It is believed that if the temperature inside the garage does not drop below +3C, then the car engine can be started, as they say, “half a turn”. Therefore, owners today pay attention to the insulation of metal garages Special attention. Moreover, there are thermal insulation materials on the market today, with the help of which the insulation process is carried out simply and quickly, plus the costs for this event are not very large. Therefore, in the article we will consider all the methods of insulating garages built from a metal profile sheathed with sheet iron or corrugated board.
Which side to insulate the garage from?
It is clear that there are two sides to the walls: external and internal. It is optimal to insulate the building from the outside in order not to reduce the internal space of the garage. This option can only be used if the garage is a separate building. That is, you can approach it from any side and carry out thermal insulation processes.
External insulation is a fairly large list of materials and technologies. That is, there are no restrictions in this regard. But each method requires a special approach, especially in terms of attaching insulation. Therefore, one of the easiest ways to insulate a garage is to line it with bricks. Of course, half a brick is not the most reliable protection, but the temperature inside the building will be clearly higher than outside.
The second method, which uses brick, is to pre-insulate the walls of the garage structure, and then line the insulated surfaces with brickwork. But here you can use any heat-insulating materials with low moisture absorption. For example, polystyrene foam boards. They are simply glued to the metal walls of the garage structure using a special adhesive composition, which is sold in cans. And then they put brick cladding on top.
This option for thermal insulation of metal walls requires additional costs for the construction of a small base for brickwork. Usually this is a small foundation slightly wider than the width of the brick. It can be superficial or shallow.
In principle, you can insulate a metal garage in exactly the same way, using other finishing materials. For example, siding. True, you will have to build a frame under it, which must somehow be attached to the metal sheets of the garage structure. The simplest option is to use self-tapping screws, for which you will need to make through holes with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the fasteners. Note that assembling the frame is a rather labor-intensive operation that will take a lot of time.
You can fasten the sheathing using wire, for which you need to drill two holes on each side of the frame element. The two ends of the wire are inserted into the holes from inside the garage, and a twist is made on the sheathing, thus pressing the wooden block against metal surface.
It is between the elements of the sheathing that the thermal insulation material. And siding is mounted on the frame itself. The photo below just shows a garage, insulated and covered with siding.
Today, so-called thermal panels are very popular. This is insulation onto which finishing is glued. slab material. A striking representative of this category are polystyrene foam panels on which clinker tiles are glued. This is a universal finishing material in terms of its installation. That is, it can be installed on the lathing, glued to the walls or secured with self-tapping screws.
In general, using technology frame insulation garages outside, the possibilities are endless. Because any slab, sheet or slatted material can be installed on the sheathing. That is, the insulation can be covered from the outside with a large number of materials, and not necessarily finishing ones. For example, you can use corrugated board, lining, OSB boards with subsequent painting, moisture-resistant plasterboard with decorative plaster and other expensive and not very expensive facing materials.
I would like to add that scientific and technological progress constantly offers us the opportunity to take advantage of new products. And thermal insulation materials in this case are no exception. Recently, so-called thermal insulation paints, which experts classified as “liquid heat insulators”. We will not go into details of their production, components and technical characteristics. Just note that 1 mm thick paint applied to metal replaces mineral wool board 50 mm thick.
Apply paint with any painting tool, preferably in two layers. Consumption is 1 liter of material per 1 m² of treated surface.
Thermal insulation of a metal garage from the inside
Let's move on to insulation iron garage from the inside. This type of thermal insulation is used most often. It is simpler and cheaper to carry out the work. For this purpose, mainly two technologies are used, which use two different thermal insulation materials: polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam.
On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects and other small forms - of any category and construction technology - from construction companies represented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
Insulating the garage from the inside with polystyrene foam boards
What is a metal garage? This is a frame structure made of a profile pipe or steel angle, which is sheathed on the outside with metal sheets or corrugated sheets. Typically, a garage structure is welded, rarely dismountable with bolted joints. In both cases, this does not interfere with thermal insulation measures.
The main task of the work producers is to accurately trim the polystyrene foam boards to the size of the areas formed by the frame structure. Usually the latter is vertical racks With a certain step installations, in some cases they are connected by transverse elements (one or two). The bottom and top of the rack are connected by the top and bottom trim. That is, it turns out that the walls metal garage- these are rectangles bounded by frame elements.
It is precisely to the size of the rectangles that pieces need to be cut from the foamed polystyrene slabs. It is important to cut it so that the slabs fit tightly between the sheathing elements. In this case, the thickness of the insulation is selected according to the thickness of the frame element. For example, if the garage was assembled from a 40x40 mm profile pipe, then the insulation should be of that thickness. And this is just one of standard parameters polystyrene foam boards.
Attach slab insulation to metal walls with special foam adhesive composition. It is important here to choose the right type of glue, because there is a wide variety of them on the market. But not all of them can attach materials to metal.
It is usually difficult to cover a wall insulated in this way with slab or sheet material. Under the latter, a sheathing is required either from wooden blocks or from metal profiles with a thin wall. If you used to build a metal garage profile pipe with a wall of 2 mm, then you can attach, for example, OSB boards or plywood to it using metal screws. Roofing screws with a hexagonal head are most often used.
And in this usual form, that is, when the insulation boards are simply laid between the elements of the garage frame, they use finishing in the form of plaster followed by painting. Before applying the plaster mortar, a plaster mesh is installed on the insulated wall: metal or synthetic.
Video description
We invite you to watch a video that shows the technology of thermal insulation of a metal garage with polystyrene foam boards:
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
Additional wooden frame
This option for insulation and finishing is used if the frame of a garage building is assembled from a steel corner. To do this, install on both sides of the corner elements wooden blocks cross section equal to the side of the corner profile. Usually this is 40 mm, which means you will need 40x40 mm bars.
Attach them to frame structure in different ways, for example:
tie two bars of wire to the corner on both sides at once;
attach each block to the garage wall, that is, to a metal sheet, making holes in it and securing it with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from the outside.
That is, another frame should appear on the inner wall, only wooden. It is the dimensions of the newly formed rectangles that are used as the basis for trimming the polystyrene foam boards. After which they are also inserted into the spaces between the frame elements and secured with adhesive. Sometimes glue is not used if the trimmed pieces of insulation fit tightly into the wooden structure of the sheathing. They won't fall out, especially since they will be covered with casing.
Now any finishing lath, slab, or sheet material can be installed on a wooden sheathing using standard technology.
Roof insulation with polystyrene foam
A warm metal garage is not only about thermal insulation of walls. It is imperative to insulate the roof. The roof of a metal garage has either one or gable structure. From the inside, the slopes are the same frame walls, sheathed on the outside with metal sheets or corrugated sheets. Therefore, the technology for thermal insulation of the roof is carried out in exactly the same way as for walls. That is, between the frame elements, thermal insulation material is laid, cut exactly to the dimensions of the space between the sheathing elements.
The only difficulty is the inclined plane of the roof. The insulation will not adhere well to it, so you can’t do without glue.
There is another option for insulation, when it is not the roof slopes that are thermally insulated, but the ceiling of the room. The latter is formed from boards, which are laid at the ends on the walls of the structure. Or, as another option, installation of logs, along the lower ends of which board or sheet materials are installed and fastened with self-tapping screws: OSB, chipboard, plywood and others. The insulation can be laid on top of the ceiling or along its lower surface by gluing the slabs to it.
Insulating a garage with polyurethane foam
Foamed polyurethane is an insulation material with the best thermal conductivity. Applied with a thickness of 1 cm, it replaces any other heat-insulating material laid with a thickness of 50-100 mm. In addition, this heat insulator is applied in a monolithic layer without seams.
It is a foamed mass consisting of two components, which polymerizes in air and turns into a fairly durable coating. Application of polyurethane foam requires special equipment. The material itself is expensive compared to other analogues. But there is no need to build a frame for it. In addition, the foam insulation is easily attached to a metal surface, which does not even need to be cleaned.
Video description
So that you understand what we are talking about, we suggest watching a video that shows the process of thermal insulation of a metal garage with polyurethane foam:
Let us add that in this way you can insulate the roof of a garage structure and the gates of a building. Plaster fits well on the polyurethane foam layer; if you first install a wooden sheathing, then finishing with slab or sheet materials will also not be a problem.
Conclusion on the topic
So, we talked about ways to insulate garages assembled from metal profiles. It should be noted that many owners follow the path of saving Money. And it should be noted that this path can lead to a high quality of the final result. The main thing here is to carry out all the processes correctly with the exact choice of insulation. Particular attention is paid to the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. If you choose it correctly, then you can talk about guaranteed high quality of the work done.
Any motorist knows that insulating a garage is not a whim, but a real necessity. If you value your iron horse, then you definitely cannot do without such a procedure. But the way our world works is that there is not always enough money for expensive insulation, not to mention hiring professionals. This article was written for those ordinary motorists who, for a number of reasons, are forced to install inexpensive garage insulation from the inside with their own hands, and in it I will talk about 3 available options insulation and about the materials that are suitable for this.
Owners choose insulation from the inside according to various reasons. For example, in a garage cooperative, people simply have no other choice, the boxes are built as a united front, and on the sides there are not always good neighbors with warm garages.
It is practically impossible to install metal structures outside at all. And finally, the most banal reason, internal insulation is simply cheaper. In addition, it is simply physically impossible to insulate the roof and floor from the outside.
What materials will you have to choose from?
Naturally, before you pick up the tool and get to work, you still need to decide how to insulate the house for your car. After all, each material has its own installation subtleties, and most importantly, the cost of all these materials is different.
It’s no secret that each person has their own concept of inexpensive; for one, a hundred thousand is not money, but for another, ten thousand is happiness. Therefore, I will briefly go through the entire assortment, and you can decide.
| A short list of thermal insulation materials used for insulating garages | |
| Thermal insulation material | General characteristics |
| Dense mineral wool slabs | Relatively inexpensive material, which has enviable thermal conductivity parameters and excellent vapor permeability. Cotton slabs are suitable for garages due to their absolute fire safety. Although cotton slabs are capable of absorbing moisture, this indicator is not so high. |
| Glass wool and other types of soft mineral-based mats | In terms of cost, soft mats are one of the most available insulation materials. But that's where all its advantages end. Although on the Internet you will find a lot of photos and videos of material where the advantages of such mats are described in vivid colors. Let me tell you briefly, such insulation cannot be installed in a garage. These mats quickly gain moisture and are no longer restored; after 2-3 years they will look like an old flannelette blanket, so think about whether you need such savings. |
| Styrofoam | I am deeply convinced that among inexpensive insulation materials, foam boards are the best option, especially for the garage. Its price is more than affordable, it does not allow water to pass through or absorb. Relying on personal experience, I can assure you that installing polystyrene foam with your own hands is the easiest way. Plus, this material is suitable for both block and metal structures. |
| Extruded polystyrene foam or Penoplex | Extruded polystyrene foam is made from the same raw material as polystyrene foam. But these slabs are much stronger, more stable and durable. In almost all characteristics, extruded polystyrene foam and Penoplex, as one of the representatives of this line, are many times ahead of the old foam plastic. The only bad thing is that such material will cost at least 2 times more than polystyrene foam. |
| Soft roll insulation with foil coating | As a rule, the basis here is foamed polyethylene, better known as penofol. The foil can be applied to one or both sides of such a “blanket”. On average, the thickness of the canvas ranges from 3 – 4 to 20 mm. The material is good, but I’ll tell you honestly, as an independent insulation material, it is not very suitable in our climate, only as an addition. |
| Warm plaster | Varieties warm plaster several, but the principle of arrangement is the same everywhere. Some loose porous material, for example, expanded clay sand, perlite or foam balls, is mixed in the solution as the main filler and the walls are plastered with this solution. Such insulation is not expensive, but you cannot do it without the skills of a plasterer, so not everyone is able to do it with their own hands. |
| Expanded clay | Expanded clay is porous clay balls obtained by firing special types of clay. The price of such insulation is small, but in a garage it can only be used to insulate the floor. |
| Sawdust | This insulating material can be safely called practically free. There are two options for using sawdust for garage work. These are cement boards based on sawdust and the so-called sawdust concrete. I will go into more detail about production technology and installation later. |
| Penoizol | If you understand chemical composition, then penoizol is actually liquid foam. Since the material is liquid, it is easier to work with, but such insulation will cost several times more than installing foam plastic. |
| Polyurethane foam | I specifically left the polyurethane foam for “dessert”. The fact is that in our case it is less suitable than others. Not only this liquid insulation itself is expensive, so you still have to hire specialists for application. It is impossible to manage here on your own; you need expensive special equipment. |
If we analyze all the above options for price/quality/ease of arrangement, then foam plastic is in the lead, followed by mineral wool slabs and materials made from sawdust close this honorable top three.
As if out of competition, we have expanded clay; among inexpensive insulation materials, it is best suited for arranging floors.
We have decided on the top three, and since polystyrene foam turned out to be almost a universal insulation material, then I will start the story about how to insulate a garage with your own hands using the example of polystyrene foam.
Option No. 1: polystyrene foam as a universal material for garage insulation
Insulating a garage from the inside with your own hands can be roughly divided into 4 stages. You will need to insulate the floor, walls, roof and garage doors, and the order of actions does not really matter.
Insulating garage walls with foam plastic
Since the walls of the garage have the largest square footage, this means that more attention needs to be paid to them.
There is a small nuance here, the arrangement of block and metal structures is different, and in order to avoid confusion in my head, I will talk about each technique separately and we will start with metal garages.
Foam boards are classified by density. Not only strength, but also price directly depends on it. So, the cheapest foam plastic has a density of 15 kg/m³, but it is not suitable for insulation. Remember, you need PSB-S25, it has a density of 25 kg/m³. You can take it denser, but it will cost more.
- When insulating the walls of garages welded from sheet metal, the easiest way is to install foam boards with glue. You can use 2 options as glue; polystyrene foam adheres equally well to “Liquid Nails” and to polyurethane foam;
- Personally, I prefer to work with polyurethane foam. Firstly, it is applied faster, and secondly, you should buy foam in any case, since it will blow in the gaps. And in order not to spend money on both glue and foam, I glue the foam with polyurethane foam;
- Smooth before pasting sheet metal need to be prepared. To do this, the iron is first cleaned. Ideally, you need to strip it down to bare, shiny metal, but if the old one is holding up well, then you shouldn’t be too zealous. You can clean the metal with coarse sandpaper, a hand-held metal brush, or using a cord brush attachment on an electric drill or grinder. It’s easier for me to work with a nozzle, it’s inexpensive and takes no more than half an hour on each wall;
- Once the walls are cleaned, you will need to dust them off and degrease the metal. You can degrease with any alcohol-containing liquid, as well as kerosene or acetone;
- By the way, if you are dealing with a garage assembled from corrugated sheets, then you don’t need to clean anything there. The corrugated sheet can be immediately degreased and covered with foam plastic;
- Next, apply an arbitrary pattern of glue or foam to one side of the foam and glue the slab to the wall. You can start from any corner you like, I usually start to the left of the gate and go clockwise;
- The plates are glued as brickwork, with a shift between rows. Pasting process liquid nails or polyurethane foam has its own nuances. So you need to spread liquid nails onto the sheet, then apply the foam to the metal, immediately tear it off and set it aside for about 5 - 7 minutes. Only after this can the sheet be glued and it will stick well, otherwise it will “float”;
- Polyurethane foam has a different technique. As you know, foam begins to expand after application to any surface. Therefore, when you glue foam plastic onto it, the sheet itself will need to be pressed against the wall every 10 - 15 minutes; the expansion process lasts about an hour;
- When the walls are pasted over, the gaps between the sheets or any other cracks are filled with polyurethane foam, and after it dries, the excess is cut off;
- In principle, this could have been the end. But I recommend additionally covering the walls with foil foam or some other similar blanket;
- The fact is that in our garages there is an acute issue of shortage of usable space. And where foam plastic 100 mm thick is required, you can stick 50 mm slabs and cover them with foil foam. Accordingly, where the project calls for installing 50 mm foam, you can get by with thirty millimeters. Plus, walls covered with soft foil look much more elegant than bare foam sheets with polyurethane foam peeking out of the cracks.
The walls of block garages can also be covered with foam plastic, but this technology is more used for insulating the outside, since the insulation is additionally plastered. And from the inside in block structures, foam plastic is mounted under the sheathing.
Walls covered with foam plastic, and even covered with foil foam, are inexpensive and very effective. But every motorist knows that a decent garage should have a lot of shelves, hooks and other attachments. And in order, figuratively speaking, to hammer a nail into the wall, it must be strong and here you cannot do without the above-mentioned lathing.
- It is better to make the internal sheathing from bars. The thickness of the bar is selected according to the thickness of the insulation. Block walls this is not metal, they already have a certain insulating ability, so foam plastic 50 mm thick is used almost everywhere up to the northern regions. Under the lathing for foam plastic, I always take a 50x50 mm block;
- The direction of laying the lathing depends on the type of finishing cladding. If it is some kind of slatted finish, for example, lining or plastic panels, then the sheathing is installed perpendicular to the slats. For sheet sheathing, the direction of installation of the wooden sheathing is not particularly important, but most often the bars are attached vertically under the sheet;
- The step of fixing the bars on the wall is usually done precisely according to the width of the foam sheets. But it is desirable that this step does not exceed 70 cm;
- The bars are attached to self-tapping screws with plastic dowels " Quick installation"or on anchors, this already depends on the material from which the walls of your garage are made;
- After the sheathing is fixed to the wall, sheets of foam plastic are inserted between the bars. If they fit tightly, then there is no need to glue them. That’s basically the whole technology, then it’s attached to the sheathing finishing. In my opinion, lining, plywood or OSB are best suited for a garage.
Insulating a garage ceiling with foam plastic
Foam plastic is best suited for insulating ceilings from the inside metal roofs, as well as in block structures, where reinforced concrete floor slabs act as the roof.
In both cases the technology will be approximately the same. I already described how to prepare metal for installing foam plastic in the previous chapter. As for reinforced concrete floor slabs, the preparation here is a little different.
First, you will need to seal the seams between the floor slabs, as well as various kinds defects and chips, if any. It is usually recommended to use cement-based putty for this.
But I prefer to simply blow out all large defects in the ceiling with polyurethane foam. Naturally, the excess foam after hardening will need to be carefully cut off. After this, the reinforced concrete floor slabs should be covered with deep penetration soil. There are now many such compositions, but in most cases concrete contact is used.
Then the ceiling is insulated in much the same way as we insulated the walls of the garage. That is, the foam is glued to the metal ceiling using Liquid Nails glue or polyurethane foam. But if it was more convenient to work with foam on the walls, then “Liquid Nails” would be more suitable here.
Foam glues to reinforced concrete floor slabs just as well as to metal sheets. Although if you plan to sheathe the ceiling with any kind of finishing material, then you will need to attach a wooden sheathing to the ceiling, lay foam plastic between the guides and then sew on the cladding you have chosen.
Since we are talking about how to insulate a garage inexpensively, the most the best option The ceiling will be covered with polystyrene foam and glued foil penofol onto the foam plastic. After all, you don’t need to hang shelves on the ceiling or hammer nails into it, and foil penofol, firstly, looks good, and secondly, it is an additional layer of insulation, plus it creates the effect of a thermos and reflects heat rays inside.
Foam plastic for floor insulation
Polystyrene foam as floor insulation is only suitable if you plan to lay wooden floors. You cannot put foam plastic into the screed, because it will not withstand such weight and will simply collapse.
Of all those currently existing slab insulation Only extruded polystyrene foam is suitable for laying in reinforced concrete screed. Roads and even runways at modern airfields are insulated with this material, so it will certainly withstand your car.
In order for insulated wooden floors to stand firmly and not sag on the ground, you will have to pour a reinforced concrete screed. Naturally, if reinforced concrete floor slabs are laid on the floor, then no screed is needed.
To install a reinforced concrete screed, you will need to remove about 25 - 30 cm of soil from inside the garage. The bottom of the pit should be well compacted and covered with geotextile or technical polyethylene.
Then a sand and gravel cushion 50 - 100 mm thick is filled in, leveled and compacted well. According to the technology, you need to lay another layer of technical polyethylene on the sand and gravel cushion.
But, based on experience, in this case you can deviate from this rule and immediately knit a reinforcing frame on the pillow. For reinforcement, a reinforcing rod with a diameter of about 10 mm (±2 mm) is used. The frame is knitted in 2 layers with a gap of about 30 - 50 mm between layers.
To keep the frame in this position before pouring the concrete, I lay out pieces on a sand and gravel pad in a checkerboard pattern. broken bricks and on it I knit the first layer of mesh.
I again ensure the gap between the first and second layers of the reinforcement frame by laying broken bricks on pieces. Particular precision in maintaining the gaps is not required here, the main thing is that the mesh is completely “sunk” in the concrete layer and at the same time there are gaps between the first and second layers, as well as between the cushion and the lower grid.
The thickness is concrete slab must be at least 100 mm. Concrete hardens within 28 days. After this, a continuous layer of waterproofing is laid on the concrete screed. It is cheapest to use technical polyethylene.
To insulate wooden floors, foam plastic 50 mm thick will be quite enough. This means that we use a 50x50 mm wooden block as load-bearing logs. Floor joists are installed in increments of 30–40 cm and no more.
Foam plastic is placed between the lags as tightly as possible, and all gaps are filled with polyurethane foam. In the garage, a tongue-and-groove or simply planed board with a thickness of at least 40 mm is laid on the floor.
All wood used for arranging any structures in the garage must be treated with protective impregnations. There are now a lot of different universal impregnations sold on the market, so there will be no problems with the choice.
The top of the wooden floor in the garage can simply be painted. But in such cases I recommend laying linoleum. You shouldn’t buy expensive linoleum based material, our task is to protect upper layer wood from abrasion, moisture and mechanical damage.
Insulating garage doors with foam plastic
In the economical version, polystyrene foam is perhaps the only material that can be used to properly insulate garage doors. We will talk about insulating standard metal double doors garage doors, which are currently used by at least 70 - 80% of motorists in our great homeland.
Such gates are often welded from a metal sheet with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm, which is based on a frame made of angle or profiled pipe. As a rule, a corner is taken with a wing of 45 mm, and a profiled pipe is used with a square or rectangular cross-section of at least 40 mm.
Of course, foam boards, by analogy with the insulation of a metal ceiling and walls, can simply be glued from the inside of the gate. But the gate is not a ceiling; it is constantly in motion, plus there is a high probability of mechanical damage to the insulation.
Therefore, it is better to fasten a wooden sheathing made of a 50x50 mm block on the gate, put polystyrene foam into the sheathing, blow out the gaps with polyurethane foam and sew everything up, for example, with OSB sheets.
Wherein wooden sheathing is not attached to the main surface of the garage door, but to the supporting metal frame. A series of holes are drilled on the side in a corner or in a profiled pipe and a wooden block is fastened through them with wood screws.
A curtain hung at the top of the garage door opening is sometimes used as an additional heat shield. On the Internet, I often came across advice to make such a curtain with your own hands from cut strips of technical polyethylene. People simply saw something similar at car washes and decided that such a transparent curtain could be made from polyethylene.
So, if you love your car, then I don’t advise you to do this. At car washes, such curtains are made of soft transparent plastic and they are quite expensive.
Polyethylene is not suitable for this. One of my neighbors made himself such a plastic curtain and he was happy with it for no more than a month. No matter how strange it may sound, it turns out that polyethylene strips are left on car paint micro scratches. A month later, the car had to be polished again, and the plastic curtain went to the trash.
If you really want an inexpensive curtain, then install a metal pipe on top or stretch a string and hang sliding curtains made of ordinary tarpaulin on it. Naturally, you will have to move them apart and close them with your own hands, but the car will be intact and the garage will be warmer.
Option No. 2: insulate the garage with basalt wool
As you probably already understand, polystyrene foam is perhaps the best option for inexpensive insulation of a garage from the inside. But he's certainly not perfect. Polystyrene foam has 2 serious drawbacks: firstly, it burns, and secondly, mice breed in it.
Therefore, many owners prefer to use dense slabs of mineral wool for insulation. Basalt wool is now considered the best representative of this family. To prevent changes in humidity from causing shrinkage, slabs must be taken with a density of at least 180 kg/m³.
I’ll say right away that such slabs will cost more than polystyrene foam. Plus, not every garage can be insulated with cotton wool. So metal constructions It is strictly not recommended to insulate with cotton wool.
The fact is that the thermal conductivity of metal is quite high and if you line your metal garage with cotton slabs from the inside, then the so-called dew point will be inside the wadding slabs, which means that condensation will settle there and waterproofing here will be useless.
Every novice builder knows that cotton wool in any form is afraid of moisture, so such insulation will very quickly become unusable.
As for block structures, they can be insulated from the inside with cotton wool, and the technology for such insulation is not much different from the installation of foam plastic described above. But there are still some differences.
- So for gluing cotton slabs on concrete ceiling or walls, construction adhesive is used, approximately the same as for installation tiles. Personally, in such cases I use dry building mixtures from the Ceresit brand;
- Foil penofol will no longer stick to cotton slabs. To fix such a blanket through the insulation, blind holes about 50 mm deep are drilled into the base and plastic umbrella dowels are driven into them. The dowels are driven in a checkerboard pattern at intervals of 30 - 40 cm;
- Although cotton wool is an excellent material for insulating gable roofs on wooden rafters, here it is significantly ahead of all insulation materials, including polystyrene foam;
- So if the roof is covered with ordinary slate, then on top wooden rafters the sheathing is filled and slate is laid on it. To insulate such a roof, a vapor barrier membrane is stapled from the inside to the sheathing and rafters using a continuous sheet of fabric. Next, cotton slabs are tightly inserted between the rafters, after which the slabs are covered with another layer of vapor barrier membrane;
- In principle, you can stop there, but I always recommend additionally padding the inner layer of vapor barrier with a grid of thin wooden planks, for example, 20x30 mm. If you don’t mind spending money on planed planks, then you can use a simple slab, but it will look very mediocre. In addition, the sheathing made of planed wooden planks can be easily sheathed with the same plastic or any other facing material;
The vapor barrier membrane allows steam to pass in only one direction and this must be taken into account when installing it; the vapor-permeable side is marked on the membrane itself. Remember, steam must escape from the garage to the street.
- If you decide to lay wadding slabs in the sheathing on the walls or between the joists of a wooden floor, then the wooden blocks should be 20 - 30 mm higher than the wadding slabs. Here the technology is similar to insulating a gable roof.
First, a vapor barrier membrane is attached, then the slabs are inserted and the whole thing is covered with another layer of vapor barrier. Only between the second layer of vapor barrier and any finishing cladding There must be a ventilation gap; for this purpose, the load-bearing sheathing is made 20 - 30 mm above the insulation.
Option No. 3: insulating the garage with sawdust
Sawdust is practically a free material and our ancestors have used it to insulate houses since time immemorial. But in the case of a garage there are a number of restrictions. So in metal garages, only the floor can be insulated with sawdust. In block buildings, sawdust slabs can be installed almost anywhere, but only under the sheathing.
To install it in the lathing, you will need to make slabs of sawdust with your own hands. The sawdust is taken clean, without inclusions of bark or other debris. Fresh sawdust cannot be taken; it must sit for at least a year in a dry room.
To form the slabs you will have to knock down several wooden forms. Usually slabs are made with a thickness of 100 - 150 mm. The solution is mixed in the proportion of 10 parts sawdust, 1 part M500 cement and one part slaked lime. All this is mixed in a concrete mixer and only after that water is gradually added.
To determine readiness, you need to squeeze the solution in your hand. The solution should stick together, but water should not leak out of it. To protect against mice, add 2 - 3% to the solution. boric acid, and for the elasticity of the blocks, 1 - 2% gelatin is dissolved in water.
The solution must be poured into the molds, lightly tamped and wait until it dries. After which such briquettes are placed in the sheathing. Only here a fairly expensive vapor barrier membrane can be replaced with cheap glassine.
As you can see, there is much more hassle with sawdust than with polystyrene foam or mineral wool. Therefore, when it comes to sawdust, I recommend insulating only the floor with it. To do this, you will need to mix sawdust concrete.
Below in the table I have written out the composition of such sawdust concrete.
I have already described the technology for constructing a reinforced concrete screed above. Here it is the same, with the only difference being that the thickness of such a reinforced screed is made at least 150 - 200 mm.
A few words about insulating the garage floor with expanded clay
Expanded clay is strong, durable, and most importantly inexpensive insulation.
The technology for insulating a garage floor with expanded clay is somewhat reminiscent of arranging a conventional concrete screed, only the thickness of the layers will be slightly different.
- The pit here is dug to a depth of about 450 mm. After which the base is compacted and covered to the very top, overlapping the walls with a continuous layer of waterproofing. Technical polyethylene is the cheapest;
- A sand and gravel cushion about 50 mm thick is poured onto the waterproofing and compacted;
- Now expanded clay of medium and fine fractions is mixed in equal proportions, after which the insulation is filled with a thickness of 300 mm;
- The top layer is poured with a reinforced concrete screed 100 mm thick. I have already talked about this technology above.
Conclusion
As you can see, inexpensive insulation of a garage from the inside with your own hands is possible; the main thing here is not to get hung up on one thing, but to approach this process creatively. The photos and videos in this article show the nuances of insulating a garage yourself. If after studying the material you have any questions, welcome to the comments, we’ll talk.
In winter, during severe frosts, ice, frost or condensation may appear on the inner surface of the door - this indicates freezing of the metal entrance door. What to do in such a situation? The difference in temperature outside and indoors leads to such consequences and indicates poor thermal insulation of the door. Therefore, we will consider in detail how to insulate a metal door in a private house and apartment.
Metal by itself cannot serve as a heat insulator, i.e. it has a high thermal conductivity coefficient. Honeycomb cardboard, which fills most cheap, in particular Chinese doors, also does not cope with the function assigned to it. And it doesn’t have such a task; it is designed to reduce the weight of a metal door.
In rare cases, a cavity door leaf filled with insulation, but it is impossible to check its presence in doors in the middle price range, so you have to take the seller’s word for it, and then think about how to insulate an iron door with your own hands.
It's obvious that simple ways Like sticking a seal around the perimeter of the door leaf can do little to help in this situation. A more serious approach is required here, in particular, to insulate the entrance metal door in accordance with all the rules for carrying out thermal insulation work.
Do-it-yourself insulation of a metal entrance door
The process begins with the selection of the optimal thermal insulation material, which determines the effectiveness of insulation and its duration.
How to insulate a metal door
Types of insulation:
Penofol
Thanks to the reflective ability of the foil layer, it retains almost all the heat in the room. Used only as additional material.
Rigid insulation
These include polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene (penoplex). Their advantage is ease of installation and relatively low price. Since it is not hygroscopic, it does not require additional films. This is the only suitable option for installation in a cottage, country or rural house. Indeed, in this case the door serves as a barrier to low temperatures and wind, which is not observed in apartment buildings, where the door opens into the entrance.
Note. When choosing thermal insulation material, give preference to penoplex (expanded polystyrene). It is an order of magnitude denser than polystyrene foam and will provide the door with much more effective insulation.
Soft insulation
This category includes glass wool and mineral (basalt) wool. Their difference is only in the raw materials, in their thermal insulation characteristics they are not much different. Mineral wool is characterized by environmental friendliness, Fire safety, the ability to vary the installation height without additional trimming.
Cotton wool is sold in rolls or sheets, which makes it possible to cut blanks from it required sizes and place them in cells formed by the stiffening ribs of the door itself. To ensure the required height (thickness of insulation), simply press down the material (press cotton wool), the thermal insulation properties will not be affected.
But cotton wool has a drawback that prevents it from being recommended for installation in iron doors for private homes. Because the doors operate from different sides different temperatures, and sometimes the difference is up to 40 ° C (-15 outside and +25 in the house). This leads to a shift of the dew point inside the insulation, and the wool gets wet. The effect can be neutralized by installing a hydrobarrier film.
But, nevertheless, professionals do not recommend insulation iron door cotton wool in a private house. It can become an acceptable option only if the entrance door to the apartment is insulated, since in this case it is so big difference no in temperatures (it’s much warmer in the entrance than outside).
Inflatable insulation
Presented with polyurethane foam. Spraying makes it possible to fill all the cracks, but has a high price.
Thermal insulation metal doors"Lux" class is made using three types of material: polystyrene foam (main material), penofol (additional), polyurethane foam (filling the voids of the stiffeners and frames).
Note: a set of materials that can be found in stores is of little use for insulating an external metal door, because They use dermantin, foam rubber or synthetic winterizer as insulation.
Additional materials for door insulation
- liquid nails, hardware, polyurethane foam - when insulating with rigid insulation;
- hydrobarrier film, vapor barrier, adhesive tape - when soft;
- sheet of fiberboard, plywood, OSB (for cladding, if the door leaf is non-removable);
- decorative material for finishing: dermantin, MDF panels or plastic panels;
- seal (rubber, silicone).
Tools you will need: tape measure, drill, jigsaw, screwdriver, pencil, stationery knife.
Note. When working with glass wool, you need to take care to protect your respiratory tract, hands and eyes (respirator, gloves, goggles).
Frame structure inside the door (stiffening ribs)
After the door leaf is disassembled, it may turn out that there are no stiffeners in the door cavity, then they will need to be made.
For this, a metal profile or corner with dimensions corresponding to the thickness of the door is used. Its widespread use is due to the fact that it is easier to weld metal to the metal surface of the door.
However, many craftsmen agree that it is better to use a wooden beam, because... Wood has lower thermal conductivity. The difficulty when working with timber is that it is difficult to fasten it securely enough without damaging the front layer of the door leaf.
How to insulate a metal entrance door in a private house
Insulation technology steel door from the inside will be described in several stages, in the form step by step instructions so that even without experience in construction you can do the work yourself.
- the door leaf is removed from the hinges. Masters are able to perform work “by weight”, but for a beginner this can cause difficulties;
- all overhead elements are dismantled. These include: lock lining, handle, peephole;
- The casing on one side is dismantled. If the door is collapsible, i.e. it can be opened without disturbing one of the layers, then the dismantled plane of the door is set aside and then installed in place. Otherwise, one of the sides of the door (usually the inside) is cut off and subsequently replaced with chipboard sheet and finishing material;
Note. When planning to insulate a Chinese metal door, be prepared for the fact that it will not be possible to disassemble it. You'll just have to cut one of them front sides canvas and replace it later with an overlay made from a sheet of chipboard.
- If there are stiffening ribs inside the door cavity, you can begin laying insulation. Otherwise, you need to take care of their arrangement;
- formation of internal sheathing. To do this, first make a frame to which the stiffeners are mounted. The metal profile is welded, and the beam is fastened with hardware so that the integrity of the front covering of the door is not compromised.
Advice. It is not recommended to make only longitudinal or transverse frame cells; it is advisable to use a combination of them. Especially when it comes to insulation soft insulation, which tend to settle (fall down) during operation.
- Insulation is placed in the cells of the frame. When laying, you need to ensure that it completely fills the entire space of the cell, while corresponding to its height;
- When insulating with foam plastic, it is cut into blanks of the required size, liquid nails are applied to the blank and glued to the surface of the door. If there are cracks, it is recommended to fill them with foam;
How to insulate a metal door with polystyrene foam - video
- when insulating with cotton wool, work begins with laying the film, which should occupy the entire inner surface of the door and extend beyond it by 150-200 mm. Next, the cotton wool is cut into pieces of 10-15 mm. larger than the size of the cell (expanding a little, the cotton wool will easily fill them) and placed in the cells. Then the cotton wool is covered with a second layer of film, and the folds from the bottom layer of film are wrapped on the top layer of film and sealed with tape. Thus, the cotton wool turns out to be in a case, which will become reliable protection from moisture.
Note. If the cotton wool is not protected, it will get wet and conduct heat; in addition, it will come into contact with inner surface doors. And constant exposure to moisture on metal will sooner or later cause it to rust. Moreover, the average door does not have internal corrosion protection.
- the insulation is covered with penofol (if the door is facing the room) with a reflective layer into the room;
- if the door leaf is disassembled without problems, then the second removable part is installed in place, and the insulation of the metal door can be considered complete. But often, it is necessary to prepare a covering sheet that will replace the panel removed from one side of the door.
For these purposes, chipboard or plywood is used. To prepare the workpiece you need:
- transfer the dimensions of the door leaf, including the peephole and lock, onto the sheet;
- cut out a template;
- screw the sheet to the door frame with self-tapping screws;
- eliminate irregularities, protruding edges, and also grind off the edges of the sheet a little.
Note. The cladding panel is fastened from bottom to top. This way it will level out as you screw it in.
- The latter is used for decorative upholstery or door trim and installation of previously removed elements and fittings.
The result of all work will be an insulated metal door, which will reliably protect the premises from heat loss.
Now you can hang it back on the hinges and check the functionality of the handles and lock.
But it is worth noting that insulating a metal door only in the area of the door leaf is a small part of the possible work on thermal insulation of doors.
One of the sources of heat loss is the door frame. In most cases, it is hollow, which means it transmits heat well.
Insulation of metal door frames
Insulation door frame It is performed by blowing polyurethane foam inside the metal profile.
It's easy to do. It is enough to drill holes in the frame profile (not through holes) at a distance of 400-450 mm. The diameter of the hole is equal to the diameter of the tube from the foam container. After this, the cylinder tube is inserted into the profile and the foam fills the free space. Material prepared for the website www.site
Note. In the same way, you can insulate the metal stiffeners in the door cavity immediately after installing the frame.
Upholstery and insulation of an iron door - video
Additional insulation of the entrance metal door
In addition to the work performed, there are two more directions through which heat escapes outside (blowing from under the iron entrance door):
- through a loose fit of the door leaf to the frame. This problem can be eliminated by gluing a rubber seal around the perimeter of the door;
- through door slopes. In this case, you will have to dismantle the slopes and inspect the safety of the foam that was used. Restore foam if necessary. Then make a new insulated slope.
All work on insulating street or apartment metal doors can be done independently. But if you are afraid of making a mistake, it is better to order the services of a master. The cost of his work will be from 1,500 rubles. (excluding material cost). And the final price will be determined taking into account the type of door, the complexity of dismantling one side of the door leaf, the presence of stiffeners, the type of seal and the type of finishing material.
However, the costs of insulating external doors made of metal are always justified, since they entail a significant reduction in heat loss through the doorway and avoid the appearance of condensation on the surface of the door, which leads to the destruction of the door leaf.
Perhaps every car owner knows that the most optimal temperature at which the car should be kept is winter time should not be lower than -5º C. For owners of a separate permanent building, this problem is not so acute, since, for example, cinder block walls themselves act as insulation, but those who have a metal shell garage have to deal with the problem of cold indoors decide. In this regard, answering the question of how to insulate an iron garage is quite a priority task. What ways to solve the problem exist, and what are the features of the work will be discussed further.
Goals of work
First of all, it is necessary to decide why exactly insulation should be carried out, since the amount of work performed will depend on the understanding of this issue.
- Insulation of the garage is necessary to maintain optimal conditions for the car. Most components and mechanisms require a certain storage temperature. Especially if you plan to leave the car for more than one day.
- The metal walls of the garage do not provide thermal insulation at all in winter, and therefore become covered with frost from the inside. A warm car placed in such a garage will melt this frost, and over time ice will appear.
- In addition to purely practical aspects, it is necessary to mention that being, much less working, in a frozen garage is at least unpleasant, if not dangerous, and therefore insulation is necessary.
Insulation of walls and ceilings
So, you can’t do without insulating a metal garage, but how to do it? And in fact there are a considerable number of options. Some are more suitable, some less, but we can highlight some that are the most universal in most cases.
It should be noted right away that, by and large, three methods of insulation can be distinguished.
- Insulation from the inside.
- Insulation from outside.
- Combined option.
Each of the methods can be considered separately.
Foam insulation
Insulating a garage made of metal is not so difficult. For example, one of the most optimal options The work will be done by gluing foam boards to the walls and ceiling.
Note! It is better to carry out work in the warm season or pre-heat the room using a heat gun.
Before pasting, the walls must be washed, dried and degreased. The plates are glued tightly to each other, and the joints are blown with foam and taped with construction tape. It should be added that this option will solve the problem of insulation, but it will be extremely unstable to external influences, which means that after insulation the walls need to be additionally finished with some more durable material.
Foamed polyurethane
Another option for insulating a garage is to apply a special insulating compound. For example, such a composition is polyurethane foam. There are tons of options on the market, so there will be no shortage. The compositions are applied using a paint gun (spray gun).
Mineral wool
You can do it a little differently, and first equip the surfaces of the garage with a special sheathing, and place insulation, for example, mineral wool, in the resulting cells. After which all this is sheathed with the same metal profile. The result is something like a sandwich panel, which is a very effective option.
Note! This insulation method is also suitable for insulating the garage from the outside. However, it should be taken into account that usually the “shells” are located quite tightly, and therefore insulation from the outside may be impossible.
Note! One of the insulation options is a combination internal insulation and external, but it is not always possible to implement, although it is the most optimal.
Insulation of gates and floors
In addition to the above, we can add that when insulating a garage, special attention should be paid to the places, so to speak, of the greatest risk. As you might guess, such places are the garage door, as well as the floor of the room. The gate can be insulated according to the same principle as the rest of the surfaces of the room, but with the floor everything is somewhat more complicated. If the floor is metal, then there is little that can be done, but if the floor is concrete, then you can, for example, lay a layer of insulation and make a concrete screed on top of it.
In conclusion, we can add that there are quite a lot of options for completing the task of insulating a metal garage. You can get acquainted with them by watching a video on the mentioned topic. However, you need to understand that the main key to successful completion of work is a responsible approach to it, as well as the use of quality materials and compliance with installation technologies. At the same time, we should not forget about compliance with safety regulations.
Video
The girl complained about constant dampness and cold in the garage, so the walls and roof were insulated from the inside with polyurethane foam:
This video shows how the garage was insulated with mineral wool:
A regular metal garage can do a lot of things the most useful functions. During the winter, a caring car enthusiast leaves his car there, someone else stores provisions here, and someone equips the space for a special workshop. All this can be done provided that the garage must be insulated.
Optimal temperature for such a room – at least -5°C. At lower values, condensation will begin to form on the surface of the car, which leads to rust. It will be impossible to work in a box because of the cold, and storing vegetables will become impractical; they will simply begin to rot at the first thaw. In order to retain heat inside the room, it is necessary to select and install the insulation correctly.
Insulation materials
Using traditional metal garage building materials can significantly increase the temperature in the room.
For these purposes use:
- Styrofoam. This material belong to the most common type of insulation. It is convenient to work with polystyrene foam; it is cheap;
- Penoizol. This is a liquid form of the same foam. Penoizol has fire resistance and excellent water resistance. The durability of such insulation is 40 years;
- Basalt wool. This soft and inexpensive insulation is also called mineral wool. Garages are often insulated with mineral wool. And this material is one of the leaders in terms of popularity of use.
- Polyurethane foam. The durability of this building material is 50 years;
The above types practically do not differ in quality; reasonable prices determine the demand for all these products.
Having decided on the type of insulation for arranging thermal insulation from the inside of the box, you can begin the preparatory stage.
Necessary tools and building materials
It is better to insulate a garage in summer or spring. Sometimes the situation forces you to carry out work in cold weather, at low temperature. In this case, it is necessary to insulate the garage reliably quickly.
You need to prepare the tools in advance to use the allotted time productively:
- electric drill;
- building level;
- steel profile;
- welding machine;
- screwdriver;
- self-tapping screws;
- furniture stapler with staples;
- roulette;
- wooden blocks for installing sheathing crossbars;
- scissors for working with metal;
- protective gloves, special mask.
Preparation
While studying internal lining metal structures, first of all, care should be taken to ensure anti-corrosion. If there is rust on the surface of the walls, it should be removed with a special wire brush. If necessary, patch repairs of individual areas are carried out. After which the surface is treated with an anti-corrosion solution.
To provide optimal conditions You also need to create a ventilation system inside the room. It will be needed for circulation: the system will remove exhaust air, replacing it with fresh air. Otherwise, accumulated heavy vapors and gases can cause condensation. Condensation negatively affects the condition of the supporting structure of the garage, the car and stored products.
After applying the anti-corrosion solution, it usually takes several days for it to dry completely. Then they begin to insulate the box from the inside. This kind of work can be done with your own hands. According to the rules, first the walls are insulated, then the roof, gates, and only then, if necessary, the protection of the floor is strengthened.
Wall insulation
Let's consider the insulation procedure using the example of a material such as basalt wool.
This type of material has decent characteristics:
- durability;
- preservation of qualities even with high humidity;
- low thermal conductivity;
- resistance to mold;
- ease of working with insulation;
- environmental friendliness;
- fire resistance.
The sequence of covering garage walls with mineral insulation:
- First you need to determine the location of the sheathing. The amount of material used will depend on the square footage of the sheathed surface. Steel profile Great for frame construction. The use of wood in this case can lead to rapid destruction under the influence of moisture. Besides wooden structure May become deformed when wet.
- Start building vertical guides. The gap between the structures should be about 1-2 cm, that is, less than the width of the insulation itself. This way the material will expand completely and take up the entire space. To strengthen the system, horizontal transverse beams are placed every meter; wooden beams can be used here.
- The already installed sheathing begins to be surrounded with a membrane; you can use a different type waterproofing material. The joints that appear should be glued with tape, the film is attached to the staples, you can use a stapler for this.
- The insulation needs to be laid inside the resulting sheathing. Start laying from the bottom. In this case, no crevices should remain.
- A vapor barrier material is applied to the insulation, you can use plastic film or roofing felt.
- Finally, the sheathing is sheathed. The sheathing is made of non-combustible material, for example, using plasterboard or steel siding.
It should be taken into account that when covering a box, the space in the room narrows. Accordingly, it is better to choose not very voluminous insulation.
When covering a garage with foam plastic, you should take into account the peculiarities of the material. Such insulation will not expand like cotton wool, so it is better to make the gap between the guides a little smaller, for example 1-2 cm. It is better to create the sheathing in separate blocks, the dimensions of each of them should exactly repeat the dimensions of the foam sheets. If there are defects on the walls, then it is better to level the surface before insulation. It is recommended to use the profile L-shaped. Insulation sheets are attached with glue
Roof insulation
Typically the roof or ceiling of a garage is presented in the form single-pitch design. This roof design is considered budget and simple option. The basis for it are rafters resting on the Mauerlat.
At the stage of its construction
Now let's continue working. The mauerlat bars are laid on top of the box walls, secured with anchor bolts. It is better to carry out thermal insulation of the ceiling of an iron garage at the stage of its construction. In this case, you will need to go to work less strength and time.
The rafter system is assembled from wooden beams. The cross-section of each beam is 15x15 cm. The rafters are installed at an evenly equal distance, the gap reaches 60 cm. The main guideline in this case is the width of the insulation boards, according to the standard this size reaches 61 cm. The maximum thermal insulation elements can be laid between the rafters if there is a reserve .
The next stage will be the installation of a vapor barrier layer. To do this, you can purchase special membranes that are perfect for these purposes. They are attached to the rafters with staples and buttons. Existing joints are taped. From the inside of the building, the vapor barrier is sheathed with the selected material. Here you can use fiberboard or lining. This is an individual solution for each garage owner.
The sheathing is attached very carefully; it is necessary to ensure the tightness of the vapor barrier. Damage or defects that appear during operation should be repaired immediately. To do this, you can use sealant or tape.
The insulation is installed between the rafters. It is better to choose mineral wool for such work. Usually, the use of insulation with a thickness of 15 cm is considered sufficient. The thermal insulation layer can be increased if necessary.
Then they carry out standard technology for arranging the roof. First, the sheathing is made. The installation procedure depends on the characteristics of the used roofing. Afterwards, waterproofing is laid on the sheathing and the work is completed by laying the finishing material.
Thermal insulation after construction of a garage
The work on arranging thermal insulation of the ceiling, carried out after the construction of the garage, is slightly different from the process of insulating the roof during the construction of the box. In this case, thermal insulation is laid between the rafters, a vapor barrier film is laid on top, and finally the structure is sheathed with any suitable material.
Certain inconveniences may arise during the process of attaching thermal insulation boards. To eliminate the inconvenience, it is enough to simply fasten the insulation to avoid the material falling before the finishing sheathing begins. It is necessary to attach strips of waterproofing and vapor barrier material to the slings so that they prevent the insulation from falling.
It is considered inconvenient to work with the use of hard materials, therefore, it is better to sheathe the garage ceiling with foam plastic. In this case, there should be no holes on the roof surface outside or inside. If there are still holes in the ceiling, they must be repaired by welding. At the time of insulation, foam plastic is placed between a vapor barrier and a waterproofing material.
Entrance trim
If cold air enters through the cracks located in entrance gate garage, there is no benefit from insulating the internal walls. Laying rigid insulation, such as expanded polystyrene, will help solve this problem. First, the gates are insulated, and then front door.
Sequencing:
- The metal surface of the gate is treated with protective mastic. A material such as polystyrene foam is not afraid of the negative effects of moisture. But when opening the doors, snow or raindrops can sometimes penetrate into the crevice, ending up between the insulation and metal sheet. This cannot be allowed.
