Competent insulation of the attic from the inside allows you to use the room all year round in addition, it helps to significantly save on heating and electricity costs for heating the building as a whole.

Attic insulation options depend on at what stage of house construction. In the article, we will figure out how to properly perform thermal insulation, the better it is to insulate the premises, and we will offer step-by-step instructions on how to do the attic insulation from the inside with your own hands.

How to insulate the attic floor

How to properly insulate the floor on reinforced concrete floors

To insulate the floor, first we clean the slab from debris and dust, close up cracks and irregularities with a cement-sand mortar. Next, we carry out waterproofing of the slab, coating method bituminous mastic on 2 layers, or we lay roofing material, the joints must be overlapped and hermetically glued blowtorch- this will protect the insulation from condensation.

We lay insulation on the floor, it can be mineral or basalt wool, expanded clay, polystyrene, polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene, etc. Pore insulation is laid on the insulation, then a reinforcing mesh with a cell of 600 * 600 mm or more, from reinforcement with a cross section of up to 6 mm.

Reinforcement is poured cement screed, after that you can start finishing the floor, the material is selected depending on the design of the attic.

Photo of floor insulation in the attic, the insulation layer should fit snugly against the logs

How to make floor insulation on a wooden floor

Before insulating the wooden floor in the attic, be sure to treat the old coating with a refractory compound and antiseptics. Further, for insulation, logs are stuffed from a bar of 100 * 100 mm, in increments of 500-600 mm. The logs are sheathed with a waterproofing membrane, and on top of it, a heater is laid very tightly between the beams, all gaps should be sealed with mounting foam. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier, always overlapping by 150 mm. Sheet material can be fixed on top: plywood, chipboard, OSB, on which it is laid fine finish, or lay a floorboard for painting.

How to insulate the ceiling in the attic

Hemming is extremely rare, since this is already a low room. But if such a need arose, in view of severe frosts, or this is required by features, then, first of all, it is necessary to stretch the vapor barrier membrane along the perimeter of the future ceiling. Next, install a crate of wooden bars or metal profiles, with a cell of 600 * 600 mm. Inside the crate we place a heater, mineral wool. The crate is sewn up with another layer of vapor barrier, then you can hem the ceiling with facing materials.

Crate for insulation of the attic ceiling

Advice: If the attic is planned to be insulated board materials, then they are mounted on top of the crate. The frame should be reinforced with stiffeners so that the crate does not sag from the weight of the insulation.

What insulation to choose for the attic

The question of how best to insulate the attic from the inside is very acute, and see, reviews on the forums vary dramatically, each material has its undeniable advantages, as well as disadvantages.

Styrofoam

Attic foam insulation is the most budget option to keep the heat in the room. To insulate the attic space, a layer of foam plastic with a thickness of at least 100 mm is required. It is an almost weightless material, easy to install, suitable for insulation and. But it burns, gets moldy, and besides, rodents use it to organize their moves throughout the house. Despite the fact that this method of insulation has passed the test of time, the question of whether it is worth it to insulate the attic with foam plastic, the reviews differ from “by no means” to “only foam plastic”, remains open. We invite you to watch the instructions, which describe in detail how to insulate the attic with foam plastic, the video clearly demonstrates all the advantages and disadvantages of working with this material

Extruded polystyrene foam

Insulation of the attic floor with extruded polystyrene foam, as a rule, is performed outside the building. Despite the fact that many consider this material to be foam, their chemical composition is very different. Expanded polystyrene tolerates chemical influences well, has a thermal conductivity lower than that of polystyrene, and practically does not allow moisture to pass through. Even if water has penetrated the surface of the insulation, the material will retain its properties during freezing and thawing. thermal insulation characteristics. Expanded polystyrenes have different densities, the higher this indicator, the heavier the insulation, the lower the density, the better the heat and sound insulation properties. But extruded polystyrene foam is destroyed upon contact with complex carbohydrates, it is also deformed by ultraviolet rays, therefore, it is not recommended to use nitro-based paints.

Watch the video on how to insulate the attic with your own hands with extruded polystyrene foam

Penofol

Insulation of the attic with penofol is financially costly, relative to polystyrene. This is a new roll insulation, which is a competitor for mineral wool. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, a good thermal insulator, and is resistant to moisture. The huge advantage of penofol is that it protects the room from the effects of radioactive substances, but does not tolerate mechanical loads well, and requires skills when laying the heat-insulating layer, a violation of the technology leads to a deterioration in the heat-insulating characteristics of the insulation.

Polyurethane foam spraying

Thermal insulation, made by spraying polyurethane foam, has no joints, and, therefore, cold bridges. Such insulation does not require the cost of preliminary preparation of the attic for thermal insulation, the material is poured to the thickness of the attic rafters and more. The insulation is sprayed directly on the walls, floor, ceiling with special equipment. PPU is resistant to fungi, and practically does not allow moisture to pass through, but it does not tolerate the effects of esters and concentrated acids.

Ecowool

Ecowool consists of 80% cellulose, and 20% of antiseptics and flame retardant additives. Applying given material to insulate the attic, you need to take into account the volume, since the insulation is greatly loosened. To perform high-quality attic insulation with ecowool, a layer about 200 mm thick should be applied. This is an eco-friendly insulation, lays on the surface like papier-mâché, manually or mechanically, does not form joints. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, is resistant to fungi and bacteria, and practically does not burn. The installation of a heat-insulating layer requires knowledge of the application technology and professional skills.

Warming with ecowool, this method of thermal protection requires skills and knowledge of the technology of applying material to the surface

Mineral wool

Using mineral wool for insulation is the most popular way to keep warm in the attic. Depending on the composition and density of the wool, it can be placed in a spacer or in special frame. Mineral wool does not rot, but absorbs moisture, because of this, its thermal insulation characteristics decrease, and the moisture-saturated insulation becomes noticeably heavier, which places significant loads on the rafters and the attic roof. When insulated with mineral wool, there is practically no waste left, it is easy to cut. To insulate the attic floor, a layer 100-200 mm thick is required, depending on the design features of the structure. When working with mineral wool, wear a protective suit and goggles.

Attic insulation, video instruction on how to properly lay a heat-insulating layer of mineral wool

Sawdust

I would like not to leave the old grandfather's and almost free way of warming. The device of a heat-insulating cake using sawdust. This is an environmentally friendly way of warming, time-tested. Sawdust is mixed with lime and an insulating layer 100 mm thick is laid. Such thermal insulation is several times inferior to modern heaters, in addition, it is a fire hazardous method of insulation. But if this is a country house, and according to the attic project, a cold unheated room, then this method of insulation is fully justified.

To insulate the attic, you can use both traditional materials and modern heaters, the main thing is to correctly calculate the thickness of the heat-insulating layer

Now the market is represented by a huge selection of insulation: rockwool stone wool, slab foam, backfill, plates, mats, etc. Which insulation is best for the attic depends on which room should be insulated: if it is a warm attic, then basalt wool, polyurethane foam, and if cold - foam and sawdust. The second criterion for choosing a heater is how much you are willing to spend on thermal insulation. It is believed that universal heaters cannot be in principle, each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. We have tried to find the best for you. helpful tips how to insulate the attic, video materials will help you understand the intricacies of the thermal insulation device with each specific material.

The subtleties of insulation and hydro-vapor barrier of the attic

How to properly install insulation?

Thinking about how to insulate the attic floor, we often lose sight of important things. For example, a large role in the effectiveness of insulation is played by how correctly the material was laid.

The material should be laid in two layers, where the second overlaps the seams and joints of the first.
The thickness of the rafter legs and the first layer of insulation should be the same. Otherwise, the plates of the second layer will get bends, which leads to a loss of joint density.
The width of the insulation should be equal to the distance between rafter legs. So the plates will lie flat, with full adjacency, the insulation of the attic floor from the inside will turn out to be complete.

The second layer of insulation does not stay in place, what should I do?

With the insulation of the attic with slab materials, there are usually no problems - they stand between the slats of the counter-batten by surprise. Roll types are soft, they sag and, as a result, fall out of their place. A logical question arises: how to properly insulate the attic with your own hands so that everything is securely fixed? The problem is solved with nails and a synthetic cord:

We fill small nails along the edges of the rails of the counter-batten.
The cord is tied to the topmost nail.
The material is inserted into place and secured with a cord, overlapping from one rail to another.

We work like this until we finish the insulation of the attic with our own hands.

How to insulate walls under roof slopes?

If internal walls living attic under a sloping roof are made vertical, in addition to choosing how to insulate the walls of the attic from the inside, there is another task: the placement of insulating material. You do not need to do this directly along the bevels of the roof. The insulation is placed on the shields that will serve as the walls of the future room. And so that the material does not fall into the space under the roof, on the reverse side, the shields are hemmed with scraps of boards. Wall insulation from the inside, the photo of which you see below, is performed in this way.

Is it possible to replace the steam protection of the floor with moisture protection?

Usually, the attic floor insulation cake in the country house consists of a layer of waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier. The idea of installing moisture protection instead of vapor protection seems logical - protecting the floor from spilled water. Not so simple. The heater works as long as it is dry. Thermal insulation performance decreases with increasing humidity levels.

If we fill the floor with a vapor barrier, the water will sooner or later evaporate, and the insulation will restore its properties. When moisture protection is on top, and water somehow gets inside the ceiling, there will be no way out for moisture. We get: the lack of floor insulation in the attic floor and the presence, over time, of mold under it.

How to properly install a vapor barrier?

Insulation of the attic floor from the inside is never complete without the installation of vapor barrier membranes. This process has its own nuances:

Foil membranes are installed with the shiny side into the room.
The positioning of ordinary fiberglass sheets is determined by touch - with the smooth side towards the insulation, the rough side - into the room.
Installation of any vapor barrier cloths is carried out in strips, in a horizontal direction, from bottom to top.

These rules apply to the insulation of the attic floor both along the bevels of the roof and along the gables.

How wide should the ventilation gap between the roof and the insulation pie be?

The width of the ventilation gap depends on the type of roofing material, and not on how you are going to insulate the attic from the inside:

Bituminous tiles, rolled materials, asbestos-cement sheets, galvanized steel - there must be at least 50 mm under them.
Any corrugated sheets such as metal tiles, profiled galvanized steel - from the roofing material to the attic insulation layer from the inside, we leave a gap of 25 mm.

How to avoid mistakes during attic insulation with polystyrene foam?

You can not use dowel-mushrooms during the insulation of the attic with foam. Reviews usually do not reflect this, but the multiple cold bridges resulting from the process increase heat loss.
When thinking about how to insulate the attic with foam, remember that for wooden surfaces this material is not suitable.
Should be avoided polyurethane foam to eliminate gaps between foam boards. It is better to choose a material that has a tongue-and-groove connection. If you need to put together the cut parts - just fit them with a knife.

Which is better, basalt wool or slag?

Many are at a loss as to which insulation is best for the attic. This is especially true of slag and basalt mineral wool - they are called in one word, they look similar. The latter is better already because it has a lower thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.12. For slag wool, this indicator is 0.48. Another advantage of basalt insulation is the absence of formaldehyde in the composition. Therefore, when deciding how best to insulate the attic from the inside, it is preferable to stop at basalt wool.

What to do if the thickness of the insulation turned out to be greater than the height of the crate?

If, while insulating the attic gable from the inside, you find that the insulation is too thick and protrudes above the crate, in no case should it be crushed. The heat-preserving properties of the material directly depend on its density: the smaller it is, the greater the effect of the insulation.

By crushing, for example, slag wool, we compact it, worsening its properties. How to insulate the pediment of the attic without redoing the crate? Just increase its thickness by stuffing the slats of the desired section on top. They do the same with the bevels of the roof, increasing the rafters in width.

Is it possible to do without insulation of the insulated attic floor?

Deciding how to insulate the attic for winter residence we often doubt whether it is necessary to take such care of the hydro- and vapor barrier of the floor. In theory, if the floor is well insulated and insulated along the walls and roof, this can be omitted. However, do not forget that warm air tends to rise up, and moisture also rises with it. That is, the floor of the last floor receives moisture from the whole house. Therefore, in the winter version of the attic, the insulation layers must be enclosed in water and vapor barrier membranes.

The size of suburban areas and the desire of their owners to use the fertile soil layer to the maximum convinces them to make decisions about expanding usable areas in a vertical rather than horizontal direction. It is easier and more profitable to equip an attic over a bathhouse than to attach to it extra room rest or build a separate house. True, acceptable this option it will only be if there is more than 50% of the useful under-roof space with a height of 2.5 m, and if the ceiling above the bath is designed so that you can safely walk along its upper plane. In the presence of the above prerequisites, the insulation of the attic will turn it into an excellent living compartment.

Let's start with the fact that the configuration of the roof is far from the shape of a classic cube. Insulation will have to be mounted on inclined surfaces. And since we are considering the insulation of the attic from the inside, it is impossible not to take into account the complexity of installing soft and flexible roll materials.
Recall that the vast majority of the area of the upper fence is a roof structure with a truss system. Its coating is made of extremely light materials with high waterproofing qualities, but also with considerable thermal conductivity. The wooden elements of the lathing of the truss structure are laid with gaps that do not form a thermal barrier.

We take into account that in the attic floor there is not only a roof surface, but also at least two gables and a valley. Leaving them without insulation or poorly insulating them means reducing all efforts to zero in general.
Let's not forget that the roofing material, which does not allow atmospheric moisture to pass through, at the same time prevents the release of fumes that are natural for a bath and not only for it.
We will ensure the safety of the use of residential premises by insulating the attic roof with materials with the environmental and hygienic characteristics required for housing arrangement.

Summing up the above criteria, we will draw up a kind of formula from the requirements that the thermal insulation system under construction must meet. According to the tasks set before the insulation, we will select the material and find out everything technological nuances. In order for thermal insulation to work effectively, it is necessary that:

the insulation layer completely covered the internal surfaces without “gaps” in a kind of carpet, so that there were no weak points in the heat-insulating system in the form of an unprotected ridge and gables not covered by an insulator;
the insulating material, resisting the attacks of the cold atmospheric front from the outside and the warm wet front from the inside, was protected from the condensate formed as a result of their confrontation;
moisture did not accumulate on the outer surface of the heat-insulating layer, which was not let through by the waterproofing roofing, so that excess moisture was removed through the ventilation ducts;
light roofing insulation was equipped with wind protection, which prevents heat from blowing out of the attic on windy days;
the material is suitable for technical, technological and sanitary-hygienic parameters.

The listed requirements are a detailed answer to the question "how to properly insulate the attic." If the thermal insulation system meets all conditions, then it will serve for a long time and work efficiently.

Choosing the right heater

From a technological point of view, slabs are best suited to create a thermal insulation system from the inside. Using a shape-holding material is easier, faster and more convenient to do-it-yourself attic insulation with the minimum amount additional fixing devices. For their correct installation nailed to the rafters longitudinal bars dimensioned to provide ventilation clearance. The outer plane of the bars must coincide with the outer plane of the elements truss system, the inner plane of the heat-insulating material must coincide with the inner plane of the rafters.

Note. If the power of the selected insulation is greater than the width of the rafter, each of the elements of the rafter system will have to be nailed or installed on the screws with an additional beam. Wooden additions must be treated with an antiseptic before installation.

In any case, both with sufficient and insufficient width of the rafters, the ventilation space between the insulation and the roofing material must be left.

The indicators of the heat engineering qualities of the material determine the climatic features of the region. The collection of building codes under the number 23-02-2003 will help to find them out. According to the indicator specified in the SNiP, it is necessary to select the material.

Styrofoam is a budget material and a convenient way to insulate. Lightweight slabs will be easy to install, the thermal insulation system will slightly increase the weight of the roof. However, the weak ability to conduct steam and attractiveness as a delicacy for mice make you think about whether it is worth it to insulate the attic with foam.
Minvata is also a convenient and democratic option. Cut to size a couple of cm more than the gap between the rafters, the plates are easy to install. Before installation, the insulation element must be slightly compressed and positioned in the required place. Having straightened out, elastic mineral wool will firmly “sit” in its nest. Glass wool can be used as an almost equivalent alternative.

Expanded polystyrene is usually laid on top of the truss system, forming a ventilation gap by installing a counter-batten between the insulation boards and the roofing. It is not suitable for insulating the roofing system from the inside, but can be used to insulate gables.
Polyurethane foam - easily applied to the surface of any complexity by spraying. A contractor with a portable installation that supplies foamed insulation under pressure is subject to planes with any slope. Attic insulation with polyurethane foam will create a monolithic layer without the slightest gaps. In addition, a vapor barrier layer will not be needed to protect the interior from the effects of condensate.
Ecowool is a heat insulator from the category of sprayed materials. It is similar in properties to wood, it contains an antiseptic that prevents damage to the insulation layer and the wood in contact with it. Just like the previous analogue, it creates a continuous cover that does not sag during many years of use. To insulate with ecowool, it will be necessary to mount a hemmed ceiling and install a crate for attaching a vapor barrier material to it.
Foil materials that work not only as a heater, but also as a mirror reflector of the heat that seeks to go outside. In order for the foil heat insulator to work perfectly, it is necessary to deploy it during installation with an aluminum layer inside the room and leave a distance of 5 cm between it and the vapor barrier layer.

The list is quite sufficient to have something to focus on, but mineral wool is recognized as the most popular material for insulation from the inside. Spraying with polyurethane foam is popular, but not available to everyone due to the lack of an apparatus, which, however, can be rented from a construction organization for a while. It remains only to figure out how to insulate the attic with your own hands and get an excellent result.

What should be the correct constructive pie?

An exaggerated thermal insulation system is the following constructive pie, if you start listing the layers from the side of the equipped space:

Plasterboard cladding.
Vapor control layer, preferably a variant of the membrane type. It is a continuous shell created from strips laid with a 10 cm overlap roll material. Cloths are fastened along horizontal and vertical joints with a special adhesive tape.
A crate that performs three functions. The slats attached across the rafters hold the insulation, serve as the basis for fixing the vapor barrier and form a ventilation space, which is especially necessary when using foil material.
Insulation, laid in one or more layers, depending on the thermal effect created. When insulating the attic from the side of the room, it is mounted between the rafters.
A waterproofing layer that protects the insulation from getting wet, which results in a decrease in thermal properties.

Note. Builders who thoroughly know how to insulate the attic are strongly advised to leave a ventilation gap between the heat-insulating material and waterproofing. According to technological standards, its absence is considered a gross mistake.

Another counter-lattice that creates a ventilated space between the waterproofing and the roofing material. Ventilation in this case is necessary to remove moisture accumulating on the waterproofing membrane. To remove moisture, holes are provided in the area of \u200b\u200bthe base of the slopes and in the region of the valley. The width of the ventilation gap is determined by the roofing material. If the roof is covered with tiles, slate, corrugated board or corrugated ondulin, it is enough to leave 25 mm, if with flat material without a profile relief, 50 mm should be left.
Windproof vapor barrier equipping the ventilation space. It is needed to preserve heat in the case of active ventilation in the ventilation gap. It is laid above the rafter legs, fastened with rails, on top of which the roofing is mounted.

By doing the attic insulation with your own hands, observing all the subtleties, the owner of a bathhouse with an attic will provide himself with a comfortable living space that eliminates the need to build on suburban area house. To equip a mansard roof for housing, you do not need to obtain permits and seek the consent of neighbors. But the benefit and economic effect is obvious.

For a private house, insulation would be a very reasonable solution. mansard roof. Firstly, you use the area more rationally - thanks to the insulation of the roof, the attic does not turn into a large refrigerator for the winter.

There you can arrange an office, workshop, children's playroom or whatever your heart desires. Secondly, you save fuel - through a cold attic, the house loses up to a quarter of all heat, and, of course, you need to heat more and more often. Therefore, the question of how to properly insulate a mansard roof occupies many homeowners.

If you decide to insulate the roof at the design stage, so much the better - then the insulation technology is determined already in the process of building a house, and thus you get “maneuvering space”. In this case, you will have the opportunity to think in advance what suits you more - insulation of the attic roof from the inside or outside - and choose exactly those methods and materials that are best suited for this.

If you are dealing with an already finished building, which it was decided to improve, the only option left is to insulate the mansard roof from the inside. And here the question naturally arises, how best to do this. Of course, a good professional, for whom the thermal insulation of the mansard roof is regular work, will do everything quickly and without problems.

But if you hire a specialist without recommendations, then there can be no complete confidence in the highest possible quality of the result. In addition, it is too expensive for many to use the services of hired workers. And finally, the last argument in favor of insulating the roof of the attic from the inside is just very nice to do something with your own hands.

Where to begin?

How to properly insulate the roof of the attic? First of all, not to be careless and not to succumb to illusions is a difficult, time-consuming and costly job. Therefore, it is better to spend more time preparing the project and drawing up a detailed estimate than to insulate the roof of the attic somehow, and then suffer in a cold or damp room and endlessly repair your house due to condensation that destroys wooden structures.

When preparing for insulation work, it should be borne in mind that the configuration broken roof in terms of arranging a residential attic, it provides great opportunities compared to a gable roof, since with such a roof contour, the usable volume of the room increases significantly.

How to choose a heater?

The first step should be the proper selection of materials. Choosing a roof insulation is not as easy a task as it might seem. The choice of thermal insulation on the market is huge, but you need to choose one for the attic that will provide a stable level of humidity in the room and the absence of sudden temperature fluctuations.

The best insulation should have the following qualities:

low thermal conductivity, i.e. high heat retention;
low hygroscopicity, that is, resistance to moisture absorption - a wet insulation significantly loses quality;
the absence of toxic components in the composition and environmental friendliness - after all, we are talking about a residential area;
Fire safety.

Wherein thermal insulation material for the roof must be vapor-permeable, that is, not prevent the free exit of water vapor from the room. If this requirement is neglected, the result will be the accumulation of condensate and a "bathhouse" atmosphere in the room. This in itself is not very pleasant, not to mention the dangers of dampness for attic walls and ceilings.

Another important condition- the material for insulating the roof of the attic should hold well on inclined surfaces and not deform over time. Finally, it must also meet the requirements of sound insulation - if this point is left unattended, then during heavy rain or, even more so, hail, the upper floor will be unusable.

Considering that metal tiles or metal corrugated board, which are now most often used as roofing, not only perfectly conduct sound, but even amplify it, you will not be able to sleep, talk or watch TV when something knocks on the roof.

To choose insulation for a mansard roof, you will have to study the many materials that the modern market offers. Almost all heaters have their advantages and disadvantages - for example, ordinary foam plastic, valued by many for its cheapness and ease of processing, is bad because it is not “transparent” enough for moisture rising from the room along with the air. In other words, it is better not to use it for rooms where you plan to stay for a long time, for example, for bedrooms.

Glass wool is traditionally used as a heater, but at the same time it quickly shrinks and loses its shape, and with it - thermal insulation qualities. The main disadvantage of polyurethane foam, which is becoming increasingly popular, is its inability to withstand fire, as well as its rather low vapor permeability. In addition, this material requires meticulous preliminary calculations- the fact is that when it hardens, its structure expands, because of which the whole structure can “crawl”. It is necessary to take into account the strength of the load-bearing elements with the utmost precision.

The better to insulate the attic roof, everyone decides for himself, based on his capabilities and the intended purpose of the room. From the point of view of many experts, basalt slabs can be called one of the best roofing thermal insulation - this material is durable and elastic, perfectly retains heat, does not lose its qualities during operation and is not prone to moisture accumulation. Another undoubted advantage is ease of installation. It is due to the fact that basalt slabs have the optimal width for fastening between the rafters and they do not have to be cut to the desired size.

Main Rule

Even if you have already decided which insulation is best for you, it is too early to start the work itself. First you need to deal with the sequence of these works, and for this you need to get an idea as a whole about the structure of the insulated roof. Or, as professionals say, a roofing "pie".

Going from top to bottom, the components of the "pie" are as follows:

the actual roofing (profiling, tiles, slate);
crate;
counterlattice;
waterproofing material;
thermal insulation;
vapor barrier;
ceiling finish.

That is, when installing thermal insulation, the main rule should be taken into account first of all - the insulation must be protected both from external (atmospheric) moisture and from internal moisture rising from the room. Otherwise, the accumulation of condensate is inevitable, which will eventually lead to the most disastrous consequences not only for the under-roof space, but for the whole house.

If you decide to insulate the finished attic roof from the inside, then, as can be seen from the list above, you already have all the layers of the “pie”, up to and including waterproofing. It remains to lay the insulation, cover it with a vapor barrier membrane - and you can finish the ceiling. It would seem that everything is simple. But here it is necessary to strictly follow established rules Otherwise, all your hard work will be in vain.

Work order

Even before you buy materials, you will need to calculate the attic roof area that you want to insulate. When calculating, the area of \u200b\u200bthe gables must also be taken into account - even the most carefully insulated roof will not have an effect if the cold comes from the ends.

Only when the measurements are completed and everything you need is purchased in the right amount, you can proceed to installation work. Carefully study the instructions for all materials - how to roll them out, how to fasten them, etc. To fix the insulating films and insulation, stock up in advance with the right amount of wooden slats or a construction stapler.

Waterproofing

If you start with waterproofing (let's say you haven't installed it yet), the most important point, which is worth paying attention to, is that between it and the roofing material there must be an air gap of at least three centimeters. More is possible, less is not.

This is necessary for proper ventilation of the under-roof space - if air flows do not pass freely between the waterproofing film and the inside of the coating, this will lead to condensation. And as a result, the insulation, when wet, will lose its beneficial features, the wooden parts of the structure will begin to rot, the metal ones will rust, and in the end, such negligence will shorten the life of your home.

For the same reasons, it is categorically not recommended to use polyethylene and other "non-breathing" materials as waterproofing. Nowadays, the building market offers a wide range of special waterproofing and vapor barrier membranes designed specifically for this purpose and providing an optimal balance between moisture permeability from the inside and impermeability from the outside.

thermal insulation

Next, the heater is installed. Attach it strictly according to the instructions. If you use basalt, keep in mind that it holds well between the rafters due to its elasticity, but over time, the elasticity of the material will decrease somewhat. Therefore, it does not seem appropriate to put it without fixation at all.

vapor barrier

A vapor barrier membrane is applied to the insulation, and only after that the ceiling covering is mounted.

Conclusion

How to insulate a mansard roof is generally clear. The main rules here, as in any construction work, are thoroughness, accuracy, accuracy. Follow the correct sequence during installation, follow the rules for working with materials, buy insulation and membranes only from trusted sellers and manufacturers. And then your warm attic will delight you for many more years.

Attics are most often equipped to provide additional living space. At the same time, it is not necessary to live in the attic - all work on the insulation of the upper room is carried out with the expectation of high-quality thermal insulation of the house in order to save energy. In addition, being in a warm attic is much more comfortable than in an uninsulated room.

Peculiarities

Residential attic- has long been not a rare occurrence in the construction of a private house on two floors. More and more attention is paid to the functional qualities of each centimeter of the attic area. Therefore, it is important to carry out repairs or design a house in such a way that, if necessary, it is possible to use separate rooms, make them functional and more habitable. In order to feel warm and cozy under the roof at any time of the year, insulation work is carried out taking into account the characteristics of the attic. For example, special insulation matters when the roof is already covered.

There are certain standards for carrying out such work from the inside in the attic under the finished roof. It is worth considering that the attic as such is not equivalent to the attic. The attic always has a characteristic slope, and the highest point of height is usually at a level of 2.5 m. For thermal insulation of such a room, you can use different materials. The most common are mineral wool and polystyrene. When carrying out work on the insulation of the attic, it is necessary to take into account what the room will look like, whether it will lose “extra” meters.

For high-quality insulation of the attic from the inside, if the roof is already covered, the right technology is important. So, when insulating walls and ceilings, one or another method of performing work is used. For example, to insulate the roof of the attic, a multilayer structure is used (for example, in 5 layers of a screed with foam glue).

All work on interior decoration attic for the purpose of insulation is carried out in five stages.

The roof is insulated, the truss system is processed. Wooden beam rafters can be seen under the roof of houses built using old construction technologies. Usually the roof of such houses is covered with tiles or slate. The materials have very high thermal conductivity. In such cases, it is said that the roof is simply protected from wind and external weather influences.

Waterproofing quality- another important criterion for ensuring the reliability of the roof structure as a whole. Waterproofing is simply necessary in the attic room. For this purpose, membrane films are usually used, which can pass steam, but do not pass moisture. In old houses, you can often see a simple roofing material with similar properties instead of a special film. The main feature of insulating materials is the optimal protection of the roof at the joints, preventing moisture from entering the heat-insulating material. Waterproofing coatings today are characterized by vapor conductivity.
Warming materials. Of the modern means, those that are characterized by low thermal conductivity are used. Insulation parameters between 0.03-0.04 Vi/mk are comparable in quality and durability to reinforced foam. Mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex, penoizol) are also actively used to insulate the attic from the inside. In terms of efficiency, penoplex is rated higher than others, but it costs more. The selected materials must meet the main requirements - to provide heat transfer in winter, to protect against overheating in summer.

Vapor barrier materials. Usually we are talking about a membrane film that will help maintain the original properties of the insulation. The material should not provoke the formation of condensate, which is a disaster for thermal insulation materials.
decorative properties. The insulated attic must meet the requirements of the design of the room, comply with the general concept of the design of the house. Therefore, the facing is given so much attention. As decorative finishes drywall, OSB boards or other types of materials are often used that can be laid on the ceiling, on the walls, and on the floor of the attic.

Roof structures

The reliability of the house is determined, among other things, by the roof structure. The roof can be gable, broken, differ in slope. Due to the design features of the attic, it is possible to obtain additional usable area. To do this, it is necessary to correctly manage the attic space of the house, especially for low-rise buildings. An important role in this case is given to the characteristics of the roof. Traditionally, pentagonal gable structures with a slope of various sizes were suitable for organizing an attic room. A convex fracture on such roofs was formed due to the difference in slopes.

Many schemes country houses correspond to the definitions of a "broken" roof. Today, the configuration of such mansard roofs has undergone many modifications. Now it's not only a pentagon and not only gable roof. But their main technological features are saved.

Externally, the shape of the attic structure can be assessed by several parameters.

By slope and roof configuration:

a triangular roof with a multi-level slope of the lower and upper parts in the form of a gable structure without kinks;
pentagonal variations on the theme of the roof with slopes at convex corners (two joined parts clearly appear in the design).

Mansard roofs have a multi-tiered truss system. In the lower tier there is a usable area 2-2.5 m high (the scheme is being prepared in advance). The height parameters are indicated for ease of movement inside. The second tier is the shape of the top of the roof, which can have an arbitrary height. Although here you can experiment with the height to get the optimally comfortable roof shape. In this aspect, it is more advantageous to use a pentagonal attic, in which the corners seem to pass along an imaginary circle. It is worth considering that the attic can be equipped not only with two pitched roof. Using basic technologies, it is possible to arrange and insulate the attic in shed or hipped roof structures.

So, the main feature of the mansard roof should be recognized as two adjacent truss structures that are connected into a triangle or pentagon, thereby creating the desired shape of the roof of the house.

The main technologies for the device of a pitched roof, known today.

Inclined. The lower tier of the attic is being built, then the upper part is being equipped.
Hanging. Depending on the technical features of the roof structure, the upper part is equipped. With a schematic section of the attic roof, you can see that at the bottom it looks like a trapezoid, and at the top it looks like a triangle.

If nothing needs to be done with the shape of the attic, then you can proceed directly to work on warming the room from the inside by choosing the appropriate quality material.

Types of heaters

When choosing the best insulating material for the attic, one should take into account the main characteristics of the material, its valuable properties, the pros and cons for a particular building.

As the main criteria for the selection of insulation, it is worth highlighting the following:

good thermal insulation (for example, foil material, insulation with mineral wool, polystyrene foam, basalt material);
economical use (rational insulation);

strength and durability;
water-repellent properties;
soundproofing;
ease of installation.

It is important to remember that the main value of the material will be its ability to retain heat, that is, the thermal conductivity of heat-insulating materials.

best qualities possesses the insulation, in which the coefficient of thermal conductivity will be lower. For example, less than 0.04 W/ms. This is taking into account the thickness of the material and climatic conditions. There is still the question of the possibility of using the same heat-insulating material for wall and floor cladding. The more universal qualities of the material will just allow you to work on any surface (walls, floors, ceiling). Typically, walls, gables and floors are “wrapped” with such material. This allows you to achieve insulation to the same extent around the entire perimeter of the room.

When choosing heaters, one should not forget about the sound-absorbing properties of the material. To understand this issue, it is worth imagining the noise on a steel roof even from a little rain, especially if we are talking about a residential attic. Tranquility and comfort are the most important criteria for home improvement. Also, when choosing a heater, it is necessary to check the supporting structure, what materials it is made of (metal, wood, reinforced concrete). Combustible materials (rafters) will not allow the use of some types of insulation. But, basically, safe and environmentally friendly facing materials are used today. Among them there are both traditional (glass wool) and more technologically advanced (eco wool, foil plate). Let's consider some of them.

Plates and mats

For internal insulation of the attic in the presence of a roof, fireproof and moisture-repellent materials such as mineral wool, glass wool, ecowool, penofol, polystyrene, sawdust slab cake, extruded polystyrene foam are used. Insulating material in the form of plates and mats is suitable for single or multi-pitched roofs. The crate is done in a similar way. Plates are convenient for transportation and installation.

Rolled

It is more convenient for many to use materials in rolls. You can easily cut a piece to the desired length. Roll insulation from traditional materials suitable for roofs in which the rafters are at a standard distance from each other. If necessary, the remaining free space can be filled with material.

sprayed

The so-called sprayed materials for lining the attic do not leave joints and areas for the penetration of cold. For example, you can use the method of spraying polyurethane foam. This insulation does not require pre-training attic. The material is simply poured onto certain thickness(usually the thickness of the rafters). These materials are distinguished by the fact that they are resistant to the development of fungus and mold. Spraying is convenient to carry out both on the walls and on the ceiling.

How to choose?

The quality and durability of the material depends on the manufacturer, operating conditions and the characteristics of the material. The insulation should be as resistant to mechanical stress as possible, so you should always choose the one that is better for specific indicators. The construction market today is replete with modern heaters of different brands, differing in weight, color, installation features.

A small mass of insulation allows you to use it between the rafters of the attic structure. With a stronger frame, it is possible to use heavier material (plates). They are mounted on a crate or on a truss structure. Depending on the frequent load on the roof (snow), you can decide on a soft or hard insulation. Too soft will have to be repaired. Too hard can lose in thermal insulation properties, for example, when thermally insulating a ceiling. And, of course, the insulating material for the attic should not crack, deform or change over time. It is not always possible to immediately decide on the choice of material for insulating the attic from the inside, even when it is not necessary to cover the roof.

All thermal insulation materials have their advantages and disadvantages. Having unique characteristics, such materials are evaluated on universal grounds.

Even a budget option for insulation (for example, polystyrene foam) should keep the heat in the house. Therefore, it is necessary to use a material with a thickness of at least 10 cm. Plates from the same foam are practically weightless, no special installation is required, they are suitable for any type of attic space. However, Styrofoam is flammable. Therefore, when choosing a heater, one should not always give preference to cheap analogues.
Extruded polystyrene foam can be used as insulation both inside and outside the premises. Do not confuse it with foam, the latter has a different structure. Expanded polystyrene does not react to chemical reagents, has a low thermal conductivity, does not absorb moisture. Slabs of material can have different densities, but can be highly deformed.

Penofol is used as more modern facility as a heater, but also as a more expensive one. Insulation in the form of a rolled material can easily replace mineral wool. It is not affected by moisture. It is believed that this material has properties that can protect against radioactive waves.
Spraying with liquid polyurethane foam will achieve the desired resistance to drafts. Or rather, they will not be, since joints and gaps on any surface can be closed with a heater. When using the material, there is no need for additional laying of heat-insulating material.

Ecowool for the attic is used relatively recently. This material consists of 80 percent cellulose. The rest is antiseptic additives. When using ecowool, shrinkage of the material during operation is taken into account. modern material resistant to fire, does not get wet, does not collect bacteria.
Almost everything is covered with mineral wool attic structures country houses. This material is very popular due to the qualities of heat and sound insulation. It can be laid on the crate or on the frame. Mineral wool is not subject to decay, but it must be remembered that the material is able to absorb moisture and thereby increase in size. And this gives additional weight to the structure.

Thickness calculation

A material with universal parameters - modern insulation, allows you to create the most comfortable conditions and the right microclimate in the upper part of the house, protecting it from heat loss. Installation of insulation depends on its technical characteristics. Consumption is determined by its thickness. Eat different variants installation, since almost everything is used in the construction business today - from mineral wool to polystyrene. It is possible to calculate the required thickness of the insulating material according to a certain scheme and based on the main parameters of SNiP. When calculating the thickness, the craftsmen are guided by regulatory requirements. The characteristics of both the heat insulator itself and the attic structure are taken into account.

Calculation rules.

When choosing a heater for an attic room, the operational density of the material is taken into account. The heat insulator is selected in such a way as to ensure the overall thermal conductivity of the wall materials.

The indicator of the load on the structure during the installation of the insulation must be taken into account. Thermal insulation materials differ in weight - it is larger with a higher density of the insulator. So, if the structure is stone or made of brick, this will allow the use of any material for cladding. For wooden frame suitable insulation lower density.
Dew point determination. According to this parameter, when calculating the choice of a heat insulator, the quality of the wall decoration both inside and outside is taken into account. The presence of dense plaster, for example, allows you to "save" on insulation. Incorrectly selected in thickness insulation will lead to the accumulation of condensate, which will adversely affect the performance of the entire structure.

P is an indicator of the thickness of the material;
K is the value of the thermal conductivity coefficient.

The arrangement of living space on the site of the attic has long ceased to be a rare occurrence. More and more home owners are interested in how to properly carry out repairs so that life “under the roof” is no less comfortable than in the house itself. Consider how to make attic insulation if the roof is already covered, what materials are best suited for this purpose and what nuances you should pay attention to.

The attic is not just a habitable attic. There are some norms that distinguish these two rooms from each other. First of all, the attic roof must necessarily have a slope. In addition, the height of the room established by the norm must be at least 2.5 m.

Focusing on attractive appearance, many decide to equip the attic. But in reality, you have to deal with some nuances, which it is advisable to familiarize yourself with before starting work:

the materials that were used to build the attic directly determine the further heat loss in this room. Therefore, their choice should be approached very responsibly;
Properly selected engineering solutions have no less influence, which allow providing all the necessary communications on the top floor;
the shape of the roof plays a significant role. It can be single-sided, double-sided or broken;
in order to hide the load-bearing elements of the roof, you will have to show imagination;
the attic can be located not only on the territory of the house, but also go beyond it, relying on columns.

Each of these aspects has its own impact on the approach that will be required for high-quality roof insulation. But the main role still belongs to the two main materials - heat and water insulator. On the one hand, the space under the roof is in the coldest zone of the building. On the other hand, a strong difference between the temperature inside and outside often causes condensation, which has a destructive effect on materials.

The best materials for do-it-yourself attic insulation

For internal attic insulation, there are many suitable options. But your choice must be made based on the characteristics of the region of residence, as well as the design features of the particular roof with which to work. Consider what options exist today and what features are characteristic of them.

Attic insulation with foam plastic: the pros and cons of the material

Polyfoam is one of the most famous heaters, which occupies its niche among inexpensive thermal insulation materials. Its price is indeed significantly lower than that of many others, but this is far from its only advantage:

Styrofoam does not absorb moisture at all. If the material is pre-treated with an impregnation specially designed for this, then the water will simply drain down the surface;
light weight is another advantage that greatly facilitates transportation and installation, and also reduces the load on the roof;
the thermal conductivity of the foam is very low, so that it copes with its direct functions more than fully;
Styrofoam is easy to cut and fasten. This allows you to work with it without any problems, even in the absence of any experience.

Interesting! In terms of cost, this method can only be compared with the insulation of the ceiling with expanded clay, although now this method is used less and less.

Based on these characteristics, we can conclude that polystyrene foam is practically a win-win option when it comes to insulating the attic from the inside. But the insulation of walls with foam plastic from the inside also has disadvantages, and sometimes they turn out to be much more significant than the advantages:

the vapor permeability of the foam is at a very low level. As a result, the room is often stuffy and hot. It also leads to an increase in humidity, which causes the development of fungi and mold on the wooden elements of the roof;
despite its artificial origin, this material is often damaged by rodents;
over time, wood tends to shrink, which leads to the formation of gaps between the foam elements. It is impossible to fix this, and the only way to solve the problem is to completely replace the heat-insulating material.

Many believe that the listed disadvantages are greater than the advantages and insulation of the attic with foam plastic is not justified. But it must be admitted that this is one of the most budget options, which delivers a minimum of hassle, and subject to the installation technology, it may well become an alternative to more expensive solutions.

Attic insulation with polystyrene foam: advantages, disadvantages and features

Extruded polystyrene foam is very similar to Styrofoam. Their technical characteristics are almost identical, with the exception of one significant aspect - installation technology. If the foam needs to be laid between the rafters, then the expanded polystyrene is placed on top, which eliminates the risk of cracks and gaps.

Helpful advice! Some manufacturers offer buyers plates with stepped joints, which makes the joints even more durable and reliable. Such fixation of the elements among themselves is an ideal option for insulating the roof of the attic.

Among other advantages of roof insulation with polystyrene foam, one cannot fail to note its low weight, which is perfectly combined with high strength and resistance to external influences. In addition, the operational life of this material is quite long, subject to the entire attic insulation technology with foam.

Expanded polystyrene is not prone to rotting or decomposition processes, which is also important in the case of roof work. It can be topped with any topcoat that will give an attractive appearance and provide additional protection.

Working with expanded polystyrene on your own is simple: a variety of adhesive mixtures and mastics are suitable for fixing it. And in some cases, even a construction stapler is used. So for installation there is no need to purchase any expensive additional elements.

But behind all these positive characteristics, one should not forget about the only, but rather serious, drawback of polystyrene foam insulation from the inside of walls and roofs - the material has an increased level of combustibility. For owners, this means the need for a more careful and thoughtful summing up of all communications, in particular, electricity.

Of course, manufacturers are trying to minimize this drawback, but today we can say with confidence that this issue remains open, and every owner who has made a choice in favor of insulating the walls from the inside with foam plastic is obliged to take care of his safety.

Interesting! It is no coincidence that this material is most often chosen for warming the balcony. Expanded polystyrene has a very low thermal conductivity, and at the same time on the balcony it practically does not have to come into contact with electricity.

Insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool: a worthy alternative to penoplex

Mineral wool is another thermal insulation material that is used everywhere and is widely known for its characteristics. It got its name because of the fibrous structure, similar to medical cotton wool. You can buy it in rolls, which makes transportation and installation even more convenient.

Low thermal conductivity is perfectly combined with the ability not to absorb moisture. Although, if this happens, the material dries quickly without losing its appearance and technical characteristics.

Mineral wool belongs to the category of environmentally friendly and safe materials, which becomes noticeable even if the upper part of the roof is covered with metal tiles, which are prone to strong heating under the influence of sunlight. In addition, mineral wool also serves as a sound-absorbing barrier, and unlike polystyrene, it is completely of no interest to rodents and various insects.

Roof insulation from the inside with mineral wool should be done taking into account the fact that this is a rather elastic material, even despite its soft fibrous structure. It is quite capable of being held between the rafters, subject to high-quality fixation.

Helpful advice! In the process of cutting mineral wool for laying sheets between the rafters, it is necessary to leave a margin of about 2 cm. This will allow them to be held and not fall out even if there is no additional elements mounts.

Insulation of the roof from the inside with glass wool: is it worth using this material

According to its characteristics, glass wool is similar to mineral wool, but in this case, the fibers that make up the material are longer, which generally increases the elasticity of the material. Slightly higher and strength indicators and soundproofing ability. But when in contact with moisture, glass wool is inferior to mineral wool, absorbing more water.

The use of glass wool for insulation of residential premises does not lead to any negative consequences for the health of residents. No toxic substances are used in the production process. In addition, glass wool is characterized by a low flammability index.

In the process of working with the material, safety regulations are required to avoid getting glass wool fibers into the air. Its small particles can cause irritation of the mucous membranes, and therefore the use of a respirator and goggles is a prerequisite.

Helpful advice! Sometimes glass wool fibers can irritate the skin, so it is recommended to wear closed clothing and even gloves when working with it.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic roof from the inside using stone wool

Stone wool is the most expensive option among such materials. But at the same time, it is the safest for human health and significantly exceeds all other options in terms of reliability. Here are some of its main advantages:

the thermal conductivity coefficient of this material is one of the lowest;
stone wool remains completely environmentally friendly even when heated;
the layer of this heat insulator is also an excellent noise-absorbing barrier;
the level of vapor permeability is very high;

the material practically does not burn;
no mechanical loads can deform stone wool or affect its characteristics;
material is different long term operation;
stone wool can be purchased in the form of slabs, which are easily cut into segments of the required length and attached to the ceiling surface.

Due to the high cost of stone wool, they often try to replace it with mineral wool or glass wool. But such a replacement cannot be called complete, since this affects the quality of insulation quite seriously. Many users claim that the price of the material is quite justified, and subject to the installation technology, it very quickly pays for the provoked costs.

Related article:

Types of insulation for roofs and ceilings. Mineral and synthetic roof insulation. Mansard roof insulation.

In addition, it is quite possible to do all the work on insulating the roof of the attic from the inside with your own hands. A video instruction can demonstrate the procedure for carrying out the work, and the recommendations of specialists will help you avoid common mistakes.

Insulation of the attic with ecowool is one of the most effective ways to combat the cold.

Ecowool is a pre-shredded material that is first blown into the cracks, and then, using the same method, a layer is placed between the ceiling and the rafters, using a device specially designed for this. This is an expensive procedure, but it allows you to completely eliminate all the risks of drafts and ensure the most effective insulation.

Ecowool consists of 80% completely natural material- paper, the properties of which are very similar to those characteristic of wood. With its natural origin, ecowool reduces the level of heat loss no less effectively than other materials.

One of the components that is part of ecowool is borax. According to its characteristics, it is an antiseptic of natural origin, which makes it possible to provide wooden roof elements effective protection from the formation of fungus and mold.

Ecowool is applied in a thin layer, but at the same time it provides a decent level of not only heat, but also sound insulation. The material retains its characteristics even after decades of use. So not too low cost is the only drawback of this material, which is fully justified by its excellent properties.

Attic insulation with polyurethane foam: technology basics and material features

Foamed polyurethane foam is the most modern among all the listed ways to insulate the attic. Its main difference is the complete absence of joints or gaps that can become a source of cold air. In addition, the operational period of this material is one of the longest, and is up to 30 years.

Foamed polyurethane foam is not subject to shrinkage, even if the wooden roof of the house begins to deform a little over time. Its solid structure completely eliminates the risk of moisture absorption, which eliminates the need to install an additional vapor barrier layer.

But there are also aspects that significantly complicate the process of using polyurethane foam as a roof insulation from the inside. First of all, this concerns the application procedure, which requires complex and expensive equipment. Its purchase is almost never justified, so it is usually rented.

Another aspect is the complex application technology, which provides for a certain experience in this area and does not allow beginners to cope with the task on their own with high quality.

Helpful advice! Perfect option- invite a team of workers who will come with their own equipment and in just a few hours will make high-quality insulation of the attic of your house.

Insulation of the attic from the inside with your own hands using penofol

Penofol is a kind of foamed polyethylene - a technology that occupies its niche among the methods of modern insulation of walls and houses. Along with high rates of sound insulation, it is worth noting the fact that penofol has quality coating made of aluminum, which can be applied on one or two sides.

Here are a few more arguments in favor of using penofol for attic insulation:

the material does not pose any threat to human health or the environment;
its thermal conductivity is extremely low;
the closed system of air bubbles characteristic of this material serves as an excellent barrier to steam penetration.

This method is also not cheap and requires significant financial investments for implementation. But, as practice shows, it is better to spend money on quality material once and thereby ensure comfortable living conditions for many years to come.

It is not uncommon for a combination of materials. Materials that match in characteristics can be used for insulation together. For example, mineral wool and polystyrene foam are perfectly combined with each other. The first is laid between the rafters, and the second is placed closer to the edge of the roof. This combination will achieve the desired effect and significantly save on the purchase of materials.

Can provide reliable thermal insulation in combination with other materials

As you can see from the descriptions, each insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages. The only question is to choose the most suitable option, which will satisfy the idea of \u200b\u200bmatching the price and quality of the material.

One of the most common mistakes that owners make is a rash choice in favor of the cheapest option for attic insulation. Videos and articles can demonstrate the positive aspects of a particular solution, but you need to choose taking into account all the nuances and characteristics. Attempts to save on heat-insulating material can lead to the fact that after some time of operation, it will be necessary to carry out repair work or even completely replace the entire material.

Warming the attic from the inside with your own hands: video and stages of work

Each of the materials has its own fastening characteristics and should only be used in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. But if we talk about the general procedure for carrying out work, then there are mandatory steps that are carried out almost always, regardless of the material chosen.

The first layer of waterproofing material is laid out, which should protect the insulation from the damaging effects of moisture. The film is overlapped in such a way that one layer is 10-15 cm on top of the other. The material is fastened with construction stapler, and the joints are additionally glued with adhesive tape.

Then, if necessary, a crate is created. For it, you can use wooden slats, the width of which is 8-10 cm. You need to attach them to the rafters, placing them parallel to each other at a distance of 50-60 cm. It is very important to check each element individually using building level. This will prevent any roof defects from occurring in the future.

A heat insulator is laid on the rafters or crate and fastened in a suitable way for it. For example, if we are talking about using any type of cotton wool sold in the form of rolls, then the material is cut into pieces right size to lay them between the rafters. In this case, the thickness of the insulation must be such as to correspond to the width of the log. It is especially important if you decide to insulate the walls from the inside with mineral wool plus drywall. In this case, all free space must be filled with insulation.

The top layer of this "pie" is a layer of vapor barrier material, which can be used as a polyethylene film, glassine or roofing felt. As in the case of waterproofing, the selected material is overlapped. True, in this case, it is better to fasten with the help of thin wooden slats, placing them in 40-50 cm increments. All joints must be glued with adhesive tape.

Helpful advice! If you need to lay several layers of thermal insulation material, you need to lay a vapor barrier film between each of them. This is especially true for cold regions.

As a final step, it remains only to take care of a suitable top coat, which can be attached to the crate or, in its absence, directly to the bars. Consideration should be given to the weight of the decorative panels, since the installation of the heaviest of them may require pre-installation metal profile frame.

The main mistakes made in the process of attic insulation

The end result of the work that is done by one's own hands directly depends on how accurately the technology and all the prescribed rules are observed. Particular attention should be paid to the procedure for laying the waterproofing layer, since materials that are able to absorb moisture later dry out, which often causes cold in the room.

if the slope of the roof does not exceed 13°, this will cause precipitation to be retained on the surface. The result is rust and leaks. All this can adversely affect the condition of the insulation, so it is important to make sure that the angle of inclination is large enough before starting work;
installation of thermal insulation material on the walls and roof - that's not all necessary work. It is necessary to take care of the insulation of windows (according to Swedish technology). To do this, it is best to invite specialists to surely avoid leakage. Especially if you want to install windows at an angle;

in order to provide ventilation to the heat-insulating material and the ability to dry out if it gets wet, it is advisable to leave a gap of about 2-3 cm between the material and the roof;
it is absolutely impossible to skip at least one of the necessary layers of vapor or waterproofing materials;
if the heat-insulating material exceeds the rafters in thickness, then their height can be increased by filling additional slats on their own.

These simple recommendations can help in the process of work, significantly improving the quality of insulation. However, if for any reason there are doubts about the strength and experience, it would be better to invite a specialist. Of course, you will have to pay for this, but in this case you will not have to redo everything twice.

Warming the gable of the attic from the inside is far from the most difficult task that the owner of the house may face. Often, on the top floor, the owners want to place a balcony, the insulation technology of which also has its own characteristics.

As well as for walls, a wide variety of materials can be used to insulate the ceiling on the balcony, although it is worth noting that the technology of insulating loggias, which has not been mentioned before, is often used here. The step-by-step instruction “Warming the balcony from the inside with your own hands” will help you understand in detail the features of this process.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool: video instruction

As good example it is recommended to watch a training video, which details the technology of wall insulation from the inside with mineral wool. This will allow you to familiarize yourself with all the nuances in detail and avoid the previously mentioned common mistakes.

How to insulate the attic from the inside if the roof is already covered? Insulation of the roof of the attic from the inside Insulation of the wooden attic from the inside