

Necessary materials

In order for the wiring in the bathroom to last a long time, you need to choose quality materials: waterproof type sockets, preferably 2.5 mm triple insulated copper wires and other safety equipment electrical network. Wires with strong bends and damaged insulation are not allowed.

Getting rid of the old

Was the wiring in the bathroom more than 15 years old? It is recommended to replace it with a new one in order to avoid overheating, fires and frequent knocking out of the machine. When combining a toilet and bathroom, replace the wires in both rooms. It is likely that power was supplied to the premises separately. Feel free to inspect all the wires.

How is the schema drawn up?

The correct circuit is a reliable assistant to an electrician. Think about the place of installation of electrical appliances, wires, sockets, decide on the type of lighting, in addition to this, you should think about how the room will be heated. Because the bathroom high humidity, the wiring must be hidden.

• It is recommended to make at least 2-3 outlets in the bathroom.
• For a water heater and a washing machine, install a separate outlet for each appliance.
• Place the switch only outside the room.
• Each group of wires must have a separate automation.
• A line is led to each outlet perpendicularly, exactly down.

For hollow walls that are sheathed with plasterboard or other panels, the wires must be in the void between the wall and the cladding, for walls that do not have voids under the sheathing, strobing is performed.

Wiring

After the walls have been marked out, and the calculations have been carried out, it is necessary to prepare the places for lamps, switches and sockets as accurately as possible. Further, depending on the type of finish, there are several options for how to place the wires in the wall:

1. Between decorative coating and the wall has a void.
2. It is difficult to pass the cable between the coating and the wall due to the small gap.
3. Panels are missing.

The first option assumes the presence of voids in which wires are placed in a corrugated sleeve, passed through drilled holes in vertical profiles.

The second option involves strobe walls directly with laying the cable in the sleeve into the strobe and fixing it with special brackets.

In the third case, as in the second, cavities are created, however, they must be of such depth that the wiring in the corrugated sleeve fits completely there. After that, the strobes should be covered alabaster mortar and align.

Later, a socket box is installed, followed by fixing it with alabaster and attaching triple wires (one core is grounding, the others are zero and phase) to sockets, lamps and other devices.

Safety and grounding

Modern electrical wiring is grounded and consists of three cores: two of them are zero and phase, the third is ground. In ancient times, when the wiring consisted of two components, they additionally grounded the room by running a cable with a large cross section from the bathroom to the distribution block on the flight of stairs. Now the wires are three-core and go directly to the distributor.

RCD application

The use of a residual current device contributes to safety during the operation of electrical appliances and is mandatory for connection to the bathroom circuit. The inlet shield is the place where the RCD is located. As the name implies, the device cuts off the electricity supply if the indicators of the outgoing and passing current do not match, so that the person is not shocked. Without experience, it is better not to install this device with your own hands.

Circuit breakers

Together with the RCD they put automatic machines. Do not confuse the RCD with a separate machine, which stops conducting current during short circuits and overloads. In electrical panels, a different number of machines are installed depending on the number of electrical appliances: for lighting in any rooms - one, for sockets - another, etc. For lighting, the recommended power of switches is 10 A with a load of at least 2200 W per hour. For example, one light bulb consumes no more than 60 watts, washing machines- from 2000 W per hour or more, so for more powerful devices you will have to install a 25 A machine with a load of at least 5500 W.

Let's deal with the main ground bus

In new houses or houses with upgraded networks, the floor box is usually equipped with Switchgear, you can also find the main ground bus there. Determine what is being used new system, it is possible along the riser: a five-wire cable is routed through it. The tire is made only of copper and steel. It includes 5 or more places for connection, it is from them that the ground wires come: one is mounted in the shield, all the rest - to the current conductors (there may be a different number). When replacing the old wiring, the phase wire is connected instead of the old one, and zero - together with the neutral wires. It is forbidden to connect all ground wires on one bolt (clamp).

The electric floor also requires grounding. This is done by laying a metal mesh over the screed, and a ground cable is connected to the mesh with a terminal.

Safety sockets

Sockets require the installation of a separate RCD with a rated current of the same or slightly more (but not less) than that of the machine. With a large gap in the rated voltage, the device simply will not work.

Modern standard wattage washing machines require 16 amp waterproof type ceramic sockets. outer surface. Sockets must be equipped with special covers and protected from splashes.

Should I use junction boxes?

In the junction box there are connections for several electrical lines, which are connected using twisting or terminal blocks, from there one wire goes to the shield. It is located outside the bathroom. The main plus is the saving of cable and material resources. But there is a significant drawback - unreliability, because the terminal blocks and twists do not tolerate high voltage quite well.

Grounding option for a private house

Electrical wiring installed in a private house can be grounded independently with your own hands thanks to a cable connected to a triangle that goes into the ground or a three-piece fitting. After that, the necessary wire is attached to the welded bolt with a nut.

be careful

1. Before starting work, always completely de-energize the apartment.
2. Use only serviceable and high-quality tools.
3. Be careful, because any mistake can lead to unexpected consequences in the future.

Do-it-yourself wiring installation is within the power of everyone, but before that you need to study many nuances, from the choice of material to safety precautions. Without the proper tools, knowledge and self-confidence, it is better to entrust this work to professionals.

Installation of underfloor heating is possible in rooms with high ceilings. Most often they are mounted in the bathroom, but underfloor heating under the tiles can be installed over the entire area of ​​​​the apartment.

There are several heating methods that need to be chosen individually, depending on the height of the ceilings, the condition of the wiring and the water pressure in the apartment or country house. The most popular are heating mats, which are easy to install.

In this article, we examined the basic rules for laying infrared and cable underfloor heating. They also brought detailed briefing for the arrangement of a heating system for tiles using heating mats. The material is provided with step-by-step photos and video recommendations from specialists in laying underfloor heating.

Before choosing a floor heating system, you need to consider that they have limitations. Despite the fact that heating systems can completely replace the heating in an apartment, this cannot be done according to the norms of Russian legislation.

These restrictions are due to a number of reasons:

1. It is only allowed to use in apartments, and the massive use of such systems in the house leads to an increase in the load on the electrical network.
2. Mass or partial transition to electric heating leads to an imbalance in the heating system in the house.

Since the floor will not be used as the main source of heat in the apartment, you can save on its installation. Savings consist in laying a heating cable or film only in those places that are free from furniture.

This will reduce the consumption of thermal energy, which will make it more economical in the long run, as well as at a time, when purchasing building materials and installation

In a private house, the possibilities of using this technology are much wider. Depending on the available energy sources, you can choose an acceptable option between water and electric view heating.

If the house is equipped autonomous sources electricity, such as or, of course, it is worth making a choice in favor of electric, i.e. cable or infrared, heating systems.

If electricity is supplied through power lines, then using the electric option for heating a private house will be very expensive. In that case, it is better to make a choice in favor of. It will last about 35 years, after which it will require replacement.

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Installation of mats and installation of the control system

The process of installing electric mats is easier and faster than installing a cable. It is enough to place them on the heating area, which was determined when drawing up the scheme.

The cable will have to be laid on a mounting tape, which is a metal fastener that is fixed in the floor screed. When laying the cable, it is necessary to make turns of the same width

This will ensure an even level of heating of the floor surface. During installation, it is not recommended to break the cable.

After laying the cable, you need to install. It performs an important function - maintaining the desired temperature of the floor covering.

This allows you to reduce energy consumption, since periodically the heating will be turned off when the set temperature is reached. If the temperature sensor detects a decrease in the mode set by the user, the heating will automatically turn on.

To install the control unit in the wall, drill a hole of the required diameter. There must be a source of electricity near the installation site of the unit. It could be an outlet.

The hole should be located above 30 cm from the floor surface. A vertical channel is punched down from the hole, where the corrugation for the temperature sensor will be installed.

The opposite end of the corrugation should be located between the turns of the heating cable at an equal distance. If you do not follow this rule, then the sensor readings will be too high.

When connecting the heating cable to the control unit, you must follow the instructions from the equipment manufacturer. Before connecting, you need to check the resistance of the wires with a special device.

Rules for laying infrared floor heating

Despite structural differences, it is just as easy to install as electrical mats. But there is a difference between them. When connecting a film heater, not a serial, but a parallel connection is used.

From a constructive point of view, this is a more reliable method, since if a separate module fails, the rest will continue to function.

Such a floor has the advantage of reducing energy consumption due to its reduced consumption compared to electric mats. The film is sold in rolls and purchased in the quantity required for the heating area. The film can be cut, but only in those places where it is allowed by the manufacturer

The film must be laid with a slight overlap, strictly following the markings. The modules are held together with adhesive tape. This is a temporary method of fastening, since after pouring with a self-leveling floor, the need for fastening will disappear.

We examined in more detail the features of the film type of heating in.

Installation guide for electric underfloor heating

The quality of the coating depends on the condition of the base on which it is to be laid. Work should begin with the dismantling of the old coating. Everything must be dismantled, including the old screed.

You will need a blower to work. It is also necessary to think in advance how to transport and where to take out the old concrete. Dumping construction waste into garbage bins is prohibited

After removing the old coating, it is necessary to remove all small debris and dust. After that, you need to inspect the floor area and, if there are cracks, they must be repaired. When the floor surface is prepared, you can proceed to waterproofing and insulation.

Stage # 1 - installation of insulation under the electric floor

Insulation must be laid on the prepared base. It is preferable to use cork sheets. They have sufficient density and do not sag under the weight of the screed, as happens with polystyrene foam.

The use of low density insulation will lead to the need to dismantle the finished floor due to material depreciation.

Cheap polystyrene foam causes the screed under the tile to crack. This inevitably leads to delamination and damage. tiles. First, small cracks appear, and then the tile peels off.

The insulation is attached to the surface by gluing on bituminous mastic. Due to the use of this material, not only the fixation of cork sheets is achieved, but also waterproofing.

The service life of underfloor heating also depends on the quality of gluing. After waiting 5-6 hours, you can proceed to pouring the screed. The thickness of the screed must be at least 3 cm.

When using a self-leveling floor, there is no need for leveling with a rule, as happens with self-mixed cement mortars. After work, you need to leave the surface to dry completely, for about 3-4 days.

Stage #2 - laying heating mats

After hardening of the bulk solution, you can proceed with the installation of a warm floor under the tile. First you need to outline with chalk the places where mats will not be installed. This will help you navigate and avoid overspending material.

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Most often, electronics fail, which is easy to replace and continue to use underfloor heating. In the event of a control unit failure, it will be difficult to get a new one if the manufacturer stops producing heating systems. Temperature sensors are easier to match as they are interchangeable in many models.

Have you installed tile underfloor heating in your home? What heating system did you use? How satisfied are you with the result and have you experienced any type of breakdown? Share your experience of installing and operating underfloor heating - leave your comments below this article.