Log cabin from profiled timber: shrinkage, assembly with your own hands. A house built from profiled timber is something more than a roof over your head. This is a place of endless comfort, which has attractive external data and excellent characteristics.
This is due to the fact that only natural materials without glue and harmful impurities. Thanks to this, the house will have an unusual atmosphere, and you will always feel comfortable in it.
Counts:
- The naturalness of the material.
- Low thermal conductivity - thanks to this, even in the cold season, the rooms will always be warm.
- Reliability and durability.
- Uniform and fast shrinkage of the material.
Building a house from a log house
Key stages of construction from a log house of profiled timber
Self-made construction of log cabins is a very complex and time-consuming process, which cannot be carried out without special skills. The first stage of work at which difficulties are encountered is the choice of material. The profiled bursa should have a cross section of at least 200 mm. But if you are building a 7 * 7 log house, which will be used only in summer, you can take material with a smaller section.
Don't forget that when self assembly shrinkage should be taken into account, which will be from 10 to 15 cm. We will divide the process of assembling a log house from profiled 7 * 7 into five parts.
Process:
- Scheme drawing, design.
- Fill .
- work.
- and outside work.
Main processes
Building walls
Creating and building walls is a very important process that should be done with all care. We lay out the rows of timber very carefully. Each subsequent one must be fastened with the previous dowel. Thanks to this action, the beam will not move to the side. To install the pins, you will need to drill holes that will be 40 mm in diameter. This is the ideal indicator for the dowels to easily enter the hole.
Important: If you set out to build a house for year-round use, do not forget about the compactor. To do this, in one of the bars it will be necessary to cut a protrusion, and in the other, cut a groove with similar dimensions. The layers of timber can be alternated with grooves and spikes. Such a structure will general design more reliable and stronger. You can’t make mistakes in laying, as you will have to take everything apart and start over.
If the size of a log house made of profiled timber is more than 7 * 7, at least one partition should be installed on the first floor. This will be a kind of support for the flooring on the second floor. In the end, when building walls, you will need to cut down window openings. Determine the location for the windows and cut out the openings. When drying the material, it is important that they are well ventilated. After shrinkage of the profiled frame, you can proceed with the installation of windows.
Recent work in the assembly of the log house
This is the final stage of the assembly. You only need to insulate the building and do the finishing, as well as roofing works. After everything is done, the construction will be officially considered completed. As you can use mineral wool / glass wool. For interior decoration or is perfect, but the first option will be much better.
Ready log cabin - order or do it yourself?
A log house made of profiled timber is an excellent building with a huge list of advantages. In order for it not to lose its remarkable qualities, it is recommended to order or buy a ready-made building, since during the construction by oneself there are many errors and problems, due to which the final version of the dwelling will not be comfortable.
With self-assembly, many questions will certainly arise, the answer to which will not even be given by every specialist. Many people, for lack of experience, make serious mistakes, and this is as a result of error and a violation of the integrity of the structure as a whole. In this case, the good old saying works: “The miser pays twice”, since you have to redo everything, hire a specialist and purchase additional material. To avoid such mistakes, there is a share of common sense to order or buy a ready-made log house from a reputable company.
Order and purchase - advantages and disadvantages
It is much easier to order a kit or buy a log house from a specialized company than to build a house yourself. This is due to such reasons:
Well, the main advantage in ordering a log house from profiled timber is savings. Indeed, it will be much cheaper for you to buy a ready-made building or place an order.
If you want to do the construction yourself, it will be more expensive for you for several reasons:
- The material will be purchased from specialized firms. But these same firms purchase timber at a cost several times lower than they sell.
- Material consumption. Do-it-yourself construction has never been without mistakes. A groove that you cut incorrectly or something else will lead to the purchase of new material. Experienced professionals are unlikely to make such mistakes.
- It is impossible to assemble a log house alone / together, so you will have to hire a team. Handymen who will help you will also have to pay.
Such costs usually exceed the payment for the order of the same log house in the company.
Additional advantages when ordering a log house from profiled timber
The advantages mentioned above are not the last ones on the list. When ordering or buying a finished log house, you will save time and effort. Even if you succeed on the materials (which is unlikely), it will take you a lot of time to assemble, and you will also have to wait for the shrinkage of the log house from the profiled timber. Contact the firm great option if you want to get a house in the shortest possible time, and you want it to meet all quality parameters.
You will also not be able to do the construction yourself in the winter. But this is not a hindrance for companies that, even in winter, assemble pediments, walls and partitions in production workshops. After that, they leave it for shrinkage and manage to do both the interior and exterior decoration by the beginning of spring.
The construction of glued beams has the following advantages:
- Production material - winter forest, and it has a dense structure.
- built in winter time, has a plus in the form of freezing moisture from the walls.
- So it is much better ventilated, due to which good shrinkage will be ensured.
Price
The price for the construction of a log house will depend on many factors, which include the quantity and quality of the timber, as well as its cross section and the complexity of the construction.
Prices are approximate.
Results
Do not forget that you should order kits only from well-known and time-tested companies. Do not forget that different companies have different prices for construction. So, an order in a popular company will be much more expensive than in a less popular company, but the quality of work will be the same.
Do not forget, that when choosing a log house, you should carefully examine it and notice all the details. Before buying, study all the characteristics and evaluate the quality. The finished product can be placed and immediately begin finishing work.
A profiled log house is a good housing for both seasonal and year-round use. All houses made of this material are very beautiful and attract everyone's attention.
To build a house from a bar, certain carpentry skills are required. The process of building a house is carried out in several stages. Laying of profiled timber should be carried out according to the developed technology in order to achieve best result. It is also important to carry out appropriate calculations and select high-quality materials. The work carried out by specialists will help to build a house as soon as possible and save costs.
Laying profiled timber using the correct technology will ensure high quality construction. Source tiu.ru
Foundation preparation
To build a house optimal foundation considered to be tape. For its arrangement, stones and vegetation are removed, mounds and pits are leveled. When the site is leveled, the marking of the territory is carried out. After that, a trench is dug, the depth of which depends on the height of the future building and the soil, the width is at least 25 cm. The profiled beam is light enough, so a shallow foundation can be used for a one-story building.
For construction of several floors or erection on unstable soil, the foundation must correspond to the level of soil freezing. On average, this figure reaches 1.2-1.5 m.
The following materials are needed for the foundation:
concrete, sand, gravel;
formwork;
reinforcing rods.
Every home starts with the preparation of the foundation. Source penza-press.ru
The trench is covered with sand and gravel, a mesh is laid with rods to reinforce the foundation. To connect the rods, it is recommended to use a knitting wire, not welding. The formwork is laid out, and then everything is poured with concrete. For the manufacture of concrete mortar, cement, sand and gravel are used - all components are thoroughly mixed. The ratio of materials is 1:3:4, the brand of cement is at least 400. The foundation stands for about 2 weeks.
Laying the first row
For the construction, only smooth and whole bars are used, which have no visible defects. Laying timber must meet all technological standards. Only light and dry materials are used, if gray sections or spots are found on it, then they cannot be used. In the process of construction, roofing material, bitumen, pins and an antiseptic are additionally laid.
For structural strength, dowels are used to fasten the timber Source myvideosait.ru
The dried foundation is covered with bitumen, roofing material is on top, its width is at least 20 cm more than the foundation, the edges hang evenly on both sides. Such waterproofing will protect the future structure from moisture. At all joints, the roofing material is laid with an overlap of 10 cm, well coated with bitumen and pressed. Before assembly, you must determine the type of connection in the corners. A cutout at the upper beam of the lower part is considered advantageous, and vice versa at the bottom. This mounting option allows you to save on material, and the ends will not go beyond the corners of the building.
All work on the assembly of the structure begins with the marking and further cutting of the prepared material. Before assembly, the tree is treated with an antiseptic, dried, and only then holes are drilled in it every 50 cm along the timber. Two beams are laid on both sides, more on top, grooves are made in them at the ends. The row is leveled, and the corners are adjusted, the protrusions are corrected with a planer.
After fixing the first row, assembling a house from a bar involves the installation of a floor covering, as well as the foundation of the walls. Beams of 15x10 cm are used. Grooves of 40 cm are cut out in the bars with inside(it is recommended to use "T"-shaped grooves), the ends of the beams must be cut. This method of tie-in increases the strength of the joints. After installing the beams, they are aligned horizontally so that they are in the same plane.
Beam marking
1 - joints;
A, C / D, B - longitudinal / transverse walls;
E - partitions.
Walls can be built from solid timber and extensions, partitions / transverse - from solid timber. In the longitudinal wall, an overlap of 15 cm is made to the floor. To obtain the most accurate and uniform dimensions and cutouts, it is best to use templates that will help you quickly complete the process and transfer the contours to the timber.
All markings on the bars are made according to one template Source pinterest.ru
Joining a log house, drilling holes, insulation
To connect each crown, dowels made of wood or metal are used. From the end of the beam, they are located at a distance of at least 25 cm, and then every 0.9-1.5 m. For any part, even the smallest, at least two dowels should be used, the length of which is at least one and a half times more timber. The pins must be deepened into the tree by a few centimeters.
The holes are slightly smaller in diameter so that they fit snugly. The depth of the hole is a few centimeters more than the dowels used. For drilling, a drill with a limiter is used so that all dimensions are the same. Sealing is carried out with a tape of a special insulation. The tape is stretched over the entire surface of the beam in several layers, fixed with staples. Outside, if the wall is not sheathed, the gasket is made at a distance of several centimeters so that it does not get wet.
The beam is overlapped on top of each other, the edges are fixed with dowels. Source rwhouse.ru
Walling
A log can be tied up in several ways:
in a paw or bowl - for round logs;
on the root tenon - for a rectangular section, a laborious method, but provides a high density of joints.
The pins used can be wood or metal. Standard sizes height 12-15 cm, thickness 2.5 cm, the holes for them should be a few centimeters deeper. The laid row is adjusted in the corners, the insulation is laid and the next crown of logs is laid on top, then the dowels are driven in. Insulation can be tow, felt or jute. Fixation of materials is carried out with a stapler. When several rows are assembled, openings for windows and doors are cut out, holes are made on the sections to ensure air exchange. On the last two rows, grooves are made for the ceiling.
At a sufficient level of laying the timber, openings for windows and doors are cut out. Source iskona.org
When assembling the walls, one must take into account the fact that virtually all the bars will differ by millimeters from each other, which can adversely affect the result. Therefore, to make a flat side is obtained only from the inside or outside. Sometimes a curved or twisted beam will come across. It is recommended that the former be cut into small pieces, and the latter should be used for various outbuildings on the site, baths, or used for other purposes. A beam curved in one plane cannot be used for walls, expecting that it will level out under the weight of other materials - this will not happen. A curved beam can be laid into the wall only by aligning it horizontally with consistent fixation with dowels.
In the course of work, the assembly is constantly checked, and the following parameters are controlled. If any deviations are found, further work is stopped until the problems are fixed. Special attention given to the height of the corners and verticality. In case of problems with verticality, the problem is eliminated up to the replacement of the bars. In this case, the height of the corners can be adjusted by spacers between the crowns.
All corners in the house, vertical and horizontal, must be 90° Source cocinandote.com
The assembly of a timber house can be carried out in two ways of laying timber - with or without residue. In the first case, you can get a warmer and more stable house with the simplest construction scheme. However, the material will be wasted with more waste, increased laying costs and a smaller building footprint. In addition, such a house is very difficult to insulate or sheathe with siding. In the second case, there will be no convex walls, so additional finishing and insulation can be carried out, the total space inside increases. But it is very important to adhere to all technology so that the house is not blown through.
Openings for doors and windows
The formation of the doorway begins with the 2nd crown, the height to the window is at least 70 cm. The formation of openings can be carried out in two ways. "Draft" opening preparation for the creation of the opening. The opening itself is equipped for installation after shrinkage of the timber. The assembly of the structure is accelerated, bars are mounted in the openings for fastening the walls.
In the second option, they are immediately equipped for installation, decks are placed that connect the timber and act as slopes. If installation is to be plastic windows, then the decks can not be put. A vertical groove is made at the ends along the opening, where the rail is inserted. Reiki / decks are made 5-7 cm smaller than the opening so that it does not interfere with shrinkage.
Installation of windows and doors with a "rough" opening is carried out by sawing it to the appropriate dimensions. The joints are sealed with a heater, it must be nailed at an angle. Then a window box is inserted, fixed to the deck with self-tapping screws, a gap for shrinkage on top, it is filled with soft insulation.
When installing the box, the windows must leave gaps for shrinkage. Source patter.ru
Roof assembly
The beams lie at a distance of 90-110 cm from each other, if the attic is used as a living space, then beams of 15-20 cm are used, non-residential - 10-15 cm. After that, the support posts and rafters are fastened. Boards with a width of about 15 cm and a maximum thickness of 2 cm are used for the crate. The distance between the rafters depends entirely on the weight of the ceiling, the standard is 1.2 cm, fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws or nails. Maximum attention is paid to the fasteners of the support posts. Waterproofing is laid on the crate, and then the roofing.
Video description
Briefly, the process of building a house from a bar displays this video:
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer turnkey construction of houses from profiled timber. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
Conclusion
Laying profiled timber requires certain knowledge and skills. It is very important to prepare quality material and observe all construction technology. Only in this case, you can get a good, warm and durable house, bathhouse or other building. Profiled timber is different favorable price and light weight, so it allows you to further save on the foundation.
Houses made of profiled timber are presented in the form of a constructor. Manufactured given material from logs with a certain diameter. The blanks are dried by storing them on pads.
A house made of profiled timber seems to be in the form of a constructor.
Profiling and parameters are given to the timber during processing on special machines.
The finished material has a landing head and an insulating groove.
Manufacturing technology
A house made of profiled timber is delivered to households disassembled. Installation of this design does not provide for the collection of waste of the base material. The installation of the building is carried out taking into account design features and wood production technologies.
In its middle, the density is higher and contains a lot of resin (coniferous) or tannins (deciduous). Due to the lack of sap flow in the core of the trunk, the tree has high strength.
Often this product is given the following profile:
- the outer side is flat or has the shape of a semi-oval;
- the inside is straight;
- the lower and upper sides have spikes and grooves (used when installing at home).
The production process itself is carried out as follows. Used as a starting material edged timber from pine. It has a high density and strength and practically does not contain moisture. Its cross section should be rectangular, without deviations and cut lines. The material that is affected by fungus and insects is also not used.
Before profiling, blanks are kept for 3-5 months in warehouses or placed in special drying chambers. It is necessary to check the material for moisture. This figure should not exceed 22%.
Profiling is carried out on special machines with 4 sides, in which the number of spindles exceeds 6 pieces, and the minimum section of the workpiece is 250x240 mm. As a result, it turns out ready product calculated shape or profiles with a smooth surface.
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Houses made of profiled timber have the following advantages:
- There is no need for additional thermal insulation - wood is a poor conductor, so such structures retain heat well in the cold season and do not allow hot air masses to enter the house in summer.
- Excellent resistance to vibrations - this material is often used when installing houses in seismic zones.
- The possibility of increasing the flammability index - for this, special impregnation is used. Easily provided if necessary fire safety through the interior of the building.
- The presence of clear forms in the profiled timber - therefore, such construction simplifies the finishing work that needs to be carried out inside the structure. This does not require additional preparation of the rough base.
- Significant money savings.
- Original appearance.
- Doesn't rot.
Installation of a house or a bath is carried out using a profiled beam, the cross section of which is 145X145 mm. Products of smaller parameters are used for arranging internal partitions. The seams are sealed special tapes from polyurethane foam or polyethylene foam. If possible, jute insulation is used. This procedure is carried out using the following tools:
- screwdriver;
- building level;
- hammer;
- roulette.
To tighten the bars, you will need special designs with dowels. Corner joints on a log house are made according to various technologies by using milling machine. The lock structure of this type is rigid and does not require additional processing. Upon completion of the foundation work, the house is tied. To do this, lower crowns and supports for partitions are placed on the base, and logs for the floor.
The next step in the installation of a house from a profiled beam is associated with assembly external walls. For this, the “groove-thorn” principle is used. During this process, window and door openings are formed. Further work and its terms depend on the drying, which was subjected to the main material - natural or chamber. With the first method, a pause is made in the installation of a house from a profiled beam for 6 months. This is necessary for the shrinkage of the material used. With natural drying, the moisture level of the timber is 22-30%, for chamber drying - 12-20%.
The choice of material is the primary problem that everyone who decides to build a small, reliable and comfortable house on their site with their own hands faces. Modern market building materials can safely boast of a huge range of raw materials for every taste and budget. Most people prefer wood. And it's not surprising, because wooden beam is an environmentally friendly and inexpensive material.
This material is presented in several variations, but in the article we will talk about how to build a house with our own hands from profiled timber, since it is he who is the most common and has the simplest installation technology. It is very malleable for processing, which means that you can easily carry out electrical wiring, plumbing and sewerage.
Drawing up a plan, preparing materials and tools
Without good project building a house is simply unrealistic, so it is very important to take it very seriously this stage, especially since it is on it that you can clearly understand what you can save on.
Ideally, you can seek help from special design agencies. For a fee, they will individually draw up a complete layout of the future home, taking into account the size and shape of your territory, soil composition, financial capabilities and, most importantly, personal preferences.
If you do not have a need for some miracle of design ideas, then you can build a building using standard options. To do this, all the necessary documentation can be found on free Internet resources or you can use one of several 3D editor programs, including FloorPlan3D, CyberMotion 3D-Designer, SEMA and many others. The latter, by the way, is designed just for the planning of houses from a bar. SEMA will help you carry out all the necessary statistical calculations, choose the type of truss system and much more.
The drawing should indicate everything from the overall dimensions of the building and the number of floors to the location of the door and window openings, furniture, all communications (light, water, heat).
As soon as the plan is in your hands, you can proceed to the calculation, if this has not already been done, and the choice of the required materials and tools, including:
- Beam as the main building material.
You can buy ready-made beams with the necessary cut grooves and spikes - bring it, install it - use it, also thanks to the perfectly even and smooth surface there is no need for additional finishing work, or you can buy wooden blanks, and make cuts yourself, there is nothing complicated in this, but you can save a lot.
Experts recommend taking a bar with a section of 150x150 mm during construction. But since you have to work alone or with an unskilled assistant, it is better to use material with a section of 150x100 mm. Such a beam is much lighter, and the missing volume can be restored in the future by insulating the facade outside the building.
- Insulation.
To further save money, as a heater, you can use materials that, so to speak, are “at hand”. The best among these is considered moss. It is not difficult to find and process it, but in its own way technical specifications it is identical to its artificial counterparts.
- Nails, self-tapping screws and other fastening structures (metal corners, wooden dowels, and so on).
- Waterproofing material (for example, roofing material).
- Ready-made concrete mortar or components necessary for its preparation (water, sand, crushed stone, cement).
- Fittings (if planned strip foundation).
- Saw.
- Electric jigsaw.
- Screwdriver.
- Hammer.
- Construction rubber hammer.
- Roulette.
- Building level.
- Plumb.
- Circular Saw.
- Pipes for water supply and sewerage.
- Cable for wiring electricity, TV.
- Master OK.
- Caulker.
- Other tools for small and decorative work.
Harvesting wood and moss for construction
To build a warm and cozy house from a bar, in addition to knowing the technology of laying crowns, it is important to understand which type of wood is best suited for this purpose.
Each breed, of course, has its own advantages and disadvantages, but the main thing that you need to pay attention to when choosing lumber is strength, density, moisture resistance and degree of drying. So, if the tree is fragile, then your house may simply fall apart very soon, if the density is low, then such material can shrink up to 20 or even more percent. If a lot of moisture accumulates in the fibers of the wood, then such a house will never be warm, but if the raw material is under-dried, then it will be simply impossible to work with it, over-dried - the material will become too unreliable.
Very serious requirements are imposed on the walls of the house, as they must provide warmth, comfort and low noise levels in the premises, especially since wood is a rather fire hazardous material that can deform due to weather precipitation. That is why experts recommend purchasing timber from conifers such as spruce, cedar, fir, larch and some others. Due to the high content of resinous substances, conifers are resistant to decay, cracking and other deformations. Also, the trees of this breed are very durable, light, so they do not create too much load on the foundation.
By choosing a softwood timber, you can save money by building a foundation using a simplified system.
If you decide to harvest the wood yourself, then you should know that the humidity coefficient should not exceed 20%, otherwise cracks will soon appear in the walls, which will require additional processing, and this extra costs effort, time and budget.
When harvesting, take into account the fact that it is better to do this in the winter period of the year (from January to March), since in winter the process of photosynthesis slows down and the speed of movement of juices along the tree trunk becomes minimal.
Cut lumber to desired shape and sizes, treat with an antiseptic and leave to be stored in a dry place inaccessible to sunlight. The bars must be stored compactly in special stacks, at a height of at least half a meter from the ground. There should be a gap of 4-5 and 10-15 cm between the crowns and rows. To do this, several cross beams. After lying like this for 5-6 months, the tree is ready for further processing and installation.
In order to keep your house warm in inclement weather, you should think about choosing an interventional insulation. Professional builders use modern tape materials, but the price for such a pleasure is quite high, so we recommend paying attention to moss.
There are more than 300 species of this plant in the world, but only a few varieties are used for construction purposes, among them: sphagnum, cuckoo moss, red and peat. All of them have excellent bactericidal properties and are excellent natural antiseptics. Among the minuses is a high flammability, since after drying, the moss becomes dry and brittle, for example, at high temperatures it can spontaneously ignite, to prevent this it is treated with special means.
Moss must be collected, you can find it in marshy areas - these are long, up to 30 cm, stems with small leaves, dry and store in a dry place for about two weeks. Plastic bags can be used as bags, but then the moss will be a little wet. There is nothing wrong with this.
Foundation construction
A high-quality foundation is the key to a reliable, stable and durable home. Since it is he who is the main supporting structure, which must withstand the total weight of the building, such high requirements are placed on him.
When building a house from a bar, three main types of foundation are used:
- Pile-screw.
- Nest.
- Tape.
The choice of the type of foundation depends mainly on the soil on which the construction of the house is planned. This issue needs to be resolved at the planning stage. You should conduct a soil analysis, you can also ask your neighbors what foundation their houses stand on, or look for information in documents on the purchase of a plot or other reference literature.
If the soil is heaving or watery, and also if you plan to use the house only seasonally, and not live there permanently, then one of the first two options is used. If it includes a large number sand or clay, then a strip foundation is suitable.
The first thing to start with is cleaning the area from debris, thickets, bushes and other objects that may interfere. Immediately before digging, it is necessary to mark up. To do this, use ordinary wooden pegs, which are placed at the corners of the site, as well as along bearing walls, and the thread that is pulled between them is simple. The next steps depend on the selected type of foundation.
Pile screw foundation
After the territory is cleared and ready for further manipulations, we proceed to earthworks. It is better to pre-purchase metal piles in a specialized store, since it is quite difficult to build such structures manually. Choose supports of the same size and be sure to have drills already welded on one end.
Due to the special design, the piles are easy to install on their own, while keeping an eye on the angle of inclination. A building magnetic level can help you with this. Also, if there was no cap on the screws, you need to install it yourself. To do this, use a processed sheet of metal 25x25 cm and 5-6 mm thick.
Nest foundation
The nested foundation differs only in that instead of metal piles, either monolithic concrete supports or hollow pipes with a diameter of 250-300 mm are used, into which cement mortar is poured after installation.
As soon as the marking of the territory has been carried out, at selected points along the perimeter it is necessary to dig holes with a depth of 2/3 of the height of the support. A layer of sand is poured to the bottom, moistened and tightly packed. After that, support structures are inserted into them at a right angle, if necessary, a solution is poured inside and into the space around them at the bottom. The remaining gaps between the supports and the ground are covered with a mixture of sand and gravel.
There is also an option to install formwork in dug holes and pour concrete mortar to ground level, we recommend using M400 cement in a ratio of 1: 3 with sand. After the cement has completely dried, the formwork is removed and aerated concrete or foam blocks 20x20x40 cm are laid on top.
Strip foundation
The strip foundation is the most common, as it can be used in the vast majority of cases, for example, if you are planning to build a heavy two- or more-story house.
The first step is to dig a trench with a width of 10-15 centimeters more than the thickness of the walls and a depth of 50-70 cm. It should be located at a height of at least a meter from the groundwater level.
There are several options for the strip foundation, among them:
- Brick.
- Concrete.
- Stone.
For any of them it is necessary to prepare the basis. A layer (10 cm) of sand is laid at the bottom of the trench, moistened with a small amount of water and carefully compacted; if necessary, sand can be poured in two layers. A layer (15-20 cm) of rubble is poured over it, broken brick or small stones.
By the way, geotextiles can be pre-laid at the bottom of the trench, and along the outer edge you can install thermal insulation material- this will help prevent freezing of a shallow foundation.
On the resulting pillow, if it is planned to build a brick or stone base, a little before reaching the top of the foundation, you can install the formwork. Inside, it is necessary to pour a layer of mortar to the level of the ground surface and tamp. To increase stability, we recommend creating a reinforcing frame from metal rods with a diameter of 1.2-1.5 mm.
Already on top, after the solution has completely solidified, bricks or stones are laid, which can be ordered, or used independently found near any reservoir. On top of the masonry, another reinforcement belt is installed and concreted (height 5-10 cm) and leveled.
If a concrete base is planned, then the height of the formwork should reach 30-50 cm, the thickness is 2-3 cm. If the formwork is planned from wood, then the material should be free of cracks, chips, bumps and other defects.
The reinforcement is installed in increments of 10-20 cm. The distance between rows is 5-10 cm. As a result, a grid with cells of 15-20 sq. cm. cement mortar, which you can either buy or prepare yourself. We recommend spending money on a concrete mixer - this will save you time and nerves, since mixing cement manually is quite long and difficult. Pre-formwork must be moistened with water or wrapped with a layer of plastic film.
It is very important to prevent the appearance of bubbles before the solution solidifies. A vibrating hammer will help with this, or you can simply punch holes in several places, later they will need to be filled with mortar.
The foundation is left to dry for 3-4 weeks. The formwork can be removed after 5-7 days, during which and a few more days, the solution must be sprayed with water in order to prevent cracking of the foundation. Don't forget to make holes for wiring.
Construction and insulation of walls and floors
The crowns of the first row are connected to each other traditionally, regardless of the method of connecting the subsequent rows, the “half-tree” is a fairly reliable and simple type of end cuts, and they are not laid directly on the foundation, but on a lining of small slats located transversely to the beam itself , at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. The gaps between the rails can be filled mounting foam. To cut the end cut, you can use a hacksaw, in order to remove excess material, go through the chisel.
So, if the slats rot, they will be easier to replace than whole line timber. The planks also need to be treated with an antiseptic or primer to prevent the development of fungus and various microorganisms, and put on a covered in two layers. waterproofing material, for example roofing felt, foundation.
The beam of the first row should have a little big sizes than the crowns of the remaining rows, for example, if a material with a section of 150x150 mm is used for walls, then for the first row use the option with a section of 200x200 mm.
It will be possible to mount logs for the subfloor on the lining of the boards using steel corners and nails or self-tapping screws. It is necessary to attach to them, the so-called cranial beam, on which the edged board for the subfloor will be laid in the future. A layer of waterproofing should be laid on top of the draft, and on top of it, insulation boards, such as mineral wool, polystyrene foam, or any other modern analogue. The next layer is a vapor barrier, and after - a finishing floor.
All subsequent rows are stacked identically to each other. There are two main ways to fasten bars:
- "With the remainder" is when a small part of the timber sticks out from its two ends.
- "Without a remainder."
The picture below shows different types end cuts.
This manipulation can be done using circular saw or electric jigsaw. Options "A" and "D" ("no residue") are the most reliable for residential buildings, but also the most difficult to install. Recommended for areas where annual precipitation does not exceed 300 mm. Option "Z" is used to connect internal load-bearing walls. Also note that the tenon-groove joints must be left with a gap of half a centimeter for the insulation.
Between themselves, the rows are fastened with wooden or metal dowels. We recommend using the second ones, since the lumber will not crack during drying, which will ensure the durability of your building.
Using pins for fasteners, it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of 30-40 mm. It is necessary to drill so that the timber of one row of dowels passes through, and the beam of the lower row is only partially, or you can use short dowels, for this, holes are cut from two opposite sides, a dowel is driven into one with a hammer, and simply inserted into the next. Remember that pins should not be located on top of each other. In order for the design to be as stable as possible, arrange them in a checkerboard pattern, as shown in the figure below.
If the walls of your house turned out to be longer than the timber - it does not matter. In this case, it is necessary to cut a rectangular hole at the end of one beam, and a rectangular protrusion right in the center at the end of the second, so you get a tenon-groove connection.
The space between the crowns can be insulated with pre-collected and dried moss and tow. The tow is laid across the beams, while the moss is simply thrown over the top. Thus, when installing the upper crown, part of the insulation will stick out - this is not scary, since work on caulking is planned in the future, and it, in turn, will provide maximum thermal insulation.
In order for the bars of the same row to be at the same height, we use rubber mallet, tapping it along the walls after installing each beam. The planer is used at the end, only after you have noticed that due to the unevenness of the bottom row, it is impossible to install the timber of the upper row.
*Important! Don't forget to alternate corner joints.
The last two rows of crowns are not attached, since in the future, after shrinkage, a rafter system will be installed. To do this, you will have to temporarily dismantle these two rows.
To design door and window openings, you can use two methods: either lay out all the rows, and then, having made a mark, cut out the necessary holes with an electric jigsaw, or use beams of this length in advance so that they later form windows and doors. Remember that the size of the openings must exceed the size of the door itself or the window itself, since it is still necessary to leave room for installing window and door frames. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 10-15 cm above the windows and doors. This is necessary so that in the future, when the beam shrinks, not to damage the construction of windows and doors. It will need to be filled with liquid insulation.
Roofing roof
After the last row of crowns has been erected, the building must be covered with roofing felt or slate and allowed to settle. The shrinkage period on average takes up to 6 months, only after that you can proceed to the installation of the roof and facing work.
There are a huge number of variations of roofs. The most reliable and stable is considered to be a four-slope or hip roof, applicable in regions with high humidity and strong winds, but since it is quite difficult to build it without the help of specialists, we recommend installing a gable. We will briefly describe the installation steps and the main elements.
First you need to isolate the surface of the walls from moisture, using, for example, roofing material. It needs to be applied in two layers. After attaching the Mauerlat - the base for the truss system, in which special cutouts are made, with which they are attached rafter legs. Mauerlat will serve as the top row of crowns, pre-treated with an antiseptic.
The rafters themselves, depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe house, must be made of timber with a section of 100x50, 150x50 or 200x50 mm. They should not protrude beyond the house by more than half a meter, if more, it is planned to install additional supports. Installed on rafter legs wooden crate from slats 5-6 cm thick and 10-20 cm wide with a step that depends on the roofing material (tiles - planks are laid end-to-end, if slate or corrugated board - at a distance of 30 cm from each other). Sometimes they install a counter-lattice, on top of which they mount it themselves roofing material. Insulation, vapor and waterproofing are laid in the resulting space between the two crates.
The ceiling consists of several ceiling joists, which are fastened using the tongue-and-groove method to the top row of timber. The rest of the manipulations are identical to the floor. Between the finishing and rough ceiling, you can additionally lay insulation, insulation. In the future, this can reduce heat loss by up to 30%.
In order for the roof to be stable, strong, withstand strong winds and last for many years, it is worth thinking about an additional supporting structures, such as a crossbar, struts, tightening, racks and others. All of them are fastened with hardware, such as steel corners and self-tapping screws.
Do not forget to leave ventilation gaps, a hole for the chimney and an attic, if one is planned. The fronts of the roof can be sewn up with clapboard, decorative block house.
Remember! Every roof needs repair over time. Therefore, in order to reduce financial costs, experts recommend annually checking the coating for damage and various deformations, such as deflection and leakage. The first is eliminated by installing additional supports (crossbars, racks, and so on), and the leak is eliminated by replacing the rotten roofing material.
Let's summarize
The last step construction works is to set the input and interior doors, windows. If necessary, work on insulation and decorative trim walls either inside or outside the house. Conduct electricity, water, heat, connect the sewerage system.
Now that you know the main stages of building a house from a bar on your own, as well as ways to save money, you can start building a warm, cozy and reliable home that will warm and delight you for many years.
The beam is used in the construction of private houses quite often. This is due to its environmental friendliness and versatility. Also, this material is quite easy to use and install. The technology of building houses is simple and does not require much time. To understand how a log house is assembled from a bar on its own, you should familiarize yourself with the process in more detail.
general information
The beam is made from solid tree trunks. They are cut from 4 sides, resulting in rectangular building elements.
There are several types of timber:
- glued - consists of lamellas connected together;
- profiled timber - has grooves, due to which it securely adheres to adjacent structural elements;
- regular - has a rectangular or square shape.
Advice! Raw timber is cheaper than other types of material.
Particular attention should be paid to profiled timber. It is usually equipped with special grooves on both sides. Thanks to this solution, the docking of various elements is easy and fast. At the same time, cracks and distortions do not form in the timber.
It is also worth mentioning the features of glued beams. This material is made from different elements, which are glued together with a special composition. Such a beam does not dry out over time. It also doesn't show cracks.
Design
To install a log house from a bar with your own hands, you will need good preparation. In any case, construction begins with a project. It should reflect the dimensions of the building, the materials used, as well as a drawing of the building with detailed description. This will allow you to build just such a house from a bar that will meet all the needs of the customer. In addition, with the help of design, it is possible to accurately calculate the amount of materials used.
At the stage of designing a house from a bar, it is worth considering a lot of little things that you will have to face in the future:
- it is necessary to decide where the material will be purchased, as well as where it will be stored until the start of construction;
- what communications will be carried out to the site, and which ones have already been carried out;
- it is also necessary to contact the local architectural bureau for permission before starting work;
- budgeting is an important step in creating a house from a bar.
Attention! When calculating the dimensions of the building, the cross section of the beam should be taken into account. The standard parameters are 100x100 and 200x200 mm.
Also a fairly popular option is a bar 15x15cm. After finishing preparatory phase construction can begin.
Building
In the process of building a house from a bar, you will need to complete a number of subsequent steps, starting with pouring the foundation and ending with the construction of the roof. Each of them will require the most responsible approach to work.
Foundation
The durability of a house made of timber depends on the quality of the poured foundation. Such work is one of the most important when building a house. In addition, the construction of the foundation is the most difficult stage. However, subject to all the subtleties, such work can be done independently.
First, you should decide what type of foundation to choose for a house from a bar. The strip foundation is especially popular among private developers. It is usually built for multi-level buildings. You can also install a pile or monolithic foundation. In the latter case, the cost of pouring the foundation will be significant. In addition, such foundations are usually not erected for a beam - wooden structures are light in weight.
What type of foundation will be chosen for a house made of timber depends on the characteristics of the landscape of the site. Foundation costs are equal to 30% of the budget of the entire building. The filling process is quite complicated, so you have to be patient.
Advice! To make the installation of the foundation of a house from a bar faster and more convenient, you can purchase screw piles. They are installed within 1 day.
Laying the first crown
First, the bottom trim is laid. This structural element is more exposed to bad weather and insects than others. The foundation should be as level as possible. The first crown is always treated with an antiseptic. This will ensure its full protection from various negative influences.
Important! When laying the exterior walls of a house from a bar, it is worth using a bar of 150x150 mm. When arranging internal partitions and beams for the floor, it is better to choose a beam of 100x50 mm.
Flooring and walls
After installation bottom strapping lay the logs of the flooring of the house from a bar. It is better if they are mounted on edge. Logs are sewn up with a rough floor. It should be made from boards 25x150 mm. The work on laying the floor is completed with the laying of the final coating. Usually it is made of sheet pile.
Walls
Walls are built quite simply. In the process of work, you just need to lay the bars on top of each other. The main thing is to correct installation first crown. To fasten the rows vertically, use special elements - dowels. They exclude twisting of a bar or its displacement. Wood or metal can be used as a material for dowels.
When choosing wooden pins, they are made from the type of wood from which the beam itself is made. Metal dowels differ in greater reliability and price.
The driving of the pins is carried out, as in the case with brickwork. Nagels are hammered through several rows through one. Under the pins, holes of the appropriate diameter should be pre-drilled. It is necessary that the pins are inserted without effort. Install them every one and a half meters.
Important! To insulate the walls and give them greater strength, a sealant should be laid between the rows. Tow should be used as the material.
Best to do gusset type "warm corner". Corners with this connection are not blown. Partitions must be cut into the main walls. Their installation is carried out after the construction of the frame.
Window openings are sawn after laying the timber. Then the house must be left for 1-2 years to shrink. Only after that you can install the doors and windows themselves.
Roof
The beams of the ceiling, as well as the truss system and the crate, are laid according to the project. The drawings should indicate all materials used and the dimensions of each element. After the walls are built, it is necessary to lay logs protruding 50 cm beyond the base.
To make the roof as reliable as possible, you should choose a beam of 150x100 mm. Wooden elements are mounted on the edge. There should be 90 cm between them. After that, it is necessary to assemble the truss system. For her, it is better to choose boards 5x15 cm. This design will be the basis of the roof, so it should be strengthened with crossbars, braces and racks.
After the frame is installed, you can start laying out the fronts. Their frame is made of timber 150x150 mm. Board or siding is used as sheathing. On last step it is necessary to nail the crate of boards 2.5x15 cm. The crate should be done in increments of no more than 400 mm.
Roofing is made of various materials:
- metal tile;
- corrugated board;
- ondulin;
- ruberoid.
Usually together with the house on suburban area immediately arrange a bath. That is why its construction is worth considering in more detail.
Log bath
Construction technology in this case is not much different from the method of building a house from a bar. However, during the construction process, several features should be taken into account. There is a specific instruction for the construction of a bath:
First, the foundation is made. More best options- pile or belt type grounds. Their choice depends on the characteristics of the soil.
Then choose the material. Most to build baths will do glued or profiled timber 150x150 mm, made of coniferous wood.
The first crown is laid on top of it, as well as logs for floor covering and partitions within the building. The floor must be sloped towards the drain. The drain should be equipped with a water lock so that cold air does not flow through it.
After that, it is necessary to lay the wall beams, in the "end tongue" or in the "paw". As in the construction of a house, pins can be used to fasten the crowns.
When installing the stove, it should be noted that the firebox is located in the steam room, and the water tank is in washing department. If you have experience in building a log house, installing a bath is not difficult.
conclusions
As you can see, the creation of a log house from a bar is not very difficult. Even with little building experience, you can do all the work yourself. The result is a reliable and durable house, which will be built in the shortest possible time.
If the house will have complex structure, before construction it is worth consulting with professionals. Also, before work, it is better to prepare all the tools and materials in advance.
A house is assembled from a bar in stages. First you need to pour the foundation. The choice of the type of foundation depends on the characteristics of the soil and the number of storeys of the building. It is better to choose tape or pile foundation. After that, walls are erected. They should have the most accurate geometry. The fastening of the crowns is carried out with the help of dowels.
