Do you have own house or a backyard? Then this information is dedicated to you. Interior design yard - the pride of the hostess. Of course you want to brag beautiful design. A flower garden will help make it so. An interestingly designed flower garden is 80% of a successful landscape design. We suggest using roses. You may think that this is old and banal. But in fact, a rose can be different: refined, delicate, playful, cheerful, noble, and, accordingly, it gives this mood to the atmosphere, guests and hosts.
The design of the yard should be beautiful, because this is the face of the hostess
Roses are great for landscaping
Roses do not require special care
If you still doubt whether it is worth using roses in your backyard, consider all the associated advantages and disadvantages of such a choice.
Advantages
- Beauty. This is the first and most powerful argument. Like it or not, a rose is a flower of extraordinary beauty.
- A large assortment. At the moment there are many fans of this culture. And the breeders took care of them, providing a large selection of different species.
- Care. Roses do not require special feeding or very complex care.
Flaws. We have calculated the only drawback: poor frost resistance. Roses are heat-loving plants, so she does not like the harsh Russian frosts. However, there are already frost-resistant species. In addition, a grafted rose is more resistant to frost. So this issue can be easily resolved.
The only drawback of roses is poor frost resistance.
Roses will look very beautiful in the design of the yard
Ideas
Since we have decided to use roses in garden design, consider interesting ideas how to apply them correctly. There are no specific strict options for arranging a site with roses - who said that you need to act one way or another? But within the framework of one project, one should adhere to established rules to achieve the desired result. Therefore, we offer possible ideas and schemes on how to translate them into reality.
We will study in more detail the proposed options and how to implement them.
You can equip the site in any way
You can decorate anything with roses
Arches with roses in the garden will look very beautiful
Vertical rose garden
This option is very convenient for arranging a shady gazebo. Using climbing roses, you will achieve desired effect, and turn an ordinary gazebo into a fabulous corner. To do this, you need to plant bushes at a distance of half a meter from the walls of the gazebo in a fairly dense row. Then you need to make fasteners. Drive short pegs into the ground next to the bush (so as not to damage the root), tie a tight rope to it (white twine is best), and fasten it to the walls and roof of the gazebo in accordance with what pattern you want to achieve.
As soon as the rose begins to sprout, you need to guide it along the rope, thereby fixing it on it. Then she will independently adhere to this support.
Another beautiful and unusual version of the vertical rose garden is the arch. Such an element in landscape design your site will give it some zest. It is built on the same principle as the frame of the gazebo, only instead of ropes, a metal arch becomes a support. If desired, you can attach several ropes to this base to give more volume to the composition.
Once the rose has begun to grow, it must be directed in the right direction.
Curly roses will perfectly complement the landscaping of the yard
Hedge
We are accustomed to seeing hedges built from certain kinds of bushes. But you can create it from roses. Such an idea will look even better, and when it blooms - especially.
You can build such a miracle both in front of the yard and in the backyard, and frame the path from the gate to the house. The composition will look good in any area of the site and perform its function.
There is nothing complicated in its manufacture. The case is divided into several stages. The first one is the most milestone: you need to draw a plan for the location of the fence. You can embody any ideas: from a simple line to the most bizarre shapes. In order not to get confused, and subsequently plant the bushes correctly, having achieved the desired pattern, do not ignore this step.
Arches with roses will look very beautiful
Rose arches will create an amazing atmosphere in the yard
Choose the color of roses carefully
We transfer the drawing to the surface of the earth. After calculating the required space, the distance between the bushes and the shape of the hedge, make notes on the plots of land intended for planting.
We turn to the choice of roses. For hedges, it is better to use undersized bushes. They are usually compact, ball-like, and can create a hedge effect, especially if planted close together. But make sure that the distance is sufficient for the normal functioning of the plant, and the roots do not interfere with each other.
It remains to complete what has been started, and plant the bushes in the holes made in the places previously planned.
You can use tall bushes or medium ones. But they will leave gaps below, and framing the path, interfere with free passage. The most profitable option is a short look.
Roses can be combined with other flowers
You can combine roses with any number of flowers
Compositions
We approach the most interesting. Here you can combine all landscape design techniques and turn your fantasies into reality.
When composing a composition, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances. Let's see what awaits us. In general, pay attention to:
- location (shade, light, humidity);
- the presence of a strictly designed layout;
- number and type of roses;
- the presence of other plants;
- the compatibility of roses with other elements of the composition;
- ease of aftercare.
So what do we mean? When using roses to compose a composition with inanimate elements, pay attention that there is enough space for the roots to develop, also the convenience of watering, and whether any elements will create an unfavorable atmosphere for plant growth (for example, a pond). When combining with other plants, be sure to ask if they will take root together.
As in the previous version, this one requires a precise plan, even more rigorous. The main element in the proposed compositions will be an inanimate object (fountain, pond), and roses serve as an arrangement, so you need to focus on it. Take all the necessary measurements, calculate required amount place and material, and create precise drawing location of objects. To do this, it is better to invite a landscape designer, which will significantly reduce your work and time.
So, many housewives dream of their own "swan lake". Why not? It is quite possible to create it in your yard. Start with a pond. Do good system water supply and pumping. We focus on the latter, since poor water circulation will lead to its flowering, the formation of an unpleasant odor.
When composing a composition, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances
When combining with other plants, be sure to ask if they will take root together.
Creating stunning landscaping with roses is easy
For framing a pond, a “savage” stone is better suited. It will give ease appearance. However, you can use any decorative stone.
Having done the main part, we proceed to the subsequent design. Arrange planting of roses. In accordance with the plan, we plant the plants in the appropriate order. It is better to plant them at a short distance around the pond, or make flower beds nearby. For such a composition, a bench is well suited. It can also be decorated with roses, and make a path to it from the pond, falling asleep with small gravel and planting undersized species along it.
The main detail in the next idea is the fountain. The first and second stages are the same. It is also necessary to draw a plan, and purchase a good system for the proper circulation of water in the fountain. Then complete the composition with roses.
You can also use a waterfall as a base - this combination will also be attractive. If you don't want to deal with water, make a dry pond. This requires a frame made of any stone (as for a pond with water, only low). Fill the resulting shape with small pebbles, you can draw something inside by painting certain areas. To do this, use spray paint, or pre-soak groups of pebbles in another type of paint.
So, you can create any composition using whatever is at hand.
Roses in the yard will give a pleasant mood
Design can be created from improvised means
Flowers and colors
Using roses in landscape design, they can be combined with other plants or inanimate objects (as in the examples above). To do this correctly and safely for the plant, pay attention to the following factors:
- plant compatibility (the required amount of moisture, light, etc.);
- do artificial inclusions interfere with the normal growth of the flower;
- from an aesthetic point of view - color combinations.
These three factors are fundamental when arranging a garden and yard with roses. Be sure to follow them.
When choosing plants, consider compatibility
The color of the plants should be combined with other colors.
Roses do not require special care
Care
The key to a beautiful and long-lived corner with roses - proper care. Naturally, the plant requires watering. When performing this task, keep an eye on the required water level: do not fill in too much, but do not let it dry out either.
Feed the flowers. Roses do not require special meals. However, additional soil nutrients will benefit them.
The key to a beautiful and long-lived corner with roses is proper care
Follow the conditions of the necessary illumination in accordance with the type of plant.
Cover roses for the winter as they are not frost resistant.
As you can see, the rose is the queen of flowers, and everyone can cope with it. The main thing is the right care, and the creation of a composition with a heart filled with love for flowers.
Video: Combination of roses with other flowers
Planting roses in the spring begins after a thorough warming up of the soil and the establishment of warm weather for working with open ground. It is undesirable to plant roses in May, since warming and possible droughts prevent the seedlings from taking root normally. late boarding the risk of rather slow development of plants and poor flowering of roses in the first year increases. Early planting in spring involves maximum rooting of shoots with two or three buds left at the root collar. This will stimulate dormant buds and cause their active development.
Planting roses in spring. How to plant a rose
Ornamental roses, if grafted onto wild roses, are not too picky about the soil. Own-rooted roses require more attention. Before planting, you need to update the sections of the roots, cutting them to 18-20 cm, and remove the dried roots to living tissue.
Then dig holes up to a depth of 30 cm, and mix the excavated soil well with rotted manure (10 parts of soil per 1 part of manure). Next, the roots are placed in the hole, freely and evenly distributing them.
The root neck should be at the level of the top layer of the earth. The roots are sprinkled with loose soil up to half of the hole, watered with water to compact. Then the soil is filled up to the ground level, the vertical position of the plant is corrected and the level of the root neck is checked.
After that, the soil can be slightly compacted and watered again. After complete absorption of moisture, the surface of the hole is mulched with dry earth. This will prevent moisture from evaporating intensively and protect the roots from drying out.
by the most favorable time planting roses in the country is spring, depending on the weather, both the end of April and the beginning of May are suitable. Roses are heat-loving plants and demanding on warm soil.
Autumn planting is risky in our area in that some of the planted bushes will not be able to take root well, they will die in frosts. But the ground for spring planting of roses is being prepared in the fall. On suburban area dig holes half a meter in diameter of the same depth.
At the bottom, drainage is arranged in several layers. Small stones, expanded clay will fit for its device. This layer is covered with sand from above (up to 10 cm). On wet, heavy soils in the country, drainage is strictly required.
Roses do not like excessive dampness. It is recommended to put organic matter on the sandy layer - rotten grass (without seeds!), Leaves, dust from aged trees. All this will come in handy as a wonderful fertilizer for roses.
The top and last layer (about 25 cm) can be covered with the old, weed-free earth or peat. It is advisable to pay attention to the acidity of the earth in the country. Roses love neutral or slightly acidic earth.
If there is acidic soil in the country, it is good to add ash to peat, dolomite flour(1/1). Neutral soil can be diluted with fertilizers.
A planting pit for a rose bush will require superphosphate, organics, potash fertilizers in the proportion of 25 g / 7 kg / 10 g. Starting planting, you need to carefully examine the roots: damaged areas are cut directly to living tissue, good roots are left about 20 cm long. Should be cut and a bush: dry, weak shoots are cut out completely, 6 buds are left for strong ones, and 3 for medium ones. When planting, be sure to cover the grafting site with a layer of earth for 5-7 cm.
Then the ground around the rose bush must be tamped, and the landing itself should be watered (at least 1 bucket of water per bush). Non-woven material can be used to protect seedlings from bright spring rays.
When heat is established and the earth in the country is completely warm, they remove the shelter and unravel the shoots. The size of the shoots by this time reaches 5 cm. To stimulate good growth in roses, when planting, cut the tops of the shoots.
When planting roses in the autumn at the dacha, the pits should be prepared in advance (1-1.5 months). Climbing roses are planted near the support and deeper.
Caring for climbing roses: transplanting, choosing a pot, planting and watering. It is not enough to plant roses, you need to grow them according to the rules of agricultural technology. And growing roses is a troublesome business, including feeding, pruning, watering, shelter for the winter from frost.
Two days after planting, the ground around the seedlings is loosened very carefully, trying not to touch the roots. Next, hilling is done with earth (up to 10 cm). As soon as the buds start growing, the ground is removed from the shoots. Now is the time to feed the roses with complex fertilizer.
The amount of fertilizer should not be more than 20 g/bush. Re-feeding is organized in the middle of summer. This is necessary for the abundant full flowering of roses. It is very useful to carry out every two years spring top dressing rose bushes with a small amount of manure.
When growing rose bushes in the country, pinching the shoots makes it possible to adjust the timing of the flowering of roses.
About the intricacies of watering
Roses need to be watered weekly. The best time to water roses is evening, early morning. During the periods of formation of shoots, as well as during flowering, watering is done abundantly.
But wetting the leaves should be avoided. Even when planting, an earthen roller should be formed around the rose bush. It will help in the future to avoid the spreading of water. And after watering, as the land near the roses dries up, it is necessary to loosen it, since the roots of the plant need oxygen.
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How to beat diseases
For the productive cultivation of roses, you should learn all the problems inherent in them. All plants, including roses, are susceptible to disease and damage from various pests. In the spring, protection of roses from aphids begins, spraying young shoots with an insecticide once every 3 weeks.
From a disease called powdery mildew during the growing season, rose bushes are sprayed with fungicides. If the roses become infected with black spot or rust, the affected leaves must be removed, and the plants should be sprayed with agents containing copper and zinc. Early enough in the spring, for prevention purposes, it is best to treat rose bushes with a fungicide specially invented for roses.
Growing features
Dried rose flowers should be plucked. This is necessary for the appearance of new buds on the bushes and lengthening the flowering period. It happens that many buds are tied on one shoot.
But to get a large flower, everything is removed except the central one. In a similar way, processes from the lower buds of the stem are disposed of, because they will retard the growth and full development of the central shoot. Strong young shoots of roses at a height of 30 cm are pruned because they enhance the formation of side shoots. Light green barren chicks should be removed completely.
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pruning
Growing a rose without pruning does not happen. Bushes are heavily pruned after a heavy winter, while the plant remains with shoots consisting of only a few buds. So the rose is renewed.
Moderate pruning of a rose is marked by leaving 6 buds on the stem, with a weak plant, the plant remains with 12 buds on the shoot. This type of work is performed with a pruner. It is worth monitoring the cleanliness and sharpness of its blades. It is better to do pruning from the very base of the bush.
Smooth cuts are made at an angle of 45 degrees above the kidney by 7 mm. In order for the rose to continue to decorate the dacha, the sections are covered with garden pitch. The dacha can get additional decorativeness by giving the rose bushes an attractive shape.
When pruning, excess shoots that can only thicken the bush are removed. In the spring, while the rose is still sleeping, or before winter shelter, pruning is done. It is necessary to completely cut out the dried old stems, along with them sick and weak.
Then the cottage will always please the eye thanks to healthy beautiful bushes roses. Without any regret, shoots that have grown from the trunk below the graft are removed. Otherwise, the rose runs the risk of being reborn into a wild dog rose. With the approach of cold weather, it is necessary to cover the roses.
Now there are acclimatized varieties that can do without such care. But growing roses is not easy, and frosts are different. It is important not to miss the time for shelter. If you rush, then the roots can simply rot.
They can also rot or rot from excessively warm wrapping. You should not cover roses with spruce branches, branches - so they risk dying in March. Peat, sawdust, even loose earth is suitable for shelter. It is necessary to make the shelter correctly.
Shoots bend down to the ground one by one or tie the entire bush. Arcs or another frame are placed above the bent rose bush. Both fittings and metal-plastic are suitable. From above they cover with a spunbond, it is possible in several layers, pressing the edges of the material to the soil.
The top of such a frame can be protected from precipitation with polyethylene, securing it with clothespins. The main thing is to disassemble the structure on time (no later than March). To make the dacha happy with the flowering of roses for a long time, varieties with different flowering periods are selected.
The dacha gives extraordinary scope for the realization of the most daring ideas. The process of growing roses is exciting and addictive.
Having mastered the intricacies of growing one variety, gardeners are engaged in a new one. The cottage of real rose lovers eventually becomes a fragrant paradise, where hybrid tea roses populate flower beds and borders, and climbing varieties decorate arches and walls. Growing roses, given the presence of more than 20 thousand varieties, is an endless occupation.
How and when to plant roses in a flower garden in the country
The best time for planting is of course spring and autumn. In spring, it is better to plant roses in the ground from early to mid-April to the end of May, when the soil thaws and warms up to 10-12 degrees.
Choosing a place to plant roses
The flowering, growth and development of roses is significantly affected by the thermal regime of air and soil. Roses grow better at an air temperature of + 15-22 degrees and do not like stagnant air and drafts. It is better not to plant roses in a low place, especially dangerous high level ground water.
It is better to plant roses in a place where they would not be under direct sunlight throughout the day. It is necessary to choose places where the plants are slightly shaded in the midday heat. Roses should not be planted densely - this leads to the development of diseases and problems in care.
Planting roses should be such that it is easy to tie the shoots, bend down and cover the bushes for the winter when necessary. If the land is fertile in your country house, the pits are dug to a depth of roots plus 5-10 centimeters. With a root length of 35 centimeters deep landing pit for roses, it is recommended to make already 45-50 cm and a width of about 50 centimeters.
On new undepleted sites upper layer of earth (approximately on a shovel bayonet) is used to prepare the soil mixture, which is filled with pits during planting. If the earth on the site is clay, the pits are made even deeper - by 60-70 centimeters.
Preparing rose seedlings
Before planting, inspect seedlings, remove broken and weak branches and damaged roots. All roots must be shortened to 30-35 cm. If the seedlings arrive with cut roots, the cuts must be updated.
At spring planting shoots need to be shortened and left for hybrid tea and undersized polyanthus roses 2-3 buds, and for floribunda roses - 3-4 buds. In addition, in tall roses for early flowering, the shoots are shortened by 10-15 cm, in climbing roses Rambler groups - both during spring and autumn planting - up to 30-35 cm.
Ground cover roses do not need pruning, you just need to update the cuts of the roots. Climbing large-flowered roses. park, semi-climbing, scrubs, you need to slightly shorten the roots and remove weak and damaged tops of the shoots.
During autumn planting, the shoots of seedlings of all groups are only slightly shortened. If the seedlings are bought in early spring, and adverse weather conditions do not allow them to be planted in open ground, then they can be stored in the basement or in the refrigerator, where the temperature does not exceed +7 ° C. The root system of all seedlings must be soaked for 2 hours in water before planting.
It is advisable to add "Kornevin" or other root-forming regulators and growth stimulants (humates) there. Dried seedlings affected by improper storage should be soaked for 12 hours.
A closed root system should not be unpacked, you just need to fill the roots with water up to the stem right in the package. Strongly dried seedlings are immersed in water completely with stems. After this procedure, the seedlings look refreshed, the turgor of the stems noticeably increases.
Now roses can be planted in a permanent place.
How to plant roses - a step-by-step instruction for a summer resident
- Seedlings are planted at an air temperature of 0 to +7 °C. Before planting, they are stored in dark cool chalk, once every two weeks the roots are moistened. Planting pits are prepared in advance. The standard depth of the pit is 45-50 cm, the width is 50 cm. On heavy clay soils, pits are dug deeper - 60-70 cm. A mixture of soil and rotted organic matter (manure, compost, humus) is laid at the bottom of the pit. Fertilizers are not placed under the root, trying to avoid their contact with the roots. For better nutrition of the kup, the tips of the root should be cut by 1-2 cm before planting (renew the cut) and soak the root for 2 hours in water, adding Kornevin there. Plant the seedling like this so that the graft is buried 5-10 centimeters below ground level. In the place of penetration into the ground, you must first clean the wax. Compact the soil around the seedling well and water it abundantly to remove the remaining air around the roots and ensure direct contact of the roots with the soil. Cover the seedling with moist soil almost completely for 2 weeks, making a small mound out of the earth. After 2 weeks, when the rose has taken root, the ground can be removed. Now cut the planted rose according to the recommendations for this species or variety.
Planting roses (click on photo to enlarge)
Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - with your own hands"
We grow roses
Rose, despite its royal beauty, the plant is quite unpretentious. Just water and fertilize on time. Yes, so that the sun is ... In order for the plant to grow without problems and does not require constant fuss around it, you should start by choosing a quality seedling.
Numerous nurseries and private traders offer a huge range of planting material of various colors and varieties. Own-rooted roses are offered, grown from cuttings, or grafted onto wild roses.
Own-rooted plants are more resistant to drying out or cold, they tolerate transplanting more easily and cope with diseases. When buying a seedling with an open root system, be sure to ask the seller to make cuts on the main roots of the plant to check if it is alive. It is better to plant roses in late autumn so that they form a root system during the winter and are ready for budding.
Roses planted in spring should not be allowed to bloom the first year, give them the opportunity to strengthen the root and form a bush. The purchased plant should be soaked for a day in a clay mash or root.
This is important to maintain the plant while getting used to the soil, to saturate it with moisture. A seedling is placed in a pre-prepared and spilled hole on a small hump. The root system is cracking down.
It is better to deepen the root neck of grafted plants by 3-5 centimeters. This will allow the variety to recover if its aerial part freezes in winter.
Having covered the roots with earth, it is necessary to water well so that the earth fills all the voids between the roots. A rose is a very sun-loving plant. IN last resort- she will allow herself to bloom in a site where the sun appears only before lunch.
In the shade, the plant may not produce buds or it will not bloom much. It is advisable to plant roses of a light color or from the group of so-called blue roses in partial shade, under direct rays their color quickly fades and loses all attractiveness. A rose is a large “water drink”.
But her love for water, like that of a camel, is rare, but apt. You should not water the plant daily, it is better two or three times a week in a bucket under a bush. She also does not like compacted or overgrown with weeds.
Weeding saturates the soil with oxygen, which this beauty really likes. The most annoying plant pest is aphids. She covers the young shoots of branches and buds, feeds on their juices. If you do not fight aphids, then the shoots die, flowering will not occur.
There are special insecticides to deal with them, but if there are not very many rose bushes, it is better to spray the plants. soapy water. Aphids especially dislike liquid soap. Rose bushes need to be fertilized every two weeks until mid-July with nitrogen fertilizers, after potash and phosphorus.
During the budding period, the plant should be pampered with a full complex mineral fertilizers with micronutrients. Fertilizer is applied only to moist soil.
For faster and more abundant re-blooming, dry buds must be removed from the bush, cutting off the stem before the first five-leaf leaf. By winter, after flowering, the rose is cut off. This is necessary for a better winter.
In the spring, such a rose will grow stronger, give a denser growth. This rule does not apply to climbing roses, their shoots are not shortened, but only old and damaged ones are removed. Pruning 30-35 centimeters above the ground is considered optimal.
If the plant has not shed all the foliage by the first frost, it must be removed on its own. For the winter, the rose is covered with soil or sand at the base to preserve the roots. Before sheltering, plants should be treated for fungus.
Cover roses at the first slight frost and only if the stems are dry. Climbing plants bend down to the ground and also take cover. You do not need to put them on the ground to avoid the stems from damping.
You can not cover roses with organic matter - leaves or grass. Over the winter, it will rot and ruin the plants.
Growing roses
Planting a Rose: The Right Action
The best time for planting roses is undoubtedly autumn, but so that at least 2-3 weeks remain before the onset of winter, here they take root already in the fall, winter well in early spring, begin to grow, and have time to get stronger and gain color before the onset of heat. Before planting roses, you need to carefully examine them and remove broken shoots, leaving 3-5 buds in total.
Immerse the seedlings that we cut into a solution of clay and humus (1 to 1), now they will take root better and the formation of roots will go faster. Cut rose seedlings to the root neck are immersed in a solution composed of clay and humus. We prune before planting. 5 kg of humus, 20 grams of nitrogen and 16 grams of potash and phosphorus fertilizers are introduced into the hole and everything is thoroughly mixed with the ground. Hole for planting roses 30-40 cm.
In total, not pits are dripped separately, but a continuous trench is made, which has a depth and width of 40 cm. Now planting follows, from which it follows that planting in the fall is better. Submissions are accepted.
Do you dream of turning your garden into a wonderful cozy corner that will invariably delight your guests and passers-by? Climbing roses will help to realize cherished dreams - beautiful flowers widely used in ornamental gardening. With the help of climbing roses, you can cover up unsightly buildings, decorate the facade of a house, or make a spectacular flower arch above the entrance. choose suitable varieties and decorate the plot with the help of climbing roses as your fantasy tells you!
Classification of climbing climbing roses
Climbing roses, the varieties of which are very diverse, resemble in appearance: the same lush flowers various colors against a background of dense green foliage and a large number of delicate buds. Only climbing roses require support, which they quickly braid. Although most varieties of climbing roses can bloom only once a season, they will delight you with their beauty until late autumn, since the formation of shoots occurs continuously.
Climbing roses, the varieties of which are very diverse, resemble in appearance spray roses
The internal classification of such a large garden group is difficult. As a rule, the following subgroups of varieties of climbing roses are distinguished:
- Vikhuriana,
- Multiflora,
- Climing (climbing),
- Kordesa,
- Lambert,
- Banks.
Video about the reproduction and care of climbing roses
The listed subgroups are conditionally divided into three groups: semi-climbing roses (height 1.5-3 m), climbing (height 3-5 m), climbing (height 5-15 m).
Varieties look very impressive again blooming roses subgroups of Claimings. Large single flowers of various shades in a half-blown state have an elegant oblong glass shape. Rigid erect stems, reaching a height of six meters, do not need additional support. IN middle lane In Russia, climbing roses of the Climing subgroup are not very common due to the fact that it is difficult to remove them from their support and cover them for the winter, although they are quite resistant to frost.
Some varieties of Cordes and Lambert roses are considered ideal for landscaping due to their continuous abundant flowering, optimal height two and a half meters and resistance to fungal diseases.
It is worth noting that the aesthetic appeal of climbing roses depends not only on the color of the flowers and lush flowering, but also on the resistance of foliage to various fungal diseases. Therefore, when choosing varieties, pay special attention to this important property.
Some varieties of Cordes and Lambert roses are considered ideal for landscaping.
The most popular varieties of climbing roses
Vihuriana
Of the domestic varieties, the following are common: white roses "Aelita" with a greenish tint; pale pink "Pink News" with corrugated leaves; fiery red "Red Lighthouse" with an orange tint; "Girl's Dreams" coral shade with lush inflorescences (up to 30 flowers). Foreign varieties: bright red roses "Excelsa" with very abundant flowering; "New Dawn" salmon color, with a slight apple flavor; white "Glen Dale" with lemon yellow buds "; Alberic Barbier "with creamy white double flowers and re-blooming in early autumn.
Multiflora
Common varieties: domestic disease-resistant "Snow White" with white flowers; intense pink "General Tetar" with a specific smell; soft pink "Melita" with light green foliage; purple roses "Moselle"; cherry-raspberry "Grabenka Khotkov", creamy white "Grousse-en-Zabern".
Rose varieties "Multiflora"
climbing
Popular varieties of climbing climbing roses: red with an orange tint roses "Orange Triumph"; light yellow with border Pink colour along the edge of Gloria Day; terry intense pink "Cecilia Brunner" with a strong aroma; creamy white with a golden halo in the middle of the "City of York".
Kordesa
There are few varieties of Kordes roses known in Russia: raspberry-red are not double roses'Dortmund' with a white center, continuously blooming and disease resistant; bright red roses "Hamburger Phoenix" with white stripes; rich red "Flammentants" with early and abundant flowering.
Lambert
The most popular varieties are: very abundantly blooming Schwerin roses with bright red flowers and light-colored foliage; semi-double bright red roses "Munich" single and in inflorescences; dark red 'New Dawn Rouge' with matte dark green foliage.
rose lambert
Banks
The main varieties of Banks roses: graceful shields of white double flowers "Alba Plena"; creamy yellow "Lutea Plena", collected in thick fragrant shields; "Banksia hybrid" with densely double single white flowers with a rich aroma.
Where is the best place to plant climbing roses?
When growing climbing roses, remember that they are very fond of sunlight Therefore, they should be planted where the sun shines most of the day.
In most cases, climbing roses provide support structure in the form of a trellis lattice, horizontal wooden slats etc. Supports allow shoots to grow upward without drooping under the weight of many flowers. Wooden supports also help roses survive the winter better.
Climbing roses can also be grown without supports, then dense flowering thickets up to one meter high are obtained from them - perfect option to create a beautiful hedge. Unusual decorative effect can be achieved by letting climbing roses through coniferous or dried trees - a dry trunk will be completely covered with green foliage.
Video about proper fit and caring for a climbing rose
Best of all, the beauty of climbing roses wrapping around a gazebo or terrace is emphasized by a neatly trimmed green lawn.
If you plan to decorate the facade of the house with climbing roses, try to choose a variety so that the flowers stand out against the walls, and do not merge with them. And of course, climbing plants should harmoniously fit into the overall architectural appearance of your home. Well-chosen climbing roses will help create the perfect ensemble.
Ecology of life. Manor: Gardeners have always been especially admired by the climbing rose with its long branches strewn with luxurious flowers. This is a real find for the landscape designer, which allows you to create blooming arches, columns, gazebos, fences.
Climbing rose with its long branches strewn with luxurious flowers has always been especially admired by gardeners. This is a real find for a landscape designer, which allows you to create flowering arches, columns, arbors, fences.
Despite the huge whips, reaching 5-6 m in length, all varieties of climbing roses are shrubs. One would think that in this case, planting and caring for them is similar to other types of roses, but everything is not so simple. Long whips impose special obligations on the owner of such luxury. Therefore, in order to achieve real aesthetics from a climbing rose, you need to know how to properly care for it.
Planting time: spring or autumn?
All types of "queen of flowers" are considered rather capricious, and climbing roses are no exception, care for which must be thought through to the smallest detail. And you need to start with the right choice of landing time. It is best to time this event for the May warm days.
In this case, you will be sure that before winter the plants will have time to get stronger and will not die during the cold weather. Climbing rose bushes with dormant buds can be planted before the buds begin to bloom on the trees, as soon as the soil warms up to 10-12 °. In the event that you bought a seedling in a greenhouse (that is, with leaves), then it is necessary to plant it only after the buds open on the trees.
You can also plant bushes in August-September, but then there is always a risk of plant death if it does not have time to properly take root before the onset of frost.
Place to land
The site for planting a climbing rose should be well lit in the morning. This is important, since it is the warm morning sun that will dry the dew on the leaves and give no chance for fungal diseases. A completely open area is not as desirable, as midday sunlight can cause the delicate petals to “burn out” and even the entire plant to dry out.
Be sure to pay attention to the fact that the chosen place is protected from cold north and northeast winds, and also not located on the corner of the building, where drafts are constantly walking - the gentle climbing rose does not like this, its development will inevitably be oppressed.
Soil for climbing roses: what to consider?
Climbing rose develops normally only on permeable soils. This means that rain (or irrigation) water must freely pass deep into the earth and not linger in the root zone. Otherwise, rotting of the root system and death of the plant from lack of nutrition are inevitable.
Therefore, if ground water on your site are too close to the surface of the earth, you should plant roses only on hills. However, if this is not possible, you can do it differently: dig a hole to a depth that does not reach the groundwater level, and then concrete the bottom or put a large flat stone there.
Such a precautionary measure will not allow groundwater to "get" to the root zone and damage them, in addition, the taproots will not deepen and their bulk, as they grow, will not be located vertically, but horizontally. After that, a sufficient layer of fertile soil is poured onto the stone or concrete, where the plant is subsequently planted.
Climbing roses grow best on fertile loam - they are water and breathable enough to provide good nutrition to the root system. Heavy clay and light sandy soil are not suitable for growing roses. At the same time, if such soil is on your site, you should not despair.
You can improve the situation by adding sand to clay soils, and dilute sandy soils with clay. This will adjust the permeability of the soil to air and water, but will not add fertility to the soil. To improve this indicator, you should add humus or humus to the soil.
Distance between climbing roses
When planting, it is necessary to ensure a distance between roses equal to 0.5 - 1 m in a row and 1-2 m between rows. In the event that planting is carried out near the gazebo or the wall of the house, then the distance between the plant and the blind area should be at least 0.35 - 0.5 m.
You can divide the garden into several zones using trellises lined with climbing roses on both sides. Plants are planted in a checkerboard pattern so as not to obscure each other. At the same time, the distance between them is maintained at 0.5 - 1 m, as in the usual landing pattern. Such a screen will be decorative all summer, even when the climbing rose has faded.
Preparing a seedling for planting
Before you start planting, the rose bush must be carefully inspected and all broken, crushed and rotten parts of the root system must be removed. Sections for disinfection are powdered with crushed charcoal to prevent rotting of the resulting wounds. Next, it is desirable to dip the roots into a mixture-talker, consisting of clay mixed with fresh mullein (10%) and phosphorobacterin. 3 tablets of phosphorobacterin are preliminarily dissolved in 0.5 l of water, and then this composition is poured into 9.5 l of mash. Mullein can be replaced with heteroauxin by adding 1 tablet to 10 liters of mash.
During spring planting, seedlings of any variety of climbing roses are pruned. At the same time, two developed buds are left on strong shoots, and one on weak ones. If planting takes place in the fall, then pruning is still done in the spring, after being removed from the bushes winter shelter.
Planting and caring for a young seedling
To begin with, they dig a hole, the dimensions of which should ensure free placement of the roots, and the root neck must be deepened by at least 10 cm. the temperature does not fall below -2 degrees. Also, the deepening of the root neck of self-rooted climbing roses will contribute to the formation of a large number of additional roots.
A mound of fertile soil is poured into the hole, around which the roots are evenly spread and covered, leaving no voids if possible. After filling the hole with earth, it is rammed with feet. Own-rooted climbing roses are watered with a mixture of phosphorobacterin and heteroauxin for better survival.
During the growing season, the weaving rose needs regular watering, top dressing, removal of weeds, dried flowers and weak branches.
Already after the removal of the winter shelter with the onset of spring heat, pruning is carried out, last year's plant residues are removed, roses are sprayed with pesticides, the soil around the plant is loosened, and the necessary fertilizers are applied.
Proper pruning climbing rose
Climbing roses need proper pruning, the purpose of which is to form, get a long and abundant flowering, crown health improvement. Pruning also helps to get a solid cover of the plant with new shoots.
Pruning is carried out after the plant has completely faded, that is, at the end of summer. First of all, diseased and damaged branches are cut out. Strong annual shoots are not removed. Old shoots are removed if new replacement shoots have appeared on the branch. That is, pruning is done in such a way that instead of old shoots new, annual ones come. Biennial shoots are not pruned - it is on them that the bulk of the flowers will be concentrated next summer.
garter of climbing roses
When forming a climbing rose, one should not strive for all the main branches to grow upwards. It may happen that all the flowers and leaves are "relocated" to the upper part of the plant, and this will not add to its aesthetics.
Therefore, in order to avoid such a nuisance, you need to try to direct the main branches horizontally. Then they will soon appear vertical side shoots growing up. A similar principle of forming a weaving rose will perfectly mask a trellis or wall, as well as provide luxurious and long flowering.
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Climbing rose care in winter
In winter, any roses, including climbing ones, require shelter. At the same time, it is important to know that there should be air space between the shelter (film, roofing felt, spruce branches) and the plant. If possible, the lashes of roses are removed from the support, rotten, diseased shoots are removed, as well as all leaves.
After that, the branches are wrapped with twine and fastened to the ground with wooden or metal studs. From above, the whips are covered with roofing felt, film, leaves or spruce branches. You can also cover a climbing rose right on a support, for example, if it wraps around an arch. In this case, at first, the support is tied with burlap, roofing paper or film, and then covered with spruce branches. published
climbing roses- these are types of wild rose and some varieties garden roses with long branching shoots. All of them are representatives of the genus Rosehip and occupy one of the leading places in vertical gardening pavilions, walls and buildings, perfectly combined with architectural forms of large and small sizes. Climbing roses are indispensable for creating such decorative garden structures as pyramids, columns, garlands, arbors and arches. They look great in compositions with other flowers and plants, so they are as popular as any spray or indoor rose.
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Planting and caring for climbing roses (in brief)
- Landing: from the last ten days of September to mid-October or from mid-April to the end of May.
- Bloom: from late spring to late autumn.
- Lighting: bright light in the first half of the day, diffused light or partial shade in the second.
- The soil: optimal - moisture-permeable fertile loam with deep groundwater.
- Watering: once every 7-10 days, spending 1-2 buckets of water on each bush.
- Top dressing: bushes of the first year are fed only in August with potash fertilizer, bushes of the second year - with full mineral and organic fertilizers alternately, making 5 top dressings per season, and from the third year of life, roses are fed in the same mode, but exclusively with organic matter. During flowering, roses do not fertilize.
- Garter: as a support, you can use a fence, a wall of a house, a dry tree or special structures - lattices, arches and arcs made of metal rods. The shoots are tied to the support with twine.
- Pruning: spring and autumn.
- Reproduction: seeds, layering, cuttings and grafting.
- Pests: aphids, spider mites, thrips, rose sawflies, leafworms, cicadas.
- Diseases: powdery mildew, bacterial cancer, coniothyrium, gray rot, black spotting.
Read more about growing climbing roses below.
Climbing roses - description
Give general description climbing roses, the task is too complicated due to their huge variety, so we suggest that you first familiarize yourself with the classification of climbing roses adopted in international flower growing practice.
The first group of climbing roses, the so-called climbing roses, or rambler roses (Rambler) are plants with long creeping or arcuate flexible bright green spiked stems up to five meters long or more. The leaves of the Rambler climbing rose are leathery, shiny and small. Flowers - weakly scented, simple, semi-double or double, up to 2.5 cm in diameter - are collected in inflorescences and are located along the entire length of the shoot. Abundant flowering of climbing roses of this group lasts a little more than a month in the first half of summer. Most varieties are hardy and winter well under light cover. The plants of the Rambler group originated from such species as the Vihura rose and the multiflora rose (multiflora).
As a result of crossing a group of rambler roses with tea, hybrid-tea, remontant roses and floribunda rose, a group of climbing roses was formed with shoots up to four meters long, which were called climbing - Climber, or climbing large-flowered roses- climbers. Roses of this group bloom profusely big flowers- from 4 cm in diameter or more - collected in small loose inflorescences, many varieties bloom twice per season. The shape of the flowers resemble tea-hybrid roses. Plants of this group are relatively winter-hardy and are almost not affected by powdery mildew.
The third group, Climbing, was formed by mutating large-flowered spray roses - hybrid tea, grandiflora and floribunda. Claimings differ from producing species only in stronger growth, later fruiting and even more large flowers- from four to eleven centimeters in diameter, which grow singly or in small inflorescences. Many varieties of climings bloom repeatedly. Roses of this group are grown only in the southern regions of the temperate zone with mild warm winters.
Planting climbing roses
When and where to plant climbing roses
All types of roses are quite capricious - it is not for nothing that the rose is called the queen of flowers. Climbing roses are no exception - planting and caring for climbing roses must be thought out to the smallest detail, and growing climbing roses should begin with choosing a site. These plants need bright light in the first half of the day so that the sun can dry the dew on the leaves and leave no chance for fungal diseases to settle on roses, however, the midday sun can already cause burns on the leaves and delicate petals of the plant, so in the afternoon, a plot with climbing roses must be protected from direct rays. In addition, the place where climbing roses grow must be protected from the cold north and northeast winds, and the location of the climbing rose on the corner of the building is undesirable because of the drafts that depress the delicate plant. It is best to place climbing roses on the south side of the building, especially since they do not require much space - for planting roses, a fifty-centimeter-wide strip of land is enough, provided that the nearest wall, plant and any other object are no closer than half a meter.
The soil for climbing roses must be permeable, but where groundwater is too close to the surface, roses are planted on specially arranged elevations - the root system of climbing roses sometimes goes two meters deep. To avoid stagnant water in the roots, roses are planted on a site located under a slope, at least minimal. Of all types of soils, loams are most suitable for climbing roses. Too light sandy or heavy clay soils will have to be adapted: sand is added to the clay for digging to the depth of the bayonet of a shovel, and clay is added to the sandy soil, and in order for the soils to become fertile, humus or humus must be added to them along with bone meal as phosphorus fertilizer . It is necessary to prepare a site for a rose in advance - preferably six months or at least a month or two before planting.
As for planting dates, in a temperate climate it is best to plant roses from the last decade of September to mid-October. You can plant roses in the spring - from mid-April to the end of May.
Planting a climbing rose in autumn
Before proceeding to the description of the landing process, it makes sense to talk about what planting material prefer. Both saplings of own-rooted roses and saplings of roses grafted onto wild roses go on sale. What is the difference between them? Grafted roses differ from own-rooted ones in that their root represents one plant, and the shoots represent another, that is, a scion of a varietal climbing rose is grafted onto a wild rose root. Therefore, both planting and caring for a grafted rose, although slightly, differ from planting and caring for a rooted rose. For example, the planting depth of a grafted rose should be such that the grafting site is 10 cm below the surface. A grafted rose planted in this way begins to form roots from the cultural part of the bush, and the roots of the wild rose, losing their purpose, gradually die off. If the grafting site is left above the surface, the plant will be depleted and eventually die, since the cultural part of the seedling is evergreen, and the wild rose is a deciduous plant, and this discrepancy between scion and rootstock will lead to a sad end if planted incorrectly.
Climbing rose seedlings with an open root system should be soaked in water for a day before planting. Then you need to remove the leaves from the shoots, cut off the immature and broken shoots with secateurs, powdering the cuts with crushed charcoal, shorten both the roots and the ground part to 30 cm, remove the buds located below the grafting site from the grafted seedlings so that rose hips do not develop from them. After that, the seedlings are disinfected by immersing in a three percent solution. blue vitriol.
Planting pits for climbing roses are dug 50x50 in size, keeping a distance of at least a meter between them. The top, fertile layer of soil removed from each pit is mixed with half a bucket of manure and part of this mixture is poured into the pits, then the holes are well spilled with water. This should be done a day or two before planting. On the day of planting, prepare a mixture for pre-planting treatment of rose roots. To do this, dissolve three tablets of phosphorobacterin and one tablet of heteroauxin in half a liter of water and pour this solution into nine and a half liters of clay mash. Dip the roots of the seedling into the mash before lowering them into the hole. Pour a mound of a mixture of earth and manure into the bottom of the pit, place a seedling on it, the roots of which are treated with a talker, carefully straighten the roots, cover them with the same mixture of soil and manure and carefully tamp the surface. And remember: the place of grafting a rose grafted onto a wild rose should be at a depth of about ten centimeters underground, and the root collar of a rooted rose should be at least five centimeters. After planting, the rose is watered abundantly, and when the water is absorbed, earth is added to the near-stem circle and the seedling is spudded to a height of at least 20 cm.
Planting a climbing rose in spring
Climbing roses planted in spring are two weeks behind in development compared to roses planted in autumn and require more attention. The shoots of seedlings before planting are shortened to 15-20 cm, and the roots - up to 30 cm. After planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, highly spudded and covered with a film to create greenhouse conditions that contribute to faster survival of seedlings. The film must be lifted daily for several minutes to ventilate the seedlings. It is advisable to gradually increase the ventilation time, since at the same time the seedlings are hardened. When the threat of return frosts has passed, the film is removed, and the site is mulched. If you planted roses after frost in dry, warm weather, mulch the tree trunks with peat or any other suitable material after planting.
Caring for climbing roses in the garden
How to care for a climbing rose
Caring for climbing roses consists in regular watering of the plant, fertilizing, pruning, and fighting possible diseases or pests and in preparation for winter. Due to the nature of the structure, climbing roses need support. Climbing roses are quite drought tolerant, and in in large numbers they do not need water - they are moistened once a week or a decade according to the principle “less is better, but more often”, that is, 1-2 buckets of water are spent on each bush. To prevent the water from spreading, make around trunk circle low earth mound. Two or three days after watering, in order to retain moisture in the soil and provide air access to the roots, the soil is loosened around the bush to a depth of 5-6 cm. soil you will need much less frequently.
Young bushes are not fed until August, since the nutrients contained in the soil have not yet been used up; closer to autumn, a solution of potassium salts is added to the soil to prepare the roses for wintering. It is best to use infusion for these purposes. wood ash. When feeding the bushes of the second year of life, organic fertilizers alternate with mineral ones, and from the third year they switch exclusively to organic top dressing, which can be used as a solution of one liter of manure and a glass of wood ash in a bucket of water. Manure can be replaced with any other organic fertilizer. During the growing season, it is necessary to make at least five dressings. Do not apply fertilizer during flowering.
Support for climbing roses
The variety of supports for climbing roses is amazing: you can use an old dry tree, a lattice or an arch made of metal, wood or polymers, as well as metal rods curved in an arc as a support. However, no other plant will decorate a featureless wall or an unattractive building like climbing roses planted no closer than half a meter from the wall. Place a lattice or vertical guides on the wall, to which you will tie growing and flowering shoots, and an unremarkable structure will be transformed. However, you should be aware that on horizontally arranged lashes, flowers appear along their entire length, and on vertically fixed ones, only in their upper part.
Plastic twine is used as a fastening material, and in no case do they resort to using wire, coming up with all sorts of tricks, for example, wrapping the wire with paper or cloth. The stems are firmly attached to the support, nevertheless trying to ensure that the twine does not injure the stem. Inspect the supports regularly, because under the weight of the branches or from the wind they sometimes break, and this can lead to severe damage to the plant. It is necessary to dig in the supporting structure no closer than 30-50 cm from the bush.
Transplanting climbing roses
An adult plant is usually transplanted only for the sake of saving it, if time has shown that the place for the rose has been chosen unsuccessfully. Climbing roses are transplanted in autumn - in September or early October, no later than so that the plant has time to take root in a new place before winter. Sometimes transplantation is carried out in the spring, before the awakening of the kidneys. Before transplanting, the roses are removed from the support, all young shoots are kept from the ramblers, but their tops are pinched at the end of August to speed up the lignification of the shoots, and shoots older than two years are removed. In climbers and climbings, all long shoots are shortened by half. Then the bushes are carefully dug in a circle, stepping back from the center at a distance equal to two bayonets of a shovel. You need to dig deep, trying to keep the entire root system intact. After digging up the plant, shake off the ground from its roots, cut off the ragged and shaggy ends of the roots with a secateurs and transplant the plant into a pre-prepared hole, straightening the roots when planting so that they do not bend. After filling the hole with potting soil, tamp the surface down and water generously. After a few days, when the soil settles, add more earth mix to level the surface of the area, and do not forget to plant the plant high.
Pests and diseases of climbing roses
From insects, climbing roses are bothered by aphids and spider mites. If the aphid infestation of the rose is not total, try to deal with pests with folk remedies without resorting to chemical preparations. You can remove the aphids mechanically: hold the bud, leaf or stem with your gloved hands and remove the aphids. This method is good if the aphid has just appeared, but if it has already settled down on your rose and has begun to breed, grate the soap, fill it with water, let the solution brew and, when the soap has dissolved, strain the solution and spray roses with it. If this measure fails, buy an aphid insecticide labeled "for roses and vines" at the store and treat the rose with it, choosing a quiet, calm evening for this. As for spider mites, they appear on plants only during the dry, hot period, if you chronically forget to water them. Ticks settle on the underside of the leaves, feed on their juice, entangling the leaves with cobwebs. The leaves of the affected plant acquire a silver tint. In the fight against spider mite well proven such folk remedies, as infusions of yarrow, wormwood, tobacco or shag, after treatment with which on the third day, from 80 to 100% of insects die. An infusion of wormwood is made like this: half a kilogram of fresh wormwood is placed in a wooden bowl, poured with ten liters cold water and leave for two weeks for fermentation, then filter the sourdough, dilute with water in a ratio of 1:10 and treat the rose and the soil around it with the composition. If the situation requires urgent measures, treatment of the plant with Fitoverm will help, which, if necessary, can be repeated after two weeks. The method of application and dosage are indicated in the instructions for use of the drug.
Roses also have other pests - rose sawfly, cicada, leafworm, thrips, but if you follow the conditions of the plant's agricultural technology, they will not become a problem for you. As a preventive measure, you can plant marigolds around the rose - this neighborhood will save the rose from many troubles. In addition, develop the habit of spring and autumn preventive spraying of roses with Bordeaux liquid.
Of the diseases for roses, the most dangerous are coniothyrium, bacterial cancer, powdery mildew, gray rot and black spot.
bacterial cancer it manifests itself as tuberculous soft growths of various sizes, hardening and darkening with decomposition over time. The rose dries up and dies. There is no cure for bacterial cancer. Carefully inspect the planting material before buying, and before planting, disinfect the roots of the seedlings for two to three minutes in a three percent solution of copper sulphate. If you find signs of a disease on an adult bush, immediately remove the suspicious parts of the plant and treat the wounds with a solution of copper sulphate of the same consistency.
Coniothyrium - a fungal disease, the so-called cancer or bark burn. It is found in the spring, when the shelter is removed from the roses: red-brown spots appear on the bark, gradually turning black and turning into rings around the shoot. Such shoots should be cut off immediately, capturing some of the healthy tissue, and burned to avoid infecting other plants. To avoid the disease, nitrogen should be stopped before wintering, replacing it with potash fertilizers, which strengthen plant tissues. In addition, during thaws, you need to air the roses under cover.
powdery mildew looks like a whitish coating on the ground parts of the plant, eventually acquiring a brown tint. Contributes to disease high humidity air and sudden temperature fluctuations, excess nitrogen in the soil and improper watering. All affected parts of the plant are cut out and burned, after which the rose is treated with a three percent solution of iron or a two percent solution of copper sulphate.
black spot manifested by the appearance on the leaves of dark red-brown spots in a yellow rim, which merge with the development of the disease, causing premature leaf fall. Can prevent disease autumn dressing roses with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers at the root, as well as a three-stage treatment of the bush and the ground around it with a three percent solution of Bordeaux mixture or iron sulfate at weekly intervals.
Gray rot destroys stems, shoots, buds and leaves of climbing roses, sharply reduces their decorative effect, reducing the intensity of flowering. If the disease has taken effect, the plant will have to be dug up and destroyed, but if you find it at the very beginning, you can destroy the fungal infection by treating the bush with a solution of 100 g of Bordeaux liquid in a bucket of water. If it is not possible to defeat the disease at once, the treatment can be repeated three more times at weekly intervals.
Sometimes, with absolute and obvious health, a climbing rose does not bloom, and you study rose diseases and their symptoms with bewilderment, but you cannot understand what is the reason. Sometimes the fact is that you bought an unsuccessful variety - weakly flowering, and besides, the location or composition of the soil was not what the rose required. Or maybe the fact is that last year's shoots did not survive the winter well. Analyze all the information about climbing roses, and you will definitely find the reason.
Pruning climbing roses
When to prune climbing roses
Pruning climbing roses is necessary to form a crown, stimulate abundant flowering throughout the height of the bush and to maintain the decorativeness of a plant that adorns a particular object. Proper pruning can ensure that roses bloom almost continuously throughout the growing season. Special attention should be given to vegetative shoots, since the flowering of the bush mainly occurs on the last year's shoots. Pruning is carried out in spring and autumn. At the beginning of the growing season, dead shoots and frostbite are removed from climbing roses of any group, and the ends of the shoots are cut off to a strong outer bud. Subsequent pruning depends on how many times your rose blooms during the growing season - once or more.
How to prune climbing roses
Roses that bloom once a season form flowers on the last year's shoots. Instead of faded (basal) shoots, from three to ten recovery shoots are formed, which will bloom next year, so the basal shoots after flowering must be cut at the root, and do this better in autumn, when preparing the plant for winter. In re-blooming roses, flowering branches of different orders are formed on the main shoots for three years - from two to five. The flowering of these shoots weakens by the fifth year, so the main shoots in early spring should be cut to the ground after the fourth year of life. Repeat-flowering bushes should have one to three annual recovery shoots and three to seven main flowering shoots. However most of climbing roses blooms on overwintered shoots, from which only tops with underdeveloped buds are removed in spring.
Particular attention should be paid to young grafted roses planted in the current or last year: until the cultivated graft acquires its own root system, the roots of the wild rose rootstock will produce abundant shoots that must be removed immediately. In a year or two, when the wild rose root dies, the shoots will already give the roots of the scion.
Reproduction of climbing roses
How to propagate climbing roses
Climbing roses are propagated by seeds, as well as layering, cuttings and grafting. The easiest way to propagate a rose is by layering, and propagation by cuttings gives good results. As for seed propagation, it is better to buy seed for this purpose in a store, since seeds collected from roses growing in the garden do not retain the varietal characteristics of the parent plant, so it is not known what kind of rose will grow from them. However, for the sake of the experiment, it is worth trying: after all, what are you risking?
Growing climbing roses from seeds
Buy from a store or collect the seeds of roses growing in your garden, put them in a sieve and dip them in a bowl of hydrogen peroxide for half an hour - this measure helps to disinfect the seeds and prevents mold during the subsequent stratification of the seed. Then spread the seeds on cotton pads moistened with hydrogen peroxide and cover with the same peroxide-soaked disks on top, place these “sandwiches” in individual plastic bags, write the date and name of the variety on them, put them in a container and put them in the vegetable section of the refrigerator. From time to time check the condition of the seeds, and if you notice mold, soak them again in peroxide, change the disks to new ones soaked in the same composition, and put them in the refrigerator again. After one and a half to two months, transfer the germinated seeds to individual peat tablets or pots, mulching the surface with a thin layer of perlite to avoid black leg infection. Seedlings will need ten hours of daylight and watering as the soil dries. With the normal development of seedlings, the first buds will appear within two months after planting the seeds in pots, and after another month and a half, the first flowers will open. Continue caring for seedlings, feed them with a weak solution complex fertilizer, and in the spring plant it in open ground and take care of it like an adult plant.
Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings
The easiest to implement, since in most cases this method gives one hundred percent result. You can cut cuttings from flowering or flowering shoots from mid-June to early August. The segment must have at least two internodes. The lower cut of the cutting is made under the kidney at an angle of 45º, the upper cut is straight, as far as possible from the kidney. The lower leaves are removed from the cutting, the upper ones are shortened by half. The stalk is stuck to a depth of 1 cm in a pot of sand or a mixture of sand and soil, covered glass jar or plastic bottle and placed in a bright place, protected from direct sunlight. Water the soil in a pot without removing the banks. It is only necessary to treat the lower cut of the cutting with a root-forming agent before planting if you are dealing with a variety that does not root well, but in most cases, rooting of the cuttings is easy.
Reproduction of climbing roses by layering
The shoot planned by you in the spring is cut under the buds, placed in a dug groove 10-15 cm wide and approximately the same depth, at the bottom of which a layer of humus is laid, sprinkled with a layer of earth, the layers are fixed in several places and covered with soil so that the top of the layer remains above the area surface. When watering the bush, do not forget to water the dug layers. A year later, next spring, separate the layers from mother plant and move it to a new location.
Grafting climbing roses
Eye grafting cultivated rose on the root of the wild rose is called budding. This procedure is carried out from the end of July to the end of August. Rose hips are watered abundantly before grafting, then a T-shaped incision is made on the root neck of the stock, the bark is hooked and slightly pulled away from the wood. The peephole is cut off from the handle of a cultivated rose along with the adjacent bark and a layer of wood, the peephole is tightly inserted into the T-shaped incision and the grafting site is tightly wrapped with an occlusion film. After that, the wild rose is spudded above the vaccination site by at least 5 cm, after two weeks the bandage can be loosened, and in the spring of next year the film is removed completely.
Climbing roses after flowering
Climbing roses have faded - what to do?
In early autumn, climbing rose bushes begin to gradually prepare for winter. From the end of August, they stop watering them, loosening the soil around them, replacing nitrogen in top dressing with potassium. The tops of unripened shoots are cut off. All climbing roses hibernate under cover, but for this they must first be removed from the support and laid on the ground. A young bush can be laid easily, but bending an old, powerful climbing rose to the ground is not a matter of one day, you may need a whole week for this, and the process must take place at a positive temperature, because even with a light frost the stems become brittle and break. Learn it.
How to cover climbing roses for the winter
They cover the rose when the temperature drops to -5 ºC, you should not do this before, because the rose will not have time to harden, besides, it can rot or start growing, being under cover without air for too long. Climbing roses need to be covered in dry, calm weather. Remove the roses from the support, clean the leaves from the branches, cut off the damaged shoots, tie the lashes with a rope and carefully lay them on a bed of spruce branches or dry leaves (never put roses on bare ground!). Press or pin the roses to the ground, cover them with spruce branches, dry leaves or dry grass from above, cover the base of the bush with sand or earth, then cover the lying roses plastic wrap, lutrasil, roofing material or some other waterproof material so that there is an air gap between the rose and the film.
Climbing roses in winter
During the winter thaws in clear, dry weather, open the film for a short time, letting the roses breathe in the winter air - this will do them good. However, do not remove spruce branches or leaves! As soon as signs of spring appear, remove the film - being under cover all winter without fresh air, roses can get sick. Do not be afraid that they may freeze - you did not forget to cover them with spruce branches.
Varieties of climbing roses
We offer you an acquaintance with some popular varieties of climbing roses, which we have divided into groups for convenience. So:
Varieties of small-flowered climbing roses (ramblers)
- Bobby James- a vigorous variety recognized throughout the world up to 8 m in height with a crown width of up to 3 m, with bright green leaves, which are almost invisible during flowering due to the abundance of white-cream flowers with a musky aroma with a diameter of 4-5 cm. Needs in a large space and strong supports. The variety is frost-resistant. If you asked if this climbing rose is suitable for the Moscow region, any professional would answer you in the affirmative;
- Ramblin Rector- a variety with pale green beautiful leaves, the lashes of which reach a length of five meters, small semi-double flowers in the amount of up to forty pieces are collected in large racemose inflorescences of a creamy shade, which fades to white in the bright sun. This rose can be grown as a shrub;
- Super Excelsa- up to two meters high and wide, double bright crimson flowers are collected in brushes. Flowering is permanent - until the end of summer, but the raspberry color fades in the sun. Winter hardy and resistant to powdery mildew.
Varieties of large-flowered climbing roses (climers and climings)
- Elf- a relatively new variety, an upright bush, vigorous, reaching a height of two and a half meters, and a width of one and a half meters. White with greenery, densely double flowers with a diameter of up to 14 cm exude a fruity aroma. Blooms until the end of summer. Disease resistant;
- Santana- bush up to 4 m tall with carved dark green foliage and velvety bright red semi-double flowers with a diameter of 8-10 cm. Repeated flowering. Excellent winter hardiness and disease resistance;
- Polka- a bush of this variety reaches a height of two or more meters, its leaves are shiny, dark green, double apricot-colored flowers, up to 12 cm in diameter. It blooms two or three times during the summer. Resistant to powdery mildew. Requires good shelter for the winter;
- indigoletta- a vigorous bush up to three meters high, up to one and a half meters in girth, with dark green dense leaves. An unusually beautiful shade of lilac double flowers with a diameter of up to 10 cm are collected in inflorescences. This variety is characterized by vigorous growth, pleasant aroma, repeated flowering during the growing season and relative disease resistance.
We offer you an acquaintance with another group of climbing roses - these are the so-called Kordes hybrids, which, for unknown reasons, are not separated into a separate group, but are included in the group of ramblers:
- Lagoon- fragrant tall rose, reaching a height of three meters and one meter in girth. Terry dark pink flowers up to 10 cm in diameter are collected in brushes. Blooms twice during the summer. Resistant to blackleg and powdery mildew;
- Golden Gate- a powerful bush with a large number of shoots, reaching a height of three and a half meters. Golden-yellow semi-double flowers up to 10 cm in diameter, exuding a strong fruity aroma, collected in a brush. Blooms twice a season;
- Sympathy- a vigorous branchy shrub up to three meters high and up to two wide. Luxurious shade of bright red flowers are collected in small inflorescences. It blooms several times during the season, but the first bloom is the most abundant. Frost-resistant, intensively growing, disease-resistant variety, not afraid of rain or wind.
