Insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside. Useful tips: how best to insulate the bath. What is the best way to insulate a bath?

In order for a high temperature to be present in the bath for the longest possible time, and the costs of maintaining it to be minimal, you need to think about high-quality insulation of the building. Thanks to the thermal insulation layer, the interior of the bath will quickly heat up and cool down slowly, and the service life of the building will increase significantly. We offer to figure out how to properly insulate the walls in the bath from the inside and outside.

Bath insulation materials

When deciding how to insulate the walls in a bath, you will definitely encounter the problem of choosing a heater. When purchasing a heat insulator, it is necessary to take into account it specifications and standard sizes, environmental friendliness and fire safety.

Types of thermal insulation materials:

• Mineral (basalt) wool. The most popular type of insulator that promotes best conservation heat in the bath. A new generation of mineral wool insulation is produced using not formaldehyde, but chemically neutral acrylic that does not emit toxic substances when heated.
• Peat blocks filled with sawdust, straw. Characterized by bacterial static, incombustibility, hygroscopicity.
• Foam glass. Environmentally friendly insulation that perfectly retains its operational properties over time, but heavy in weight and costly.
• Cork mats. They do not absorb moisture, do not deform, retain heat well.
• Polyurethane foam boards. Aluminum coated on both sides. They are used for warming Finnish baths.
• Expanded polystyrene, polystyrene. It is used as an insulator for warming the walls of the bath from the outside, but not from the inside, because. its destruction occurs at +60 degrees, and at the same time, carcinogens are released.
• Natural heaters. Felt, wool, reeds, sawdust, moss, flax, straw, hemp - materials that have been used for centuries to insulate Russian baths. It is not recommended to use it without special treatment, in order to avoid rotting and damage by rodents.

How to perform insulation

The thermal insulation of the walls of the bath is carried out in a complex manner, necessarily insulating the building from the inside, and in some cases both from the outside and from the inside. Log and log baths, as a rule, they do not insulate from the outside, but from the inside - only the steam room and the washing room. Baths made of bricks and foam blocks - materials with high thermal conductivity, must be insulated from the outside to ensure the necessary temperature conditions inside the building. For external insulation of the bath, first they mount the crate, fix the thermal insulation, the wind and moisture protective membrane, and at the final stage, the outer cladding.

Stages of warming the walls of the bath from the inside

• Cleaning, sealing and puttying cracks in the base base. The walls of the bath from a log house or timber are caulked with jute or linen insulation, minor defects in brick and foam concrete surfaces are corrected with sealants.
• Antiseptic treatment, preventing the spread of pathogenic microorganisms, and flame retardants that reduce the likelihood of fire.
• Installation of a wooden crate for the installation of a heat insulator. The width of the crate step is selected based on the width of the insulation (1 cm less), and the thickness of the bars - based on its thickness.
• Heater installation. By cutting the mineral wool roll into strips of the required width or by using plates of a certain size, you can ideally install the material in the wooden frame of the bath - in the gap between the rails of the crate.

• Installation of vapor barrier. The optimal material for quick warming of the bath with your own hands is a rolled or slab mineral wool heat insulator with a foil layer. It's like "2 in 1" - a material that can significantly reduce installation time and acts as an effective thermal protection and vapor barrier. If the insulation does not have a metallized coating, then it is recommended to cover it with a vapor barrier film with an overlap of at least 5 cm, for example, Ondutis R Termo - a vapor barrier with heat-saving properties that can withstand temperatures up to +120 degrees and return 80% of the heat back into the room. After installation, all joints of the insulator are glued with foil (aluminum) tape.

• Finishing. Inside, the bath is traditionally sheathed with a wooden clapboard, for mounting which an additional crate 2-3 cm thick is attached to the crate fixed for the installation of insulation. It will serve as the basis for the clapboard fasteners and create the necessary ventilation gap between the front skin and the vapor barrier. So the resulting condensate can flow down unhindered, leaving the lining dry.

The stages of internal insulation of a bathhouse built of wood, brick or foam blocks are almost identical, only the thickness of the heat insulator varies. In the steam room, it is desirable to mount a double layer of insulation in order to retain heat for a longer time. Some professionals do not recommend insulating log, timber and frame baths at all or using a small thickness insulator - the tree keeps heat well, in their opinion.

When insulating the walls of a brick bath, instead of wooden bars, galvanized steel profile. When installing a heat insulator to walls made of foam blocks, it is necessary to think about redistributing the load - it is optimal if it falls not on the walls, but on the floor. For this purpose, a vertical crate is used, fixed to the ceiling and floor, fastened with galvanized clamps to the walls.

Conclusion

When deciding how to insulate the walls of the bath, you must carefully approach the acquisition of thermal insulation material. For external wall insulation baths will do inexpensive foam plastic, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene, facing bricks or hollow ceramic blocks. For internal insulation of the bathhouse, you can use both natural materials that have been tested for centuries, as well as modern ones. Do not forget also about reliable vapor barrier, condensate removal and heat saving baths.

The main function of the Russian bath is to improve human health. In order to achieve this goal and in no case harm your body during a visit to the bath, it is necessary to correctly perform the warming of the bath. Subject to all the rules for warming this type of room, the heat in the bath is retained long time, which significantly saves cash spent on its heating.

The process of wall insulation in the bath

In most cases, insulation must be done indoors. This allows you to quickly heat the bath and also quickly cool it if necessary. Baths are characterized by the following properties:

• Relatively low air temperature 50-60 degrees;
• High humidity. Sometimes it can reach up to 100%.

Step-by-step internal warming of the bath

In order for these indicators to remain normal, it is necessary not only to properly insulate the bath, but also to use for this purpose proven over the years and well-proven.

Existing types of heaters for the bath

All of them, without exception, must meet the following safety requirements:

1. Do not disturb, but only maintain a healthy atmosphere in the bath.
2. Resistance to temperature changes in air.
3. Absence of harmful impurities emitted into the atmosphere.
4. Without smell.
5. Fire resistance.

All these indicators should be taken into account in the process of general warming of the bath, especially when choosing a heater for the steam room.

The scheme of warming the steam room in the bath

Nowadays, there are many completely different types heaters. Among them, the most popular and popular among buyers are the following types.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is a natural material with a fibrous structure. It is obtained by processing a mineral stone, some of its rocks, for example, basalt rocks. Vata has a number useful properties. These include:

Mineral wool sheets for thermal insulation

Mineral wool comes in different densities and hardness. In specialized stores, it can be purchased in the form of soft rolls, semi-rigid mats or rigid plates. It all depends on what purpose it is intended for. In other words, with its help they will insulate the bath from the inside, or vice versa from the outside.

glass wool

Glass wool in terms of its technical indicators lags far behind mineral wool. It is made using glass, or rather, its waste remaining during its production.

The process of finishing the bath room with glass wool

Glass is mixed with soda, sand and dolomite. The result is a quality insulation.

Glass wool is recommended to insulate the bath only from the outside, as it does not tolerate high temperatures. And over time, it begins to smell rather unpleasant. Basically, glass wool insulates the attic and the roof of the bath.

jute felt

It is also called an interventional type of insulation. Jute fiber felt is a natural material of natural origin. It is produced from the fibers of the jute plant.

It looks like a roll of jute felt

Basically, jute fiber is used for the production of ropes. It also produces fabric - burlap. Everywhere they insulate the bath, namely its walls.

Jute is able to retain heat well indoors, and also removes excess moisture from it. By itself, jute fiber is quite fragile and tough. That is why, to strengthen it thermal insulation properties flax fibers are added to it. The most famous brands of this insulation are flax jute, felt, linen.


All of them are collected in tape bobbins. It is characterized by such properties as resistance to settling and drying out, and also the felt practically does not rot.

Expanded clay

It is a material with thermal insulation properties. It is used mainly for warming the genitals and in the bath. Expanded clay in appearance looks like small balls. Their development is associated with such a process as the rapid firing of clay.

An example of floor insulation in a bath with expanded clay

Thermal insulation of the chimney with expanded clay

It is used as one of the types of backfill. The effect of thermal insulation is achieved when the backfill layer reaches a height of at least 25 centimeters.

Styrofoam

It is used for insulation of external walls. The whole is pasted over with the material, then it is plastered or covered with sheathing.

An example of finishing a bath with foam plastic

Styrofoam cannot be used for wall insulation inside the building itself. It releases phenol into the atmosphere. Styrofoam is unable to withstand elevated temperatures and it does not have sufficient fire resistance.
Watch the video review of heaters for the bath.

An example of fixing a heater in a frame bath

They are pre-coated with a protective film and only then the insulation is fixed - basalt wool.

The process of installing a vapor barrier in a frame bath

In the steam compartment, a vapor barrier film with foil is additionally used.

Insulation of a log bath

A bathhouse carved out of wood practically does not need to be insulated. The only places that are subject to this process are the intervention joints. For thermal insulation, jute fiber is used with the addition of flax elements to it.

Detailed scheme log cabin insulation

The steam room of the bath is also subject to additional insulation. Mineral wool is suitable as a heater for it. Foil is used for vapor barrier of walls.

Block bath insulation

The insulation of a block-type bath is similar to the process of warming a brick bath. To begin with, the walls of the bath are insulated from the outside. This will keep the room at the optimum temperature. The walls from the inside are traditionally sheathed with aspen clapboard. It is the most suitable option, as it has low thermal conductivity.

Scheme and names of elements for insulation block bath

In addition to such insulation, the walls in the steam room are covered with the so-called warm puff. It consists of a layer of mineral wool surrounded on both sides with foil or vapor barrier film.

The process of mounting a wooden frame on blocks

Having thus completed all the necessary steps to insulate the block bath, it is possible to achieve relative ease in warming up the room to certain temperature indicators and maintaining it for as long as necessary.

Proper insulation of individual bath blocks

Any bath needs good thermal protection. At the same time, each individual block of the bath must be insulated in its own way. Not only modern types of expensive heaters are suitable for this. Since the time of our grandfathers, simple and affordable materials have been known. So how and with what can you insulate the bath yourself?

The names of the elements and the principle of warming the bath room

Insulation of the foundation of the bath

For its insulation, only those types of insulation that have such properties as:

1. Resistant to high humidity.
2. Biological resistance to various types of damage.
3. Ability to withstand temperature extremes.

Styrofoam has such properties. With its help, they do it immediately after it hardens. In this case, sheets of cellular foam are fixed on the outside of the base of the bath.

Bath foundation insulation scheme

The thickness of these layers should be 5 cm. It is best to use 2 layers of foam, arranged in a checkerboard pattern.




As additional insulation, the foundation is covered with warm plaster.

Read also

Construction of a sewer for a bath

Insulation in the bath floor

Traditionally, the floor in the bath is a wooden flooring. There are two types of flooring:

1. Leaking floor. This name was given to a cold floor, between the boards of which there are small gaps. Through them, water leaves the bath room to the street.
2. Non-leaking floor. This is the so-called blind floor. It differs from the previous floor in a way. This floor is made with a slight slope in one direction. In the basement of the bath, a special water collector is made.

The process of warming the floor in the bath

Insulation in the bath is subject only to a non-leaking floor. At the same time, two types of insulation are suitable for such purposes: expanded clay and basalt wool. They fill all the gaps between the two floorings: rough and finish. At the same time, do not forget that both of these materials need protection from moisture. It is performed both from the outside and from the inside. If a concrete floor is provided in the bath, then foam plastic or mineral wool is used for its insulation, in the form of rigid mats.

The process of laying foil material on the floor

In the steam room, the concrete floor is not insulated at all. To protect from the cold, you just need to put wooden lattices on top of it. IN washing department for a concrete floor, a so-called underfloor heating system is created.

Bath wall insulation

In the process of warming the walls of the bath, it is especially worth paying attention to them. To enhance the protection of walls from moisture, it is not at all a film specially designed for this purpose that is used, but a heater with a reflection effect or foil.

The scheme of wall insulation in the bath

When installing such a heater, it is imperative to leave a small gap between it and the finish of the bath.

An example of laying mineral wool on the walls in the bath

When installing the upholstery, it is advisable to use a crate. It is fixed over the mirror side of the insulation. The mirror film is fixed on the walls in a vertical position. In this case, stretching of the strips should be avoided.

The process of attaching foil to the walls in the bath room

Since this material is quite thin, the foil on the wall is made two-layer. All joints between the strips are glued with special adhesive tape.

In stone baths, with additional wall insulation, basalt wool is used. On both sides it is protected by hydro-vapor barriers.

Insulation of the ceiling in the bath

The ceiling, like no other part of the bath, needs reliable thermal protection. heated bath air comes out most of all through it. The ceiling of the bath can be insulated in two ways. These include:

Previously, in order to qualitatively insulate the ceiling of the bath, sawdust with foliage was used. Dry sand at least 5 cm thick was poured on top. Ceilings were covered with a layer of liquid clay. This method of ceiling insulation is quite popular, it is used today.

Bath roof insulation

The roof of the bath is insulated using the standard insulation scheme. Exactly in the same way. Insulation is chosen based on how the attic of the bath will be used in the future.

Scheme for installing insulation on the roof of the bath

If planned, then in this case the roof is covered with mineral wool.
If the attic is planned to be used only for household needs, then mineral wool can be replaced with glass wool.


This will help to significantly save the money allocated for the purchase of insulation.

Example of foil thermal insulation on the ceiling

• Stage 1: ceiling insulation
• Stage 2: wall insulation
• Stage 3: floor insulation

Often, the problem of thermal insulation of apartments and houses is not paid attention, but for baths it is of particular importance. After all, if you do not insulate the steam room, then heat will not linger in it for a long time. Therefore, it is so important to insulate the bath from the inside, paying special attention to the steam room. After all, it is in it that you have to spend more time.

• bars;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• screwdriver;
• saw;
• foil;
• Styrofoam;
• glass wool;
• waterproofing material;
• polyethylene film;
• blank paper;
• masking tape;
• anti-corrosion composition;
• building level;
• facade panels;

Stage 1: ceiling insulation

Stage 2: wall insulation

The scheme of wall insulation in the bath.

Stage 3: floor insulation

The scheme of floor insulation in the bath.

Scheme of warming the bath from the outside.

Do-it-yourself warming of a steam room: step by step instructions(video and photo)

Warming a steam room with your own hands is quite simple. You just need to read the step-by-step instructions and prepare everything you need for work.

Warming the steam room from the inside step by step instructions

Warming the steam room allows you to solve the problem of heat loss, otherwise the effect of visiting the bath will be reduced to zero. The thermal insulation of this room can be called high-quality if the insulation work is done with the ceiling, floor and walls.

The steam room must be kept at a high temperature. At the same time, heat loss should be minimized, and warming the steam room from the inside will help to achieve the required level of thermal protection. When erecting a bath building, this room should be equipped in accordance with all the rules.

The better the thermal protection of the steam room is, the less fuel will be required to heat it during operation, and the steam that has a beneficial effect on the human body can remain in it longer. Regardless of the material of construction of the bath, the process of insulation necessarily consists of thermal insulation of the ceiling, flooring and walls.

Materials used in the arrangement of steam rooms

To make the internal insulation of the steam room, in the old days, people used exclusively environmentally friendly materials. They not only retained heat well and were easy to use, but at the same time had a number of disadvantages, including susceptibility to the rotting process.

Modern materials meet many requirements for them:

• successfully withstand high temperatures;
• tolerate high humidity;
• do not emit substances harmful to human health;
• look aesthetically pleasing.

In order to perform thermal insulation of the steam room from the inside, use the following building materials:

• wooden slats(for arranging the crate);
• mineral wool or glass wool;
• polyethylene film;
• penoizol (can be replaced with aluminum foil);
• expanded polystyrene;
• perlite;
• concrete mortar;
• reinforcing mesh.

Before you insulate the steam room in the bath from the inside, you should prepare the tools:

For the interior lining of the steam room, wooden slats, boards or lining are most often chosen, which depends on the personal preferences of the owner of the building. It is the tree that meets the operational requirements for such premises.

Hardwoods with a low density are ideal - these are alder, maple, linden and aspen. As for conifers, at high temperatures, their wood will begin to release resin.

Warming the walls of the steam room from the inside

Properly executed insulation of the walls of the steam room from the inside is a structure of several layers: steam, hydro and heat insulating. Particular attention should be paid to the arrangement of the first of them, since it must protect the remaining layers from the influence of hot steam. If it penetrates the insulation, this material can get wet and lose all its properties.

Most often, the vapor barrier is equipped with the use of aluminum foil or special insulators that are coated with a foil layer, for example, it can be penoizol (the material is shown in the photo). At the same time, experts do not recommend using such well-known vapor barriers as roofing material, polyethylene, glassine when lining a steam room, since at high temperatures they begin to release toxins that are dangerous to human health.

In turn, the foil prevents the insulation from getting wet and at the same time provides the effect of a thermos, as a result of which heat will be retained inside the room for a long time.

Waterproofing is essential to protect the thermal insulation material from moisture. The fact is that a poorly laid waterproofing material in conditions of high humidity, namely such air in a steam room, can provoke the onset of the process of decay. The appearance of mold and fungus on the walls can cause irreparable harm to both the structure and human health.

For waterproofing, foil or special film materials are most often used. The joints of the canvases must be sealed with adhesive tape to prevent the penetration of steam and condensate into the thermal insulation. All these materials for arranging waterproofing are mounted using construction stapler.

The next layer when creating the thermal protection of the steam room will be the installation of thermal insulation, which is made using materials that have the property of retaining heat. These include mineral wool and glass wool.

The first of the above heaters is an environmentally friendly natural product. But mineral wool is afraid of moisture and loses its properties when wet. When using mineral wool, it is necessary for everyone possible ways to prevent the penetration of moist air, so this insulation is carefully wrapped with foil and films.

Glass wool differs from mineral wool in that it does not get wet and therefore it can be used to insulate a steam room from the inside. When the steam room is insulated from the inside - step-by-step instruction suggests that work should begin with fixing a wooden crate to the walls, to which insulation is then mounted.

Thermal protection of the floor and ceiling from the inside

Basically, heat losses in the steam room occur due to insufficient thermal insulation of the ceiling, since warm air flows always rise upwards. For this reason, the ceiling should be insulated not only from the side of the room, but also from the side of the attic.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of the steam room is performed in the same way as it is done with walls. First of all, fix the wooden crate. Then a heat-insulating material is attached to it, preferably glass wool. From above it is covered with a vapor barrier, and already an outer finishing layer is mounted on it - most often a lining.

As for the ceiling from the side of the attic, it can be additionally insulated with straw, clay, sawdust or other materials. Near the chimney pipe for anti fire safety use special mastics.

Currently, various floor coverings are being installed in the steam rooms. You can insulate the floor, for example, with polystyrene foam. This material is distinguished by high mechanical strength, rather low thermal conductivity, and besides, once in a humid environment, it does not change its qualities.

When the steam room is insulated from the inside with its use, the step-by-step work is as follows:

1. A waterproofing layer is placed on the prepared even base, using a special film, on which polystyrene foam boards are laid tightly one to the other.
2. To give the structure greater strength in order to increase the service life, a reinforcing mesh is mounted on the expanded polystyrene and a concrete solution is poured. When doing work, do not forget about arranging a slight slope to ensure the drainage of water.
3. After the final hardening of the concrete, which usually takes about a month, you can start laying the finishing floor surface. A good option is laying ceramic tiles.

It is also possible to insulate the floor of the steam room with the help of such a natural material as perlite, which is sand expanded by a special method. To create insulation, take 2 parts of perlite and part of water, mix and combine with cement. The whole mass is well mixed.

The base of the steam room floor is poured concrete screed, on top of which an insulating mixture is placed and allowed to dry for a week. Then they make a screed again and complete the work with a finishing floor covering from a finishing material.

Sometimes in the steam room on a high-quality concreted, durable and reliable floor, wooden gratings are placed, which should be dried periodically during operation to avoid rotting and rapid deterioration.

How to insulate a steam room?

• What will be required to carry out the work?
• Stage 1: ceiling insulation
• Stage 2: wall insulation
• Stage 3: floor insulation
• Stage 4: warming in the steam room outside

Often, the problem of thermal insulation of apartments and houses is not paid attention, but for baths it is of particular importance. After all, if you do not insulate the steam room, then heat will not linger in it for a long time. Therefore, it is so important to insulate the bath from the inside. paying special attention to the steam room. After all, it is in it that you have to spend more time.

At the same time, it is necessary to carry out the warming of the steam room with high quality, performing all the work in stages. Below is a step by step guide. She will help you in this not easy, but so important matter.

What will be required to carry out the work?

The first step is to prepare all the materials and tools that will be needed to insulate the steam room. Here is their list:

• rolled heat-insulating material;
• bars;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• screwdriver;
• saw;
• foil;
• Styrofoam;
• glass wool;
• waterproofing material;
• polyethylene film;
• blank paper;
• masking tape;
• wood material for sheathing (linden, aspen);
• anti-corrosion composition;
• building level;
• facade panels;
• water-repellent varnish for wood.

Stage 1: ceiling insulation

Scheme of insulation of the ceiling in the steam room.

First of all, thermal insulation in the steam room should be made for the ceiling. First you need to cover it with roll paper, it is important that its joints are overlapped (from 10 to 15 cm). After that, it must be strengthened, otherwise deformation will occur during further work. To do this, you need to take the sticks (size 5x5 cm) and nail them to the rolled heat-insulating material.

It is important here to create a monolithic coating so that seams with gaps do not form, otherwise the tightness of the waterproofing will be broken.

As a result, steam will penetrate into the rolled thermal insulation material, which will lead to its deformation and deterioration of its performance.

Scheme of the ceiling device in the steam room.

Now you need to fix the foil with additional blocks. This will prevent it from peeling off, and the finished crate will allow you to quickly lay the finishing material. It should be wood. The use of non-environmentally friendly materials here is simply unacceptable. After all, you will inhale those harmful substances that they emit when taking water procedures in the bath. As a result, instead of improving your health, you will, on the contrary, worsen it. It's great if you use linden or aspen for ceiling cladding. These materials emit special resins that heal the body and make the atmosphere in the bath better, as a pleasant smell spreads.

You can fix the finishing material on nails, be sure to pre-treat them with an anti-corrosion compound. The wood itself must be coated with a water-repellent varnish. It is best to do this before it is fixed to the ceiling. After all, then you can process it from all sides at once, which will extend its service life.

With the help of boards you need to create an even surface. To avoid distortion, be sure to use the building level. In addition, for finishing, choose only those boards that have the same thickness, otherwise differences in height in the finished coating cannot be avoided.

Stage 2: wall insulation

The scheme of wall insulation in the bath.

Do not assume that only the ceiling needs to be insulated. The walls also need additional finishing with insulating materials. Therefore, having completed work with the ceiling, you will need to move on to them. It is also necessary to start wall insulation with the laying out of roll material. It must then be nailed with a wooden frame, on which the foil is immediately lined. But here it is necessary to take it with a thickness of 65-70 mm. After all, much more heat escapes through the walls than through the ceiling. Therefore, the use of thinner material here is not permissible. Lay it with an overlap, and glue all the joints several times with masking tape. Then it will be possible to make the surface of the walls as airtight as possible. As a result, the steam room will be as warm as possible.

After that, a wooden frame is installed on the foil fixed on the surface of the walls. And the finishing material is already mounted on it. It is not necessary to use boards here. you can choose lining for the walls. By the way, the ceiling can also be finished with it, but then the insulation in the steam room bath will cost a pretty penny, but if you have allocated a significant budget for this, then feel free to opt for this material. Aesthetic and operational properties will not disappoint you. Wall decoration will turn out well and will delight every time you take water procedures.

Stage 3: floor insulation

The scheme of floor insulation in the bath.

Now you can insulate the floor in the steam room. Here, work is carried out according to a slightly different scheme. The first step is to make waterproofing. It is necessary so that mold, fungus and rotting do not appear inside the floor. This layer will protect the floor from condensation. To create it, you will need to use plastic wrap. It is laid out on the entire surface of the floor. If there are seams, then make large joints and glue them with masking tape.

Next, you need to create another layer on top of the film. It must be laid out from clean thick paper. It is necessary so that no harmful substances are released from the base of the floor. In addition, such a layer will minimize the loss of hot air. It will definitely need to fix a wooden frame of small width. And on the frame you need to lay out and fix the mineral wool slabs with self-tapping screws.

Then the following material is laid out on the floor surface: foam. It needs to be fixed on top of the cotton wool on small carnations. After that, it will need to be covered with foil, and put the plastic film on it again. So many layers must be created in order to minimize the heat leakage through the floor, which occur through it in large quantities. As a result, the insulation will turn out to be of very high quality.

And the last thing that needs to be done is to create another frame on the floor surface. It should be thicker than the previous one. It is necessary for subsequent finishing. After all, on the surface of the floor you will need to lay out the boards. Treat them with water-repellent varnish.

Stage 4: warming in the steam room outside

If your bath is wooden, then you must definitely insulate it from the outside. After all, a sealed floor, walls and ceiling in this case will not be enough. Therefore, here it is necessary to create a crate on the outside of the bath, mineral wool slabs should be laid on it. They need to be fixed with screws or nails. After that, a polyethylene film is lined. Next, facade panels are laid on it. All of them must be covered with varnish. This will protect them from adverse environmental factors.

Of these stages, the warming in the steam room consists. As it becomes clear, complex work is needed here. It is not enough to insulate only the surface of the walls and floor, you also need to remember about the ceiling and the outer skin. This is the only way to get quality work done. Its result will not disappoint you. And since the entire instruction is presented in an accessible form and is step-by-step, then using it, you can do everything yourself.

Most importantly, prepare everything in advance. necessary tools and materials. We wish you good luck in warming the steam room!

How to insulate a steam room in a bath with your own hands

Foreword. In Rus', from ancient times, baths were built from log cabins, today, along with this traditional material, timber, foam block, expanded clay and other modern materials are used. Thermal insulation of the steam room will solve the problem rapid loss heat and heat from the steam room will not go away so quickly.

How to properly insulate a steam room wooden bath? The thermal insulation of the dressing room and the steam room will be of high quality if the work touches all three planes of the steam room - the floor, walls and ceiling. Most of the heat goes through the ceiling of the bath, but other surfaces should not be ignored, including the door in the bath. Consider how to properly insulate the steam room in the bath.

Do I need to insulate the steam room in the bath

Photo. Warming the steam room from the inside with your own hands

Despite the low thermal conductivity of modern and traditional materials, any steam room needs high-quality insulation. Especially when it comes to internal thermal insulation structures in the steam room - walls, floor and ceiling. Insulation of the steam room is a very responsible matter; during work, you should strictly follow the instructions of the manufacturers and take into account other nuances.

For example, not all heat and steam insulating materials can be used when finishing the floor and ceiling in the bath. Many materials do not withstand moisture, and if used in this room roofing material or glassine, then a visit to the steam room can ruin unpleasant odors from these materials. The choice of thermal insulation is carried out depending on the material from which the bath was built.

How to insulate a steam room in a bath from the inside

The most common materials for the construction of bath walls are logs, timber, foam concrete, aerated concrete or expanded clay concrete. Compared to natural wood, the thermal conductivity of the blocks is higher, which means that thermal insulation of the steam room is simply necessary. But, before considering the technology of work, you should figure out how and how to insulate the steam room in a bath from a bar with your own hands.

If basalt wool was chosen as thermal insulation, then high-quality vapor barrier of mineral wool should be made, since this material absorbs moisture. The most balanced solution for finishing wet rooms is penoplex or foil penofol. Extruded polystyrene foam is often used for self-insulation strip foundation and blind area of ​​a private house.

For owners of baths from blocks, there is no question whether or not to insulate the room from the inside. It is important to learn how to insulate a steam room in a bath from blocks on your own. The technology of thermal insulation is divided into three main stages: the arrangement and insulation of walls, floors, and the ceiling of the steam room of a brick bath. All work can be done on your own and inexpensively.

How to insulate the walls of the steam room with your own hands

Photo. Thermal insulation of walls in a log steam room

The thermal insulation of log walls in the steam room from the inside is a layered "pie" of vapor barrier, heat-insulating and waterproofing layer. The vapor barrier film on the side of the warm room protects the mineral wool from moisture and steam, in addition, it additionally creates the effect of a "thermos" in the steam room and is a natural heat reflector.

Rolled waterproofing prevents moisture from entering walls made of logs or timber, protects the structure from condensation and the formation of fungus and prevents the process of decay of the structure. To do this, use a polyethylene film, foamed polyethylene or foil. The waterproofing film is laid between the thermal insulation layer and the walls in a steam room made of blocks or wood.

The insulation layer itself is laid between the guides fixed on the wall. When installing the frame, please note that the distance between the guides must be 1 cm less than the width of the mineral wool slab so that the basalt slab fits snugly into the frame. If you are using slab thermal insulation, then all the cracks should be thoroughly foamed.

How to insulate the ceiling of the steam room with your own hands

Photo. Thermal insulation of the ceiling in the steam room

If many people neglect the thermal insulation of the walls, then it is simply necessary to do the ceiling insulation in the steam room with your own hands in any bathhouse. Since this part of any structure is the most vulnerable in terms of heat loss. Through the ceiling of the steam room, hot air leaves the room in a short time.

For the thermal insulation of the ceiling in the steam room, inexpensive pasture materials were previously used - sawdust mixed with ordinary earth or expanded clay. Loose thermal insulation covered the ceiling boards above the steam room, thereby significantly reducing the heat loss of the room. These "old-fashioned" methods, even with the advent of new materials, until today have not lost their relevance.

The ideal option for finishing the ceiling in a steam room is the thermal insulation of this design from the outside, i.e. from the attic side. To do this, use glass wool or basalt insulation. Where the chimney pipe comes out of the ceiling, non-combustible insulation should be used - expanded clay or Rocklite Mineral Wool. Consider further how to insulate the floor in the steam room.

How to insulate the floor of the steam room with your own hands

Photo. Floor insulation in the steam room with foam

Consider a more common option for thermal insulation of the floor in the steam room - using polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Foam extrusion meets all necessary requirements for thermal insulation of wet rooms. This material does not absorb moisture, is not afraid of rodents, but the insulation should be laid only on a flat base.

Most often, the floor in the bath is insulated under the screed. To do this, a waterproofing film is laid on the ground to protect against groundwater, then slab insulation. Gaps and cracks between the plates should be sealed with mounting foam. At the end, a reinforcing mesh is laid and a concrete screed is made. For concrete waterproofing, penetron or liquid glass should be used.

To finish the floor in the steam room, floor tiles or porcelain stoneware are used. You can also lay the wooden floor on the logs, which will be more pleasant and warm for the feet.

How to insulate a steam room

Without a good steam room, a bath loses its meaning of existence. During the construction of baths, special attention is paid to this room. The main task of the steam room is to store hot air and steam for a long time, to ensure the quality of bathing procedures at the highest level. A main job builders - to carry out the warming of the steam room in the bath in such a way as to exclude long heating and rapid cooling, to increase the concentration of steam.

Poorly performed thermal insulation work, the use of low-quality materials will inevitably lead to the appearance of dampness, mold, and rotting of wooden structures. This applies to all surfaces of the steam room: floor, walls, ceiling. It is very important to scrupulously and step by step carry out work on warming the steam room from the inside, step-by-step instructions will help you correctly navigate the sequence of actions and the choice of materials.

The choice of insulation

The steam room is a specific room, so the choice of heat-insulating materials for walls, ceiling and floor should be approached responsibly. Insulation for the steam room must be moisture resistant, not afraid of significant temperatures, not emit toxic substances. Most of all, mineral wool fits these definitions, or rather its variety - stone or basalt wool. It is produced in the form of plates of various thicknesses and dimensions. The material is easily cut with an ordinary construction knife, so stone wool slabs are very easy to fit to the desired dimensions. To equip the floor and ceiling from the outside, loose insulation is used - expanded clay or expanded perlite.

As a vapor and waterproofing for steam rooms, foil material is the most suitable. It is available in foam or kraft paper. You can use any of them, but in the case of warming the steam room from the inside, preference is usually given to the second option.

The procedure for performing insulation procedures

The process of warming the steam room in the bath goes from top to bottom. That is, work begins to be done from the ceiling, then the walls and, last but not least, the floor. It will not be superfluous to remind you that before starting insulation work, wooden surfaces should be cleaned of dust and signs of fungal manifestations. It is necessary to treat the wood with antiseptic preparations and a fire retardant, since it is possible to insulate the steam room in the bath from the inside efficiently and effectively only on a well-prepared basis.

Ceiling insulation

Thermal insulation of the ceiling is most conveniently performed from the side of the attic. Ideally, do it from both sides, because the ceiling is one of the most vulnerable parts of any building, especially a bath. It is through this design that the largest proportion of heat loss from the inside occurs. So from above:

• a layer of a rolled vapor barrier is attached to the draft ceiling, tightly closing all joints and making an overlap on the gable and truss elements;
• pour a layer of expanded clay or foamed perlite, level it;
• in places where the thermal insulation comes into contact with the chimney, they are treated with fire-retardant mastics.

Insulation of a steam room in a wooden bath from the inside on the ceiling is as follows. If the ceiling structure below has smooth surface, then a frame is built on it. In the case of ribs, this is not necessary. The first layer of the heat-insulating cake is a vapor barrier membrane, which is attached to the base, observing the configuration of the ribbed surface. Then, stone wool slabs are laid as tightly as possible between the beams and covered with another layer of vapor barrier. The next stage of warming the steam room, its upper part, is the installation of a protective layer of foil material. Joints between individual sheets are sealed with aluminum foil tape. Particular attention must be paid to the places where the ceiling meets the walls in order to prevent the slightest possibility of the appearance of "cold bridges". If necessary, use mounting foam.

Baths are built not only from wood, there are options for brick buildings. In such buildings, the execution process thermal insulation works looks a little different. Warming of the steam room brick bath begins at the stage of construction of the roof structure. Support ceiling beams, which are to be embedded in brick walls, are wrapped with two to three layers of glassine or roofing felt before laying. The nests for them are made a little wider than the beams themselves, the free space is filled with mounting foam or mortar. Outside, the recesses are covered with masonry. Next, the installation of the ceiling structure is carried out, and the insulation is performed in the same way as in the log house.

Wall insulation

Warming of the wall surfaces of a brick bath begins with the application of a waterproofing layer on them. Most often, roll materials or mastics that do not contain bitumen are used. Because the specific smell of this material when heated can penetrate into the room and spoil the positive impression of visiting the steam room. Further, the process of producing heat-insulating works for walls made of brick and wood is the same and is performed in the following order:

• vertically arranged bars are stuffed on the walls with a step equal to the width of the stone wool slabs;
• with the help of a construction stapler, a vapor barrier membrane is attached, carefully wrapping each beam with it;
• heat-insulating material is tightly laid between the bars in one or two layers, depending on the thickness of the plates; stone wool is a little springy, so it holds well on its own and does not require additional fastening;
• the top vapor barrier layer is made of aluminum foil on kraft paper, you can use foam-based foil material, but the first option works more reliably in wet conditions.

The foil is fixed end-to-end, and the seams are closed with a special adhesive-based protective tape. All work must be carried out carefully and responsibly, but special care must be taken when sealing corners and junctions of walls with a ceiling surface.

Floor insulation

To make warm floors in the steam room is no less important than to insulate the walls and ceiling with high quality. Two options can be used: using plate materials or bulk materials. However, in both cases, it is necessary to start with surface leveling and rough preparation. And here, too, there can be two versions: with and without a drain. By and large, they do not use water in the steam room, so there is no need to arrange a drain hole there. But some builders do. Then, when arranging the sex cake, starting from the preparatory layer, slopes are made towards the drain. Otherwise, the floor must be strictly horizontal. Now about the floor design itself:

1. Insulation with expanded polystyrene boards. According to rough preparation, a layer of waterproofing is laid with a slight overlap on the walls. Then the insulation boards are laid in one or two rows, depending on the thickness. The next step is the laying of the reinforcing mesh and then the screed with a cement-sand mortar.
2. For warming bulk materials expanded clay or perlite is used. First, waterproofing must be done. Then pour a layer of dry insulation required thickness, level it with a plaster rule according to the level. The cover layer is made with a concrete mixture or mortar.

The clean floor in the sauna is made of rough ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware. Traditional wood flooring is often used. The deck board is doing great. In addition, its use is useful in terms of safety, since the board has a corrugated surface and does not slip.

Wall and ceiling cladding in the steam room

For wall and ceiling cladding in a steam room, they are usually used wooden lining. Each owner chooses and equips the design of the steam room of the bath to his liking. However, there are general rules that must be followed. First of all, it is the type of wood from which the lining is made. The most suitable are linden, aspen, larch. It is undesirable to use breeds containing a large number of pitches. At high temperatures, they emit fumes with a heavy odor. The next requirement is that the lining should not have knots, cracks and other defects. That is, high-quality material is best suited for lining a steam room.

The principle of wall and ceiling cladding is traditional. On aluminum foil, a crate is made with the location of the timber for the planned layout of the lining. Then, planks are attached to the frame, connecting them with spike-groove locks.

Warming the steam room from the inside - step by step instructions

Before insulating the steam room, the owner of the bath must choose the right heat-insulating material, focusing on the following recommendations:

First, the insulator must exhibit high stopping power. The heat transfer coefficient must not rise above 0.2 W/(m K). And that's just for flooring. And for wall and ceiling insulation, it is better to use a material with a coefficient of 0.2 W / (m K).

Secondly, the insulator should not react to moisture. Especially floor material. For walls and ceilings, we can use a membrane or reflector that cuts off moisture, but in the case of the floor, this material will not pass.

Thirdly, an open (floor) insulator must have high mechanical strength. There are no special requirements for walls and attic floors. Here the characteristics of the material can be improved due to the external finish.

Fourthly, the warming of the steam room involves constant contact of the material with the area of ​​high temperatures. Some fans manage to heat up the room to 100-120 degrees Celsius, and 75-80 ° C is considered normal temperature. Therefore, the insulation should not melt or catch fire even in the case of a long, many hours of stay in this temperature range.

Fifthly, the material must be absolutely neutral to the human body. Selection harmful substances and provoking allergic reactions is excluded in principle. People go to the bath for health, not for new sores.

Eventually, the best option Insulation for the field should be recognized as granular expanded clay. He is not afraid of any mechanical load or moisture. It is better to put ordinary or foil mineral (basalt) wool on the walls and ceiling. It will withstand heat, and a finishing layer will protect it from moisture and possible mechanical impact.

Styrofoam, expanded polystyrene, foil polyethylene are not suitable for warming the steam room - they cannot withstand heating even up to 70 degrees Celsius.

Well, now that we have selected the materials, you can proceed to the direct insulation of the steam room from the inside, having previously studied the step-by-step instructions for the floor, ceiling and walls.

How to insulate the floor - a layered review

To do this, we will have to form a multi-layer structure consisting of waterproofing, thermal insulation and finishing in the direction from the ground. The first layer is waterproofing. It is made in the form of a polyethylene film, which is laid on the prepared soil. Moreover, the preparation consists in adding a layer of sand, with a thickness of 15 centimeters.

The second layer is thermal insulation. It is formed on the basis of expanded clay bedding. The thickness of this layer is usually equal to twice the thickness of the walls and ranges from 30 to 40 centimeters. Moreover, upon completion of the formation of the bedding layer, we must reach the level of the first crown of the log cabin of the bath.

Expanded clay is perfect for thermal insulation of the steam room floor

Next, a reinforcing mesh with 20 cm cells is laid on the expanded clay and the screed is poured using sand-cement mortar with filler. Optimal Thickness screeds - from 5 to 8 centimeters. At the same time, along the perimeter of the floor, at the level of the future plinth, it is necessary to fill a waterproofing foil skirt that protects the logs from contact with concrete.

For finishing heat-resistant floor use tiles or boards laid on the crate.

We insulate the ceiling - step by step instructions

To insulate the ceiling in the steam room, a completely different heat insulator is needed - foil mineral wool. It withstands heating up to 700 degrees Celsius and can easily endure the usual temperature in this area of ​​the steam room, which does not rise above 160-180 ° C.

The finishing process itself begins with covering the ceiling with an antiseptic primer that protects the boards from fungus and mold. The second step is the stuffing of the crate boards on the ceiling, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the insulation (usually 10 centimeters). The step of laying the boards is equal to the width of a standard strip of mineral wool.

The ceiling is insulated with foil mineral wool

The third step is laying the insulation. After the assembly of the crate is completed, the space between the boards is filled with mineral wool, which is laid with foil outward (towards the floor). And all joints are carefully glued with foil tape. After completion of work on the ceiling, there should be no gaps.

The final step - installation on top of the crate finishing board(lining) or plywood panels. Moreover, in this case, it is necessary to read the description of the specification for the lining - options from pine and spruce and other resinous trees are not suitable in this case. The ideal lining for a bath is made from hardwood deciduous trees.

How to insulate walls in a steam room - an overview of the process

The arrangement of vertical thermal insulation on the walls of the bath does not require the use of expensive foil mineral wool. In this case, it is enough to take ordinary mineral wool and aluminum foil, which will serve as a good vapor barrier and screen from high temperatures.

The installation process itself is as follows:

• We impregnate the walls with an antiseptic - it will protect the log house from rot and fungus.
• We fill boards with a thickness of 3-4 centimeters and a width of 2-3 cm more than the depth of the insulation on the walls. The step of placing the boards should match the width of the mineral wool roll. At the end, all boards must be impregnated with an antiseptic.
• We lay mineral wool on dry logs (the antiseptic must dry), filling the spaces between the boards.
• We stuff aluminum foil over the crate, rolling it in horizontal stripes from the bottom up. In this case, the upper strip should overlap with the lower one (2-3 centimeters will be enough). And as fasteners it is better to use staples (from a stapler). Moreover, it is better to glue the joints with foil tape.
• We stuff planks 2 centimeters thick on the boards, previously impregnated with an antiseptic. So you will form a counter-lattice. And at the end, on top of these planks, we mount a hardwood lining.

Such a scheme allows you to collect very effective thermal insulation, protected from mechanical influences by lining. Therefore, almost all steam rooms are finished according to this scheme.

Warming the steam room from the inside step by step video instructions

Warming the steam room from the inside step by step video instructions Warming the steam room allows you to solve the problem of heat loss, otherwise the effect of visiting the bath will be reduced to zero. thermal insulation

Warming the steam room from the inside yourself

Bath helps us to relax not only with the body, but also with the soul.

Therefore, it is important that finishing materials not only fulfill their immediate function, but also please attractive appearance.

A few general rules

The first step before the next treatment is the preparation of work surfaces.

It is necessary to inspect the base for the presence of fungus and mold on it.

Extraneous inclusions and protrusions should also be absent.

To get rid of the fungus, it is enough to use the usual antiseptic composition.

Without it, the warming of the steam room from the inside will remain ineffective.

It is important to pay attention to the safety of materials.

The main requirement in this case is the ability to withstand high temperatures. Materials should not absorb moisture, should have reliable protection against mold.

And stay durable. Aluminum foil and basalt are not bad, modern solutions. The technology itself plays no less a role than the materials.

How can I insulate

In the course of the work, we will get a kind of "sandwich". It usually consists of several layers.

• Waterproofing. Prevents the appearance of fungal and mold formations. And prevents the activation of decay processes. This layer also protects the walls from the appearance of condensation on them. It is formed when hot steam is applied to the surface. Polyethylene film or foil are considered the best waterproofing materials. This is also required by warming the steam room from the inside in a wooden bath.
• Thermal insulation. Plain, clean paper is first laid on the base. The insulating layer comes only after that. The paper base makes it so that even minimal amount harmful substances. The paper makes sure that the minimum amount of hot air escapes. After that, a wooden frame is fixed on top with the same width as that of the insulation material itself. Synthetic board or mineral wool often make excellent insulators.
• To protect the thermal insulation from the effects of steam, a vapor barrier is needed. It also reflects heat radiation. And it creates a kind of "thermos" effect. This layer is made of foil, with a thickness of up to 65 microns. Installation is carried out to the crate made of wood. What are small nails or a stapler used for? The main thing is to carefully cover all edges and joints with foil. Then the steam will definitely not penetrate into the insulation.
• Internal lining. For which all surfaces are lined with clapboard. The frame is mounted on top of the thermal insulation layer. The lining itself, which is made from different breeds tree. The most important characteristic in this case is the minimum density.

What materials to choose

The question is not only to choose between materials of artificial and natural origin. Several other factors must also be taken into account.

This applies to the purpose and appearance, cost. Materials that solve this issue can be classified into one of the following groups depending on their properties.

• Wall blocks and slabs.
• Matte and lamellar, fibrous varieties.
• Backfills with different densities

Several groups are also distinguished by chemical composition:

• They have a plastic base. This includes polystyrene and expanded polystyrene.
• Technoblocks and technovets. This is a group of techno-heaters.
• Among the inorganic compounds include glass and mineral wool, basalt fiber.
• On organic. These include arbolite and fibrolite, aquavata.

Each of the varieties has both advantages and disadvantages. For example, plastic heaters are not very suitable for warming steam rooms from the inside.

This is due to the fact that such a base does not resist the effects of open fire. But they can insulate other rooms included in the bath room.

In turn, organic bases win in terms of environmental safety. Their prices are always affordable. But, if you do not use special formulations for processing, the material remains flammable.

Inorganic varieties are considered more versatile and practical. Thanks to this, mineral wool has become such a popular solution.

Internal insulation will be more effective with materials such as:

• aluminum foil
• Polyethylene materials
• Glassine base
• Ruberoid types

Vapor barrier with glassine and roofing material will not give the desired result. After all, these materials, when exposed to high temperatures, emit chemically active and harmful substances.

But glassine is generally often taken in order to insulate baths. But best of all, he proved himself in conjunction with materials such as lining, aluminum foil, mineral wool and log cabins.

There are several schemes according to which insulation is performed. But one of them is the most popular. For example, when lining with fibrous insulation is used.

• It all starts with the fact that a frame is created on the working wall surface. We take timber crates, horizontal and vertical, fix them on the wall. The beam should be thicker than the insulation, but only 20-30 millimeters. This margin is necessary to predict possible shifts.
• After that, the wall is sheathed using mineral wool.
• The vapor barrier layer is laid on the insulation. The main thing is to overlap the materials. For places with joints, their sealing, thin slats are used. A distance of approximately 3 centimeters must remain between the mineral wool and the vapor barrier.
• The lining is stuffed onto the surface of the vertical crate. The width of the latter is 40-50 mm. There is still a distance that will be a kind of gap for the ventilation system.

Such work has proven to be effective. But they require certain costs, both in time and in strength.

There are currently materials on the market that greatly simplify the whole process. Moreover, they combine the function of waterproofing and vapor barrier.

One of these options is foil foam. This is a fire-resistant insulation, during its installation there are no problems. As you can see, the technology for warming a steam room from the inside is not so complicated.

The scheme described above is well suited for the installation of timber buildings. Panel and frame structures have their own requirements for this process. There are several lightweight materials that will become indispensable assistants when working with panel walls:

Treatment of the heat insulator with lime milk is an additional requirement. In the future, it will be necessary to dry the base properly. Due to this, fire resistance is increased, rotting will no longer threaten the material.

If the walls are operated in difficult conditions from the point of view of climate, then the walls can be covered with fibrolite, or their analogue - reed slabs. In warm regions, the use of gypsum, cement and chip compounds will be relevant.

Ceiling work order

Ceilings suffer the most from exposure to temperatures that are often 160 degrees. The process of insulation and its features depend on what design the ceiling itself has.

The work will look like this if there is an attic or ceiling.

• We cover the ceiling boards with clay. Its layer should have a thickness of about 20 mm.
• Clay is needed in order to effectively retain moisture.
• Wood chips are poured into the cracks that form between the boards.
• Can be used for thermal insulation and other materials. The main thing is that their thickness should be at least 200 mm.

The insulation scheme for rooms where there is no attic looks somewhat different. First, a vapor barrier material is laid there. Sheathing and insulation layer are next, then - boards for the ceiling with beam beams.

Depending on the materials used and design features, the order of work will always vary.

Places where insulation and pipes are joined to each other. Between them it is necessary to make an indent of about 200 millimeters so as not to violate fire safety requirements. For this from rafter legs a special box is built.

It is he who will become the part that separates one part of the structure from another.

The main thing when warming a bath is to make sure that there are no places through which warm air could leave the room. It is also necessary to prevent the formation of condensate by all means.

About floor insulation

You can use two solutions to insulate the floor in the steam room.

Polystyrene has an important advantage in the form of a cellular structure. Due to this, moisture will never penetrate the material. Thermal insulation properties are retained high level, even if the surface is under severe mechanical stress.

Insulation of the steam room from the inside

But such material is most often used in baths that are built of brick.

He demands additional protection, because the brick itself easily conducts moisture inside.

Expanded polystyrene is a material that meets all safety requirements.

But the surface requires preliminary preparation before applying such a material.

The main requirements are strength and evenness. Do not do without thorough drying.

The waterproofing layer is laid on top of the material prepared in advance. Then, from above, the installation of the polystyrene foam plates themselves is carried out.

Here it is important to monitor the absence of places left without processing. Gaps and cracks can cause the formation of so-called cold bridges, therefore they should also be absent.

Decorative coatings are also laid on top, but only after the base has completely dried. Ceramic tiles are one of the best solutions today.

But it is also allowed to create a collapsible floor made of wood. It fits perfectly into the interior of the bath. And walking on such a surface is very pleasant. With a removable structure, it is possible to dry the boards without problems, which prolongs the overall service life.

About ventilation in the bath

It is impossible not to consider this issue, touching on the topic of insulation.

Particularly stringent requirements are imposed on this part of the system in the bath. Ventilation should not only ensure the flow of air into the room. It is important that it does not let the cold inside, but retains heat.

To solve this problem, it is necessary to create special supply and exhaust channels. Near the stove, a little above the floor level, there is an inlet.

Concerning exhaust duct, then it should be on the opposite side, in the upper part of the room. Special valves provide air flow regulation. It is necessary to observe one more condition for the system to work normally - so that the inlet opening is half as large as the exhaust one.

The work is regulated by valves. If properly managed, they can achieve the desired results. If you open only one valve, only pleasant aromas will remain in the room, the air will be fresh. intensive forced ventilation organized by opening two valves at once.

About floor waterproofing

The base and its materials determine which method of insulation is used in a particular case. Each method should be considered separately.

concrete floor insulation

This is the simplest and most affordable waterproofing solution for those with a steam room. It is suitable for washrooms, inside which the floor is completely filled with concrete. The order of work will be as follows.

• First, the floor surface is leveled until there are no deviations at all. Even the slightest dimples and tubercles are unacceptable.
• After that, proceed to the application bituminous mastic. You have to wait until it dries.
• Polyethylene film, roofing felt are laid on top of this layer.
• The base of the floor is ready, you can proceed to laying ceramic tiles.

There is also a second method. Its implementation is more difficult. But the result justifies all the costs, such waterproofing will pleasantly surprise you with high quality. Several steps need to be taken.

• A plywood sheet is fixed on the surface of the subfloor.
• Hydrosol is laid on top of plywood. This is a material whose edges lead beyond the wall.
• All joints in the waterproofing layer are reinforced with aluminum tape.
• The places of seams and joints that remained untreated are sealed with a conventional building hair dryer.
• Next comes the laying of the reinforced mesh, the laying of the concrete solution.
• The last stage includes decorative cladding.

So that all the walls do not get dirty, the lining is covered with tape. You also need to look at how old the log cabin for the bath is. Until the moment of complete shrinkage, buildings usually stand for at least two years. Otherwise, the floor surface will be deformed.

Isolate the wood floor

This method of insulation is very similar to what we wrote about earlier. It features the most simple step-by-step instructions.

• A layer of mineral wool mat is fixed under the lags, with a minimum thickness of 15 cm.
• Roofing material or euroroofing material is fixed over the first layer.
• Wooden structures require mandatory antiseptic treatment. This will eliminate the risk of rotting. And it will protect materials from spontaneous combustion, eating by insects.
• The draft floor should be laid already on top of the antiseptic layer. After that, everything is sheathed using lining.
• Only decorative cladding remains.

Door insulation with mineral wool

Warming a bath is a process that takes place a little differently than in other rooms.

The main difference is the high temperature and humidity, which are constantly preserved here.

But it is not difficult to solve the problem if you follow simple rules.

Seals must be laid on the wall as tightly as possible.

This will avoid the appearance of cracks and cracks through which hot or cold air passes inside.

There will be less chance that excessive moisture and condensation will appear in the bath.

Drying of the insulation is provided only by ventilation gaps, therefore it is not recommended to forget about them.

Ceilings must withstand the highest temperatures, this is always worth remembering. The main thing is not to use materials that are too easy to deform for insulation in this part of the room.

Or those varieties that emit harmful chemical substances when exposed to high temperatures. Condensation collects on the plastic without problems.

Doors, thresholds in the room also affect the performance of thermal insulation. A large gap under the door can lead to a low heat capacity of the steam room. There is always a solution - it is enough to install low doors that have a large threshold.

• Warming the steam room from the inside yourself

  
  Bath helps us to relax not only with the body, but also with the soul. Therefore, it is important that finishing materials not only fulfill their direct function, but also

Warming the bath - what you need for work

Warming the bath from the inside with your own hands will save money on work and heating. It is not a shame to invite friends to a comfortable bathhouse exuding warmth and comfort. High-quality thermal insulation, competently made of good materials, can maintain a unique microclimate. The work is laborious, but anyone with the necessary knowledge and skillful hands can cope with it.

Insulation of the bath from the inside differs from thermal insulation work in ordinary rooms by the conditions in which the materials are found. First of all, it is humidity, especially in the steam room and washing room, and in other rooms the air is not dry. Therefore, the insulation either should not absorb moisture, or it must be reliably protected from steam and moisture. In the steam room, the temperature can rise even above 100 °. Materials such as polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam are deformed at high temperatures, emit substances harmful to health. For the same reason, plastic or linoleum is never used in the bath. Part of the heat is lost as infrared radiation, so a foil layer is needed to reflect the rays.

To insulate the bath, you will definitely need a foil heat-resistant hydro-vapor barrier

In addition to the heat insulator, other materials will be required, in particular, the crate. for stone, brick baths it is better to use a drywall profile. The CD ceiling profile is usually used, the UD guide is used for edging around the perimeter. Hangers are fixed on average after 0.7 m, the distance between the profiles is slightly less than the width of the insulation. In a wooden bath, instead of a drywall profile, it is advisable to use bars, they are cheaper and will last as long as the walls.

You will need foil heat-resistant waterproofing. for example, foam. It is able to protect walls from dampness, reflect infrared rays, and additionally insulate the room due to the presence of foam material. For wooden baths, it can be used as the main material for insulation. On top of the insulation layer suit fine finish from the wagon. best material linden or aspen is considered, they are durable even in such difficult conditions, and besides, they do not burn.

How to insulate - an overview of artificial and natural materials

When choosing a material for insulation, you should be guided by quality characteristics. A good insulation should provide reliable vapor and waterproofing, be environmentally friendly, not fire hazardous. There are many materials for insulation - artificial and traditional from natural raw materials. If you are a fan of absolute sustainability, then, of course, choose a natural material. But you should be aware that without pre-treatment, such material is seriously threatened by mold, rodents, and insects. Artificial materials have the best qualities, it is easier to work with them.

Natural materials for insulation, such as moss, linen tow, hemp, have been used since ancient times. They are cheap or completely free, highly environmentally friendly, fill the bath with a special natural aroma. But they are short-lived, you need to constantly update them, it is difficult and long to work with them. From natural materials, perhaps, one expanded clay is convenient for work, durable. It is moisture resistant, weighs a little, durable. Thanks to these qualities, expanded clay is used for floor insulation in baths.

From synthetic materials for warming the bath from the inside, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral and glass wool are suitable. Each of the materials has unique properties:

1. 1. Expanded polystyrene is a reliable heat insulator of low cost and light weight. It is fire hazardous, does not withstand high temperatures, therefore it is used only in the dressing room and other similar rooms, except for the washing department and the steam room.
2. 2. Mineral wool is a durable, fireproof, non-hygroscopic material. It is produced in the form of sheets or mats, which are convenient to work with. It is easy to damage, so work with mineral wool should be careful.
3. 3. Glass wool is made from interwoven extremely thin glass fibers. The material contains a lot of air, so it has a heat-saving effect. Available in rolls or slabs.
4. 4. Basalt fiber is expensive, but it can be an ideal material for warming a bath. The basis is molten rocks, so the insulation does not burn, is not afraid of mechanical deformation and moisture, and keeps heat well. It is convenient to work with it, cutting into pieces of the required size.

The choice is influenced by the material of the walls. If the bath is brick, stone, made of concrete and similar materials, it is necessary to insulate. This is necessary to keep warm and extend the life of the building, because the walls will begin to collapse from high humidity and very large temperature fluctuations. The wooden bath itself is warm, but it will not be worse from the warming layer. It is recommended to insulate, if the beam is less than 15 cm thick, log baths with a wall thickness of less than 20 cm. With a greater thickness of log walls, thermal insulation for the bath is not needed, or a waterproofing layer is used, which is then covered with clapboard.

To keep your feet warm - underfloor heating without heating

It will be necessary to insulate the floor from the inside if this operation was previously skipped. The base of an uninsulated floor can be concrete or wood. For a concrete floor, expanded polystyrene or expanded clay is suitable for insulation. Expanded polystyrene is better extruded - denser than polystyrene, capable of withstanding a greater load. There is no need to worry about the threat to health - waterproofing and screed will protect against harmful emissions.

We carry out waterproofing with rolled bituminous material, dense polyethylene or mastic. They should capture the base and walls to a thickness equal to the insulating layer with the screed. On top of the waterproofing, we pour expanded clay or lay PPS slabs. We close the gaps between the sheets using polystyrene foam trimmings, mounting foam, and simply level the expanded clay. We lay another membrane on top, glue the joints with adhesive tape, creating a bag that does not allow moisture to pass through.

Insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing

On waterproofing, we fill in a reinforced screed. If we use expanded clay, the thermal insulation of the floor will improve. On the frozen floor, you can put the finish on top.

We warm the wooden floor in a similar way. We treat wood with antiseptics, use mineral wool or glass wool as a heater. We lay the waterproofing, logs on it, between them there is a tight insulator. From above we cover with two layers of material impregnated with bitumen. We glue the waterproofing membrane with adhesive tape, lay a wooden floor on top. Alternatively, we use plywood, on top of which we make a screed.

If the cold floor from the boards can be disassembled, then it is better to insulate it from the base. We select the ground shallowly, take it out, ram the base. We fall asleep with a 10–15 cm layer of sand and gravel, tamp and lay waterproofing material. We fill the membrane with expanded clay or lay other material. We prepare a solution of cement and sand 1: 1, pour a rough screed. After setting it, we make a finishing reinforced screed.

Warm walls and ceiling - complete comfort for vacationers

We start warming the walls of the bath from the inside with surface preparation - we close up, isolate the cracks, treat wooden surfaces with solutions from mold, fungi, fire. The insulation pie has the following structure:

1. 1. We attach bars or a drywall profile to the wall;
2. 2. Between them we lay a heat insulator;
3. 3. We put a waterproofing layer on it;
4. 4. Wooden crate on top;
5. 5. Completes all finishing.

Before installing the crate, be sure to measure the width of the heat-insulating material. The specified dimensions do not always correspond to the actual ones, moreover, the edges could be somewhat deformed during transportation. We install the crate with a step slightly less than the width of the material so that it enters between the crate with little effort. In places of loose fit of the heat insulator, where gaps remain, cold penetrates and condensation forms. The height of the crate must correspond to the thickness of the thermal insulation.

Bars are attached to the wall, between which a heat insulator is laid

Between the bars tightly, avoiding gaps, we lay the insulation. If the distance is chosen correctly, the heat insulator is held on the wall without additional fastening, but stainless or hot-dip galvanized screws with washers can be used for safety. We seal the foil heat insulator at the joints with aluminum tape for tightness. We also seal the contact points of the insulation with the crate, capturing at least 5 cm of insulation and timber. Sealing joints is very important, moisture that has penetrated into the insulation layer greatly increases its thermal conductivity.

Warming the bath from the inside is not limited to a heat-insulating layer. We protect it from moisture - in the steam room and washing compartment it is better to use foil vapor barrier. which will also reflect heat. The room will heat up faster, heating costs will decrease, and the stove will last longer. For other rooms, you can use a different material. We lay the strips, overlapping one another by 5 cm, fasten them with staples using a stapler. We cover the joints and places of clogging the staples with foil tape. We do not leave a gap between the insulation and the vapor barrier layer.

We attach a crate of wooden planks of 20 mm thickness to the bars for mounting the lining. The thickness is selected to provide a gap between the crate and the vapor barrier. We fix the crate vertically so that condensate can drain between the vapor barrier layer and the lining, then it will last longer.

To ensure a stack of condensate, we fasten the crate on the walls horizontally, under the lining - vertically, the finishing layer will be horizontal.

Ceiling insulation is no different from wall insulation, except that we start working with the ceiling earlier than with the walls. Some features of ceiling insulation should be borne in mind. Since most of the heat is collected at the top, we make the thermal insulation layer thicker than on the walls. We provide a small overlap of insulating layers on the walls. When thermally insulating the walls, we put it on the wall material, glue the joints with foil tape.

Windows and doors - have you forgotten about them?

A significant proportion of heat also escapes through leaky windows and doors. We make the door for the steam room small, with the minimum allowable dimensions. We raise the threshold above the floor level by 25 cm to block the path of cold air from the adjacent room. We make the door leaf from wood, we tightly adjust the boards. Additionally, doors can be insulated like walls. door frame and seal the canvas so that there are no gaps.

We do not make large windows in the bathhouse, with the exception of the rest room. The frames must be double glazed so that the air inside serves as a heat insulator. We install the glass on a sealant, it turns out a double-glazed window impenetrable to cold air. The gaps between the opening and the frame are securely sealed with mineral wool, and a layer of waterproofing is applied on top.

We hope the article dispelled the erroneous opinion that the thermal insulation of the bath is a simple matter. It turns out that it has its own specifics, first of all it concerns the choice of materials and installation. Once again, we pay attention to the reliable sealing of all layers. If you do the work carefully, adhering to the advice, the bath will bring real pleasure from being in it.

How to insulate the bath from the inside with your own hands?

Warming the bath from the inside is an important stage in the construction of this specific structure. First of all, special attention is paid to the ceiling and floor of the log bath.

How to properly insulate a bath from the inside

Insulation of the bath from the inside is also necessary because this building must maintain a constantly high temperature inside its walls for a long time.

Therefore, before insulating the bath from the inside, you need to carefully study this issue and prevent heat loss from occurring.

1 Features of warming the bath

It is worth considering that the service life of a wooden bath, erected by one's own hands, in the event of significant heat loss, is rapidly declining.

If you do not do the waterproofing of the walls and the dressing room with your own hands, then an overestimated level of humidity will constantly be observed inside, heaters for the sauna and bath will help to avoid this.

This can lead to sad consequences, for example, the logs will slowly rot, which will lead to the appearance of unpleasant odors within the dressing room.

At present, it is important to insulate the bath, and especially the dressing room, using expanded clay concrete blocks or wooden beam, thermal insulation of baths and saunas using these materials is quite effective.

Before that, you can consider the issue of amending the brickwork, if it has defects in some places. Particular attention is paid to the thermal insulation of the dressing room and walls, do not forget about the warming of the steam room with your own hands.

The heat-insulating layer can be combined with the use of expanded clay concrete blocks. To ensure the thermal insulation of the dressing room with your own hands in the room, before the floor is installed, the soil is excavated to a depth equal to 50 centimeters, oriented to the expected level of the finished floor.

On top of the foam, a sand-cement mixture is poured, this is especially important if the bathhouse and the walls of the dressing room are built of brick with their own hands.

For insulation of brickwork, foam chips can be used, the thickness of which should be 50 millimeters.

The scheme, with an orientation towards which the insulation is made, allows the use of vermiculite, the thickness of which must correspond to the thickness of the brickwork.

1.1 Waterproofing a bath from a bar

On top of the mortar, which fills the space between the brickwork with your own hands, the reinforcing mesh is fixed, which is equipped with cells of 100 × 100 millimeters.

Laying wooden floors with holes made in them for the outflow of water are laid only after the cement mortar has completely hardened.

In most cases, the waterproofing layer is formed in the space between the vermiculite-enriched mortar layer and the concrete layer.

According to this principle, waterproofing works inside brick walls. The technology changes somewhat if the bath is built using timber.

If the bath is built from timber, then the use of expanded clay concrete blocks is acceptable, while the material of the walls does not have a particular effect on the process. In this case, any insulation for the walls of the bath can be chosen.

Bath warming in progress

After that, the upper part of the flooring can be equipped with electric heated floors to create the most comfortable conditions in a log sauna.

At the base of the structure, you can lay a line that provides autonomous heating. If there is no need to install a wooden floor in a log bath, then the use of warm floors will be most relevant.

On top of the timber, which can cover the floor, you can lay the most suitable material. For example, it can be a tile that is laid on top of a concrete base. Removable wooden gratings can be placed on top of the floor.

2 Insulation of the walls of the steam room

Even if the bath was insulated with the help of expanded clay concrete blocks, then after two or three years it can shrink by 100-200 millimeters.

This is especially likely if wooden beams or logs served as the main material for the manufacture of walls. Here, the main indicators directly depend on the degree of moisture resistance of the building material.

At present, in addition to expanded clay concrete blocks, such an alternative material as eurolining can be used. The selection of insulation for the bath, you can start with this material.

Eurolining is made of valuable tree species. The indicators of expanded clay blocks here are inferior to the presented finishing material. Consider as an alternative to Rockwool Sauna Butts for a bath.

When sheathing with such material, a number of unforeseen difficulties may arise, this may be due to inaccurate observance of the technology for mounting the crate, on which the lining is subsequently attached.

It is not recommended to nail the frame of the crate to the logs with ordinary nails and thus fasten the lining to the crate. Do-it-yourself thermal insulation of the bath with the implementation of this method is very durable.

Insulation of the bath from the inside - walls, floor, ceiling

This combination can greatly interfere with the natural process of shrinkage. This will lead to cracks and chips in the structure of the material, which in turn will negatively affect the amount of heat in the bath. In addition, other finishing methods based on:

• The use of grooves for fastening the crate;
• Using a layer of fiberglass;
• Application of aluminum foil;
• The use of nails.

The grooves can reach a length of 15-20 centimeters and are sawn on the edges of those rails that are intended to form the crate.

An electric jigsaw can help with this, which cuts at a distance of 50 centimeters. Nails can also be driven into the slots of the rails, which will lead to a reliable fixation of the structure and stop the shrinkage of the bath.

2.1 How to properly insulate the ceiling?

Warming the ceiling of the bath consists of several stages. First, a pre-prepared layer of fiberglass lies on top of the draft ceiling layer.

This is feasible if you plan to create a completely wooden coating. After that, a layer is created from a clay-sand layer, which must necessarily include sawdust from finely chopped straw. This solution is poured over the prepared fiberglass.

The layer thickness can reach 30 centimeters, then a clay-sand mortar is poured, which can include vermiculite.

The thickness of the filling of such a solution should be equal to 50 millimeters. Depending on the weather conditions, the solution can dry out within two to three weeks.

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath

After its final drying, a foam plate is placed on top, with a thickness parameter of 100-150 millimeters.

On top of the foam, a final layer of cement-sand mortar is poured, which can be mixed with some foam plastic.

In the event that it is planned to cover roofing material or roofing felts on top of the heat-insulating layer, then it is possible to plan the construction of an attic room.

The fastening of the laths of the crate is carried out with an orientation to a gap equal to 500 millimeters. This is carried out in the lowest part of the ceiling covering under the surface of the rough board.

2.2 The choice of thermal insulation material for the bath floor

Currently very popular the following materials designed for warming the floor of the bath:

Materials such as expanded clay and slag are in most cases used to provide insulation for wooden floors.

Expanded clay has a rather low cost, because its use is economically feasible. It is distinguished by a high degree of environmental cleanliness and is extremely successful in enduring mechanical loads and sudden changes in temperature.

However, the thickness of the layer of such material should be equal to 20 centimeters. The process of floor insulation with the participation of expanded clay and slag is quite laborious.

Warming the walls of the bath from the inside yourself

For better performance, different slag fractions should be used in combination with expanded clay. Styrofoam also serves as an effective floor insulation. Insulation for saunas and baths Izover Sauna serves as a good alternative to it.

It is incredibly easy to use and quite affordable. For the production of such insulation material, a foamed plastic mixture is used.

By the way, when conducting laboratory studies, it turned out that the emerging convection flows cannot occur in the same cell of the foam.

It is important to know that any kind of foam will not work to create a heat-insulating layer. So, for example, under the influence of evaporation from the layers of some paintwork materials the structure of expanded polystyrene can undergo rapid destruction.

For wooden floors, so-called wood wool can often be used. It is able to create a heat-insulating layer not only on a wooden surface, but also on concrete.

Special mats can be used for this. This material is able to provide effective insulation, and its installation does not require the involvement of additional equipment and complex manipulations.

Ordinary ceramic tiles can also serve not only as a finishing material, but also as a good way to insulate the floor. Such a product can only be used in those baths that are equipped with concrete floors.

How and with what to insulate the bath from the inside with your own hands?

Why is insulating a bathhouse from the inside a good idea?

Speaking about the bath, it should be noted that it is dominated by a unique microclimate. When arranging this structure, an important point is creation of high-quality thermal insulation. Having decided to insulate the walls and ceiling in the bath with your own hands, you need to be prepared for the fact that this work will require a lot of effort. However, with a strong desire and the availability of time, you can easily cope with this task.

When performing thermal insulation of a steam room, the following factors must be taken into account:

• material that is used to warm the bath from the inside;
• knowledge and skills of the owner, own desire.

When choosing a material for warming a bath, it is necessary to focus on the characteristics of the insulation. It is worth knowing that not all materials are suitable for warming a bath.

Suitable heaters for this structure are those that have the following properties:

The whole variety of heaters currently offered on the market can be divided into two types:

If you want the bath to be insulated with eco-friendly materials, then when choosing, you should pay attention to natural heaters. They are made based on organic components. These include:

These materials have many advantages, but they also have certain disadvantages. If they are not treated with special compounds, then during the operation of the bath, mold and insects will appear on such insulation.

In order for the insulation of the bath from the inside to turn into a simple process, it is necessary to use materials of artificial origin during the work. They have many important advantages. They are resistant to fire, are not subject to rotting processes, and provide effective vapor barrier. Work on the installation of such materials does not require much time. In this they are superior to natural heaters.

Materials for warming the bath from the inside

When purchasing a thermal insulation material, it is necessary to make a choice not only in favor of natural or artificial insulation. At the stage of buying material, you need to take into account a number of other factors:

Classification of heaters

Based on factors such as mechanical properties of the material. then all the materials that can be used to insulate the walls of the bath inside can be divided into the following types:

• backfills of various densities;
• mats and fibers;
• wall blocks and slabs.

For a setting such as chemical composition of the material. all heaters are divided into the following types:

• organic. These include ecowool, fibrolite;
• inorganic substances. The group of these materials includes mineral wool, glass wool from basalt fiber;
• techno heaters. These include a technoblock and a technologist;
• insulators made on the basis of plastics. These include polystyrene and expanded polystyrene.

Each of these materials has its pros and cons. For example, when insulating a steam room, it is better to abandon the use of plastic-based heat-insulating materials. This is due to the fact that such heaters under the influence of high temperature flammable. However, they can be used for thermal insulation of other rooms in the bath. They are perfect for warming the dressing room or rest room.

Materials based on organic substances are distinguished by their environmental friendliness and affordable price. However, they are also highly flammable unless treated with special formulations.

Materials for vapor barrier from the inside

There is a whole group of materials that are suitable for bath vapor barrier.

When working on the vapor barrier of a steam room, refuse to use roofing material and glassine. This is due to the fact that under the influence of high temperatures, these materials begin to release chemicals. When insulating baths, glassine is often used. Aluminum foil is often used in conjunction with lining, and mineral wool is widely used in log cabins.

How to insulate a bath with your own hands from the inside?

Quite common at present is the scheme of insulation using fiber-based heat insulators. The technology of warming the bath from the inside involves the following work.

First, you need to create a frame on the surface of the insulated wall. To do this, it performs fastening of the lathing from the beams. which are placed horizontally and vertically. Note that the timber should exceed the insulation by 20-30 mm in thickness.

Next, the wall is sheathed with mineral wool. When the material is installed, a layer of vapor barrier is applied. Most often, foil material is used to create it. Note that its overlay must be overlapped. The joints of the material must be sealed with thin slats. A distance of about 3 cm must remain between the layers of vapor barrier and mineral wool.

The effectiveness of this method is quite high, since it has been used to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside for quite a long time. However, you should be aware that, having made a choice in favor of this option of thermal insulation, you will have to spend a lot of effort on creating a high-quality insulation design. Modern materials offered on the market will reduce the complexity of such insulation. Often materials for insulation combine several properties at once: they provide effective insulation and waterproofing. Foil foam is just such a material. It is characterized by high resistance to fire. In addition, it provides convenience during operation and during installation.

The scheme that was described above is ideal for baths built from timber. Insulation of frame walls and panel-type buildings has its own characteristics. If the walls in the bath are panel, then the choice is made in favor of light materials. The most commonly used polystyrene foam, reed plates, mineral wool. The processing of the heat insulator in this case is a mandatory requirement. As a composition to protect it from harmful negative factors, use milk of lime followed by drying. The use of such protection will exclude the occurrence of decay processes. In addition, the resistance of the material to fire will increase.

If the bath has frame walls, then in cold climates, when it is insulated, plates made of fiberboard or reeds are used. In areas with a mild climate, the choice is made in favor of gypsum, sawdust. For wall insulation, for example, a mixture of sawdust and gypsum can be used. The material is taken in a ratio of 1:10. The finished mixture is poured between the walls and the sheathing with a layer of 200 mm.

Ceiling insulation in the steam room of the bath

Work on the creation of thermal protection in the bath completes the insulation of the ceiling. The complexity and procedure for carrying out work depends on the design of the ceiling itself. It can be with or without an attic.

In the event that the bath has an attic or attic, then the insulation process should proceed as follows: board coated with clay with a layer of 20 cm. This material does a good job of retaining moisture. Wood chips must be filled in the cracks between the boards. If they are not available, then you can use any other material that provides good thermal insulation. For example, you can backfill with expanded clay. But the thickness of the layer of this material must be at least 200 mm.

Warming a bath without an attic

A bath without an attic, made of logs or representing a panel building, must be insulated inside in a completely different way:

first, the material for the vapor barrier is laid, then the insulation is attached, on which the beam beam is sewn. After nailed shelf boards .

When insulating the ceiling of the bath, special attention must be paid to the junction of the pipe and insulation. So that fire safety standards are not violated, it is necessary to make an indent of 200 mm between the pipe and the heat-insulating material. This problem is easily solved by creating a box of rafter legs. It will be a barrier separating the pipe and insulation. Inside the box, the space can be filled with fire-resistant insulation, for example, stone wool.

It is optimal if the roof of the bath is designed in such a way that there are no places through which it can leave the room. warm air and outside to penetrate the cold. Ceiling insulation has another goal - avoid condensation. Condensation is converted into moisture, which, in turn, is the main enemy for most building materials.

Note that not all materials are suitable for ceiling insulation work. It is worth refusing to use materials such as chipboard, plywood, fiberboard for thermal insulation. They can not only deform during operation, but also release substances harmful to human health under the influence of high temperatures.

Conclusion

Thermal insulation of the bath from the inside is an important work that every owner of this facility who wants to visit the bath and not face discomfort should do. Although this work is not easy, but everyone can do it. If you have the time and the necessary knowledge on how to properly insulate the bath from the inside, then by choosing the right materials and following the advice of experienced craftsmen, you can create high-quality thermal protection. After the insulation has been carried out, you will enjoy every visit to the bath. There will be no cold in the building, it will warm up quickly, and fuel costs will be minimal.

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the inside

It happens that you go to the bathhouse with a desire to relax, not only to bathe corny, but also to get rid of the burden of problems and worries, and as a result, either the temperature does not hold at all, or it is impossible to bathe, or, on the contrary, the heat is unbearable and there is practically nothing to breathe. In this case, of course, there can be no talk of any pleasure, visiting the bath turns into a complete hassle. The main reason for the uncomfortable microclimate in the bath is considered to be improper thermal insulation. It is she who is responsible for maintaining a certain temperature in the premises, as well as for saving the fuel necessary to heat the bath.

Popular misconceptions

Most people do not pay due attention to thermal insulation, believing that it is enough to simply upholster the walls with insulating material. In fact, warming a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands is a rather complicated process, requiring many factors to be taken into account.

Sometimes an excessive desire for naturalness and naturalness plays a bad role. In pursuit of environmental cleanliness, the owner of the bathhouse decides to insulate it with moss. Indeed, this is a product of natural origin, but when used in rooms with high humidity it quickly rots, not only emitting unpleasant odors, but also quickly infecting the tree with rot.

Bath insulation materials

If we have already begun to talk about the fact that some heat insulators are not suitable for a bath, one cannot fail to say what can be used, and what are the pros and cons of other materials.

1. Mineral heaters (basalt fiber, mineral and glass wool) are ideal for warming a bath. As a rule, they are produced in the form of plates or mats. Such materials have a very high durability, they are moisture-proof and fire-resistant, and absolutely not subject to decay. Most often, the warming of the bath from the inside is carried out with the help of them.
2. Organic materials (arbolite, fiberboard and others) are made from peat, reeds or wood waste. Usually these are the slabs of the most different sizes which can be used even in climates with very low temperatures. Unfortunately, despite the high thermal insulation properties and its low cost, such a heater is not recommended for use in baths, as it ignites quickly. True, now there are many substances on the market, after processing with which both fibrolite, and reeds, and other organic heat insulators become fireproof, but still it is better not to take risks and not at least insulate the walls of steam rooms with them.
3. Plastic-based materials (styrofoam, expanded polystyrene) are well suited for dressing rooms and rest rooms, but they are not recommended for use in steam rooms, again due to high flammability.

Well, in conclusion, a few words about materials for vapor barrier, which will also be needed when warming the bath. The roofing material and glassine most commonly used for this purpose are used for interior spaces baths are not worth it, because when heated, these materials release toxic substances, which, under conditions of high humidity, very quickly enter the human body through the lungs. It is best to use aluminum foil or immediately foil-coated heat-insulating boards. The use of foil significantly reduces energy costs for maintaining a comfortable temperature in the bath due to the shiny surface, which perfectly reflects heat back into the room.

Warming the bath from the inside

The insulation of a brick bath from the inside is almost no different from the insulation of timber or log buildings, so in this article we will not separate them. To facilitate understanding, we will give a description of the warming of the bath from the inside of the photo, allowing you to understand certain details of the process.

Bath floor insulation

Warming the bath from the inside, the scheme of work, which is considered traditional, recommends starting from the floor. This will not only reduce the degree of displacement of warm air by cold air rising from below, but will also add comfort. Agree, it is much more pleasant to walk on a warm floor, especially in a hot steam room.

In baths, one of two types of floors is usually laid: solid and leaking. The designs are completely different, so it is not surprising that each type of insulation has its own characteristics.

1. When installing solid floors, insulation (most often it is mineral wool) is laid on a rough plank floor and covered with a waterproofing layer so that its edges are on the walls. After that, you can proceed to the installation of the finished floor.
2. When installing leaking floors, it is necessary to dig a pit to a depth of approximately 500 mm. Then it is filled with 50 mm sand, which must be carefully compacted. Styrofoam slabs 200 mm high are laid on this layer as a heater. They, in turn, are filled with a layer of cement with the addition of foam chips 1: 1 - 50 mm. Waterproofing is laid on the concrete overlapping the walls. In this case, you can also use ruberoid. Being on the floor, this material does not heat up to a temperature at which it releases toxic substances. The next layer is again a layer of cement, but with the addition of vermiculite in the same ratio of 1: 1 - 50 mm. After spreading the reinforcing mesh, the floors are poured with concrete with the addition of fine gravel to a height of 50 mm, and at this stage a slope towards the drain is provided. Now you can lay the finishing floors on the posts.

Bath wall and ceiling insulation

It is best to insulate both of these elements of the structure at the same time, since the technology for laying thermal insulation from the inside is practically the same for them.

So, consider the insulation on the example of a steam room. First, a crate of 50x50 timber must be applied to the walls and ceiling, while the distance between the timbers should be slightly less than the width of the insulation. This is done so that, having straightened out in the resulting niches, the material takes its place more tightly, without the formation of “cold bridges”. Basalt or mineral fiber slabs are best suited for this purpose.

After laying the heat insulator, it must be covered with a vapor barrier material. In principle, you can use anyone, but foil cloth or any other vapor barrier trimmed with foil is best suited for baths. bouncing off mirror surface warm air will return to the room. Now you can proceed to the interior lining.

Tip: It is imperative to lay foil vapor barrier materials with the reflective side inside the bath.

Important: The vapor barrier is not located between the bars, but is attached directly to them.

In other rooms of the bath, internal insulation is carried out in a similar way. The only difference is that you can use heat-insulating materials with weaker characteristics, and also use thick kraft wrapping paper instead of foil.

Tip: Since brick or cinder block baths are characterized by large heat losses, the thickness of the basalt fiber should be increased during their insulation.

All more masters prefer foil foam. This insulation is immediately covered with metallized lavsan or foil and at the same time is a vapor barrier.

The video clip below will give complete and comprehensive information on how to properly insulate the bath from the inside.

Scheme of the "pie" of warming the walls of the bath from the inside

Before starting work, be sure to eliminate all the flaws: close up and insulate the cracks, treat the walls with flame retardants and antiseptics, if you see fit, check the tightness of the joints, etc. After finishing preparatory work you can proceed with the installation of thermal insulation.

The pie itself general case looks like that:

• a wall on which bars are stuffed;
• heat insulator laid between the bars;
• vapor barrier;
• a crate of slats that holds materials and serves to mount the finish.

Bath wall insulation scheme

Step 1. A crate of bars is attached to the walls into which a heat insulator is tightly inserted. The thickness of the bars should correspond to the thickness of the thermal insulation. A vapor barrier is attached to the bars, which, as a rule, use aluminum foil. After the foil, a crate is attached under the lining with a thickness of 20-3 ohm, and then the walls are sheathed with a lining.

1. It is not necessary to leave a gap between the insulation and aluminum foil in the bath;
2. It is desirable to leave a gap between the aluminum foil (or other foil material) and the lining so that the condensate can flow down freely. Otherwise, the lining will rot very quickly.

Between the bars we tightly lay the heat insulator. The thickness of the insulation corresponds to the thickness of the bars

You also need to decide on the direction in which the bars will be nailed to the wall. They can be nailed vertically and horizontally. And there is constant debate about how best to do it. Some builders claim that with a horizontal location of the heat insulator, and hence the bars, there is less heat loss. Their opponents say that vertical arrangement better ventilation. More importantly, everyone chooses for himself, as well as whether or not the bars need to be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.

Advice! It makes sense to think not about how to fix the bars, but first of all about how the lining will be attached: horizontally or vertically. It is more practical to mount the lining horizontally. In this case, the condensate, which will inevitably form on the vapor barrier, will be able to flow down unhindered, so the crate under the lining will be mounted vertically.

The step of stuffing the bars, under the insulation, is determined by the width of the selected heat insulator: the distance between the bars should be approximately 1 cm less than the actual width of the insulation(in this case, the insulation will fit snugly against the bars).

Advice! Be sure to measure the width of the insulation before attaching the bars. Do not trust the data on the packaging: firstly, there may be factory deviations, and secondly, during storage and transportation, the edges may wrinkle, thereby reducing the actual width. Any gap and loosely fitting heat insulator is a place where cold will penetrate and condensation will form. These areas are also called cold bridges.

Step 2 Between the stuffed bars, tightly, without gaps, with little effort, a heater is laid. With the right distance between the bars, the heat insulator holds itself well, but to be sure, you can fix it with hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel screws and washers of large diameter.

If a foil heat insulator is chosen, to ensure tightness, close each connection with a patch of aluminum tape, and on top you need to fix another piece of adhesive-backed foil - tightness is very important: most heat insulators lose their properties in the presence of moisture. For example, the thermal conductivity of wet basalt wool is much greater than dry. For this reason, the insulation must not be allowed to get wet.

Also, carefully in this case, you need to approach the sealing of the joints of the foil insulation and the bars: they need to be glued with the same foil tape, ensuring that they enter at least 5 cm both on the insulation and on the bar.

Joints must be sealed with aluminum tape.

For a steam room, foil is considered the best material to prevent moisture from penetrating into the insulation. It not only retains moisture well, but also reflects heat back into the room, greatly reducing its loss. If you choose such a material, the time required to heat the room will significantly decrease, the costs of maintaining the required temperature will decrease, the stove will work in a more gentle mode, which means it will last longer.

In other rooms, you can lay any other material that is suitable for performance.

The strips of the selected material are laid so that they overlap by at least 5 cm. All joints are additionally carefully glued with foil tape, which is sold in the same place as the vapor barrier. Attach it to the bars with staples and a construction stapler. To maintain tightness and prevent steam from entering the thermal insulation, it is advisable to glue the joints with the same foil tape.

When insulating the ceiling, there should be a "sunset" of the heat and vapor barrier on the walls. When installing wall insulation, put it on top of the wall “pie”, and then carefully seal the joints (use foil tape again).

Step 3 After the installation of the "pie" is completed, a crate of planks is stuffed onto the protruding bars. It will hold the materials, and will also serve as the basis for attaching the interior trim.

This is how the wall may look after the completion of all work: 1 - insulation, 2 - vapor barrier, 3 - lining

Features of wall insulation from different materials

The technology and sequence of insulation layers remains virtually unchanged for various rooms and types of buildings. Only some parameters can be changed. For example, for a steam room, the thickness of the insulation is recommended twice as much as for other rooms. this is where it's important to keep warm. maximum amount time.

The thickness of the insulation also differs for buildings made of different materials. A log bath itself holds heat well, and when finishing all rooms except the steam room, you can do without insulation at all, or choose a material of small thickness - if the winters in your region are harsh.

Insulation of the walls of a brick bath from the inside practically no different, except for the methods of fastening: it is more difficult to hammer nails into a brick wall, you can use dowels. You can use galvanized profiles instead of wooden bars, but when buying them, pay attention to whether they are suitable for use in rooms with high humidity. And with the choice of sizes it is much more difficult here: there are not so many standard sizes, and metal can become a conductor of cold. Insulation of the brick walls of the bath from the inside implies a greater thickness of thermal insulation than in a log bath: minimum - 10cm. but this parameter depends on many factors: wall thickness, outer insulation, region, etc.

Insulation of the walls of the bath from foam blocks the composition of the "pie" is no different. The whole difficulty is that this material does not hold fasteners well, even special ones. It is no better than he tolerates excessive loads. Therefore, when choosing materials, pay attention to their weight. It should be one of the decisive factors.

The foam block does not hold fasteners well

The fastening of the crate must be done so that the main load falls on the floor, and not on the walls. To do this, you can make U-shaped structures that are attached to the floor and ceiling, just fix their position in the walls with a pair of dowels.

Advice! To further reduce the load on foam concrete walls, you can not fasten the planks tightly to the wall, but make clamps from pieces of galvanized steel that will only hold the slats in a vertical state. The entire load will be on the floor.

The insulation between the slats should be laid tightly, and you can fix it so that it does not fall with the help of a thread and a stapler (shoot the thread to the slats). A vapor barrier or vapor barrier can also be attached to the planks with staples, but do not forget to overlap the panels, glue and seal the joints with foil tape, and cover the staples with patches.

The last stage of warming the walls of the bath from foam blocks is the installation of the crate for interior decoration. This is a similar frame of U-shaped sections, the load from which is distributed mainly on the floor. This frame is attached to the first one in several places to the bars.

This is just one solution that allows you to insulate the walls of the bath from foam blocks, but it is simple in execution and quite reliable.

Bath insulation materials

The choice of material for insulation is a rather complicated process: it is necessary to take into account not only the technical characteristics of heaters, but also their environmental friendliness, harmlessness, and fire safety. It is especially problematic to correctly select a heater for a steam room, since it has not only high humidity, but also high temperature, which causes the release of toxic substances from some types of heaters.

Classic mineral wool

Not so long ago, almost everyone advised using mineral wool to insulate the bath, but recent studies have shown that in production, a composition containing phenol-formaldehyde resins. They have a harmful effect on a person, are a carcinogen, which in itself is unacceptable, and in a bath or sauna with its high temperature, it is generally very dangerous. Yes, the certificates indicate that the release of these substances does not exceed the threshold, but do you need it?

Even Rockwool or TechnoNIKOL basalt wool, any other mineral wool from well-known or not manufacturers, emits phenol-formaldehyde substances. In general, according to physicians and experts, any mineral wool is harmful to health. In this regard, the question arises: "what is the best way to insulate the bath?". There are several materials about which there are no negative opinions. Anyway, until...

Mineral heaters of a new generation

URSA PUREONE material is presented as a new generation of mineral insulation. Acrylic is used as a binder - a chemically neutral substance that does not react with other substances and does not emit harmful substances under any operating conditions.

Material URSA PUREONE - one of the harmless heaters

The safety of URSA PUREONE has been confirmed by the EcoStandard group (classified as an M1 material by Eurofins, EUCEB certified).

Certificate issued by URSA PUREONE -

Heaters made of glass, peat and paper

FOAMGLAS® foam glass is foamed glass. It does not burn, does not lose its properties over time, is stable in shape, environmentally friendly and safe. Its only drawback: the high price and rather large weight.

There are also peat-based heaters - peat blocks . Crushed peat is soaked with water, filler is added - straw, sawdust, etc. blocks are formed from the resulting porridge-like mass, which are used as heat and sound insulators. The resulting material not only reduces heat loss, but is also a "breathable" material - it absorbs well and also releases moisture well, has a bacteriostatic effect, does not burn or rot.

Peat block is not the most popular material yet

Despite all positive traits peat blocks are not the most common material, and there are few manufacturers of this material. The most famous is the GeoKar enterprise from Tver. If all the declared qualities are confirmed, then this is a good alternative to mineral wool.

There is also such a thermal insulator as ecowool . It is a cellulose substance for the most part consisting of recycled newspapers, to which are added safe (according to the manufacturers) fire retardants - boric acid and borax salts. Everything would be fine, but this material strongly absorbs moisture, and is not suitable for thermal insulation of the bath .

Wood fiber boards - are made from crushed wood chips, but using a different technology than the well-known fiberboard - without chemical binders. The chips are ground, diluted with water, distributed over the grid. The mass simply dries, after which it is cut into canvases.

Among the safe heaters, one can also name natural heaters made of flax, wool, moss, reeds. Use as a warming material and sawdust, reeds and straw. But all these substances are combustible, and without treatment with special compounds they cannot be used to warm the bath.

Modern foil insulation

In this article, we could not help but talk about what modern insulation materials used by the Finns in the construction of saunas. Hot finnish guys use insulation boards SPU Sauna Satu. specially designed for wall and ceiling insulation in the sauna.

SPU Sauna Satu slabs are made of polyurethane foam and have an aluminum laminate coating on both sides.

SPU Sauna-Satu cooker

SPU Sauna Satu slabs can be attached to walls even without battens.

At the moment, it is the SPU Sauna Satu boards that can be attributed to the most suitable heaters for baths and saunas.

The main problems of warming the bath are associated with the warming of the steam room, since it has not only very high humidity, but also high temperature. Under the influence of high temperature, many heaters begin to release toxic substances which may be harmful to human health. For this reason, it is necessary to carefully choose mineral wool insulation, as many of them contain phenol-formaldehyde resins that act as a binder.

Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene should not be used as a heater, which, when heated to 60 degrees Celsius, begin to release toxic substances.

In fairness, it should be noted that many natural materials that are harmless at normal temperatures, when heated, can release substances that can harm human health.

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the inside

Warming the bath from the inside with your own hands Warming the bath - what you need for work Warming the bath from the inside with your own hands will save money on work and heating. In a comfortable bath

Do-it-yourself warming of a wooden bath

One of the main characteristics of the bath is how quickly it warms up. The bath should warm up quickly, the steam room should maintain a high temperature for a sufficiently long time. The comfort of staying in the bath depends on this. Its economy largely depends on this, since it takes much less fuel to heat up the bath.

Insulation of the ceiling of the bath should include: decorative trim(lining), reflective waterproofing, insulation (mineral wool), crate and vapor insulation.

Given all this, the insulation of the bath is very important, and the quality of the material does not matter. Is it possible to insulate the bath with your own hands? And how to do it right? Before answering this question, it should be borne in mind that insulation is a special procedure. This is due to the fact that not quite the usual humidity and temperature regime is maintained indoors for a long time. That is, the insulation must have a certain number of different properties.

If we talk about the qualities of a heater, then it must first of all be resistant to moisture. It must not disintegrate on contact with liquid. The insulation must be resistant to elevated temperatures, under their influence it should not be formed.

The scheme of insulation of the walls of a wooden bath.

As you know, a residential building will be insulated from the outside, and the warming of the bath should be carried out from the inside. Definitely warming the bath from the inside contributes to the internal preservation of the desired degree of moisture, that is, the temperature in the steam room.

At the same time, it should be borne in mind that the foundation of the bath is lined with mats that are made of mineral wool from the inside, and the density of such material should be increased from the inside, and not from the outside. In order not to get confused in this, you should tell in more detail about all the works. If all this is taken into account, then warming the bath with your own hands will not be a big problem.

On the surface from the inside, a crate should be made. It is necessary to fix a heater to it, which is moisture resistant. It is very important that the seams between the plates are properly sealed. To achieve this, it is recommended to use aluminum tape. When the insulating layer was finally done, it was the turn to apply a rolled vapor barrier. All this must be done with the utmost care, then everything will work out.

When the heat and vapor barrier is completely ready, you can start finishing the bath. For these purposes, a lining is used, which is made of wood. It should be borne in mind that such material is the most suitable for sheathing a wooden bath.

The scheme of floor insulation in the bath.

Now it is necessary to take into account the materials that can be used in this case. They fall into two categories: organic and material. The first type includes different kind materials that are made on the basis of mineral wool. Such materials include whole line advantages: very long service life, very high resistance to decay and increased resistance to moisture. It should be noted an increased degree of fire hazard, which is a very important factor for wooden baths.

A separate group of materials for warming the bath consists of various kinds of foams (polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, and so on). But it should be borne in mind that certain materials of this category during operation in a certain temperature regime can deform and release gases, which negatively affects the state of health. If materials made of polystyrene are chosen for warming a bath or sauna, then they should be chosen with great care. When such insulation materials are purchased, special attention should be paid to whether there are appropriate sanitary and hygienic certificates.

The best organic heaters are made on the basis of wood waste, reeds or peat. In this regard, the most common materials are reeds and fibrolite. When using such materials, financial costs are significantly reduced. It should be borne in mind that such insulation materials can only be used where in winter time the outside air temperature cannot fall below 17 degrees. In order to reduce the fire hazard of such materials, it is imperative to protect them from fungus. To do this, the plates must be treated with a special compound.

The scheme of the features of the insulation of the ceiling of the bath.

As for materials that are made on an organic basis (wood fiber and chipboard), they can only be used to insulate the dressing room.

Organic slabs, which have heat-insulating properties, can be made by hand.

You need to get for this small chips, shavings or sawdust. They must be mixed with lime or cement mortar, then they are laid in the formwork of the appropriate shape and height. It is very important to pack them as tightly as possible. After the mass hardens, excellent heat-insulating plates are obtained, which have a low cost.

In order to vaporize the steam room, it is best to use foil. It can also be replaced by other materials, for example, nanoisol or isospan. But it should be borne in mind that the cost of such materials is quite high, which will negatively affect the budget. You can save a lot of money without sacrificing quality. You can use the most common polyethylene film as a vapor barrier, its density must be at least 140 microns.

To insulate a bath, it is permissible to use a variety of materials; there are many of them on sale today. When it comes to warming the bath from the inside, it is recommended to use materials that combine 2 properties: retain heat and vapor barrier the room.

The most common material in this regard is foamed polypropylene; foil must be applied to its surface. The fact is that such material perfectly withstands temperatures up to 150 degrees. It is noteworthy that such a material does not undergo deformation under the influence of constant dampness. When such insulation materials are purchased, care should be taken to ensure that they are labeled “for sauna”. Similar materials can be used when warming the bath from the outside. And all this is done without much difficulty.

Additional Information

When insulating a bath, one should not forget that it is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the roof. The most effective way to prevent heat from escaping through the roof is to coat it with a mixture that is made from clay and sawdust.

The screed must be necessarily covered with a special roofing film, then you need to pour everything with peat, which must be mixed with sawdust.

If everything is done properly, then there is no doubt that all work will be completed successfully. In order to achieve this, you must strictly follow the instructions. If everything is done correctly, the result will exceed all expectations.

Recommendations for warming a wooden bath with your own hands. Materials and tools needed for this. Characteristics of materials. Additional Information.

Insulation of the bath from the inside: scheme and procedure

A visit to the bath is a healthy pastime that allows you to feel more energetic and younger. It is not surprising that the owners are happy to build this structure on their plots and dachas.

However, the simple erection of walls in this case does not end there. In order for the bath to be cozy at any time of the year, it will have to be correctly insulated from the inside.

What is it for?

The bath should have a special microclimate that gives a good healing effect. It is for its provision that walls and ceilings are insulated. Floors are insulated from the cold most often even at the construction stage. But the walls and ceiling can be dealt with a little later, at a convenient time for the owners.

Before starting work, you need to understand three important points for yourself:

• possession of building skills - for some, the process of warming is not a problem, others will experience tangible difficulties, since they faced such a task for the first time;
• financial capabilities are also an important factor, often a determining one;
• the choice of a suitable material, corresponding to both the financial possibilities and the building skills of a particular person.

Perhaps it would be easier to turn to specialists in this field and save your time and nerves? Each situation must be considered individually and the right decision must be made.

Warming solves the following problems:

• provides protection of the supporting structure from steam;
• prevents the penetration of water;
• increases the resistance of the structure to possible ignition.

And if an expensive and environmentally friendly material is chosen, this is another additional plus for the owners.

What material is suitable?

Warming is carried out both with the help of artificial and completely natural materials.. The natural origin of the insulation is a guarantee of the environmental friendliness of the building and its safety during operation. However, such material is often more expensive than artificial insulation.

Natural materials include cuckoo flax, sphagnum, hemp, tow, felt, moss. This is a safe choice that ensures the sustainability and authenticity of the building. But without proper processing, such building materials quickly rot, are attacked by rodents and insects. These shortcomings should be remembered at the selection stage!

Artificial building materials are easy to install, resistant to fire and biological effects. You can install them on the ceiling or walls much faster. The price of many artificial samples will be lower, as will the material consumption.

Nuances of choice

It is important to take into account other factors such as technical characteristics, purpose, appearance..

For sheathing baths from the inside and providing vapor barrier, they most often use:

Aluminum foil, which perfectly reflects heat into the room, thereby reducing energy consumption. This material can be used, among other things, for processing steam rooms.

Ruberoid- a fairly cheap material, which, nevertheless, cannot be called environmentally friendly. Under the influence of high temperatures, roofing material releases dangerous chemical compounds into the air. For this reason, it is not used in steam rooms.

Has similar qualities glassine. More often it is used for bath rooms in conjunction with other building materials. The ideal "pie" in this case looks like this: a log house - glassine - sheathing with mineral wool - installation of aluminum foil - lining.

The cheapest option is to use rolled polyethylene. This solution is suitable for country cottages where baths are operated with low intensity.

The chemical composition of the insulation is also important. The environmental characteristics of the bath room depend on it:

• plastics are used to make expanded polystyrene and polystyrene;
• technoblock and technovet are techno-heaters;
• basalt fiber, glass wool and mineral wool are classic inorganic materials;
• Wood concrete, ecowool and fibrolite are materials of organic (natural) origin.

By mechanical properties all building materials can be divided into backfills, blocks or slabs, mats and fibers.

Important Points

You should not start work if there are doubts about construction skills and the owner holds the tools for almost the first time in his life. The help of specialists in such a situation will be very appropriate.

In other cases, you can successfully use general recommendations and tips to avoid embarrassing mistakes.

When working with walls it is important:

1. Carefully treat the floors with special solutions that protect the wood from fungus, mold and decay.
2. Provide ventilation gaps. Through these technical holes, the insulation dries and it lasts longer.
3. Ensure that the installation is tight (to the walls). The closer the insulation material is to the wall, the less likely it is that cold air will inadvertently infiltrate and condensation will form.

Installation of insulation on the walls

And when working with ceilings, you must:

1. Do not choose materials made of plastic, as they collect a large amount of moisture.
2. Give preference to building materials that do not emit harmful substances when heated. Roofing material and glassine are prohibited.
3. Avoid materials subject to deformation. Under the influence of high temperatures and steam, such a heater will quickly sag.

Work order

When insulating walls, you can use the traditional construction scheme (it is ideal for baths built from timber):

1. At the first stage, a wooden frame is erected. For this, bars with a margin of thickness of 20-30 millimeters are used. Of these, a vertical and horizontal crate is mounted.
2. Then sheathing is performed with mineral wool or other selected material.
3. A vapor barrier layer is attached on top. For example, from foil. The material is overlapped, and all joints are reinforced with wooden slats.
4. At the final stage, a crate for lining is mounted. The distance between the lining and the layer of vapor barrier material provides the ventilation gap necessary for the structure.

For frame or panel construction of a building, typical for a cold climate, light building materials are suitable - polystyrene foam, reed slabs or mineral wool. In this case, the selected material is treated with lime milk, dried and placed in the interstitial space. In regions with a warmer climate, you can use backfills: sawdust, a mixture of cement (gypsum) and wood chips in a ratio of ten to one.

Also successfully used turnkey solutions- materials consisting of several layers and having all the necessary qualities. For example, foil-based foam, which simultaneously provides heat retention and reliable waterproofing.

An important point: all corners, joints in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindows and doors are treated with vapor barrier tape!

Ceiling work

Ceiling insulation completes the entire construction process. For this part of the structure, you can choose fiberboard, chipboard or plywood. Materials from plastic base it is better not to use it, especially in the steam room, where the temperature near the ceiling often reaches 160 degrees.

It is important to exclude places where warm air will break out and cold air will penetrate inside. Such gaps will become a weak point of the entire structure due to the abundant formation of condensed moisture.

The area near the pipe is insulated with a box, which is filled with stone wool. The distance from the main insulation to the hot pipe must be at least 200 millimeters so as not to violate fire safety standards!

The process of laying insulation will depend on the design of the ceilings..

If there is no attic, regardless of the material of the supporting structure, the following laying scheme is performed:

If there is an attic or attic, the ceiling boards are coated with clay, and the cracks are covered with wood chips. Expanded clay can also be used for backfilling. This ensures the thickness of the thermal insulation layer is not less than 20 centimeters.

How to insulate the bath from the inside with your own hands?

Insulation of baths from the inside: what is it for? What materials can be used, important points and subtleties of choice. The procedure for working with walls and ceilings, recommendations and advice.

How and how to insulate a bath, sauna, steam room from the inside and outside

Traditions, the healing effect of a bath, a utilitarian necessity or a way of organizing leisure time are some of the arguments in favor of having your own bath. Owners of private houses and country cottages, when equipping a bath, are faced in the process of construction and operation with such issues as the need to ensure the slow cooling of bath rooms. The solution lies in the thermal insulation of the walls, floor, ceiling of the bath. Let's see how to do it right.

Do I need to insulate the bath?

Yes, you need thermal insulation:

• helps to increase the inertia of the bath, as a result - it warms up longer, but it cools down much longer;
• minimizes heat consumption;
• reduces heating costs;
• ensures the achievement of an optimal microclimate;
• enhances moisture control;
• protects against biological activity (fungus, mold).

To get all these benefits, you need to take care of the proper insulation of the bath, sauna, steam room. At the same time, there are no obstacles for independent thermal insulation: the scope of work is small, the technology is not complicated, the material and tools are available. Recommendations and step-by-step instructions will help organize the process “from A to Z”, even for beginners with no experience in construction.

How to insulate a bath with your own hands

A detailed analysis of how and with what it is possible to insulate a bath, which side is better (inside or outside), where to start and how to finish.

1. From the position of the location of the insulation

• External insulation of the bath. When insulating a house, basement or garage, it has been proven that it is more effective to place heat-insulating material outside. This allows you to protect the material from which the bath is built. It is mandatory to insulate the roof of the bath (attic space), if it is a separate building.

• Warming the bath from the inside. The mode of operation of the bath is such that only external insulation, with all its advantages, cannot be dispensed with. Moreover, in different rooms of the bath it is necessary to maintain its own microclimate, humidity level and set temperature. Therefore, they begin to warm the bath from the inside. Moreover, suitable materials are chosen for each room, which in turn influence the choice of technology for their installation.

As you can see, the process of warming is complex.

2. From the standpoint of the heat-insulating material used

There are different types of heaters on the domestic construction market. Do not forget that a bath can provide a healing effect only if natural and safe heat-insulating materials are used indoors.

Insulation requirements:

• ecological purity. Under the influence of high temperatures and moisture, insulating materials can release toxic substances. Given the temperature and humidity conditions of the bath, this indicator must be treated carefully;
• hygroscopicity;
• thermal conductivity. The lower this indicator, the less the amount of heat passes through the material per unit of time;
• biological inertness;
• Fire safety;
• the ability to keep the shape;
• availability, cost and ease of installation.

How to insulate a bath inside and out

Consider which insulation for a sauna, steam room is better and meets the requirements put forward.

Organic thermal insulation materials

Known for a long time, even our ancestors sought to protect the heated bathhouse from heat loss using improvised means. The raw materials for the manufacture of organic heaters are natural materials. Among the common ones are:

• linen tow, plain and tarred;
• sawdust;
• felt or jute;
• reeds.

The undeniable advantage of these materials is naturalness. Among the shortcomings - fire hazard, ability to absorb moisture, complexity of use, attractiveness to rodents and microorganisms.

Semi-organic thermal insulation materials

Natural raw materials are used for production, however, in the production process, adhesive compositions, which excludes the warming of the steam room with their use. These include:

• reed plates (mats);
• chipboard;
• peat slabs.

Synthetic thermal insulation materials

They are manufactured under production conditions and are combined into two subspecies:

• polymeric. These include polystyrene, expanded polystyrene, penoizol, polyurethane foam. Thermal insulation of the bath with polystyrene foam or its derivatives cannot be carried out in the steam room and near the firebox, because. Styrofoam supports combustion, with strong heating, harmful styrene will be released. But for other rooms or external insulation, this material is indispensable.

An exception is the penoizol foil insulation, which is used in the steam room, due to the presence of an aluminum foil layer that prevents the loss of infrared thermal radiation. The use of penoizol is allowed by standards;

3. From the standpoint of the material from which the bath is built

When choosing insulation and a method of insulation, you need to take into account the material that was used to build the bath and the climatic features in the region. These conditions will determine the thickness of the insulation.

Warming of a wooden bath from a bar and a log

A newly built bathhouse (made of logs or timber) does not need to be insulated. Wood retains heat well, plus, interventional insulation performs a heat-insulating function. Over time, the log house shrinks and after two or three years gaps appear between the crowns, through which heat escapes.

When warming the log house important role plays waterproofing and the choice of heat insulator. It is recommended to carry out interventional caulking with natural materials or use basalt wool, because. thanks to its structure, it contributes to the preservation of the microclimate and allows the tree to "breathe".

Interventional insulation for timber - thermal insulation of a wooden bath

In addition to glued or profiled timber, round logs are used for the construction of a bath. Due to mechanical processing, such a log has less shrinkage, therefore, the requirements for insulation, in particular for the arrangement of the frame, are lower. In general, the insulation of a log house is carried out similarly to the thermal insulation of a bath from a bar.

Warming frame bath

The frame or skeleton provides excellent opportunities for the placement of thermal insulation material. frame structure considered the most energy efficient.

For warming a frame bath, it is better to use soft insulation high density, protected by membranes from moisture (laid inside the walls). An organic insulation can also be used, in particular a mixture of sawdust, wood chips, gypsum and lime. Such a composition serves as a full-fledged insulation (fits between the layers of the skin).

Warming frame walls baths with sawdust, wood chips and clay

Insulation of a brick bath

Despite the high thermal conductivity of bricks, baths from it are common. A serious drawback of brick is its ability to freeze quickly, and this leads to significant heating costs. Therefore, brick baths usually have an internal wooden frame that performs a decorative function, and heat-insulating material is perfectly placed behind it.

Insulation of a bath from foam blocks and gas blocks

Foam concrete or aerated concrete - materials used in modern construction baths. The advantage of cellular concrete is in a porous structure that holds heat well. But, this material has an unattractive appearance, plus, it is able to absorb moisture (especially aerated concrete, with its open pores). Since the wet wall material does not hold heat, the foam blocks need insulation, which is performed outside.

The peculiarity of the insulation of foam block baths (as well as from aerated concrete and expanded clay concrete blocks) is that the material requires a good ventilation device. Therefore, products are necessarily made in an insulated bath.

4. From the position of the front of the work performed

As a brief review of the materials showed, each of them must be applied taking into account the location and material of the construction of the bath. Therefore, we will consider how to insulate the walls in the bath from the inside in the context of individual directions.

Warming the walls of the bath from the inside

The direction of the thermal insulation of the walls depends on what function the room performs.

The steam room is the most important part of the bath. The temperature in the steam room can reach 90 °C (Russian bath) and 130 °C (sauna). Maintaining such a temperature is difficult and costly if you do not perform high-quality insulation of the steam room in the bath. Only natural materials can be used in the steam room. Basalt wool, laid in a frame or natural insulation, has proven itself to be excellent for those who are not ready to sacrifice the natural beauty of wood.

Wall insulation in a foam concrete bath with cotton wool

• frame device. Guides from a bar or metal profile are attached to the wall. Since the bathhouse is a low building, it is often enough to make only vertical guides and choose cotton wool with a density of more than 65 kr / m. The distance between the frame slats (step) is 15-20 less than the width of the wool and is 580-590 mm.

Important! The specificity of laying wool in a steam room is that you cannot use metal guides, but only wood, in addition, you have to take into account temperature fluctuations and the ability of wood to expand / contract under their influence.

To level out temperature fluctuations, during the construction of the frame, vertical cuts are made in the timber, through which the timber is attached to the wall with hardware. The presence of grooves allows the guide to move along the wall, they also compensate for the possible shrinkage of the walls if the bath is built from timber.

How to insulate the walls in the bath with basalt wool and penoizol

Insulation of the walls of the bath with sawdust (heat-insulating mixture)

• a wooden frame is set up. If the lining is planned to be mounted vertically, then the frame guides should be horizontal;
• a mixture is being prepared for wall insulation: - lime - 1 part (used as an antiseptic); Insulation of a bath from a bar / log with jute

  Jute - jute rope, tape, felt, interventional insulation (organic material)

  Thermal insulation is carried out using a special tool - a wooden hammer, a mallet (weight 300-400 gr.), Chisels and a caulking blade.

  Sealing gaps between logs, beams: jute is placed (hammered) in the interventional gaps, while trying to lay the material as tightly as possible.

  How to seal cracks in a wooden bath with jute

  Warming of the washing room in the bath

  The washing department, dressing room or rest room have a lower temperature, so foam plastic can be used to insulate the walls in these rooms.

  • frame is made. Some craftsmen recommend laying foam sheets on glue. But this method is only suitable for brick or foam concrete baths, but not for wooden ones;
  • foam is placed between the cells of the frame. There is no need to protect the foam from moisture, so films are not used;
  • cleaning is done.

  Bath roof insulation

  An important area of ​​thermal insulation work, because. a lot of heat escapes through the roof. If the roof is well insulated, ceiling insulation can be excluded. However, it is possible to insulate the roof only if the bath is a separate building with a pitched roof. For insulation, you can use any heat-insulating material that fits on the floor of the attic.

  The procedure for using synthetic insulation, cotton wool or foam plastic is no different from laying it on the wall.

  Insulation of the roof of the bath with sawdust

  • arrangement of the frame;
  • sawdust preparation. If the sawdust is poured in the form of a dry mixture, then they must be dried, deresined, impregnated with an antiseptic. Dry sawdust can be filled as a mixture between the cells of the frame and covered with a membrane or covered with ash. But more often they are placed in plastic bags and stacked in bags;

  Insulation of the roof in the bath with sawdust, covered in bags

  • mixture preparation. Sawdust insulation is an effective option for thermal insulation if a concrete slab acts as a floor. The composition of the mixture for insulation (proportions of components):

  First, dry materials are mixed, and then water is added to the desired consistency.

  There is also a second recipe:

  Bath insulation with a mixture of sawdust, clay and straw

  In this case, the clay is soaked in water, diluted to the consistency of sour cream and mixed with sawdust.

  An effective insulation will be a layer of sawdust mixture of 100 mm.

  Insulation of the roof of the bath with sawdust Filling of ash around the outlet of the pipe sauna stove from the attic

  Insulation of the ceiling in the bath

  Note that it is logical to start warming the bath from the ceiling. After all, warm air collects under the ceiling, which means it is a source of heat loss. The technology of insulation depends on the material used.

  How to insulate the ceiling in the bath

  For thermal insulation of the ceiling in the steam room, basalt wool is used, which is laid using the same technology as on the wall - with the arrangement of the frame.

  Insulation of the bath ceiling with sawdust is carried out according to the principle of thermal insulation of a cold roof (attic floor). Sawdust is placed in a plastic bag and placed in a frame made on the ceiling or between floor beams.

  Recommendation. When insulating the ceiling, you need to remember that the temperature at the exit of the heating pipe is very high. In this place, only basalt wool can be used, as a material that has a very high melting point and does not support combustion. The passage of the pipe through the ceiling is closed with a stainless steel metal plate (reflective, protective screen for the furnace pipe).

  Protective screen for the furnace pipe in the bath and the consequences of its absence

  Instead of sawdust on the ceiling, expanded clay can be used, poured into the frame. But it has significant weight and hygroscopicity. Therefore, according to reviews, users have abandoned this material in favor of others.

  Floor insulation in the bath

  The floor in the bath can be concrete or wood. Depending on the type, different thermal insulation technologies are used. Insulation of the concrete floor can be done with expanded clay or foam.

  Floor insulation in the bath with expanded clay

  • foundation is being prepared. To do this, the draft floor is removed and the soil is removed. The depth of the recess is 400-500 mm. below the threshold level;
  • waterproofing is laid on the floor - a film or roofing material. It is important that the edges of the film go to the wall to the entire height of the floor after insulation;
  • a rough screed with a thickness of 100 mm is performed. or a crushed stone-sand cushion of 150 mm is laid;
  • expanded clay gravel is poured. The minimum thickness of the expanded clay layer is 300 mm, otherwise it will not function as a heat insulator;
  • a reinforced mesh is laid over the expanded clay and a layer is poured cement screed 50-70 mm. When pouring concrete mortar, it is important to ensure the correct angle of inclination of the floor to the drain;
  • a finished floor is formed.

  It should be noted that expanded clay can be laid without using a screed. For this, a frame is made of a wooden beam. Expanded clay is poured into the cells of the frame, a waterproofing film is laid on it and a fine floor covering is covered from a wooden floor board. However, this method is not suitable for a steam room and a washing room, where there is a high level of humidity.

  The technology of floor insulation in the bath with expanded clay with and without screed

  When considering how to insulate the floor in the bath, it is better to give preference to a concrete base, followed by laying tiles on it (if it is a washing room or a dressing room), or wooden flooring, which is best used in a steam room:

  • for laying tiles use tile adhesive and a notched trowel;
  • for laying wood flooring, the floor is ironed and then installed wooden logs, with a slope of 5° towards the drain. Floor boards are installed on the logs, observing a gap between the boards of 5-10 mm. The gap is needed for draining water and ventilation.

  The concrete floor in the bath is a practical solution, since it is resistant to moisture, and the service life is 3-4 times longer than the service life of a wooden floor on logs.

  Insulation of the floor in the bath with foam

  A more modern and technological method of insulation. However, many users believe that it is wrong to insulate a steam room using synthetic material (in fact, penoplex is extruded polystyrene foam). under the influence of high temperature, it can release harmful substances. Therefore, penoplex is used in other rooms with a lower temperature.

  How to insulate the floor in the bath with penoplex

  • prepare the base: remove the old screed, remove the wooden flooring or remove the soil if the bath is new;
  • pour a rough screed with a layer of 50-100 mm to level the floor surface, for laying foam boards;
  • lay sheets of foam or materials from this group of heaters;
  • lay the reinforcing mesh;
  • pour a layer of screed, 50-100 mm thick;
  • perform flooring.

  The technology of floor insulation in the bath foam Laying a floorboard on a foam-insulated floor in a bath

  Insulation of the bath floor with a warm floor system

  Another option that is gradually gaining popularity is a warm floor in the bath. Its essence is that pipes are mounted in the screed, creating a warm circuit along which heated water (water floor) moves. Thus, we are not talking about insulation, but about how to make floor heating in the bath. And these are different concepts.

  Floor heating in the bath - water heated floor

  Insulation of openings in the bath

  Insulation of doors and windows in the bath also helps to increase the energy efficiency of the room. To reduce heat loss, window and door openings are initially made as small as possible (in particular, the door to the steam room), and windows are also placed closer to the floor surface. But they still need to be insulated, for this it is necessary to install sealed double-glazed windows and seals along the contour of windows and doors.

  Conclusion

  Performing the insulation of the bath with your own hands, you should not forget about the arrangement of high-quality ventilation. This will positively affect not only the health of bath users, but also the properties of finishing materials.

  Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the inside - thermal insulation for baths and saunas photo-video

  
  How to insulate a bath from the inside and outside - thermal insulation of walls, floors, roofs, ceilings in a sauna and a steam room with your own hands. What insulation for a bath is better, how to insulate a wooden, brick and foam block bath

Lining is a finishing material, it is attached to the walls when all other work is completed, including insulation. Therefore, the question of how to insulate the bath from the inside under the lining should be asked long before its installation begins.

However, it happens differently - the bath has long been finished, but it does not suit how it keeps warm. And then you need to think about how to properly insulate the bath under in order to eliminate the problem with thermal insulation. Of course, it will have to be dismantled for a while. And then - to act exactly as if you were just building.

Types of suitable heaters

In our opinion, it makes sense to divide the types of thermal insulation materials for a bath into sheet, roll And backfill. In addition, there are heaters that are applied to the walls in the form foam or moistened mass- These are polyurethane foam and ecowool, which are sprayed using special equipment.

Mineral wool can be purchased in rolls or sheets. It all depends on its density and the binders used.

BY THE WAY! We rarely name specific brands, but do you understand that under the names Rockwool or Izover there is one and the same mineral wool produced by different companies?

Basalt wool- This is a type of mineral wool, a literal indication of a similar mineral used. There is practically no difference.

Basalt wool for baths

But to confuse mineral wool and glass wool not worth it different heaters, from different materials and with different properties.

glass wool it is no longer worth using anywhere, because it is extremely unpleasant for a person - when it gets on the skin, it causes itching, it is dangerous to health if it gets into the eyes or respiratory organs. Yes, and fiberglass crumbles during operation, turns into dust, and it penetrates through the cracks, and you breathe it.

He does not like fiberglass insulation and the elevated temperatures inherent in the bath.

Styrofoam And extruded polystyrene foam- good heaters, especially the last one, but it is dangerous to use them in a bath. They are categorically not suitable for a steam room, but could (theoretically) be used in other rooms, but we will not recommend them, as they are fire hazardous.

ADVICE! In the bath, foam plastic and foam plastic can be used in floors under a concrete screed - there they pose no danger.

So, leafy heaters are mineral wool, foam glass (an excellent, but expensive insulation), calcium silicate and magnesium silicate sheets, non-recommended polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene.

Foam glass

Rolled heaters are again mineral wool (lower density), glass wool. foamed polyethylene, with or without foil (penofol, isolon, etc.).

We have already spoken about fiberglass, now about foam polyethylene e. It is often used as an additional insulation in residential buildings, but polyethylene does not tolerate high temperatures, so you should not use it instead of foil to insulate the steam room.

Foil insulation Penofol

IMPORTANT! Polyethylene at a temperature of one hundred degrees already melts. By the way, it supports combustion.

In general, it is quite possible to insulate other rooms of the bath with them (as a second layer).

Bulk we will divide the heaters for the bath into those that can be moistened and “glued” to the wall, and those that cannot. Expanded clay and vermiculite belong to the second category, ecowool - to the first.

AND vermiculite can be used for floor insulation and, where they perfectly hold and keep heat indoors. In order to insulate the walls of the bath with them, it is necessary that there is a gap between the two layers of the main material of the wall, a cavity that can be filled with insulation.

Ecowool- this is waste paper (cellulose) shredded into dust, flame retardants so that it does not support combustion. And she really does not support him - this is a good material for warming baths where it is on sale. Ecowool is used in dry and wet form. In dry - for warming floors and ceilings, as well as for filling cavities. In wet - for application to the walls.

Also on our site you can read two articles that make more full review heaters that can be used in the bath:

Insulation for lining in baths built from different materials

How does the wall material affect the choice of thermal insulation? Let's sequentially consider the options for what a bathhouse can be built from, and compare the material and insulation technology.

Brick

Brick baths - cold And non-combustible. The first circumstance prevents them from becoming traditional, because a cold bath (practically made of stone) needs to be warmed up for a long time, which is not particularly welcome in our high-speed age.

But the fact that it does not burn out is a big plus, given that baths burn most often.

So, it is precisely in order to reduce the disadvantages that thermal insulation should be used - it is most effective in this kind of buildings.

IMPORTANT! The thermal insulation of a brick structure can be not only internal or external, but also located between two layers of brickwork.

The latter circumstance increases the possibility of choosing a heater. Backfill expanded clay or ecowool is a great solution. Ecowool, for example, is used in “double beam” constructions, and it has been working great for decades.

You can also fearlessly fill the gap polyurethane foam- it is expensive, it requires hiring a team with equipment, but it is reliable and safe, because polyurethane is flammable, and nothing threatens it in the gap between the layers of brick, including ultraviolet, which destroys it.

In other cases, the traditional mineral wool- most often, because, for all its shortcomings, it does not support combustion, and high-quality ones also do not emit volatile organics that are harmful to health.

You can learn more about the brick wall insulation technology from the article.

Blocks

Of course, a brick is also a block, but in practice we often call products made of slag concrete, foam concrete, aerated concrete. Of course, they are larger and more like blocks, but they still have more internal resemblance than bricks.

The fact is that high-quality brick does not crack, holds fasteners well, and does not pick up moisture. In essence, it is burnt clay, almost a stone. A concrete blocks either contain light (by density) impurities in the form of slag, or are foamed in one way or another, that is, they contain air bubbles.

You can find out more about the similarities and differences between various foam concrete and cinder concrete.

Both greatly affect a number of qualities. Significantly thermal conductivity decreases blocks, they themselves perfectly keep heat even without heaters. But most of them are afraid of water, all of them do not hold fasteners well (it is problematic to hammer a nail into such a wall, but what about fasteners, for example?). Breaking blocks is pretty easy.

But we are talking about thermal insulation. Do blocks need it? Yes, in the bath and living quarters it is needed, especially if the climate is harsh. But in addition to thermal insulation, it is worth taking good care of waterproofing wall material. To do this, it is closed with all sorts of films and membranes.

Mineral wool is also afraid of water, so it’s better to be afraid of blocks and mineral wool together, under a layer of vapor and waterproofing inside and out. You will find the device of the correct heat-insulating cake in the article.

frame

A frame structure, in essence, is a heater between the slats, closed on both sides with OSB shields, boards, and other sheet material.

In other words, insulation is the main of two or three materials, forming a wall. Therefore, no additional work there is no need to carry out thermal insulation if the initial calculation was made correctly, and you correctly selected the thickness of the insulation.

Frame wall pie. See more about the insulation of frame walls.

Standard "pie", that is, the layers that make up the wall of the frame structure are as follows:

• if you start from the inside, then the first layer will be finishing, for example, lining;
• lining is nailed to the crate, which is attached to the racks of the frame;
• under the crate there is an obligatory layer of vapor protection, that is, a material that is one hundred percent impervious to water vapor - it can be a plastic film or foil;
• vapor protection directly covers the insulation, which is most often mineral wool, but there can also be reed slabs, a mixture of sawdust and gypsum / cement / clay, ecowool;
• the insulation is located between the racks of the frame, equal to them in the thickness of the layer;
• next comes, for example, an OSB board, which covers the thermal insulator from the outside and stiffens the structure;
• a membrane or hydroprotection film is mounted on top of the wall panel, which is permeable to water vapor from the side of the insulation, and in reverse side impenetrable;
• on top of the waterproofing, the outer wall decoration is attached.

More detailed information about frame insulation technologies - in the article.

Tree

Wooden baths are either log cabins, that is, they are placed from cylindrical logs, or from a bar- logs with a square or rectangular section.

By tradition, such baths do not need additional thermal insulation at all, if they are correctly laid and carried out. caulk gaps between crowns. As a material for caulking can be used tow, moss, linen. But for laying between the crowns at the construction stage, it is most often recommended to lay strips jute.

natural heaters in the bath are preferable, but in addition to this, you can use modern wood sealants, which have a certain elasticity, which allows them to change dimensions along with the one that “breathes” even after the building has given final shrinkage.

If, during the operation of the bath, it turned out that the thickness of the beam or frame does not correspond to the severity of the climate, then you have to do additional insulation. This is also a standard "pie", consisting of lining, crates, vapor protection and insulation, the latter being attached directly to a wooden wall.

About how a bath from a bar is insulated, it is said in the article.

How to properly insulate in a steam room

steam room- this is the main bathing room, from which visitors expect certain properties, in particular - long-term heat retention. To do this, it is insulated, but this must be done taking into account the preferences of certain traditions.

The point is that in Russian bath long-term heating and heat retention is carried out due to long-term heating by the same brick oven. Slowly heated wooden surfaces also give off heat for a long time. If the thickness of the walls is not small and there are no gaps in them, then additional insulation is not required.

In addition, the Russian bath is not chasing high temperatures. If you make a "thermos" in it, it can become an obstacle to maintaining fairly low temperatures(40-70 degrees), typical for this type of national bath. "Thermos" is made using foil.

For more information on using ceiling foil, see this

As for the Finnish bath - sauna, then the task here is precisely to reach the set high temperature in the steam room in the shortest possible time and keep it until the end of the procedures, subject to intensive air exchange.

It is worth warming the steam room only if there are real problems with heat loss.

ADVICE! Focus on the material of the walls: in a brick bath, the thermal insulation of a steam room is mandatory, in a frame bath, the thickness of the walls is included in the project, in a block bath it can be moderate, with more emphasis on waterproofing, and in a wooden one it may not be needed at all.

About the "thermos" a little lower, but otherwise the insulation scheme looks standard - most use mineral wool, because in fact there are not so many options for insulation in the bath for lining the steam room. But even if it is mineral wool, you need to pay attention to the fact that it is intended strictly for saunas and baths - this means that in it reduced content of phenols and other harmful substances in a bunch for stone fibers.

Apart from mineral wool in the steam room baths can be used ecowool, and some other materials that are harmless to health.

You already know that the insulation is placed directly on the wooden walls of the bath, in other cases it separates steam protection one side and hydroprotection with another. This applies to heaters that are afraid of moisture and lose their insulating properties from its action.

You can read more about the materials and technologies for thermal insulation of the steam room in the article.

Basalt wool specially designed for baths and saunas

Foil

Foil always arouses fierce controversy. The disputes themselves are divided into two categories: is foil needed in a Russian bath and what is its effectiveness in reflecting heat.

Let's start with the fact that mirror surfaces have long been used for focusing and redirects different types of radiation, including infrared - remember the device of the same reflector. Lining in the bath is not a hindrance to infrared radiation.

IMPORTANT! But there is an essential condition for the operation of a mirror surface as a reflector - it is necessary that there be air in front of the foil. Adjacency of other material to the foil from the side of reflection is unacceptable. The ventilation gap from the foil to the lining is just right.

As for the use of foil in a Russian bath, there is no categorical prohibition, of course, but it is desirable that you have ways temperature control, for example, with the help of ventilation and the oven itself. In a steam room with iron stove without lining with brick or stone, with foil insulation, you will get a tough version of the sauna, the harm from which is more than good.

We have two articles in which we analyze the types of foil and the arguments for and against its use in the bath -,

A little about insulation inside and out

Buildings are isolated from the external temperature not only from the inside, but also from the outside, however, each type has its own specifics that you need to know in order to make the right choice.

Residential buildings often insulated from the outside. Have you wondered why? The main reason is to make sure that the insulation is the first to take the blow of frost, and the wall material under it freezes less. Consequently, the temperature difference between the room and the wall is reduced, along the way shifting the dew point.

BUT! All this works in a constantly heated room, that is, in residential buildings.

A bath is a place occasional use, in winter you warm it up for a long time, spending part of the heat released from the stove to raise the temperature of walls, ceilings and floors. So, if thermal insulation is done inside, then the time to warm up the bath is reduced, because the low thermal conductivity of the insulator allows you to heat almost only air.

If the bath is isolated outside, walls, floors and ceilings are inside the protection, and the furnace will have to work hard to heat this mass of wood or stone. That is why it is not recommended to insulate periodically used rooms from the outside. Or do it in parallel with internal insulation where the climate is especially harsh. in Telegram to keep abreast of all the news of the site! Vkontakte