Step-by-step instructions for repairing a bathroom and toilet. Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation: we go from design project to finishing. We draw up a repair plan and determine the future design

August 5, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and repair ( full cycle carrying out finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

If you decide to master the technology of finishing work, then do-it-yourself toilet repair will be an excellent workout for you: a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room will significantly reduce time and financial costs, and at the same time you will be able to practice performing a variety of operations.

Of course, the repair and design of the toilet can be implemented according to a variety of schemes, but in this article I will give the most common option, which takes into account both the preparation for finishing, the tiling of the floor and walls, and the installation false ceiling and plumbing installation.

Preparatory stage

Preparing the room

So, initially we are dealing with a small room: for example, in the 137th series of standard apartments, the dimensions of the toilet are 120x85 cm. Therefore, we need to implement the most compact design option, while using materials that are affordable and not too difficult to work with.

When deciding where to start repairing the toilet, it is worth assessing its original condition. And if it becomes obvious that a complete reconstruction is required to bring the premises into a decent appearance, we will first of all remove the old finish. For this:

1. We dismantle the toilet, disconnecting it from the sewer riser and water supply, and then removing it from the stand that fixes the product to the floor.
2. We inspect the condition of the pipes, and if they require replacement, we dismantle them as well.
3. We remove old finishes - tiles, wallpaper, paint, etc. To clean surfaces, we use either a perforator or a drill with a nozzle in the form of a stiff wire brush.

1. When a complete reconstruction is planned, we also dismantle the old wiring. If the wires are laid in deep strobes, then they can not be removed - just de-energize the branch and cut the conductors close to the wall.
2. After removing construction debris, we treat the surfaces with an antiseptic. This will allow us to avoid the appearance of fungi and bacteria after finishing.

Laying communications

At this stage, we need to lay all the communications that are responsible for the functioning of the bathroom. This includes sewer pipes, water supply pipes and electrical wiring.

In a panel house of a typical building, it is very often in the toilet that vertical risers with cold and hot water. In order not to carry out a comprehensive reconstruction, it is here that it is worth laying a distribution unit, hiding all pipe bends in a special cabinet or box.

When doing toilet repairs, I usually do this:

1. First, I lay a sewer pipe connecting the toilet to the riser. Usually this segment does not differ in significant length, therefore it can be laid with minimal slope towards the drain. I choose a branch pipe for direct connection in such a way that it matches the configuration of the toilet bowl outlet - straight or inclined.
2. At the same stage, I lay drain pipes connecting sewer riser with bathroom and . I fix the pipes on the wall with clamps, making sure that a slope of about 2 cm per linear meter is maintained.

1. I cut a tee into the cold water supply riser, to which I connect a tap for drain tank. If it is planned to install a washstand in the bathroom (such options are implemented in visits to a larger area), I make two separate taps with cold and hot water to connect to the mixer. They should be made hidden, so you will have to cut separate strobes under the pipes.

Consider in advance whether you need a boiler. If you need it (even if you do not plan to install it right now) - immediately lay the piping for its installation.

1. I lay the wiring for installing a socket for a water heater in a strobe. For ceiling lighting, I run a cable in a corrugated plastic channel, which I fix with wire hangers.

1. From wooden beam impregnated with an antiseptic, or from a metal profile I form a box for masking risers, piping and other elements. It should be sheathed immediately before finishing - so we will not damage the drywall in the course of other work.

Actually, this is where the preparatory operations end. After that, we move on to finishing.

Toilet finishing

Ceiling

When thinking about how to make repairs in the toilet, we must first approve the order of finishing work.

Masters practice the most different schemes, but I still prefer to move from top to bottom - this minimizes the likelihood of staining or damaging the “finishing” area, and I don’t have to spend time masking already finished surfaces with film, fabric, newspapers, etc.

It is for these reasons that I prefer to start with the repair of the ceiling:

1. Along the perimeter of the room in the upper part, I beat off a straight line at a distance of about 50 - 70 mm from the ceiling.

The offset depends on the dimensions of the recessed fixtures. If you plan to use small lamps, then 40 mm may be enough.

1. Along the line, I install either a starting profile made of galvanized steel or a wooden beam on the walls.
2. I attach guides to the ceiling with the help of metal suspensions: I also make them either from a bar or from a metal profile. Fixing all parts to the bearing surfaces is carried out using dowels for express installation.
3. After completing the work on the frame, I bring the wires to the places where they will be installed.

1. To the profile fixed around the perimeter, I attach a special ceiling plinth with a groove for plastic panels. For fastening to a tree, I use galvanized staples, which I hammer with a construction stapler.
2. The most inexpensive, but at the same time practical option- this is a ceiling lining with plastic panels. I cut the PVC lining to size, after which I install it on the ceiling: the ends must be inserted into the grooves of the plinth, and the edges of the locks should be fixed on the frame beams with a stapler.

1. In the selected place, I make a hole in the plastic panel, through which I bring out the wires to connect the lamp. I usually put the device itself at the very end of the repair, so a temporary construction of an incandescent lamp with a cartridge tied to the wires with electrical tape is used for lighting.

Walls

After completing the work on the ceiling, I move on to the walls. The best option there will be tiling here: a small area significantly reduces purchase costs and minimizes labor costs, but the finish is hygienic and durable.

The sequence of work in this case will be as follows:

1. I check the walls with a level, and if necessary, I perform a rough leveling. For high-quality cladding, it is important that the differences along the plane do not exceed 5 mm per 1 m - anything less can be compensated for by varying the thickness of the adhesive layer.

When leveling, it is advisable to first try to knock down all the protrusions with a perforator, and then grind concrete surfaces. The thing is that plastering surfaces, and even in a room such as a bathroom, is difficult, long and expensive.

1. I treat the walls with an antiseptic primer: it not only improves the adhesion of the adhesive composition, but also prevents the formation of fungal colonies under the tiles.
2. I sheathe the frame of the box with pipes with moisture-resistant drywall.
3. I soak the tile in water for about 2-3 hours. This trick allows you to greatly improve the adhesion to the glue, which is important, especially if you do not have enough experience and work slowly.

1. I prepare the adhesive mixture by diluting the dry component in cool water. I mix the glue thoroughly with a nozzle on a drill: you need to do this at least twice so that there are no lumps.

Now I'm going to start tiling:

1. I take a level and mark the walls, drawing lines along the bottom edge of each row. I make indents between rows: the thicker the tile, the wider the seam can be.
2. Using a grater, I apply a layer of glue to the wall. With the serrated edge of the tool, I form grooves for even distribution of the composition.
3. It is important not to apply glue on too large an area. Be guided by howling speed of work: the surface of the adhesive composition should not dry out!
4. According to the markup, I apply the tile to the wall, press it and level it. With a spatula, carefully remove the protruding excess glue.
5. To maintain the same thickness of all seams, I install plastic remote crosses.

Tiles on the walls are laid in rows, from top to bottom. To get a beautiful pattern, you can arrange elements with an offset - while the tiles in each next row are shifted by 1/2 of the width. The accuracy of laying is checked using a level and a plumb line, if necessary, the position of the tile is corrected and added/removed adhesive composition.

After finishing the lining, I give the surfaces 12 hours for the glue to polymerize, and then I rub the seams. Grout is a paste that fills the gaps between the tiles: this way we will not only improve appearance premises, but also protect the base from moisture penetration.

When the grout dries, I will have the last, clean cosmetic stage: wash the tiles and wipe them with a clean, dry cloth. If we were careful enough to remove excess adhesive and grout from the surface in time, then this task would not require any significant effort.

Floor

Before I repair the floor in the toilet with my own hands, I usually evaluate its condition. In most cases, restoration of the waterproofing layer is required, therefore the first part of the work on the flooring is carried out before the walls are finished.

1. To begin with, the base is once again cleaned of dust and debris and impregnated with a penetrating primer.
2. Then, with my own hands, I apply a waterproofing mastic based on bitumen or liquid rubber. This layer protects the ceiling and the premises below it from leaks, therefore it is worth forming the so-called “trough” here - waterproofing not only the floor, but also the walls to a height of about 15 cm.

1. On top of the waterproofing, I pour a leveling screed up to 50 mm thick. For pouring, I use self-leveling compounds with fast hardening: their price is higher than that of a standard cement-sand mixture, but they also save work time, and at times.

1. After the screed has dried (at best it will take three to four days, at worst, if we saved on materials, we will have to wait two to three weeks) I treat the floor surface with primer.
2. For work I choose only floor tiles: it is both stronger and less slippery. Attempts to use cheaper wall tiles will lead to the fact that after a couple of years the floor will have to be shifted.

1. On the base with a grater I apply cement-based tile adhesive. I evenly distribute the adhesive composition over the surface of about 1m2 and proceed to the cladding.
2. I lay the tiles either in rows or alternating in accordance with the planned pattern, for example, tiling in black and white.
3. As in the case of wall decoration, I maintain the width of the gaps using spacers.

1. After facing, I let the glue dry, rub the seams, dry the grout, wash it and wipe the floor.

Installation and connection of plumbing

The repair of the toilet itself ends here, but we still have to install the equipment. No special difficulties are foreseen here, but it will take a lot of work, especially if, in addition to the toilet, you also need a washstand:

1. We install the toilet bowl on the floor in the chosen place, using either a special rubber lining or a wooden board impregnated with a moisture-proof compound.
2. In place of the mounting holes, we make notes, remove the toilet bowl and drill nests with a perforator to fix the product.

1. We hammer dowels into the nests, install the toilet in place and fix it with anchor bolts. At the same time, the outlet of the toilet bowl is either brought directly into the sewer pipe, or connected to it using a flexible corrugation.

1. From above we install a tank, which we fix on the base with screws with union nuts.
2. We attach a hose with cold water to the side or bottom of the tank.
3. We apply the sink to the wall and mark the attachment points.
4. According to the marking, we drill holes into which, as in the case of the toilet bowl, we hammer plastic dowels.

1. Next, we either fasten the brackets to the wall, on which we install the washstand, or fix the sink itself on the base using anchors with union nuts.
2. We connect a siphon to the sink drain, which we connect with a flexible corrugation to the sewer pipe.
3. We install the mixer, bringing flexible hoses with cold and hot water to it.
4. After completing all these manipulations, it will be possible to check the performance of the system and check the absence of leaks.
5. Then we take the prepared recessed fixtures, connect the wires to their terminals and install the lamps in the holes on the ceiling.

Our toilet is ready and ready to use!

The cost of consumables

To answer the question of how much it will cost to repair a bathroom, you need to know its area, and what materials will be used, and whether we will do the finishing on our own or turn to specialists. However, even with the most accurate estimates, the estimate tends to increase, so it is worth putting about 30% more money into the budget than it turns out according to the calculations.

To facilitate budgeting, I advise you to use the table containing the estimated prices for materials used in the repair of the bathroom. Of course, this information is for reference only (prices in online stores were taken as the basis), but it gives an idea of ​​the order of numbers in full:

Material	Unit	Cost, rubles
Mastic waterproofing	5 kg	1100 — 1600
Tile adhesive CM 9	25 kg	250 — 450
Grout for tiles	5 kg	600 – 1200
Penetrating primer with antiseptic	5 l	250 — 500
Floor leveling compound	25 kg	280 – 750
Tiles for walls budget	m2	45 — 90
Tiles for walls of the middle price category	m2	250 -500
Ceramic floor tiles	m2	250 – 2500
Acrylic paint for internal works	5 kg	200 – 500
Profile for drywall	panel 3 m	50 — 150
Drywall hanger	PC.	5 — 25
Wooden beam for the frame	panel 6 m	80 — 200
PVC lining for ceiling lining	m2	150 -250
Sewer pipe for outdoor work 110 mm	1 m.	125 — 200
Sewer pipe for interior work 50 mm	1 m.	75 — 150
Metal-plastic water pipe 16 mm	1 m.	70 — 120
Compression fitting for metal-plastic pipe	PC.	250 — 500
Mixer with short spout	PC.	1500 — 2200
Inexpensive washstand Santeri	PC.	900
Toilet-compact Santek	PC.	3100 — 3500

In addition, when calculating how to make repairs in the bathroom, you need to consider that we will need other little things like fasteners, sealants, gaskets, etc. So the budget reserve mentioned above will definitely not be superfluous.

Conclusion

Toilet repair is a kind of training ground for “running in” the skills of a novice builder, finisher, plumber and electrician. Based on the recommendations given, the tips in the comments and the video in this article, you will be able to lay the foundations of your skill, and in the future successfully cope with much more complex projects.

"Last generation", modern finishing materials, as well as radically new technological solutions for interior design, many have a desire to transform their homes. And in order to better understand how certain finishing materials are mounted, it is best to start with the smallest room in the apartment - the bathroom.

Do-it-yourself toilet repair is quite realistic if you know where to start this process, what materials you can use for this, and how to install certain components of this specific room.

Starting repairs in this room, it is necessary to foresee that if you plan to completely replace all plumbing and pipe wiring, and not just tidy up the walls and ceiling, you will have to spend a lot of money. The work of the construction team will also be expensive - that is why it makes sense to try your hand at the role of a builder and designer.

Preparatory activities

Like any construction work, toilet repair begins with the preparation of tools, the purchase of materials, the dismantling of old plumbing accessories, cleaning the surfaces of walls, floors, and ceilings.

Tools

You need to start with tools, as they are necessary both for the preparatory work and for the repair itself. Of the building tools you need to have:

• Screwdriver with bit set or, V last resort , a set of screwdrivers - for dismantling old accessories fixed to the walls, and then for installing new ones.
• Perforator - for removing concrete baseboards, if any, and old tiles from walls and floors. In the future, it will be needed for drilling holes.
• Gas wrench - will be needed for unscrewing and tightening threaded connections when dismantling and installing sinks, toilets and pipes.
• Brushes and rollers - for applying primers and coating waterproofing materials.
• Notched trowel - for applying tile adhesive to the surface.
• If metal pipes are changed to plastic ones, then it will be necessary to prepare an apparatus for welding them and a special pipe cutter.
• Roulette and folding rule - for carrying out the necessary measurements and markings.
• Building level and plumb line - to control the accuracy of the vertical and horizontal during finishing work, plumbing installation.
• Other plumbing and carpentry tools - hammer, chisels, files, chisels, hacksaws and others - as needed.

Dismantling old plumbing fixtures

When everyone is at hand necessary tools, you can start work on dismantling.

• The first step to take is to shut off cold and hot water from the central plumbing system. The taps must be completely closed.
• Next comes the dismantling. plumbing - sinks, if it is installed in the toilet, and the toilet bowl.

It is necessary to take into account the fact that if during the repair the family is not going to leave the apartment, then it will be very difficult to do without a toilet, therefore it is recommended to remove it last, and to remove it temporarily, only for the duration of the daily work, and then install and connect back to the sewer. This process is repeated until the repair is completed and a new toilet is installed in place of the old one. It's hard, but there's nothing you can do about it.

You can do otherwise - do not touch the toilet until the time comes to replace the pipes. True, you still have to return to the first option - it is unlikely that you will be able to do all the operations in one day.

Dismantling the sink

- after the To Before the apartment is disconnected from the water supply system, it is necessary to open all taps and make sure that there is no water left in the pipes. In addition, you need to flush the water from the toilet bowl, otherwise it may all be on the floor.

- Sinks are mounted on brackets fixed to the wall. Some of the models have a decorative pedestal that covers the sewer drain and water supply pipes. Additionally, the pedestal serves as a support for the bowl. Therefore, the dismantling of the sink begins with the removal of this particular element. The pedestal must be fixed to the floor, so the first step is to unscrew this mount.

— Hedged, you can twist the storage glass from the siphon, and the water accumulated in it is drained into the prepared container. After that, the sump glass can be put back in place, since the entire drain system will be dismantled. To do this, unscrew the nut installed at the bottom of the sink, with which the siphon and drain pipe are held. The nut can be easily unscrewed by hand if you turn it counterclockwise while supporting the siphon cup.

- Next, the siphon is removed from the pipe section on which it is installed, along with a hose that drains water into the sewer drain. Then, the entire system disconnected from the sink is removed from the sewer socket. Hole in the socket sewer pipe you need to close the lid or plug it with a cloth rolled up in the form of a gag - so that it does not spread around the room bad smell sewerage.

- The next step is to disconnect the hoses supplying water to the mixer from the water supply system. To dismantle them, you will need to use a gas or adjustable wrench (in some cases it is more convenient to use a set of open-end wrenches - usually all plumbing connections in a bathroom or toilet - in the range from 19 to 30).

- Then the sink can be removed. If it is planned to install the same sink with the same mixer after repair, then it is left screwed to the bowl and taken out of the toilet room with it.

Dismantling the toilet

Having finished with the sink, proceed to the dismantling of the toilet and cistern.

- When dismantling the toilet, the water must also be shut off and water drained from the tank - this is a warning in case the process of removing it will take place on another day, after removing the sink.

- Then the tank is removed from the brackets if it is fixed on the wall and removed from the toilet. If it was installed on the toilet platform, then the corresponding fastening bolts are unscrewed, and the tank is removed.

- Now you can remove the "corrugation" (or other connecting pipe) from the outlet pipe of the toilet bowl, which goes to the sewer. She is removed from the toilet and pulled out of the socket of the sewer pipe. It is recommended to immediately discard this element of the system, and install a new one when installing the toilet bowl.

- The next step is to remove the toilet itself. To do this, bolts (sometimes screws or studs) are unscrewed from the holes, with which it was fixed to the floor. Fasteners are unscrewed with a wrench or screwdriver, depending on the type of fasteners.

- If the toilet was previously installed without the use of cement, only with the help of screws and sealant, then you should try to gently swing it and remove it from its place. If it was installed on concrete mortar, then it will not be so easy to knock it off the spot, and in this case, in 99 cases out of 100, it is no longer possible to do without replacing the toilet bowl with a new one. The old one. most likely, it will give a crack or a split, it is immediately sent to the scrap.

- If it is planned to install the successfully removed toilet bowl in place after the repair, then it is temporarily taken out of the bathroom so that it does not interfere during work.

Cleaning surfaces from old coatings

Whatever finishing material was not chosen for walls and floors, the old coating must be removed, since during its many years of operation it has probably been saturated with various odors that can remain in the room even after repair, which is highly undesirable.

The second reason why surfaces must be cleaned is that the walls cannot be treated with a primer, which means that decorative trim or the adhesive for it will not be adhesive enough with the wall. Finishing material will begin to flake off over time, and you will have to make repairs again.

• It is convenient to remove old ceramic tiles with a puncher by installing a flat-shaped chisel-blade.

Cleaning walls from paint with a hair dryer ...

• Painted walls can be cleaned with a blow dryer and trowel, or with a sander with a round wire brush.

... and with a wire brush

• If plaster was previously applied to the walls, then it is first soaked with water, and then removed with a thickened spatula (having a thickness of 2.5 ÷ 3 mm).

• Wallpaper from the walls is the easiest to remove - just like plaster, they need to be wetted and left for a while, then moistened again and removed from the surfaces with a spatula.

• After cleaning the surface of the walls and ceiling, proceed to the dismantling of the flooring.

Work can be done manually using a chisel, or just like removing the old coating from the walls with a puncher.

After removing the old decorative coating, the surfaces must be well leveled, removing small remnants of the removed material. If necessary, they are once again traversed with a grinder with a metal brush installed on it.

Primer and waterproofing

After cleaning the walls and floor, the garbage is taken out, then all surfaces are swept with a brush, and finally it is better to collect the dust with a powerful vacuum cleaner.

• Next, it is necessary to cover the surfaces with a deep penetration antiseptic primer, which will create excellent adhesion (adhesion) with the materials applied to them and keep the walls from mold colonies. The primer is applied at least twice, and the second time - only after the first has completely dried.

• After the primer dries, you can proceed to the waterproofing of the floor. Since the toilet is undergoing engineering communications - sewerage and plumbing, no one can exclude the various emergencies. To avoid the risk of water leaking to the lower floors, high-quality waterproofing in the toilet, as well as in the bathroom, is a must.

There are many materials and methods waterproof floor, but the most accessible for use in an apartment is coating waterproofing, which is first applied at the joints of the wall and floor in strips 150 ÷ ​​180 mm wide.

• On top of the still wet coating, at the junctions of the planes of the walls and the floor, a waterproofing tape is laid and pressed well - it is recessed. It will additionally protect the joints from leaking in the event of a large amount of water on the floor.

• After the joints have dried, the waterproofing mass is applied to the entire floor and left to dry. If necessary, one or even two more layers are applied, each of which must dry well before the next is applied.

After the completion of the waterproofing process, proceed to the dismantling and installation of pipes.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Pipe replacement

If a major overhaul of the toilet is started, then, of course, it is better to immediately replace all the water pipes with new ones. Moreover, this process is necessary if the old system has been in operation for many years without repair.

It is better to replace metal pipes with plastic or metal-plastic ones. But first of all, the old ones are removed. They will have to be cut with a grinder - then they can be twisted using a gas wrench. Only after dismantling the old wiring to the place of its entry into the apartment, a new one will be mounted from new materials, installed in the same or another, more convenient place.

If there is no idea how to do it correctly, it is better to invite a specialist for such a task. He will draw up a diagram of the installation of all wiring, taking into account the location of water meters, water shut-off valves and connections installed pipes with a stand.

It would be optimal if the main water pipes - risers, passing through all floors, will be completely replaced throughout the entire entrance. Then all apartment owners will have the opportunity to change the pipes in their apartment at a convenient time for them without any problems by connecting to the new pipes of the riser.

Pipes are also a system of taps, filters, water meters and collectors.

The wiring diagram will be quite complicated if the water filters of the preliminary and deep cleaning And . If these devices are not provided in the apartment, then the scheme will be quite simple - instead of metal pipes, on Same most place new plastic ones are installed.

• The easiest to install is a tee pipe layout, so it is often used in the bathrooms of apartments.

1 - A branch pipe with a fitting for connecting an automatic washing machine or a toilet flush tank.

2 — Pipes hot and cold water with fittings for connecting a basin faucet.

3 - Hot and cold water pipes with connectors for connecting a bath faucet.

4 – Elbows (corners) for turning pipelines in the right direction.

5 - Tees, allowing you to make a branch from the main pipe.

6 — check valves, allowing water to pass in only one direction, preventing it from flowing back.

7 - Hot water meter.

8 - Cold water meter.

9 - Pressure reducer, which stabilizes it in the apartment system - this installation is especially important if the pressure in the external system is not stable.

10 – Oblique coarse filters.

11 - Faucets (valves) to shut off the water supply to the apartment.

12 — Central risers of cold and hot water.

The disadvantage of the tee system is the uneven supply of water to different points of consumption with simultaneous use.

• The following diagram shows the common piping for the apartment according to the collector scheme. In it, each water intake point is connected individually to the installed collectors for hot and cold water. This allows you to achieve complete uniformity of water distribution and independence of water intake points from each other.

Obviously, if there is a desire to update the wiring system, making it a collector, then you will have to change the pipes in the entire apartment, where they are laid - the bathroom, the bathroom and the kitchen. Collectors are usually installed on the back wall of the toilet (usually water risers pass there or nearby) and close.

The figure shows one of options organizations collector system piping in a city apartment:

1, 2 And 3 - valves, through which it is possible to organize either a direct supply of hot water to the intra-apartment wiring, or through an installed heated towel rail

4 – Main faucet at the hot water inlet.

5 – An oblique pre-filter that traps large particles from the central pipeline.

6 – Water meters respectively for hot and cold water.

7 – Fine filters mechanical cleaning. Very often they are additionally equipped with pressure gauges.

8 – Pressure reducers.

9 - Collectors - combs, to which cold and hot water pipes are connected, going to all points of water intake.

10 – Main tap at the cold water inlet.

The diagram also shows storage water heater embedded in common system. Naturally, when the owners switch to autonomous consumption of hot water, they must cut off the internal wiring by shutting off the tap (pos. 4) at the inlet of the hot water supply. More (which, by the way, is often hung in the toilet) described in a separate article of our portal.

• When installing pipes, you need to determine the installation location of the sink (if it is provided in the toilet).

If it is located next to the wall where the collector is located, then the flexible hoses for connecting it can be closed with a small box.

If the sink is installed closer to the exit from the toilet, then you can do it in two ways - also build a box for the pipes, or hide them in the wall. To do this, it will be necessary to make strobes in the wall, in which the pipes will be laid, going out only with threaded fittings for connection.

The latter option is especially relevant if ceramic tiles are laid on the walls.

After the pipe routing is completed, all open threaded fittings (they are often called sockets) must be temporarily closed with covers, plugs or small gags so that building mixtures do not get into them.

• The sewer pipe coming from the sink can also be hidden in a box, wall or on the floor, making a separate gate for it, into which it will be embedded. The second end is connected to the sewer pipe passing from the toilet to the main riser.

Should I completely change the sewer riser? It is desirable, of course, if there is an old cast-iron pipe there, already heavily corroded by corrosion. But it will be quite difficult to do this in one single apartment from the entire riser. If you take such a step, it is best to immediately negotiate with all the neighbors.

Having finished operations with pipes, you can proceed to work that will help make the toilet room neat. Agree that no matter how aesthetic the new pipes look, they should still be closed so as not to spoil the view.

Pipe box installation

• In order to decorate the plumbing and sewer wiring pipes, it is necessary to erect a frame on which drywall panels will be fixed.

A well-arranged box will help hide all the "ugliness" of pipes

The frame can be made from wooden block or from metal profiles. All its elements are carefully measured, cut with a hacksaw, metal shears or a grinder, and during installation they are aligned with a level and fastened together with self-tapping screws.

• The frame is placed at the bottom of the wall, if it was possible to fit all the wiring in this particular area. For sewers, a separate frame for the box is often built.

If necessary, the entire wall is covered with a frame. But, both in the first and in the second case, it is necessary to provide a window that will provide access to all wiring elements so that in the event of an accident, it can be easily eliminated, without understanding all decorative partition. In addition, we must not forget about free access to valves and water meters - for periodic readings.

• In addition to emergency and inspection doors, you need to think about. Often ventilation ducts in apartment buildings, they are located along the back wall of the sanitary unit rooms, and openings for them are arranged under the ceiling of the room. It is impossible to close the ventilation, therefore, it is also necessary to provide a separate box for it in the frame, and install in it, after finishing the finishing work, an exhaust

• After mounting the frame, it must be sheathed with a material on which any decorative finish will fit well. Most often, drywall is used for this purpose, but sometimes plywood can also be suitable, the panels from which are fixed to the frame using special self-tapping screws.

• After the drywall is fixed to the frame, all its joints must be strengthened with a fiberglass sickle mesh and sealed with putty. In addition, all self-tapping screw caps are also covered with putty, otherwise, over time, rust from them may come through wallpaper, paint, or even through the material of the joints between ceramic tiles.

• Next, you need to consider what type of door will be installed in the frame structure. Perhaps, it will depend on this and on the material chosen for finishing when to install elements for its fastening - immediately or after finishing work.

- If the partition will be pasted over with washing wallpaper, the door must be fixed on furniture hinges. In this case, it is installed on the frame immediately.

An easy option is to hang blinds on the wall

- If blinds are used as a door, which is the easiest, they are hung at the end of all finishing work.

— If surface finishing is to be carried out PVC panels, then the door can be made of the same material, mounted on a frame made of slats. It is fixed on the lathing slatsdesigned for fastening the panels.

- Another option for mounting the door can be a frame made specifically for the left openings, on which the door is installed. The frame is inserted together with the door into the frame opening after finishing work, and around it is framed with baguette slats.

On a sheathed and puttied partition before installation decorative material it is necessary to apply a primer in two layers and leave to dry.

Ceiling, wall, floor finishing

Toilet can be finished different materials, which have high moisture resistance, are amenable to wet cleaning and are not subject to the negative effects of chemical detergents. To such decorative coatings include ceramic tiles, PVC panels, washable wallpaper and plaster impregnated with a deep penetration primer.

For the floor, of course, the simplest and most reliable solution will be ceramic tiles. From innovative technologies- cover can be self leveling epoxy floors. They have another name - because due to the multi-layer and transparency of the material, it is possible to create three-dimensional images.

Consider the most popular, affordable and affordable self-assembly finishing materials.

Ceramic tile

The best option for decorating the walls and floor of the toilet is ceramic tiles. It has numerous advantages over other finishing materials, both in terms of performance and decorative features. Moreover, a great variety of collections are on sale, differing both in design and in price - you can always pick up suitable option for i specific .

• Before laying the tiles, it is necessary to check the walls for evenness. If they have deformation or bevels, they must be leveled with putty or drywall sheets.

With drywall - much easier, the work process is faster, and after its completion there is not much dirt left. Drywall can be fixed to the walls with a special adhesive and fixed in several places with dowels. The seams between the sheets are sealed in the same way as on the casing of the previously installed box.

At very uneven walls drywall must be fixed on the crate installed on the walls.

However, there are difficulties in this matter - if profiles are used for the crate, they will “eat up” a significant part of the already small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe toilet, therefore they are often used instead wooden slats only 15 ÷ 20 mm thick.

• After leveling the walls with drywall and covering them with a primer, you can begin to lay ceramic tiles on the dried surface.

The installation process of this material starts from the floor. Control over the evenness of the rows and the fit of the tiles to the wall must be carried out constantly, using building level. In order for the seams between the tiles to be the same, plastic crosses are used to calibrate their width.

• If individual tiles require adjustment - their reduction or removal of some part of them, cutting is done with a special tile cutter or glass cutter, which is carried out several times along the same line, and then the excess part is separated from the tile with pliers. You can also cut with a grinder by installing a diamond or corundum wheel on it for cutting ceramics.
• Tiles are laid on a specially designed tile adhesive. It is applied to the walls with a notched trowel and spread over the surface.
• Having completed the laying, the seams between the tiles are sealed with a special grout (fugue), matched in tone to the overall color of the room.

• After finishing the walls, you can proceed to tiling the pre-leveled floor. To prepare it, it is best to use a self-leveling compound - it will need quite a bit, and the floor will learn to be perfectly even. A lot of useful information on working with such can be found in a special article of our portal.

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor has its own specific features - both in terms of choosing a tile, and in the technology of working with it. More about that - in a special publication of our portal.

Video: budget toilet transformation with ceramic tiles

PVC panels

Fixing PVC panels to walls is much easier than laying tiles. No mortar, "dirty and wet" work is needed. The panel fastening technology is simple and intuitive. The main thing is control for observance of verticality and horizontality, attentiveness and accuracy.

Plastic panels can level any surface by correctly installing the crate, which will hide all the bumps.

The panels, however, are not as durable as well-laid tiles, but they also have a much lower price. In addition, once having made a crate on the walls under them, the owners get the opportunity to change the finishing material as they get tired of its colors, or when it becomes sloppy.

So, the work proceeds in stages as follows:

• Before mounting the panels on the walls, they are mounted on the ceiling. If it is planned to install built-in lighting fixtures on the ceiling, then all measurements are made in advance, since the fixtures have a certain height, and the ceiling will have to be somewhat lowered during their installation.

An important note - the processes of paneling the ceiling and walls in the article are somewhat spaced only for a better perception of the features. In fact, the crate for both the ceiling and the walls is prepared at the same time, and only then do they move on to fixing the panels according to the “floor → ceiling” scheme.

- For this, a crate of metal profiles or wooden bars is fixed on the ceiling. Further, wiring is fixed between the elements of the crate - its ends are located at the points where the lamps will be installed. It is clear that the cables must not be connected to the power supply during installation.

- At the junctions of the crate and wall, moldings are fixed for internal corners- they are in the figure below, placed at number four. Facing panels will be installed in their grooves.

- Holes are made on the panels for lighting elements.

• On the primed surface of the walls with the help of dowels, wooden laths of the crate are fixed. If it is planned to install the PVC lining vertically, then the crate is fixed horizontally, and vice versa - when it is installed in a horizontal position, the crate is mounted vertically.

To save toilet space, the slats should not be thicker than 20 mm, and their width can be 30 mm or more. It is advisable to immediately align them vertically, making linings in the right places through which fasteners will pass, fixing both the rail and the lining on the wall at the same time.

Reiki are installed at a distance of 400 ÷ 500 mm from each other.

The crate is usually attached to the wall with dowels. To do this, holes in the wall are drilled through the rails, and then plastic dowels are hammered into the wall. A rail is applied to the marked place and screwed to the wall with a self-tapping screw.

- Next, a guide is fixed to the bottom rail, into which the end parts of the panels will be inserted. To do this, you need a molding called "starter", it is shown in the figure at number seven.

- Under the ceiling, the panels are inserted into moldings for internal corners, which have already been installed during the installation of ceiling panels.

- The same molding is installed at the vertical corners of the room, since panels of two planes will be joined in them.

- The installation of the lining begins from the corner of the room, and the first panel must be inserted into the grooves of three moldings at once - the top, bottom and corner. The panel must be leveled, since the evenness of the entire further row will depend on it.

The lining must be fixed to the crate and this can be done in several ways:

- Hammering nails into the hidden part of the lining adjacent to the rail.

- Using special metal clamps, which are put on the narrow part of the groove of the lining, and nailed, screwed or shot with staples to the rail. They are convenient in that, if necessary, one or more panels can be pulled out of the general row, without understanding all designs.

- Special clips that do not require additional fastening. They are convenient, but ordinary battens are not suitable for them, but you will need to purchase special guides into which such clips will be installed.

Prices for popular finishing wall panels

Wall panels

Video: an example of wall decoration with PVC panels

Washable wallpaper

Wallpaper that is easily wet-cleaned is the most accessible view toilet finishes. If you creatively approach the design process and choose the right pattern and shade of wallpaper, you can make an interior that will not be worse than that made using tiles or PVC panels.

The disadvantage of wallpaper can only be called the fact that their service life is much less than that of other materials, but their cost is several times lower. They are much more affordable for frequent replacement than tiles or lining.

In order for the wallpaper to look neat on the walls, the surfaces under them must be carefully prepared. The easiest and most convenient way to level the walls is with drywall sheets. As described above, the installation of drywall is quite simple, and any wallpaper fits perfectly on its surface.

Washing wallpaper is pasted with adjacent strips end to end. If a step-by-step drawing is applied to them, then it must be observed.

The ceiling can also be covered with wallpaper, the same as the walls, or lighter. Since light shades make the room much brighter, you can save on room lighting by installing light bulbs of less power.

To the wallpaper you will need to choose the right ceiling and floor plinths, which will harmoniously fit the main finish in terms of color and style.

Plumbing installation

The final stage of work is the return to the place of the toilet bowl, cistern and sink.

Toilet

Since the toilet, whatever one may say, is the most important element of the toilet room, it is installed in the first place.

• To begin with, the markup of its location is carried out. The toilet is placed on the floor and circled with a marker. Immediately mark the places of its attachment to the floor, since it will be necessary to drill holes for the dowels.

• Next, the toilet is temporarily removed to the side, and in semi drilled holes for fasteners into which dowels or anchors are hammered.
• The toilet is installed in place and firmly screwed to the floor. Usually, plastic decorative caps are provided in the set of fasteners that will cover the head of the bolt or stud.
• Next, a socket is put on the toilet pipe corrugated pipe. The corrugation opens on desired length, bends and its second end, equipped with rubber sealing rings-cuffs, is inserted into the socket of the sewer pipe.

• Then, you need to connect the tank to the toilet. Exist different models toilet sets with cistern.

- In some of them, the tank is installed and fixed directly on a special toilet bowl platform. In this case, the kit should include the necessary fasteners and sealing sealing elements, and mounting holes are provided in the toilet bowl and cistern.

- In other cases, the tank is attached to the wall and connected to the toilet with a pipe that supplies water for flushing into it.

• After installing the tank and assembling the drain mechanism in accordance with the instructions attached to it, it is necessary to connect the water supply hose - to the tank and to the corresponding fitting on the water supply.

• The last step in installing the toilet is to seal the gap between it and the floor with a sealant, it will increase the reliability of the installation and give the joint accuracy.

There are a lot of toilet models, and it is simply impossible to consider everything. Several can be found in a separate publication of our portal.

Sink

If you want to hide all the ugly pipe connections under the sink, you should purchase a model mounted on a pedestal. This structural element will close all unsightly places and serve as a reliable additional support for the bowl.

• Before fixing the sink to the wall, it is recommended to immediately install a mixer on it and connect flexible hoses to it. Also, the upper part of the drain system is pre-mounted, consisting of a socket and a piece of pipe, on which a siphon will be installed in the future. After installing the sink in place, it will be extremely inconvenient to carry out these procedures.

• Next, the sink needs to be fixed to the wall. It can be installed on special brackets fixed in the right place, or attached directly to the wall surface using anchors.
• After the sink is fixed, the flexible hoses are screwed to the threaded fittings that are brought out to supply water. It is recommended to additionally install taps on the fittings, which in case of emergency will help to locally shut off the water. In this case, the hoses are screwed to the threaded fitting of the tap.

• Now it is necessary to install and seal the siphon, and then connect the waste corrugated hose coming from it into the sewer pipe prepared in the floor or in the wall, sealed with a special rubber sleeve or cuff. The installation of the waste siphon is completed by a mandatory leak test with a test spill of water.
• The last step in the installation of the sink is the closure of all pipes and the siphon with a pedestal. It is installed under the sink and marks are made for drilling holes in the floor for fasteners.

The pedestal is then removed semi drilled holes into which dowels or anchors are hammered. After that, the pedestal returns under the sink and is fixed to the floor. With its upper part, it should support the sink.

After assembly - a mandatory check by spilling a large amount of water

After completing the installation of plumbing, it is necessary to conduct a verification test for leaks. If there are no drops of water on the pipes and taps, it means that the installation was carried out with high quality, and the plumbing is ready for operation.

If the owners of the apartment have creative inclinations, Although some skills in the construction business, and The main thing- desire, then even with a minimum budget, you can put the toilet in order.

Prices for various types of sanitary ware for toilet and bathroom

Plumbing

Video: an example of a major overhaul of a bathroom

The bathroom is one of the key rooms in every home. There is always a large number of different communications. Due to the fact that in the bathroom there are constant changes in temperature and humidity (due to the use of both hot and cold water), the repair of this room requires the most responsible approach. Moreover, it is of particular importance step by step repair bathroom, as a competent sequence here determines the success of the idea.

First of all, its successful completion depends on a well-planned enterprise. It is necessary to take into account all the little things that can negatively affect the task. It follows from this that the instruction is simply necessary so that in the future you do not have to redo everything several times.

To do this, you first need to decide on the type of future repair.

1. Unplanned. As the name implies, this type of repair is urgent and unforeseen. This option possible in the event that, for example, there was a leak in pipes or repairs were required in connection with moving to a new apartment.
2. Planned. This type is divided into two more subtypes: capital and cosmetic. Therefore, it is already possible to determine the type of repair in advance, depending on the degree of need and the financial component. Most often people do redecorating, as it requires less preparation time and material costs.

Knowing in advance about the upcoming repair, you need to perform a number of actions that will ensure the quality and durability of the repair.

Future Repair Plan

Any competent repair requires a clear constructive plan, which will be based on the factors taken into account.

1. Primary inspection. Initially, you need to inspect the condition of the bathroom and decide for yourself what needs changes, additions or a radical change. To be a little more specific, you need to find out if redevelopment is required, replacement of plumbing, whether any household items need to be added, etc.
2. Force calculation. This paragraph refers to the evaluation own forces for repairs; that is, it is necessary to decide which things a person is able to do with his own hands, and which require the involvement of a professional and experienced employee.
3. Design. As you know, technologies are developing day by day, and now it is possible to create the design of your future bathroom without leaving your home. To do this, just open an Internet browser and look at the options. modern design. In addition, some details can be brought in on your own if there is at least a minimal taste. Also, the web resource can issue necessary information about what can be done to create a practical and at the same time compact bathroom.
4. Analysis of the financial component is a very important point, since the further course of work will depend on it. You need to sit down and spend a couple of hours calculating your free budget, and based on this, plan your bathroom renovation.
5. Choice of building materials. It is very important already at the planning stage to clearly define the material that will be used in the repair. The most important thing is to choose a facing material, for example:

• marble mosaic;
• porcelain tile, etc.

After following all of the above rules, you need to calculate the total estimate for the renovation of the bathroom. The estimate should contain such an item as unforeseen expenses, for which it is necessary to make a reserve equal to about 10 - 15% of the total cost. After that, you can safely proceed to the necessary purchases. building material.

Preliminary work

1. First of all, it is necessary to remove all pieces of furniture and utensils from the bathroom. Everything is taken out gradually, slowly, according to the rule - from small items to the big ones. You need to finish the take-out with a bathroom, which is the largest and heaviest item in the room.
2. Next, you need to disconnect all plumbing units and communications.
3. After that, you can begin to dismantle the old pipes and sewer drains.
4. The next step is to remove from the hinges old door so that it does not interfere with the passage and repair.
5. Demolish partitions if required by redevelopment or new design.
6. Completely clean the walls and ceiling from the old facing material. To do this, it will be necessary to take a puncher and completely remove the old tiles, plaster or other coatings.
7. Clear the room of old garbage, pipes and other unnecessary Supplies.

The most important thing is not to demolish the superfluous and not to destroy what may subsequently have any value.

Repair materials and tools:

• ceramic tile;
• tile adhesive;
• cement;
• putty;
• paint/wallpaper;
• sealant;
• foam concrete blocks;
• mounting foam;
• hammer;
• screwdrivers;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• Bulgarian;
• insulating tape;
• nails;
• self-tapping screws;
• building level.

Laying and installation of communications

At this stage after complete dismantling you need to lay all the necessary communications: pipelines and electrical wires. The beginning (the entrance of communications to the apartment) must be brought to the plumbing connection point - the future sink, bathtub, washbasin, etc.

Modern plastic pipes are very easily connected to each other with a soldering iron. But with metal pipes you will have to tinker a little, as they require welding. When laying pipes, the main thing is to pay attention to the slope. Due to water pressure, water pipes can even be pulled parallel to the floor, but the sewer drain must be installed at least 3 - 5º downhill. This is necessary in order to wastewater do not stay in the pipe in case of blockage.

If the bathroom is combined with a toilet, then you should also pay attention to the lowest possible location of the pallet. After that, it is necessary to firmly fix it, it is advisable to veneer with brick or concrete mixture, followed by tiling. When laying electrical wiring, you should always mark places for sockets, leaving a supply of cable.

Installing a new door

As, probably, many have noticed, windows and doors are installed in the first place during the repair of the premises. After installation, of course, even the dirtiest work will take place, so the door will need to be covered with something like polyethylene. If the door is pre-released with protective film, then it can be removed only after the repair is completed.

Facing works

To begin with, the walls and ceiling of the room are finished.

1. You need to start from the ceiling. It is advisable to level the ceiling with a special water-repellent plaster. You can also just paint the ceiling in a new color or make a ceiling made of wood, suspended, etc. - everything as planned according to a pre-prepared plan.
2. Then you need to do the wall and floor cladding. After removal old cladding you need to re-align the walls first with cement mixture and then treated with either plaster or alabaster. It is desirable to make the floor self-leveling, since it will be extremely expensive to level it using any other means. After that, you need to carefully sand the surfaces using a conventional sandpaper (0-2).
3. . The main rule when laying tiles is that you need to lay them 1 - 2 cm above the level of the rest of the floor in the room. This is necessary in case there is a sudden leak or breakthrough of water in a pipe or drain.

Installation and connection of plumbing

When installing plumbing, the most important thing is to mount everything exclusively horizontally. For this, the building level is used. Besides, modern materials allow you to do this with the help of adjusting bolts and elementary adjustable legs.

You should install a sink, bathtub, everything and taps, while you need to correctly connect everything back to the communications.

Additional installation

Lastly, mirrors, cabinets, various hooks and other little things are installed. In addition, we must not forget that to complete the work it is necessary to connect switches and lamps. All electrical appliances should be installed as a last resort due to the possibility of water, building material, etc. entering them.

From the above, we can boldly conclude that, following step by step instructions Renovating a bathroom can be quite rewarding. As a result, only the residents of the apartments will enjoy, but also the people who come to visit.

Before starting repairs, experts recommend looking at the options for finishing the bathroom on the Internet or specialized magazines. In accordance with the chosen project, they decide where to start repairing the bathroom with their own hands. In each specific case, its own repair algorithm is possible, but it is most reasonable to start with measurements of the dimensions of the space. The data obtained will allow you to accurately determine the amount of materials that will be required for the upcoming repair.

Preparatory work

Repairing a bathroom is very expensive, so many people want to save on building materials. In no case should you buy building mixtures, tiles or paint in the markets or “from hand”. Such a purchase will be of poor quality at best, and at worst, dangerous to health.

Advice. To reduce the cost of consumables, it is better to make all purchases in an online store, where the price is 8-10% lower than the average market price. Having learned the exact cost of the finishing materials chosen for the renovation of the bathroom, they begin to draw up an estimate. In case of unforeseen expenses, the estimated amount should be increased by 10%.

Experienced builders claim that a one-time purchase of all consumables will avoid delays in repairs caused by the lack of tiles or paint of the desired shade. Construction products are stored in a certain order, allowing you to easily access the materials used in the first place, such as plaster, drywall, timber, and so on.

Rough finishing of the room

The stage of rough finishing begins with the removal of old coatings from the floor, walls and ceilings. This can be done with a jackhammer or manually with a chisel. Naturally, the second method is more laborious, but the walls will receive less damage.

If work has not been carried out in the bathroom for a long time, then the screed will also have to be dismantled. In this case, a moisture-proof film is laid on the floor slabs, which protects the neighbors from below from possible leaks, and a new base floor is created. Filling for screed can be prepared from a mixture of sand, cement and water. This option for creating a floor is budgetary, but has a significant “minus” - it will take a whole month for the cement screed to completely harden. Such long delays in bathroom renovation can be avoided if modern self-leveling pastes are used when installing the floor screed. Their use will allow in a short time to obtain a flat floor surface, which will greatly simplify the laying of the floor covering.

Updates carried out in a residential area often concern the bathroom. In this regard, individual property owners need to know exactly where to start self-repair? In this case, the initial steps should be the same as when repairing a separate bathroom.

At the stage of rough finishing of the bathroom, the following is carried out:

• punching grooves in the walls to accommodate the electrical cable and water pipes;
• alignment of all surfaces of the room;
• installation of a warm floor (if it is produced);
• laying of water and sewer pipes;
• replacement of electrical wiring.

Walls and ceilings are aligned during the process plastering works, which are difficult to carry out qualitatively without the presence of certain skills. Perfect flat surfaces walls are obtained if they are sheathed with waterproof drywall. This material is attached to the crate, which is made of wooden beams or metal profiles. The joints of the sheets are sealed with sickle and putty.

“Advice:” Moisture-resistant drywall is best suited for bathrooms. Its leaves are green

"Warm floor" is used as additional system heating. There are two types of it - electric and water. In apartments, the heat carrier, most often, becomes an electric cable, and in cottages - hot water from the heating boiler. Installation of a warm floor is not complicated and, depending on its type, is carried out at the stage of pouring the screed or before laying the floor covering.

After the walls are leveled, they begin to replace the water pipes. Metal constructions that require welding are a thing of the past. They were replaced pvc pipes, which are either twisted together using fittings, or soldered with a construction iron. Any man can now handle this job.

"Forbidden:" When installing plastic pipes, excessive stress and kinks should not be allowed. This pipe won't last long.

With electrical wiring, everything is a little more complicated.

Forbidden. in the absence of the necessary knowledge of electrical engineering and experience as an electrician, independently change the electrical wiring in the house. Such amateur activity is fraught with fires and electric shock to people.

The laying of the electrical cable should be entrusted to employees of one of the many specialized companies, which will give a guarantee for the work performed.

Bathroom wall finishing

Initial knowledge of where to start the repair will not be enough for its successful completion. Each stage of repair work has its own characteristics and nuances.

Advice. Finishing work in the bathroom, they start from the ceiling, only if it is supposed to be painted. Otherwise, proceed to facing the walls of the bathroom.

In connection with the operation in an aggressive environment, special requirements are imposed on building and finishing materials for the bathroom. They must be moisture resistant and for long term services do not lose their aesthetic appearance.

The following are the main options for finishing the walls of the bathroom:

1. Finishing the bathroom walls with PVC panels. This is the most a budget option. Installation is very simple and does not require skills and time-consuming. Along one of the corners of the room, with the help of self-tapping screws, a special plastic corner is attached. A panel is inserted on one side of it, then the other one is butted with it, etc. The junction of the panels and the ceiling is sealed with a border, and with the floor - with a plinth;
2. Facing stone slabs are expensive and require a certain skill when decorating walls with them. It is not recommended to install them yourself. Even small violations of the technology made during their installation can cause serious defects in the wall cladding;
3. Tiles are ideal, and therefore, the most popular finishing material. Its installation can be handled without much difficulty.

Bathroom wall tiling

To work, the master will need the following set of tools and materials:

• tile cutter with a spare knife;
• drills "ballerinas";
• straight and notched spatulas;
• level;
• a sufficient number of plastic "crosses".

Advice. In the process of working with tiles, some of it may become unusable, so you will need to have a small excess of this material (about 1 sq. M.). When repairing a bathroom in Khrushchev, in connection with small size premises, this supply of tiles can be limited to 0.5 sq. m.

On the aligned walls of the bathroom, notches are made that are needed for their best adhesion to tile adhesive. Then, calculate the number of tiles that will fit in one horizontal and one vertical row. This is done in order to place incomplete tiles in inconspicuous places, for example, behind the bathroom. Tile adhesive must be of the desired consistency, medium in density.

Tiling starts from any lower corner of the room. Using an even spatula, glue is applied to a section of the wall. A second, similar tool is used to apply adhesive to the back of the tile. The adhesive mass is leveled, and the tile is firmly pressed against the wall. If the tile is not warped (it is best to check with a level), then spacers (crosses) are placed between it, the wall and the floor. Their presence will allow maintaining the same distance between separate elements tiled wall.

After the completion of the facing work, the seams between the tiles are treated with grout of a suitable color. It is applied with a roller, and its excess is immediately removed from the surface of the tile.

Flooring installation and ceiling decoration

Floor tiles are used as flooring in the bathroom. It is larger than wall tiles, but the installation process is the same as for wall tiles. Property owners also have the option to choose one of the options for decorating the ceiling:

• painting its surface with emulsion paint;
• false ceiling installation;
• installation of a stretch fabric.

In order for the paint to lay down in an even layer, and there were no stains on the surface of the ceiling, it is necessary to use an airbrush when applying it. Installing a false ceiling is also not particularly difficult. When it is installed, at a distance of 3 cm from the base ceiling, a frame is created. Elements of a suspended structure are embedded in its cells.

A stretch ceiling can become an original decoration of a bathroom. However, it will not be possible to carry out its installation on its own - this will require special equipment in the form of a heat gun or a building hair dryer.

To repair a bathroom in a new building, you should always use the services of professionals who can carry it out taking into account the upcoming shrinkage of the house.

This completes the renovation of the bathroom, and it remains only to install plumbing equipment.

Roman Wide

Reading time: 6 minutes

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Hello dear readers! Continuing the topic of repair, I will tell you how to start repairing the bathroom and toilet with your own hands. Surely many renovating these premises are faced with this issue.

If you are the owner of an apartment in which the bathroom is located separately from the toilet, I advise you to start do-it-yourself repairs at home by working out the same colors and style. Even if the rooms are separated, it is one whole. The design is chosen the same or similar in type of finishing materials used and color.

Toilet and bathroom are kind of twins. I advise you to tile the premises with tiles of the same type, but of a different shade. If you use the same finishing technique, you will get dissimilar rooms that will create a different mood. If the walls and floor are made in the same color, but with different finishing materials, discomfort will appear due to the contrast between the rooms.

Video tips

I think now you understand why it is better to use the same tiles and decor for finishing the bathroom and toilet. This approach will save you money. After finishing, trimmings will remain, which are likely to find a place in the second room.

How to start a bathroom renovation

A bathroom is a room in which a person is left alone with thoughts and emotions. Here he takes a shower, relaxes, rests after a hard day, gets rid of irritation and fatigue, gets a boost of energy.

The described effect will bring only a convenient and comfortable bathroom.

Bathroom renovation step by step

1. Measure the room . Take a piece of paper, a pencil, a tape measure and measure the length and height of the walls, the area of ​​the room. Based on the figures obtained, calculate the amount of materials that will be required to repair the bathroom.
2. Mentally imagine a new bathroom . Decide on the color and type of finishing materials, the location of the bath, furniture and accessories.
3. Prepare the room . Clean the walls and ceiling of the bathroom from the old finish. The work is dusty and dirty, so wear a respirator. You will need a puncher, spatula, metal brush and other tools.
4. Treat the walls with a primer . Lay the wiring and level the ceiling with putty. At this stage, mark the vertical and horizontal lines with a level or plumb line.
5. Plumbing replacement . A responsible step, I do not advise saving on it. We are talking about replacing the plumbing, risers and sewerage in the bathroom.
6. Floor waterproofing . Doing cement screed, water will not leak to the neighbors. Treat the joints between the walls and the floor, the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bathroom with a special waterproofing solution.
7. For wall and floor decoration . Try tiling your bathroom yourself. If there are no skills, ask a tiler for help. Some, for the sake of economy, do not veneer the place behind and under the bathroom. It is better to veneer the planes, and put the bath on the tile. The screen will help to hide the side and communications.
8. Door installation . If you are going to replace your bathroom door, do it before tiling.
9. Plinth and ceiling . At the end, install a decorative plinth along the perimeter of the ceiling, and paint the ceiling water-based paint. If this option for finishing the ceiling in the bathroom is not suitable, pay attention to stretch ceilings or plastic panel structures. It remains to seal the seams.

Video instructions

Following the instructions, you will reach the final stage. At the end, install the sink, hang a mirror and lamp, install furniture. In the end it will beautiful room.

Where to start repairing the toilet

People face difficulties when renovating the toilet room. The toilet is an important part of housing, which I advise you to repair thoroughly and correctly, taking into account all the little things. Where to start the painstaking process, I will tell below.

1. As with the bathroom, I advise you to start repairing the toilet with the preparation of the room. First of all, remove the old toilet bowl, remove old finishing materials from the walls, floor and ceiling.
2. Supply water and sewer to the installation site of the new toilet. If the sewerage system in the apartment is made of cast iron pipes, replace plastic products. If pipe replacement is not planned, limit yourself to a plastic supply. It is better to connect pipes using special inserts. Do not forget about the slope that is required for the normal functioning of the sewer.
3. Pay attention to communications. If they run along the wall, close them in a box. Be sure to make sure that the box is removed or disassembled. This makes it easier to troubleshoot problems caused by leakage.
4. Before starting plastering, set up beacons on the walls of the toilet. Using as a guide, line up the walls. After the plaster has dried, lay the tile.
5. Switch to floor. First, make a concrete screed, and after drying, lay the tile. Do not immediately install the toilet, it will interfere with work in the upper part of the room.
6. There are many options for finishing the walls of the toilet. What finishing material to choose is up to you, but I advise tiles. If such a lining is not to your liking, the market offers photo wallpapers, mosaic tiles, a natural stone or wood trim.
7. Take care of the ceiling. Plasterboard ceiling is suitable for the toilet room. It will hide the wiring and ventilation system. If you add a decorative plinth, you get beauty.
8. Lastly, install a lamp in the toilet, secure the toilet bowl and attach a paper holder to the wall. I advise you to immediately understaff the toilet with shelves for storing air freshener and stocks of toilet paper.

After going through a difficult path, in the end you will get a result that will delight you with freshness and originality. But more pleasure will bring the thought that the author of the masterpiece is yourself.

How to start repairs in a combined bathroom

The combined bathroom has advantages and disadvantages. The main disadvantage is that the room is available only to one household. Plus - the ability to expand the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bathroom. Easy to fit in shared bathroom washing machine or storage cabinet.

IN modern apartments the toilet is separate from the bathroom. At the same time, the premises are characterized small area and there are cases when a few centimeters are not enough to install furniture or another object. To fully consider the issue, consider how to combine a bathroom and a toilet.

How to combine bathroom and toilet

This type of repair, in addition to construction work, provides for "paperwork". According to the rules, redevelopment in the apartment is coordinated with the relevant authorities. At the same time, changes are made to the housing plan.

When creating a preliminary plan, mark the transfer of plumbing, change electrical wiring and plumbing systems. This is an incomplete list of factors that should not be ignored. Work on combining a bathroom is a small technical part of a huge job.

After approving the plan, switch to repairs. It is better if the household members go on a summer vacation for a while. As a result, they will protect themselves from discomfort, and no one will interfere with you.

• Demolish the partition between the bathroom and the toilet, level the walls, which are usually extremely crooked.
• Redo the pipes. If necessary, change their location so that they do not interfere. The same goes for the heated towel rail.
• The next step involves laying electrical wiring. Route cables, locate switches and outlets, and install.
• Prime the walls and level the floor with concrete screed. Before laying the floor covering, whether it is a tile or other finishing material, fill the floor with bitumen. This will reduce the likelihood of flooding neighbors during a leak.
• Stretch ceiling - a good option for a shared node. Just entrust their installation to professionals, as the arrangement of the ceiling involves the use of special equipment and skills.
• Finish the walls and lay flooring. To visually expand the space of the room, build in each wall big mirror. The combined bathroom will turn out beautiful and original.
• The final stage repair includes the installation of plumbing, furniture placement, connection household appliances, installation of bath accessories - hanging soap dishes, hooks.

If you want to achieve results, listen to the recommendations. They will help to speed up and successfully complete the repair. When the family returns home, the beauty of the combined bathroom will surprise.

The choice of furniture and the layout of the bathroom

I devote the final part of the article to the layout of the bathroom and the intricacies of choosing furniture. If you have finances, organize a separate bathroom in the house, especially if the family is large. As a result, several people will be able to relieve their needs at the same time. If you like a combined bathroom, make sure that it has sliding partition. With its help, divide the room into zones.

Room size. To make the toilet convenient and comfortable, allocate a few square meters for the arrangement. Excess space is not required. Design a bathroom according to tastes and preferences, but you should not overdo it with space - 6-10 squares are enough.

Furniture . Before buying furniture, decide what you want to see in the room. Usually this is a set of a sink, a mirror, a pencil case and a floor cabinet. Sometimes a hanging cabinet is provided. Before buying a bath set, make sure the quality. On the surface of the furniture, the paint should lie in an even layer.

Accessories. From accessories, choose models equipped with chrome-plated legs, handles and metal hinges. They also make accessories from plastic, covering with a layer of chromium. You should not buy such furniture, because chrome-plated or gold-plated plastic handles quickly lose their original appearance.

Sink . Be sure to inspect the sink for chips and damage. Check the integrity of the product by light tapping. Buy a sink that makes a pleasant ringing. A dull sound is a sign of defects.

Bedside tables and cabinets. When choosing bedside tables and lockers, be guided by the size of the room, the number of residents and tastes. If there is more than enough space, buy a large set that will fit hair dryer, curling iron, shampoos and other things. If there is a problem with the area, pay attention to a set of cabinets and several hanging drawers.